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Wave Data Recordin Pro Ram Gold Coast 5105 Wave data recordin pro ram $J.?.OO Gold Coast 1987-1997 I I ·- Conservation data report No. W14.2 Department of Environment QUEENSLAND ISSN 0158-7757 RE195October1997 GOVERNMENT Wave data recording program Gold Coast Region 1987-1997 Abstract Contents This report summarises primary analyses of wave data 1 Introduction recorded in water depths of approximately 12m and 2 Recording equipment greater, off shore near the Gold Coast Seaway in south­ 2.1 Waverider system east Queensland. Data were recorded using a Datawell 2.2 Wave pole system waverider buoy, and cover the period 21 February 1987 2.3 Station configuration to 28 February 1997. The data were divided into seasonal 2.4 Laboratory calibration checks groupings for analysis. No estimations of wave direction 3 Wave recording and analysis procedures data have been provided. 4 Data losses 5 Wave climate This report has been prepared by the Coastal 5.1 Methodology Management Branch, Division of Conservation, 6 Data presentation Department of Environment, on behalf of the Beach 7 References Protection Authority. 8 Other reports in this series Wave data recording program Appendices Gold Coast Region 1987-1997 Appendix 1 Details of wave recorder installation Appendix 2 Major meteorological events Disclaimer Appendix 3 Tropical cyclones of the east coast of While data in this report were collected, processed and Queensland compiled with reasonable care, the accuracy and reliability of this information are not guaranteed in any way by the Tables Beach Protection Authority. Neither the Queensland Table1. Wave statistics - wave period (Tp)/wave Government nor the Authority accepts liability for any height (Hsig) occurrences - All data, decision or actions taken on the basis of this report. all directions, measured in days. Table2. Wave statistics - wave period (Tp)/wave Copyright height (Hsig) occurrences - Summer data, © Queensland Government 1997 all directions, measured in days. Copyright protects this publication. Except for purposes Table3. Wave statistics - wave period (Tp)/wave permitted by the Copyright Act, storage, transmission or height (Hsig) occurrences - Winter data, reproduction of all or any part by any means is prohibited all directions, measured in days. without the prior written permission of the Department of Table 4. Wave statistics - Wave period (Tp)/wave Environment. Direct enquiries to the Manager, Education height (Hsig) occurrences - All data, and Information Unit, PO Box 155 BRISBANE ALBERT all directions, measured in percentage STREET OLD 4002. occurrences. Table s. Wave statistics - wave period (Tp)/wave RE195 October 1997 height (Hsig) occurrences - Summer data, Recycled paper saves energy and resources all directions, measured in percentage occurrences. Table 6. Wave statistics - wave period (Tp)/wave height (Hsig) occurrences - Winter data, all directions, measured in percentage occurrences. Figures Figure 1. Locality plan Figure2. Percentage (of time) exceedance of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) Figure3. Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave heights (Hsig) for all wave periods (Tp) Figure 4. Histogram percentage (of time) occurrence of wave periods (Tp) for all wave heights (Hsig) Figure s. Wave parameter relationships Figures. Daily wave recordings Figure7. Whole recording period single plot of wave heights (Hsig) Figures. Cyclone tracks Wave data recording program, Gold Coast region - 1987- 1997 • October 1997 •ISSN 0158-7757 1 Introduction (2.56Hz), are recorded in bursts of 4096 points (approximately 26 minutes) and recorded on the PC's hard As part of its long-term data collection program, the disk. The proprietary software running on the PC controls Beach Protection Authority (the Authority) has been the timing of data recording and processes the data in 'near recording wave characteristics along Queensland's coast since 1968. This has been done using a series of wave real time' to provide a set of standard sea-state parameters and spectra that may be accessed remotely via the public recording stations. This report summarises the primary telephone network. Recorded data and analysis results are analyses of wave data collected at the Gold Coast station. It also provides brief details of the recording equipment, downloaded daily to a central computer system in Brisbane for checking, further processing and archiving. the methods of handling raw data and the types of analyses employed. For more information on the buoy operation and recording systems, contact the sources listed in section 7. 2 Recording equipment The wave recording program uses two systems to Laboratory calibration checks measure wave data: the waverider system and the wave 2.4 pole system. Waverider buoys are calibrated before deployment and also after recovery. Normally, a buoy is calibrated once every 12 months. Calibration is performed at the Waverider system 2.1 Queensland Government Hydraulics Laboratory, using a The waverider system, manufactured by Datawell bv of buoy calibrator (ferris wheel) to simulate sinusoidal waves the Netherlands, uses a waverider buoy to determine sea with amplitudes of either 2m or 2.8m depending on surface fluctuations at an offshore location. Directional and whether a 0.7m or 0.9m diameter buoy is involved. The non-directional buoys are used. wheels are electrically controlled and the frequency may be varied from 0.016-0.25Hz. It is usual to check three In both types of buoys, vertical acceleration of the buoy frequencies during the calibration procedure. is measured by an accelerometer, mounted on a stabilised platform suspended in a fluid-filled plastic sphere at the The following characteristics of the buoy are also checked bottom of the buoy. This data is then twice integrated to during the calibration procedure: give displacement. • compass (directional buoy), • phase and amplitude response, The directional buoy also measures horizontal • accelerometer platform stability, acceleration, using two fixed accelerometers and an • platform tilt, onboard fluxgate compass to give the directional • battery capacity, and displacement in two horizontal axes. A transformatio � • power output. matrix is used to calculate these measured accelerations in north-south and east-west directions. The recorded wave data are not adjusted in light of the laboratory calibration results. Instantaneous water levels and directional data are then transmitted to a shore station as a frequency-modulated Waverecording and analysisprocedures high frequency radio signal. 3 From 21 February 1987 to 31 October 1991, wave data were generally recorded four times a day at 0300, 0900, Wave pole system 2.2 1500 and 2100 hours (Australian Eastern Standard Time). The wave pole system, manufactured by the Queensland During storm events, the recording frequency may have Government Hydraulics Laboratory, consists of a single, . been manually switched by the operator to record eight perforated metal pipe, surrounding an inner metal pipe times a day. that acts as a co-axial transmission line to the water. An enclosed circuit-board housing containing an electronic Since 1 November 1991, the PC based recording system oscillator is mounted on the top. This system is mounted has generally recorded data at (nominally) hourly intervals. vertically on a suitable offshore structure. During periods when the recorded Hsig value reaches the storm threshold of 2m, the recording frequency increases Relative wave height measurements are taken, based to (nominally) 30 minute intervals. on the principle that a sharp change in the electrical impedance of the wave pole occurs at the fluctuating water Recorded non-directional wave data are analysed in the and the period of oscillation is linearly proportional surface time domain by the zero upcrossing method and in the the length of the wave pole that is not immersed in water. to frequency domain by spectral analysis. Spectral analysis of the WAREP/DIMA data was performed by the Water surface elevations are recorded at the wave pole autocorrelation method, providing 50 lags at a spacing of and are transferred via radio modem to a remote data 0.02Hz. The PC based analysis uses Fast Fourier Transform recording computer. techniques to give 128 spectral estimates in bands of 0.01Hz. The zero upcrossing analysis is equivalent in both 2.3 Station configuration systems. In the original configuration of the Gold Coast station, first installed on 21 February 1987, the shore station Wave parameters resulting from this processing include consisted of a WAREP mark II waverider receiver and a the following: DIMA digitiser/recorder. The WAREP receiver controlled S(f) energy density spectrum. the timing of data recording and provided a paper chart Hsig significant wave height (time domain), the of the water level signal. Wave data were recorded by the average of the highest one-third of the waves DIMA unit in 20-minute bursts and digitised at 0.5 second in the record intervals (2.0Hz). The data were recorded on digital Hmax highest individual wave in the record (time cassettes and, along with the paper charts, transferred domain) to the Brisbane office for processing. Hrms root mean square of the wave heights in the record (time domain) On 1 November 1991, the wave recording system was Tsig significant wave period (time domain), the upgraded to a personal computer (PC) based system, average period of the highest one-third of using the Datawell DIWAR waverider receiver/digitiser. waves in the record The water level data, digitised at 0.39 second intervals 2 Wa ve da ta recording program, Gold Coast region - 1987-1997 • October 1997 •ISSN 0158-7757 Tz average period of all zero upcrossing waves location of the buoy and the water depth in which the in the record {time domain) buoy was moored should be noted. This information is Tp wave period corresponding to the peak of the in appendix 1. The non-directional waverider recording energy density spectrum {frequency domain) systam records only vertical movements of the water Tc average period of all the waves in the record surface, and any wave directions must be assigned to based on successive crests {time domain) individual wave records by other means.
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