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Unlike Bali Authenticity and Glocalization in the Lombok Tourist-Landscape

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Unlike Bali Authenticity and Glocalization in the Lombok Tourist-Landscape Unlike Bali Authenticity and Glocalization in the Lombok Tourist-Landscape Bas van Gunst 14-8-2015 Supervisor: dhr. dr. G.A. Moerman Second reader: dhr. prof. dr. M.P.J. van de Port Index Acknowledgements .................................................................................................................... 4 1. Introduction: My Presence as Indication of Authenticity ...................................................... 5 2. Setting ..................................................................................................................................... 9 2.1 Fieldwork Information ................................................................................................... 11 2.2 Position in the Field ....................................................................................................... 14 3. Methods ................................................................................................................................ 17 3.1 Reflexivity on the Production of Culture ........................................................................ 17 3.2 Methodology ................................................................................................................... 19 4. Theoretical Framework ........................................................................................................ 23 4.1 Authenticity ..................................................................................................................... 23 4.2 The Front- and Back- Stage of the Lombok tourist-Landscape ..................................... 24 4.3 Forms of capital and the language of the elite actors .................................................... 25 4.4 The Construction of Authenticity (and Other Discourses) Through Language ............. 27 4.5 The Analysis of Existing Discourses Present in Language ............................................ 30 5. The Lonely Planet ................................................................................................................ 32 5.1 Representations of and Discourses About Lombok ........................................................ 33 5.2 Lombok’s time is now ..................................................................................................... 40 5.3 Summary ......................................................................................................................... 42 6. Tourists: Relational Authenticity ......................................................................................... 43 6.1 Holiday Goers and Exploring Travelers ........................................................................ 43 6.2 Bali versus Lombok ........................................................................................................ 44 6.3 The Condition of Infrastructure as Symbol of Development .......................................... 50 6.4 Lombok is Located in the Past ....................................................................................... 52 6.4 Development of Tourism: Investing in Lombok ............................................................. 55 6.5 Summary ......................................................................................................................... 57 7. State and Cultural Elites ....................................................................................................... 58 2 7.1 The Indonesian State: Multicultural Domination .......................................................... 59 7.2 Top-down Traditionality ................................................................................................ 61 7.3 Sade: a Sasak Traditional Village? ................................................................................ 64 7.4 Staging Adat [traditions]and Authenticity ..................................................................... 67 7.5 The Local Government: Progression and Development ............................................... 70 7.6 Summary ......................................................................................................................... 75 8. Local Actors: Combining Tradition and Modernity ............................................................ 76 8.1 Kampung Resort: The birth of tourism in Orong Gerisak ............................................. 80 8.2 Transforming Tradition into Marketable Culture .......................................................... 85 8.3 Sameness and Friendliness: The Limits to Commercialization ..................................... 89 8.4 Growing up ..................................................................................................................... 92 8.5 Glocalization: Thinking Global but Acting Local .......................................................... 95 8.5.1 Ale-Ale: Modern Traditions .................................................................................... 99 8.5.2 Resorts: Global or local space? ............................................................................ 103 8.6 Being One Thing While Seeming Another .................................................................... 105 8.7 Summary ....................................................................................................................... 110 9. Conclusion: Unlike Bali? ................................................................................................... 110 Bibliography ........................................................................................................................... 114 3 Acknowledgements I want to thank my lecturers of the Research Master Social Sciences at the University of Amsterdam for their commitment to my, and any students’, work. Without you I wouldn’t have been able to do this research the way I did. A special thanks goes out the Gadjah Mada University of Yogyakarta for sponsoring my cultural visa to Indonesia. Above all I want to thank my thesis supervisor, dr. Gerben Moerman, for his help in developing my qualities as a researcher, his patience, his kind words, his words of encouragements, and above all for the time he invested in me. Further I would like to thank my girlfriend, Juliëtte Cassé, for her support throughout the past four years and for her patience in listing to all my ramblings about fieldwork and writing. Thank you so much Juul. Further I would like to thank my parents for their role in making me the person I am today, their help and backing in any way possible in making my goals come through. My friends -Stijn, Olf, Sjoerd, Julius, Paul, and Wietse- for keeping believing in me, pushing me to do better, and being there for me in rough times. But above all I want to thank the new friends I made on Lombok, the people that took me in and included me in their community. The people that showed me around the island and accompanied me to so many interviews and fieldtrips. For the people that made me feel at home and cared for me. For Ronny, Adi, Bram, and Hir and their families for always having an extra plate at dinner and for the painful ear they gave me while playing dominos. ‘ Thank you all: without any of you this thesis would not have been written. 4 1. Introduction: My Presence as Indication of Authenticity Sitting at the small warung in the kampung where I spend most of my days talking with whomever walked in I asked the couple that just sat down for a mango smoothie a simple question: “What do you guys think about the village and Lombok?” Yet the answer was one I never would have expected. “It’s beautiful here, last year we went to Bali and we were looking for something less hectic. There are no tourists here, not like Bali in any case and the place is still, like, pure. … I don’t know, it like the chickens still walk around on the road and no major intervention by companies wanting to destroy nature.(Transcribed from field notes)” So far no surprises. It was the day before new year’s eve and I had been writing down similar expressions of this discourse in my notebook for over four months now. But what was said next came as a shock to me. I had spent a total of five months in Indonesia and the thought hadn’t even occurred to me yet. “When mister Adi told us about a researcher staying in the village where the waterfall is I was like; ‘ooh they even have a real anthropologist here, how exiting!’ It’s so exotic, like, you guys [anthropologists] go to these tribes in difficult to reach places and we end up in one of those places! It’s like Andy said, it feels just pure! (Transcribed from field notes)” I was perplexed. I went to Lombok to do fieldwork on the ways in which the construction of authenticity in interaction between the local population and tourists takes place. For over a year already I was reading about authenticity, the Other, orientalism, and tourism – on the basis of these readings I was under the assumption that authenticity is constructed through symbols. Yet this idea had never arisen in my thought: I, myself as a cultural anthropologist, am a symbol of authenticity for those tourists visiting the kampung of Orong Gerisak. For these tourists, as for most I spoke to, going up a shady path at the end of the road, without big resorts giving you shade to walk in but simple palm trees to fulfill this function, and devoid of any other tourists, gives a certain sense of adventure; a feeling that you are 5 setting foot in a place that is yours to discover. Walking up to that kampung five kilometers from the end of the asphalt road
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