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An Exploration of Millinery Trends and Techniques

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An Exploration of Millinery Trends and Techniques AN EXPLORATION OF MILLINERY TRENDS AND TECHNIQUES Abstract: Historically, a mainstay of fashionable dress in the United States, the hat has long been a way for all people to express themselves within fashionable protocols. Many different methods of hat making and hat designs exist, ranging from simple kerchiefs to the high fashion fascinators seen most frequently at British Royal weddings, and beyond. In addition to an exploration of social trends regarding hats and headwear, this project will include the process of making different hats and explain the process, from research and pattern development to a finished product. 2020 KATHLEEN A. STOMPS UVA Drama Contents Introduction ............................................................................................................................................................................... 2 Bycocket, or Robin Hood Hat ............................................................................................................................................ 7 Jester Hat: ................................................................................................................................................................................ 10 Snoods, Hairnets, Cauls, and Crespines: Netted Hair Coverings: ................................................................... 12 Heart-Shaped Hennins and reticulated headdresses: ............................................................................................ 16 Coiled and Padded Headdresses: ................................................................................................................................... 19 French Hood: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 22 Romantic Bonnet: ................................................................................................................................................................. 26 Bandeau and Toque Hats—1880s-1890s ..................................................................................................................... 28 Cameo Tiara/tiaras and ballet headpiece: .................................................................................................................. 31 Fantasy Leaf Helmet from She Kills Monsters .......................................................................................................... 34 Half Hat: ................................................................................................................................................................................... 38 Conclusion: .............................................................................................................................................................................. 40 Images of Finished Products ............................................................................................................................................ 41 Appendix 1: Stitches ............................................................................................................................................................ 60 Appendix 2: Making the Hat ............................................................................................................................................ 63 Making a Wire Hat or Headdress: ................................................................................................................................ 66 Making a Felt Hat (flat felt): ............................................................................................................................................ 68 Appendix 3: Glossary of Supplies and Fabrics ......................................................................................................... 69 Bibliography ............................................................................................................................................................................ 80 Stomps 1 Figure 1: The Gold Mask of Tutankamun, displaying the Nemes Headdress of Ancient Egypt. The Egyptian Museum. .............................................................................................................. 4 Figure 2: Errol Flynn in The Adventures of Robin Hood (1938). ................................................. 7 Figure 3: Joker from Handa Deck of Playing Cards, Denmark. .................................................10 Figure 4: "Folie" from Album de Travestis, La Mode Nationale, 1920s. .....................................10 Figure 5: Fillet, Veil, and Wimple as worn by Maid Marion (Olivia de Haviland) in The Adventures of Robin Hood (1938). ............................................................................................12 Figure 6: Woman Blacksmith wearing a Crespine, Filet, and Barbe. From the Holkham Bible. 14th Century England. ..............................................................................................................12 Figure 7: Padme Amidala (Natalie Portman) as shown in Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones (2002). Designed by Trisha Biggar ................................................................................13 Figure 8: Vivian Leigh as Scarlett O'Hara and Clark Gable as Rhett Butler in Gone with the Wind (1939). Leigh is pictured wearing a snood. ................................................................................14 Figure 9: Effigies of Sir John Cokayne and his wife, Margaret Longford. Mid 15th Century, England. Margaret wears a typical Heart-Shaped Hennin. ........................................................16 Figure 10: Effigy of Infanta Beatriz, wife of Thomas, 5th Earl of Arundel. Mid 15th century, West Sussex, England. Beatriz wears a horned headdress and veil. .................................................16 Figure 11: Portrait of Philip the Good, c. 1450. Rogier Van der Weyden. Musee des Beaux-Arts, Dijon, France. ...........................................................................................................................19 Figure 12: Portrait of A Man, Jan van Eyck, 1433. The National Gallery, UK. ...........................19 Figure 13: Dolley (Payne) Todd Madison, 1817. Joseph Wood. Held by the Virginia Historical Society, 1967.14. ......................................................................................................................21 Figure 14: Two Views of a Lady Wearing an English Hood, Costume Study. Hans Holbein the Younger, c. 1526-28 or 1532-35. British Museum. ....................................................................22 Figure 15: Portrait of a Lady, Probably a Member of the Cromwell Family, Perhaps Elizabeth Seymour, c. 1535-40, Hans Holbein the Younger. Toledo Museum of Art. ................................22 Figure 16: From The Fashions of the XIX Century, 1836. Women Center and Left wearing bonnets typical of the time. Plate held by the New York Public Library in the Miriam and Ira A Wallach Division of Art, Prints, and Photographs. .....................................................................26 Figure 17: Woman wearing a Bandeau Hat, 1895. From La Mode Pratique, accessed through the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. ................................................................28 Figure 18: Toque Hat as pictured in Revue de la Mode, 1885. ..................................................29 Figure 19: Cameo Tiara from the Royal Collection of Sweden, 1804. Marie-Ettiene Ninot, Paris. .................................................................................................................................................31 Figure 20:Faberge Myrtle Spray Tiara, 1930s. From the collection of the Duke and Duchess of Westminster. From Munn, p. 299, pl. 268. .................................................................................32 Figure 21: Finished helmet for She Kills Monsters. ...................................................................34 Figure 22: Hats from a 1957 Alden's Catalogue. .......................................................................38 Figure 23: Bycocket Back .........................................................................................................41 Figure 24: Bycocket Side ..........................................................................................................41 Figure 25:Bycocket Top ............................................................................................................41 Figure 26: Jester Hat Proccess. Upper Right and Bottom Left are Actress Grace Bowie. ......................42 Figure 27: Crespinettes. Upper Left image is H. Thompson, J. Guarnieri (wearing French Hood), and J. Landini (wearing crespinettes) ......................................................................................................43 Stomps 2 Figure 28: Heart Shaped Hennin Front .....................................................................................44 Figure 29: Heart Shaped Hennin Side .......................................................................................44 Figure 30: Chaperone Side .......................................................................................................44 Figure 31: Chaperone side front ................................................................................................44 Figure 32: French Hood. Center Left is a portrait of Elizabeth Seymour, painted by
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