At Southwick, you can see the church of St Basingstoke The Tudors beyond James. Rebuilt in 1566 by John Whyte (a Basing House servant of the Earl of Southampton), it is a Winchester rare example of a post-Reformation Tudor TUDORS Andover church and well worth a visit. The interesting Journey out of Winchester a few miles and you will find these Explore Winchester’s Tudor history and thing about the church is its date. At a A303 Farnham interesting places with Tudor connections. time when churches were either being torn Alton test your knowledge of the period Before her wedding, Mary travelled to Winchester from down, or their decoration removed, here is London, staying with Bishop Gardiner at his castle in Farnham A34 a church that was newly built. It is especially M3 and then on to his palace at Bishop’s Waltham. This medieval A33 noteworthy for its three-decker pulpit, its Alresford A31 Winchester A3 palace stood in a 10,000-acre park and had been a favourite gallery, reredos (screen behind the altar) and hunting spot for Henry VIII. Bishops occupied the palace until box pews. There are monuments to John Mottisfont the early 17th-century when it was destroyed during the Civil Whyte (d.1567) and his wife (d.1548). A272 Petersfield War. The extensive ruins are worth a visit today, and events are Romsey sometime staged there. Tel: 01962 840 500. Did you know? Old Basing House, home of the Lord Treasurer, William Paulet, M27 was a huge castle, converted in Tudor times into a large Henry VIII is said to have had over 70,000 Bishop's A3 people executed while he was king. Waltham private house. Mary and Philip were A31 Winchester had its own gallows sited to the Southampton Wickham entertained there after their north of the town, off the Andover Road. Southwick M27 Parish Church wedding. The house, like many At the Jolly Farmer pub there is a list of CChChichesterichester others, was damaged in the Civil names of people executed. Beaumond (see A326 8. How would you city map) was the place where people were War and fell into ruins covering A337 Calshot describe a formal burned at the stake. Mary I’s route from London about 10 acres. Today you can Castle Portsmouth garden? Can you to Winchester see the remains of Tudor kitchens, name any of the towers, and a recently recreated Southsea Philip’s route to Winchester plants that they Castle Hurst Castle early 17th-century formal might contain? Wedding party's route back garden. Tel: 01256 467 294. to London To the south is the famous seaport Isle of Wight Palace Cathedral / Mansion Castle Abbey of Portsmouth, where in 1494 Henry VII built a square masonry tower. The map shows the area around Winchester A year later he added a dockyard where royal warships could and places of interest be built and repaired. Fifty years later, Henry VIII built Southsea relating to the Castle at the harbour entrance. It was from here that Henry saw Tudor period. Towns mentioned in this disaster strike his ship the Mary Rose: she sank in Portsmouth leaflet all appear on Harbour. You can see her now in the Historic Dockyard, this map. In 1485 Henry VII became the first king of the Tudor Portsmouth. royal family. Times were unsteady during this period Bishop’s Waltham Palace with the end of the war of the Roses, Black Death The south coast and the Solent in Quiz answers and the Hundred Year War, causing Winchester to be particular had to be protected against 1. 10 is X; 50 is L; 100 is C; 500 5. Winchester has no local stone 7. Mills were, and still are, used in a steady decline. However a succession of Tudor the marauding foreign ships and is D; 1,000 is M. Try writing other than flint. Most of the for grinding corn. The wheels Monarchs still favoured Winchester choosing for key 1554. square stones came from the were made of wood, and 9. A famous Tudor Calshot Castle and Hurst Castle were King_Alf 2. There are 25 knights. Some of Isle of Wight, which is about later ones of stone, quartz events to occur here, follow this leaflet to see what you sailed around the both positioned to do just this, Calshot 45 kilometres away. The being the best material for its the names are Sir Galahad, Sir KingAlf can discover about Tudors in Winchester. world in aship called at the entrance to Southampton Lancelot du Lac, Sir Gawain, stones were part of the two hardwearing quality. If you would like this leaflet in a Winchester Golden Hind. Water, and Hurst Castle further west. Sir Mordred. Can you add to abbeys, Hyde and St Mary’s, 8. Formal gardens are laid out in larger format, please contact the the that were torn down during the What was these? a precise way. Plants would visitor information centre KingAlf Further inland, Mottisfont Abbey stands time of Henry VIII. include herbs that were spread Winchester his name? 3. Richard III (Battle of in beautiful countryside near the famous Bosworth); The Merry Wives 6. The stone-built cellar on floors to improve the smell 01962 840 500 of Windsor; Henry VIII. was fireproof so this is of a house. [email protected] River Test. Originally a 12th-century priory, it where the merchant kept his 4. All the niches are empty. The 9. Sir Francis visitwinchester.co.uk expensive goods. Because Drake was made into a private house after Henry VIII’s statues were removed along stone was expensive, the split with the Catholic Church. Tel: 01794 340 757. with all other images of God living areas were made of or the saints in human form. wood and plaster. Similar empty niches can ? Check restrictions at be seen on the east face of visitwinchester.co.uk Westgate. visitwinchester.co.uk ©Winchester City Council - October 2020 It’s time to enjoy your Winchester. Tudor monarchs Henry VII Elizabeth Did you know? r.1485–1509 of York One of Henry VII’s favourite houses was Winchester Castle After its Tudor decline Winchester would not flourish again WOLF HALL until the 19th century when the railway was built. where his first son, Arthur, was born and then christened at Arthur in Winchester the cathedral, the first Tudor royal d.1502 Winchester’s historic cityscape makes ceremony to be held in the city. m.(1) m.(3) m.(6) it a popular film location for period When Arthur died, Henry’s Henry VIII Catherine m.(2) Anne Boleyn Jane Seymour m.(4) Anne m.(5) Catherine Catherine dramas. The city provided a backdrop second son Henry VIII became r.1509–1547 of Aragon executed 1536 d.1537 of Cleeves Howard Parr divorced divorced executed 1542 d.1548 for the acclaimed Tudor drama Wolf king. Probably best known for 1. How good are your Hall (2015) – adapted from books having six wives, Henry VIII Roman numerals? by author Hilary Mantel. Winchester caused a great political and m How are numbers Philip II Mary I Elizabeth I Edward VI religious upheaval when he Cathedral, the Great Hall and the 10, 50,100, 500 of Spain r.1553–1558 r.1558–1603 r.1547–1553 split from the Catholic Church d.1598 Hospital of St Cross (a medieval and 1,000 almshouse) all offered convincing of Rome and established the Church of England, thus giving written? settings for various scenes. The next Tudor to come to the throne was Mary I – a Catholic who him the freedom to remarry. became known as ‘Bloody Mary’ because she imprisoned Protestants Why not book a walking tour that In 1522, Henry entertained the King and burned 300 at the stake. Her marriage to Philip II of Spain, takes in some of Winchester’s of Spain and Holy Roman Emperor, another Catholic, was unpopular. They married in Winchester, part of famous landmarks from the Tudor Charles V, the reason being that there was less likelihood of a riot there than in times? Winchester’s Tourist Guides at Winchester Castle’s Great Hall, when Charles was able London. The wedding took place on 25 July 1554: a grand ceremony run a special Tudor walking tour on to look at the newly painted Round Table with its central in Winchester Cathedral, but a miserable marriage. request. Visit Tudor rose and portrait of King Our last Tudor was the great Elizabeth I, the second daughter of winchestertouristguides.com Arthur. Henry VIII. Her reign, sometimes called a Golden Age, began in or contact Winchester Visitor The painting is a real bit of Tudor 1558 until her death in 1603. She was a determined leader in Information Centre on dangerous times, totally committed to her role as queen, so one-upmanship. Arthur in the 01962 840 500 How many Knights picture looks like the bearded Henry, much so that she ordered the execution of her cousin – another 2. for details. of the Round Mary – Queen of Scots. and Arthur’s fame had spread Table are there? throughout Europe and formed Can you name an integral part of the Chivalric Claire Foy as Anne Boleyn on set at the Hospital of St Cross in some of them? Code. The point being made by the Winchester during the filming of Wolf Hall. © Company Pictures/ picture is that Henry could trace his Mary & Philip’s wedding Playground Entertainment for BBC. Photograph by Giles Keyte family back to King Arthur and then 25 July 1554 – St James’s Day to the emperors of Ancient Rome. This (patron saint of Spain)

was further back than Charles V who at that time was Holy Roman Emperor. The position of the Tudor In July 1554 Philip sailed up the Southampton rose motif at the centre of the painting emphasises Henry’s Water to Southampton, whereupon Mary called legitimate right to the throne. ‘all noblemen, gentlemen, ladies and others’ to Winchester for the wedding. She moved to When Henry VIII died in 1547 his son Wolvesey Castle in Winchester as Philip travelled Edward VI, aged nine, became king. to the city, stopping off at the Hospital of St Cross During this short on the way. He entered the city through Southgate reign – he was fifteen when he 3. About this time to the sounds of trumpets, bells and cannon shot. Detail from a portrait of Queen Mary I by Hans Eworth, (1554) (NPG 4861) died – his religious policies led Sixpence, called ‘The William Shakespeare Later that day, he met Mary for the first time where to the arrest and imprisonment Kissing Coin’, issued to was writing. a courtier pronounced her ‘old, badly dressed and mark the wedding of in the Tower of London of many Can you name any of almost toothless’. However, the wedding took place, Mary and Philip leading Catholics. Amongst these his plays relating with the cathedral hung with tapestries and banners were the Bishop of Winchester, to the Tudors? that covered the damage caused by Henry VIII’s men during the Stephen Gardiner, and the Warden religious conflict known as the Reformation. The King and Queen of Winchester College boys’ school, then set off along the Roman road to Basing House, 20 miles north Dr John White. of Winchester. A month later, Philip left for Spain, returning three Detail from a portrait of Philip II, King Spain after Titian, (1555) (NPG 4175) years later for a few months before leaving again, forever. Mary died Damian Lewis as Henry VIII on set in Winchester during the filming of Wolf Hall. visitwinchester.co.uk shortly after. Images of Philip and Mary courtesy of the National Portrait Gallery, London © Company Pictures/Playground Entertainment for BBC. Photograph by Giles Keyte THE WINCHESTER TUDOR TRAIL

Mark Rylance as Thomas Cromwell on set in Winchester during the filming of Wolf Hall. © Company Pictures/Playground Entertainment for BBC. Tudor Wintonians Photograph by Giles Keyte. The schoolmaster who could dole out punishments In 1535, Dr John White was appointed headmaster and The streets of Winchester then warden of Winchester College. In Edward VI’s reign The royal wedding of Mary and Philip in 1554 brought about he was sent to the Tower of London for his religious beliefs a intensive clean up of the city. Streets were cleaned and ‘le but released by Mary I and made Bishop of Lincoln, and rubbishe’ carted away. Heralds were paid for ‘proclaiming’ later, Bishop of Winchester. He commissioned a painted the King and Queen on their entry into the city, the town ceiling in celebration of Mary’s wedding. You can see this was decorated with flags and the Queen’s trumpeters, ceiling in the Westgate. He carried out Mary’s religious footmen and men-at-arms all received gifts of money. policies and had Thomas Benbridge burned at the stake. Hotels and inns Broiled and burned – Tudor Winchester had over 100 inns and alehouses and so another victim of religious was well able to cater for the guests at Mary and Philip’s intolerance wedding (a number that probably doubled the city’s Thomas Benbridge was a population). Most of the inns were on the north side of Hampshire landowner. When he the High Street, near the Buttercross, while most of the refused to attend Catholic Mass alehouses and taverns were opposite them, including one he was found guilty of heresy behind the Buttercross called ‘Hevene’ and next to it one Speed’s Map of Winchester, 1611. Speed’s Map of Winchester was drawn seven years after the death of Elizabeth I in 1603. The city walls and Castle (32) are called ‘Helle’. still standing. Hyde Abbey (2) and St Mary’s Abbey (8) have been levelled and most traces removed. The cathedral (31) has lost its cloisters. and sentenced to be burned to The Bishop’s residence of Wolvesey Castle (25) was by then in ruins and is not shown. death. He suffered two attempts to burn him before he died. The Buttercross Bishop John White, as he was At the heart of the city centre, now pedestrianised, this The Soke The Westgate then (see above), was partly medieval monument is a traditional meeting place for responsible. Wintonians (people of Winchester). Originally known as the This word means an One of five medieval gates, this was the main entrance City Cross, it was first mentioned in 1427. It was from here administrative area, in this into the city. The two stone shields on the west front that the mayor would read out public announcements and case under the Bishop rather were a sort of noticeboard where the coat-of-arms of give news of royal births, marriages and deaths. than the Queen. In Tudor times important visitors were painted on. In the Westgate Detail of a woodcut from the Soke on the east of town 6. Why do you think Museum you can see Dr John White’s painted ceiling, as Foxe’s Book of Martyrs was one of the richer areas of the bottom part of well as Tudor objects. Winchester. a Tudor building is stone, and the In St John’s Street you’ll find top is wood and Winchester Castle and the Great Hall A victim of Henry VIII’s a good example of a Tudor plaster? One of the strongest fortresses in Britain, started in 1070 change to Protestantism merchant’s house (now by William the Conqueror, the Great Hall was built in 1222 Elizabeth Shelley was the last privately owned). Opposite is and is one of the finest surviving medieval halls. In 1603, the church of abbess of St Mary’s Abbey. the year Elizabeth I died, the courts moved here from After she surrendered the St John’s in the Soke whose Westminster to avoid the plague. It was here that the one- 4. Look at the west front abbey to Henry VIII’s men in accounts in 1591 show that the sum of 3 of Winchester Cathedral? 1539, the nuns were expelled shillings was spent on ‘drinking and the time favourite of Elizabeth I, Sir Walter Raleigh, was tried What is missing that tells and found guilty of plotting with Spain against England. us something about the and Elizabeth continued to live ringing’ of its bells to celebrate the visit religious conflict there in almost uninhabitable The ruins of the Bishop’s The City Bridge with the City Mill behind of Elizabeth I. started by Henry VIII conditions. She is buried in the Castle of Wolvesey and known as the Reformation? chapel of Winchester College. Littleton Kings Worthy KEY Wolvesey Castle 1. Butter Cross 2. The Soke Since Saxon times, the bishops of Winchester 3. Westgate D HARESTOCK A South Downs lived here. More a fortified residence than a 4. Winchester Castle O ABBOTTS R National Park Easton 5. Great Hall Y A Catholic with good 6. Wolvesy Castle BARTON H castle, it was here, in 1554, that Mary I stayed T 7. City Mill R O before her wedding to Philip of Spain, and intentions A 8. St Mary’s Abbey W 5. Walk around the College N 9. St John’s Hospital D O this is where she held her wedding banquet. Ralf Lamb was a member of area and look for the V S E T R O Aldi R After that, the Bishop Gardiner’s household checkerboard-effect C O K A B Waitrose D who attended Mary and garden walls, known R building gradually ID as ‘diaper work’. GE Philip’s wedding. His portrait RO Winchester fell into disuse. AD WEEKE Rugby Where doyou think River Itchen Winnall shows him dressed in Spanish Football Club Industrial the stones TEG DOWN Estate and City Mill style, painted by a Spanish E Retail Park came from? N A River Park Itchen Way artist. He left £400 to St John’s L Mentioned in the 7. A water mill is Y Leisure Centre H T Winnall Moors Hospital (opposite the R E Tesco Domesday Book, used for what? O Nature Reserve AN Peter T SEE CITY CENTREW MAP L S E N Guildhall) to buy houses for TO Symonds E O the mill was one What are the C R ST K College T A The Buttercross B S E the city’s poor. With this R wheels made of? I E E D of 13 in the city. G D

U E 3 R Y money, St John’s purchased N D T H E M E C E Reflecting the I R 23 V T T A Y the building now known as S RO S N U AD E decline of P N L O P OR T T the Dolphin in the High Street E H A T W R E A L LL E S W Winchester in

H R U O N I I (there is a stone dolphin Oram’s T O B FULFLOOD G S CITY N

L H

Royal Winchester S I Arbour Henry VIII’s time, Y

T S R

H WINNALL carved above the door). The Golf Course T CENTRE R

W E

C

E E University of Winchester J the mill was neglected and ceased working. Hospital’s Lamb and Flag coat 3 HIG T West Downs Campus H 2 STR HILL T EE N The site was given to the city to help pay for the S T E A of arms can be seen on the St LR D 1 L ESFORD A E ROAD RO B A MSEY Military T RO O 4 D A A R DW cost of Mary and Philip’s wedding in 1554. The Thomas Street frontage of the G G A

Y Winchester Science Centre Museums 5 7 A 5 H 8 M ST GILES’ HILL T Cathedral Visitor mill was eventually restored in 1743. Dolphin, now an off-licence. U H O Information S 9

A+E Westhill T E

Cemetery E

Royal Hampshire R

T St Mary’s Abbey

County Hospital S 6 South Downs Way

Portrait of Ralf Lamb,

L D University of I This was one of the main nunneries in England. A S dated 1554. On view at O Winchester E R D H Y A C the Westgate. E SLE Abbess Elizabeth Shelley (see Tudor Wintonians S EPE O HIGHCLIFFE RS R M HILL O E R T in this leaflet) gave up the house to Henry VIII A SLEEPERS HILL G Itchen Way S Winchester G and soon after it was abandoned. Mary gave the B N College The Tudor House on S I A T K The treasurer who did a U-turn A R BAR END land to the city to help cover her wedding costs. N St John’s Street MO E RE N William Paulet, 1st Marquess LA D D Garrison OMB LANE N A CHILC E R 3 The site is now occupied by the Guildhall, and O Sports Ground O G Water M of Winchester, served as Lord R A A Stadium LO R Meadows D

Hursley W Abbey House is the residence of the Mayor of E S N STANMORE R S I Treasurer of England under three S ER T O A R Winchester. N B M C Park & Ride A Tudor monarchs. At first he was D OR South Downs G T E E LA R NE S O National Park R A firmly against Mary’s marriage FA D St John’s Hospital R M BADGER ST CROSS to Philip of Spain, and was heard R D FARM Hospital of Founded by the city’s merchants in 1294 to to swear that he would ‘set St. Cross

M care for the elderly and unwell, it was this upon’ Philip when he landed. He Sainsbury’s St. Catherine’s O R River Itchen Hill Itchen Navigation E hospital that Ralf Lamb gave money to (see S later changed his opinion and T E Clarendon Way Itchen Way AD Tudor Wintonians). Under a city charter issued entertained the wedding party at OLIVER’S R Portrait of William OAD by Elizabeth I in 1587, St John’s Hospital was Old Basing on their way to London. BATTERY 23 Paulet, Lord Treasurer N run by the city until 1829, when it became an and 1st Marquess of independentM charity. O Winchester. On view at Shawford Hockley Viaduct & R E S the Guildhall. T E The Round Table in the A D

Great Hall R

O

A D