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Romantic Tales of Central Bohemia Dear Visitors

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Romantic Tales of Central Bohemia Dear Visitors Central Bohemia Tourist Board Romantic Tales of Central Bohemia Dear visitors, We have selected for you ten of the most interesting love stories, spanning times ancient and modern, featuring castles and other locations in Central Bohemia. Through these tales retold you can visit bygone times and en- gaging places in Central Bohemia and explore true love stories that brim with emotions, setbacks and struggles against prejudice. Discover the happy and less-than-happy tales of ladies and gentlemen, their affairs marital and extramarital. You can read about composer Antonín Dvořák and his Muse; about the love affair between two intellectuals – the Czech writer Karel Čapek and the actress Olga Schein- pflugová; and follow the loves of notable Czech monarchs. We trust this tourist guide will inspire you to visit the historical settings of these romantic tales. Follow the trail of true romance and let it work its charm, as you explore the Central Bohemian region. I wish you the most pleasant of romantic experiences. Nora Dolanská, Director of the Central Bohemia Tourist Office Photos opposite:: The Emperor Charles I with his wife and children at the Austro-Hungarian officers’ parade in Italy Karel Čapek and Olga at the beginning of their acquaintance Portrait of Sophie Chotek Antonín Dvořák with his family and friends at Vysoká u Příbrami Contents Map of locations featured Map of locations featured 3 3 More for your sake than mine 4 8 (Zita of Bourbon-Parma) 2 1 5 A Free-spirited Miss 6 (Zdenka Braunerová) An over-emancipated Lady 8 (Barbara of Cilli) 10 4 7 The Composer’s Muse 10 6 (Josephine Čermáková) 9 Central Bohemia Anything goes, except marriage! 12 (Sophie Chotek) 1. Brandýs nad Labem Castle A Czech Noble Queen 14 (Joanna of Rožmitál) 2. Central Bohemian Museum in Roztoky The Muse of Poets, Writers and Painters 16 3. Mělník Castle (Sidonia Nádherná) 4. Konopiště Castle A Marriage of Convenience and Devotion 18 (Polyxena of Lobkowicz) 5. Poděbrady Castle A Godsend of a Woman 20 6. Antonín Dvořák Memorial (Olga Scheinpflugová) 7. Vrchotovy Janovice Castle Bella Philippina 22 (Philippina Welser) 8. Nelahozeves Castle 9. Březnice Castle 10. Karel Čapek Memorial 3 MORE FOR YOUR SAKE THAN MINE Charles I of Austria (1887-1922) met the love of his Their wedding took place in 1911 – the wedding life, Zita of Bourbon-Parma (1892-1989) on a visit ceremony was even recorded on film, by the found- to Františkovy lázně (Franzensbad). The couple er of the Austrian film industry, count Alexander came through the unexpected; becoming Kolowrat-Krakowsky. The newly-weds returned Emperor and facing the First World War. from their honeymoon to the Château at Brandýs, where they were welcomed by a multitude in the The Hapsburg Archduke Karl Franz Josef was called- tens-of-thousands. Here, they passed an all-too- up after his studies at the University of Prague in short marital idyll, as the assassination of Archduke 1908 to be a Lieutenant of the Dragoons Regiment Franz Ferdinand d’Este on 28 June 1914 completely in Brandýs nad Labem. He moved to the wonderful changed the lifestyle of the archduke and duchess. local Renaissance château, where all the sovereigns of the Hapsburg dynasty had resided in their turn, Charles unexpectedly stepped up to being the Heir over the centuries. to the throne, and took over after the death of Empe- ror Franz Joseph I in November 1916. Charles I was A few years later, he met the attractive Zita, in Fran- enthroned at a very difficult time, and after the zensbad. This lissom young woman with her hair outbreak of WWI spent time on the Russian and in a bun was often likened to the Empress Elizabeth the Italian front. He was one of the few monarchs for her good looks. Charles, the second in line to to take part in the fighting personally. His wife fear- the Austro-Hungarian throne, was being urged into lessly accompanied him and made the rounds marriage and Zita had the proper regal lineage. But of hospitals to cheer up wounded soldiers. her feelings took a full two years to develop, before Charles proposed. On her engagement photo, Zita As Emperor, Charles led numerous reform- and added her catchphrase: ‘More for your sake than mine.’ peace negotiations. He consulted with his wife It came to be the motto of her life, full of ups and downs. on all important decisions and much appreciated her presence at the meetings. His political services and statesmanship ended with the fall of the mon- archy. Following the confiscation of all Hapsburg property, the former Emperor was sent into exile (in 1919). He died three years later, aged not quite 35, on the island of Madeira, where he is also buried. His 30-year old widow never again dressed in anything but black and her new mission in life was to bring up her eight children, the oldest of whom, Otto, was being groomed for Imperial office. Zita returned to Austri- an soil only in 1982, but never again saw her beloved Brandýs. She witnessed almost a century of history, and was interred in the Imperial Hapsburg crypt in Vienna upon her death in 1989. Brandýs nad Labem Castle Plantáž 402 The Emperor Charles I with Zita and their son Otto after 250 01 Brandýs nad Labem the Hungarian coronation in 1916 www.brandyszamek.cz 4 5 A FREE-SPIRITED MISS Her partnership with playwright Vilém Mrštík, She was the first woman of the 19th century whom she supported and worked on illustrations to reject the role of women as good mothers of his works, ended just short of marriage. and housewives, and instead embarked The painter also had a stormy relationship during on an artistic career. Although she charmed many the short visit to Bohemia of Auguste Rodin, which notable men and had several love affairs, she went beyond her being a guide and interpreter never found Mister Right. for the famous sculptor. To round off the tally of interesting men in her life, there was the affair with the much younger translator, Miloš Marten. All the men in her life had something in common – they were complicated intellectuals. A number of the affairs blossomed in the painter’s Studio in Roztoky u Prahy In the latter half of her life, Zdenka ceased to split her calendar year between Paris and Prague and settled down in the grounds of a mill, bought by the Brauner family. Here she built a Studio in the style of an English country house, an archi- The Zdenka Braunerová Studio, Roztoky u Prahy tectural project of her own design. Zdenka Braunerová (1858-1934) grew up in a family She devoted herself to oil paintings, illustrations of the renowned Prague patriot, the lawyer Fran- and graphics, also designing and painting on glass, tišek Brauner. She was a forceful character, and and decorating furniture. This Czech painter, graphic altogether far too self-sufficient and independent artist and book designer stood out in many fields, for a woman of her time, raising eyebrows with but her free spirit was in many respects ahead her lifestyle. She completely failed to live up to of her time. This modern European, her life awash the traditional idea of womanhood, and was the with the breaking of wild waves, charmed many first Czech woman to make her living through art. men of several generations, but never found true love. She departed, resigned to the fate Zdenka showed all-round talent already as a child, of an unattached maid. but preferred to paint, and at twenty went with her mother to Paris. This magical and unrestrained city You can enjoy an impressive Zdenka Braunerová was to become her lifelong love. And just imagine, exhibition to this day, just a few dozen yards from the Académie Colarossi admitted women students, the castle in Roztoky u Prahy (the seat of the Cen- too! Zdenka’s professional painting career led to her tral Bohemian Museum) in the renovated Studio, first exhibition and first successes. with numerous original pieces, paintings and antique furniture. The young woman also had the first in a series of love-affairs in Paris, with the Czech painter Antonín Chittussim, who opened her eyes to land- Central Bohemian Museum in Roztoky scape painting. Another relationship, with the poet Zámek 1 Julius Zeyer, never got beyond platonic friendship. 252 63 Roztoky www.muzeum-roztoky.cz 6 7 AN OVER-EMANCIPATED LADY the death of Sigismund of Luxembourg, Albrecht One of the less harmonious marital relationships was elected King. Barbara was released, by the de- was that between Barbara of Cilli, Holy Roman cision of the Joint Congress of the opposing nobility Empress, Hungarian and Czech Queen, and Em- and the cities, in Mělník. peror Sigismund of Luxembourg. Two years later, the widowed Queen had all entitle- Barbara of Cilli (1390/95-1451), daughter of Herman ments duly restored to her. She settled at Mělník of Celje, became the second wife of Emperor Sigis- in the summer of 1441. Thanks to her being resident, mund of Luxembourg (1368-1437), a major European the city revived and came to prominence, prospering monarch, in 1408. The marriage was advantageous economically. Important gatherings took place here, to Sigismund, who got a very beautiful, brave Barbara remained active on the political scene and passionate woman, as chroniclers agreed. and assisted with the election of her grandson, Their marital relationship was not too harmonious, called Ladislaus Posthumus, as Czech King. however. A year after they wed, their only daughter, Elizabeth, was born. Barbara of Cilli died at her seat in Mělník during a plague epidemic in 1451.
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