455S Fit in the Darndest Places What's New You Can Always Go to for Up-To-Date Information 24-7

VOLUME 2 ISSUE 4 - MAY 2010 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 4 MAY 2010 455s fit in the Darndest Places What's New You can always go to www.wildaboutcars.com for up-to-date information 24-7. News: Hemmings Muscle Machines Spring 2010 Musclepalooza XI is May 30! Lebanon Valley NY. Featuring the FAST Shootout. Stock-appearing, tweaked and tuned muscle cars run head-to-head drag strip shootouts. Plus Muscle Car Show. For info: [email protected] or call Trisha Grande at 1-800-227-4373 ext. 79500 Next Month’s Feature: Is this car worth anything? Tune in to find out! V-6? 260 V-8? 350 V-8?. Looks like it to me. Nope there is a 462 BB in there! Sticking a Big Block in the Olds G-Body I think all of us know that Oldsmobile’s Gen 2 V-8 has such similar architecture that the only main difference is the deck height of about 1.3” (9.330” vs. 10.625”). The big block is about 3” taller and about 1.5” wider, which, in some instances, can mean a tight fit. But if you fiddle around, there isn’t an Olds body rear-drive body short of the late Starfire (H-body) that won’t allow fitment. That said, we all know that sticking a 455 in an Omega (X-Body) or 1964- Look at this hunk of junk! Would you pay big 77 A-body is just a engine hoist away. If the small block went in, the big bucks for it? If you knew what it is, you might. block will follow. But what about the G-Body? Well Mike Kimmons is here to tell you that it works – with little or no problem. An OPC member is pleased as punch to have it in his garage – find out who and why next Continued on page 3 month! 1 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 4 - MAY 2010 Sticking a Big Block in the Olds G-Body Continued from page 1 Mike Kimmons bought this beauty 27 years ago, and I’m sure when he first pulled it into his garage, he didn’t envision where it is today. But projects like this seem to take on a life of their own and before you know it, there they are (I bet almost every reader knows what I’m talking about). But before we talk about Mikes car, specifically, let’s talk about the G-Body and its potential to be a screamer. I know there are those of you out there with a reworked 1978-87 Cutlass who are saying “of course” to what I’m going to say here, but there are a lot of performance Oldsmobile people that this will all be news to. There are a lot of advantages to using the G-Body. First, it is the last of the small full frame cars GM made. This means that the structure can take a lot of abuse – both on the street and at the drag strip. Second, it was designed to accept the Olds V-8, which means that every Olds V-8 from 1964 to 1987 will fit. The rest of the driveline, while not “drop in” is easily modified, with most earlier components useable – from the transmission to the rear. Here is a picture of a 455 in a G-Body. In this case the A/C has Third, the car has much more modern components – especially in the been removed, but as you will see later, that is not an issue. interior – and most of these are available across the parts counter – making “restoration” a bit cheaper. Brakes, suspension, steering, even things like radio and A/C are of a much newer generation and far more efficient than the pieces that the 60s and early 70s group are used to. They are comfortable inside and they ride nice – even with the FE-2 suspension. They are fairly plentiful and few models besides the 79 and 83-84 H/O and the 85-87 442s are “collectible” leaving lots of sleeper cars to choose from. Last, they reasonably priced and many are still in great condition – because GM had figured out how to conquer rust a lot better by the time the G-Body hit the streets. Consider also that their more modern components allow one to cruise in comfort compared to our older muscle car era cars, especially when it comes to a long trip – like heading out to the OCA Nationals. Okay you say – what’s the down side? The rears are a bit frail; the tranny is made out of balsa wood; the interiors are velour heaven; and you have to like the styling, which was 80s all the way – they are not going to be confused with a 60s muscle car. G-Body engine bay. Note that there is plenty of room on the driver’s side as the steering shaft is set off to the side and the But let’s be honest – the 83-87 Cutlass coupe body style is considered quite brake booster is high and off to the right. On the right-hand side attractive and the 78-82 Cutlass Supreme Coupe is not bad looking either. the heater-A/C unit is also high and off to the left. What I like best is that they still kept the Olds identity and few would not The engine mounts are the same as used in earlier A-Body cars recognize them as such. and if you look carefully you will see that there are numerous mounting holes in the frame. The “K” frame is quite similar to Engine and other Fitment older cars as well. Of course, many of these cars were fitted with the Olds 260 and 307, so that block is a drop in. Anything from a worked 5 liter to a 403 will drop in, in place of the original. If your state has the sniffer, you can adapt performance cat cons and duels in place of the restrictive old converter and restrictive single pipe. If not, the sky’s the limit and headers and duals are sold see Dick Miller Racing, (www.dickmillerracing.com) for one, has a host of components for exhaust systems. If you are running a small block, all components from your original or a donor small block car will fit. The big block will drop in an fit on the motor mounts if you had a Olds SB in the car to begin with. If not, the frame mounts are available and in most cases the bolt holes to accept the mounts are drilled. The engine will not interfere with the brakes and the A/C or steering. Continued on next page 455 in a G-Body. Note that standard fan, shroud and radiator all fit as designed. 2 VOLUME 2 ISSUE 4 - MAY 2010 Sticking a Big Block in the Olds G-Body continued from front page The SB radiator is sufficient to cool the BB, but if you live in hot climates, you might want to consider the diesel or an aluminum radiator. All other parts should fit, including most of your brackets, though a longer set of belts may be required. The original TH-200 is unusable once you increase the HP, either by a BB or a modified SB. I suggest a TH-350 for those of you with a TH-200. If you use a TH 350, the trans mount is located 22.25” from the bell housing – exactly the same distance as the TH-200, making it a drop in. If it is a 6” or short tail shaft unit, it will be 0.75” shorter than the TH-200, which should allow you to use your existing driveshaft. If you have a TH-200 4R, you are in the same boat, though this unit seems capable of handling most mods to a SB below 300 HP. If you are installing a BB or a 350/403 making 330 or better HP, the 200 4R is marginal. In this case, the short shaft TH-400 is also a drop in both in trans mount and total trans length, though your driveshaft yoke will likely have to be changed. If This picture shows a big block installed with the A/C intact. you want 4 speeds (OD), you should go over to the TH-700 R4. (there is a The owner says: “I used the pulley's from the 455 and the companion article on installing this trans in a 1964-77 A-Body in this issue brackets from the 307, I could have used the pulley's from the and much of that info will apply here). You can move your trans cross 307 but they have the AIR provisions and I didn't want the extra rotational weight. I had to use a spacer (bunch of washers) for member back 0.75” (elongate or re-drill holes in frame) to place this tranny. the lower alternator bracket where it bolts up to the power You will have to shorten your driveshaft by 1.75” if you had a TH-200 or 200 steering pump, it’s not critical but adds more support.” 4R unless you can find a shaft from a 8.5” rear car and you have a 7.5” rear. Various GM Auto Transmission Sizes and Mounting Points Past some minor tweaking, you are done. If you have a 7.5” rear, you may be replacing it once you go to the drag strip, but if you street drive and don’t do a lot of banzi starts it can survive.

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