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Journal of and Clothing Science ISSN (Online): 2581-561X

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A SOCIO-ECONOMIC STUDY OF - CRAFTSWOMEN OF SANTINIKETAN

Dibyendu Bikash Datta1

1Associate Professor, Department of Fashion Management Studies, National Institute of Fashion Technology (Ministry of , Govt. of ), Plot-3B, Block-LA, Sector III, Salt Lake City, - 700 098

A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T

Article history: Handicraft industries is an important role in the livelihood and Presented in National Workshop economy of rural people of the developing countries like India. and Seminar on Exploration of The kantha craft of Santiniketan is not an exception to this KANTHA for the Niche Market concept. Most of the Indian traditional industries are suffering from stagnation or decline and they survive even with the Keywords: onslaught in the era of globalization. Production organization Women, competition, hindrances, plays a vital role not only in economic activity but also in the challenges, artisans, embroidery, distribution of benefits of economic activity among the kantha. participants. The productivity of workers and earnings share vary substantially across different production organization, namely independent, intermediaries (under mahajan) and cooperative, and potentiality of growth varies across the trade. The present note seeks to analyse the above-noted issues with reference to kantha crafts of Santiniketan of West . The study reveals that production organization tied to mahajans is proliferating in the era of liberalization, privatization, and globalization of the economy while independent and cooperative organizations rather stagnate or even suffer decline. Rural artisans mostly belonging to the weaker section of the society are hardly capable of coming out of the clutches of mahajans who exploit them using their merchant capital. Productivity, earnings, and potential of growth of the rural artisans thus remain at a low level not substantially contributing to the rural development of the districts. This paper analyses the economics of kantha industry in relation to its production organization.

1. Introduction practiced by rural women as it originated as a household craft amongst rural families, with Kantha embroidery is an indigenous household techniques passed down from mother to daughter craft that continues to be a dominant textile art and and are popular dowry traditions. Kantha craft form due to its uniqueness for traditional and embroidery originated as a way of recycling old or folk designs, ability to tell a story and as a form of unused cotton sarees and , in order to create personal and artistic expression. A quilted household items such as , , , embroidery based craft form predominantly home linen and more, using a simple running

Special Issue ISSN (Online): 2581-561X Journal of Textile and Clothing Science stitch (Dhamija, 2004). It involves stitching of the dim and gradually this form of activity has been layers of old cloth together with needle and colored losing its identity. On the economic side of the thread. The original kantha is double-faced where kantha stitch, individual creativity is commercially the design appeared identical on either side of the colored up, kantha has now become identified with (Naik, 1996). The craft is widely practiced in a new look and variety (Condra, 2013). As women the dwellings of millions of rural women residing of poorer classes did it, its production develops in districts of Hooghly, Purba Burdwan, Paschim economic wellbeing of womenfolk. This kind of Burdwan, , North , South economic development affects the women, their 24 Parganas and Birbhum of . families, and society. Thus, the economic development of society also helps to improve their The kantha artisans from of West socio-economic status. Bengal has gained immense popularity and are mostly practiced in the nearby villages In the work of kantha stitch, the entrepreneurs plan surrounding Bolpur, also simply known as the idea, motifs and select the color combination of BolpurSantiniketan, the cultural tourism this work. The intermediaries take this work from destination of West Bengal. Bolpur is the main entrepreneurs and distribute among the females of business center of it because of the presence of different villages. For this work, they get a Tagore's Santiniketan and is the most prominent commission from the entrepreneurs. The location for the purchase of kantha embroidery, entrepreneurs provide finished products to the particularly the kantha saree and nakshi kantha market for sale and earn a profit. This profit is quilt. Initially, this art was taught in Santiniketan. distributed among the intermediaries and the From there onwards, this art got recognition and female workers according to their skills. Thus, spread outside. Contemporary forms of kantha there is a chain system at work. craft find expression in sarees, stoles, apparel, home linen and accessories using cotton and silk as 2. Present status of the women artisans a base fabric. Handicrafts have their importance as not only a Rural women of all classes practice this art. An source of employment to craftsman but also entire piece of fabric may be covered with running perhaps much more due to their capacity to reflect kantha stitch and in different shapes – creating the culture of a civilization, hopes, and fear of a beautiful motifs of flowers, animals, birds, generation through artistic expressions. The geometrical shapes as well as themes from nimble fingers of the craftsman turn every article everyday activities. A finished piece of kantha they touched in to a thing of joy. In the field of embroidery has multiple lines of running stitch all kantha embroidery, the women artisans had over it and hence a slightly wrinkled appearance. reached the peak of quality and beauty in Motifs found in kantha display the identities of its producing articles of utility and of decorative wearers in terms of caste, village, and status. In values and have claimed International fame. One early kantha embroidery, motifs were influenced can learn this art just by imitating others and most by primitive art. With time, Hindu kantha of the artisans learned this art by themselves from embroiderers created motifs of gods, peacocks, their mother and grandmother. Many of them have tigers and auspicious colorful motifs. The Muslim undergone formal training provided by NIFT, population of West Bengal chiefly resides in Visva-Bharati University, other government, and , which is the central location non-government organization. Most of the females for Muslim kantha embroidery that features are influenced by their neighborhoods. Some of geometric and floral designs. them travel and collect job work for more females in the village. A number of women acknowledge Kantha embroidery has been considered as that they have been able to overcome poverty and inextricable part of the life of West Bengal, India, girls can pursue education. Many of the women even when it was undivided and known only as artisans are maintaining their family from the Bengal and still maintains a strong cultural and earning of kantha craft as a source of income and social significance in Bengali society. It has become occupation. Young girls are very interested in a means of livelihood and yet remains a household learning and pursuing kantha stitching as a craft. The kantha of decorative types was a later livelihood. While the older women lack literacy, development (Das, 1992). However, changing taste and modernization has made this traditional art

48 Volume: 01 Issue: 03 |July-September 2018, www.jtcsonline.com Journal of Textile and Clothing Science ISSN (Online): 2581-561X many young girls and women are continuing their Handicrafts and women both the terms are having study and pursuing kantha as a livelihood. their individual identity and if women are producing the handicrafts then their identity 3. Literature review becomes more meaningful. In the ancient era of civilization, women were involved in specific Kantha evolved out of necessity to drape or protect works out of which handicrafts making is one against cold. Kantha on means rags. It can among them. That time it was not being considered rightly be called the recycling art. The precious as an occupation of the women. Indian women silks and when became worn-out. Women were doing handicrafts only to fulfill their personal instead of throwing them away piled them in needs. In addition, some are continuing this layers and stitched. Another legend relates kantha handicraft making, as they love to do stitching and origin to Lord Buddha and his disciples. It is said embroidery. However, gradually it becomes a very that they used to cover themselves with the thrown eye-catching work for women. They could away rags patched and stitched together. The term visualize that their products are saleable in the nakshi kantha, popularly used in West Bengal, is market and they can earn some money in return. found even in medieval literature. The name That moment was a turning point in their life. nakshi kantha became particularly popular among literate people after the publication of dramatized On another side, the government was focused to Bengali verse narrative written by poet raise the status of women in rural areas. Women Jasīmauddīna entitled "Nakshi Kanthar Math (The empowerment has become a burning issue for Field of the Embroidered Quilt)" (Jasīmauddīna, national development. The government has 1929). The verse is considered a masterpiece in introduced many fields to improve the standard of and has been translated into women. Such fields raise the educational level many different languages. Kantha was said to be a among rural women, provide them with minimum woman’s self-expression. The real kantha narrates health care facilities, make them self-reliant, and a story, the emotions and the life of the artist. increase their participation in nation building. The contribution of women to national economic The revival of the cottage industries and crafts of development is very necessary and has a great the area was a major objective of Sriniketan impact on women's development. Hence, the through the Silpa Bhavana. Income from government has to give special attention to the agriculture especially in a one-crop area (there was women development and for their economic practically no irrigation other than the monsoon), establishment in the society. To achieve the above like Birbhum, was understandably poor, and goal the minimum facilities has to be provided to experts had that other means of income or the women in mass. Women need courage, livelihood were necessary. In addition, the confidence, support, and assistance from their machine was overtaking handcrafted items and family members to come out from the four walls of artisans were forced to abandon their crafts and the house to prove her identity and capability. In migrate to urban centres as labor. The challenge the modern era, women have provided many was to reinvigorate the crafts and small industries amenities to prove their capability in various and to design objects that would compete with to fields. Women empowerment is the all-round machine-made items in terms of design and development of the women including education, novelty— this was the first expressions of 'be health, occupation, income, decision-making utility'. Along with the old crafts, some new ones power and participation in all works of family. were introduced. The crafts that were brought Women empowerment will make them more under the ambit of Sriniketan at one time or the strong and prepared for taking up new challenges other were , tannery, leather-craft, in the making of an ideal family, society and the carpentry, lacquer work, pottery, tile-making, nation. A woman is an architect of society and cane-work, bookbinding, tailoring, and women empowerment itself is human embroidery called kantha usually executed with empowerment. As stated by Shiva (2016) women running stitch). Apprentices were trained here empowerment is a development process helping who later were able to earn their livelihood from women to change the consciousness of others their crafts with the training they had received in through creating awareness. Despite all Sriniketan (Bhattacharya, 2013). developmental rights, laws and facilities still women are suffering from various problems, and

Volume: 01 Issue: 03 | July-September 2018, www.jtcsonline.com 49 ISSN (Online): 2581-561X Journal of Textile and Clothing Science atrocities in the present situation (Ahmed, 2016). Liebl and Roy (2004) have found that the word The present study reflected the status of women in handicraft is more precisely expressed as a the handicrafts sector but it also assessed their handmade craft. Apparently, it creates confusion position in family, community and at the societal among the policy-makers and economists, as it is level. difficult to recognize handicraft as an autonomous, economic sector in its own right. This resulted in Anju and Raju (2014) in their study have discussed handicraft sector being labeled diversely as small- the need for women entrepreneurship through scale industries or household trade and at times, self-help groups and their functions, the factors even as women-focused activity offering influencing them and the problems faced by them. incentives to rural women to turn into They argued for the establishment of separate economically independent by capitalizing on their industrial estates, an industrial development bank craft skills. exclusively for women entrepreneurs and for imparting management training to them. 4. Objectives of the study Revathi and Krishnan (2012) in their study The study presents an overview of the socio- explains about the emergence of a woman in small economic profile of trained artisans engaged in business and the significant contribution to the kantha crafts. The paper also attempts to look into Indian economy. Increased awareness and spread the hindrances and challenges faced by these of education are helping women of spreading their women artisans of the kantha cluster. wings into areas, which are hitherto the monopoly of men. The majority of the educated woman 5. Methodology and sampling artisans are having qualities of accepting the challenges, very ambitious, enthusiastic, hard A sample of 100 women respondents involved in working and skillful. kantha crafts was selected for the study based on their cooperation and willingness to respond. The Ghouse (2012) in her article brought to light certain sampling technique used in this study is purposive problems faced by the women artisans like sampling for selection of cluster and blocks. All the marketing problems, financial problems, raw participants had undergone skill development material problem, labor problems, and power training on kantha embroidery. The interview supply. The researcher also provides helpful schedule was formulated based on the pre-existing suggestions to overcome such difficulties. conceptual literature relating to the subject of craft entrepreneurship. The questionnaire dealt with Raveendran (2010) in a study brings to light some general background, socio-economic status, important aspects of women's location in the labor hindrances and challenges faced by the female market and their contribution to the national artisans practicing the kantha crafts. economy. It also illustrates, through data, that the majority of women are concentrated in sectors with 5.1 Study area low productivity. The study is confined to women artisans from Jamali (2009) discussed the constraints and different blocks of Bolpur-Santiniketan, located at opportunities that affect the women 23.68° N, 87.68° E and 145 km north of Kolkata. It entrepreneurial activities in the developing is best known for its proximity to Visva Bharati, the nations. The research consolidates significant university set up by the Nobel laureate poet micro and macro level approaches and identifies . Bolpur is one of the most opportunities and constraints as part of a important cultural regions of West Bengal and is comprehensive mutually dependent system. the main business center for the handicraft Dasgupta (2003) states that globalization has products of the district. thrown many challenges for the women. To succeed, the women had to develop their 5.2 Data collection method commercial and technical knowledge and To examine the objectives of this study, relevant information. Formation of a small group will help data were collected from both primary and women to discuss their problems, share secondary data. Observations, structured information and promote entrepreneurial culture questionnaire and interview schedule are used as in their society. primary sources of data. The secondary data

50 Volume: 01 Issue: 03 |July-September 2018, www.jtcsonline.com Journal of Textile and Clothing Science ISSN (Online): 2581-561X

10 Years and consists of information collected from articles, 42 35.0 % journals, books and reports from government above Generation records. 0-1 associated 28 23.3 % Generation with craft 5.3 Summary of findings 1-2 72 60.0 % Generations 3 Generations 20 16.7 % Table 1 Socio-economic profile of women artisans and above (n=120) Earning members Self only - - No. of Particulars Percentage in family respondents 2-3 members 72 60.0 % Age (years) 18-21 8 6.7 % 3-5 members 48 40.0 %

21-30 22 18.3 % Family income 2000-5000 32 26.7 % 31-40 58 48.3 % (Rs.)

41-50 26 21.7 % 5000-10000 57 47.5 %

51-60 6 5.0 % Above 10000 31 25.8 % Education Illiterate - - Source: Primary data qualification Less than Class 20 16.7 % 10th pass Class 10th pass 62 51.7 % In this study, age has been categorized into five Class 12th pass 25 20.8 % groups. Majority of the respondents consisting of

Graduation 13 10.8 % 48.3 % women belonged to the age group of 31-40 Marital status Married 82 68.30 % years, 18.3 % of the women were of 21-30 years, Unmarried 26 21.70 % Widow 8 6.70 % 21.7 % were found to be in the 41-50 years range, Divorce 4 3.30 % and 5% in the category of 51 years and above and Assets owned 7 % belongs in 18-21 years section. by Land 10 8.3 % the Craftsman No women were found illiterate. 16.7 % of the Cattle 5 4.2 % women had studied less than class 10th standard.

Gold ornament 40 33.3 % 51.7% women had studied up to class 10th and 10.8 Ownership of 56 46.7 % % of women had passed Class 12th. 10.8 % of house Ownership of women were found to be graduated. Out of total multiple 4 3.3 % respondents, 68.3 % of respondents are married, houses 21.7 % are single, 6.7 % is the widow and 3.3 % are Combination 5 4.2 % divorced. of the above No. of family Nuclear 38 31.7 % In the selected area, 68.3 % of the respondents were members family belonging to extended family and 31.7 % were Extended 82 68.3 % family having a nuclear family. 47.5 % of women artisans Role in this were getting their monthly family income as Rs. Designer 12 10.0 % cluster 5,000-10000 and 25.8 % were getting above Rs.

Embroider 88 73.3 % 10,000 and the rest were earning between Rs. 2000

Supervisor 6 5.0 % to 5000 per month. Combination of designer and 5 4.2 % embroider Combination Table 2: Hindrances faced by women artisans of designer and 3 2.5 % (n=120) middleman No. of Combination Hindrances Percentage respondents of designer and 6 5.0 % Dual role of women 54 45% supervisor Insufficient own capital 62 52% Years of Less than 5 Competition 36 30% association 20 16.7 % years Lack of self-confidence 29 24% with the craft Lack of family 5-7 Years 33 27.5 % 42 35% encouragement 8-10 Years 25 20.8 % Source: Primary data

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It is clear from Table 2 that, chief hindrances faced by women artisans was insufficient own capital (52 Table 4 highlights that among the various %), the dual role of women (45 %), lack of family challenges faced by women entrepreneurs encouragement (35 %), competition (30 %), lack of marketing activities and access to information is self-confidence (24 %). ranked first (436) followed by the work-family Women artisans work hard to keep their families interface (432), need of awareness about afloat. They face different practical challenges governmental programs (391), legal barriers and while keeping a balance between their business as procedures (203) and women's safety and gender- well as home-centered responsibilities. Usually, based problems (198). It is depicted that proper women balance both businesses as well as the training and special awareness about government family also. programs are necessary for women artisans.

Table 3 Level of Support from the families of 6. Suggestions and conclusion the Respondents (n=120)

No. of The study sought to give an insight into the socio- Level of Support Percentage respondents economic status and the hindrances faced by Strongly supporting 36 30.0% women artisans practicing the kantha craft in Supporting 53 44.2% Bolpur and its surrounding areas. The intent was Neither supporting nor 24 20.0% to understand the potential of kantha embroidery opposing Opposing 7 5.8% as a profession to enhance the income and develop The Table 3 depicts that 30 % of the women artisans a sustainable livelihood. This art has given an are strongly supported by their family members economic freedom to the female folk and they have mostly by bringing raw materials from the gladly accepted this work as a parallel economy to entrepreneurs or intermediaries and the delivery earn money, without hampering their family of the finished products. 44.2 % of the artisans are responsibilities. Women are also aware of their also supported by their family members. 20 % of self-respect and their position in the society and the women artisans are neither supported nor community. Apart from their traditional role of a opposed. However, 5.8 % of them expressed their homemaker, many of them have taken this art as a difficulty to remain engaged in this craft. The profession and the kantha craft acts as a tool for family members oppose their association with the women empowerment. entrepreneurs or intermediaries for collecting raw material and delivery of finished goods. References

Table No 4 Challenges faced by women artisans [1] Ahmed, S. (2016). Socio-Economic (n=120) Empowerment of Rural Women: An Overview. International Journal of Social

Impact, Volume 1, Issue 3, 2016, 33. Challenges 1 2 3 4 5 [2] Anju, G. S., & Raju, J. K. (2014). Challenges of

Ranks Weight SHG’s Rural Women Entrepreneurship with Special Reference to Davangere District.

Work-family Marketing, 15, 25.

II

12 18 21 24 45

432 interface [3] Bhattacharya, K. (2013). Rabindranath Tagore: Need for Adventure of ideas and innovative practices in

awareness education. Springer Science & Business Media.

about 15 21 26 34 24 III

391 governmental [4] Condra, J. (2013). Encyclopedia of National programs Dress: Traditional Clothing around the World Marketing [2 Volumes]. Abc-Clio. 319-320

activities and I [5] Das, Sukla. Fabric art: heritage of India.

7

10 41 24 38

436 access to Abhinav Publications, 1992. 110-111 information [6] Dasgupta, M. K. (2003). Globalisation and

Legal barriers

4 2 3

61 43 10 20 and procedures IV Indian women: problems, possibilities, and

Women’s safety information needs: an overview, World

2 2

V and gender 63 42 11 198 Library, and Information Congress: 69th IFLA problem General Conference and Council, 1-9. Source: Primary data

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[7] Dhamija, J. (Ed.). (2004). Asian embroidery. Abhinav Publications. [8] Ghouse, S. M. (2012). Indian handicraft industry: problems and strategies. International Journal of Management Research and Reviews, 2(7), 1183. [9] Jamali, D. (2009). Constraints and opportunities facing women entrepreneurs in developing countries: A relational perspective. Gender in Management: An International Journal, 24(4), 232-251. [10] Jasīmauddīna. (1939). the Field of the Embroidered Quilt: A Tale of Two Indian Villages. Indian branch, Oxford University Press. [11] Liebl, M., & Roy, T. (2004). Handmade in India: traditional craft skills in a changing world. Poor people’s knowledge: Promoting intellectual property in developing countries, 53-74. [12]. Naik, S. D. (1996). Traditional of India. APH Publishing. [12] Raveendran, G. (2010). Contribution of women to the national economy, ILO Asia Pacific Working paper. Sub-regional Office for South Asia, New Delhi. [13] Revathi, D.S. & Krishnan J. (2012).Problems and opportunities of women entrepreneurs faced in the globalized economy. International Journal of Management, 3(1) 77-81. [14] Shiva, V. (2016). Staying alive: Women, ecology, and development. North Atlantic Books.

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