THE OTHER RIVIERA the hinterland between and THE OTHER RIVIERA The hinterland between Borgio Verezzi and Andora

“From up there on the narrow terrace of a towering mountain, I will look down over the sea; my body will be salt, the white of a sail or the yellow of a broom flower”. Strolling along the cobbled streets of the villages in the valleys between Andora and Borgio Verezzi, admiring the pale stone houses overlooking the sea, you’re reminded of the wonderful song by Joan Manuel Serrat and Gino Paoli, “Mediterraneo”. Down below white sails bob on the sea; up on the hills the air is tinged yellow with broom flowers and perfumed with ilex trees; the old walls are decorated with delicate blue Italian bellflowers (Campa- nula isophylla, the delight of many a botanist); the ridges are lined with centuries-old beech trees… then there are vineyards, olive groves, panoramas… All this is the other Riviera.

1 THE GREEN GOLD OF OUR VALLEYS

2 3 TASTING THE FLAVOUR OF SUN

4 5 THE COLOURS OF NATURE

6 7 The Borgio 200 metres on the sea I century b.C. that the VEREZZI Verezzi Theatre level; there are alleys, rough Ligures really Festival little squares, ancient appreciated snails and this Verezzi’s best-known wash-houses, San passion for gasteropods A village loved by poets cultural event is its Martino church with its has never stopped. Once theatre festival, held every Romanesque belfry … “Verezzi is best walked not from the street but from the rooftops, summer in the enchanting on July 22, Saint Mary and even a mill called Piazza Sant’Agostino. Magdalen’s Day, the which are not rooftops at all but small terraces, baked and bent by “Phoenician” for the the sun. An uneven expanse, with slight rises and falls, that takes International theatre families of Verezzi cooked companies perform technique used for its you from one dwelling to the next... The main door, the first flight snails; this tradition is amidst the town’s construction. All around of a broken staircase, reveal that some of them are elegant old ho- ancient low stone there are terrace- still alive thanks to the mes. On the ground floor, now... the donkey kicks its legs, on the buildings, with the cultivations with olives village festival for snails. first floor, pride of place is held by… an oil mill made of solid oak… church of Sant’Agostino trees, vineyards and The “snails cooked in the Everything in Verezzi is made of Finale stone: a hard, rosy stone… as a backdrop, whilst carobs; among the stones Verezzi style” is a recipe of the summer sunset the thresholds and the architraves, the niche with the statue of Our of the walls capers grow the most ancient Ligurian colours the sky. Nearby, and bloom; here you can Lady, the millstones...” (From “Postilla a Verezzi” by Camillo Sbarba- before and after the tradition. It requires a admire wide and warm ro, published by kind permission of Lina Sbarbaro). performance… long time to prepare and panoramas. Not far the it includes the aromatic pinewood of Caprazoppa herbs of the maquis, dry gives its dark green colour Four hamlets to the sunny and bright white wine and extra make one of the landscape. virgin olive oil. Most Beautiful Villages in Their names are Piazza, A village festival Poggio, Roccaro, Crosa: they are groups of the for snails so called “Saracen” The Roman historian houses on a hill of about Sallustio wrote in the

8 9 TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP

Verezzi Affittacamere Svegliarsi a Verezzi (rooms) via Poggio 11, Ph. 019 617447 348 7769438 www.svegliarsiaverezzi..it Agriturismo Cà du Gregorio via Ortari 12, Ph. 019 611952 www.agriturismocadugregorio.it Antica Osteria Saracena del Bergallo via Roma 17, Piazza Ph. 019 617783 www.hcaldana.com/ristorante_ verezzi/ Antica Società Caffè Teatro piazza Gramsci 1, Ph. 019 618086 www.caffeteatro.verezzi.it B&B A Creuza via Alla Chiesa 39, Ph. 333 4630112 [email protected] B&B Ca’ Rosa via Ortari 16, Ph. 019 612132 B&B L’Archivolto via Roccaro 6, Ph. 019 611820 www.archivolto.net B&B Le Terrazze del Borgo Antico via Del Salto 3/2 Ph. 328 8764719 B&B Luci sul Mare via Verezzi 20, Ph. 019 610221 www.lucisulmare.it Da U Ninnu (apartments) via Roma 16, Ph. 329 2955655 Ristorante American Bar Il Cappero via Roma 23, Piazza Ph. 019 610958 www.ilcappero.com Ristorante A Töpia via Roma 16, Piazza Ph. 019 616905 Ristorante Il Muma via Cava Vecchia 2 Ph. 019 610788 www.ilmuma.com Ristorante La Cantina dei 2 Amici via Roma 2, Piazza Ph. 338 7004505 Torre Antica Jazz Café piazza S. Agostino Ph. 019 610777 www.torreantica.net Torre dei Sassetti (music bar) via Barrili 12 Ph. 333 3129298

10 11 Museum was the first municipality in the THE INLAND AREA At the time of one of its kind opened in Maremola Valley. It has Charlemagne Italy. The monumental a history as an early The 2300 residents of clockwork parts exhibited industrial centre: the road OF Tovo San Giacomo live at the museum document along the valley floor in various hamlets in the over a century of work was known as Via della The valleys of Mount Carmo middle of the small but by the Bergallo family, Ferriera - the road to lush Maremola Valley. The nationally renowned the ironworks - because Green in some areas, rocky in others, Mount Carmo casts its own uni- valley is in the hilly inland artists and craftsmen ferrous minerals from Elba were processed in Isallo, que spell that has made it one of the area’s most attractive hiking de- area of Pietra Ligure, just who made clocks from a few kilometres from the 1860 to 1980. Their one of the hamlets further stinations - not least because of its 1389-metre drop straight to the sea. coast and the wooded clocks mark time on the uphill. The minerals were This majestic deity dominates the coast, the panorama from its sum- Melogno Pass that leads towers of several major transported here by mit extends towards the French Riviera, the Cinque Terre, the Apuan to the Bormida Valley. Italian cities such as mules from Pietra Ligure. Alps, Mount Rosa, the Lombardy plain and Mount Adamello. Countless Bardino Vecchio is an , , Bologna The ironworks operated torrents, including the Maremola and the Scarincio, flow through the ancient hamlet that may and Taranto. The local from 1730 until the mid- woods and countryside down towards the sea. date as far back as the vineyards yield excellent nineteenth century. The time of Charlemagne. The Pigato, Vermentino and lovely eighteenth-century church of San Giovanni Barbarossa, which are sanctuary of Santi Cosma boasts a Gothic bell tower ideal with traditional e Damiano is located with several “bacini”, dishes like snails and along the road leading to ceramic plates produced savoury pies. the Melogno Pass, and a by the Arabs. embedded popular country festival is in its walls. held here in September. The clock town The old Via della The modern Via The highlight of Tovo San Ferriera Ferrata Giacomo is in Bardino Magliolo, with its 800 Today the ironworks Nuovo: the Tower Clock inhabitants, is the other are gone, and instead

12 13 there is an “iron way”, a would sit on a stone Ranzi 1200-metre Via Ferrata seat and hand down A village overlooking (climbing trail) that his sentences. The seat the sea hikers and mountain is still there, but based A peaceful hillside hamlet climbers can take from on its appearance, the in the Pietra Ligure Cà dell’Erscia to Bric judge can’t have been district, Ranzi is a village dell’Agnellino, along the very comfortable! This with a Mediterranean air – Balzi Rossi coast. Along is a land of olive groves sunny and bedecked with the way adventurous and vineyards, and the flowers – and a stunning hikers cross a Tibetan town hall displays two view of the sea and the bridge stretched over a ancient stone measures, coast. Just up the hill deep canyon. This is an dating from 1606, that there is a stone “casella”, Alpine environment just were used for oil and the ancient nuraghe- a stone’s throw from the wine. In San Michele the shaped shelter used by sea. Those who are afraid castle that belonged to shepherds. From here of heights can “settle” the bishops of Albenga there are several trails that for a walk along the Terre and the Marquises Del cut through the dense Alte Trail, which starts in Carretto must have been Mediterranean maquis and intersects very impressive, judging covering the slopes of with the Alta Via dei from the ruins on top of Mount Carmo. Monti Liguri. The trail the cliff. The Romanesque leads to the Melogno Pass church of San Michele A star made of flowers (1028 meters high), along is also fascinating. Built On Corpus Christi Day a wooded ridge with a in the Middle Ages (the Ranzi is coloured by an marvellous view of the Longobards were very ancient tradition: the sea. Several nineteenth devoted to St ), “Ranzi star” decking with century military posts it was enlarged during flowers; in the striking stand guard along the the sixteenth century square of S. Concezione route. In the central fort, and there are remains of chapel, people realize there is an enormous fifteenth-century frescoes a round drawing with holly tree that is around inside. In the same square diameter of seven meters; 200 years old. there is Cà Comuna, the they change the scheme old Town Hall. every year but they always start from the centre to Back to the Middle deck it by hands with wild In the name of the Ages flowers. They use yellow law… At the end of July, the broom, white daisies, Jus Tenens was a village Palio dei Carri is held in violet orchids, pink of the Ligurian Ingauni San Michele square to canella, green heather tribe. Destroyed and then commemorate the battle and light blue hydrangea. rebuilt by the Romans as of 1448 between the The details of the a mansio on the Via Julia Del Carretto family and realization are made clear Augusta, it developed the Republic of , by the colour contrast. under the Longobards. which won after a long Today its 900 residents siege. Today this event Good wine for are divided between the is remembered with a everyone hamlets of San Lorenzo banquet of medieval At the middle of August, and San Michele. The dishes, and with shows, on the panoramic hill of court was located in San duels and music as the Madonnina di Ranzi, Lorenzo: once a month, entertainment. the Nostralino village the podestà of Pietra festival attracts lots of

14 15 tourists and gourmets. TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Museo dell’Orologio Trattoria L’Oste It is one of the first rural da Torre G.B. Bergallo di Campagna village festivals of Liguria, Tovo San Giacomo (Tower clocks Museum ) via Canova 29, as it was organized the Town Hall Ph. 019 637901 piazza Can. G. Folco Ph. 019 634102 Bardino Nuovo first time just after World www..tovo-san- giacomo.sv.it Ph. 019 648545 Wide War I and it is by Comune 019 637901 Giustenice now a fixed meeting in Affittacamere Casa Nobile www.comune.tovo-san- Town Hall Ph. 019 637145 the summer of Pietra (rooms) giacomo.sv.it www.comune.giustenice.sv.it Ligure and its area. via Roma 59, Ph. 333 6940547 Pizzeria Il Caminetto www.casanobilerooms.it via San Sebastiano 162 B&B L’Acacia Affittacamere Relais Bardino Nuovo via San Michele 3 Ca’ dei Frati (rooms) Ph. 019 648152 Ph. 335 1246303 località Villa dei Frati www.renzopizza.it [email protected] Ph. 019 68111 Rélais Il Casale B&B Mediterraneo [email protected] (spa and beauty) via D’Annunzio 2 Azienda Il Vecchio via Briffi 22, Bardino Vecchio Ph. 019 648861 Castagno Ph. 019 6375014 Il Mercatino (typical products) (farm, cheese) www.ilcasale.it piazza V. Veneto 2 via Portio 185, Ph. 019 648394 Ristorante Pizzeria Ph. 019 637153 B&B Claro de Luna Cà di Giurni Osteria di San Lorenzo via Rocca 34 via G.B. Accame 20 via Trieste 18bis Ph. 019 648409, 347 6946294 Ph. 019 648848 Ph. 019 6376703 www.clarodeluna.liguria.it Ristorante Tex Mex www.osteriasanlorenzo.it B&B La Corte del Gallo The Ranch Ristorante Agriturismo via Folchi 8/10 Bardino Vecchio piazza Umberto I Ai Serei Ph. 347 5964173 Ph. 349 8469852 via Serrati Inf. 11 B&B La Luna e Sei Soldi www.theranch.it Ph. 019 637176 via Bosi 3, Bardino Nuovo 347 1207919 Ph. 019 639225, 328 8738642 Ristorante Pizzeria Capalla www.lunaeseisoldi.it Magliolo via Besso 4, Ph. 019 637152 B&B Le Giare Town Hall Ph. 019 634004 www.capalla.it via Rocca 4, Ph. 019 648372 www.comune.magliolo.sv.it www.mindrevolver.com/legiare B&B Michela Affittacamere La Tana Ranzi via Nari 18, Bardino Nuovo del Tasso (rooms) Casa e Appartamenti Ph. 019 648200, 338 4659377 via Inavecchia 20, Canova per Vacanze Casa Santi [email protected] Ph. 339 7225804 (apartments) Casa Vacanze Bosio 347 1268455 via Cassanello 41 (apartments and restaurant) www.bbtanatasso.it Ph. 019 627728 via San Sebastiano 71 B&B Cà di Carobina 339 3809914 Bardino Nuovo via Canova 5 www.casasanti.it Ph. 019 637227 Ph. 347 8416333 Circolo Giovane Ranzi www.casavacanzebosio.com www.bbcadicarobina.it (club) piazza della Chiesa Frantoio Rocca Danilo Hotel Ristorante Picina www.ranzi.it (oil mill) via Ferrari, Bardino via Mazzini 17, Ph. 019 634146 Hotel Cà Ligure Vecchio Ph. 019 648102 Pizzeria La Genovese via Concezione 10 Hotel Ristorante Bergallo via Mazzini 31 Ph. 019 625181 piazza San Carlo 10, Bardino Ph. 019 634282 www.caligure.it Vecchio, Ph. 019 637226 Rifugio Alpino Heidi Ristorante Il Capanno www.bergallo.net (alpine chalet) via Melogno 21 via Cappelletta 63 Hotel Ristorante Ph. 019 64193, 333 6042341 Ph. 019 625198 Franzone www.altaviadeimontiliguri.it – www.ristoranteilcapanno.com (typical products) [email protected] Trattoria Pizzeria piazza Umberto I 11 Ristorante La Baita Da Piero Ph. 019 637133 via Melogno 3 piazza della Chiesa 50 www.hotelfranzone.it Ph. 019 64180 Ph. 019 625184

16 17 Verzi (more frequent in winter m), with stone houses Rural Liguria and spring), the panorama that have terraced roofs The fact that the people seems endless, sweeping to collect rainwater, and of Liguria are “country from the Maritime Alps to several lovely buildings folk” at heart is clear Mount Monviso, Mount (including the town hall) the moment you head Rosa, Mount Adamello, with decorated façades towards Verzi, one of the Genoa, the Apuan Alps, painted in lively colours. hamlets of near the Elba, Corsica and the The square, where the verdant lower slopes of Mount Carmo. The sea French Riviera. But when town hall and parish is just around the bend the wind gusts in from the church are located, also and yet, out of sight, it is sea, the ridge disappears has a beautiful well. The also out of mind. This is a in a fog worthy of the town is surrounded by land of farmhouses, small Po valley. A tangle of Mediterranean maquis, cultivated fields and quiet secondary trails connects which thrives alongside country villages. the Alta Via to the coast vegetable patches, and the valley floor. One orchards and vineyards. The Alta Via dei Monti of the most intriguing And on the horizon, the Liguri and Mount is the Terre Alte Trail, sapphire sea of Loano. Carmo which crosses the Pietra The star of Ligurian hiking and Loano valleys. At an An ancient monastery is the Alta Via dei Monti altitude of 1389 metres, dedicated to St Peter Liguri, a superbly marked Mount Carmo is one of the It is well worth hiking up hiking trial with 43 stages, main summits along the the trail towards Mount spanning the watershed Alta Via – and indubitably Ravinet to see San Pietro from Ventimiglia, near the most scenic. As you dei Monti (altitude 900 m), THE VARATELLA the French border, to gaze down from the top whose present state does Ceparana, close to La of this mountain, you can not convey the importance AND RIO NIMBALTO Spezia. The trail runs easily perceive the true of this monastery for through a spectacular essence of Liguria. It is first a period of 600 years sequence of forests, rocky and foremost a land of during the Middle Ages. VALLEYS summits and meadows – mountains rather than a What is striking is its silent with almost no traces of maritime region, a land of ambience: scenic on civilisation. You’ll come forests and boulders whose sunny days, melancholy Caves, hermitages and… across nineteenth-century skies are crossed by wind- when the Scirocco wind military outposts, stone borne eagles. blows and the coastline This Alpine landscape, which resembles the Dolomites in many re- “caselle” that look like below is swallowed up spects, is as popular with the people of the twenty-first century as small nuraghi and were by fog. Today there is it was with our prehistoric ancestors of the Palaeolithic. It is easy used by shepherds as a solitary, picturesque to understand why: just look at the view of the mountains, the sea shelters during bad Buizan, prufümmu de church in the woods, and and the slopes dotted with olive groves… These valleys rising from weather, a handful of zærmi it is the offshoot of the and Loano may be small, but they are in- refuges where you can Translated from the monastery of San Pietro dubitably among the most stunning in Liguria. take shelter or even spend local dialect, this means in Varatella, founded in the night, crucifixes on “Boissano, the scent of the ninth century under the tallest peaks, chapels olive trees in bloom”. In Charlemagne. As legend and little churches, and fact olive trees characterise would have it, St Peter small hotels near the the landscape of the low stopped here during mountain passes, which hill by the sea where his journey to Rome are crisscrossed by roads Boissano was built. Nearly and built Liguria’s first rising from the coast and 2000 people live in the church. The monastery descending to the plains. ancient and modern held enormous economic On sunny days when the hamlets on the slopes and political power in north wind is blowing of Mount Ravinet (1061 about the year 1000. The

18 19 monks from San Pietro Ursus spaeleus (cave bear) you will find everything civilised the region and bones. Nearby there is a you want to know about owned property between corridor with footprints left Toirano. Albenga and the Langhe by bears and the men who area. They also helped to hunted them, and the hall The Toirano Pass improve the region’s living of mysteries, where our There is more than narrow conditions by promoting ancestors hurled clay balls mediaeval streets and agricultural and industrial against the cave walls, for prehistoric caves. The development, introducing some social or religious municipality of Toirano olive trees and vines reason that has yet to be rises – or rather, climbs and building flour and understood. The itinerary – up the Varatella Valley oil mills. The monastery then goes to the lower to Giogo di Toirano (the was abandoned in 1495 grotto of Santa Lucia, with Toirano Pass, altitude 807 and fell into ruin. All that its remarkable stalactites m), which links the area to remains today is a little and stalagmites, and the the Bormida Valley, on the church that, every year upper one, with a fifteenth- Po side of the Riviera delle on 1st May, is visited by a century sanctuary that Palme. Steep, winding procession of the faithful was carved into the rock and full of hairpin bends, from Toirano. face and has a miraculous this 15-kilometre road is spring. St Lucy is the breathtaking with vistas of patron saint of those with the barren, rocky valley and Toirano eye trouble. of the Ligurian Sea, from A town with 12,000 Loano to Corsica. It is well years of history Narrow streets and worth the trip to enjoy the Toirano is one of the museums scenery, visit the mountain oldest towns in Italy. Its And then we came out town of Carpe halfway up population of 2000 boasts to see the stars again… the road, and then hike a history dating back at After visiting the caves, to the summit of Mount least 12,000 years. How why not wander through Carmo or go mushroom many caves are there in the the mediaeval town of picking in the woods on Varatella Valley? As many Toirano that was recently the ridge overlooking the as fifty, and some of them awarded the “Orange Bormida Valley. are where the prehistoric Flag” by the Italian Touring Ligurians lived, prayed and Club. The Byzantines The Wine and Oil Road socialised – as early as the fortified the town during The road less travelled… last Ice Age. the sixth century, and through a landscape of what remains of the walls green olive trees and Caves of witches and are two gates, the tower yellow clusters of ripe saints houses, the moat and the grapes. This is the Strada The Toirano caves are battlemented tower that del Vino e dell’Olio (Wine among the most important is now the bell tower of and Oil Road) that sets out in Italy, and they are the church of San Martino. from the olive groves of famous around the The mediaeval threearched the province of Imperia, world. They were used as bridge over the Varatella is crosses these valleys, to dwellings by Palaeolithic virtually intact. The town wind its way through the peoples, and for shelter by also has brightly coloured area’s most picturesque cave bears. Today visitors twentieth-century murals, hill towns, with stone oil can take a 1300-metre as well as the Val Varatella mills and row after row tour through the caves. Ethnographic Museum, of grapevines. Taggiasca The Grotta della Bàsura housed in the ancient and, above all, Pignola (Witch Cave) is home to stables of the Palazzo Del are the olive varieties used the bear cemetery, with Carretto. At the museum, to make “Riviera Ligure

20 21 del Ponente Savonese” Trekking through the cliffs. This is a rough, wild inhabitants of the hamlet: DOP extra-virgin olive oil, mountains: the Terre and tormented area, but it the majestic castle-fortress which has a slightly bitter Alte Trail is ideal for rock climbing. that dominates the village flavour with an aftertaste The Terre Alte Trial leads Since the rocks are located and valley. According to reminiscent of pine nuts. trekkers from Toirano up at an altitude of just 150 to local legend, wrongdoers Pigato and Vermentino to Melogno Hill (altitude 460 metres above sea level, who managed to cling to are the kings of the local 1028 m), through the climbing is also possible in the bars on its windows vineyards: Pigato owes its mountain refuge of Pian winter. The Municipality were acquitted of their name to the word pigau, delle Bosse (altitude 841 of Toirano has set up a crimes. Who knows? which means “stained” in m) in the Upper Nimbalto project that includes ten Maybe this is the origin of the local dialect. Pigato is a Valley, and passing by cliffs and 225 different the term “everybody out”! white wine that is perfect the Maremola Valley. At climbing routes, for a throughout the meal, Melogno Hill, the trail range of different levels of Romantic ruins, with a distinctive musky merges with the Alta difficulty, from the rock crafty cats bouquet, straw-yellow Via dei Monti Liguri – gym to very demanding It looks like a Romantic colour, and a dry, slightly the “motorway” of the climbing facilities. This painting of ancient Roman bitter palate. Vermentino is Ligurian mountains – and is a fascinating way to ruins set in a clearing, with a dry white with a delicate the main road connecting enjoy Alpine sports just a young shepherds playing bouquet. It is ideal as an Finale with the Upper few kilometres from the the flute. We’re talking aperitif, but it can also Bormida Valley, crossing sea: the perfect way to about the ancient Burgus be served with Ligurian the marvellous beech forest combine a seaside holiday Plebis of , built seafood appetisers and fish of . It is divided with the opportunity to at the foot of the castle. It dishes, as well as frittata into three stages: Toirano- experience the “Ligurian was abandoned because and vegetable dishes with Balestrino-Toirano, which Dolomites”. of its unstable terrain, and cheese. Both wines should takes about 3 1/2 hours; is not open to visitors due be served chilled but not Toirano-Pian delle Bosse, to the risk of collapse. icy cold. about 4 1/2 hours; and Balestrino Silent and bucolic, it has a Pian delle Bosse-Melogno, The Marquis’ castle disquieting air to it, even The “Gumbi” Festival about 6 hours. After your The tangle of when viewed from above In the nineteenth century trek, if you still have plenty administrative structures without setting foot into it. Toirano had 25 oil mills, of energy left and have that governed the cities Like true Roman ruins, it is known locally as “gumbi”. fallen in love with the and towns of Liguria, both full of cats that appear and There were industrial mountain scenery, you within and outside the then disappear, ghosts or water-powered gumbi, and can continue along the boundaries of the Republic patron saints of the town smaller domestic gumbetti Alta Via to Melogno Hill, of Genoa, also included the and its history. driven by donkeys. The a three-hour hike through independent marquisate “Gumbi” Festival, held at the quiet woods along the of Balestrino. It was a Trails and sanctuaries the beginning of August, is ridge of the Upper Bormida “concentric state”, that is, Balestrino is part of the the most popular event in Valley. a completely autonomous Environmental Area Toirano. Visitors can stroll entity surrounded by the of Poggio Grande, through the village and Climbing near Toirano Genoese republic. The Bava which encompasses the taste oil, wine and farinata, In the Varatella Valley, family, followed by the Del municipalities, territories and purchase locally made not far from the town Carrettos, ruled this small and trails of the Varatella items at the crafts show. of Toirano, there are feudal state until 1796, and Valleys. These Typical Toirano products numerous Dolomia rock when Napoleon’s soldiers hills are covered with include focaccia di San towers, characterised wiped it off the map after scenic trails that are perfect Pietro, a variety of the by impressive karst pillaging the town and for trekking and mountain Genoese pandolce cake, formations. The erosion oppressing the population. biking. The Terre Alte Trail soft torrone nougat, and of limestone has created Nevertheless the small goes through the historical orange wine, which is wine natural caverns, modelling but long-lived marquisate and archaeological sites fermented with orange the stone and creating of Balestrino left a legacy in the valley, and there peel. evident and intriguing to the modern-day 500 are also numerous spots

22 23 for paragliding. The TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Agriturismo Monte Acuto Pizzeria Toulà via Mainero 47, Ph. 0182 989283 modern sanctuary of regione Leade 8 Ristorante Agriturismo Monte Croce is located Verzi Ph. 0182 989097 Ca’ di Sappi in an extraordinarily Pizzeria L’Agricola 340 9823393 www.aziendaagrituristica via Certosa 25, Ph. 0182 921887 scenic setting, on top of via Verzi 30, Ph. 019 670633 Rifugio Pian delle Bosse monteacuto.com 338 3957948 a 760-metre hill. On 5 (Refuge alpin) B&B Ai Gatti di Barescione www.agriturismocadisappi.it October 1949, Our Lady Ph. 019 671790 via Cavour 27, Barescione Ristorante Al Ravanello appeared here to nine- www.cailoano.com/italia/ Ph. 0182 989525 Incoronato year-old Caterina Richero. rifugioIT.htm 333 3554933 via G.B.Parodi 27 The sanctuary can be www.aigattidibarescione. Ph. 0182 921991 reached on foot or by car, Boissano wordpress.com www.alravanelloincoronato.it via a road that branches Town Hall Ph. 0182 98010 B&B Domo de Aste Ristorante Il Cappello off from the main road www.comune.boissano.sv.it via G.B. Parodi 8/1 di Guguzza via Polla 22, Ph. 0182 922074 to Castelvecchio di Rocca Agriturismo Peter Pan Ph. 347 4374201 www.domodeaste.it www.ilcappellodiguguzza.com Barbena. The nineteenth- (only accomodation) via Coste Rosse 8 B&B Il Giardino degli Aranci Ristorante Pizzeria century fort of Poggio Ph. 347 5001050 via Balestrino 4 La Rosa dei Venti Grande, located nearby, www.agriturismopeterpan.it Ph. 0182 98422 via Polla 42, Ph. 0182 98574 also affords a lovely view. B&B Agrodolce [email protected] www.ristoranterosadeiventi.org via Marici 143/2 B&B Profumo di Dolci Ristorante Scià Bacana Cooking the products Ph. 0182 98675 via G.B. Parodi 24/5 via P. Mainero 44 of kitchen gardens and agrodolce.xoom.it Ph. 338 3195953 Ph. 0182 989140, 347 7839830 terrace-cultivations B&B Il Mandarancio www.profumodidolci.it www.sciabacana.it Even if the restaurants via Carre 12 B&B Relais The One Spaghetteria Pizzeria Il Portico of the hinterland often Ph. 333 4102577 via Cavour 43, Ph. 0182 921838 338 3140169 piazza della Libertà 10 prepare good fish dishes www.ilmandarancio.it B&B Luce d’Oro www.relaistheone.com Ph. 0182 989769 (as they are required by via Losano 55 Bar Enoteca dei Capitani tourists), the typical food Ph. 0182 98794 (wine shop) Balestrino of the hamlets on the hills www.bblucedoro.it piazza San Martino 13 Town Hall Ph. 0182 988004 is a “country” cooking Casa e Appartamenti per Ph. 349 4919100 www.comune.balestrino.sv.it that takes its ingredients Vacanze Villa Graziella Bar Pasticceria B&B Cavigiotti da Ileana from the kitchen gardens (apartments) Gelateria Tasso via Groa 3, Ph. 0182 988140 realized on the terraces via Rive 41, Ph. 0182 989511 (pastries and ice creams) B&B Il Poggio among olive trees. In this Ristorante A Funtanetta piazza Rosciano 6 loc. Poggio Vecchia via Piemonte 11 way you obtain tasty salad piazza Gilberto Govi 6 Ph. 0182 98706 Brasserie Pizzeria Visconti Ph. 0182 988020 pies based on chards, Ph. 0182 989635 Ristorante Pizzeria via Urivei 15/B Frantoio Lotus artichokes, spinach, Le Querce Ph. 0182 989104 (oil mill, oil and organic products) courgettes and flavoured via Rive 3, Ph. 0182 989229 Frantoio Polla Nicolò via Panizzi 10, Ph. 0182 988078 wild herbs picked in the Trattoria Pizzeria (oil mill) via alle Mura 1 Hotel Ca’ de Berna fields. The same vegetables Lo Schicchero Ph. 019 668027 e Ristorante Pastorino and herbs are used for via Cappella Nuova 11 www.oliopolla.it via Lucifredi 6 e via Mazzini 4 the stuffing of ravioli – Ph. 0182 98511 Grotte di Toirano Ph. 0182 988166, 988109 excellent to start a meal Strada Provinciale per www.cadeberna.it – and can be a side dish Toirano / Calizzano Hotel Ristorante Cecchin via Provinciale 1 for the rabbit “alla ligure”, Town Hall Ph. 0182 989909 Ph. 0182 98062 www.toiranogrotte.it Ph. 0182 988001 that is stewed with olives. www.comune.toirano.sv.it Affittacamere Ristorante Le Delizie del Frantoio Residence Belbea A perfect meal cannot Mare e Monti di S. Rosciano Tourist Resort end without a slice of (rooms and restaurant) (oil mill products) via Provinciale 59 “formaggetta”, a fresh and via Mainero 33 via Provinciale 1 loc. Ca’ de Berna soft cheese, with a gentle Ph. 0182 922029 Ph. 0182 98204 Ph. 02 866901 but intense flavour. It is Agriturismo La Ferla www.frantoiorosciano.it [email protected] served seasoned with local via Provinciale 53 Museo Etnografico Ristorante La Greppia extra virgin olive oil. Ph. 0182 98279 della Val Varatella via Lucifredi 9 333 3071690 (Ethnographic Museum) Ph. 0182 988020 www.agriturismolaferla.it via Polla, Ph. 0182 989968 www.ristorante-lagreppia.com 24 25 preserved 15th century On foot around Cisano THE NEVA VALLEY A bell tower among castle of the Del Carretto From the centre of Cisano ancient alleys family, built high upon you can arrive at the Past the motorway tollgate the hill. panoramic holy shrine Welcome in the Maritime Alps you enter Provincial Road of Monte Croce, passing no. 582 that quickly leads It was the year 1280... by Pizzo Ceresa and The motorway tollgate of Albenga acts as a border between the to Cisano sul Neva, a stop ...when Cisano was the 19th century fort of coastal plain and the network of the four valleys where water from on the “Road of Wine founded by the city-state Poggio Grande. The fort the Maritime Alps flows down to the river Centa and the city. To- and Oil”. Further inland of Albenga to contrast of Rocca Liverna, situated wards the sea lies Albenga with its Roman and Medieval old centre, and leaving the main the expansionism of the on the opposite side of the agricultural plain, a beach with bathing establishments, hotels road you enter the old marquis of Clavesana, who the valley, is reachable by and campsites, which join the towns of at one side and centre of Cisano, with the dominated the nearby a path that leaves from at the other. An upwards direction takes you towards the Romanesque bell tower of Pennavaire Valley. Martinetto, the last hamlet Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley, which rise towards the li- the 17th century church of of the municipality beyond mestone crest of Mount Galero and the San Bernardo pass. Beyond Santa Maria Maddalena. The Poggio Grande Conscente: it is a “military” them, the Tànaro Valley extends towards Piedmont. Park in the square in front Naturalistic Area itinerary, which runs of the town hall, Piazza del Cisano lies on the western alongside former barracks Municipio, in order to stroll boundary of the Poggio and an ancient gunpowder among the alleys. A short Grande Naturalistic Area, magazine. distance away from the which extends towards centre is the Romanesque Toirano and the town of church of San Calogero, Borghetto Santo Spirito in a originating from the 11th typically Ligurian landscape Its walls and its century. of terraced slopes, porticoes cultivated or recaptured Past Martinetto the valley A castle among olive by woods, olive groves, spreads and the main road groves Mediterranean maquis and continues beside the river The hamlet of Conscente is 19th century military forts. Neva. After about 2 km dominated by the perfectly All with a sea view. appear the stone ruins

26 27 of a medieval castle high in labour only two years it is necessary to wander on the hill and, low and later: the monument by through the “carruggi”, to the side of the road, a Jacopo della Quercia in the or cobbled alleys, passing small frescoed chapel. This cathedral of the Tuscan under vaults and stone is the road for Zuccarello, city is dedicated to her. A arches, descending to which won the title of historical celebration each Piazza delle Erbe and “Most Beautiful Villages year commemorates the observing the cluster of in Italy”. It is necessary to wedding of Ilaria and the buildings, in brown-grey leave your car in the car event is associated with an stone that rise towards the park opposite the door in art exhibition. castle, then admiring from the city walls and walk into up high the maze of roofs the village, crossed by two The path of Ilaria... and terraces. lines of low porticoes in ...is an excursion itinerary the Piedmontese-Ligurian that connects Zuccarello “Il Paese dei Balocchi” style, which have remained to Castelvecchio di (Toyland) almost intact for over six Rocca Barbena crossing In summer Castelvecchio hundred years. Mediterranean maquis, turns into a single, free vegetable gardens, playground with the The ancient capital of cultivated terraces, olive traditional festival “Il the marquis groves, chestnut groves Paese dei Balocchi” - Zuccarello was founded by and spring flowers. It is a ideal for children, but the marquis of Clavesana in gentle, easy walk, about 3 not only: games from 1248. In 1326 the marquis kilometres long, and it can the past, workshops and Del Carretto made the be undertaken by all. performances in the various town the capital of his squares of the village. family’s domain and seat of their palace. The castle Castelvecchio di Among the most at the top of the hill is even Rocca Barbena beautiful villages of Italy more ancient and its ruins An eagle’s nest Castelvecchio belongs are reached by a twenty between rocks and sky to an association called minute walk from the Going up in an increasingly “The Most Beautiful centre. mountainous landscape, Villages of Italy”, which after a small ruined and unites resorts of artistic A Roman medieval abandoned village in the and environmental value bridge brush, Castelvecchio di with limited populations Zuccarello is famous for its Rocca Barbena appears and a well kept urban Roman bridge, reachable almost by surprise. environment. It also from the centre by a Clinging to the limestone obtained the “Orange curving path. The bridge sides of Rocca Barbena Flag” from the Italian is perhaps not Roman but (1142m), Castelvecchio Touring Club, a certificate certainly medieval and is a walled village that of quality that rewards a among the most beautiful has remained intact since varied choice of tourism in Liguria; it was made medieval times. Stronghold opportunities and famous some years ago by of the Clavesana and Del environmental friendliness. a cover of Time magazine. Carretto families, in the 17th century it was fought She was so young, she over by Savoy and Genoa. was so beautiful... Land of mushrooms Ilaria Del Carretto was A Mediterranean village and chestnuts born in Zuccarello. She Castelvecchio is foremost Past Castelvecchio, became the young wife a Mediterranean village, Provincial Road 582 of Paolo Guinigi, Lord of even before it is Ligurian: ascends to the territory Lucca in 1403 and died to grasp all of its beauty of the municipality of Erli,

28 29 towards the watershed TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Ristorante Le Cascate Prodotti Tipici Il Pensiero of the Po river and the via Piemonte 35, Martinetto (oil, wine and preserves) 957 metres of Piedmont’s Cisano sul Neva Ph. 0182 594069 via Aratro 10 Ristorante Pizzeria San Bernardo pass. Its Town Hall Ph. 0182 595026 Ph. 0182 78204, 338 1659790 www.comune.cisanosulneva.sv.it Torre Pernice Ristorante Pizzeria 250 inhabitants live in 14 loc. Torre Pernice Anna ed Eber hamlets scattered among Agriturismo Gli Angeli Ph. 0182 20065 via Maggiore 2, Vecersio via Moglia 11, Cenesi chestnut groves, orchards Ph. 0182 78111 and cultivated terraces; Ph. 0182 20706 www.gliangeliagriturismo.it Trattoria Malco now and again a bell tower Zuccarello via Roma 7 Agriturismo Ultimo Tiro Town Hall Ph. 0182 79022 rises through the green Ph. 0182 78181 via Colombo 5 www.comunezuccarello.it vegetation, here and there Ph. 0182 595033 lie groups of abandoned Bar Neva (snack bar) Affittacamere Ristorante Erli via Colombo 33 Podere La Villa stone houses. Town Hall Ph. 0182 78030 (rooms and restaurant) Ph. 0182 595024 www.comunedierli.it via Nazionale 39 Barbarians and Romans B&B A Casa di MI Ph. 0182 79123 via Poggio della Croce 6/1 Hotel Ristorante Founded along the ancient 347 0077702 Ph. 0182 590041 Da Lisetta salt road, of which remains a www.poderelavilla.com 348 7664997 via Piemonte 21 B&B La Zagara Romanesque bridge, Erli was www.acasadimi.it Ph. 0182 78032 via Castello 7, Ph. 327 8618096 probably a station for the B&B Gli Ulivi Negozio di commestibili [email protected] (grocer’s) via Piemonte 21a changing of horses. via Nuova 69 Borgo d’Ilaria Ph. 0182 78032 Ph. 329 6017807 (oil, jams and typical products) Panificio Eddio Basso 392 9776183 via Tornatore 71 The salt roads (bakery and amaretti, typical B&B El Quijote Ph. 338 8880195 The salt roads were the biscuits) piazza G. Gollo 22 Ristorante Il Torchio ancient ways: mule tracks via Roma 2, Ph. 0182 78058 Ph. 0182 595469 via Tornatore 184 that departed from the 348 4507575 Ph. 0182 79000 Riviera, ascending the www.bb-elquijote.eu Ristorante Pizzeria Apennines and descending Felice Michero (wine) La Cittadella towards the centres of the via Moraire 54 via Tornatore 194 Ph. 0182 79074 Ph. 0182 595000 Po Valley plain. On the coast 335 6098566 Felice Noberasco salt, iron, anchovies and oil Usteria du Burgu (eggs and wine) were loaded. These goods via Tornatore, 195 via Roma 50 were traded in the markets Ph. 0182 79100 Ph. 0182 595025 of the Po Valley for grain, 348 8133174 cloth, tools, wine and meat. Frantoio Fratelli Pozzo Castelvecchio (oil, products in oil and di Rocca Barbena Fruits for every taste pickled olives) Town Hall Ph. 0182 78042 Here we are at the high via Amedeo 31, Conscente www.comune.castelvecchio.sv.it standards of Pigato DOC, Ph. 0182 595047 www.oliopozzo.it but even more than a land A Butea (grocer’s) Pizzeria Braceria via Provinciale 3 of wine, this is the land Il Peperoncino Rosso Ph. 380 7194879 of vegetable gardens and via Pineta 1, Cènesi Affittacamere Casa Cambi orchards, where some Ph. 0182 20853 (rooms) via Roma 42 special varieties grow. For Ristorante Bar Sport Ph. 0182 78009 via Colombo 35 example “pelandroni” www.casacambi.it Ph. 0182 595323 beans, “siccardi” apricots, Agriturismo www.barsportcisano.com small and with flecked skin, Antico Melo with Museum Ristorante Brasserie via Campo 12 or “michelin” peaches with U Rundò white pulp. It is not so easy via Gombo 39, Conscente Ph. 329 3143795 to find these delicacies, but Ph. 0182 595207 www.anticomelo.it by asking around in the 14 Ristorante Pizzeria Antica Osteria Alla Posta hamlets you can find the Osteria della Fenice via Colombera 3 Ph. 0182 78282 right farmer to buy some via Nuova 87 Ph. 0182 595547 www.anticaosteriaallaposta.it from.

30 31 Maritime Alps” is housed in TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP White like cherry an ancient tower. Castelbianco blossoms Town Hall Ph. 0182 77006 The lower Pennavaire Valley www.comune.castelbianco.sv.it is part of the scattered Agriturismo A Ca’ du Ricci via Pennavaire 69, Ph. 0182 77033 Where eagles dare municipality of Castelbianco, www.acaduricci.com with about 270 inhabitants Almost at the border with Agriturismo Casa dei Nonni living in about ten hamlets. the Cuneo province (a via Vesallo 18 Castelbianco is renowned for large part of the upper Ph. 0182 77030, 339 6933994 www.casadeinonni.it its cherries, wonderful fresh Pennavaire Valley is in Agriturismo Da Ferruccio or as jam. The farmers gladly Piedmont) lies Nasino with via Pennavaire 48 sell their produce to passing its 10 hamlets, some of Ph. 0182 77013 www.agriturismodaferruccio.it tourists along the main road which have roofs covered B&B Fuori di Zucca and in the hamlets. with ancient stone slabs, via V. Veneto 39, Veravo or “ciappe”, where 240 Ph. 0182 77242 Mountain sports inhabitants live among www.artigianodelsuono.com B&B Rosso Ciliegia The rocky mountain faces terraces planted with olive via Pennavaire 51 around the town are a trees and the first chestnut Ph. 0182 779006, 338 2197425 delight for free climbers; groves of Mount Galero. www.rossociliegia.it Mount Alpe (1056 m All around are the true Castelbianco Colletta (rooms and apartments in the high) is also reachable by Alps, where the limestone village), via Santa Lucia 2 mountain bike leaving that forms the mountains Ph. 0182 778380, www.colletta.it from the hamlet of Veravo. created karst caves where Hotel Ristorante Gin via Pennavaire 99 pre-historic man lived (the Another itinerary from the Ph. 0182 77001, www.dagin.it hamlet of Vesallo arrives Arma di Nasino, one of the Hotel Ristorante Scola THE PENNAVAIRE at Zuccarello, in the Neva more than fifty caves of the via Pennavaire 166 Valley. Pennavaire Valley, bears Ph. 0182 77015, 335 5919085 www.scolarist.it VALLEY human traces starting from Locanda delle Antiche Pietre The computerized 7000 b.C.) and where via Muntà du Bricchettu 3, The Dolomites of Liguria medieval village birds of prey nest upon Colletta, Ph. 0182 778244 Colletta, the “computerized steep mountain faces Nasino Go back to Martinetto where to the orographic right the main tributa- medieval village” is one (some say that there are Town Hall Ph. 0182 77017 ry of the Neva, the Pennavaire stream, flows into it, descending from of “The Most Beautiful even eagles). www.comune.nasino.sv.it Villages of Italy”; a beautiful Antica Osteria Costa the 1708 m high Mount Galero and the 1739 m high Mount Armetta via Roma 22 in Piedmont. Pennavaire is a wonderful alpine valley, in whose woods hamlet of stone houses, Where the pasture is Ph. 0182 77002, 338 6683961 higher... alder, oak and chestnut trees rise at an increasing height before giving narrow alleys, curved www.osteriacosta.it arches and short flights of You can take one of the Azienda Agricola di up to beech and larch trees, while berries and mushrooms thrive in Graziella Silvestri steps. Colletta has been paths, which from Nasino the undergrowth. The fossil-rich, limestone cliffs form a landscape si- (farm) via Roma 67 completely restructured: on climb Mount Alpe (1056 Ph. 0182 779003, 333 4651709 milar to the Dolomites: and like the Dolomites it was created by the the outside it maintains its m) or Mount Castell’Ermo Azienda Agricola di accumulation of sponges, coral and madrepores that lived in the tro- old appearance but, inside, (1092 m), to the Penne Loredana Bellotoma (farm) pical sea covering this region 200 million years ago. via Montello 2A, Borgo the houses are absolutely peak (1405 m) or Mount Ph. 0182 77138 modern, connected to the Galero (1708 m) and go in Azienda Olearia L’Ulivo di world across the Internet search of herds, flocks and De Andreis G. e C. (pickled olives and extravirgin olive oil) and equipped with the shepherds. Enjoy the view, via Roma 91/1, Ph. 0182 77213 comforts of swimming which on clear days allows B&B Il Portichetto pools, saunas and solariums. you to see the curved arch via Diaz 24 An open amphitheatre of the Ligurian coast, the Ph. 0182 77173, 339 8418449 www.bebilportichetto.it makes the most of the Apuan Alps and Corsica. Frantoio da Olive di terraces built by farmers in Armando Garello the past. The “Laboratory of (oil mill) via Roma 13 Historic Anthropology of the Ph. 0182 77020 www.frantoiogarello.it

32 33 The “new villas” of Peagna Campochiesa, at a height the plain Peagna forms part of the of 30 metres: it is a small PEAGNA AND THE The present hamlets of municipality of Ceriale hamlet, delightful and Albenga were founded and is a medieval village secluded. Its artistic jewel, ALBENGA PLAIN in the medieval period of colourful houses and however, is outside the as “borghi” (villages narrow alleys situated village, in the cemetery: Behind Albenga and Ceriale surrounded by a wall) or 120 metres above sea the Romanesque-Gothic “ville” (agricultural centres) level at the limits of the church of Saint George Some pretty and scenic hamlets look out over the not so distant bea- by the city-state of Albenga Albenga Plain. At the preserves important ches; places where the night is fresher and you can breathe in the fra- to cultivate the Centa plain end of summer it holds frescoes including the Last grance of the countryside: they are the sea front of the other Riviera, and to defend the territory the Ligurian Book Show, Judgement from 1446 where Dante, Virgil and sheltered from the lively frenzy of the coast and already offering the from threat. In each there is which displays new books other characters from pleasure of inland nature. a clear medieval structure, from Liguria and rare made up of narrow books. The “Silvio Lai” the Divine Comedy are alleys, stone or brightly Palaeontological Museum depicted. coloured houses and allows the discovery of many olive groves. They the geologic history of the are surrounded by fertile region and is connected to Salea countryside punctuated the nearby regional nature Houses with flat roofs, with greenhouses and reserve of Rio Torsero, with terraced land, tranquil the cultivation of purple a rich fossil deposit of the elegant corners and all the asparagus, a Slow Food Pliocene era in a small, charm of the Ligurian hills: Presidium (quality mark), dense wood. this is Sàlea, at 60 metres spiky artichokes, trombetta above sea level, the land courgettes, cuore di bue of Pigato DOC wine. Each tomatoes, open fields, Campochiesa year in September the wine Pigato DOC vineyards and The first hamlet of festival “Sagralea” is large bushes of yellow Albenga which you meet dedicated to the wine broom. coming from the east is Pigato.

34 35 Leca TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Salea Agriturismo I Ciclamini This is one of the main Azienda Agricola regione Martinassi, 1 Peagna La Vecchia Cantina Ph. 335 6450765 “villas” of Albenga, a B&B Locanda di Anthia di Umberto Calleri www.ciclamini.eu large, level village next piazza G. Battista 3/2 (farm) via Corta 3 Agriturismo to the Neva stream. It Ph. 329 7068154 Ph. 0182 559881 Il Nostro Oliveto preserves some ancient www.locandadianthia.com [email protected] via Becchignoli, 51 buildings such as the XVI Camping Alì Babà Azienda Vitivinicola Ph. 348 2451655 century villa d’Aste with its (with restaurant and pizzeria) Le Rocche del Gatto 347 2845663 via N.S. delle Grazie 80 (wine) regione Ruato 4 www.ilnostroliveto.it powerful tower. Above all, Ph. 0182 990182 Ph. 348 2627094 Azienda Agricola Anfossi it is the capital of Albenga restaurant www.lerocchedelgatto.it (wine, oil and vegetables) olive oil. Ph. 0182 931703 Camping la Pineta via Paccini 39 www.campingalibaba.it regione Roberti 17 Ph. 0182 20024 Casa per Ferie Ph. 0182 20493 www.aziendaagrariaanfossi.it Bastia Santa Maria Belfiore www.lapinetavacanze.it Bartolomeo Maglione (wine and oil) At 25 metres above sea (holiday home) Cantine Calleri via Santa Maria Belfiore 12 (wine) regione Frati 2 via Becchignoli 18 level this village lies in a line Ph. 0182 990885 Ph. 0182 21710, 349 2809630 Ph. 0182 20729 upon the ridge of a hill. 393 0350330 www.cantinecalleri.com 340 6268679 It rose around a military www.santamariabelfiore.it Hotel Cà di Berta Bed & Breakfast fortification whose remains Museo paleontologico Ristorante Carlotta Il Campanile are today part of the villa Silvio Lai e Riserva regione Case di Berta piazza Annunziata 3 Anfossi. Here too there are Naturale Regionale Ph. 0182 559930 Ph. 0182 21823 del Rio Torsero www.hotelcadiberta.it Bio Vio Aimone alleys, stone walls, silent (Paleontological Museum and (wine, oil, organic aromatic small squares, vineyards, Natural Reserve) Leca herbs), via Crociata 24 olive-mills... strada Nuova di Peagna 209 Agriturismo Villa Rubra Ph. 0182 21856 Ph. 0182 990208 via Al Piemonte 242 www.biovio.it 0182 990024 Ph. 334 2542083 Cascina Feipu (wine) Lusignano www.riotorsero.it www.agriturismovillarubra.it regione Massaretti 7 Ristorante Il Faro Azienda Vitivinicola Luigi Ph. 0182 20131 To the right of the Arroscia strada nuova di Peagna 130 Sartori www.aziendamassaretti.it stream, Lusignano is a Ph. 0182 990176 (wine bar, DOC wines and I Formaggi del Boschetto “villa” of 16th century agriturismo) (cheese) regione Boschetto houses lined up on a small Campochiesa regione Torre Pernice 3 Ph. 0182 20687 ridge with small vegetable Agriturismo Il Colletto Ph. 0182 20042 339 4167938 gardens behind them, via Cavour 34 www.sartoripigato.it Pizzeria Brasserie il Torchietto its alleys and walls are Ph. 0182 21858 Frantoio da Olive Marco 335 260254 (oil, products in oil and pickled via Massari 18, Ph. 0182 21395 warmed by the light colour www.agriturismoilcolletto.it olives) Pizzeria Ristorante of the local stone. Agriturismo Signola via Piemonte 152 Cà du Ghilla regione Signola 4 Ph. 0182 20055 via degli Oddi 2 Ph. 0182 555643 www.frantoiomarco.com Ph. 0182 630600 San Fedele www.agriturismosignola.com Frantoio Delfino Gorlero 331 7482671 Moving towards the coast Azienda Agricola (oil mill) loc. Cime di Leca 7 Ristorante Lì per Lì Il Pitosforo Ph. 0182 20305 via Paccini 34 is the “villa” of San Fedele (farm, organic sage) Frantoio Fratelli Revello Ph. 0182 20772 also with a linear layout Ph. 0182 542843 (oil mill) loc. Cime di Leca RistoBar Ortofrutticola up on a hill ridge. Lower Camping Bellavista via al Piemonte 5b regione Massaretti 32 down, the beautiful church regione Campore 23 Ph. 0182 20197 Ph. 0182 589038 of Saint Simon and Saint Ph. 0182 540213 Pizzeria Mammamia www.ristobarortofrutticola.it Judas stands out with its 329 5923684 via Piemonte 103 Trattoria tipica www.campingbellavista.it Ph. 0182 20564 con camere La Vecchia Romanesque bell tower Elena Ranch (with rooms) via Paccini 81 and the high cypress tree regione Veirano 1 Bastia Ph. 0182 20510 that watches on it. Ph. 338 8046059 Agriturismo Alla Mal Vitivinicola Enrico Dario www.elenaranch.it Parata e il Negozio del Borgo Ristorante le Rapalline regione Fierè 1 (wine and more) via Massari 4 regione Rapalline Ph. 335 7048045 Ph. 0182 20548 Ph. 0182 20340 www.allamalparata.it www.enricodario.it

36 37 sun. In Ortovero the vines surrounding walls. Near THE ARROSCIA The Romans among were planted in 1830 by the parish church of San peaches and roses the archpriest Francesco Silvestro Papa, the theatre The ancient Romans Gagliolo, it is important Teatro Casone is to be VALLEY enjoyed the wine and as an “ambassador” of found. fruit of the Arroscia Valley, Ligurian wines, because it From the sea, towards the Alps ripened in the sun of is a DOC wine made from The sea once reigned Ortovero, which today a vine cultivated only in here … The motorway tollgate of Albenga acts as the point of departure to- has 1400 inhabitants. Liguria. Evidence of the local wards the longest of the four valleys of the Albenga region, although The peaches of Ortovero geologic events is the the takes up only its lower section. The Arroscia are also appreciated in A little art and history Argille (clay) of Ortovero, Valley takes water born on the snowfields of the Maritime Alps to Piedmont. In addition to The hamlet of Pozzo which comes to the the sea, rising across cultivated countryside, vineyards and woods, orchards there are rose preserves the remains surface near Borgo Fasceo gardens: surrounding the and is known as “terìn pushing the salty air and the smell of the sea and of the Riviera to- of an ancient village, a fortified village of Pogli, 13th century castle of gianchi” (white soil); wards the mountains. founded in 1288, roses of the Clavesana family it dates back millions special characteristics are and a tower. Behind the of years to a period cultivated in greenhouses. remains of the castle the (Pliocene) when the sea elliptical and baroque moved very far inland. A Greek vine oratory of Saint John This clay is rather rich in naturalized in Liguria the Baptist stands out, fossils of micro and macro- The Pigato arrived in with its churchyard in fauna. Liguria in the Middle Ages black and white cobbles, from Greece, from one known locally as risseu. of the Genoese colonies The entire village of Pogli in Aegean Sea. It is a is interesting, with its On the slopes of white wine with a golden fortified structure; still Castell’Ermo colour and the flavours visible are five towers Continuing onwards from and tastes of Ligurian and parts of the original Ortovero towards the

38 39 upper Arroscia Valley, the Onzo to Castell’Ermo Olives, olives, olives... church of San Calocero can visit the remains of and a few ancient is the scene of a festival the ancient castle. From churches every five years: three the summit, a beautiful The landscape of the processions join here from view of the surrounding hills around the neighbouring villages. valley, of Albenga and of is characterized by the A winding route climbs the the coast can be enjoyed. presence of olive trees. hills of the valley, which Those who travel (by car Low down, far below the soon becomes a rocky, or on foot) to Menezzo, at bends of the main road, rugged and extremely an altitude of 600 metres, rises the isolated church scenic mountain: can go fishing at the of Migliarina. Higher up, Castell’Ermo, from its artificial lake. towards the summit of height of 1092 metres, Castell’Ermo, you can dominates the territory of reach the sanctuary of San the municipality of Onzo Vendone Calocero, dedicated to a and its hamlets scattered A scenic and open road Roman soldier who died as among olive groves and From Onzo, it is nice to a martyr in Albenga. copse woods; the 240 return towards the coast inhabitants cultivate olives, following an itinerary The “Garden of chestnuts and grapes, cut into the hill-side, Stones” used to produce Pigato In the shadow of the in a setting that winds DOC. Castellaro tower there along the small valleys are about twenty large The route of the of tributary streams of standing stones, rosy- partisans the Arroscia and through white and decorated Through the Onzo the hamlets of the with lines and geometric territory passes a section municipality of Vendone. figures. They are of the route known as This scenic route offers the sculptures by Reiner “Fischia il vento” (the possibility to take short Kriester, who lived and wind is blowing), after breaks for local wine, worked in Vendone the opening words of a cuisine and culture. for many years; an famous partisan song. This open-air museum in path is dedicated to the A castle here and there the Mediterranean partisan Felice Cascione, The 390 inhabitants of countryside. who fought among Vendone have their town the valleys of Mèrula, hall in Lèuso, however, Lerrone and Arroscia and Castellaro and Curenna was the author of the are the most interesting A balcony looking out famous song. Eighteen villages. The castle of over the valley kilometres of hill pathway Curenna takes advantage 550 inhabitants are cross the municipalities of the natural ruggedness distributed halfway up the of Tèstico, Casanova of the rocks upon which slope in various hamlets, Lerrone, Onzo, Vendone it is built, and so do the a landscape rich in olive and Alto. The view is fortified houses at the groves, a tranquil road wonderful, looking over entrance to the medieval that rises through pine the Maritime Alps and the village. The powerful trees to a radiant view sea, farming villages and fortress of Castellaro has of the open plain of the countryside. a triangular plan in order Albenga: this is Arnasco, to make the most of the in the small valley of the Fishing and walking in shape of the rocky buttress Aibeglia stream. Arnasco the woods upon which it was erected. probably dates back to Hikers who walk up from Roman times, and its first

40 41 populated centre rose Murals and dry-stone in the valley bottom in walls the vicinity of the small People had the idea church of San Dalmazzo at the end of the XX (12th century), perhaps century: thanks to the the oldest church in the work of professional and Albenga region. amateur artists, the walls along the provincial road Trails that goes through the A hiking route takes you to hamlet has been covered an ancient Napoleonic fort by dozens of coloured at a height of 800 metres. murals that represent From Arnasco many paths subjects of country lead to the other villages culture, Ligurian land and of the Arroscia Valley, the olive trees cultivation; a Pennavaire Valley and the successful initiative that Neva Valley. still goes on. The annual “International Course “Pignola” olives of Dry-stone Wallls” is a The cultivation of Pignola clever idea with the aim to olives, named after the preserve these walls that Italian word for pine nuts are a basic element of the due to their distinctive Ligurian rural landscape TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Hotel Country House Agriturismo Vignola Trattoria Pizzeria taste, dates back to the (basic as they are Borgofasceo Mariangela l’Alpino 17th century. Grafting is indispensable to support Ortovero via Fasceo 1 e via Villa 1 (apartments) fraz. Léuso, Ph. 0182 76435 required for cultivation, the terrace-cultivations) Town Hall Ph. 0182 547388 Ph. 0182 547310 fraz. Costa 15 because of the stony and and the techniques www.comuneortovero.it www.borgofasceo.it Ph. 339 4416077 Arnasco Hotel Ristorante Tripoli Associazione Sportiva Town Hall Ph. 0182 761020 dry soil of this terraced of construction. As Azienda Agricola Durin via Roma 42 Dilettantistica www.comunearnasco.it land. The Cooperativa important is the activity of (wine and oil) via Roma 92 Ph. 0182 547017 Tiro al Volo Olivicola Arnasco (olive valorization of traditional Ph. 0182 547007 Osteria della Ciccia (clay-pigeon shooting) Agriturismo il Carruggio growers’ cooperative) is rural constructions as the www.durin.it via Roma 65 loc. Colla, Ph. 338 6152784 via Gallizzi 6, Ph. 0182 761031 Ph. 0182 547275 Pesca turistica 0182 761182, 335 7051625 the sole producer of the “caselle” of shepherds. Azienda Agricola Frantoio Pasqua 329 4330530 nel lago di Menezzo B&B Serendipiti extra virgin olive oil made (farm and oil mill) Ristorante Grani di Pepe (fishing in a lake) fraz. Menosio, via Genova 14 with Pignola olives, locally fraz.Campi 46 via Roma 5, Ph. 0182 547245 Ph. 0182 766004 (Town Hall) Ph. 0182 761130 called Arnasca. Ph. 0182 76239, 333 9676991 www.granidipepe.biz 339 6065121 www.frantoiopasqua.com Ristorante Pizzeria Olive Vendone Cooperativa Olivicola e Azienda Agricola e e Lavanda Town Hall Ph. 0182 76248 Museo dell’Olivo e della The Museum of our Cantina Franco Pisano vico Arroscia 5 www.comunedivendone.it Civiltà Contadina history (farm and wineshop) Ph. 0182 547236 (Oil Cooperative and Museum The Museo dell’Ulivo e via Nazionale 22, Pogli 339 4890714 Agriturismo La Crosa for olive-culture and country life) della Civiltà Contadina Ph. 0182 547029 [email protected] fraz. Crosa 10 piazza IV Novembre 8 Ristorante Wine Bar La Ph. 0182 76331 Ph. 0182 761178 (Museum of the olive Bar d’Utué (snack bar) via Roma 99 Cantina di Sonia www.lacrosa.it www.coopolivicolarnasco.it tree and of rural culture), Ph. 0182 547303 piazza IV Novembre 11 Azienda Agricola Hotel Collina run by the cooperative B&B il Frutteto Ph. 333 1312045 di Claudio Vio piazza IV Novembre 7 as the adjoining typical reg. Villa 2, Ph. 339 7397592 [email protected] (farm) fraz. Crosa 16 Ph. 0182 761008 products shop, is right in Centro Enologico Enoteca Teatro Casone Ph. 0182 76338 www.albergocollina.it Regionale (theatre) via alla Chiesa 26 Azienda Agricola Ristorante Agriturismo the centre of the village. It (regional oenological centre) Ph. 0182 547338 (Town Hall) Renzo Bronda Gumbu du Camallu tells the story of the life of viale alla Chiesa 18 Trattoria Vignola (farm) fraz. Cantone 16 via XXV Aprile 3/4 this land, in which olives Ph. 0182 547388 (Town Hall) via Nazionale 2, Pogli Ph. 0182 76253 Ph. 0182 761564 have always characterized Cooperativa Viticoltori Ph. 0182 559877 Azienda Agricola 338 2747920 Revello www.gumbuducamallu.it the economy. Inside the Ingauni (vine-growers cooperative) Onzo (farm) fraz. Leuso 22 Trattoria da Bianca museum is an old restored via Roma 1, Ph. 0182 547127 Town Hall Ph. 0182 766004 Ph. 0182 766501 via Stefano Viaggio 10 olive press. www.viticoltoriingauni.it www.comuneonzo.net www.oliorevello.it Ph. 0182 761016

42 43 Villanova the “Raduno Fiat 500“. The d’albenga Country village or an multimedia-museum Museo A “new” town élite tourist spot? Multimediale della 500 Dante surrounded by walls Both of these things: Giacosa is dedicated to the Villanova is the most Garlenda, is an international legendary economy car. With important of the walled tourist centre but at the the help of modern media, towns that the city-state same time a charming it shows a cross-section of of Albenga founded in village, where 880 Italian life. Calendars and the 13th century to guard inhabitants live immersed almanacs in dialect and Italian access from the inland. It in a luxuriant countryside from all over Liguria are is surrounded by walls and of orchards, olive groves displayed at the Costa - Del numerous towers. Of the and vineyards producing Carretto castle. original “villa nova” (Latin Pigato and Rossese. Here for “new villa”), a covered perfectly renovated hamlets well with ancient chain with stone houses and and top also remains at the with flowers along the Immersed in a sea of centre of the main street. roads, such as the hamlet hills of Castelli, are to be found 840 inhabitants scattered An agricultural town next to elegant modern in different hamlets at For over a century violets residential areas hidden various altitudes upon the have been cultivated in the among the greenery. hill slopes covered with olive countryside of Villanova, groves and woods. This is packaged including their The Golf Club Casanova Lerrone, whose leaves and sent all over Garlenda’s Golf Club has territory includes almost all Europe. an 18-hole golf course, of the upper Lerrone Valley. THE LERRONE varied and perfectly fitted It has the typical scenery of A beautiful round into the landscape. The interior Liguria, a territory of VALLEY church course is open throughout beautiful excursions towards A worthy visit in Villanova the year and is almost 6 the coast or towards the A ring-road among olive trees (1940 inhabitants) is to km long, Par 71; the Club province of Imperia, among the church of Santa Maria House is equipped with bar, pine trees and olive groves and chestnuts Rotonda or del Soccorso, restaurant and guest house. or the meadows and oak dating to 1520. It is one tree woods of the Ginestro The two most western valleys of the Riviera delle Palme are reachable of the few Italian churches A monumental tree pass. Among the old houses with a single itinerary, which from Albenga climbs the Lerrone Valley, with a round shape and Close to the small church rises the castle of the Doria descends into the Mèrula Valley and ends in Andora. It passes hamlets layout. of San Rocco, stands the family, while in the hamlet among woods or city walls, watched over by churches and castles, majestic “u Ruve de San of Bossanico, among cypress surrounded by hills covered with olive and chestnut trees. An airport town Roccu”, an oak tree entered and eucalyptus trees, is A road that runs to the in the list of monumental the castle Poggiolo, with right of Nostra Signora trees of Liguria; it is 250- 17th century rooms and delle Grazie church leads 300 years old and 24.5 furnishings. One of the to the international airport metres high; its trunk has a hamlets is Marmòreo, with “C. Panero”, now fully circumference of more than stone houses of a beige-grey operational for private 4 and a half metres. tone, scattered along the and public air service. The open ridge towards the airport has a field for model Vintage cars and old Arroscia Valley and the first aircraft and organizes calendars peaks of the Maritime Alps. flying and parachuting A gathering of car Degna is a village of ancient courses. Continuing along enthusiasts from all over houses grouped together in the same road you reach the world, all in love the form of a cross under the the “Ippodromo dei Fiori” with the Fiat 500, comes tall bell tower of the parish racetrack. together each summer for church.

44 45 TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Hotel Ristorante Agriturismo I Re Fenean Ristorante Pizzeria Hermitage borgo Praglione 67 Il Frantoio Villanova d’Albenga via Roma 152 (near the golf) via Lerrone 56, Ph. 0182 582046 Town Hall Ph. 0182 582913 Ph. 0182 582976 Ph. 388 3478386 Taverna Henry La Viande www.villanovadalbenga.com www.hotelhermitage.info www.irefenean.com borgata Chiappa 23 Ippodromo dei Fiori e Agriturismo Ph. 0182 582599 Aeroporto Internazionale Ristorante Pizzeria Zachiky Il Giardino del Sole 335 6959757 Clemente Panero (racetrack and restaurant) via Praglione 27 Tennis Club Garlenda (airport) loc. Aeroporto strada per Ligo 4 Ph. 0182 580069 con Ristorante Ph. 0182 582033 Ph. 0182 582666 www.ilgiardinodelsole.net borgo Ponte 31 www.rivierairport.it 0182 580641 Agriturismo Ristorante Ph. 0182 585028 Affittacamere www.ippodromodeifiori.com Le Serrette Borgo delle Viole Maneggio Country Club regione Brà 23 (rooms) via Martiri 6 (riding school) Ph. 0182 583886 Casanova Lerrone Ph. 0182 582499 loc. San Rocco 7 www.serrette.it Town Hall www.borgodelleviole.it Strada Villanova - Garlenda B&B Rosalina Ph. 0182 74014 Agriturismo La Ramera Ph. 0182 580640 via Delle Rocche 4 www.comunedicasanovalerrone.net loc. Torlai (near regione Osteria La Madia Ph. 0182 580064 San Rocco Garlenda) loc. Coasco 24, sulla SP 453 377 2424953 Agriturismo A Canonica Ph. 392 5953088 Ph. 0182 585084 www.bedandbreakfast-rosalina.it fraz. Bassanico 24 www.laramera.it Pasta fresca Poggio Golf Club Ph. 0182 74343, 339 6333692 Agriturismo Le Collinette (homemade pasta), via Roma 51 via del Golf 7, Ph. 0182 580012 Agriturismo Au Campu fraz. Coasco 86 Ph. 0182 582953 www.garlendagolf.it fraz. Degna 7, Ph. 347 3224475 Ph. 0182 582812 Pizzeria Le Dieci Torri Hotel e Ristorante www.aucampu.it 392 9359624 via Roma 17H Golf Club Agriturismo Borgo Ameno www.agriturismolecollinette.it Ph. 0182 582697 via del Golf 7, Ph. 0182 583813 via Case Soprane 4 Agriturismo Le Giare www.ristorantele10torrivillanova.com www.garlendagolfhotel.com Ph. 0182 74318 via Roma 231 Ristorante Osteria del Sì Hotel La Meridiana Relais www.borgoameno.it Ph. 0182 580008 vico Ponte 9/11 & Chateaux e Ristorante Agriturismo Borgo Degli Ulivi 335 6856509 Ph. 0182 585006 Il Rosmarino fraz. Vellego 39 www.legiareagriturismo.it Ristorante dell’Aeroporto via ai Castelli 11 Ph. 338 2211362 Agriturismo Ligasole loc. Aeroporto Ph. 0182 580271 Agriturismo Gli Ulivi piazza della Chiesa 7, Ligo Ph. 0182 585027 www.lameridianaresort.com fraz. Maremo Sottano 9 Ph. 338 6039007 Ristorante Il Boschetto Indios Ranch (trekking and Ph. 0182 74149 [email protected] Strada per Ligo 1 horse riding, school and www.agrigliulivi.it Agriturismo Mantica Ph. 0182 580348 shelter) Agriturismo II Poggio fraz. Bossoleto 39 www.ilboschettoinvillanova.it borgata Cantone fraz. Marmòreo, via Poggio 97 Ph. 0182 582824 Ristorante Pizzeria Ph. 339 4480866 Ph. 0182 74040 338 9858139 Claro de Luna Museo Multimediale [email protected] [email protected] fraz. Bossoleto 6 della 500 Dante Giacosa Agriturismo B&B Relax Ph. 0182 580553 (Museum of Fiat 500 car) La Casa della Nonna fraz. Marta 13bis Villaggio Turistico via Roma 90, Ph. 0182 582282 fraz. Poggio 26 Ph. 0182 582269 C’era una Volta www.500clubitalia.it Ph. 0182 74164, 328 9590455 392 5518907 (camping with restaurant) Osteria Trattoria Agriturismo Maligù B&B Ligo regione Fascetti 5 Da Luciano via F.lli Cassiano, Marmoreo fraz. Ligo 24 Strada per Ligo via Roma 11 Ph. 339 6329191 Ph. 0182 582479 Ph. 0182 580461 Ph. 0182 582481, 335 6909374 www.maligu.it 392 3258747 www.villaggioceraunavolta.it Ristorante Antichi Sapori Hotel Ristorante La Pineta www.bebligo.it via Roma 76 fraz. Marmoreo 75 B&B Salvia e Rosmarino Ph. 0182 582201 Ph. 0182 74053 via Crose 51, Ph. 0182 582961 Garlenda 339 1764650 Hotel Ristorante Primosole 338 7340259 Town Hall Ph. 0182 580056 www.ristoranteantichisapori.info loc. Castellaro 40, Marmoreo www.salviaerosmarino.com www.comune.garlenda.sv.it Ristorante Garilinda Ph. 0182 74025 Frantoio Baglietto via Roma 121 Ristorante Agriturismo & Secco (oil, products in oil Agriturismo Ph. 0182 580059 Pinocchio and pickled olives) A Veggia Vigna Ristorante Pizzeria piazza Giardino 70/A via Roma 137 borgata Villa 28 da Ingaro Vèllego, Ph. 0182 74168 Ph. 0182 582838 Ph. 338 5235177 borgo Ponte 21 www.agripinocchio.it www.bagliettoesecco.it www.aveggiavigna.it Ph. 0182 580525 46 47 from a height of 200 TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP metres. Along the road to Moglio, rising up between The hills upon Alassio vineyards and woods, Agriturismo Garumba there is the crossroads (typical products) for Madonna delle Grazie strada Interpoderale Garumba church and hamlet. loc. Garumba Ph. 348 4490262 www.garumba.eu Tuna delightful

portion Agriturismo Palmero At the end of July the regione Palmero traditional village festival Ph. 0182 645504 of “Ventre” is organized 388 6159118 in Moglio. Ventre is a www.agriturismopalmero.it traditional dish as it’s realized with the dried Parco Avventura Solleone stomach of tuna that, (Adventure Park) till the first half of XX loc. San Bernardo century, the “tonnarotti”, Ph. 0182 645953 the Ligurians working in www.parcosolleone.it the areas for tunny-fishing of Sardinia, received in Pizzeria Ristorante Crocetta addition to the pay. At via Ottone I 115 Solva Moglio ventre is stewed Moglio Ph. 0182 469220 THE ALASSIO HILL Sun-kissed Solva clings at and served with a good a height of 110 metres glass of local Vermentino Ristorante Al Castello on the hill overlooking wine. loc. Madonna Alassio and the sea. A cascade of olive groves, pine trees delle Grazie 27 Ph. 0182 642873 and vineyards Sweet little snakes Vegliasco www.ristorantecastello.net They are called “biscette” In the charming hamlet The hill that surrounds the scenic Alassio bay is extremely steep. Ste- because they have the of Vegliasco the ancient Ristorante La Vigna ep and green, covered with elegant villas and rows of olive groves shape of little snakes. tower, symbol of the via Lepanto 1 and vineyards, not to mention the woods of chestnut and pine trees. They are typical biscuits of town of Alassio. Solva Among woods and cultivated land some small villages are like red Solva; they are prepared Ph. 0182 644744 spots amid the expanse of green vegetation. in march to celebrate Ss. 349 8903907 Annunziata , in order to The Guardia of www.ristorantelavigna.it remember a medieval Alassio legend. It’s the story On the top of Mount Ristorante Locanda of vipers and snakes Tirasso (586 m high) della Torre Antica invading beaches and there is the shrine of regione Vegliasco 29, Moglio olive groves of the area, Our Lady of the Guardia Ph. 328 9767731 finally turned away by the overlooking Alassio and www.locandadellatorreantica.com prayers of a hermit. its gulf; it was built on the site of an Early Middle Trattoria degli Amici via F. Airaldi 165 Ages guard tower of Moglio Moglio Albenga; inside there Ph. 347 8565789 Moglio is similar to Solva, are some seafaring ex www.ritrovodegliamici.com apart from the slightly voto. The large square more rural tone of its before the church offers a houses and alleys which wonderful view. look down upon Alassio

48 49 to the pass of San Giacomo The countryside of di , to the Ginestro Andora pass (677 m), to the peak From the sea to the Pizzo d’Evigno (989 m), or Alps Mount Arosio (839 m). The Around the lower course nearby Guerra pass was of the Mèrula stream once the ancient border stretches a flat country between the Republic of landscape surrounded by Genoa and the Kingdom scenic hills rich in history. of Sardinia. The territories of Tèstico and Casanova The villages of Andora Lerrone are crossed by the Castello di Andora stands route “Fischia il vento” , upon a hill to the left dedicated to the partisan side of the stream: it is Felice Cascione. a fascinating place. The small ancient houses, the impressive remains of the castle, the small early Five parishes for a star Romanesque church of San A five-pointed star is the Nicolò and the beautiful coat of arms of Stellanello, large Romanesque-Gothic a rural village of the church of Santi Giacomo upper Mèrula Valley with e Filippo create one of almost 700 inhabitants: in the most attractive places This hill, always dear 1305 it was granted the in Liguria. The ancient VAL MÈRULA to me… statutes of a city-state and hamlet of Colla Micheri is Tèstico has little more than a government composed situated on the The most western of the valleys 200 inhabitants, it is a hill of five consuls, one for hill, which can also be village stretched along each parish. Its territory reached from Andora. The of Riviera delle Palme the ridge that separates is dominated by the peak Norwegian navigator Thor the Lerrone Valley and the Pizzo d’Evigno (989 m) Heyerdahl lived here for At the western boundary of the Riviera delle Palme there is a nice Mèrula Valley, reachable and by Mount Ceresa over thirty years. Conna valley covered by the green of olive trees and woods; there are hills from Alassio by a scenic (913 m); from the higher has a medieval structure where you can see tapered belfries among the leafage of trees as proof climbing route or from meadows, covered with surrounded by olive Casanova Lerrone by flowered broom at the groves, holm oaks and of the presence of ancient and hospitable villages; these hamlets are crossing the Ginestro pass. start of summer, you can vineyards. Rollo is a hamlet linked by roads and trails that are really pleasant for bikers not in hurry. Its history began with paraglide or fly by motor that rises along the Andora the Romans, then the driven hang-glider. There hill. It has a wonderful view village was governed by are also good tracks of the sea and the plain. the bishop of Albenga, by for mountain bikes and the Doria family and by horseback riding. The plain of the Mèrula Savoy until it reached the stream present, with olive and A monumental oak Leave the coast behind chestnut groves to colour tree and, before confronting its landscape. In the woods of Stellanello, the hills of the upper valley, near the church of Santa you will find the Mèrula On foot and by bicycle Maria del Bosco, towers a plain, a fresh and peaceful on the battle fields majestic 200-year-old oak environment, crossed by The mountains of Tèstico tree, included in the list a clear blue stream, where are not short of trekking of monumental trees of frogs croak and birds nest. and mountain bike trails: Liguria. from Tèstico you can climb

50 51 TASTE, DISCOVER, SLEEP Angela Durante Ristorante Bar Laureri Agriturismo Gli Aromi (honey, oil), fraz. Duranti 12 via Roma 9, Ph. 0182 668012 strada Piangrande 31 Testico loc. Santa Maria Ristorante El Trocadero Ph. 335 6953540 Town Hall: Ph. 0182 668 091 Ph. 0182 668076 via Roma 3, Ph. 0182 668021 www.agriturismogliaromi.it www.comune.testico.sv.it Azienda Agricola Agriturismo il Glicine Azienda Agricola Castellana Barnato Francesca I Borghi di Andora via Divizia 29a, San Bartolomeo Federico (farm, oil) (farm, oil) Agriturismo I Cianelli Ph. 0182 80088 borgata Cà del Rosso 4 loc. Caio 12, San Damiano strada Comunale di Conna 29 [email protected] Ph. 338 6824886 Ph. 0182 668101 Ph. 329 3263726 Azienda Agricola Giordano Azienda Agricola e 380 9049045 338 9880408 (farm) Agriturismo Il Poggio Azienda Agricola www.agriturismoicianelli.it via del Santo 13, San Bartolomeo (oil, fruit and vegetables) Gagliolo Sandro (oil mill) Azienda Agricola Ph. 339 1124205, 339 3269492 fraz. Ginestro, loc. Poggio 6 loc. Casabianca 1 Cascina Praié B&B Il Frutteto Ph. 0183 273177 San Damiano (farm) strada Castello 20 via Merula 57e, Ph. 0182 85821 328 2211304 Ph. 0182 668148 Colla Micheri www.il-frutteto.eu www.agriturismoilpoggioginestro.it 338 3216315 Ph. 019 602377, 340 5052521 B&B La Ferraia Azienda Agricola Azienda Agricola www.cascinapraievini.it via Merula 57d, Ph. 0182 89256 Montanaro Corrado Ghigliazza Giulio (oil mill) Bar Osteria Colla Micheri www.laferraia.com (farm, oil) fraz. San Lorenzo 33/1 loc. Colla Micheri 13 B&B San Pietro fraz. Dani 14, Ph. 339 7711068 Ph. 338 3643736 Ph. 0182 499590 loc. Metta 1A, Ph. 0182 80507 [email protected] [email protected] 338 8767870 339 1292011 Azienda Agricola Bar Trattoria Merula [email protected] www.bbsanpietroandora.com di Riccardo Aicardi via San Lorenzo 36 B&B Il Corbezzolo Frantoio Artigianale Risso (oil, decorated bottles, ceramics) Ph. 0182 668010 loc. Garassini 13, Conna (oil mill) via Divizia 114 a via della Vittoria 3 B&B Da Giò del Merula Ph. 333 2769683 San Bartolomeo, Ph. 0182 86150 Ph. 338 3749404 frazione San Lorenzo www.ilcorbezzolo.info Fratelli Morro Azienda Agricola Ph. 346 9433167 B&B La Collina sul Mare (oil mill) Ricci Licia (oil) [email protected] via San Bernardo 3 via Divizia 33, San Bartolomeo via G. Marconi 2 B&B L’Iris Colla Micheri Ph. 0182 80079 Ph. 338 6039007 via Borgofiorito 14 Ph. 0182 499544 La Madrugada (riding school, [email protected] Ph. 0182 1966224 Pizzeria il Grillo Parlante dressage centre, Spanish school) Bar Ristorante U Baccan [email protected] castello di Andora loc. Piazza, Ph. 338 1214624 piazza IV Novembre 7bis Club Ippico Cavallo George via Castello 1 [email protected] Ph. 0182 668166 (horse club), loc. Bossaneto, Ph. 0182 85109 Ristorante Agriturismo La Tana 338 6039007, [email protected] Ph. 0182 668979 Ristorante e Brasserie via Argine Sinistro 22 Frantoio di Vittorio Sibelli Divizia Francesco la Casa del Priore Ph. 345 3961890 (oil mill) borgo Caselle 4 (oil, products in oil) via Castello 34, loc. Castello [email protected] Ph. 0182 668039 regione Borgonuovo 10 Ph. 0182 87330 (brasserie) Ristorante Basciaricò Ristorante Al Frantoio Ph. 0182 668374 0182 684377 (restaurant) via Molineri 52a loc. Dani, via delle Ville Frantoio Artigianale www.casadelpriore.com San Giovanni, Ph. 0182 80187 Ph. 0182 668034 di Mauro Mantello Ristorante l’Alpino Ristorante braceria birreria [email protected] (oil mill) frazione Albareto 19 via P. Cavassa 51, Conna Italo’s Ristorante Degli Amici Ph. 0182 668318 Ph. 0182 80037 via Divizia 15, San Bartolomeo piazza IV Novembre 6 Frantoio da Olive Ph. 0182 680601 Ph. 0182 668074 di Domenico Bestoso Piana del Mèrula www.italosandora.com (oil mill) fraz. Borgo Nuovo 26 Affittacamere Villa Cristina Ristorante il Pozzo Stellanello Ph. 0182 668031 (rooms) loc. Piazza 11b loc. Piazza 3, San Bartolomeo Town Hall: Ph. 0182 668 476 www.frantoiobestoso.it San Bartolomeo Ph. 0182 80143 www.comune.stellanello.sv.it Frantoio da Olive Ph. 0182 80613 Ristorante Peccati di Gola Agriturismo La Cicala di Simone Rossi (oil mill) 380 5033415 strada Piangrande 27 loc. Ciantà 2/3 fraz. San Damiano/Pilone www.villacristinaandora.it San Pietro, Ph. 0182 89260 Ph. 0182 86194 Ph. 0182 668085 Agriturismo Ca’ da Cera Trattoria da u Vescu 338 3855018 338 1275544, www.oliorossi.it loc. Piazza 28, Ph. 338 2953332 via Divizia 62, San Bartolomeo www.agriturismolacicala.com Ristorante Bar [email protected] Ph. 0182 680610 Agriturismo La Taggiasca Al Cardellino Rosso Agriturismo Domus Serena Trattoria Manin località Chiesa 14 fraz. Ciccioni, loc. S. Maria 21 strada Piangrande 31 via Molineri 23, San Giovanni Ph. 0182 86343 Ph. 0182 668520 Ph. 333 3931598 Ph. 0182 80011 www.agriturismolataggiasca.eu 348 0345856 www.agriturismodomusserena.it

52 53 54 55 Tourist Information Offices

Provincia di Savona Servizio Promozione Turistica ALASSIO (17021) Calizzano (17057) seasonal (17026) seasonal via Sormano, 12 Ph. 019 8313326 Fax 019 8313269 Via Mazzini, 68 Piazza San Rocco Corso Italia, 8 [email protected] Ph. 0182 647027 Ph. 019 79193 Ph. 019 7499003 turismo.provincia.savona.it Fax 0182 647874 Fax 019 79193 Fax 019 7499300 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] STL Italian Riviera [email protected] Albenga (17031) (17015) Ortovero (17037) www.visitriviera.it Piazza del Popolo, 11 Via Boagno Palazzo Comunale Via Roma, 79 Ph. 0182 558444 Ph. 019 990021 Ph. 0182 547423 Literature realised with funds of L.R. 28/06 Fax 0182 558740 Fax 019 9999798 Fax 0182 547423 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Albissola Marina (17012) Ceriale (17023) Pietra Ligure (17027) seasonal, Piazza Lam Piazza Eroi della Resistenza Piazza Martiri della Libertà, 30 Ph. 019 4002525 (promenade) Ph. 019 629003 Fax 019 4005358 Ph. 0182 993007 Fax 019 629790 [email protected] Fax 0182 993804 [email protected] [email protected] (17011) (17046) seasonal, Piazzale Marinetti, 1 (17024) Via G. B. Badano, 45 Ph. 019 4510948 Via San Pietro, 14 Ph. 019 724020 Fax 019 4510949 Ph. 019 681019 Fax 019 724020 [email protected] Fax 019 681804 [email protected] [email protected] Andora (17051) Savona (17100) Largo Milano Finalborgo Via Paleocapa, 76 r Palazzo Tagliaferro (Finale Ligure17024) seasonal Ph. 019 8402321 Ph. 0182 681004 Piazza Porta Testa Fax 019 8403672 Fax 0182 681807 Ph. 019 680954 [email protected] [email protected] Fax 019 6815789 [email protected] (17028) seasonal Bardineto (17057) seasonal Via Aurelia, 121 Via Roascio, 5 Garlenda (17033) c/o Centro Congressi Palace Ph. 019 7907228 Via Roma, 1 Ph. 019 7415008 Fax 019 7907228 Ph. 0182 582114 Fax 019 7415811 [email protected] Fax 0182 582114 [email protected] [email protected] The information contained in this booklet is in no way derived from advertisments. No responsibility (17028) seasonal Toirano (17055) is accepted for errors or omissions. Via Aurelia Laigueglia (17053) Piazzale Grotte Ph. 019 859777 Piazza Preve, 17 Ph. 0182 989938 Editing: M&R Comunicazione - Genova Fax 019 859777 Ph. 0182 690059 Fax 0182 98463 Texts: Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio [email protected] Fax 0182 691798 [email protected] Art Director: Alessia Massari [email protected] Maps: M&R Comunicazione Borghetto Santo Spirito (17019) Print: Algraphy - Genova (17052) LOANO (17025) Corso Matteotti, 56 Piazza Libertà, 1 Corso Europa, 19 Palazzo Beato Jacopo Photos: Archivio APT Riviera delle Palme - Regione Liguria, Archivio M&R, Archivio Provincia Ph. 0182 950784 Ph. 019 676007 Ph. 019 935043 di Savona, Fabrizio Calzia, Renato Cottalasso, Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio, Alessia Massari, Federico Fax 0182 950784 Fax 019 676818 Fax 019 935916 Panzano, www.lucianorosso.com, SOAMS Solva. [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

English translation: Translations in London, Servizio Promozione Turistica della Provincia di Savona. Borgio Verezzi (17022) (17017) Varigotti seasonal Piazza Italia, 2 (Finale Ligure 17024) seasonal This booklet is free, rights of reproduction must be obtained from the parties entitled. Via Matteotti, 173 Palazzo Comunale Via Aurelia, 79 Ph. 019 610412 Ph. 019 564007 Ph. 019 698013 © 2012, Provincia di Savona - Servizio Promozione Turistica Fax 019 610412 Fax 019 564368 Fax 019 6988842 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]