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20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST oc tober /nov ember 2014 MORE COWBELL! Perfect , amazing , and stop-you-in-your-tracks scenery. The Swiss think of everything.

Story and photos by Tom Robertson

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 21 ’ve spent a fair amount of time the first long-distance route in around cowbells. For over 20 Switzerland. He ushered us to a local years, I’ve raced and photo- and, after checking in, the three graphed endurance events, of us hopped on electric-assisted bikes and it seems that there’s to go meet his wife, Prisca, for dinner. always at least one spectator The bike paths wound past green fields with a cowbell. After the now-famous and prototypical Swiss barns before de- ISaturday Night Live skit with Will livering us to a small family Ferrell, everyone loves to yell “More close to the German border. cowbell!” at anyone holding one. Well, Over a succession of six courses, all if you really want more cowbell, just locally grown and each more delicious go to Switzerland and ride in the Alps. than the last, Ruedi talked about what With so many bovine beauties roaming Swiss Trails provides. “We have to the mountain pastures, their brassy offer the absolute best service we can,” bells provide the perfect soundtrack he explained. France and Italy offer for an unforgettable traverse. similar terrain and riding but for less I remember when I first heard money than Switzerland. So his out- about the Alpine Bike Route No. 1, a fit differentiates itself by providing a mountain bike passageway through seamless, traveler-friendly experience. the Swiss Alps. My friend and former You choose your distance and they colleague at Adventure Cycling, Aaron book your lodging and transfer your Teasdale, had been there in 2010 and luggage between overnight locations. spoke of grand landscapes and adven- tor Swiss Trails. Because Aaron’s And, although their legwork — and turous riding. Aaron likened it to the only covered one-third of the 665-kilo- fleet of rental bikes — means you can Great Divide Mountain Bike Route in meter route, I figured I had better go just show up with your clothing and an article he wrote for Adventure Cyclist explore some of the parts he missed. helmet, Ruedi was clear that there is (August/September 2011). He described After landing in Zurich on a brilliant one other big necessity for riding the challenging terrain, huge climbs, and August afternoon, my traveling partner Alpine Route No. 1: you have to be in incredible scenery. But, unlike the Kristine and I were picked up by Ruedi good shape. “Those climbs are no joke!” Great Divide Route, the Alpine version Jaesli, the owner of Swiss Trails and he emphasized. is serviced by the top-notch tour opera- the person responsible for setting up Having done a handful of road bike tours in Europe in the past, I know how fantastic it can be to on two wheels in places with a good in- frastructure. Mountain bike touring just seemed to be logistically complicated, especially in another country. The idea of stringing together unfamiliar trails and dirt roads into a cohesive route was daunting. In that regard, Swiss Trails was a godsend. Between the detailed and support they provided and the fact that the bike routes were signed, I could rest assured that we wouldn’t get lost. We would just pedal along without a care, serene as those grazing mountain cows. Our first day on the bike started with a two-hour shuttle to the chic town of St. Moritz, where our ride was to begin. Growing up as a skier, I’d heard the name St. Moritz before I could walk and had long determined to get myself there. Billing itself as the oldest ski station in the world, with plenty of snow and more than 300 days of sunshine a year, it seemed Singletrack winds through the most picturesque mountain pass of our trip. like the perfect place to live. We were

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST oc tober /nov ember 2014 dropped off at the train station, and as we gathered our gear together I asked the driver which direction we should ride. I figured that because everything was signed, as long as we were pointed in the right direction, we’d be golden. And golden is a good term to associate with St. Moritz, especially on a sunny summer day. Crowds of people were out and riding bikes, there was some sort of regatta-type event on the town’s glimmering eponymous lake, and not one, but two, yellow Lamborghinis rolled by us in the first 20 minutes. It’s a glitzy kind of place. Riding out of St. Moritz, we started and kept on climbing. The scenery was surreal. Enormous peaks stood sentinel over sparkling lakes while wildflower-blanketed meadows were bisected by clear, clean mountain streams. On the other side of the valley, another set of towering mountains rose from the horizon. The climbs in these Tom and Kristine made a lot of new bovine friends along Alpine Route #1. mountains really are no joke. Straight up, straight down. mountain water was safe to drink. saw a sign for the . We turned off While the persistent grade of the “Above the cows,” he said. “As long as the short paved stretch we’d been trav- climbs is an obvious challenge, one of you’re riding above the cows, the water eling and saw a skinny singletrack trail. the bigger challenges for me while bike is safe.” And, since the cows all have “That can’t be it,” I said. “It’s too nar- touring in Europe has usually been food bells, I figured they should be hard to row.” Though it looked like great fun, it and water — as in, where can I get good miss. As it turned out, regardless of our seemed more like a trail. Beside food that keeps me going? An addition- position relative to the cows, we could the junction sat a sort of bombed-out al layer of complication with mountain keep ourselves hydrated, thanks to a church, so we searched all around the bike touring is water accessibility. On series of spigots and troughs. The Swiss structure for another trail. Nothing. As this trip, we hadn’t packed a filtration think of everything! we sat there wondering which way to system. So before we parted ways with Toward the end of the day, we came go, I was trying to figure out which war Ruedi the night before, I asked if the to an intersection along the route and was responsible for this church’s bomb- ing. “Wait a minute,” I thought. “We’re in Switzerland. They don’t go to war!” As I was contemplating how there GERMANY could be a bombed-out church in Switzerland, I decided that this must not be the trail and that we should keep Basel Winterthur St. Gallen descending. Off we went, continuing Zürich down the paved road for miles until I AUSTRIA started to get the feeling, again, that FRANCE we were wrong. So, while we weren’t Luzern Bern (Lucerne) technically lost, we kind of were. It was SWITZERLAND only Day One on our signed bike route, Thun and we didn’t know where we were. On the plus side, our dilemma allowed us to Lausanne St. Moritz test out another service of Swiss Trails. They have a “help line” — a phone number you can call if a problem arises, Genéve (Geneva) 0 40 mi and they help you figure out a solution Lugano 0 40 km to whatever mess you’ve gotten your- self into. ITALY

GLEN PAWELSKI GLEN After a few phone calls and some

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 amateur , we determined that our current route was taking us toward Italy (a worthwhile destination, but one for another trip). It was getting late in the day and we had descended some distance. It would be a push for us to get to our hotel by nightfall. After communicating our concern to the Swiss Trails office on one of our phone calls, they called that night’s lodging and arranged for the hotel staff to come pick us up. Now that’s service! They did mention, though, that during our bike rides we should probably have been carrying the maps they had given us. Fair point. Even though the route NUTS & BOLTS Switzerland was signed, that really would have come in handy. WHEN TO GO is taken care of. Before you nights and transportation. July through October is the get to Switzerland, they work There are also tour guides In truth, it’s often those misadven- sweet spot. Starting at the with you to set up your route available for hire. Swiss tures that come from, say, taking the end of August, the weather determined by the number trails also has a variety of wrong trail, that end up being the most can start turning, with cool of days you want to travel. other routes, including nine memorable parts of a bicycle tour. nights and a higher chance From there, they organize cycling routes for the road, Thanks to our faulty , we of precipitation. your itinerary, book your along with hiking, canoe, now had a captive with us overnights (they offer six and skating route options. in the form of Giancarlo Torriani, the ROUTE levels of accommodations, third-generation owner of the Hotel The Alpine Route 1 passes from to high-end BIKE RENTALS AND GEAR Solaria in the town of Bivio, who arrived through some of the most ) and have a packet for Swiss Trails has a reasonably to fetch us himself. We couldn’t have spectacular alpine terrain you with maps, a guidebook, wide range of full-suspen- hand-picked a more interesting escort. in the world. The route in its and lodging certificates. sion mountain bikes for rent. entirety covers 413 miles When you land at the airport We brought our own On top of being a hotel proprietor and from east to west using a they will have someone and saddles, as well as a professionally trained chef, Mr. Torri- combination of single- and waiting for you to few tools, including a small ani was a three-time winter Olympian, dirt-tracks, with the occasion- you to your first night’s hotel. pump and chain lube. They coach for the Swiss bobsled team, and al foray onto a tarmac road to The next morning they pick provide a saddle bag with a part of the Swiss Search and Rescue connect the dirt sections. The you up and transport you to tube and basic tools as well, team for wayward skiers and mountain entire route is signed, though the beginning of your ride. though it never hurts to have climbers in the Alps. It was a bit of a there are junctions with mul- Each morning you leave your an extra tube or two of your drive to get to Bivio, and as we climbed tiple trail signs, so it’s good luggage at your hotel when own. We rode with Camelbak over passes and traveled the serpentine to have maps (provided by you head out for the day’s hydration packs, and always mountain roads, he regaled us with Swiss Trails) with you to help ride, and at the end of the day packed a rain jacket, plenty stories of his days as a bobsled pilot navigate the more complicat- when you arrive at your hotel, of food and snacks, our map ed sections. There are some your bags will be waiting for and guidebook, and a camera. and talked about what a backcountry rather technical sections, so you. At the conclusion of your There is generally water all mecca the area was. He might either good trip, they will transport you along the route, from shops not have been impressed with our skills or an adventurous spirit back to the airport for your to the water spigots in the orienteering skills, but he did like that are recommended. And don’t flight home. If there are ever middle of every village. Also, we were riding across a hearty stretch forget to train, the climbing in any hitches in your trip, they at various mountain passes of his country on bikes. He also assured the Alps can be never-ending. provide an emergency phone there are farmhouses along us that the roads were safer after the However, the effort is worth number to call. the way that are open in the recent weekend: “The Italians it, as this is one of the world’s summer to serve food and have all gone home!” most spectacular cycling Á LA CARTE OPTION beverages to passing hikers Although we were only 20 kilometers routes. While Swiss Trails can take and cyclists. from St. Moritz, Bivio has a completely care of your whole trip, SWISS TRAILS they also offer each of their RESOURCES different feel than the posh . Booking your trip through services on their own. You • Swiss Trails, swisstrails.ch In Roman times, it served as a wel- Swiss Trails takes all of can book your own lodging • Switzerland , come stopover for traders traveling the guess work out of the and have them transport myswitzerland.com/en- between Milan and Munich. Today, the logistics of your travel. your luggage. Or you can us/interests/cycling.html small town of 200 plays host to out- Swiss Trails is truly a Swiss carry your gear and have • Switzerland Mobility, door enthusiasts traveling to the Alps company in that every detail them take care of the over- switzerlandmobility.ch for recreation — cycling, hiking, and

24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST oc tober /nov ember 2014 fishing in the summer, and, of , houses and steepled churches linked by quarters, and two bathrooms for all 12 skiing in the winter. When we arrived at single- and doubletrack trails through rooms to share. At mealtime, guests are the Hotel Solaria, Mr. Torriani set us up people’s yards; angry ducks charging seated at the same time and given the with a room before we eagerly headed us alongside roaring rivers; and a dark same repast, although each table might to dinner. He gave us his recommenda- tunnel cut into a hillside with lights be abuzz with a different language. It tions on what to order, and as we waited that magically turned on as we pedaled was easy to imagine that we were all for our meals, we enjoyed watching through it — all with an off-and-on rain- travelers in another time. That is, until him move from table to table greeting fall that we barely even noticed. I pulled out an iPhone and realized guests. He seemed to know almost The folks they had wifi. The Swiss everyone and switched languages with that did notice really do have the best ease. We had just arrived in Bivio, and we were drip- of both worlds. already I thought I’d rather live there ping wet were We were at than in St. Moritz. the hotel staff. Turrahus on one Leaving Bivio was a challenge. I was After arriving of those stunningly really falling for the town and wanted and getting gorgeous Swiss after- to stay and explore its inviting network our room keys, noons with blue skies, of narrow cobblestone streets. Plus we were led green hills, and just the it looked like rain. This happens to downstairs to slightest of breezes. me almost every time I go to Europe; the bike room Relaxing at one of the somehow I dissociate the perennially to store our outside tables, Kristine green landscape from the rainfall that bikes. Along and I couldn’t take our keeps it looking so lush. with secure eyes off the surround- But leave we did, and after a few storage, the ing peaks as we drank hours on the road, the drizzle turned room also had coffee and indulged in into a driving rain. Fortunately, we were a bike stand pre-dinner pastries. The passing through a small town when and a few Alps seem to have the the rain picked up, and I insisted that tools for basic repairs. Back upstairs the perfect blend of hardness and softness. we stop for coffee until the weather re- staff insisted that after we showered we Jagged rocky peaks combine with inter- lented. In the 25 years I’ve been doing should bring our wet clothes down so mittent green fields to line the glacially bicycle touring adventures, my style has they could wash them for us. Again, we carved valleys. If we squinted, we could changed noticeably: I am riding shorter were most grateful for the kindness and see the cows grazing the uppermost distances and the frequency of my superior service extended to us. grassy expanses. snack breaks has risen. Really, the rain As with most tours in Europe, we It’s customary in most European provided an excuse for a welcome stop. were always coming across ancient alpine villages for cows to be led up into After an hour and $60 worth of coffee things. But in the Alps, it’s a different the high country during the summer for the two of us, it was time to get roll- kind of history. The rural, high alpine to forage. In Switzerland they make it ing despite the precipitation. With all nature of the region kept this area iso- a celebration. The springtime ascent to of that caffeine coursing through us, we lated and preserved from outside influ- the high mountain pastures is known as set out for our destination with some ence for centuries. Walking into a place Alpfahrt, and it’s marked by picturesque extra life in our legs. like the Turrahus Mountain in the festivals with herders and their families Rain or not, we were still pedaling village of Safien Platz felt like stepping wearing traditional costumes. Bringing through postcards. There were small back in time. The 300-year-old house the herds back down to the lower-eleva- Swiss villages with quaint whitewashed has low ceilings, creaky floors, tight tion valleys in the fall, a custom known

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 as Alpabfahrten, also prompts festivals. the trip, trying hard to come up with turned to singletrack and we pushed The cow that was the season’s greatest other days that might not involve the on, finally stopping next to a section of milk producer is festooned with flower elements. While I’ve certainly had great the stream where water rife with glacial garlands and the largest, choicest days on various tours, none are seared sediment had carved and polished a cowbell. Sitting there at the inn with into my memory in the same way that path through the angular boulders. We our snacks, we vowed to stop and visit this one is. had been climbing for hours to get to with some cows as we rode past them The day started off with the usual big this spot, and our bodies were worn the next day. And, looking at the direc- ascent after an initial small drop from down from a week of alpine riding. tion in which the map said we would our hotel. The climbing was relentless. But, in an instant, as we dismounted and took in our surroundings, we were re-energized by the grandiosity of the landscape. A 360-degree view yielded WHILE I’VE CERTAINLY HAD GREAT DAYS ON towering peaks all around us. VARIOUS TOURS, NONE ARE SEARED INTO MY Too quickly, thunder rumbled in MEMORY IN THE SAME WAY THAT THIS ONE IS. the distance. We were prompted to stop marveling and climb back on the bikes for the final push up to the top of the pass. Looking down the other go, we’d likely run into many of them. Two hours later, we could look back side, a smooth stretch of singletrack Although from our vantage point down and still see our hotel. We climbed on unfolded, wrapping around a high-al- below, it looked like the valley just came singletrack, doubletrack, singletrack pine lake with more monstrous peaks to an end, there’s an old road from through a golf course, pavement, and in the background. With the thunder Roman times that travels up and over yet more singletrack. The ride kept go- growing louder, we started ripping the pass. Indeed, the next day there ing on and on as sweat poured off us. down the trail. In our guidebook from were cows aplenty with their melodic After a few hours, we turned off a Swiss Trails, today’s ride was rated bells just waiting for us to say hello. main road and started heading straight “Most Difficult” in terms of fitness Having ridden thousands of miles toward the enormous mountains. Every and skills. As we delighted in the while touring over the last few decades, now and again, we’d break to visit with thrill of having gravity on our side, I I can think of a handful of standout some cows and to glance at the map wondered when the “skill” part would days. Almost all of them involve wind — that we had faithfully started carrying come into play. specifically, a brutal headwind. Riding after the first day. As we got closer to Then the track went over a ridge across central Wyoming, riding along the top, an expansive valley opened and we saw the rocks — lots of rocks. the Hi-Line in Montana, and a couple up before us and we got much quieter. The trail, descending forever down of days in West Texas stick in my mind. It was absolutely stunning. The wide- the mountainside, was embedded with There are a few memorable tailwind open valley floor was carpeted in green rocks and pitted with gullies for most days in there as well, when it felt as and gold, and down the middle of its length. We started heading down, though I was flying through western was an aquamarine blue stream fed by Kristine trying to ride everything and Arizona and later along the Columbia the Maighels Glacier high in the hills me wondering if this is why people River Gorge in Oregon. Our last day of ahead of us. buy for overseas trips. riding in Switzerland is in that group of Climbing on in reverential silence, Eventually I started walking more standout days and is the only one that we passed the Maighels Hut on the and more sections. After all, I had this doesn’t involve wind. I’ve asked myself left, a fine overnight lodging option for why almost weekly since the end of hikers and travelers. The doubletrack CONTINUED ON PAGE 50

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26 ADVENTUREinzerat_Top_bicycle.indd CYCLIST 1 oc tober /nov ember 2014 15.2.2008 16:51:31 CONTINUED FROM PAGE 26 shuttle back to Zurich the next day, we MORE COWBELL! relived our weeklong tour over a leisure- ly breakfast. Most bike tours that last a week feel a lot longer, but this one felt expensive camera gear in my pack —or especially long. Each day was its own ad- at least that’s the justification I gave venture but the previous day’s ride still myself. At one point, I came around a had us buzzing. If you do enough bicycle curve and there was Kristine — on her tours you will experience good ones and back on the downhill side of the track, not-so-good ones. Every once in a while, not moving. Damn. “Are you okay?” I though, everything lines up perfectly asked nervously. “Yep, just catching my with just the right balance of challenge, breath,” she said with a sideways grin as comfort, and the wow factor. We were she climbed up and dusted the gravel grateful that this was one of those trips off her knees. — with an extra helping of wow. Eventually we both started walking I’ve never purchased a memento more sections. Kristine was a little the day’s ride. Underneath us in the before from a tour, but it seemed appro- frustrated that we had to walk, but I town of Andermatt, there were groups priate this time given that our trip was didn’t think it was so bad. Plus, I really of cyclists riding in the streets, folks off the charts. At the Zurich airport, in didn’t want to have to call Search and starting to gather in , and a the kind of shop I usually avoid Rescue if one of us was injured. I could horse-drawn carriage making its way up at all costs, my new prize let out a brassy just imagine the helicopter landing and the street. It was another typical Swiss reverberation when I set it down on the Giancarlo Torriani, the hotel proprietor mountain town scene. It felt like a mov- counter. Yes, please. More cowbell. from Bivio, stepping out and having to ie set — one where a third of the extras rescue us again! Hey, at least we could were cyclists. After being charmed first Tom Robertson is a freelance photographer and tell him that we didn’t get lost. by St. Moritz and then Bivio, Andermatt a cycling and adventure enthusiast based in Missoula, Montana. He was a cartographer at That evening, as we kicked up our stole my heart and I decided that surely Adventure Cycling for 14 years. For more visit feet on the balcony of our hotel room, this is where I wanted to live. tomrobertsonphoto.com. we were still glowing and giddy from As we waited for our Swiss Trails

50 ADVENTURE CYCLIST oc tober /nov ember 2014