INDEX

Volume XXII, No. 1, Issue 53, 1979

Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quota- tion marks indicate unofficial names. The geographical location of all ranges is indicated and all geographic entries are cross-indexed. All expedition members cited in major articles are included, whereas only the leaders and/or persons supplying information in the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed. Abbreviations used, in addition to those of the States and Prov- inces, are: Aiguille = Aig. Nevado = Nev Article = art. Obituary = obit. Cordillera = C. Peak = Pk Mount(ains) = Mt(s) Range = Rg Mountain = Mtn Sierra Nevada = S.N. Index compiled by Margot McKee

A Alan Campbell, Mt (Can Rockies), 209-10 Abanico, Pica (S.N. de M&da), Alaska, art. 70-89, art., 92-7, art., 225-6 99-117, 11682 Abasraju (C. Blanca), 232-4, 237-8 Alaska Rg (Alaska), art., 70-89, Abermann, Thomas, 146 92-104 Acamani (C. Apolobamba) , 247-8 Alberti, France de Facchinetti, 145 Acamani Sur (C. Apolobamba), 247 Aleta de Tiburon (“Shark’s Fin) Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), (Patagonia), 256 152-9, 266-7 Alfred Wegener peninsula Adams, Mt (Cascade Mts), 182-3 (Greenland), 141, 144, 147, Afghanistan, 314-5 149,151 Agnew, C. H., 132 Ali Ratni Tibba (Himachal Pradesh), Agpatut (Alfred Wegener Peninsula), 291 151 Allan, Alastair, 135, 141 Agssuassat (Evighedsfjord), 223 Allen, R., 134 Agung (), 316 Allenbach, Robert, 264 Aguja Nevada I (C. Blanca), 237 Allianaituq (Kingnait Fiord), 216 Aguja Yacuma (C. Real), 249 Allianaituq Pk (Cumberland Aig. Extra (S. N., Calif.), 190 Peninsula), 215 Aig. Rose (Evighedsfjord), 224 Almazov, Tanya, 62-9 Akilpo Sur (C. Blanca), 238-9 Almazov, Valera, 62-9 Akuliarusek peninsula (Greenland), (C. Blanca), 230,238 130, 132-3, 145, 147-8, 158 Alpefjord (Greenland), 139 361 Altheimer, Hans, 145 Asgard (Baffin Island), 214, 218 ALTITUDE ILLNESS. 153-9 Ashton, Marie, 46-58 Alto Ritacuba (C. Oriental), 226 Asia, 258-3 16 Ama Dablam (), 269 Atter, Mt (Sukkertoppen district), Amemiya, Takashi, 277 136 Ament, Pat, his book, The Master of Aujassaq (Evighedsfjord), 224 Rock: The Biography of John Gill, Ausangate (C. Vilcanota), 246 326-7 Auyuittuq National Park (Bathn American Alpine Club: Proceedings, Island), 211 355-8 Anocohuma (C. Real), 249,252 B Anderson, Craig, 1-18 Anderson, Donald N., 174 Babauchi, Ryuichi, 301 Anderson, Douglas, 256-7 Barbier, Andrew, 142 Anderson, R. A. L., 148 Baffin Island (Canadian Arctic), Andrews, Guy, 59-61 210-16 Amaruq (Kingnait Fiord), 217 Baibara, Viktor, 62-9 Ang Dorge (Sherpa), 264 Baintha Brakk use The Ogre Angolotti, Giuseppe, 239 Bakhor Das (Karakoram), 304 Angier, Marceau, 152 Banks, Mike, his book, Mbunfuin Angmagsalik district (Greenland), Climbing for Beginners, 337-8 132-4, 136, 140, 144-6, 150-1, 221 Bard, Alan, 105-17 Ang Pemba, 46-58 Barnaj Valley (India), 292 I (Annapurna Himal), Barrard, Maurice, 150 art., 45-58, 274 Barrera V., Humberto, 254, 256 Annapurna II (Annapuma Himal), Bartlett, Alan, 186-7 274 Barton, Robert D., 286 Annapuma III (Annapuma Himal), “Bastion” (Kichatna Mts) , 169 art., 59-61 Bates, Robert H., 324-5 Annapurna IV (Annapurna Himal), Batura II (), 306 274 Baxton (Sawtooth Rg), 196 Annapurna Himal (Nepal), art., Baume, Louis, his book, Sivuluyu, 46-61, 273 323-4 Annapuma South (Annapurna Bear Creek Spire (S. N., Calif), H&al), 274-5 - 189-90 Another Ascent of the World’s Beth, Cherie, 1-18 Highest Peuk~omolungmu, Beth, Terry, l-18 review, 3 18-20 Becker, Mt (Merrick Mts), 225 Antarctica, 225 Beckey, Fred, 335.6 Anthoine, J. V. (MO), 300-l Bednarek, Henryk, 3 13 Anthoine, K. Jacky, 304 Beg, Honar, 1-18 Api (Nepal), 278-80 Beguin, Pierre, 228-9 Apostelens Tommelfinger Beraamaschi. Arturo. 150, 251 (Greenland), 150, 152,219-20 Berger, Mt (‘Merrick’Mts), 225 Aranda Llatas, Jose, 138 Bernstein; Jeremy, his book, Mountain Araral Cerro (C. Real), 253-4 Passages, 329-3 1 Argentina, 255-7 Berscerker Spire (Staunings Alps), Arhueikaka (C. Blanca). 236 139 Arjuna (Kisdtwar region), 293-4 Betancourt, Jo&, 226 Arjuno (Indonesia), 3 16 Bharte Khunte (Garhwal), 288 Arrigetch (Alaska), 176-8 Biafo Karakoram (Pakistan), art., (C. Blanca), 230,236 24-8, 302-3 Arvik (Kingnait Fiord), 215-6 BIBLIOGRAPHY (Greenland), 152 ASCENTS in Greenland 1%7-76, Bidauretta, Daniel, 146 art., 125-5 1 “B~2~c8nido” (S. N. de Santa Marta), Ascotan, Cerro (C. Real), 254 362 Big Horn Mts (Wyo), 200-l Campa I (C. Vilcanota), 246 Biosco, Jose Ma, 138 Canada, 122-4, 202-19 Black Canyon of the Gunnison Canadian Arctic (210-19) (Cola), 201 Canadian Rockies (Alta./B.C.), art., Blackburn, Mt (Wrangell Mts), 175, 122-4, 208-9 176 Caneva, Giuseppe, 255-6 Black Pk (Cascade Mts), 183 Canoma (C. Apolobamba), 248 Black, David, 173 Caraffini, Dante, 129-30 Blanch, Conrad, 253 Carstenz (Irian Jaya), 315-6 Blueberry Hill (Darrington area), 182 Carter, H. Adams, 324 Blum, Arlene, 46-58 Cascade Mts (Wash.), 182-5 Boardman, Peter, 20-3, 315 Castle Dome (S. N., Calif), 185 Bocarde, Gary Cathedral Spires (Kichatna Mts) , Bolivar (S. N. de Santa Marta), 227 169-74 Bolivia, 246-54 Cazzaniga, Giuseppe, 142 Bona, Mt (St. Elias Mts), 176 Cearoco (C. Real), 252 Bonington, Christian, art., 19-3 “Cemetery Spire” (Kichatna Mts), Borgonovo, Emilio, 244 169 Borgtinde (Watkins Mts), 141 CEREBRAL EDEMA (CE), 152-9 Bossus, Pierre, 133 Cerro Heim group (Patagonia), 255 Bowman Pk (Bowman Island), 219 Cerro Torre (Patagonia), 256 Boyer, Mt (Merrick Mts), 225 Chacraraju (C. Blanca), 229-30, Brady, James A., 36-45 236-7 Braithwaite, Paul, 20-3 Chacraraju Este (C. Blanca), 230-34 Brammah I (Kishtwar region), 292-3 Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, Alison, Brandli, Walter, 144 46-58, obit., 347-8 Branscomb, Bob, 188 Chandler, Chris, 1-18 Branski, Wojciech, 36-45 Changabang (Hindue Kush), art., Brewer, Steve, 230 31-5 British Columbia, 206-8 Charwick, J., 129 Bmiak, Marek, art., 36-45, 289-90 Chassagne, Jean-Paul, 252-3 Broad Pk (Karakoram), 298 Chearoco (C. Real), 25 1 Broad Pk (Sam Ford Fiord), 210-l Cheema, Prithipal Singh, 296 Brooks Rg (Alaska), 176 Chelton, Dudley and Bob Godfrey, Brooks, Raymond, 196 their book, Climb! Rock Climbing Brosig, Georg, 298-300 in Colorado, 332-5 Bruce, Larry, 208-9 Cheney, Michael J., 270, 272-4, 276, Brujo group (Chile), 254 280 Buckner, Mt (Cascade Mts), 184 Chewang Rinzing, 46-58 Bugaboos (Purcells), 208 Chida Shan (Indonesia), 3 16 Buhler, Carlos, 62-9 Chile, 254-7 Buenavista I, JI (C. Real), 253 Chimborazo (Ecuador), 228 Burgundy Spire (Cascade Mts), 183 Chiquito Dome (S. N., Calif), 194 Burton, Hraold B., 354 Chiring Valley (India), 292 Busby, Joan, 132 Chocfiacota (CAI) (C. Apolobamba), Bustle Tower (Logan Mts), 206 247 Butson, A. Richard C., M.D., 313 Choktoi J (Pakistan), 302 Bychkov, Anatoly, 62-9 Chopicalqui (C. Blanca), 234-6 Byung-Koo, Chun, 274-6 Choriraju (C. Blanca), 239 Chrobak, Eugeniusz, 36-45 C Chulu West (Annapurna Himal), 273 Chunik (Pakistan), 306 C. = Cordillera Church, Earlyn, 353 Caballo (C. Blanca), 238 Citadel (Kichatna Mts), 171 CA1 (Chociiacota), 247 Clarke, Michael D., 280-l California, 185-95 Cleare, John, 270-l

363 Clemenson, Jean, 269 Devachan (Himachal Pradesh), 291 Clyde Spires (S. N., Calif), 188 Devistan I, II (Garhwal), 284-6 Coast Rg (B. C.) 206-8 Dewe. Mt (Haubera Mts). 225 Cobbler’s Bench (Wheeler Crest), 187 Dharamsura (White Sail) ‘(Himachal Cochran, George Van B., 219 Pradesh), 291 “Coddazzi, Pica” (S. N. de Santa (Nepal), 276-7 Marta), 288 Dhaulagiri I (Nepal), 278 Coffee, Dennis, 59-61 Dhaulagiri II (Nepal), 278 Colombia, 226-39 Dockerv. James. 199-200 Colon (S.N. de Santa Marta), 227 Dog Tooth Pk (Courtright Colorado, 201-2 Reservoir), 193-4 Condorini (C. Apolobamba), 247-8 Donaldson, Greg, 190-3 Condoriri (C. Real), 252 Donini. James. 24-8 Connor, Edward H., art., 59-61 Donohb, Robert, 203 Consolation Pk (Pangnirtung Pass Dorado, Cerro (Picarte group), 254 area), 217 Los DOS Gemelos (Brujo group), 254 Constantino, Duane, 182 Doty, Steve, 184 Consumnes Gorge (S. N., Calif), 188 Dousharin, Ivan, 62-9 Corbellini, Tullio, 133 Diemberger, Kurt, 259-61,264 Cordillera use C. Duff, Jim, 20-3 C. Apolobamba (Bolivia), 246-8 Duaundusoo (Irian Jaya), 315 C. Blanca (). 228-39 Dunagiri (Garhwal), 287-8 C. Huayhuash (Peru), 239-44 Duncan, Dyson, obit., 354 C. Oriental (Colombia), 226 “Dwarf” (Weasel Valley), 214 C. Real (Bolivia), 248-54 Dyleski, Kenneth, 297 C. Vilcabamba (Peru), 244-6 C. Vilcanota (Peru), 246 Courtright Reservoir (S.N., Calif), E 194 Crescent Pk (Logan Mts), 206 Echevarria, Evelio, 226-8, 240-1, La Cresta, Pica (C. Central), 226 253-4 Crow, Pieter, 226 ECOLOGICAL IMPACT (Garhwal) , “Crown Prince Spire” (Minaret 281 group), 193 Ecuador, 228 Cubillas, Isidoro Rodriguez, 236 Edith Cavell, Mt (Can Rockies), Cubo, Cerro (Patagonia), 255 208-9 Cumberland Peninsula (Baffin Edmonds, Skip, l-18 Island), 211-13, 214-15 Edward, Mt (Sweeney Mts), 225 Curran, Jim, his book, Trungo: The Efimov,. Sergei, 62-9 Nameless Tower, 322 Einar Mikkelsens Field (Greenland), ‘133, 138 - D Eldorado Springs Canyon (Cola), 201 Elephants Perch (Sawtooth Rg), Dalmore Junior (Staunings Alps), 195-6 139 Ellesmere-Bowman Island (Canadian Dalphin, Christian, 151 Arctic), 219 Dan Beard. Mt (Alaska). 165-6 Ellms, Chris, and Paul Ross, their Darrington area ‘(Wash), 182 book. Cannon. Cathedral, Hum- C. Darwin (Tierra de1 Fuego), 256-7 phr&‘s and Whitehorse, A Rock Davis, Steven, 118-21 Climber’s Guide, 338-9 Daz, Aldo, 129 Ellsworth, Richard, 167 Deception Pk (Himachal Pradesh), Elziro. Guida Molin. 147 291 Embick, Andrew R., M. D., 169-71 Dellinger, Robb, 188 Emerson, Richard M., 341-5 Denison, Mt (Katmai National Enosiagit (Cumberland Peninsula), Monument), 174-5 213 Eppley, Mark, 175-6 Ghent II (Pakistan), 302 Errington, Allan, 2 1O- 1 Gillette, Ned, 105-17 “Espalda” (C. Real), 249 Giluwe (Irian Jaya), 316 Esparta (C. Blanca), 238 Gobat, Francis, 145 Estcourt, Nick, 20-3 Gobbi, Toni, 129, 134 Europe, 257-8 Godfrey, Robert, 327-8 Evans, John, 165 Godfrey, Bob, and Dudley Chelton, Everest, Mt (Nepal Himalaya), 262-4 their book, Climb! Rock Climbing Evighedsfjord (Greenland), 150, in Colorado, 332-5 223-4 Gonzales, Constancio Veiga, 222 Goode, Mt (Cascade Mts), 183 Goodhue, Samuel H., 337-8 F Gorya, Cerro (C. Vilcabamba), 245 Gottman, John W., 196, 198 Fabre, Jean Luc, 236-7 Gove, Walter R., 184, 196 Fairweather Rg (Alaska), 180- 1 Graves Lake Dome (Wind River Fantin, his book, Himcilaya e Karakorirm, 324 Rg), 198 Grau, Erich, 240 Farina, Attilio, 133 Grayson, Marie, 188-9 Ferrier, Bernard, 261-2 Great Escape (Wheeler Crest), 186 Fin Arete (Little Cottonwood Great White Throne (Zion National Canyon), 198 Park), 196 Firey, Joan, 46-58 Greenland, art., 125-51, 219-24 FitzRoy (Patagonia), 255-6 “Grendel” (Kichatna Mts), 171-3 Flatirons (Colo), 202 Greyell, Chris, 183 “Flor de Rota” (C. Apolobamba), Gribbon, P. W. F., 129, 134-5, 148 246 Gribbon, Philip, 140 Fore], Mont (Greenland), 129, 130 Griffin, Landsay, 269,292 Foraker, Mt (Alaska Rg), 164 Grisel, Andre, 133 Fordham, D., 130-2 Gritzner, Ernst, 274 Fordham, Derek, 136 Groves, Nicholas, 291 Fortner, Michael, 167 Growler (Wheeler Crest), 187 Fotheringham, James, 214 de Gruyter, Philip, 227 Fowler, John, 347-8 Guardian (S.N. de Santa Marta), 227 Franz, Punta (Evighedsfjord), 223 “The Guardian” (Fairweather Rg), Frederickson, Gary, 164 180-l Freese, Lloyd, 202 Guerrin, Michel, 151 Fresno Dome (S. N., Calif), 193 Guha, Kamal K., 286,288,289, Fujimoto, Noburo, 176 291-2, 308-12 Fuller, Collin M., M. D., 178 Guillot, F., 149 Gunnbjijrns Fjeld (Greenland), 141 Gupta, Milan Sen, 289 G Gupta, Roma Sen, 291 Ganesh IV (Nepal), 270 Gang&en (Karakoram), 305 H Gangstan (Himachal Pradesh), 291 “Ganu Mor” (Weasel Valley), 214 Habeler, Peter, 262-3 Garhwal (India), 280-9 Hachindar Cchish (Pakistan), 306 Garhwal Himalaya (India), art., Hackett, Peter, M. D., 2667 29-31 Hackett, Steve, 62-9 Gasherbrum II (Karakoram), Hagen, Mt (Irian Jaya), 3 16 298-300 Hagerty Pk (Sweeney Mts), 225 Gasherbrum IV (Karakoram), 300-l Hagg, Heinz, 149 Gasherbrum V (Karakoram), 301 Haire, Curt, and Terry Rypkema, Genand, Bernard, 246-7 their book, A Climber’s Guide to Gerhard, Robert A., 161-3 Devil’s National Monument, 340

365 Hale, James, 166-7 Huandoy Oeste (C. Blanca), 229-30, Half Dome (Yosemite), 194 232-4 Haltatawa (c. Real), %3 Huantsan (C. Blanca), 239 Hambly, D&id, 183 Huascaran (C. Blanca), 230,237 Hamilton. Lawrence. 332-5 Huascarhn Norte (C. Blanca), 228-30 Hancopiti I, III, IV, V, VII, IX (C. Huascarh Sur (C. Blanca), 239 Real), 251 Huayna Potosi (C. Real), 247,252 “Hancopuro” (C. Real), 249 Huber, Hermann, 132 Hansen, Omar, 176 Huila, Nev. de (C. Central), 226 Hara, Makoto, 303-4 Hunter, Mt (Alaska Rg), art., 92-7, Haramosh (Pakistan), 306 art., 99-104, 164-5 “Harlech” (Staunings Alps), 148 Huntington, Mt (Alaska Rg), art., Hauberg Mis (Orville Coast), 225 70-89, 165 Hauser, Gunter, 297 Hupfauer, Sigi, 264 Havburn (Sawtooth Rg), 196 Hussein, Maj. Manzoor, 306 Haydon Pk (St. Elias tits), 178 HYPOXIA, 152 Haves. Mt (Alaska Ra), 167 He&h, Aidrej Zyg%nt, 36-45 Helms, Michael, 18 1-2 I “Hendricks Pk” (Brooks Rg), 176 Hendricks, Sterling B., 351 Idaho, 195-6 “Herald Pk” (Weasel Valley), 214 Igdlerfissalik (Kap Farvel district), Herligkoffer, Karl Maria, 150,264 146 Herzinger, Ernst, 133 Ikeda, Kinju, 130 Higgins, Thomas, 193, 202 Illamuu (C. Real). 248-9 HIGH ALTITUDE PULMONARY Inad;, Sadsahige, i86-7 EDEMA (HAPE), 152-9 de1 Inca, Cerro (C. Real), 254 HIGH ALTITUDE MEDICINE, ar?., Incacheriasca, Cerro (C. 152-9, 263-4, 266-7 Vilcabamba), 245 High Tatra (Poland), 257-8 Ingolffjeld (Angmagsalik district), Hillebrandt, David, 308 136, 140 Himachal Pradesh (India), 289-91 India, uri., 29-3 1, 280-98 Himalava (Nepal), nrf., 36-45, Indonesia, 3 16 258-3-16‘ - Ino (Alfred Wegener peninsula), 15 1 Himalavan Rescue Association, 266 Irian Jaya, 3 15-6 Himalchuli (Nepal), 270-l Irvin, Dick ,178-80 Hindu Kush (Afghanistan-Pakistan), Isherwood, Richard J., 274 ml., 31-5, 314-5 Ishimura, Akiya, 302 Hindu Raj (Pakistan), 308 Ishinca (C. Blanca), 238 Hird Star (Staunings Alps), 139 Ishinca Oeste (C. Blanca), 238 Hirman, Mt (Behrendt Mts), 225 Isosceles Pk (S. N., Calif), 186 Hirt, Roger, art., 118-21 Istor-o-Nal (Karakoram) , 308-l 2 Hoare, Richard, 148 Holdsworth, Gerald, 203 d Hooker, Mt (Wind River Rg), 199-200 Jack Mtn (Cascade Mts), 184 Hopkins, David, 283-4 Jaeger, Dr. Nicholas, 232-4, 264 Jagersky, Diana, 1-18 Hot Tuna Tower (Wheeler Crest), Jan, Sanjer, 1-18 187 Janas, Marek, 36-45 Hough, David, 195 Jancopiti I (C. Real), 253 Houston, Charles, art., 152-9 Jani, Cerro (Cerro Heim group), 255 Howell, Ian, 270-l Jankho Lava (C. Real), 252-3 Hsuih (), 316 Jannu (Nepal j, 258-9 Huandoy Este (C. Blanca), 237 Jatunmontepuncu (C. Blanca), 238-9 Huandoy Norte (C. Blanca), 235 Jenkins, Mt (Sweeney Mts), 225 Jenkins, W. S., 144 Killabuk (Cumberland Peninsula), Jetiboburani (Nepal), 280 213 Jharkanden use Kinnaur Kailash Kimsakolyo (C. Real), 253 Johannes Brae (Akuliaruseq), 150 Kimuklt (Koromint) valley Johnson, Lanny, 193-4 (Greenland), 149 Jones, Chris, 328-9 King, Simon, 194 Jones, Jon W., 203-4 King, Terry, A., 282-3 “Joroba de Camello (C. Real), 249 Kingnait Fiord (Cumberland Juge, Jean, &it., 350 Peninsula), 214-7 Junction Pk (Staunings Alps), 139 Kinnuar Kailash (Jharkanden) Jupin, Guy, 204 (Himachal Pradesh), 289 Kirigin, Jerko, 140 Kishtwar region (India), 292-4 K Kitaka (Kingnait Fiord), 217 (Karakoram), art., l-18, art., Klaput, Wieslaw, 3645 19-23 Klimek, Willi, 264 Kaelin, Joseph, 81-9 Klobusicky-Maillnder, Liz, 46-58 “Kalouk” (Weasel Valley), 214 Kluane National Park (Yukon), 202 Kalugaut (Kingnait Fiord), 217 Koa Rong valley (Lahul), 289:90 Kalanka (Garhwal), 286 Kobori, Kazumasa, 296 Kammerlander, Ruprecht Otto, obit., Kodama, Shigeru, 204 352-3 Kohe Bandaka (Garhwal Himalaya), Kanchenjunga (Himalaya), art., art., 29-3 1 3645,259 Komarkova, Vera, art., 45-58 Kangchungtse (Nepal), 261-2 Kondo, Takao, 305 Kangerdlugssuatsiaq Fjord Koromint (Kimuklt) valley (Greenland), 135 (Greenland), 149 Kap Farvel district (Greenland), 141, Kosmath, Ernst, 146 142, 145-6, 148, 151 Koteswar (Garhwal), 288-9 Karakoram (Pakistan), art., l-18, Kouno, Teruyuki, 274-6 art., 20-23, 298-313 Krakauer, Jonathan, 201, 208-9 Karasek, Herbert, 297-8 Kramar, Piro, M. D., 46-58 Kaser, Georg, 24 l-4 Kraus. Albert. 306-7 Kashmir (India). 292-8 Kreuzinger, Robert, 141, 147 Katmai National Monument Kroger, Chuck, 62-9 (Alaska), 174-5 Kulu (Himachal Pradesh), 291 Katsim Pahalin (Ladakh), 297 Kumar, Capt. Kiran, 289 Katsumi, Yukio, 302-3 Kun (Punjab Himalaya), 294-7 Kawamura, Katsuaki, 175 Kungmiut area (Greenland), 132 Kearney, Alan, 99-104 Kurczab, Janusz, 36-45 Kearney, Shari, art., 99-104 Kurtyka, Vojciech, 29-35 Kedarnath (Garhwal), 288 Kwangde Shar (Khumbu Himal), 269 Kedamath Dome (Garhwal), 288 Kelsey, Michael R., 3 16 L Kennedy, Michael, nr?., 24-8 Kerckhoff Dome (S. N., Calif), 190-3 Ladakh (India), 292-8 Ketil (Greenland), 150 de las Lagunas, Pica (C. Ketron, Karl “Chip”, 288 Apolobamba), 246 Khan, Subadar Maior Mohamed Lah Whoa Shan (Taiwan), 316 Salkem, 1-18 - Lahul (Himachal Pradesh), 289-90 Khorposht-e Yakhi (Hindu Kush), Lakpa Norbu, 46-58 314 Lancaster-Tinde (Staunings Alps), Khumbu Himal (Nepal), 269 Kichatna Mts (Alaska), 167-74 Landry, Werner A., 59-61, 190 Kichatna Spire (Kichatna Mts), 171, Lampak (Garhwal), 286 174 Langtang Lirung (Nepal), 269-70 367 Larrukhin, Slava, 62-9 McKinley National Park (Alaska) L&ok I (Biafo Karakoram), art., 24-8 Statistics, 161-3 Latok II, III, (Biafo Karakoram), 303 Medicine Bow Mts (Colo), 201-2 Lawu (Indonesia), 316 Medredev, Vitaly, 62-9 Laulan, Yves, 247-8 Meneghin, .Kent, 81-9 Leaning Tower (Yosemite), 195 Mer use Nun Leitl, Georg, 148 Merbabu (Indonesia), 316 Lev, Peter, 273 M&da, S. N. de (Venezuela), 225-6 (Nepal Himalaya), 267 Merrick Mts (Antarctica), 225 Little Cottonwood Canyon (Utah), Messner. Reinhold, 262-3, 307-8, his 198 book,.The Big Walls, 328-9 Little Tirich Mir (Karakoram), 313 Midorokawa, Hiroshi, 306 Little, Graham E., 214 Mikeska, Jan, 296 Lloca de Ancohuma (C. Real), 253 Miller, Irene, 46-58 Lobsang Tsering, 46-58 Miller, Jack, 238, 249-51 Lonan. Mt (St. Elias Mts). art., Miller, Keith, 134, 139, 145, 149 il8:2 1, 262-4 Minar (Kishtwar region), 292-4 Logan Mts (Northwest Terr), 206 Minaret group (S. N., Calif), 193 Logan, James, art., 122-4 Mingma (Sherpa), 264 Lorenzi, Renzo, 206 Mingma Tsering, 46-58 Lowe, Jeff, 24-8 Mitsui, Kazuo, 276 Lowe, George, 24-8 Mitten Richard, 173-4 Lynam, J. P. 0. F., 130 Mlotecki, Piotr, 36-45 Lyman, Joss, 141 Moomaw, Sheldon E., Jr., obit., 349 Monarch, Mt (Coast Rg), 206-7 La Moneda (Chile), 254 M Montfort. Joseo Maria. 144. 230 Maccib, Sergio, 136 Morning Pk (Himachal Pradesh), 291 MacIntvre. Alexander, 29-35 Moro, Renato, 278-80 MacKenzie, Hector, 204 Morse, Randy, his book, The Magrina, Jordi; 248-9 Mountains of Canada, 335-6 (Nepal), 259-61 Morse, Richard, 182-3 Malatynski, Marek, 36-45 Mosca, Leonardo, 140 (Neoal), 271-2 Mosher, Richard, 59-61 “Manco Cap& ‘(C. Apolobamba), Moss, Reilly, 62-9 246 Moukauskaus, Danius, 62-9 Manda II (Garhwal), 289 in Greenland Mapes, Andy, 175 1967-76, art., 125-5 1 March, William, 200 Muller, D. Dennis, 206-8 Margot, Rene, 238 Miiller; Jiirg, 136 Mariposa (C. Vilcanota), 246 Mulkila (Himachal Pradesh), 290 Marks, William L., 247 Muqtahk‘Pk (Cumberland Marnier, Jean Claude, 219-20 Peninsula), 215 Martin, Gerard, 239 Murata, Yoshiharu, 305 Martinez, Gregorio Ariz, 234-5 Muston, A. J., 140 Massy, Charles, 287 Mutch, Thomas A., 284-6 Mather (Alaska Rg), 166-7 Matheson, Mt (Merrick Mts), 225 Mathilde, Punta (Evighedsfjord), 223 N Mazeaud, Pierre, 264 McAdie. Mt. (S. N.. Calif), 189 “Naboa, Pica” (S. N. de Santa McCartney, Simon, 70-80 Marta), 228 McCubbrey, Bruce, 352-3 Nagato, Teruhiko, 268 McGee Spire (Tombstone Rg), 204 Nairz, Wolfgang, 262-3 McKinley, Mt (Alaska Rg) , 164 Nakamura, Koumei, 305 McKinley, Mt area (Alaska), 105-17 Nanda Devi (Garhwal), 280-4

368 (Karakoram), 306-10 Onishi, Yasuo, 278 Nanoq Mtn (Cumberland Peninsula), Orville Coast (Antarctic Peninsula), 215 225 Nanortalik area (Greenland), 133, Ovehenekov, Mischa, 62-9 146, 151 Owir VII (Karakoram), 3 13 Narsarssuaq district (Greenland), Owl Pillar (Cumberland Peninsula), 139, 144, 146, 222-3 213 . Nathorst Land (Greenland), 139 OXYGENLESS CLIMBING, 262-3 Nelson, Barry Allan, 201-2 Ozymandias (Cumberland Peninsula), Nepal, nrt., 36-61, 258-316 213 Nester, Edward O., obit., 353 Neto, Rai, 148 P Neumayer, Franz, 235 Neuner, Mt (Antarctica), 225 Pabil (Ganesh IV) (Nepal), 270 New Guinea use Irian Jaya Paine group (Patagonia), 256 Newson, Rob June, 165 Pakistan, art., 1-18, art., 20-28, Newville, Ed., 171-3 298-313 Ngga Pulu (Irian Jaya), 315 Palomani (C. Apolobamba), 246 Njas, Marek, 36-45 Palomani Cunca (C. Apolobamba), Nichols, Kenneth E., 218 246 Nilgiri South (Nepal), 276 Pamir Mts (USSR), arf., 62-9 Ninashanca (C. Huayhuash), 240 Pangnirtung Pass area (Baffin Island), Ningio Pk (Cumberland Peninsula). 217 2i5 Paornaqussit Q&at peninsula Nishi, Koichiro, 308-12 (Greenland), 142, 145 Nishigori, Mitsuaki, 306 “The Pap” S. N. de Santa Marta), Nishimoto, Mitsuharu, 283 228 Noltina, Richard M., 178-80 Passu Pk (Pakistan), 306 Noordijk, J. A., 135’ Patagonia (Chile/Argentina), 255-7 Norsketinde (Staunings Alps), 134, Patrucco. Giuseppe, 142 140 Pavlechenko, Lev, 62-9 NORTH POLE SOLO, 224 Pawlowski. Zbigniew, 36-45 North Triple Pk (Kichatna Mts), 167 Peacock, J. D. C., 130 Northwest Terr (Canada), 206 Pk of the Revolutionaries (Pamir (Hindu Kush), 314-5 Mts), 62-9 Nottaris, Romolo, 268-9 Peak 29 (Nepal), 272 Novocin Pk (Hauberg Mts), 225 Pelchat, Michael, 217 Nowacki, Przemyslaw, 36-45 Perino, Nino, 147 Nun (Ser) (Punjab Himalaya), 294-6 Peru, 228-48 Nun Kun Massif (India), 294-7 Peterson, Alvin E., obit., 351 Nunn, Paul, 303 Picarte group (Chile), 254 Nuptse (Nepal Himalaya), 267-8 Piera, Josep, 259 “Nuvoolik” (Weasel Valley), 214 Pietraszek, Anna T., 312 Pik Argenikitsun (Pamir Mts), 62-9 0 Pikkelhuen (Schweizerland), 148 Pik Kommunizma (Pamir Mts), 62-9 O’Connell, Kevin, 239 Pinol, Ramon Font, 149 Ocypete (Twaharpies Group), 176 Pinkerton, Harry, 141 Odenius, Michael G.. 183 Pinnacle Pk (Nun Kun massif), 294-5 Ogata, Yoshio, 270 Piramide (C. Blanca), 237 Ogawa, Yoshio, 278 Pisco (C. Blanca), 236-7 The Ogre (Biafo Karakoram), 302-3 Pisco Oeste (C. Blanca), 234-5, 239 Ojeda (S. N. de Santa Marta). 227 “Pt Roscoe” (Weasel Valley), 214 Okada, Takeshi, 178 ” de1 Plomo, Nevado (Chile), 254 Olz, Oswald, 263-4 Poland, 257-8 Omberg, Mary, 314 Pollet-Villard, Yves, 277 Pons, Jordi, 240 Robert, Mt (Wind River Rg), 199 Porter, John, art., 29-35 Roberts, David, 320-3 Porzak, Glenn, 271-2 Roberts, Dianne, l-18 Potlatch Pk (Kichatna Mts), 173 Roberts, Jack, art., 76-80, 185-6 Potts, David, 302 Roberts, Samuel, 314. 349 Powell, Mt (S. N., Calif), 186 Robson; Mt (Canadian Rockies), Pratt, Bruce, 165-6 urt., 122-4 Prow (Himachal Pradesh), 291 Rockwell, Robert, 246 Pucamataraju (C. Blanca), 239 Rodriguez, Jesus Maria, 245 Puita (Bamaj valley), 292 Romain. Gerard. 215-7 Pumori (Nepal Himalaya), 268-9 “Rook”‘(Kichatna Mts), 169 Phlpito Negro (C. Occidental), 226 Roscoe Mts (Greenland), 141 Punjab Himalaya (India), 294-5 Rosenfeld, Eric D., 217 Punta Amarilla (Chile), 254 Roskelley, John, l-18 Puntiaaudo (C. Oriental). 226 Ross, Andrew, 138 Purcell (B. C.), 208 .. Ross, Marty, 188 Putha Hiunchuli (Nepal), 272 Ross, Paul and Chris Elhns, their book, Putnam, William L., 209-10, 350 Cannon, Cathedral, Ha&h&s and Whitehorse, A Rock Climber’s Guide, 338-9 Q Rotovnik, Dolfi, 146 Qarajugtoq (Narssarssuaq district), Rouillard, Jacques, 135-7, 149-50, 146 222-3 Qilagula (Kingnait Fiord), 217 Rouse, Alan, 258-9 Qioqe peninsula (Greenland), 142, Rowell, Galen A. art., 105-17, 189-90 145, 147,149 “Rubble Pk” (Weasel Valley), 214 Quaersup (Evighedsfjord), 223 Rudzinski, Stanislaw, 312 El Quebradizo (Brujo group), 254 “Runival” (Weasel Valley), 214 Queen Mary, Mt (Yukon), 204 Rusk, C. E., his book, Tales of a Queralt, J. P., 146 Western Mountaineer, 331-2 Ouelluani. (C. Real)., _251 Rusmore, Margi, 46-58 Quilalu (K‘ingnait Fiord), 217 Russell, Mt (S. N., Calif), 186, 188-9 Quingarssuk (Evighedsfjord) ,224 Rutkiewicz, Wanda, 264--. Quitaraju (C. Blanca), 236, 239 Rypkema, Terry, and Curt Haire, their book, A Climber’s Guide to R Devil’s National Monument, 340 Rytterkmegten (Schweizerland), 148 Rainier, Mt (Cascade Mts), 184 Randall, Glenn, 8 l-9 Ranrapallka (C. Blanca), 238 S Rasac (C. Huayhuash), 240, 241 Rau, Dean, 204 Sacks, Ronald H., 211 Read, Ben, 62-9 “Sail Pinnacle” (Wind River Rg), 198 Redoubt, Mt (Alaska), 174 St. Elias, Mt (St. Elias Mts), 178-80, Regal Mt (Wrangell Mts), 175 202 Reichardt. Louis F.. art.. l-18. 322-4 St. Elias Mts (Alaska-Yukon), art., Reilly, J. T., 151 . 118-21, 176, 178-80 Reina, La (S.N. de Santa Marta), 227 Saito, Tsutomu, 176 Rey, Claude, 132, 140,142 Sajnoha, Marian, 306-7 Richey, Mark, 232 Salcantay (C. Vilcabamba), 244-6 Richter, Hans, 129 Salluyo (C. Apolobamba), 246 Ridgeway, Rick, l-18, his book, Sam Ford Fiord (Baffin bland), The Boldest Dream, 3 17-3 18 210-l Riesenstein (Kichatna Mts) , 171 Sapp, Gregory, 59-61 Riley, Tony, 20-3 Sarnquist, Frank, 352-3 Robal Kang (Kulu) ,291 Sangmissoq (Evighedsfjord) ,224 370 Santander (S. N. de Santa Marta), Smith, Roger, S. D., 142 227 Smoot, Brian, 198-9 (C. Blanca), 232-4 Smutek, Ray, 257-8 S. N. de Santa Marta (Colombia), Canyon (Utah), 196-8 227 Soaring Eagle Tower (Wheeler Crest), San Roman H., Gaston, 254 187 Saudon, Alain, 236 Sobolewski, Andrzej, 36-45 Savenc, Franci, 221 SOLO CLIMBING, art., 92-7, 307-8; Sawtooth Rg (Idaho), 195-6 C. Blanca, 232-4, 236 Schaller. Robert. l- 18 SliSt, Olaf, 176-8 Schenck; Jeb, 166 Sorenson, Tobin, 235 Schlee, Alexander, 223-4 South America, 225-57 Schloz, Wilhelm, 222 South Early Spire (Cascade Schmidt, Adi, 144 Mts), 183-4 Schmitz, Kim, 194 South Howser Tower (Bugaboos), 208 Schmutz, Emanuel, 273 South Rawah Pk (Medicine Bow Schunk. George. 198-9 Mts), 201-2 Schweizerland (Greenland), 129, 132, Spantik (Pakistan), 305 136-7, 145, 147-8 Speer, Peter A., 215 Scott, Doug, 20-3, 267-8 Suider Pk (Wind River Rn). 198-9 Seerainer, Helmut, 151 Spurr, Mt (Alaska), 174 -’ ’ Seivwright, George, 118-21 Srikanta (Garhwal), 289 Ser use Nun Stark, Woody, 189 Serafin, Jan, 36-45 STATISTICS (Mt McKinley National Sermiligaq Fjord (Angmagsalik area), Park), 161-3 136 Staunings Alps (Greenland), 129, Shah, Gohar, l-18 132, 134, 139-42, 145, 148-50,222 Shah, Tsheran, 1-18 Steeple Spire (Kichatna Mts), 173 Shibazaki, Tohru, 305 Steigleiter, Dieter, 272 Shimakata, Kenji, 306 Stephenson’s-bjerg (Greenland), 130 “Shark’s Fin use Aleta de Tiburbn Steven, Helen, 139 Sharma, L. P., 294-5 Stok Kangri region (Ladakh), 297 Shaver, Brad, 288 Stonehouse Buttress (S. N., Calif), Shudra Par (Himachal Pradesh). 291 185-6 Siekierski, Grzgorz, 36-45 ’ Storebror (Tasissarssik Fjord area), Sierra Nevada (Calif ). 185-94 222 Silverthrone (Alaska’Rg), 166-7 Storm King (Cascade Mts), 184-5 Simmons (Sintana), Pica (SN. de Strange, Gregory, 213 Santa Marta), 227 Straszyszyn, Zbigniew, 36-45 Singh, V. P., 288 Streibert, Sam, 338-9 Sintana (Simmons), Pica, (S. N. de Stump, Terry, .122-4 Santa Marta), 227 Suikarsuak Tower (Tassermuit Fjord Sioralik Fjord (Angmagsalik district), area), 220-l 140 Sukkertoppen area (Greenland), 130, Sir Harrison Smith, Mt (Logan Mts), 133, 135-6 206 Sumner, William, l-18 Siulh (C. Huayhuash), 241-4 “Sunrise Spire” (Kichatna Mts), 169 SKI DESCENTS (C. Blanca), 239 Suzuki, Shigeo, 291 SKI MOUNTAINEERING, 105-17 Sweeney Mts (Antarctic peninsula), Skoog, Gordon R., 183 225 “Skuzerian Pk” (Kichatna Mts) , 169 Sylvester, Rick, art., 62-9 Skvarca, Jorge, 255 Slesse, Mt (Coast Rg), 207-8 T Slesser, Malcolm, 136 Smart. J. H. M.. 134 Tagliapietra, Amadeo, 193 Smatko, Andrew J., M. D., 349-50 Tairona (S.N. de Santa Marta), 227 371 “Taipykollo” (C. Real), 25 1 Trisul (Garhwal), 286-7 Taiwan, 3 16 Tritton, Nick, 308 Takahashi, Sadamasa, 301-2 Tsacra Chico (C. Huayhuash), 240 Tanaka, Seiko, 278 Tukuche Peak (Nepal), 276 El Tapado (Chile), 254 “Tulio Ospina” (S. N. de Santa Tara Par (Himachal Pradesh), 291 Marta), 228 “Tarsuinn” (Weasel Vallev) . 214 Tupilak group (Angmagsalik region), Tasa Pk use’Trinity Pk + ’ ’ 221 Tasermiut district (Greenland), 138 Twaharpies Group (Alaska), 176 Tasker, Joe, 20-3 Tassermuit Fjord area, 220-l Tasissarssik Fjord (Angmagsalik U area), 136, 222 Uchmanski, Bernard, 36-45 Tathagata Tower (Logan Mts), 206 Uemura, Naomi, 224 Taulliraju (C. Blanca), 232, 236-7 Ukaliq (Kingnait Fiord), 217 Taylor, Dyanna, 46-58 Ulcar, Jure, 244-5 Tenzing Norgay, his book, Tenzing Ulla Caya (C. Apolobamba), 248 after Everest, 324-5 Ulrich, Malcolm, 99-104 Terazawa, Kazuhiko, 255 Umanak area (Upernivik Island), Testera, Giancarlo, 134 129-30, 132-3, i35, 149 Teter, Kesler L., obit., 349-50 Umiamaku Nunat peninsula (Umanak Tews, Christy, 46-8 area), 130 Thuermer, Angus M., Jr., art., 81-9, Umianeako Nuna peninsula 195 (Greenland), 150 Thomas, Emlyn, 292 United States, 161-202 Thomas, Jeff, 99-104 USSR, art., 62-9 Thor, Mt (Auyuittuq National Park), Unsoeld, William F., obit.. 341-5 211 Upernavik area (Greenland), 129-30, Three O’Clock Rock (Darrington 134-5, 142, 144-6, 149 area), 182 Upiqjua Pillar (Cumberland Thui II (Hindu Raj), 308 Peninsula), 215 Tierra de1 Fuego (Chile/Argentina), Urus Este (C. Blanca), 238 255-7 Utah. 196-8 Tilicho (Nepal), 273 Tindall, Reed, 184 Tiriaq (Kingnait Fiord), 217 V Tirich Mir East (Karakoram), 3 12-3 Tiso, Graham, 134 Van Bruggen, Conrad, 189 Tobias, Michael, 297 Van Meter, Steven, 59-61 Tobin, Carl, 36-45 Venezuela, 225-6 Toft, Murray, 196-8 de Villares. Pave1 Girard, 296 Tokushima, Atsuo. 306 Viluyo I, II (C. Real), 251 Tollefson Nunatak (Antarctic Viluyo III (C. Real), 253 peninsula), 225 Tombstone Rg (Yukon), 204 W Toon. J. Richard. 294 Torrent, Mont (Evighedsfjord), 223 Wallerstein, George, 140 Trabado, Antonio, 232 Ward, Ed, 326-7 Tranquility Dome (S. N., Calif), 189 Waterman, Jonathan, 118-2 1 “Transition Pk” (Kichatna Mts), 169 Waterman, John, art., 92-7 Trapecio (C. Huayhuash), 244 Wangel (Sherpa), 46-58 Trinity Peak (Task Peak) Watkins Bjerne (Greenland), 135 (Karakoram). 301-302 Watkins, Mt (Yosemite), 195 “Trodigal” (Weasel Valley), 214 Watkins Mts (Greenland), 141 Trono Blanco, Cerro (Patagonia), Washington, 182-5 256 Watson, Vera, 46-58, obit., 345-7 372 Wdowiak, Symon, 36-45 Wyoming, 198-201 Weasel Valley (Baffin Island), 213-4 Wysoki Tatra (High Tatra), 257-8 Weins, Doug. 105-17 Weinzierl, Wolfgang, 139 Y Weinzierle, Hubert, 3 14 Wheaton, Anthony, 292-3 Yalung Kang (Nepal), 259 Wheeler Crest (S. N., Calif), 186-7 Yanapaccha, 236-7 Whitechuck Mtn (Cascade Mts), 183 Yanapaccha Chico (C. Blanca), 234 Whitehouse, Annie, 46-58 Yanaraju (C. Blanca), 239 Whitelaw. David. 182-4 Yerupajl (C. Huayhuash), 239-40 White Needle (Nun Kun Massif), Yerupajl Chico (C. Huayhuash), 240 294-5 Yerupaja Sur (C. Huayhuash) , 240 White Sail use Dharamsura Yosemite (Calif), 19415 Whitney Portal (S. N., Calif), 185, Yukon Terr. (Canada). 202-6 186 (Taiwan), 316 Whiton, Mark, 230 Whittaker, James, 1-18 Z Wichman Tower (Arrigetch), 176-S Wickwire, James, 1-18 Zabi Mnich (High Tatra), 258 Wight, Barbara, 180-l Zanotti, Augusto, 244-6 Wildflowers Pk (Cumberland Zanskar Rg (Ladakh), 297-8 Peninsula), 215 Zappelli, Cosimo, 252 Wilson, Ken, editor, his book, Classic Zboinski, Andrzej, 289-90 Rock, 327-8 Zeitsev, Vadim, 62-9 Wind River Rg (Wyo), 198-200 Zimmerman, T. C. Price, 33 1-2 Witches Tower (Cascade Mts). 182 Zion National Park (Utah), 196 Wittman, Bernhard, 236 ” Zocchi, Rino, 130 Wrangell Mts (Alaska), 175 Zoia, Angelo, 244 Wroz, Wojciech, 36-45 Zurek, Krzysztof, 29-35 Wurzer, Rudolf, 307 Zyzak, Adam, 237

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