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Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management

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Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020 Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An Ayurvedic Perspective Prima Stanly1, K. V. Asha2 1Final Year Post Graduate Scholar, 2Professor & HOD, Department of Agad Tantra, VPSV Ayurveda College, Kottakkal, Kerala, INDIA. A B S T R A C T People in every civilization used cosmetics to protect and embellish their skin, which naturally leads us to conclude that this is a primordial need. The demand of cosmetic products have increased in recent times, resulting in massive production without following any standard guidelines. Many of them contain dangerous ingredients such as Hydroquinone, Talcum, Parabens, Phthalates, Fragrance, Heavy metals like Lead, Arsenic etc. Studies have shown that about 50% skin fairness face creams available in India contain steroids. Due to long term use, it accumulates in the body and can cause irritation, increased susceptibility to infections, Kidney and Liver damage, Reproductive toxicity and Carcinogenicity. In Ayurveda, the concept of Gara Visha can be well incorporate with Cosmetic toxicity. Acarya Susruta mentions about various Gara Visha Adhishtanas and its different manifestations. The widespread use of cosmetic products is increasingly recognized as a public health and social justice issue due to the deleterious health side effects and the potential reinforcement of racial and social inequalities. So this article review the concepts of Cosmetic toxicity in Ayurveda, their prevention and management. Key words: Cosmetic Toxicity, Gara Visha, Parabens, Talc, Heavy Metals. INTRODUCTION beauty products. Now there is an increase in demand Skin fairness has been understood to be a cultural of organic, herbal and Ayurvedic products. The trend marker of class, wealth, beauty and social status for is primarily a result of growing health consciousness. centuries. Global cosmetic market values about US$ The advertising industry in particular is argued to play 58.6 billion in 2018 and the market is expected to a significant role in reinforcing and capitalizing on [1] grow annually by 6.4% (CAGR 2019-2023). The cause stereotypical notions of caste, age, race, and beauty. of this unbelievable growth may be the rising Due to this, nowadays the use of cosmetic products disposable income, growth of upper middle class are increasing worldwide. But here comes the population and increasing awareness about the question. Do all the cosmetics we are using safe? Address for correspondence: The demand of cosmetic products ranging from skin- Prima Stanly lightening creams, deodorants, face powder, lotion, Final Year Post Graduate Scholar, shampoo, etc. have increased in recent times, Department of Agad Tantra, VPSV Ayurveda College, Kottakkal, Kerala, INDIA. resulting in massive production without following any E-mail: [email protected] standard guidelines. Government reports in the US Submission Date: 12/09/2020 Accepted Date: 05/10/2020 and EU indicate that about 90% of the ingredients Access this article online Quick Response Code used in cosmetics are not safe for people in the long- [2] Website: www.jaims.in term. In Ayurveda, the toxic cosmetic ingredient can be correlated with Gara Visha (artificial poison) and symptoms of cosmetic toxicities can also be well Published by Maharshi Charaka Ayurveda Organization, Vijayapur, explained under various Gara Visha Adhishtanas Karnataka (Regd) under the license CC- (source of Gara Visha). by-NC-SA Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | Sept - Oct 2020 | Vol. 5 | Issue 5 297 Prima Stanly et al. Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An Ayurvedic Perspective ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020 HISTORY OF COSMETICS Breast cancer The word cosmetics derives from a Greek word- Fragrance Almost all Good smell Clogs cosmetics lymphatic ‘Kosmeticos’ which means art of dress and ornament. system FDA defines cosmetics as the substances which are Endocrine intended to be applied to the human body for disruption cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or Organ system altering the appearance without affecting the body’s toxicity structure or functions. Around 10000 BC Egyptian Talc Eye shadow Absorbent Lung tumour were started to use scented oils and creams. Around Blush Ovarian 840 BC Romans and Greeks started to use cosmetics. Baby powder cancer They used lead ore and copper to improve the complexion and ochre clays and red iron as lipstick. Deodorant Later the toxic lead combo was replaced by zinc oxide. Face powder While coming into the Indian cosmetic history, use of Formaldehyde Nail products, Preservative Cancer turmeric, kajal, henna preparations were more Hair dye, Fake prevalent at that time. They used different kinds of oil eyelash adhesives, for massaging and used butter/ ghee to protect the lip Shampoos from cracking. To improve complexion and to fight against acne Chandana (Sandal wood), Agaru (Agar), Phthalates Fragrance Solvent and Headaches, fixative in Asthma, Nimba (Neem), Kumkuma (Saffron) etc. were used.[3] Perfumes fragrances Dermatitis, Deodorants Classification of Cosmetics Denaturant Endocrine Lotions disruption, Cosmetics can be broadly classified into 4 categories; Liver/Kidney/ Lung damage, 1. Skin care cosmetics - cleansers, toners, Cancer moisturizers, creams, lotions, sunscreens etc. Lead Lipstick Contaminants Cancer 2. Hair care cosmetics - shampoo, conditioners, hair Hair dye Neurotoxicity spray, gel etc. Mercury Mascara Contaminants Allergen 3. Colour/ make up cosmetics - primer, concealer, some eye Impairs brain compact powder, foundation, mascara, eye liner, drops development lip stick, lip liner etc. Sodium Lauryl Used in Surfactant Eye and skin 4. Fragrance/ perfumes Sulfate (SLS, foaming irritation SLES) cosmetics such [2],[4],[5] Depression Table 1: Major toxic contents in the Cosmetics as shampoos, Liver damage cleansers, Content Product Purpose Toxic effect soaps. Cancer BHA & BHT Moisturizers Anti-oxidant Endocrine Toluene Nail polish Solvent Reproductive disruption Hair dye Colouring & Cancer agent development al damage DEA-related Moisturizers Thicken the Cancer Liver and ingredients Shampoo aqueous portion Kidney damage Parabens Body lotions Preservative Endocrine Oxybenzone Sunscreen Protects from Contact Diaper wipes disruption Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | Sept - Oct 2020 | Vol. 5 | Issue 5 298 Prima Stanly et al. Cosmetic Toxicity & Its Management - An Ayurvedic Perspective ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE Sept-Oct 2020 UVB rays allergies, Jwara (fever), Mamsanam Daranam (deep seated photo ulcers) etc. Mukhalepa Visha produces symptoms allergies similar to that of Abyanga Visha with additional Endocrine disruption symptoms like Syavamukha (blackish discolouration of Organ system the face) and thorny eruptions like those found in the [8] toxicity Padminikantaka (lotus flower). p- Hair dye Colouring Skin irritation, DISCUSSION phenylenedia agent Liver toxicity mine Ayurvedic management of Cosmetic toxicity Birth defects Cancer Samanya Chikitsa (general management) of Gara Visha is mainly Sodhana (purifactory therapies) - CONCEPT OF GARA VISHA Vamana (emesis) and Virecana (purgation). Along with this Hridayavarana treatment (protection of As per the classics, Gara Visha is mainly an artificial Heart), administration of Swarna (gold), Samana poison which can be prepared from the combination Prayogas (palliative treatment) can be utilized.[9] But of substances which are not poisonous in nature or in case of cosmetic toxicity, Samana therapies weak poisons. It can be drugs, chemicals, (palliative) will be more useful than Sodhana incompatible foods, alcohols, body parts of insects therapies (purifactory). Because usually we are etc. It causes physical, psychological and social issues. identifying cosmetic toxicity of immediate nature like According to Cakrapani, “as it takes much time for urticarial reaction, allergic dermatitis etc. So Samana digestion Gara Visha is always Cirakarirogajanaka” (palliative therapies) will be more apt for this (which does not endanger life soon).[6] But Vagbhata condition. Here we can use both internal and external says that the symptoms may manifest immediately/ therapies with drugs having properties like Pācana after some time/ after long time.[7] In case of cosmetic (promoting digestion), Deepana (kindling digestive toxicity also, the signs and symptoms usually manifest fire), especially with vishshara (anti-toxic) properties. in different time periods. Some cosmetic ingredients According to the condition, we can use internal produce immediate effects like non-immunological medicines like Lodrasevyadi Kashaya, Guluchyadi allergic contact dermatitis, immunological dermatitis, Kashaya, Drakshadi Kashaya, Murvadi Churna, contact urticarial syndrome etc. eg: Benzoic acid, Dushivishari Gulika, Dasanga Gulika and external Cinnamic acid, Cinnamal, Methyl nicotinate, SLS, medicines like Pathyakshadathryadi Kshalanam Formaldehyde etc. On long term usage some (pouring of medicated water), Neelidaladi Keram, produces toxic effects like endocrine disruption, Paranthyadi Keram, Sigrupunarnavadi Lepam, reproductive toxicity and carcinogenicity. eg: Kottamtakaradi Churnam, Triphala Churnam etc. Gara Parabens, Fragrance, Triclosan, Phthalates, Talc etc. Adhishtana treatment can also be incorporate in Gara Visha Adhishtanas (source/ mode of poisoning) suitable conditions. Susruta mentions about various Gara Visha Prevention Adhishtanas. Some of them have direct link with 1. Healthy life style cosmetic toxicity like Abyanga Visha, Anjana
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