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Florida Keys America’s FloridaText and photos by Lawson Wood Keys — A Haven for Wrecks 8 X-RAY MAG : 76 : 2016 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Florida Keys Statistics show that more There are great encounters with divers opt for this particular diving Americans dive in the US large critters like manatees. And destination? of course, the further you travel state of Florida than any south towards the Florida Keys, Artificial reefs. Some of the largest other place on the planet, the more the country is influenced artificial reefs in the world have but when you consider by the might of the Gulf Stream. been sunk off the east and west what is on offer, it is hardly There is great ease of access down coasts of Florida, and particularly to the Sunshine State. More than along the eastern and southeastern surprising. The state’s anything else, Americans are able flanks of the Florida Keys. The state government has been to experience almost the full range tourism agency, Visit Florida, which instrumental in sinking of Caribbean-style diving without is responsible for the promotion of some of the world’s largest leaving the country or need of a the Keys, is so switched on that it has passport. an annual advertising budget which (so-called) artificial reefs, There are very good quality coral surpasses most large multi-national but there are also freshwater reefs, albeit a 20 to 30-minute ride companies. Such is their power, that pools, caves and caverns offshore, a huge wealth of marine it is no wonder tourists make their life, and I can honestly testify to the annual pilgrimage to a long string with a constant warm water fact that I can see more different of sand bars connected by bridges, temperature all year-round, varieties of Caribbean reef fish here which are really only appreciated in which certainly appeals to than most other locations in the Hollywood blockbuster movies. winter divers. Caribbean. All well and good for the This tourist board will do (almost) Americans, but why should foreign anything to get divers down, and Moray eel (above) on Duane wreck (above and top left), Key Largo, Florida Keys, USA PREVIOUS PAGE: Diver under bright yellow cup coral decorating the Eagle wreck, Islamorada, Florida Keys 9 X-RAY MAG : 76 : 2016 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Vandenberg wreck (right); Caribbean reef fish on City of Washington wreck (below); Octopus on Duane wreck, Key Largo (bottom right) that includes sinking a large number of derelict ships out in the 36m (120ft) range at the confluence of the eddies, which are A perfect view from both sides of the isle. produced by that constant flow of the Gulf Stream. This nutrient- and plankton-rich current is so full of microscopic marine life, that in Join our school. hardly a blink of an eye, the ships sunk as diver attractions are soon covered in a patina of marine organisms and the ubiquitous reef fish that love those environments, including horse- eye jacks, trevally, barracuda, chromis, creole wrasse, hamlets, snapper, grunt and parrotfish. Civil War. And, as always, ships that get wrecked in shallow waters are not only salvaged extensively, they are always pounded incessantly by the storms, which rumble up this coast from June to November each year. However, it is those ships sunk as diver attractions that are a “must-see” for most divers, and I can honestly say that I agree with them! Shipwrecks. Not only are there artificial reefs—old ship hulks sunk as tourist attractions—there are also the remnants of the Spanish treasure fleet, which foundered on the shallow shoals and sandbars around the Keys. These ships carried so much wealth back to Spain that only 10 percent of their cargoes ever reached the “Old World,” and that 10 percent Even if you hated biology class you’ll love learning to dive in bankrolled the country for over 300 years. If you have The Florida Keys. In just three days you can be certified by time in Key West, go and check out Mel Fisher’s share the world’s best instructors. Before long, you’ll go down with of what was brought up—whilst he was still alive—and the ships and come face-to-face with thousands of different what is still being brought up today from the Nuestra species on America’s only living coral reef. Señora de Atocha. That of course leaves the other 90 percent of the fla-keys.com/diving Spanish treasure ships still to be found, many of which are recorded as coming to grief upon the shallow reefs of the Florida Keys. There are also ships dating back to the American 10 X-RAY MAG : 76 : 2016 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel FLORIDA silver Gulf of Mexico USA Key Largo US CIA WORLD FACTBOOK US CIA Florida Bay Islamorada Dry Tortugas Key West Marathon Atlantic Ocean USF / WHOI / MBARI / NASA / PUBLIC DOMAIN Satellite map of the Florida Keys (above); Diver on shotline of Vandenberg wreck, Key West (below) Dry Tortugas Mississippi River coupled with out the three or four miles to where South of Key West, at the very the permanent current of the the reefs and wrecks are, if the end of Highway 1, you can take a Gulf Stream, combined with the weather is in any way inclement. small seaplane or boat trip out to might of the trade winds and the There are those companies the Dry Tortugas, the very tip of the periodic, yet fairly predictable who will get you out there, and sandbars that created the Florida hurricanes and tropical storms that they will tailor the diving to the Keys. The snorkeling here around experience of the diving Fort Jefferson—a former Civil War group. This may exclude prison—is excellent and seems so some divers for the safety far away from the rather hectic of the whole group; and road that connects the rest of the in all cases, the diving is Keys. set to the lowest common The Florida Keys are roughly denominator, with safety fishhook-shaped and are really first and foremost at the top cinema of dreams an eons-old result of the massive of the list. Decompression outflow of water from the diving is discouraged on any of the deeper wrecks, and indeed frowned upon; and dive guides will cajole you along to many of the best bits of reef or wreck to see, before you have to pile even more sand ascend to the obligatory safety and coral debris stops on the mooring lines. That is onto the shores of not to say that they are wrong, but the Florida Keys. sometimes I would just like to stay Needless to say, a little bit longer. virtually all of the Some of the diving done in the diving undertaken Keys has the potential, really, to is well offshore, and challenge technical divers; but most of the smaller with the great care taken in the diving operators up sinking of the artificial reefs, the and down the Keys diving experience is the same as it www.seacam.com will just not venture can be for everyone concerned. Dive boat, Pennekamp State Park, Key Largo 11 X-RAY MAG : 76 : 2016 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Florida Keys THIS PAGE: Scenes from the General Hoyt S. Vandenberg wreck off Key West with divers and and the snorkelers, but all of this super- diving involves fairly safety lengthy boat rides. conscious dive General Hoyt S. leaders will Vandenberg wreck. make sure From Key West, the they get you back safely and in plenty Even in rainy, windswept conditions wreck of the General of time. and in relatively rough seas, I was Hoyt S Vandenberg, Large pelagic schools of fish are kind of reminded of venturing out once used as a film the norm here, and there was even into Scapa Flow, but the ship lying prop for a Hollywood an unconfirmed but very confident underneath me was in waters very epic, sunk in 2010 is sighting of a great white shark the much clearer than in Scotland, so undoubtedly the star week before I arrived! With its huge much warmer, and being able to see Key West attraction. This former troopship and American flag constantly flying from huge vistas is staggeringly superb with What better place to start than at the missile tracker has two huge radar its superstructure, the ship is becoming plenty of photo opportunities. Bob southernmost tip of the Continental dishes on either side of her deck. colonized at a rapid pace. Turtle, Holston and his wife Ceecie at Dive United States, and coincidentally, on At 156m (520ft) long, it can take a barracuda, scores of tuna and jacks Key West are very much the driving the largest of the ships sunk along the number of dives to get your bearing surround the ship, and most divers will force behind the sinking of this ship and Keys? The Dry Tortugas to the south, and really appreciate the scale of the do a twin tank dive just to get a flavour its promotion, as it takes a lot of time where the amazing Fort Jefferson is ship. You should expect some current, of the amount of superstructure that is and effort to get to Key West to do this located, have always been a favourite but the ship has several mooring buoys, underwater.
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