NATIONAL HISTORIC! LANDMARKS Network

Volume V, No. 1 National Park Service, National Historic Landmarks Program Spring 2002

Fort Leavenworth's St. Ignatius Chapel Oatlands land destroyed in December fire purchase By Dcna Sanford preserves open space ire gritted the 1889 St. Ignatius was hurt when he tried to move his By Vicki Bendure Chapel at Fort Leavenworth the propane tank during the fire's apex. Fnight of December Hi. 2001. Tim Alcohol. Tobacco and Firearms investi­ Hanna. historic architect at the fort, report­ gators determined that several sections of avid Boyce. executive director of ed that the intense fire melted all stained- the structure should he torn down for safe­ Oatlands. Inc.. announced recent­ glass windows, caused part of the bell ty reasons, including the south section of Dly that the coalition of conserva­ chapel to fall, and the roof to completely the building and the west gable end. Ilie tion groups including Oatlands. the collapse, leaving only a burned-out shell. Arm\- had hoped to reconstruct the chapel, National Trust for Historic Preservation No one was killed or injured by the fire, integrating the surviving walls and tower. and the Jamestown Compact Land Trust although the occupant of a nearby house cleared the first hurdle in their effort to pur­ continues on page 10 chase 67 acres adjacent to Oatlands Plantation. The property, which was slated to become a housing development, will be preserved in open space. In December 2001. McLean. Va.. developer Konterra Elm Street. L.C., agreed to sell the property for $2.1 million, a price below the appraised value. The coalition had to post a non-refundable deposit by February 28 in order to secure the option to purchase the property at that price. In addition to Boyce. coalition leaders include Oatlands board member David Williams and the Jamestown Compact Land Trust Executive Director Thomas Dodson. Boyce. Williams and Dodson are working closely with the National Trust to

Firemen pour water into the burning St. Ignatius Chapel at Fort Leavenworth, Kan. Investigators believe the late-night fire was caused by an electrical fault. Photograph courtesy of the NPS Midwest Regional Office continues on page 10 FROM THE NHL PROGRAM The call to stewardship By Elizabeth Moore Rossi

he most magnificent... the rare... the finest Activities such as these attest to the commitment of stewards remaining example of... the extraordinary... and to an understanding of the responsibilities stewardship T the superb... involves. These are all phrases frequently used in reference to The loss of an NHL affects not only the people associated National Historic Landmarks. By their very nature. NHL with a property, such as in the case of the St. Ignatius Chapel properties are the acme de la rm/ie—which is why involvement at Fort Leavenworth, but also our collective historic memory. with and by stewards is critical to the continued vitality of the Though not always so unforeseen, damage of other kinds- nation's most historically significant buildings, districts, whether it be caused by deterioration, encroaching develop­ objects, structures and sites. ment, or apathy borne of a lack of knowledge about and While designation as an NHL identifies the exceptional appreciation for history and its physical reminders—can be significance of a property, assistance and monitoring continue equally tragic. While proper stewardship directly circumvents long after designation in order to ensure that properties retain the harm caused by neglect, the examples set through appro­ their integrity and that stewards have the information the)' priate stewardship also advance a better understanding of a need to sustain an enduring and successful stewardship. property's significance—as well as a greater appreciation for National Park Service staff annually monitors properties, the area of history which a resource represents. Simply put. a uses NHLs as educational tools, develops and researches new good stew.ml is also a good teacher. theme studies, and encourages further interest in the NHL Even though fewer than three percent of properties listed program. Stewards in turn have the opportunity to take on the National Register of Historic Places arc designated as advantage of various NPS programs, including grants, feder­ National Historic Landmarks, the thousands of individuals al historic preservation tax credits and technical assistance. who act as NHL stewards arc a powerful voice which speaks As seen in this issue, the independent activities of stewards for the importance ol our American past and its physical also seek to maintain and protect NHLs-such as through the reminders. establishment of organizations designed to promote steward­ Elfathcth Moore Rnwi is an ttithitcttiirid historian with .VPS Technical ship, the protection of adjacent properties from inappropriate Presentation Soviet's and coordinates National Historic Landmarks growth and development, and rehabilitation projects. Network for the National Histont Landmarks A.wislante Initiative.

NATIONAL HISTORIC LANDMARKS NETWORK MISSION OF THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

The National Park Service is dedicated to Published by the National P.irk Service conserving unimpaired the natural and cultural resources Fran P. Mainclla of the National Park System Director for the enjoyment, education and inspiration of this (Catherine H. Stevenson Associate Director. C.iittur.it Resource Stewardship and Partnerships and future generations. John Kohbins The Service is also responsible for managing Manager, National Center for Cultural Resources a great variety of national and international programs Frank J.J. Miele designed to help extend the benefits of Editor Senior Historian, Southeast Regioii.il Office natural and cultural resource conservation and outdoor recreation Elizabeth Moore Rossi NHL Network Coordinator throughout this country and the world. Architectural Historian. Technical Preservation Serenes

National Historic Landmarks Network is published biannually by the National Historic Landmarks Assistance Initiative. Technical Preservation Services branch of the National Center for Cultural Resources and is tree of charge. Articles may be submitted to Frank J.J. Miele. N'PS Southeast Regional Office, Atlanta Federal Center—1924 Building, 100 Alabama Street, S.W., Atlanta. Georgia 30303. Telephone (404) 562-3171. E-mail Frank^Mielc® nps.gov.

2 S-T-E-W-A-R-D-S-H-I-P N E W-S

ALASKA Skagway's Moore Block to be rehabilitated By Grant Crosby

o passersby. the building on the corner of Fifth and State Streets in T Skagvvay. Alaska, looks forlorn. Its windows are haphazardly covered in plywood, weeds grow fevcrishh under the faux brick sheathing, and a single light bulb illuminates a sign indicating the building's last tenant, an Italian restaurant. It is sur­ Soldiers of the 106th Coast Artillery, who were prising that the building has not been and exceptionally enthusiastic owners. stationed in Skagway, Alaska for much of the razed, and it nearly was. Virginia Long and Howard Smith, have summer of 1902, pose on Fifth Street in front of the Moore Block. Ongoing architectural Hut the building's dejected appearance begun to study the layers of this building's investigation will guide the proposed only adds to its humble beginnings and col­ history with the intent of rehabilitating it to rehabilitation of the building. Photograph courtesy of the Skagway Museum and Archives. orful past. Ironically, the Moore Block may its 1902 appearance. The process has been be one of Skagway's oldest and most sig­ challenging. Several discoveries revealing nificant buildings. Built by Skagway's the uniqueness of this building have per­ prisingly. with nominal stud construction. founder. Capt. William Moore, area 1897. plexed the owners. Realizing the Moore Block's significance the Moore Block has housed numerous Structurally, the Moore Block defies all and unique construction technology, the occupants over its 105-year history. The sense of reason. Its primary load-bearing owners reconsidered their original plans of building originally served as Moore's office walls are constructed of Hi-foot-long 1-inch developing the lot. Instead, they began and personal residence, but was later used by 12-inch boards assembled in a vertical working with NPS historians, archeolo- as office space, a tailor shop, a hotel, a board-and-battcn fashion. Its exterior gists, historical architects and a structural bank, a dry goods store, and most recently cladding, typical 5-inch horizontal drop sid­ engineer to determine how they might as apartments and a restaurant. ing, provides little, if any. lateral stability. rehabilitate the building for contemporary Today, the Moore Block contributes to Even more astonishing is the fact that the use. Their hope is to retain as much his­ the Skagway Historic District and White second-floor joists and roof rafters bear on toric fabric as possible while also illustrat­ Pass National Historic Landmark and 2-inch by 4-inch ledgers nailed simply to ing the building's local significance and its Skagway's historic district, a district exem­ the board-and-battcn wall. incomparable construction. Current plans plary for its late-19th-century architecture. The Moore Block was built in stages, for the rehahilitatcd structure include com­ Fortunately, the Moore Block's most recent perhaps reflecting the "boom and bust" mercial space on the ground floor, with nature of a gold rush town. The offices and one-room efficiency apartments first portion was built arm 1897 on the second floor. and consisted of a simple rectan­ In situ evidence and other clues are being gular building with a gable roof. used to guide this rehabilitation effort to By 1898. the original portion the building's 1902 appearance. The 1902 was extended to create an L- era was chosen because it includes both shaped building—an addition major additions and the prominent false- revealed by a second, parallel front with recessed store entry. This peri­ gable roof and a false front od is also well documented. For example, detailed with window pedi­ on the interior, several layers of wall and ments, scroll trim and an ornate ceiling papers remain partially intact and The Moore Block building, constructed circa 1897, has seen many uses and a variety of modifications in its history. This circa 1975 cornice. In 1912. a final addition reveal the primary spatial organization view shows the building much as it appears today—its wood filled in the remaining segment from the earliest tenants. Similarly, the siding covered with asphalt brick sheathing and its windows covered in plywood. Photograph courtesy ol NPS Alaska Support Office. of the plan and was built, sur- framing and accompanying "shadows" 3 from the storefront entry and window and Pribilof Islands, using $4.9 million Orthodox cathedral. St. Michael Cathedral ornamentation arc clearly visible and will appropriated by Congress as part of the in Sitka, was built between 1844 and 1848. provide necessary measurements to restore Aleut Restitution Act of 1988. The restora­ Today, there are more than 79 active Russian these elements. Period photographs also tion of those six churches was completed in Orthodox churches in the state, seven of offer important chics of dominant features. 2001. There arc many more in need of which are National Historic Landmarks, During the gold rush of 1898. Fifth and similar attention. and 29 base National Register status. State was the center of Skagway and the Russia laid claim to Alaska in 1741. fol­ Grant Crosby is a Historical Architect with the Moore Block was prominently located. lowing Vitus Bering's pioneer voyage JYPS Alaska Support Office, Anchorage, Alaska. Today. Skagway's main street is Broadway, across the Pacific from Siberia. Hundreds one block to the east, where visitors stroll ol Russian fur-seekers followed, and the The Cathedral of St. Michael the and window shop, sometimes unaware of Archangel was constructed between Orthodox mission established a presence in 1844 and 1848 to serve the Russian the historic structures on secondary streets. 1794. The first Orthodox church was like­ Orthodox people of Sitka. Alaska, During the height of the summer season, which was the capital of Russian ly built as a chapel on Umnak Island in the America from 1808 until 1867. This the town's population can grow by 5.000 Aleutians in the 17b()s. The first Russian circa 1890 view reveals the cathedral's people per day. Work-in-progress preser­ classic cruciform construction and onion-shaped dome. The church was vation projects, such as the Moore Block designed by the first bishop of Alaska. Photograph by Edward deGroff. courtesy of rehabilitation, provide an educational expe­ Anchorage Museum of History and Art rience for the public, offering a first-hand look into how and why the nation's historic structures are preserved. The owners of the Moore Block hope to recapture the spir­ it of historic Skagway while accommodat­ ing a tourist population fascinated by the history of the Yukon gold rush. Grant Crosby is a Historical Architect with the NPS Alaska Support Office, Anchorage, Alaska.

Although destroyed by a catastrophic ALASKA fire in 1966, many of the cathedral's historic icons and relics were saved. Historic American Building Survey (HABS) drawings, based on measurements taken in 1942, were Group formed to help used to reconstruct the cathedral, seen here in 1984. Photograph by Barbara preserve Russian S Smith, courtesy of NHL Survey Orthodox churches By Grant Crosby Members of the St. Nicholas Brotherhood and St. Michael's Parish gather around a model of the cathedral constructed for an coalition of preservationists. NPS exposition, circa 1909. Photograph by E.W. Memli. courtesy of Alaska State Library. Juneau personnel. Alaska Native leaders, Aand clergy came together in Anchorage. Alaska, early in 2002 with the aim of preserving Russian Orthodox churches throughout the state. The non­ profit group took the name. ROSS IA (Russian Orthodox Sacred Sites in Alaska). It is founded on the realization that many of the Orthodox churches in Alaska are sig­ nificant structures in need of attention. ROSSIA hoard members hope not only to preserve these historic buildings, furnish­ ings and related religious icons, but also to educate local and regional communities through project involvement The group plans an ambitious fund-raising campaign. It notes the precedence of the extensive church restoration project in the Aleutian 4 CALIFORNIA Asian-American resource to be restored By Rei Terada

n the 1920s and "30s. the Little Tokyo Historic District of downtown Los IAngeles was a thriving community of shops, theaters and restaurants. All that remains of that world are a few blocks of original buildings, most of them in disre­ pair. Now a piece of that lost world is being restored, stirring nostalgia and reflection among Los Angeles' Asian-Americans. The Far East Building at 347 East First Street has been acquired for restoration by the Little Tokyo Service Center The Far East Cafe building, located in Los Angeles' Little Tokyo Historic Community Development Corporation. District, is currently undergoing Constructed in 1909. the Far East is an rehabilitation as a mixed-use development, including affordable eclectic Beaux Arts-influenced structure housing. These pre-rehabilitation with enormous arched windows, a major views show the building's 1935 neon "Chop Suey" sign and the third-floor skylight, and a 1935 "Chop historic restaurant's unique high- Suey" sign. The building includes hotel walled lacquered booths. Photographs courtesy of NPS Technical Preservation and commercial space, and from 1935 to Services. 1994. housed the Far East Cafe, a famous local eatery. Generations of Japanese- American families dined and held their after the Northridgc earthquake wedding and funeral receptions there. of 1994 and has been vacant Distinctly American in its hybridity. the and decaying since. Although the Little Tokyo Service Center Community Far East Cafe was owned and run for 59 Japanese-American community is almost Development Corporation will renovate years by a Chinese family, the Mar family, ferocious in its desire to see it restored, it can the hotel portion of the building into 16 and served Chinese food for he difficult to make mainstream contribu­ units of affordable housing, a neighbor­ Japanese-American tastes—dishes like tors and agencies understand what is impor­ hood computer center and a gallery. A new "American Chop Suey." "Water Chestnut tant about the Little Tokyo Historic District. Far East Cafe will occupy the ground-floor Hash" and "Pork Chow Mein. Chicago Not only is it run-down, it is not always retail space. The restoration entails repair­ Style." The Far East stood watch over most architecturally distinguished and it is not ing earthquake damage, replacing mechan­ of the history of Little Tokyo, from its 'Japanese-looking." Like other ethnic his­ ical systems, and performing seismic retro 1930s heyday through internment in the toric landmarks, the historic district presents fitting, while preserving all historically sig­ 1940s. the dispersal of the the public with the challenge of recognizing nificant features—including the unique Japanese-American population, and mis­ that cultural significance is not always craft­ high-walled lacquered restaurant booths. guided redevelopment in the 1950s. The ed to meet one's preconceptions. Assemblyman Cedillo calls the project Chinese-owned Far East Cafe remained After years of work, however, the non­ "significant because it addresses the need open during relocation, when African- profit Little Tokyo Service Center for affordable housing and is consistent American families moved into apartments Community Development Corporation with the vision to revitalize downtown Los vacated by Japanese-Americans. The neigh­ will break ground on the rehabilitation of Angeles by preserving culture and history." borhood was briefly known as Bronzcville. the Far East early in 2002. With funding Ken Bernstein. Director of Preservation Andrew Chong. a member of the Mar fam­ from the State Housing and Community Issues at the Los Angeles Conservancy, ily, recalls that the cafe allowed Japanese- Development Department, federal historic says the Conservancy is "excited" that this Americans returning from internment preservation tax credits, and the project "will restore a site of such rich camps to eat on credit. In Raymond Ahmanson Foundation, as well as assis­ architectural and cultural significance." Chandler's Farewell, My Lovely. Phillip tance from the Los Angeles Conservancy, Rei Terada is affiliated -with the Little Tokyo Marlowe ate there as well! the L.A. Community Redevelopment Service Center Community Development 'Hie Far East Building was condemned Agency, and Assemblyman Gil Cedillo. Corporation in Lis Angeles. 5 ILLINOIS Video highlights maritime landmark By Donald J. Terras

hen people think of Illinois, most make associations with Wthe City of Chicago or the vast stretches of farmland that have sprout­ ed from prairies throughout the state. However, the reality is that Illinois* history is very much intertwined with America's maritime history. The 1999 designation of Grosse Point Lighthouse as a National Historic Landmark underscores the impor­ tance of the state's contribution to maritime commerce on the country's inland seas, the Great Lakes. For man\- scars during the latter half of the 1800s. Chicago's port operations on Lake Michigan competed with—and even surpassed in arrivals and departures- oceanic ports like New York City and San Francisco. This is an impressive fact, made even more so when one considers that Chicago experienced a weather-shortened shipping season that was only eight months long, whereas coastal harbors were open year-round. The Grosse Point Lighthouse symbolizes those early days of tall ships and maritime commerce on the Great Lakes, and for 65 years, acted as the lead navigational aid into Chicago's port. With the help of a grant received from the National Park Service, the history of this important landmark has been docu­ mented on video as an interpretive aid. educating people who visit the Grosse Point Lighthouse and who tour the facility. Although this has been done at many other historic sites around the country, the Located on the coast of Lake Michigan in Grosse Point project took advantage of In addition, for archival purposes, it has Evanston, III., the Grosse Point Light Station is one of nine National Historic Landmark recent advances in technology. greater durability than standard video, lighthouses. Photograph courtesy of the Lighthouse Park High-definition video was selected for making it a more desirable choice for his­ District of Evanston the documentation project because it pro­ toric sites and museums. Finally, while format while working with the National duces an extremely high quality image that more expensive than standard video, high- Geographic Society. is easily converted to any other video for­ definition video approaches the visual char­ Thanks to high-definition video, the mat, and even to film. Indeed, the image acteristics of film without the cost, making beacon of light from Grosse Point's tower quality and versatility of the medium is so it an excellent choice for projects that arc appears as crystal clear on wide screen TV good that no less a technical camera wizard on a tight budget. Hie project was man­ as it is on a cloudless summer night, bright­ than George Lucas is using high- definition aged by Scott Erlinder. a teacher and film ening the dark waters of Lake Michigan. video almost exclusively in the next install­ maker at nearby Northwestern University, Donald J. Terras is Dim tor of the Lighthouse ments of his "Star Wars" films. who first used the high-definition video Park District of Evanston, III. 6 MICHIGAN partial rebuilding along the entire perime­ al and hardness with the original wall. ter. Sections were deemed unstable and. in "Archeologists and hydrologists excavat­ fact, a small portion of the wall collapsed ed and studied the fort's drainage system to Fort Mackinac in the fall of 1999. address water flow in and out of the fort." restoration project The project involved a complex crew of Armour said. "A crew painted the fort walls masons, carpenters, painters, archcolo- to their original white color. Wooden pal­ nears completion gists. engineers and architects, all working isades were removed and replaced by the By Timothy G. Putman in the presence of fort visitors. Work was carpenters, and wall caps restored to their further complicated by Mackinac Island's original appearance when covered with sec­ ore than three years ago. century-old ban on automobiles. Tire use tions of wood planking called 'fraising." Mackinac Island State Park of motor vehicles is limited to restricted "After all restoration projects are com­ MCommission began an exten­ areas, at specific hours, and is always at the pleted at Fort Mackinac, the fort as a whole sive $4.1 million project to repair the 221- mercy of passing horses that could easily will be in the best and most accurately year-old wall of Fort Mackinac. The be frightened by the noise. restored condition ever in its history," said restoration project should be completed Despite these hurdles, contractors are Director Carl R. Nold. "We are very grate­ before the May 2002 start of the Mackinac completing the restoration project on ful to Chairman Dennis O. Cawtborne and Island tourist season. schedule. "We are very pleased with the the Mackinac Island State Park Fort Mackinac was built by British efficiency and punctuality of the Fort Commissioners for approving the restora­ troops during the American Revolutionary Mackinac restoration projects." said tion project, to Governor Engler and the War. They chose Mackinac Island because Mackinac State Historic Parks Deputy Michigan legislature for financial support, its towering limestone cliffs provided tbc Director David Armour. "Everyone and to our staff and all project contractors fort with a commanding presence over the involved has been professional and good for the excellent work that has been done." strategic Mackinac Straits. The fort to work with." The Mackinac Island State Park changed hands several times and eventual­ The restoration remained true to the Commission governs four living history ly became a living museum and central historic fort's beginnings. Approximately parks and museums in the Straits ol attraction of Mackinac Island. Mackinac 90 percent of tbc stones were salvaged and Mackinac collectively known as Mackinac Island was designated a National Historic reused. Stones that were no longer struc­ State Historic Parks (MSHP): Fort Landmark in I960, and the designation turally sound were reused as rubble fill in Mackinac and Mackinac Island Slate Park was expanded in 2001. exterior walls. Masons even recreated a on Mackinae Island, and Colonial lite restoration was critical to the ongo­ two-and-a-half to three-foot bow in one of The limestone walls surrounding Fort Mackinac, ing preservation of the fort. A 1998 report the walls that was apparent in early photos. constructed between 1780 and 1812, have indicated that the massive rough limestone Replacement stones were obtained from a recently undergone restoration. The original NHL documentation has been updated to include all of walls required extensive restoration and nearby island to ensure compatible materi­ Mackinac Island and more than 440 contributing resources. Photograph by /Catherine Cederholm, courtesy of NHL Survey.

- Michilimackinac and Historic Mill Creek in Mackinaw City. The historic site muse­ ums are accredited by the American Association of Museums and are visited by 420.000 guests each summer from all 50 states and more than 60 countries. Mackinac Island and Colonial Michilimackinac are National Historic Landmarks. The parks are open daily mid- May through mid-October. Timothy G. Pidman is Public Relations and Marketing Officer, Mackinac Island State Park Commission.

NEW MEXICO

The Kit Carson House, constructed circa 1825, is a single-story U-shaped adobe structure. This Grant funding historic view of the building shows the exterior portal as it is to be restored. Photograph courtesy of preserves Taos Historic Museums, tnc Maria Josefa Jaramillo Maria Josefa Jaramillo Carson, wife of Kit Carson, was the primary resident of Carson's home the Kit Carson House. The home was purchased by Kit as a wedding gift for By Victoria Jacobson his young bride. Photograph courtesy of Taos and Mary Padilla Historic Museums, tnc

nown as the Kit Carson House Work crews repair the facade of Kit and Maria Josefa Jaramillo Carson's home. The project, National Historic Landmark, the completed in November 2001, was partially funded Ksmall adobe building a block from by a federal grant. Photograph by Victoria Jacobson the Taos plaza was really the home of remains were returned to Taos the follow­ Carson's wife. Maria Josefa Jaramillo. and ing year. A century later, the home became their eight children for 25 years. The a showcase museum. longest period of time Carson spent with This past year, the Kit Carson Home the family in the house was from January and Museum, leased and managed by Taos 1854 to June 18fil. when he was agent for Historic Museums from the Taos Masonic the Utcs. with headquarters in Taos. Lodge (Carson was a charter member of Carson's vocations kept him away from the parent lodge), received a National Park home much of the time, but bis family was Service grant of $ Hi. 100 that was to be always there waiting for him when he matched by $24,717 in non-federal funds. returned from his various trips as Indian This funding was applied to two projects: a Agent, fur trapper and Arm)' officer. Josefa historic structure report and building (whom Carson referred to as his beloved assessment, and the repair of the deterio­ "Chipita") was 15 when she and Carson rated exterior portal. were married on February 6, 1843. Family The project partnered NPS consultants. tradition has it that Carson purchased the Dale F. Zinn Architects, members of the house, built in 1825. as a gift for his beau­ Masonic Lodge, Rocky Mountain Youth tiful young bride. Corps interns, and the staff of the Kit Daughter of prominent New Mexican Carson Historic Museums. In-kind services historic structure report and again with families from the Rio Arriba region, it was from lodge members in the form of donat­ Peter Lcighton. Taos Museums facility Josefa who stayed at home in Taos and ed equipment and supplies were used in the manager, to restore the deteriorated portal. raised the children, six or possibly seven of restoration of the portal, which included A grand beam raising celebration occurred whom may have been bom in the house. consolidation of the original wood where last November near die completion of tbc The Carsons moved from Taos to possible and replacement in kind where the Challenge Cost-Share Grant project. Boggsville. Colorado Territory, in early wood was too deteriorated to be retained. Victoria Jacobson is a Historical Architect ami 18(i8. where they died within a month of The Youth Corps interns worked with Mary Padilla is a HABS/HAER Specialist with one another. Interred there initially, their Dale Zinn to measure the building for the the NPS Intennountain Support Office, Santa Ft: 8 VERMONT Ruilt in the Second Empire style in WASHINGTON 1871. the Athenaeum is a legacy of the Athenaeum Fairbanks family of St. Johnsbury. Vt. The Enhanced zoning family was the inventor and manufacturer undergoes facelift of the world's first platform scale. With its ordinance benefits By Lorna Higgs elaborate woodwork and spiral staircases, NHL town this public library and art gallery is remark­ he St. Johnsbury Athenaeum, des­ able for its architecture and first-class col­ By Gretcben Luxenberg ignated a National Historic lection of American paintings, including an he National Historic Landmark Landmark in 1996. has under- exquisite group of landscapes in the T town of Port Gamble on the gone .111 importanl and liighh visible build Hudson River style. Kitsap Peninsula of Washington ing project to repair and improve the build­ The restoration project was funded by a T state came into the limelight in 2000 when ing's front entrance. The work, which special legislative appropriation from the the Kitsap County Zoning Ordinance and began in October 2001 and concluded on 2001 Vermont Capital Construction Rill, a the county's comprehensive plan were pro­ December 31. 2001. included replacing Cultural Facilities grant, gifts from the Flint posed for amendment to accommodate cracked and uneven granite stairs, widen­ Family Fund, the Jane R. Cook Charitable new development in this privately owned ing the hazardous top step, restoring origi­ Trust, and the Athenaeum's Landmark town that, until 1995. was the nation's old­ nal light fixtures and leaning lamp poles, 8e Legacy Campaign. est continuously operating sawmill and replacing loosened pipe handrails, and Lorna Higgs is Administratwe Officer, lumber town. repaying the chipped and broken asphalt 67. Johnsbury Athenaeum, Vt. Port Gamble's sizeable infrastructure sidewalk with a brick pattern taken from was constructed beginning in the 1850s historic photographs. The project was com­ The little-altered St. Johnsbury Athenaeum has served as an art gallery and public and included a lumber mill, dozens of sin­ pleted under the direction of preservation library since its 1868-1873 construction. Their gle family residences and other living quar architect Jeff Raker of Mesick. Cohen. collection contains the original books and paintings endowed by Horace Fairbanks and ters for the mill's hundreds of employees, Wilson, and Raker in Albany. N.Y. The is considered the nation's oldest such as well as a gas station, theater, general work complied with architectural standards collection in its original condition. Their rehabilitation project was named a Save mercantile store and cemetery. Over the outlined in the Athenaeum's historic struc­ America's Treasures project by the National years. Port Gamble has lost buildings, and ture report. Trust for Historic Preservation in 1999. Photograph by Perry Viles, courtesy of NHL Survey pastoral open spaces are located where structures once stood. In 1995. the mill closed and. following HARS/HAER recor­ dation by the Columbia Cascades Support Office, was demolished. The formerly bustling town became a quiet backwater community designated as "rural" by the count) government. The remaining open spaces reflect the town in its declining years, not in its heyday as the thriving hub of a timber company which had tremen­ dous influence throughout the Pacific Northwest. Rceausc of the designation of "rural" for zoning purposes, the owners of the town were precluded from further development, since the state's Growth Management Act requires all intensive new development to occur within the boundaries of areas desig­ nated as "urban growth." Flic owners desired to reconstruct the pattern of settle­ ment that once was present along the now- abandoned streets in the company town. and to develop mixed uses where the extensive sawmill buildings once stood along the waterfront. Die proposed amendments to the zon­ ing ordinance would allow counties to des- 9 ignatc "national historic towns" further Oatlands land pmtbaie...contimitd from page I Fort l.fitl't'itit'ortb...coiittiiiii'it front page I defined as "national historic landmarks designated by the Secretary of the Interior" and following as closely as possible the and to develop comprehensive plans that original design and materials. However, would take into account the historic char­ the investigation from a structural engineer acter and resources for which these places revealed that most of the historic brick had were deemed nationally significant. These been burnt beyond its usability. If feasible, plans would provide the citizens of they would like to include salvaged bricks Washington state with an important tool to that retained their structural integrity. In preserve these towns while ensuring their preparation for this work, the Army is col­ long-term viability. It would allow counties Oatlands Plantation, designated an NHL in 1971, lecting photographs, plans and other his­ to adopt policies and development regula­ was constructed circa 1800 and currently operates toric documentation. A contract package tions for designated historic towns or dis­ as a house museum. A recent land acquisition has protected adjacent property from development. for an architecture/engineering firm and tricts that could include mixed uses and Photograph courtesy of National Register of Historic Places contractor is under development, and will densities based on the historic patterns of be put out for bid soon. the town. The amendments would also raise funds to complete the transaction. Hie fire was a terrible loss to the incorporate architectural controls to pro­ "In meeting this deadline, our board has Roman Catholic church members. Fort mote the preservation of the historic char­ made a strong statement about the impor­ Leavenworth, and the Leavenworth com­ acter of the towns. Any new regulations in tance of maintaining tbc rural character of munity. St. Ignatius Chapel was a part of these areas would preclude new urban or Oatlands' setting and preserving open the Fort Leavenworth National Historic- suburban sprawl. space for Loudoun (County) residents to Landmark district, and occupied a promi­ enjoy." Williams stated. The National Park Service went on nent location at the intersection of Pope record during the public hearings to say "We are heartened by the widespread and McClelland Avenues. The red brick that the sensitive redevelopment of the financial support this project has received." chapel, built in the Romanesque Revival open areas was consistent with interpreting said Dodson. style, boasted a rose window on the east and preserving the history of Port Gamble. He noted that several organizations, entry, and included the typical semi-circu­ It was also a means of ensuring that the including the vestry of the Church of Our lar arched window and door openings, and extant historic structures would remain Savior, the Mosby Heritage area, and the blind arcades. Square towers of differing viable. The NHL would not be adversely National Trust, as well as neighbors of heights flanked the entrance. The two-and- impacted by the new development because Oatlands. the entire Oatlands staff, board a-half story structure replaced an 1871 of the "checks and balances" incorporated members from Oatlands. Inc.. and tbc church that was torn down in 1885. into the amended ordinance. Jamestown Compact Land Trust, con­ The establishment of the earlier struc­ tributed funds to meet the February 28 The proposed amendments quickly ture resulted from the efforts of Fort deadline. made their way through the public process Leavenworth commander Gen. John Pope, and were enacted in the summer of 2000. "With this significant step, we advance the Archdiocese of Kansas City and the The NPS will continue to work with the our goal of preserving the historic Route L5 subscription of Fort Leavenworth parish­ owners of Port Gamble, assisting them in corridor and Loudoun County's rural her­ ioners. The chapel was named after the redevelopment strategy proposed for itage." Dodson added. Ignatius of Loyola, the Spanish soldier- this nationally significant historic town. Oatlands Plantation is a 261-acre site saint who founded the Jesuit Order. Grtichen Lu.xenberg is a Historian with the owned by the National Trust for Historic Within two decades of its construction. St. XPS Columbia Cascades Support Of fire, Seattle. Preservation and managed by Oatlands. Ignatius was surrounded by numerous res­ Inc. It is Loudoun County's leading his­ idential and recreational structures. The toric tourist attraction and hosts more than NHL Plaques predominantly two-story, red brick build­ 60.000 visitors annually. The Jamestown Following National Historic Landmark ings reflect Classical influences and bring designation and at an owner's request, the Compact Land Trust. Inc. was founded visual cohesion to the area. National Park Service provides, free of charge, in 2000 by conservationist Magalen O. one bronze plaque identifying the resource as In contrast, the Fort Leavenworth NHL Bryant to work toward saving historic rural an NHL. district includes a wide variety of building landscapes along the Route 15 and Route One plaque is provided per NHL designation. types and uses, reflective of the fort's long 50 corridors in Virginia. However, if the plaque is missing from your occupation and diverse history. Fort property or your property is located in a Vicki Ben/lure coordinates public relations for historic district and you would like an Leavenworth received national recognition individual plaque, the NPS would be pleased Oatlands Plantation. in I960 for its associations with early-19th- to assist you with the wording of the plaque century U.S. military history and westward and to facilitate the order through the manufacturer. For more information, contact Visit our web site: expansion. A revised 1995 draft NHL the NHL staff in your NPS regional office. http://www.cr.nps.gov/nhl nomination further identifies the signifi­ cance of the fort for its ability to represent 10 The St. Ignatius Chapel at Fort Leavenworth was constructed in 1889. Fort Leavenworth has been continuous operation as a military installation since 1827. Photograph by Jerry Lamb, courtesy of NHL Survey. the themes of exploration and settlement, education, architecture, community plan­ ning and development, and ethnic heritage. In continuous military occupation since the time of its establishment. Fort Leavenworth has been identified as perhaps the most significant military post in the Trans-Mississippi West. The fort was estab­ lished in 1827 as a frontier outpost to pro­ tect caravans on the Santa Fe Trail, and later played a major role in the Mexican War. the Border and Civil Wars, and the Plains cam­ paigns against American Indian nations. Fort Leavenworth was also the base for many exploring expeditions in the West. It became the temporary capital of the new Territory of Kansas in 1854. In 18(i6. one of the first African-American Regular Army units was organized at the fort. In 1874. the post became the site of the U.S. Army"s central military prison, and contin­ ued to serve in this capacity from 1877 until 1896. and again from 1906 to the present. The fort has also played a crucial role in the professionalism of the U.S. Army through its role in military education. Dena Sanjord is an Architectural Historian ; < •//// the NPS Midwest Regional Office, Omaha, Neb.

Smoke continues to billow out of the chapel's devastated interior. Although investigators recovered many of the chapel's religious items, the full impact of the loss has yet to be evaluated. Among the items lost was a new $35,000 organ, installed in October 2001. Photograph courtesy of the NPS Midwest Regional Office

Technical Preservation Assistance

Looking for guidance on your rehabilitation, repair and maintenance projects?

Check out the NPS Technical Preservation Services web site

http://www2.cr.nps.gov/tps

The site provides technical preservation assistance on a variety of issues, including 41 Preservation Briefs (on topics ranging from masonry to accessibility to roofing materials), rehabilitation guidance, a discussion of the Secretary of the Interior's Standards for the Treatment of Historic Properties, and a link to the Federal Historic Preservation Tax Incentives program, as well as information on obtaining copies of available TPS publications.

I I national historic trails. NPS NEWS School desegregation Members are selected from among Six new members United States citizens and arc appointed to study serve a term no longer than four years. leads to lesson plan named to the They have demonstrated their commit­ National Park System ment to the mission of NPS and possess By John H. Sprinkle, Jr. outstanding expertise in specified profes­ Advisory Board sions and fields of study. Members repre­ n 1998. as part of the legislation estab­ sent various geographic regions, including lishing the Little Rock Central High n April 4. Secretary of the each of the administrative regions of the ISchool National Historic Site. Interior Gale Norton announced NPS. Congress directed the Department of the Oher appointment of six new mem­ The National Park System Advisory Interior to prepare a National Historic bers to the 12-mcmber National Park Board was established in 1935 to advise the Landmark theme study on racial desegre­ System Advisor)' Board. Secretary of the Interior on matters of the gation. Prepared by the NHL Survey, the The Board advises the Director of the National Park System and the Historic- theme study provides a context for identi­ National Park Service and the Secretary of Sites Act. When the Board's authorization fying and evaluating historic places that the Interior on issues concerning the expired in 1995, it was reestablished help us understand the school desegrega­ national parks and programs managed by administratively. The Board's charter has tion story. Published in 2000. the theme NPS. and also makes recommendations been extended to January 1. 2006. under stud) is available on the web at concerning National Historic Landmarks, legislative authority (Public Law 101-333). http://www.cr.iips.gov/histoiy/online book national natural landmarks, and proposed The new members are: s/nhl/school.htni. One of the untold stories is found in Honorable Jerry Hruby New Kent County. Va.. and the pioneering Mayor ol Brccksvillc. Ohio, adjacent to Cuyahoga Valley National Park: Ohio efforts of its African-American citizens to Michael Kammen, Ph.D. realize the promise of the Brown V. Board of Professor of History and Culture. Cornell University Eduuition decisions. Hie 1908 Green v. New past president. Organization of American Historians: California Kent County decision defined the standards Janet Snyder Matthews, Ph.D. by which the Court judged whether a vio­ Florida State Historic Preservation Officer lation of the U.S. Constitution had been Director. Florida Division of Historical Resources advisor emerita. National Trust for Historic Preservation: Florida remedied in school desegregation cases. After Green, more than a decade of massive Jake Louis (Jay) Parmer II Principal Managing Director. American Strategics. Inc. (public affairs consulting firm) resistance to school desegregation in the expert in corporate public affairs pertaining to local, state and federal issues: Nevada South, from 1955 through 1964. was replaced by an era of massive integration, Daniel Ritchie Chancellor. University ol Denver from 1968 through 1973. as the Court previously. Chairman and CEO ofWcstinghou.se Broadcasting Corporation: Colorado placed an affirmative duty on school boards to integrate schools. The Green deci­ Douglas Wheeler Hogan \ Hanson LLP (Environmental Section) sion is considered the most significant pub­ former Secretary of California Resources Agency: Washington. D.C. lic school case decided by the Supreme Court since the Brown cases. TTic New Kent Members continuing their terms unhide: and George W. Watkins schools illustrate Margaret L. (Margie) Broivn the typical characteristics of a southern former senior vice president. Cook Inlet Region. Inc: Alaska rural school system that achieved token Robert S. Chandler desegregation following Brown and stand as retired. National Park Service: California symbols to the modern Civil Rights Sylvia A. Earle, Ph.D. Movement to expand the rights of black cit­ explorer in residence. National Geographic Society: Washington. D.C. izens in the United States. Shirley Mahaley Malcom, Ph.D. Having identified the significance of the head. Directorate for Education and Human Resources Programs. Green case, the National Park Service, in American Association for the Advancement of Science: Washington. D.C. cooperation with the New Kent County Gary Paul Nabhan, Ph.D. Board of Education, nominated the New director. Center for Sustainable Environments. Northern Arizona University: Arizona Kent and Watkins Schools as NHLs. The "thomas B. Williams properties were designated as National former Democratic staff director. Committee on Energy and Natural Resources. Historic Landmarks on August 7. 2001 by U.S. Senate: Virginia the Secretary of the Interior. A copy of this

II REGIONAL NEWS Workshop explores cultural landscape issues By Jill Cowley

hat is the range of types of cultural landscapes suitable Wfor designation as National Historic Landmarks? What are some of the different cultural perspectives on caring for the future of cultural landscapes? What special issues are involved in the nomina­ tion of cultural landscapes as NHLs? Do The New Kent (above) and George W. Watkins Schools, were at the heart of the desegregation controversy in the 1960s, sparking a suit by black students and ultimately, a seminal Supreme Court decision. Prior to nominations for places interpreted as land­ integration. New Kent served white students and Watkins served black students; both rural New Kent scapes differ from other NHL nomina­ County, Va., schools educated elementary through high school students. New Kent and Watkins were constructed in phases, beginning in 1930 and 1950 respectively. Photographs courtesy of NHL Survey tions? These and other related questions were addressed by a group of 40 cultural land­ scape specialists, community representa­ tives, National Park Service and State Historic Preservation Office staff, and interested individuals from throughout the state of New Mexico at the New Mexico National Historic Landmark Cultural Landscapes Workshop, held February 28. 2002 near Santa Fe. The workshop was organized and moderated by cultural land­ scapes and NHL staff in the NPS Intermountain Support Office. Santa Fc. Workshop objectives included the dis­ cussion of the NHL designation process and eligibility criteria: a discussion of how to describe and evaluate cultural land­ scapes: and a discussion of how to approach the nomination of New Mexico nomination will be available soon at Teaching with Hislorit Plates is a nationally cultural landscapes. http://www.cr.nps.gov/nhl/NOM.htm, recognized NPS program that collects and Ernest Ortega, superintendent of the National Park Service involvement in distributes lesson plans for secondary NPS Intermountain Support Office. Santa the recognition of these schools did not school teachers and other educators. Fe. and Elmo Baca. New Mexico's state his­ stop with the preparation of a nomination. Written by Jody Allen. Brian toric preservation officer, provided intro­ Teaming with the New Kent County Board Daughcrity. and Sarah Trembanis. Ph.D. ductory remarks. Ortega stressed cultural of Education and the Department of candidates at the College of William and diversity and the need for community History at the College of William and Man-, with assistance from Frances Davis. involvement, and noted that the cultural Man-, the NPS successfully applied for a Na Dana Smith, and Megan Walsh, class of landscape approach enables a return to the 2001 African-American heritage mini-grant 2002. New Kent High School, the lesson basic heritage preservation and interpreta­ from the Virginia Foundation for the plan is currently in preparation for publica­ tion concept. Baca reminded the attendees Humanities and Public Policy. The purpose tion on the Teaching with Historic Places web that the workshop location was very close of the grant was to increase the level of site at http://www.cr.nps.gov/nr/twhp. to the house of the late John Brinkcrholf public recognition for the Green case within John H. Sprinkle, Jr., is the Supervisor)' Jackson, a leading proponent of vernacular Virginia and across the nation by preparing Historian for the National Historic Landmarks landscapes, and noted that cultural land­ a 'leachin» with Hislorit Plaou lesson plan. Survey. scapes arc living history. '3 change over time: continued use as key to preserving the meaning of and motivation to care for landscapes: the ability of preser­ vation to include living traditions: compar­ ing "preservation" with securing and sus­ taining peoples relationship with the past and with their land: and the need to under­ stand minority views of preservation. Participants developed recommenda­ tions for specific potentially nationally sig nificani landscapes in New' Mexico, as well as a range of ideas for community involve­ ment. This information will be used to develop NHL cultural landscape project ideas and nomination priorities. Jill Cowley is an Historical Landscape Architect, and leads the Intcnnountain Region Abo, located in the Salinas Pueblo National Monument, is one of many cultural landscape properties Cultural Landscapes Program with the NPS designated as National Historic Landmarks. The site was occupied from late prehistoric times through the Inlermoitntain Support Office, Santa Fe. Spanish occupation. This 1940 view also reveals the ruins of the 1630s San Gregario de Abo Mission. Photograph by George Rant, courtesy of NHL Survey.

Participants provided a variety of cul­ landscapes. Representatives from The tural perspectives on cultural landscapes Georgia O'Kceffe Foundation described and how best to retain their historic and the process of nominating the Georgia Southeast Region uses other special qualities while also sustaining O'Kceffe House and Studio complex as an NPS grants associated communities. Members ol and NHL. and how NHL status has influenced representatives from Native American their management of the property. to fulfill NHL needs communities indicated that within Pueblo Discussion issues were numerous and By Mark R. Barnes communities, it is sometimes belter to let included the following: the merits of dif­ nature takes its course rather than to inter­ ferent preservation approaches such as n the early 1990s. Paul Hawke. then vene in the name of preservation. Tfiey "pickling." preservation, and transforma­ with the National Register Programs also described how the Pueblo of Zuni tion of cultural landscapes, and how an Division of the NPS Southeast have developed a workable solution to approach should be selected: landscapes as I Regional Office, undertook a major effort maintaining the traditional character of the dynamic and constantly changing to identify the owners and contacts for Pueblo while accommodating contempo­ resources; the landscape as part of a com­ ever)- National Historic Landmark in the rary housing needs. munity, and the need to keep associated Southeast Region. This information was A number of participants from Hispanic communities alive; the need to address digitized to produce address labels to mail communities expressed concern over the realities, rather than romanticizing history: inquiries regarding the status of NHLs to ongoing disappearance of rural Hispanic historic themes as themes that unify every owner or contact and to make the monitoring of NHLs for the NPS annual The Glorieta Pass Battlefield, southeast Report to Congress more efficient. of Santa Fe, was the Building on this effort, the NRPD site of a March 1862 battle between the began a detailed, year-long review of the Union and Confederate documentation in all of the NHL files in armies. The previous month, a 2,500-man the office. This produced a "fact sheet" on company of evciy NHL in the Southeast, which noted Confederate Texans had marched through the NHLs location, owner/contact, date ol the Rio Grande valley designation, plaque status, last NPS visit. in an effort to reach Denver, but the battle NHL significanec and theme, threats, and ended their crusade. The site of the photographic coverage. Confederate wagon It also included a "needs" category, park is seen in this 1959 view. Photograph by which typically noted the need for a site AH Schroeder. courtesy of visit, the need to obtain current photos or NHL Survey. slides, or the need to assess the adequacy of the documentation in the NHL nomina- <4 N-H-L B-I-T-S B-Y-T-E-S Autumn 2002 Call for photographs

deadline lease review the information on your NHL at the NHL web site http://www.cr.nps.gov/nhl. so that the information remains current. Also, forward eaders are invited to submit short P current photographs of your property—the goal is to provide two photographs of each articles, which will be included as R property on the web site. High-resolution photographs (preferably jpg format) and com­ space allows. Articles should be no more ments may be sent to [email protected]. than 500 words and must include author's name and affiliation. Electronic- • text submissions are accepted. NHL Network editorial staff ma)- edit articles Did you know... ? for length and content. Statements of fact ... that there are currently 2341 National Historic Landmarks? or opinion are the responsibility of the • 66% (1,547) are open to the public. • 48% (1.124) are privately owned. authors and do not necessarily reflect an • 13% (298) arc state owned. • 9% (204) are locally owned. opinion of or an endorsement by the edi­ • 8% (178) are federally owned. • 57% (1.337) are buildings. tors or the National Park Service. One image in cither photographic or slide for­ • 19% (436) are districts. • 14% (325) are sites. mat ma)- be included per article and • 10% (223) are structures, such as bridges, lighthouses, etc. must include caption and image credit. • Fewer than 1% are objects, such as boundary markers, etc. Photocopied or electronic images cannot • 137 landmarks are currently threatened by deterioration, damaging uses, incompatible be accepted. Images will not be returned. alterations or new construction, erosion, vandalism or looting. The deadline for submission of arti­ • 4 former landmarks lost their integrity and had their designation withdrawn in 2000. cles for the Autumn 2002 issue is • 43 National Historic Landmarks have received federal Save America's Treasures September 15. grants for preservation. • More than 90% of National Historic Landmarks are in good condition. Want to know more? Visit the NHL web site at http://www.cr.nps.gov/nhl.

tion. By sending out this "fact sheet" to Projects must be carried out jointly by the for NHLs. and the Southeastern academic owners. State Historic Preservation NPS and a partner, and must relate to an community. Officers, and selected NPS units as part of NPS program or activity. In addition to this very preliminary the annual monitoring of NHLs, the For the past two years, the NRPD has work on NHLs. Challenge Grants have NRPD has been able to maintain a high used Challenge Coat-Share Grants to pro­ also supported preservation students at the percentage of current NHL owners' and vide hinds to students at the preservation University of Memphis and the Savannah contacts' addresses, and a good sense of the departments of Savannah College of Art & College of Art & Design in updating and threats to NHLs in the region. 'ITic mail­ Design. Middle Tennessee State University, revising existing NHLs and drafting new ing to monitor NHLs takes place in and Georgia State University to conduct NHL nominations. This aspect of sup­ January of each year, followed by mailings site visits, obtain current photos and slides, porting preservation students in work on of the two annual issues of NHL Network and fill out simple information sheets on nationally significant properties has also and the Report to Congress, meaning that various NHL properties. provided many preservation students a the NRDP attempts to contact owners and To date, more than 25 percent of the required internship with a public agency. contacts for all the Southeastern NHLs at more than 400 NHLs in the Southeast In tbe Southeast Region, the use of least four times per year. Region have been visited by preservation Challenge Grants and the development of To meet the need to conduct site visits students. Tbis bas provided the NRPD good working relationships with academic- and perform outreach to NHL owners, the with updated files—including more than institutions has greatly enhanced the NRPD has turned to Challenge Cost-Share 2.000 photos and slides. 100 site informa­ NRPD's ability to work with NHL owners Grants. The Challenge Cost-Share Grant tion sheets, numerous brochures, and and contacts and to develop preservation Program was established in 1993 to stimu­ many corrections to the earlier "fact efforts for the same. late partnership opportunities between the sheets." However, the most significant Mark R. Barnes is Senior Archeologist, NPS and groups such as volunteer organi­ result has been the closer ties developed National Register Programs Division, NPS zations, universities, and property owners. between the NPS and the owners/contacts Southeast Regional Office, Atlanta. 'S NATIONAL HISTORIC; LANDMARKS Network

U. S. Department of the Interior, National Park Service, Heritage Preservation Services 1849 C Street, NW, Room NC200, Washington, D.C. 20240

IN THIS ISSUE:

NATIONAL NEWS: Six new members named to the National Park System Advisory Board 12 School desegregation study leads to lesson plan 12

REGIONAL NEWS: Workshop explores cultural landscape issues 13 Southeast Region uses NPS grants to fulfill NHL needs 14

STEWARDSHIP: Fort Leavenworth's St. Ignatius Chapel destroyed in December fire 1 Oatlands land purchase preserves open space 1 Stewardship News 3

BITS AND BYTES: Call for photographs 15