REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020

Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An Ayurvedic Perspective Prima Stanly1, K. V. Asha2 1Final Year Post Graduate Scholar, 2Professor & HOD, Department of Agad Tantra, VPSV Ayurveda College, Kottakkal, Kerala, .

A B S T R A C T

People in every civilization used to protect and embellish their skin, which naturally leads us

to conclude that this is a primordial need. The demand of cosmetic products have increased in recent times, resulting in massive production without following any standard guidelines. Many of them contain dangerous ingredients such as Hydroquinone, Talcum, Parabens, Phthalates, Fragrance, Heavy

metals like Lead, Arsenic etc. Studies have shown that about 50% skin fairness face creams available

in India contain steroids. Due to long term use, it accumulates in the body and can cause irritation,

increased susceptibility to infections, Kidney and Liver damage, Reproductive toxicity and

Carcinogenicity. In Ayurveda, the concept of Gara Visha can be well incorporate with Cosmetic

toxicity. Acarya Susruta mentions about various Gara Visha Adhishtanas and its different manifestations. The widespread use of cosmetic products is increasingly recognized as a public health and social justice issue due to the deleterious health side effects and the potential reinforcement of

racial and social inequalities. So this article review the concepts of Cosmetic toxicity in Ayurveda, their prevention and management.

Key words: Cosmetic Toxicity, Gara Visha, Parabens, Talc, Heavy Metals.

INTRODUCTION beauty products. Now there is an increase in demand Skin fairness has been understood to be a cultural of organic, herbal and Ayurvedic products. The trend marker of class, wealth, beauty and social status for is primarily a result of growing health consciousness. centuries. Global cosmetic market values about US$ The advertising industry in particular is argued to play 58.6 billion in 2018 and the market is expected to a significant role in reinforcing and capitalizing on [1] grow annually by 6.4% (CAGR 2019-2023). The cause stereotypical notions of caste, age, race, and beauty. of this unbelievable growth may be the rising Due to this, nowadays the use of cosmetic products disposable income, growth of upper middle class are increasing worldwide. But here comes the population and increasing awareness about the question. Do all the cosmetics we are using safe? Address for correspondence: The demand of cosmetic products ranging from skin-

Prima Stanly lightening creams, deodorants, , , Final Year Post Graduate Scholar, , etc. have increased in recent times, Department of Agad Tantra, VPSV Ayurveda College, Kottakkal, Kerala, INDIA. resulting in massive production without following any E-mail: [email protected] standard guidelines. Government reports in the US Submission Date: 12/09/2020 Accepted Date: 05/10/2020 and EU indicate that about 90% of the ingredients Access this article online Quick Response Code used in cosmetics are not safe for people in the long- [2] Website: www.jaims.in term. In Ayurveda, the toxic cosmetic ingredient can be correlated with Gara Visha (artificial poison) and symptoms of cosmetic toxicities can also be well Published by Maharshi Charaka Ayurveda Organization, Vijayapur, explained under various Gara Visha Adhishtanas Karnataka (Regd) under the license CC- (source of Gara Visha). by-NC-SA

Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | Sept - Oct 2020 | Vol. 5 | Issue 5 297

Prima Stanly et al. Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An Ayurvedic Perspective

ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020

HISTORY OF COSMETICS Breast cancer

The word cosmetics derives from a Greek word- Fragrance Almost all Good smell Clogs cosmetics lymphatic ‘Kosmeticos’ which means art of dress and ornament. system FDA defines cosmetics as the substances which are Endocrine intended to be applied to the human body for disruption cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or Organ system altering the appearance without affecting the body’s toxicity structure or functions. Around 10000 BC Egyptian Talc Absorbent Lung tumour were started to use scented oils and creams. Around Blush Ovarian 840 BC Romans and Greeks started to use cosmetics. Baby powder cancer They used lead ore and copper to improve the complexion and ochre clays and red iron as . Deodorant Later the toxic lead combo was replaced by zinc oxide. Face powder While coming into the Indian cosmetic history, use of Formaldehyde Nail products, Preservative Cancer turmeric, kajal, preparations were more Hair dye, Fake prevalent at that time. They used different kinds of oil eyelash adhesives, for massaging and used butter/ ghee to protect the lip from cracking. To improve complexion and to fight against acne Chandana (Sandal wood), Agaru (Agar), Phthalates Fragrance Solvent and Headaches, fixative in Asthma, Nimba (Neem), Kumkuma (Saffron) etc. were used.[3] Perfumes fragrances Dermatitis, Deodorants Classification of Cosmetics Denaturant Endocrine disruption, Cosmetics can be broadly classified into 4 categories; Liver/Kidney/ Lung damage,

1. Skin care cosmetics - , toners, Cancer , creams, lotions, sunscreens etc. Lead Lipstick Contaminants Cancer 2. Hair care cosmetics - shampoo, conditioners, hair Hair dye Neurotoxicity spray, gel etc. Mercury Mascara Contaminants Allergen 3. Colour/ make up cosmetics - , , some eye Impairs brain compact powder, , mascara, , drops development lip stick, etc. Sodium Lauryl Used in Surfactant Eye and skin

4. Fragrance/ perfumes Sulfate (SLS, foaming irritation SLES) cosmetics such [2],[4],[5] Depression Table 1: Major toxic contents in the Cosmetics as shampoos, Liver damage cleansers, Content Product Purpose Toxic effect soaps. Cancer BHA & BHT Moisturizers Anti-oxidant Endocrine Toluene Solvent Reproductive disruption Hair dye Colouring & Cancer agent development al damage DEA-related Moisturizers Thicken the Cancer Liver and ingredients Shampoo aqueous portion Kidney damage Parabens Body lotions Preservative Endocrine Oxybenzone Sunscreen Protects from Contact Diaper wipes disruption

Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | Sept - Oct 2020 | Vol. 5 | Issue 5 298

Prima Stanly et al. Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An Ayurvedic Perspective

ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020

UVB rays allergies, Jwara (fever), Mamsanam Daranam (deep seated photo ulcers) etc. Mukhalepa Visha produces symptoms allergies similar to that of Abyanga Visha with additional Endocrine disruption symptoms like Syavamukha (blackish discolouration of Organ system the face) and thorny eruptions like those found in the [8] toxicity Padminikantaka (lotus flower).

p- Hair dye Colouring Skin irritation, DISCUSSION phenylenedia agent Liver toxicity mine Ayurvedic management of Cosmetic toxicity Birth defects

Cancer Samanya Chikitsa (general management) of Gara Visha is mainly Sodhana (purifactory therapies) - CONCEPT OF GARA VISHA Vamana (emesis) and Virecana (purgation). Along with this Hridayavarana treatment (protection of As per the classics, Gara Visha is mainly an artificial Heart), administration of Swarna (gold), Samana poison which can be prepared from the combination Prayogas (palliative treatment) can be utilized.[9] But of substances which are not poisonous in nature or in case of cosmetic toxicity, Samana therapies weak poisons. It can be drugs, chemicals, (palliative) will be more useful than Sodhana incompatible foods, alcohols, body parts of insects therapies (purifactory). Because usually we are etc. It causes physical, psychological and social issues. identifying cosmetic toxicity of immediate nature like According to Cakrapani, “as it takes much time for urticarial reaction, allergic dermatitis etc. So Samana digestion Gara Visha is always Cirakarirogajanaka” (palliative therapies) will be more apt for this (which does not endanger life soon).[6] But Vagbhata condition. Here we can use both internal and external says that the symptoms may manifest immediately/ therapies with drugs having properties like Pācana after some time/ after long time.[7] In case of cosmetic (promoting digestion), Deepana (kindling digestive toxicity also, the signs and symptoms usually manifest fire), especially with vishshara (anti-toxic) properties. in different time periods. Some cosmetic ingredients According to the condition, we can use internal produce immediate effects like non-immunological medicines like Lodrasevyadi Kashaya, Guluchyadi allergic contact dermatitis, immunological dermatitis, Kashaya, Drakshadi Kashaya, Murvadi Churna, contact urticarial syndrome etc. eg: Benzoic acid, Dushivishari Gulika, Dasanga Gulika and external Cinnamic acid, Cinnamal, Methyl nicotinate, SLS, medicines like Pathyakshadathryadi Kshalanam Formaldehyde etc. On long term usage some (pouring of medicated water), Neelidaladi Keram, produces toxic effects like endocrine disruption, Paranthyadi Keram, Sigrupunarnavadi Lepam, reproductive toxicity and carcinogenicity. eg: Kottamtakaradi Churnam, Triphala Churnam etc. Gara Parabens, Fragrance, Triclosan, Phthalates, Talc etc. Adhishtana treatment can also be incorporate in Gara Visha Adhishtanas (source/ mode of poisoning) suitable conditions. Susruta mentions about various Gara Visha Prevention Adhishtanas. Some of them have direct link with 1. Healthy life style cosmetic toxicity like Abyanga Visha, Anjana Visha, Parisheka Visha, Anulepana Visha, Mukhalepa Visha 2. Attitude etc. If collyrium is poisonous, it will produce Daha 3. Natural methods (burning sensation), Vedana (pain), Drshti Vibhrama The best prevention strategy is to maintain a well (visual difficulties) and Andhyam (blindness). Abyanga regulated life style. A balanced nutritious diet is Visha produces symptoms like Sphota (eruptions), Ruja (pain), Srava (exudation), Twakpaka (ulcer), important in maintaining healthy and beautiful skin.

Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | Sept - Oct 2020 | Vol. 5 | Issue 5 299

Prima Stanly et al. Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An Ayurvedic Perspective

ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020

Food with vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, polyphenols 3. Chaudhri, Jain. - A review. Asian J etc. should be included in the diet.[10] Accept yourself Pharm 2009;3(3). doi: 10.4103/0973-8398.56292. and Love the way you look is the important one in the 4. Meena Kumari Mahto et al. Role of Ayurvedic prevention. In Ayurveda, there are so many natural management in chemical toxicity of cosmetics: a methods mentioned which includes single drug review. Int. J. Res. Ayurveda Pharm 2017;8(2):18-20. therapy and combinational therapy. For example, as 5. Pereira Jonathas Xavier, Pereira Thaís Canuto. cleansers we can use Licorice, Manjishta (Indian Cosmetics and its Health Risks. Global Journal of Madder), Sandal wood, Fenugreek, Lemon peel with Medical Research 2018;18(2). doi: water//lemon juice/yoghurt. For scrubbing action 10.34257/GJMRBVOL18IS2PG63. - Oats, Tulasi (Holy basil), Rose petals with water or 6. Trikamji Jathavji editor. Caraka Saṃhitā of Agniveśa barley, Rice bran, Amalaki (Gooseberry), Neem, (Āyurvedadīpikā, Cakrapāṇidatta, Comme, ) Manjishta (Indian Madder) with lemon/aloe. As face Varanasi: Chaukhambha;2017;p.571.23/14. Mohandas packs we can use fruits and vegetables with Indological Series. honey/lemon/yogurt according to the skin texture. 7. Śāstri Hari Sadāśiva editor. Aṣṭāṅga hṛdaya of For normal skin almond oil will be good as Vāgbhaṭa (Sarvāṅga sundarā, Āyurveda rasāyana, . Arrow root powder mixed with any Comme, Sanskrit) Varanasi: Suganda Dravyas (aromatic drugs) can be used as face Chaukhambha;2016;p.901.35/6. powder. As butter/ghee/Yashti (Licorice) + 8. Trikamji Jathavji editor. Suśruta Saṃhitā of Suśruta honey or bee wax + butter will be good choice. (Nibandha Saṅgraha, Nyāyachandrikā, Comme, Traditional Kajal preparation with Sahadevi Moola Sanskrit) Varanasi: Chaukhambha;2012;p.560.1/15-17. Swarasa (juice of Vernonia cineria) can replace the Kashi Sanskrit Series. toxic eye care cosmetics.[11],[12] 9. ŚāstriHariSadāśiva editor. Aṣṭāṅgahṛdaya of Vāgbhaṭa CONCLUSION (Sarvāṅgasundarā, Āyurvedarasāyana, Comme, Sanskrit) Varanasi: Chaukhambha;2016;p.906.35/55. The widespread use of cosmetic products is 10. Silke K. Schagen et al. Discovering the link between increasingly recognized as a public health, nutrition and skin aging. Dermatoendocrinol 2012 Jul environmental justice, and social justice issue. There 1;4(3):298–307. doi: 10.4161/derm.22876. is a great demand of application of Ayurveda 11. Shilpa et al. in Ayurveda- A Review. Int. J. principles in this field. Awareness of the toxic Ayurvedic med 2014; 2(2):138-142. ingredients and utilizing the natural products will help to reduce the incidence of cosmetic toxicity. 12. Das Banamali et al. Cosmetology in Ayurveda and it’s scope in research. Res. J. Pharmacology and REFERENCES Pharmacodynamics 2015;7(1):40-45. doi: 10.5958/2321-5836.2015.00010.5 1. Shroff Hemal, Diedrichs C.Phillippa, Craddock Nadia. Skin Color, Cultural Capital, and Beauty Products: An How to cite this article: Prima Stanly, K. V. Asha. Investigation of the Use of Skin Fairness Products in Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An Ayurvedic Mumbai, India. Public Health Front 2017;5:365. Perspective. J Ayurveda Integr Med Sci 2020;5:297-300. 2. Alnuqaydan, Sanderson. Toxicity and Genotoxicity of Source of Support: Nil, Conflict of Interest: None Beauty Products on Human Skin CellsIn Vitro. J declared. ClinToxicol 2016;6:4. doi: 10.4172/2161-0495.1000315.

*******************************

Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | Sept - Oct 2020 | Vol. 5 | Issue 5 300