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03. Nature andAdventure ISSN No. 2711-4317 03. naturE AND ADVENTURE 03 09 : a must-see destination Amazing landscapes, exciting experiences Contents

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Chiribiquete ISSUE 03 THE ANCESTRAL SECRET OF THE TEPUIS Text by María José Castaño Photographs by César David Martínez Nature and Adventure

With an area of 1,142 million km², Colombia is a Page 10 country nearly the size of and Germany For some, their relationship with the environ- Birdwatching combined. Besides its extensive territory, there is ment can be intimacy, quiet and rest; for others, a mountainous and hydrographic network, far-rea- approaching nature can also be intimate, but more Skies recovered during the post-conflict ching coasts in two oceans, islands, desert landsca- bodily, involving physical activities as well as adven- Text by Julián Isaza Illustrations by Cromalario pes and huge forested areas. Both the luggage and ture experiences. For the latter, those restless spirits the curiosity of the visitors must be open to deep and who feel the desire to climb a huge and imposing exciting contrasts from one place to another. rock when they see it, who sense the vibrant flow of This diversity of landscapes offers an equal the rapids and want to dive in and row, for whom Page 18 variety of experiences, tailored to the tastes and a mountain is both a place of contemplation and a Cycling Through Towns interests of each traveler... While regions such as challenge of rising conquest. For all of them, the the Pacific coast, the Amazon and the Coffee Cultu- different regions of Colombia are brimming with Bogota and its surroundings: ral Landscape are widely recognized for the richness emotion and challenges. A strong tourism, hotel mecca of American cycling of their landscapes, for some it might be less predic- and complementary services infrastructure related Text by Sinar Alvarado table that Bogota and its surroundings are also full to adventure and extreme sports is available for your Photographs by Camilo Rozo of ideal places to experience adventures in nature. enjoyment and safety. Two of the stories in this chapter start right there, in Mountains, , lagoons, rocks, coral reefs, Page 26 the country’s capital: a cycling mecca, the hub of a deserts, rainforests, unlimited flora and fauna.... More Nature and Adventure whole circuit of scenarios for adventure sports and the list would be endless and words would always home of endemic birds, which visitors can enjoy in fall short. Opening our eyes to the Colombian lands- Experiences in Colombia an unforgettable sighting experience without lea- capes turns us into witnesses of surprising contrasts ving the city. and active participants who interact with a generous nature that unfolds in all directions and goes beyond our borders.

introduction – 03 Chiribiquete

Guaviare, Amazon Region The Ancestral Secret of the Tepuis

Since she was a child, the author heard her father talk about a majestic territory, where nature was as extraordinary as archeological wealth. Years later, she traveled to the heart of the Colombian Amazon to discover Chiribiquete with her own eyes. 03

Text: María José Castaño Photographs: César David Martínez Nature and Adventure

04 – naturaleza y aventura Amazonas – 05 What can be found The lost world of the Chiribiquete mountain range Parks and to integrate it into the system of protected in Chiribiquete? was my favorite imaginary place as a child. I remem- areas,” he claims. ber, that when returning from this Amazonian However, he is proud that the real discovery was paradise, my father, Carlos Castaño Uribe, a Colom- to come across rock paintings on his first expedition bian-style Indiana Jones, was always bruised, loo- there in 1990. After climbing one of the rocks, he king like a shipwrecked man and so skinny that you found himself in front of an enormous rock shelter 2,138 60 46 60 189 89 plant reptile amphibian fish butterfly mammal couldn’t see him from the side. I was fascinated by with two huge and imposing jaguars. He has been species species species species species species his stories of that secret place nobody knew about. At in more than a dozen expeditions, accompanied by school, I would look for references of this place and the most renowned scientists who have been stud- since it did not appear in any encyclopedia or map of ying the flora and fauna. He has fully devoted him- Trees up to Indigenous communities the time, I doubted whether it was my father’s inven- self to archeology and the study of the cave paintings 70,000 50 M tion to amuse me or if the details he narrated were of this. Rock paintings Without contact with Western society HIGH just fiction to make me dream. Chiribiquete is a unique place on the planet. It is a protected area of Did you know that Other activities Crossed by the , the park is located between Chiribiquete is a UNESCO - Visits to the indigenous reserves bordering with the departments of Caqueta and Guaviare. It is one 4,268,095 hectares the Park, Yoga, the Devil’s Falls, the Araracuara of the best preserved places on Earth. The herba- World Heritage Site? which can be witnessed by tourists from aboard a plane Canyon ceous and the Amazon plain are home to animals and species scientists dream of studying. Destination 1: For the indigenous cultures, it was the center of the The pictograms found in Chiribiquete are findings How to get to the Serrania del Chiribiquete? world. The house of the Jaguar, which is the son of that provide us new ways of interpreting our his- Route: San Jose del Guaviare Destination 2: the Sun and the Moon: lunar white on the chest, tory: they connect our ancestors to diverse abori- DEPARTURE FROM THE One hour flight over solar yellow on the back. This feline and the Jaguar- ginal cultures throughout and the GUAYMARAL AIRPORT men are the protagonists of more than 75,000 Caribbean (from what is now to ). The Serrania del paintings found by my father on the rocks of Chi- same paintings appear in remote parts of the conti- IN BOGOTA Chiribiquete ribiquete. What is most surprising is that some of nent, showing evidence of a culture that unites us. them date back over 20 thousand years, which would It is believed that the shamans who painted on the be evidence of the oldest human habitation in Latin rocks were nomads who came from numerous pil- Costs: tours from USD 1,000 approximately America, according to Gonzalo Andrade, from the grimage routes. Since it is a sacred temple, no one National Institute of Sciences of the National Uni- can live there, just visit. versity. Why visit the More than thirty years ago, when my father was A Family Reunion with the Tepuis the director of National Natural Parks of Colombia, Colombian Amazon? this extraordinary place was was found by accident. As a family joke, we keep saying that, in addition to In 1986, he saw the monumental rocks of Chiribi- his four children, my father has a fifth favorite child more than 220 quete from a small plane, after they had to divert called Chiribiquete. I grew up listening to the stories 40,000 1,500 500 2.5 550 fish species their course to Leticia, capital of the department of about that enigmatic fifth brother, a mix between flora bird Mammal million Reptile among them the pirarucu, species species species insect species the Amazon, because of a tropical storm. None of living nature, majestic stone plateaus, rich, remote the largest , reaching 3 meters in length their navigation maps showed those plateaus, which cultures and thousands of paintings preserving their are three times the size of the Eiffel Tower and which own living past. I grew up wanting to meet him, but The extension of the Amazon Animals native to the emerged in the middle of a virgin jungle. That first we were too far apart and our family reunion wouldn’t 3 and gray , manatees, time, they just flew over and wrote down the coordi- take place soon. 6,700 Km 219,000 m , boas and black caimans in length of water and caiman of the aguajal nates of that place to which he would return so many times and on which he would work for the rest of Although I had heard my father talk about Chiri- What activities can you enjoy in the Colombian Amazon? his life, searching for a perfect formula to preserve biquete since I was a child, many years passed without 420 Expeditions through the jungle, sighting of the pink , sailing and protect it. Being called “the discoverer of Chi- a word about it. It was five years ago when he brou- Indigenous 86 650 along the Amazon River, getting to know indigenous cultures, watching ribiquete” makes him uncomfortable because he ght up the subject again, now with great discretion tribes languages dialects the Victoria Regia - a large floating plant-, touring Leticia, visiting Puerto Nariño, kayaking, canopy and tree climbing, visiting the island of los knows that probably many others traveled there and concern. I learned of his sleepless nights after Micos. before him, be they nomadic indigenous peoples, the Park went public with several articles published in settlers or explorers. “I just discovered it for Natural national media and a documentary about Colombian Remember: Chiribiquete can only be seen from the air in an unforgettable flyover experience.

06 – nature and adventure Courtesy Environmental Heritage Foundation Environmental Courtesy

The Giant Marmita, with a “crater” of 260 meters in diameter and rock walls over 60 meters high is one of the icons of the The rock paintings in this area date back nearly 20 thousand years. The jaguar is the protagonist, along with other Serrania del Chiribiquete powerful animal species.

flora and fauna. Curiosity about the area grew and with the particular characteristic of being a place that scheme the Park required. Besides having worked to the same indigenous tradition. It is not allowed to the way in which tourist dynamics began to develop almost no one has seen despite its immensity aand achieve the declaration by UNESCO, this careful work enter to avoid endangering the pristine state of its had to overcome the informality and the very com- the fact that it hides ancestral secrets inside its mas- has helped quadruple the size of the protected area. paintings and the indigenous communities. But plex conditions of access to this Amazon territory. sive rock plateaus. The feeling of respect for the tepuis My father has been very committed, almost today, like the shamans, Colombian people have That touching and unlikely landscape is both seduc- is overwhelming: they are as tall as the skyscrapers in radical, in the preservation of that cultural richness, their book and images to travel there from their tive and elusive, and its greatness also lies in that very Manhattan, but rising in the middle of a dense and which has survived mostly because of the difficulty thought, and arguments to demand their protec- same inaccessibility. It’s a privilege to be appreciated lush jungle, inhabited by rich fauna and flora, besides of reaching and entering the area. I was confron- tion and care from the government. without disturbing it. being home to intact indigenous cultures. You must ted by his position, because even though I admired When I met my older Amazonian brother, In 2018, I had the opportunity to join an effort see it from the sky, but even from high above, Chiribi- his sacrifice for the Park and his ability to keep quiet Chiribiquete, I felt that my family was finally com- to consolidate that preservation work. It was an quete seems to caress the clouds. about everything they found in these expeditions, I plete. When I saw it from above, all the images and archaeological expedition to gather material and was convinced that Colombian people had the right videos faded as I watched the most shocking thing I records that would serve as new arguments in favor On the Way to the Family Encounter with to know about it. No one takes care of something they had ever seen. When I got to see its cave paintings, of the postulation of Chiribiquete as a UNESCO the Tepuis don’t know about. Therefore, I began to brainwash thanks to the exceptional opportunity to be part of World Heritage Site. him, and also to change his ideas. Many had already a scientific expedition, I felt that an entire indige- We left on an hour-long flight from Bogota to In 2018, Chiribiquete was recognized as UNESCO tried: television channels, Colombian media and wri- nous people had embraced me from 20 thousand San Jose del Guaviare and then we took off on a plane, World Heritage Site in a special, mixed category ters. Nothing. It took me all the experience I got in a years away. And now, as I write these words, my eyes authorized by National Parks, to fly over Chiribiquete. that exalts both its natural wealth and its cultural strategic communication firm in order to achieve it. thank my father’s voice and I wish to be back flying Since an essential part of the preservation of this terri- relevance. It is an exceptional case, similar to that of I had lots of arguments. But the most important one among the clouds of the Amazon to fill myself with tory depends on keeping it intact, visitors can only Machu Picchu, in . This achievement synthesi- was that no one would take care of Chiribiquete if Chiribiquete once again fly over the area by plane to appreciate the majesty zed, in part, the long work and struggles carried out they did not understand how important it was. So, in of the jungle from above. During the first minutes of by my father for over thirty years. 2019, those three decades of research, that intimate that flight, I saw patches of deforestation alternating Those were years of patience and understanding relationship of love and knowledge that he has esta- with the jungle, but my hope returned as soon as I my father for his exaggerated dedication to his pro- blished with that remote Amazon, ended up gathered Find out saw a compact and lush green extending to the hori- jects with the Fundacion Herencia Ambiental, which in his book Chiribiquete: la maloka cósmica de los hombres more zon. From those 8,500 feet, I remember seeing for the he leads with his wife Cristal, socio-environmental jaguar(Chiribiquete: the Cosmic Maloka of the Jaguar-Men). here. first time the gigantic tepuis my father used to tell me projects with communities and indigenous people Today you can see Chiribiquete only from the about when I was a child: they emerged in the middle in the Colombian Caribbean, and the joint work with air, with permission to fly over from the Air Force of the vegetation as monuments of nature dedicated Natural National Parks, led by his successor, director and National Parks. Those who want to see the to the gods. The Serranía del Chiribiquete is amazing, Julia Miranda, who has been his ally and key figure to paintings can see them outside the Park, in Cerro as well as the entire Colombian Amazon region, but ensure continuity and to strengthen the special care Azul, a site adjacent to San Jose del Guaviare with

08 – nature and adventure Guaviare, Amazon Region – 09 Ensifera ensifera

Pharomachrus fulgidus Bird

Bogota and its Surroundings

Cardinalis phoeniceus Skies Recovered During the Post-Conflict Watching

In order to discover Colombia’s rich bird , you don’t have to leave the city. One November morning, in the heart of Bogota, an experienced reporter and a talented illustrator went out together to see the endemic birds of the 03 capital and discovered unexpected stories from around the country.

Text: Julian Isaza Illustrations: Cromalario Nature and adventure They are shaped like a boomerang. They pass by quic- *** kly. They make elliptical movements in the sky. They chase each other and their fast silhouettes, with their In just in a few meters we have observed four wings held back, resembling two MiG-15 planes in different species and that’s not only because of combat. “They’re called swifts”, explains Alejandro Alejandro’s sharp eyes and ears, but also because Pinto, a 32-year-old biologist from the National Uni- Colombia is home to almost 20 percent of the bird versity and the guide of this expedition who has been on the planet. Out of the nine thou- a “birder” for a decade. sand species in the world, a little more than 1,900 Chiroxiphia lanceolata It’s 5:50 in the morning, so the night has alre- are found in Colombia. ady gone, but you can’t say it’s daytime. A weak blue That’s why it is not surprising that this year, in light creeps across the sky, barely enough to distin- May, the country was the winner—for the third con- guish the shapes of the birds, the mountains or the secutive time—of the Global Big Day, a world event in glen. Just a few minutes ago we were traveling along which observers, experts and amateurs alike, go out to a winding dirt route, where the mist offered a milky watch birds and register their findings during one day. panorama and the lights of the truck barely allowed On this occasion, 1,574 species were sighted, while us to see a couple of meters ahead. It was the last Peru and ranked second and third, with figu- stretch to the buffer zone of Chingaza Park, the area res that reached 1,486 and 1,142 respectively. adjacent to the natural reserve. It was the final desti- It is precisely because of this enormous variety nation of a tour that started an hour and forty minu- that the country has great potential as a as a bird- tes earlier, in the city of Bogota. watching destination, to the point, that according Alejandro takes his equipment out of the to the Conservative Strategy Fund, this activity truck: a telescope, binoculars, a laser pointer and could attract 278,850 observers each year. Howe- a huge ornithology book. The water coming down ver, Alejandro says that, although he continuously the gorge sounds like loud static, while above, the provides his guide services for small groups of tra- swifts whistle intermittently and sharply. Alejan- velers, this industry is still incipient if compared dro watches them. The flight between of the two to that of other countries such as Ecuador, Peru or birds is agile; they make tight turns, get lost in the Brazil. Luis Ureña, owner of Manakin Nature Tours, vegetation and come out again. The biologist says agrees with that. He gives an example to to help us their name in Latin: Streptoprocne rutila. He also understand the path covered and the potential to says that it is a very common bird, so although it be developed: “For example, has been is beautiful and its flight is a show in itself, it is living off birdwatching for about 35 years and this not the main attraction of this visit, in which he— country is about 15 times smaller than Colombia, and therefore us—would like to see a yellow-eared and with half the biodiversity we have, but there can parakeet or, in scientific terms, a Pyrrhura callip- be two thousand people watching birds every day, tera, which is an endemic species, i.e., it only inha- while we, which are one of the largest companies bits the eastern mountain range of Colombia. in the country, can receive a maximum of 64 people We take a few steps forward and Alejandro during birdwatching season ”. points the laser towards some bushes. He sets up his tripod and focuses the telescope. Then he *** whistles and they respond from the bushes. There are two Myioborus ornatus, small birds with black Now, the cold Andean forest reveals itself with and yellow plumage on their body and a white patch the clarity of the day and is filled with a multitude on their face, which are known as candelitas cope- of songs. It’s 6:30 in the morning and we climb Manacus manacus tiamarillas. Then, we see a cucarachero pechigris up the trail until Alejandro stops. A little higher (grey-breasted wood wren) and immediately after, the whistle can be heard. It is a sequence of short we see a Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant with red plumage sounds as if someone repeatedly pronounced the on its belly. letter S or, better, like the noise made by a loose metal ring around a screw.

Colombia is home to over 1,900 bird species, which makes up nearly 20% of bird biodiversity in the entire world.

012 – nature and adventure Amazonas – 013 “It is a Hemispingus superciliaris or Hemis- biodiversity are located in territories that were pingo Cejudo,” he says, and then offers us the affected by violence and depended, to some extent, telescope focused at eight times magnification. on illegal economies. Through the eyepiece we can see the bird and also That is why foundations, investors and the the reason behind its name: it has a fringe over the State itself, are betting on developing projects with eye, like some kind of thick white eyebrow. The communities in remote areas, as they are doing, guide smiles. Watching birds, recognizing them, for example, in Playa Rica, in the department of collecting them in memory, is the very essence of Putumayo. A training process began there with the birdwatcher, who travels long distances to have the inhabitants and it will continue during 2020; Campephilus pollens fleeting encounters, to appreciate for an instant investments in infrastructure are also being made those elusive animals and complete lists of exotic to support a community that decided to take care of species that allow him to witness the colors and their natural resources and live from them. “There shapes that evolution and genetics have molded. are 22 families that live in a territory of 488 hecta- Luis Ureña sums it up like this: “It’s like completing res and most of them used to grow coca. Now they a sticker album. For example, I still haven’t seen the don’t hunt or have coca or cut down the forests for Black-necked Red Cotinga and that bird becomes livestock farming. my goal. That’s why people who come to see birds arrive with lists of 200 or 250 species and they get Did you know that an very excited every time they find a new one”. Each place has its own ‘stickers’ to complete endemic species is one that that album, and the rarest ones are of course the cannot be found naturally in most coveted. Alejandro insists that here, the main prize would be the brown-breasted parakeet, any area other than where it which we can hear now with its distant gurgling. has been recorded? The guide listens attentively and turns, then points to a small that opens out between the hills. We can see a small group of these animals, which They are now taking care of the ecosystem”, are just points in the distance. Alejandro takes his says Michael Quiñones, of the Quinti association, cell phone out of his pocket, opens a sound file with one of the entities that accompanies this process. bird songs and looks for the call of the parakeet. He The same could be said of communities in La plays it, but there is no answer. However, he knows Macarena, Meta, or Manaure, in Cesar, where 20 that we are close. former FARC guerilla fighters decided to set up Tie- rra Grata Ecotours, a travel agency that offers this *** type of tour packages. It is precisely with these projects that many What we are doing today, just less than a couple of ex-guerilla fighters have found an alternative hours from Bogota, started to be done in several to put into practice the knowledge they acqui- areas of the country some time ago, and there are red during the time they traveled through in the already several birdwatching routes that cover Colombian jungles, because, as Luis Ureña exp- regions such as the Andean, Pacific, Atlantic, Mag- lains, “since many of these people spent so much dalena Medio and part of the Amazon regions. time in the mountains, they learned from nature Although there are several challenges in order in an empiric way. Therefore, they became very to develop birdwatching, this industry not only good bird trackers, watchers or listeners. They promises to be profitable in economic terms, but have a talent they didn’t know they had. There are also in social and environmental terms. And that’s many of them in the Amazon or Caqueta and we because many of the places that offer the greatest work with some of them. ”

’Birdwatching’ is a leisure activity that takes a walking tour in search of different bird species, which are normally seen through binoculars or a telescope.

014 – naturaleza y aventura Bogota and its surroundings – 015 But birdwatching tourism not only offers Birds of Colombia them opportunities to work as guides, but allows them to play other roles in the same industry. They can also play other roles. Such is the case of Henry, who was in charge of the FARC telecommunica- tions in the south of Meta and today is in charge of transporting tourists in his truck. “It is an excellent source of income; you can have a good quality of life if you work seriously More than during the tourist seasons. 50,000 1,958 That’s how I can pay for my son’s university”, More than 50,000 bird species registered plant and he says and then adds: “It is a good way to move animal species forward in the post-conflict: having people wor- king in those areas, because they know them very Colombia is the country with the greatest well”. bird diversity in the world ***

We see a , then an and a Quetzal. A Quetzal is an extraordinary creature: its plumage is green on its neck and head, red on its torso, white on its tail. It seems to be covered by a shiny metal color. It is not endemic, but what does 80 135 1 endemic endangered extinct it matter, its beauty is unbelievable. species species species Then we see a beautiful woodpecker drilling into a tree trunk with its beak. Alejandro smiles Departments with the most again. We smile too. bird species

We go on. The guide doesn’t want to give up.. Cauca: 1,352 We climb up the trail and stop under a bunch of Meta: 1,116 Antioquia: 1,115 trees that shade the path. The determination of the Valle del Cauca 1,086 Choco: 1,041 guide has its reward: he has just heard, again, the Amazonas: 702 song of his parakeets. Alejandro puts his tripod on Atlantico: 515 the ground. He focuses. One, two, three parakeets get out of the hollow of a very high tree trunk. They Birds in Bogota are green with a yellow line on the edge of each wing. They stay perched on the branch. Then they To date, 235 bird species have been reported in take flight and disappear. The encounter is fleeting Bogota, 7 of them endemic species. in time, but everlasting in our memory.

The emblematic bird of this city is the rufous-collared learn more about sparrow Pyrrhura calliptera BIRDWATCHING here

Diverse ecosystems such as: 1. 2. Woodland parks and urban areas 3. Forests and rural areas

Brown-breasted parakeets are an endemic species and can only found in the eastern mountain range of the country.

016 – nature and adventure Amazonas – 017 Cyclists’Cradle

Bogota and its Surroundings: Mecca of American Cycling

A new history of the country is written in pieces. Besides the world cycling stars that have trained in the rugged national geography, a rich local culture revolves around these ‘steel horses’. Bogota’s strategic 03 location makes it an ideal cycling destination to conquer the mountains of its neighboring towns. Nature and Text: Sinar Alvarado Photographs: Juan Felipe Rubio adventure

018 – naturaleza y aventura Amazonas – 019 Cyclists arrive with their bicycles; they travel as and has evolved as a result of the cycling phenome- members of an ancient and viral cult, always deter- non; it is a human and economic ecosystem that mined to reach a new summit, and share their pas- would not exist without the bicycle. But its logic sion with a colleague. With the cyclists comes has grown so much that it now goes beyond the everything else: the appetite that must be satis- capital. fied after a hard ride; the need for a spare or a new garment; or the simple whim of taking something Did you know that Colombian home. Cyclists are passionate and gregarious ambas- geography allows cyclists to sadors who spread their inspiration wherever they ascend to more than 3,000 go. They are—we are—an international lodge, MASL, even in routes for almost always silent and benign, that conquers and transforms territories. beginners? Bogota is the beating heart of a nervous system whose fluid is made up of diverse riders. From that center, irrigated through countless The Alto de Patios is the oldest and most arteries, the sap travels to various points in obvious example of this process: a key point of the search of more and more land to cover. We, the conquest on two wheels. Patios used to be just a cyclists of the capital city, begin our trips within stopover on the road that leads from Bogota to the its borders, along the most extensive infrastruc- town of La Calera; with a fuel station, a toll and ture of the continent: 500 kilometers of exclu- a few street food vendors. But the seven-kilometer sive roads. But cycling is a constant craving, ascent became a training area for amateur cyclists: which every week drives us to go further and a series of quiet, easy and sometimes tight curves, further. which take a good half an hour to summit, and are visited by at least five thousand cyclists every Sun- The First Routes day. At least five thousand cyclists complete this tour. Upon arrival, a wide range of options opens By 2024, the bicycle business around the world, before the eyes of the struggling exhausted cyclist. which includes vehicles, clothing and accessories, Patios offers at least thirty stores where you will reach a total of USD 62 billion. The United can get a great breakfast: eggs with arepa stuffed States and Italy are the main bastions of this glo- with cheese from Boyaca, freshly-baked pandebo- bal industry, but Colombia has the fastest growing nos and almojabanas, empanadas, bagels, sand- industry in Latin America. The bicycle is part of our wiches, cakes, juices, sodas, energy drinks and, national spirit. above all, agua de panela, the Colombian drink From 1951, with the first Tour of Colombia by par excellence; the same that the first Colombian bicycle, the races drew the map of a country that cyclists who participated in the Tour de France was still unknown to its own inhabitants. Over the drank. Every Sunday, the Alto de Patios becomes years, attracted by that deed, many foreigners also a festival that lasts several hours, from early in the wanted to travel the vast Colombian geography by morning until well into midday. Hundreds of direct bicycle. and indirect jobs are created, and dozens of fami- In Bogota, the capital city, about one million lies benefit from this activity. cyclists go out to the streets every day and move around the city. On Sundays, when the main ave- Towards More Difficult Routes nues are closed, the number grows by a conside- rable number: more than ten percent of the total Through the Cerros Orientales, along the road to population goes out to cycle the roads. La Calera, cyclists can access different routes. Many The primary pathways of the cyclist’s nervous choose to climb the Alto de las Arepas, where they system are in the avenues of Bogota, where wor- stop for breakfast before riding back to Bogota. kshops for bicycles, cycling clothing sales, cycling There are about 50 kilometers round trip, from the shops of various sizes and much more are progres- International Center, the geographical and econo- In these towns the bicycle culture involves everyone equally: children, farmers, training athletes and professionals share sing and multiplying. This whole system emerged mic heart of the capital. these routes.

020 – nature and adventure Cyclists’ Cradle – 021 Bogota: Others, more ambitious and stronger, continue that says: “I reached the Alto de La Cuchilla”. a destination for cycling straight to an area called El Cruce, where there is another corner with places where you can have deli- The Craziest, the Most Beautiful El Alto de Patios cious empanadas, eggs, traditional soups, or diffe- rent kinds of delicious baked goods bakery before The Paramo del Verjon, located on the highest part 8 km. Altitude: 3.000 MASL. Cuchillas de Bocagrande Difficulty: easy. undertaking the way back. There are more options of the road that leads from the center of Bogota 29 km. Altitude: 2.790 MASL. El Paramo del Verjon Difficulty: medium. from El Cruce: go to Sopo and Briceño, two northern to Choachi, is probably the most beautiful of the 19 km. Altitude: 2.600 MASL. towns in the middle of the , and return on cycling ascents surrounding the city. The paved road Difficulty: easy. the highway to Bogota. Or choose the hard way back first runs through forests, crosses the gorge that along the same path. separates the sanctuaries of Guadalupe and Mon- What do bicycle tourism companies offer? The huge amount of visitors to El Cruce, show serrate, and leads to a plateau located 3,400 meters how cycling, a democratic sport, gathers and mixes above level. At kilometer 11 from Circunvalar all social classes. You can see mostly men, around Avenue, at a point called La Tienda, several food and their forties and fifties, wearing the finest clothes juice stalls are already successful, and cyclists stop Transport Accommodation Food Mechanic Service (international brands that cost several hundred there to recover burned calories. It is the busiest part to every site the at the best places in with personal cooking assistance on every cyclist wishes to visit Bogota services tour dollars), 80s uniforms that advertise hardware sto- on this route, but every now and then, on the side res and neighborhood pharmacies, or even informal of the road, new small businesses of local farmers teams sponsored by themselves. appear, offering typical cheeses, chicken and duck Guides and Cycling has become a meeting point for peo- eggs, corn cakes, more arepas roasted on charcoal, Assistance Road Maps Bicycle Rentals ple of all economic strata, and the road makes them guava snacks and natural drinks. provided by semi-pro to make the best of of the highest available cyclists on every tour available time quality equal. Friends and colleagues get together to do At the entrance of the Matarredonda park, sport, to relax; but also to do business that will be located at kilometer 18, there is a big restaurant, good for everyone. That’s why it is called ‘the new made of logs and boards, which is totally crowded Companies charge from USD 3,000 for these services, depending on what you are looking for golf ’: the event where important business alliances every weekend. Most of the clientele gets there by take place. But something relevant changes when bicycle. From that area, a few cyclists go down 23 you go from the clubs and the holes to the pedals: kilometers to Choachi, where they have breakfast in your stage is no longer a huge and private field. any of the restaurants, many of them also frequen- Adventure Here, the court is the endless route; the road, which ted by cyclists, before embarking on the tortuous bogota we all share in a less exclusive and more egalitarian return. in Bogota ceremony. There is no logical reason to submit to this From El Cruce, to the northeast, a high road type of torture, but the views offered by our moun- leads first to the town of Guasca, and then towards tains, and the canyons that divide them are truly 2. Alto de La Cuchilla, one of the most demanding worth the effort. The Italian cyclist Fausto Coppi, Il 1. 3. 1. ascents in the area, very close to the Tomine reser- Campionissimo once said: “The craziest deed is the 2. 4. 3. 5. voir. From the city, round trip, there are about 130 most beautiful deed.” Cycling is the quintessential 7. 6. 8. kilometers, with more than 2,500 meters of total Colombian sport, perhaps because of the intimate 9. 4. 5. 10. height difference along the ride. resemblance with the country: a feat made of sacri- La Cuchilla, in terms of infrastructure and alterna- fice and risk; rewarded for speed, the trip, adven- 6. 7. 11. tives for those who manage to get there, is the star- ture and pride of success after a persistent effort. 12. ting point of almost all cycling enclaves: a lonely To the west of Bogota, through 80th Street, 13. destinations wasteland. The first person who offers something which takes you out of the city and leads to Mede- 1. Nimaima is a young man who gets up there on his uncle’s llin, the second city in the country, most cyclists 2. Neusa motorcycle with a small basket full of sweets and ride in droves towards Alto del Vino and La Vega; 3. two red thermos bottles with coffee, nothing else. others prefer small towns such as Subachoque, La 4. Zipaquira The most famous Altos Recently, two or three minimalist entrepreneurs Pradera, Tenjo and Tabio. The area, very green, is 5. Guatavita 1. Alto del Sisga 6. Sopo 2. Alto del Vino have joined the boy, and they set up their tables and crossed by low traffic roads, between cattle farms 7. Subachoque bogota 3. Alto de Canica sell juices for the exhausted riders. At the top of the and crops grown in fertile soils. 8. El Rosal 4. Alto de la Cuchilla mountain, cyclists are welcomed only by these peo- It is a less competitive kind of cycling, more 9. Facatativa 5. Alto de Las Arepas ple under a blue billboard where Nairo Quintana, about the ride and contemplation; although it still 10. La Calera 6. Alto de Patios the “beetle”, most successful cyclist in the history of is demanding, because at least one hundred kilo- 11. Choachi 7. Alto el Verjon 12. Chipaque Colombian cycling, raises his arms under a phrase meters are covered in order to leave and return to 13. Fusagasuga

Cyclists’ Cradle – 023 the city. In the main square of Subachoque the cycling phenomenon has transformed the local economy, and there are many old hou- ses where local people sell all kinds of snacks for cyclists.

Towards the north, there are all kinds of ProColombia Photograph: places that attract hundreds of cyclists who love this part of the highlands—towards Chia, Zipaquira, or even —all week long, but especially on Sundays, but also on weekdays, who love to go to that area of the highlands; towards the Sisga reservoir, or towards towns such as Chia, Zipaquira or even Tunja. Almost all of these places promote their products and services through social networks, mainly on Instagram, with the app becoming an excellent platform to show- case Colombian and international cycling. Through increasingly better-produced ima- ges, men, women and commercial brands display the flashes of adventure and free- dom that this sport summarizes as a way of life. Cycling is beautiful when you watch it, although it hurts and demands a good phy- sical and mental condition of those who practice it. The relationship is based on the powerful magnetism that the pedals exert on us. Like the one that Bogota produces on this constantly growing mass of cyclists.

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Cycling is experienced daily with passion and pride. The so-called “beetles” are now world-class figures, admired by everyone.

024 – nature and adventure Cyclists’ Cradle – 025 miscellaneous More Nature and Adventure Experiences in Colombia Represented by its , its mountain ranges, its Sierra Nevada, its jungles and its rivers, the diversity of Colombia’s diversity is ideal for experiences related to nature such as bird and whale watching and cycling, among others. Dare to experience and enjoy them.

Agritourism Watch the whales that arrive at the Colombian Pacific between July and October every year to bear their young. Claro, Antioquia River Coffee Cultural Landscape You can also trek through the rainforest in order to spot Departments such as Caldas, Quindio, Risaralda and the most poisonous frogs in the world. Valle del Cauca offer accommodation in coffee farms where the landscape, tranquility, local cuisine, as well as Coffee Cultural Landscape (a species of the depths called “the monster”), as well Providencia and Santa Catalina the warmth of its inhabitants are the protagonists. The Practicing mountain biking in this region is an as countless fish of all sizes and colors. Two small islands form the third largest in visitor will be able to take walks through coffee plan- adventure, with bike tours through places such the world and the only one flanking volcanic islands. tations, spend days on horseback surrounded by the as the , an imposing natural lands- Gorgona Island The most popular dive sites are La Chimenea, La Tor- sound of waterfalls and birdsongs. Theme parks such as cape in a valley decorated with palm trees up to 60 It is known as the “science island” for being a living tuga, Felipe’s Place, Tete’s Place, Manta’s City, El Valle Parque del Cafe and Panaca promote the values of local meters tall . High mountain tourism also stands laboratory visited by researchers, eco-tourists and de las Esponjas, El Planchon and Table Rock, where culture and offer entertainment for all ages. out in the Los Nevados National Natural Park, divers who find there a great sanctuary of biodiversity. you can see nurse sharks, white tip reef sharks, black- with walks to the peaks and the snow summit at Besides observing turtles and humpback whales that top sharks and gray sharks. Boyaca 5,300 meters. arrive between July and October, you can walk along It is a region of beautiful farms and country houses paths and visit the ruins of the old penitentiary and the Sport Fishing surrounded by rose and carnation crops planted with Santander pier, the eco-store and the archeology hall. potatoes, barley, vegetables and wheat, which give life Due to its rugged topography, the practice of water The Pacific Ocean to this place of rural tradition with colonial churches and and land adventure activities is its greatest attrac- Capurgana and It offers experiences for fly fishermen and other catch peaceful villages that rise in the middle of the country- tion. One of the most impressive places in the coun- These are two villages of white sand and very and release activities, in which large tunas, sailfish side. The vineyard of Puntalarga is between the munici- try is here: the , where you can azure waters that combine the Darien jungle with and swordfish are, among others, the protagonists in palities of Duitama and Nobsa, where you can enjoy its go hiking, mountaineering, rafting and rappelling. the Colombian . The best season a scenario dominated by the humid famous wine Marques de Puntalarga. On the other hand, the municipality of is the for diving is between May and November, when of Choco. cradle of adventure activities in the country, where fascinating underwater life can be observed in more Adventure caving can be practiced in places such as La Cueva than 70 dive sites. Orinoquia and the Amazon del Indio where you get in by rappelling and the tour It is an entirely different world dominated by rivers Cali ends with an exciting leap of faith inside the cave. San Andres without commercial fishing exploitation, where con- In the capital of Valle del Cauca, wind activities are The island is surrounded by a multicolored sea with tact with communities and nature is part of the pro- the most prominent. In the municipality of Roldani- Diving coral reefs where you can appreciate colorful fish gram. These regions have the best places for sport llo you can practice paragliding, and at Lago Calima, species such as the butterfly fish, the butterfly -pea fishing of butterfly peacock bass and payara. with some of the strongest winds in the world, sky- cock bass, the bull ray and the Blowfish, as well as surfing and windsurfing are practiced. It is an island located in the westernmost point of seahorses around the gorgonian corals, rays and Colombia and surrounded by eleven cliffs. It is in the barracudas. Recommended dive spots include La Choco list of the 10 best places in the world to see hammer- Caleta de Jose, La Calera, Las Piedras de la Lobsta, In the Choco region you can surf in a sea surrounded by head sharks, white tip sharks, whale sharks, Galapa- Tortuga Trap, Nirvana, Bowle View, Wild Life, La a rainforest, you can also gos sharks, silky sharks and the small tooth sand tiger Rocosa and El Avion.

026 – nature and adventure Miscellaneous – 027 Nature and adventure

Mountains, rivers, lagoons, rocks, coral reefs, deserts, rainforests, an infinite flora and fauna... the list would be endless and the words would always fall short. Opening your eyes to Colombian landscapes turns travelers into witnesses of surprising contrasts and protagonists of exciting experiences amidst that generous nature that unfolds in all directions until it goes beyond our borders.