KAZAKHSTAN & UZBEKISTAN BIRDING THE SILK ROAD OF CENTRAL ASIA

APRIL 24–MAY 16, 2019

The scarcely distributed Saxaul Sparrow was a major highlight! Image by Cliff Hensel

LEADER: MACHIEL VALKENBURG LIST COMPILED BY: MACHIEL VALKENBURG

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM KAZAKHSTAN & UZBEKISTAN April 24–May 16, 2019 By Machiel Valkenburg

On a beautiful April afternoon in the Uzbekistan capital, a group of birders met up for a trip along the ancient Silk Road. Everybody has heard about the Silk Road, but the details of the region remain largely a mystery to most in America. Our trip to Central Asia took us along the highlights of the Uzbek city states of Samarqand and Bukhara while we visited the best birding spots in Kazakhstan. Spring was late in Central Asia this year, a good three weeks late!

Yellow-breasted Azure Tit was easily found in Uzbekistan. Image by Cliff Hensel

We started the tour in Samarqand where we indulged ourselves in the steep history of this gorgeous ancient city; the famous conqueror Timur made it the capital of his empire, and the richness of the town can be seen everywhere. We visited the most desired places for insight into their beauty and history. The Registan Square was especially admired by all as the best place of all. The friendliness of the local people was astonishing, and we took loads of selfies with all the local people visiting the sites. We were true rock stars! The food in Uzbekistan is fantastic, and we visited a plovchana, a restaurant serving only one dish, Plov! This is rice with lamb and raisins. Naturally, we also did some birding in this area; we visited a mountain pass an hour’s drive from the city where our main target was the Finsch’s Wheatear, which we found after a short walk in a truly stunning landscape. Here, as well, we found White-capped Bunting, Eastern Rock Nuthatch, and a good selection of vultures that included both Eurasian Griffon and Himalayan Griffon.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 We moved to the west to visit another gem of the Silk Road history, the city of Bukhara. We started with a splendid day of birding in the nearby Kyzylkum Desert. We had to leave very early to reach the best spots by 7 am, as this is the best time of day to find the illustrious Pander’s Ground-Jay. After several hours of searching we got a glimpse of this skulky bird—maybe briefly, but we saw it! We enjoyed views of Blue-cheeked Bee-eater and many Lesser Whitethroats. In the afternoon we returned to our hotel located in the center of the city. The center of Bukhara is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is probably the most beautiful spot in the history of the Silk Road. It has to be seen to be believed!

The Registan Square is a delight to visit. Image by Machiel Valkenburg

From the green city of Tashkent we flew to Kazakhstan, where the main birding of the tour took place. The history of both countries is very different. Uzbekistan has a rich history as a trading center, while Kazakhstanis were nomads and roamed the steppes with their cattle and horses. We arrived in Almaty, and the main attractions for us were the giant snow-capped peaks of the Tien Shan Mountains that rise above all and are always in the backdrop of the city. In the Almaty region we would visit three different regions. We headed east towards the beautiful Charyn Canyon; in the north we visited the clay desert of Tau-Kum while in the south the excellent birding spot of Big Almaty Lake was visited.

This White-capped Bunting peeked around the corner at our group. Image by Machiel Valkenburg

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 The Charyn region is an Eolic stone semi-desert that holds many good species, and we had a lot of fun birding this wonderful area. One of the main targets here was the Pallas’s Sandgrouse, which we saw in a close fly-by over the desert in perfect morning light. From a small wormwood bush, the sounds of an Asian Desert Warbler were heard, and quickly after we had walkaway views of this stunning little Sylvia warbler. Common birds here were Desert Wheatear, Isabelline Wheatear, and Horned Lark, and the powerful Long-legged Buzzard was seen numerous times. A colony of Lesser Kestrels was a lot of fun, and Pied Wheatears and Rock Sparrows were numerous. Posting at an artesian well delivered us views of Mongolian Finch and Linnet. Scope views of Gray-necked Bunting for all were a good ending to our days at the Chinese border.

Always fantastic scenery in Kazakhstan! Image by Machiel Valkenburg

Our night excursion in Tau-kum rendered this amazing Small Five-toed Jerboa! Image by Cliff Hensel

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 Tau-Kum is known for the bird migration; millions of birds migrate over the clay desert towards their breeding grounds in Siberia. In this part of Kazakhstan, no accommodation is available, and therefore we lodge in a lovely private yurt camp. These nomad homes are spacious, and the professional cook prepared delicious meals. On the evening we arrived we immediately hit a big one! I was scanning the desert and found a Caspian Plover two miles from the camp. We all ran to the bus and drove towards the plover. While the sun was going down, we enjoyed close scope views of one of the most attractive waders of our planet in breeding plumage. Here we found a few Greater Sand-Plovers as well, plus many Black-bellied Sandgrouse. Other highlights included Saxaul Sparrow, White-winged Woodpecker, Yellow-eyed Dove, Red-headed Bunting, and a smart Little Bustard.

One of the biggest prizes of this venture was the stunning Caspian Plover! Image by Cliff Hensel

Woodpeckers are always good; this White-winged was amazing! Image by Cliff Hensel

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 The final part in Almaty before flying further north was a two-night visit to the mountains south of Almaty. In about one hour we drove from 800m above sea level to 3,000m above sea level; quite the rise—the highest elevation we birded was 3,600m! This huge difference means a huge change as well in the avifauna; we left the desert species behind us and entered the world of high mountain birds. We birded the vicinity of our gorgeously located hotel and loved all the special birds that passed by. We started with an iconic species, the Ibisbill! We were lucky having close views, as the bird was resting on a sandbank instead of foraging between the pebble banks. In the juniper scrub we found the beautiful White-tailed Rubythroat, active Black-throated Accentors, a flying strawberry named Red-mantled Rosefinch, the skulky Sulphur-bellied Warbler, and cute Fire-fronted Serins were always around.

The Rubythroats in the world are stunning, and this White-tailed performed superbly for us. Image by Cliff Hensel

In the higher grounds we were lucky to find White-winged Redstart and the two other accentors (Brown and Altai) quite quickly. The surprise on the Cosmos Station, an old research station used by the Russians during the space race, came from a pair of Wallcreepers. We had a lot of snowfall just before our arrival, and the birds had descended to forage in lower grounds. Another highlight was the splendid Himalayan Snowcock, which we admired on two different days, a true gem of the Kazakh mountains.

For our final part of the tour we flew 800 miles north to the capital, Nur-Sultan. The main birding spot here is the Korgalzhyn NP, but after our flight we spent the afternoon birding a small forested area near the city where we quickly found our target for that day, the superb Pine Bunting. Korgalzhyn is a dream for every shorebird lover, with a large chunk of the population of shorebirds passing through on their migration north towards the Russian tundra. We came across large groups of breeding plumage Ruffs, Spotted Redshank, and Red-necked Phalaropes. The road between Nur-Sultan and Korgalzhyn is already excellent with loads of Pallid Harriers, Short-eared Owls, and Red-footed Falcons. One of the main stars in the park is the Black Lark, an elegant lark that is endemic to the region. An absolute personal favorite! Other interesting sightings included Black-winged Pratincoles, more ‘beema’ Yellow Wagtails, Slender- billed Gulls, and Terek Sandpipers!

On our last evening in this completely newly built city, we enjoyed a wonderful traditional local dinner in the best restaurant of the city. We drove almost 3,000 miles across the vast plains of Central Asia, traveled the foothills of the majestic Himalaya Mountains, met countless interesting and friendly people, and sampled the best cuisine the region had to offer. All in all, this amazing destination never stops to amaze,

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 and I will be looking forward to returning again in 2021. My thanks go to all the enthusiastic participants on this tour who were all a pleasure to travel with. I hope to see you all again soon!

Our delighted group posing in front of the Kazakh flag in Nur-Sultan! Image by translator ☺

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 Checklist

BIRDS: This Checklist order, and common and scientific names are those given by James F. Clements in The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World, 6th Edition, Cornell University Press, with all current updates. Possible or debated species splits and alternative Common and Scientific names (particularly those of the Oriental Bird Club) are given in ( ) or included in heavily bordered boxes. (I) = introduced species. (E) = Endemic.

COMMON NAME SCIENTIFIC NAME Ducks, Geese & Waterfowl Anatidae Graylag Goose Anser anser Mute Swan Cygnus olor Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna Garganey Spatula querquedula Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata Gadwall Mareca strepera Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Northern Pintail Anas acuta Green -winged (Eurasian) Teal Anas crecca crecca Red -crested Pochard Netta rufina Common Pochard Aythya ferina Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca White -headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala

Pheasants, Grouse & Allies Phasianidae Common Quail Coturnix coturnix Heard only Chukar Alectoris chukar Himalayan Snowcock Tetraogallus himalayensis Ring -necked Pheasant Phasianus colchicus Heard only

Flamingos Phoenicopteridae Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus

Grebes Podicipedidae Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Eared (Black -necked) Grebe Podiceps nigricollis

Pigeons & Doves Columbidae Rock Pigeon (I) Columba livia Pale -backed Pigeon Columba eversmanni Common Wood -Pigeon Columba palumbus Oriental Turtle -Dove Streptopelia orientalis Eurasian Collared -Dove Streptopelia decaocto Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 Sandgrouse Pteroclidae Pallas's Sandgrouse Syrrhaptes paradoxus Black -bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis

Bustards Otididae Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax

Cuckoos Cuculidae Common (Eurasian) Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus optatus

Swifts Apodidae Alpine Swift Apus melba Common Swift Apus apus

Rails, Gallinules & Coots Rallidae Eurasian (Common) Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Eurasian Coot Fulica atra

Cranes Gruidae Demoiselle Crane Anthropoides virgo Common Crane Grus grus

Stilts & Avocets Recurvirostridae Black -winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta

Ibisbill Ibidorhynchidae Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii

Oystercatchers Haematopodidae Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus

Plovers & Lapwings Charadriidae Black -bellied (Gray) Plover Pluvialis squatarola Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus White -tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus Leader only Greater Sand -Plover Charadrius leschenaultii Caspian Plover Charadrius asiaticus Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

Sandpipers & Allies Scolopacidae Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata Black -tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Ruff Calidris pugnax Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 Dunlin Calidris alpina Little Stint Calidris minuta Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus Red -necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Common Redshank Tringa totanus

Pratincoles & Coursers Glareolidae Black -winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni

Gulls, Terns & Skimmers Laridae Slender -billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei Black -headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus Pallas's (Great Black -headed) Gull Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus Mew (Common) Gull Larus canus Lesser Black -backed Gull Larus fuscus (Steppe Gull) (Larus fuscus barabensis) Gull -billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Black Tern Chlidonias niger White -winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Common Tern Sterna hirundo

Storks Ciconiidae White Stork Ciconia ciconia

Cormorants & Shags Phalacrocoracidae Pygmy Cormorant Microcarbo pygmeus Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Pelicans Pelecanidae Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus

Herons, Egrets & Bitterns Ardeidae Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus Gray Heron Ardea cinerea Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Great Egret Ardea alba Little Egret Egretta garzetta Black -crowned Night -Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019

Ibises & Spoonbills Threskiornithidae Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

Hawks, Eagles & Kites Accipitridae Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier) Gypaetus barbatus Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Cinereous (Black) Vulture Aegypius monachus Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis Eurasian Griffon Gyps fulvus Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos Eurasian Marsh -Harrier Circus aeruginosus Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Shikra Accipiter badius Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Black Kite Milvus migrans White -tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Long -legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus

Owls Strigidae Eurasian Scops -Owl Otus scops Little Owl Athene noctua Tawny Owl Strix aluco Short -eared Owl Asio flammeus

Hoopoes Upupidae Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops

Bee-eaters Meropidae Blue -cheeked Bee -eater Merops persicus European Bee -eater Merops apiaster

Woodpeckers Picidae White -winged Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucopterus

Falcons & Caracaras Falconidae Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Red -footed Falcon Falco vespertinus Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo Saker Falcon Falco cherrug

Shrikes Laniidae Red -tailed Shrike Lanius phoenicuroides

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 Great Gray Shrike Lanius excubitor Great Gray Shrike (Steppe) Lanius excubitor pallidirostris

Crows, Jays & Magpies Corvidae Eurasian Magpie Pica pica Turkestan Ground -Jay Podoces panderi (Pander's Ground -Jay) Red -billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Yellow -billed (Alpine) Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus Eurasian Jackdaw Corvus monedula Rook Corvus frugilegus Carrion Crow Corvus corone Hooded Crow Corvus cornix Brown -necked Raven Corvus ruficollis Common Raven Corvus corax

Larks Alaudidae Horned (Shore) Lark Eremophila alpestris Greater Short -toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra Black Lark Melanocorypha yeltoniensis Lesser Short -toed Lark Alaudala rufescens Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis Crested Lark Galerida cristata

Swallows Hirundinidae Bank Swallow (Sand Martin) Riparia riparia Pale Sand Martin Riparia diluta Eurasian Crag -Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Red -rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica Common House -Martin Delichon urbicum

Tits, Chickadees & Titmice Paridae Coal Tit Periparus ater Black -breasted (Rufous -naped) Tit Periparus rufonuchalis Heard only Azure Tit Cyanistes cyanus (Yellow -breasted Tit) (Cyanistes cyanus flavipectus) Great Tit Parus major (Turkestan Tit) (Parus major bokharensis)

Penduline-Tits Remizidae White -crowned Penduline -Tit Remiz coronatus

Nuthatches Sittidae Eastern Rock Nuthatch Sitta tephronota

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 Wrens Troglodytidae Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes

Dippers Cinclidae Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii

Bush Warblers & Allies Scotoceridae Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti Heard only

Leaf Warblers Phylloscopidae Hume's Warbler Phylloscopus humei Sulphur -bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides

Reed Warblers & Allies Acrocephalidae Booted Warbler Iduna caligata Sykes's Warbler Iduna rama Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Iduna pallida Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Eurasian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus

Sylviids Sylviidae Asian Desert Warbler Sylvia nana Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris Greater Whitethroat Sylvia communis

Old World Flycatchers Muscicapidae Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata White -throated Robin Irania gutturalis Leader only Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos Bluethroat Luscinia svecica Blue Whistling -Thrush Myophonus caeruleus Himalayan Rubythroat Calliope pectoralis Rufous -backed Redstart Phoenicurus erythronotus (Eversmann's Redstart) Blue -capped Redstart Phoenicurus coeruleocephala Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus White -winged Redstart Phoenicurus erythrogastrus (Güldenstädts Redstart) Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Rufous -tailed Rock -Thrush Monticola saxatilis Blue Rock -Thrush Monticola solitarius Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 Finsch's Wheatear Oenanthe finschii Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina

Thrushes & Allies Turdidae Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula Black -throated Thrush Turdus atrogularis

Starlings Sturnidae European Starling Sturnus vulgaris Rosy Starling Pastor roseus Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

Accentors Prunellidae Himalayan (Altai) Accentor Prunella himalayana Brown Accentor Prunella fulvescens Black -throated Accentor Prunella atrogularis

Wagtails & Pipits Motacillidae Gray Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava Motacilla flava thunbergi Motacilla flava beema Motacilla flava leucocephala Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola Motacilla citreola calcarata Motacilla citreola werae White Wagtail Motacilla alba Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta

Finches, Euphonias & Allies Fringillidae White -winged Grosbeak Mycerobas carnipes Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus Red -mantled Rosefinch Carpodacus rhodochlamys Crimson -winged Finch Rhodopechys sanguineus Leader only Mongolian Finch Bucanetes mongolicus Plain Mountain -Finch Leucosticte nemoricola Black -headed Mountain -Finch Leucosticte brandti Leader only Desert Finch Rhodospiza obsoleta European Greenfinch Chloris chloris Eurasian Linnet Linaria cannabina Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Fire -fronted Serin Serinus pusillus Old World Buntings Emberizidae

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 Red -headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra Rock Bunting Emberiza cia Chestnut -breasted Bunting Emberiza stewarti Pine Bunting Emberiza leucocephalos Gray -necked Bunting Emberiza buchanani Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana

Old World Sparrows Passeridae Saxaul Sparrow Passer ammodendri House Sparrow Passer domesticus Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia

MAMMALS Dogs Canidae Corsac Fox Vulpes corsac Squirrels Sciuridae Long -tailed Marmot Marmota caudata Long -clawed Ground Squirrel Spermophilopus leptodactylus Yellow Ground Squirrel Spermophilus fulvus Small Suslik Spermophilus erythrogenys Muskrat ( I ) Ondatra zibethicus Gerbils Gerbillidae Jird (Red -tailed Gerbil) Meriones libycus Great Gerbil Rhombomys opimus Jerboas Dipodidae Small Five -toed Jerboa Allactaga elater

Rabbits and Hares Leporidae Tolai Hare Lepus tolai European Hare Lepus europeus

Other Wildlife Tortoises Testudinidae Horsfield's Tortoise Testudo horsfieldi Agamas Agamidae Steppe Agama Agama sanguinolenta Agama sp. Agama sp. Toad -headed Lizard Phrynocephalus helioscopus

Wall & Sand Lizards Lacertidae Racerunner Lizard sp. Eremias velox Racerunner Lizard sp. Eremias intermedius Sand Lizard p. Lacerta strigata Lizard sp. Lacerta sp.

Captive/Re-inroduced

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 15 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019 Goitred Gazelle Gazella subgutturosa Dromedary Camel Camelus dromedarius

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Kazakhstan & Uzbekistan, 2019