SOUTHERN : A SPRING MIGRATION SPECTACULAR

MARCH 21–APRIL 3, 2019

Spectacular male (orange spotted form) in one of the world’s greatest migration hotspots, © Andrew Whittaker

LEADERS: ANDREW WHITTAKER & MEIDAD GOREN LIST COMPILED BY: ANDREW WHITTAKER

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM

SOUTHERN ISRAEL: A SPRING MIGRATION SPECTACULAR

March 21–April 3, 2019

By Andrew Whittaker

The sky was full of migrating White in the thousands above Masada and parts of the the Desert © Andrew Whittaker

My return to Israel after working in Eilat banding some 36 years ago certainly was an exciting prospect and a true delight to witness, once again, one of the world’s most amazing natural phenomena, avian migration en masse. This delightful tiny country is rightly world-renowned as being the top migration hotspot, with a staggering estimated 500–750 million birds streaming through the African- Eurasian Flyway each spring, comprising over 200 different ! Israel is truly an unparalleled destination allowing one to enjoy this exceptional spectacle, especially in the spring when all are in such snazzy breeding . Following the famous Great Rift Valley that bisects Israel, they migrate thousands of miles northwards from their wintering grounds in western bound for rich breeding grounds, principally in central and eastern . Israel acts as an amazing bottleneck resulting in an avian abundance everywhere you look: skies filled with countless migratory birds from storks to raptors;

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Southern Israel, 2019 rich fish ponds and salt flats holding throngs of , shorebirds, and more; and captivating deserts home to magical regional goodies such as , and , while every bush and tree are moving with warblers. Also, Israel is a charming country with an astounding assortment of delicacies, incredible history, and a heritage spanning thousands of years, entwined with a diversity of faiths and cultures unlike almost any other place on our planet!

In a rugged region nestled by deserts and devoid of much natural freshwater, Israel is a magical oasis abounding with nature and fully protected by its great conservation policies. Peaks in Mount Hermon to the northeast supply the headwaters of the River, which runs along the country’s eastern border and flows into lush valleys to the west and terminating to the south in the famous Dead Sea, the lowest point in the world at an incredible 1,400 feet or 420 m below sea level! To the south stretches the starkly beautiful Negev Desert with its rocky canyons and amazing badlands stretching to reach the blue waters of the Red Sea with their amazing coral reefs in Eilat. World-famous as a major junction on the migration flyway, Eilat is one of the most important stopover sites for migratory birds in the world, being the only overland bridge between Europe, Asia, and Africa, acting as a bottleneck that serves hundreds of millions of migratory birds annually.

On our first day we got our first of many iconic looking © Andrew Whittaker

We began our incredible Israel experience by gathering in the lobby of the hotel for a formal welcome and introduction at 6pm. Our adventures commenced immediately after that with the first of our Middle Eastern meals at a traditional restaurant operated by a family of Jewish Yemenites living in Israel for decades. We sat together at a large table under a furl of decorative domes lining the ceiling. As conversations ignited, plate after plate of sauces, pickled vegetables, tahini, and cheeses were placed before us. Here we had the first of many experiences with falafel, which were prepared quite differently at each of the various restaurants we visited throughout the tour. Soon, shashlik skewers were placed before us, with the chicken being particularly juicy and flavorful. We finally wrapped-up with homemade baklava for dessert.

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We witnessed the awesome migration of countless millions of Painted Lady Butterflies which already had been going on for almost a week throughout the country! © Andrew Whittaker

The next morning our exciting bird extravaganza began as we loaded into our van, taking along a picnic breakfast and heading south to be in time for the best hours of birding. Our introduction to the avifauna was a wonderful one from both the two species of brightly colored rock- to our first migrating raptors and colorful Sylvia warblers, including the lovely localized Spectacled. Localized species included Long-legged Buzzard and displaying Long-billed Pipit, plus gorgeous Mourning , , Black , Little , and striking Woodchat , while the ever constant insect-like songs of Hill (Pale-Rock) Sparrow filled the air. However, the highlight was a magnificent Persian Wheatear—only the 2 nd country record! A recent split from Red-rumped Wheatear, few birds capture the spirit of the Middle East better than these beautiful . And let’s not forget the awesome migration of countless millions of Painted Lady Butterflies that had been going on for almost a week! In the afternoon, even the vastness of the adjacent Ramon Crater, as apparently lifeless as it seemed, shone golden below the sun and granted us generous views that humbled the spirit. We settled into our comfortable base for the next three nights in the quaint town of Mitzpe Ramon, where we enjoyed an incredible buffet.

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The beautiful but shy male Rock-Thrush © Andrew Whittaker

Our base for the next two days was the impressive northern Negev. First we headed towards the southwestern Negev, near the border with , visiting the vicinity of Nitzana, an ancient Nabataean settlement where rocky outcrops give way to sandier and open deserts. We skirted along the Ottoman Railway Line, built 100 years ago in a military effort to control the Suez Canal to the south—an effort rendered obsolete after the empire’s demise post World War I. To the west we could see fortified Egyptian border posts. We stopped by one of the remaining train cars, now refitted as a blind for wildlife viewing. From here we were rewarded with views of the rare Macqueen’s doing its comical but truly spectacular headless chicken display and wonderful Cream-colored . This was followed by sandgrouse heaven as we were spellbound when flocks of Spotted and Black-bellied swirled in from barren desert surroundings to drink. Later, exploring the desert, we even had a delightful young Levant or Streaked Scrub Warbler land on our van’s bumper! On our return to our hotel, we even had magnificent alpha male Nubian Ibex in all their glory waiting for us in the park square!

An incredibly well camouflaged female Macqueen’s Bustard on a nest (found post tour by Jaqueline and me) close to where we briefly saw the displaying male in a wadi north of Eilat. Constituted the first breeding record there for 20 years! © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Southern Israel, 2019 The next day, dodging rain storms and flash floods, we revisited and birded again one of the most spectacular sites in Israel, a memorial vantage point containing the graves of David Ben Gurion—the leading founder of the State of Israel and its first Prime Minister—and his wife Paula. From there the landscape opened to the impressive Zin Valley, giving view to one of the most evocative desert vistas, leading the eye through an enormous wadi carved into jagged outcrops and winding towards the vast stretch of remote badlands. The palette of ochres and sienna shone crisp with every sculpted ridge and jagged crag, eventually washed as the distant haze blended the horizon into the sky. Vultures were a highlight, with breeding Eurasian Griffon and the striking Egyptian both seen very well, along with lovely Alpine and duller Pallid swifts and our first . After this moving and memorable visit, we encountered our first migrant stunning male Bluethroat, tired Turtle Dove, and a lovely, classy male Caspian Stonechat, which was a great find. Around our hotel grounds both days, bushes and trees were alive with Blackcap, Chiffchaff, and Eastern Bonnelli’s (Balkan) warblers. We enjoyed delightful spreads in a buffet dinner each night.

Impressive alpha male Nubian Ibex near our hotel, a threatened species but doing well with the country’s strong conservation protection; it’s protected by law © Andrew Whittaker

We enjoyed some exciting pre-breakfast birding in the Wadi Nekarof. As dawn temperatures rose, the tiny bushes here began to move with warblers, including our first Eastern Orphean and wondrous Ruppell’s, nightingales, shrikes, and some surprises in the form of a superb male Trumpeter and a smart male Cretzschmar’s . The Desert Broomrape was truly fascinating too.

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The distinct and interesting Desert Broomrape was a truly fascinating and lovely saprophytic specialty too © Andrew Whittaker

After another mouthwatering breakfast, we headed south, birding through the desert to our destination of Eilat. We stopped at the famous Meyshar Plains, which were a green oasis full of colorful flowers after the first winter rains in ten years. Huge numbers of migrating White Storks filled the skies above while roving feeding flocks of Lesser Kestrels, Desert Wheatears, and hundreds of colorful Yellow Wagtails, larks, and pipits were flushed by hunting harriers. We carried on through the stark scenic desert to Eilat and our magnificent hotel and complex. Late afternoon we enjoyed birding the famous K20 salt ponds alive with hundreds of colorful Greater Flamingos, flocks of Slender-billed , and newly arriving Gargany swirling around before landing. We sorted through many shorebirds enjoying great looks at Black-winged Stilt, Spur-winged , Little-ringed , , , Spotted and Common redshanks, and more. We even managed to find a very well camouflaged baby Eurasian Stone .

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Flocks of pink Greater on the famous Eilat K20 salt pans © Andrew Whittaker

Over the next three days we quickly learned why Eilat is rightly known as one of the most important stopover sites for migratory birds in the world, serving hundreds of millions of migratory birds annually. Highlights are too many to mention here. One feature is that you just never know what rarities can turn up, and we managed to track down and see two very smart warblers, both from Asia: a Hume’s and similar Yellow-browed Warbler, along with Wryneck and smart male Eastern Subalpine Warbler. The desert rewarded us with one of the birds of the trip, a magnificent displaying Greater , a species high on my want list and a great highlight for me. Others included great studies of a pair of Sand Partridges, Desert and Band-tailed larks (their dullness offset by their wonderful songs), an immaculate male Pallid , and White-crowned Wheater song and display.

Much sought after, a cool looking camouflaged male Sand Partridge © Andrew Whittaker

The famous IBRCE and its well-placed blinds came up trumps for skulkers such as and crake, as we all enjoyed prolonged close-up studies of these rarely seen reedbed inhabitants, with mega Little and Baillon’s crakes, , Little , and Savis Warbler. We also enjoyed seeing ringing with

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Southern Israel, 2019 several cool warblers seen up-close in the hand, including skulky Savi’s plus a bonus Little Bittern. Red- necked were spinning daily on the nearby saltponds, and the famous North Beach held the much sought after White-eyed and our first stunning Arabian Green Bee-eaters. Repeated visits to K20 increased our shorebird list with Kentish Plover; Temminck’s Stint; Curlew, Green, Wood, and the delicate Marsh ; Black-tailed ; Baltic Gull; Gray ; and lovely -like Collared . At dusk, K19 produced the cryptic and poorly known Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse, hovering Pied , countless beautiful Yellow-wagtail races, Namaqua Dove, striking Squacco , and . Despite winds mostly from the wrong direction for raptor migration, we still enjoyed their migration both up in the nearby mountains as well as over the salt ponds, with hundreds of Steppe Buzzards, and —mostly Steppe, Short-toed Snake, and Booted. A trip highlight was watching a dark morph Booted go into a long stoop and catch a feral pigeon right in front of us!

Interestingly, the secretive Little Crake displays strong (male above & female below). Eilat is certainly the best spot ever to see and study this neat ghost of the reedbeds © Andrew Whittaker

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Sadly, today we had to follow the flow of the flyway migrating north. Our first of a few birding stops was at Neof Smadar, where I was excited to find a rarity, a female Citrine Wagtail, which showed well along with a super singing male Bluethroat and a neat male amongst many Lesser Whitethroats and our first smart . A brief stop in Uvda Valley produced a roosting . A pleasant walk around the Moshav farm of Ein Yahav followed, where we enjoyed great studies of the iconic Hoopoe, Wryneck, and lots of mixed warblers. Sadly, we only heard a Brambling, which we could not find. Another pool along the roadside with no name came up trumps, producing a few good looks at Common and a lovely Spotted Crake. As we approached close to our destination, the Navit pools along the roadside were alive with birds. Best of all we enjoyed great looks at the threatened Ferruginous , a magnificent African Swamphen, Eurasian , and .

A striking male © Andrew Whittaker

Soon we were winding down ever-drier landscapes that opened to give us our first vast views of the southern Dead Sea. We had gradually descended into the lowest point in the world at an astounding 1,407 feet below sea level! We continued to our lovely hotel complex and in late afternoon had some time off to see this amazing site, walking across the lovely beaches. One of my regrets was the abnormally cool weather that did not really allow most of us at the beach to have an opportunity to go swimming in the hypersaline waters, which are nearly 10 times saltier than the ocean. I did so later on holiday, and it was truly awesome. However, I confirm I did not try the famous Dead Sea mud bath!

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The truly unique Dead Sea where nobody, even non-swimmers, could drown. Of course reading my VENT bird list! © Jaqueline Fortuna

This morning, from our lovely base, we had an inspiring visit to the famous historical and iconic ruins of Masada in the Judean Desert. I must admit, even I was blown away by the whole experience, and my lord, what mega views off the top of such a stark landscape. Imagine being here during the first Jewish-Roman War (73 C.E.), when after watching the ramp get closer and closer to your hide-out, your only way out was to commit mass suicide, and then finally the men jumping off the top, instead of surrendering to slavery and much worse! On top we also enjoyed some birding with an incredible migration of White Storks passing over, the odd localized Fan-tailed Raven, and confiding Tristram’s . Returning to our hotel, we enjoyed a fabulous meal at the nearby Taj Mahal, with Bedouin style authentic Mediterranean foods and excellent friendly service. On an afternoon break we enjoyed the Dead Sea before birding at Lot Reservoir and Nauit Pools. A night excursion produced brief looks at range- restricted Nubian Nightjar, but sadly, we missed the .

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The very vocal and inquisitive Tristram’s at Masada © Andrew Whittaker

Our first stop after leaving our hotel was the nearby rich Lot Reservoir, which was jumping with Sylvia Warblers, mostly Lesser Whitethroats and Blackcap. Other goodies included a lovely , both Clamerous and Great Reed warblers, Masked , and (which was causing us nightmares). We planned to arrive first at the famous Ein-Gedi Reserve, an oasis in Wadi David. Confiding Blackstarts and delightful but odd-looking Rock Hyrax (whose closest relatives are elephants) that came out to bask and feed as it warmed up were our highlights on a short but spectacular scenic walk, with a stunning backdrop of waterfalls and huge, sheer rock walls towering above while several raptors started to pass over. Afterwards, we climbed up the road to Metzukey Dargot. The contrasting northern Dead Sea where the River Jordan enters in many stretches was covered with tremendous sinkholes that had swallowed popular beach sites now condemned for the mysterious craters. We stopped to admire the view from our high perch overlooking Wadi Darga, gouged up and away from us into the mountains on one side, and the Dead Sea to the other. Here we were treated to a magnificent perched Short-Toed Snake-Eagle in the scope before it took off and climbed in a thermal closer to us, giving exceptional views as it looked down at us with its golden-yellow eyes. The raptor and migration was hitting its peak as we stopped along the road for lunch; with thousands passing over, it was certainly very hard to pull ourselves away.

A magnificent Short-Toed Snake-Eagle soared below us with its glaring yellow eyes © Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 Southern Israel, 2019 However we continued ever northward, finally entering the vicinity of Jerusalem, where arid rocky scrapes suddenly gave way to ancient groves draping green the surrounding slopes. Old settlements and modern houses perched in clusters in denser and denser concentration until we entered the hustle and bustle of modern Jerusalem, making our way through the labyrinthine streets to the elegant Mt Zion Hotel with its great view over the city and birdy grounds. Some enjoyed relaxing in the Turkish Steam Bath before another exceptional spread for dinner.

A very confiding White-throated Kingfisher near our hotel in Jerusalem in the square © Andrew Whittaker

This was our full-day tour of Old Jerusalem, and one with minimal birding. However, we did start the day by visiting the banding station at the Jerusalem Bird Observatory (JBO), operated by the Society for the Protection for Nature in Israel. There we were met by the ever enthusiastic Amir Balaban, a co-founder and now the director and, of course, a very experienced ringer, who guided us through a wonderful demonstration. The facilities are beautifully equipped, with a banding lab and visitor’s center with plenty of seating. An adjacent bird hide gives view to a forested area, a pond, and feeders with Great and Syrian . A gallery houses works of art, plenty of educational material for sale, and a comprehensive library. While Amir Balaban gave an introduction, volunteers brought birds from the nearby nets, and we were treated to close views of Wryneck (which was the star), , and Eastern Orphean, Blackcap, , and Reed warblers during the ringing operations, some of which were released with the help of tour participants. One of the most remarkable aspects of the JBO is that it is in the heart of Jerusalem, in a patch of land allocated by the government between the Supreme Court and the Parliament buildings in what is a very busy part of the capital, and ringing 10–15 thousand migrants a year!

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The incredible star was a Wryneck in the hand at the famous Jerusalem Bird Observatory; thanks to Amir Balaban and his ringing staff for a great demonstration © Jaqueline Fortuna

From there we immediately started off on our tour, led by a history expert who guided us through the intricate streets of the Old City. We entered through the Jaffa Gate and the Tower of David, soon stopping at the Christ Church Ministry Center and Museum, alongside the oldest Protestant Church in the Middle East. We continued through the Armenian Quarter, down St. James Street into the Jewish Quarter. We stopped to admire the Cardo Columns, dating back to Roman antiquity and part of what was then the main street. We also stopped at the Golden Menorah by the Temple Institute and were given detailed explanations by our guide.

Perhaps most memorable was winding through the narrow streets and arriving at the Temple Mount and seeing panoramic views of the legendary Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, the Al-Aqsa Mosque, and

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Southern Israel, 2019 four nearby minarets. As a backdrop, the cemetery on the Mount of Olives created quite a view—what appeared like slopes perfectly arranged with mosaics of pebbles were indeed tens of thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of grave stones. We were visiting the Old City on the Shabbat, and though it was the day of rest, there were hundreds of people gathered near the Western Wall and through the market streets.

A cultural and religious highlight was visiting Jerusalem’s famous Western Wall © Andrew Whittaker

Later we enjoyed a family-cooked lunch at a quiet street side restaurant, experiencing another version of the popular falafel and tahini dish, plus freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.

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Freshly squeezed pomegranates made for a superb fresh juice © Andrew Whittaker

Our final destination was the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, where countless visitors streamed in and out in droves to visit the sites identified by Christians as the location where the crucifixion of Jesus and his tomb were. Immediately upon entering the church one could sense the importance of the site to pilgrims, as hundreds of people lined up for a chance to vow before the Stone of Anointing. We entered through passageways and naves into the spacious Rotunda, within which a small chapel or Aedicula is said to enclose the Holy Sepulcher. Again, hundreds of devout pilgrims lined up to enter. It was an adventure to exit the church, for by the time we were set to go, hundreds more were pouring in for a ceremony. Exhausted and awed, we returned to our entrance point through the busy market streets, each of us reflecting on what we gained from a visit to a place charged with so many centuries of history and devotion. On our return, some came on a quick optional, sadly last birding trip with me around the hotel grounds and nearby square, and as usual, Israel did not let us down, as it was rocking with migrants,

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Southern Israel, 2019 mostly Lesser Whitetroat and Blackcap, but also a stunning male Ruppell’s Warbler, Common Nightingales, , and even a gorgeous and confiding White-throated Kingfisher.

A stunning male Ruppell’s Warbler, one of my favorites amongst the many fascinating warblers seen on this wonderful trip © Andrew Whittaker

Summing up, our inaugural Southern Israel: A Spring Migration Spectacular tour truly rocked, being a great success. The bounty of birds and the evocative desert landscapes combined to make this tour successful and memorable on multiple levels, along with the history and culture components, which were by no means afterthoughts. The crucial key, however, to all this, was our guide Meidad Goran, who is not only a great birder, knowing intimately the varied avifauna, but also a great ambassador for Israel’s birds and a fantastic naturalist, as well as a charismatic and passionate Israelite, born and raised and committed to his country and a true conservationist. How fortunate we were to visit Israel, where all birds find refuge despite the odds, and where bird-lovers are welcome with open arms!

All in all, a fantastic group enjoyed a truly magical all round Israel experience, mega avian migration, breathtaking various types of desert, great mammals, amazing history, and the “lowest” point of the tour being the Dead Sea at 1,400 feet below sea level! I cannot wait for my return next spring to see and enjoy more of this incredible country and its abundant wildlife! Thank you all for traveling with us. I do hope to see you sometime in the future on another exciting VENT trip to some excellent, exotic, birdy destination. Meanwhile, I hope you enjoy this report and, as always, happy birding!

ITINERARY

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March 21: – Participants of the Southern Israel: A Spring Migration Spectacular tour departed today for Israel from various locations. Some made arrangements to arrive earlier in order to rest from the long flight before the tour started.

March 22: – Overnight flights from the U.S. arrived in Tel Aviv throughout the day. Transfers were made to the Isrotel Royal Beach Hotel, located on the Mediterranean coast. We gathered in the lobby of the hotel for a formal welcome and introduction at 6pm. Our adventures commenced immediately after that with the first of our Middle Eastern meals after strolling through a sleepy block of old Tel Aviv and arriving in Maganda, a traditional restaurant operated by a family of Jewish Yemenites living in Israel for decades. We sat together at a large table under a furl of decorative domes lining the ceiling. As conversations ignited, plate after plate of sauces, pickled vegetables, tahini and cheeses were placed before us. Here we had the first of many experiences with falafel, which were prepared quite differently at each of the various restaurants we visited throughout the tour. Soon, shashlik skewers were placed before us, with the chicken being particularly juicy and flavorful. We finally wrapped-up with homemade baklava for dessert.

March 23: – With our packed bags, we left Tel Aviv in our min bus, heading southward through the still sleeping city breaking out into agricultural fields before the typical dry looking interior and its spectacular semi-desert. After a quick bathroom and drinks stop we headed into the Judean Plains and observed our first few bedouins with their camelsThe lush rocky hills and vallies of Amasa offered us an excellent introduction to the regions varied and exciting avifauna. The highlight being a magnificent Persian Wheatear and only the 2 nd country record! We drove a little further south to Arad for lunch. The landscape became more and more arid as we entered the Negev Desert. Stopping off to bird at Sde Boker and Ben Gurion’s National Park (Israel’s first Prime Minister) located on the spectacular rim of Makhtesh Ramon. the world's largest "erosion cirque" (steephead valley or box canyons) formation is 40 km long, 2–10 km wide and 500 meters deep, and is shaped like an elongated heart that has formed a crater due to eons of erosion. We arrived at our hotel at Mitzpe Ramon as the sun set over the surrounding Negev Desert in Israel’s southernmost region. Followed by a wonderful buffet dinner at the Isrotel Ramon Inn was another culinary banquet of endless savory possibilities.

March 24: – This morning we left early with packed breakfast boxes in hand, towards the southwestern Negev, near the border with Egypt. We visited the vicinity of Nitzana, an ancient Nabataean settlement where rocky outcrops give way to sandier and open deserts. We skirted along the Ottoman Railway Line, built 100 years ago in a military effort to control the Suez Canal to the south—an effort rendered obsolete after the empire’s demise post World War I. To the west we could see fortified Egyptian border posts. We stopped by one of the remaining train cars, now refitted as a blind for wildlife viewing. From there we scanned the traditional haunts of the rare Macqueen’s Bustard. Next up as if by magic from the desert we enjoyed flock after flock of Sandgrouse coming into drink near Mifrasit. We then adventured out onto the mandatory road for some desert species. Returning to Sde Boker and the delightful Ramon Crater for some birding and lunch. Finishing off our action packed day birding at Nafcha farm. As we returned to Isrotel Ramon Inn that evening we had our first encounters with three magnificent alfa male Nubian Ibex adorned with their incredible sets of horns, right outside our hotel before enjoying another sumptuous buffet dinner.

March 25: – Today was all about dodging the predicted rains and flooding that occur in any desert area. I must say with the sky as dark and threatening Meidad did an excellent job with his incredible local knowledge we escaped mostly rain and any road blockages. Returning to the Ramon Crater to observe waterfalls, yes waterfalls in the badlands! The majestic Avdat Canyon where we soon saw the imperiled Griffon Vulture on shelves along the sheer walls. We then visited between showers Wadi Avdat and Midreshet Ben Gurion and and Ramon vineyard. Before returning to our hotel.

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March 26: – We had a pre-breakfast excursion to visit a nearby migrant trap at Wadi Nekarof which was hopping with warblers before returning for a full amazing buffet breakfast packed up and headed further south through the amazing Negev. Birding on route to the mecca of birding Eilat. First stop was the incredible Meyshar with roving feeding flocks of colorful Yellow Wagtails, larks and pipits. Lunch break at Neot Smadar before checking into our luxurios hotel complex in Eilat. Afternoon birding the famous K 20 salt ponds with hoards of Flamingo, shorebirds and gulls. Another scrumptious buffet dinner at our hotel.

March 27: –Armed with a pincnic breakfast we headed north pre dawn into the stark but very scenic Southern Negev to Wadi Hemda where we were greeted by the cool sunrise but quickly warmed up as we nailed our target bird the stupendous Greater Hoopoe Lark amongst many others including a surprise the the rare Macqueen’s Bustard. Returning via Samar for the Black Bush Robin. We then drove up into the breathtaking region of Amram Pillars to locate some desert specialities before returning to Eilat. Enjoying lunch at the fantastic Falafel at Falefel Halev Harahav in Eilat which became a favorite with the group with its great food and courteous quick and personal service. After a break at the hotel we enjoyed an afternoon birding the K20 salt ponds followed by the K 19 sewage works and a successful evening wait for the famous poorly-known Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse to come into drink.

March 28:- An exciting early morning at the famous Eilat ringing station, in full International Bird Research Center in Eilat (IBRCE). Where we enjoyed seeing some great birds in the hand highlight being a lovely male Little Bittern. Birding the reserve and its hides and pools before driving the short distance before climbing up into the Eilat moutains and Mount Shlomo for raptor migration. Afternoon returning to bird around the IBRCE and Sachamon Park a migrant trap before enjoying the late evening on the famous North Beach.

March 29:- Returning to bird and observe the reserve again from the IBRCE blinds and the pools. K19 & K20 North Beach, Fields and returning late afternoon to IBRCE when it was quieter.

March 30:- Sadly we bid a farewell to Eilat with our picnic breakfasts and travel north early through the ever changing Negev. First stop the Neof Smadar and its sewage ponds, Uvada Valley, Moshav Ein Yahav and finally to the outskirts of our Dead Sea complex the rich Navit pools. Checking into our lovely hotel before enjoying the amazing views of the impressive Dead Sea followed bu another fantastic buffet dinner spread.

March 31: - A wonderful breakfast spread was followed by visiting the iconic historical site of Masada and its impressive views over the Judean Desert and a place so dear to the hearts of the Jewish people. We enjoyed a fabulous meal at the Taj Mahal where we enjoyed Bedouin style authentic Mediterranean style foods with excellent friendly service. Afternoon break to enjoy the Dead Sea before birding to Lot reservoir and Nauit Pools.

April 1:- After a fine breakfast we began our easy transition north with birding stops towards our destination Jerusalem. First stop the rich Lot reservoir and Wadi Mishmar before stopping at the famous Ein-Gedi oasis and Wadi David. Later we climbed up the road to Metzukey Dargot with a superb lookout over the northern Dead Sea before lunch. Our lunch stop along the road produced a huge raptor and stork migration which we enjoyed. Afternoon driving onto the biblical city of Jerusalem and our charming hotel with its birdy grounds.

April 2:- This was our full-day tour of Old Jerusalem, and one with minimal birding. However, we did start the day by visiting the banding station at the Jerusalem Bird Observatory (JBO), operated by the Society for the Protection for Nature in Israel. Combined with birding from the blind and observing

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 19 Southern Israel, 2019 ringing the star of the morning was a cool Wryneck in the hand. Followed by an incredible interesting guided tour of the old city of Jerusalem with wonderful lunch with freshly squeezed Pomegranite Juice. Optional late afternoon birding around our hotel was very rewarding.

April 3: – Most participants departed for home this day, while others stayed to continue exploring on their own or for other reasons.

Top seven birds elected by the group

1- Greater Hoopoe-Lark (its truly incredible display, singing all the time!) 2- Macqueen’s Bustard (the headless chicken display was my highlight) 3- Bluethroat 4- 5- Little Crake 6- Sand Partridge 7- Arabian Green Bee-eater & Wryneck and Black Bush-Robin

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The superb very active Arabian Green Bee-eater © Andrew Whittaker

BIRDS

The following order of the field list and nomenclature are those given by James F. Clements in eBird/Clements Checklist of Birds of the World: v2017. Understanding the classification of birds around the world and keeping up with ever-occurring changes in their relationships and nomenclature is a challenging affair, particularly when considering that there are other reputable classification systems that recognize “splits and lumps” of species in a different manner than the system we use. Alternative names and taxonomic splits not recognized by the Clements system are given in parenthesis ( ). Introduced species are indicated by (I). Underlined species indicate birds of very uncommon occurrence or species that occur in such low densities as to be easily missed. Bold-faced species indicate birds of rare, casual or accidental occurrence.

Birding in Israel not only presents an opportunity to see birds and other with ranges restricted to that part of the world, but it also offers a wonderful opportunity to see species that may be common in parts of Western Europe represented by regional variations that are distinct from their western counterparts, often mirroring the arid landscapes endemic of the region.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 21 Southern Israel, 2019 , Geese & Waterfowl ( ) Egyptian ( Alopochen aegyptiaca ) ( Spatula querquedula ) – A very strong migrant wintering in central and eastern Africa. Always a shy duck and not easy to see. Normally seen as singles or in pairs however we were lucky enough to see several flocks biggest near on 70 birds in Eilat. ( Anas clypeata ( Anas platyrhynchos ) ( Anas acuta ) – A few lovely males on Eilat K20 saltponds. (Common) Green-winged Teal ( Anas crecca crecca ) –The North American “Green-winged” Teal occurs widely across the U.S. and Canada; however, the Eurasian birds are of the distinct crecca race known as Common Teal, regarded by many authorities as separate from the American carolinensis . Regardless of where you stand on this classification issue, the Eurasian birds are easily recognizable by their lack of a pale bar at the base of the breast feathers and the presence of a fine white border around their facial markings. Ferruginous Duck ( Aythya nyroca ) – We had great scope looks at stunning males. Sadly this lovely species is in rapid decline throughout its range and is now on The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species as of 2017.

Pheasants, Grouse & Allies ( ) Sand Partridge ( Ammoperdix heyi ) – We first saw a pair of these beautiful small partridges well north of Eilat. Chukar ( Alectoris chukar ) – Chukars are part of the attractively patterned Alectoris partridges native to the Old World introduced to parts of the US for hunting.

Flamingos (Phoenicopteridae) ( Phoenicopterus roseus ) – Fantastic studies of flocks of hundreds of these spectacular birds at K20 salt ponds with one almost completely black melanistic bird!

Grebes ( Podicipedidae ) Little ( Tachybaptus ruficollis ) – We saw these small – affectionately nicknamed Dabchicks in Europe several times. Eared Grebe ( Podiceps nigricollis ) – Birds of the Eurasian P. n. nigricollis are known as Black-necked Grebe.

Pigeons & Doves ( ) Rock Pigeon ( Columba livia ) European Turtle-Dove ( Streptopelia turtur ) – Wonderful close up studies of this gorgouse delicately marked migrant. Eurasian Collared-Dove ( Streptopelia decaocto ) – Numerous and common in a variety of habitats, even far from civilization. Laughing Dove ( Streptopelia senegalensis ) – Many participants thought this species was beautiful, and rightly so. Fortunate for us, there was not a single day we did not have an opportunity to see it. Namaqua Dove ( Oena capensis ) - A distinctive and lovely well marked tiny dove we saw two males extremely well, observing the lovely rufous primaries and long tail in flight.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 22 Southern Israel, 2019 Sandgrouse ( Pteroclidae ) ( Pterocles senegallus ) – Seen extremely well at the sewage pools with numerous flocks circling and calling and quickly landing at the edge of a nearby pool to drink. Certainly on of the many trip highlights for me. What a great voice! Remember Meidad had this as his mobile ring tone too! Black-bellied Sandgrouse ( Pterocles orientalis ) – Also a few smaller flocks well seen with Spotted at the sewage pools. Traditionally, sandgrouse have been classified as close relatives to pigeons, with stout bodies and long, pointed wings. Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse ( Pterocles lichtensteinii ) – A pair of these poorly-known birds was seen at dusk in Eilat graced the sewage ponds.

Bustards ( Otididae ) Macqueen’s Bustard ( Chlamydotis macqueenii ) – One of the most anticipated species of the tour, and one of the region’s most vulnerable species, with steep declines across its range due to hunting pressures. It is also known as the Asian Houbara, reflecting its recent split from the African Houbara Bustard. Bustards are enigmatic species due to their relatively large size yet cryptic plumage and behavior, and the expansive realms they inhabit, so it is no surprise that this rare and extremely shy species presented an alluring pursuit. There are no more than 120 individuals estimated in Israel, so the chances of finding one can be low. However we set out to the Nitzana region in the western Negev, near the border with Egypt to scan the sandy and arid expanse in search of bustards. Soon, we had one in the scopes. The headless chicken display was austounding and for me the top highlight of the trip! With its sand- colored uppers and bold black stripe down the necks and white and black feathers puffed out around the head it was a truly remarkable experinence! We then found a second displaying male in a remote wadi north of Eilat. Later Jaqueline and I on our holiday went back and saw him at a distance displaying. Through the scope we noted he had a red colour band on (ringed in Jordon) where they had captive bred and released birds. Later to our amazement we observed a female come into the wadi and sneaking around I assumed she may well have a nest. Watching from a distance through my scope she slowly came into a bushy area head down and sat on a nest! This is the first confirmed breeding record for the area of southern Israel in 20 years so a major conservation boost for this threatened species. She too was color ringed from Jordon. Ironically they were bred for relase to be hunted by wealthy oil shieks as it’s a prized prey item for these falconers to hunt. Certainly in Israel they are gladly totally protected!

Cuckoos (Cuculidae) Common ( Cuculus canorus ) ( Clamator glandarius ) – A bird in flight only from the bus.

Nightjars & Allies ( Caprimulgidae ) Nubian Nightjar (R) ( Caprimulgus nubicus ) – We saw this poorly-known range restricted species but not at all well only in flight as it was very nervous.

Swifts ( Apodidae )

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 23 Southern Israel, 2019 Alpine Swift ( Apus melba )- Lovely studies ( Apus apus ) ( Apus pallidus )

Rails, Gallinules & Coots ( Rallidae ) Water Rail ( Rallus aquaticus ) – Seen very well by some in the hides in Eilat. Spotted Crake ( Porzana porzana ) – A good find and seen briefly but well by all in the flooded area with . Little Crake ( Zapornia parva ) – Simply MEGA views for all from the IBRCE hides! To observe both male and female was fantastic and a highlight. Nowhere else in Europe can you see these reedbed ghosts so well as in Eilat on spring migration! Baillon’s Crake ( Zapornia pusilla ) – Same as Little Crake MEGA views but interestingly no sexual dimorphisum! Eurasian Moorhen ( Gallinula chloropus ) – Seen well at almost all locations with water. Important to remember that the bird of the Americas is the Common Gallinule ( Gallinula galeata ), is in fact now a different species being split recently. Eurasian Coot ( Fulica atra ) – Seen well at almost all locations with water. African Swamphen ( Porphyrio madagascariensis ) – WOW what a beuty we had marvelous scope views of the reed eating monster! Recently colonized Israel but still uncommon.

Thick-knees ( Burhinidae ) Eurasian Thick-knee ( Burhinus oedicnemus ) – We enjoyed close views of a recently fledged bird near K20 but sadly and rather amazingly no adults!

Stilts & ( ) Black-winged Stilt ( Himantopus himantopus ) – Smart birds and common.

Plovers & ( ) Spur-winged Lapwing ( Vanellus spinosus ) – We were accompanied by this striking lapwing nearly everywhere we went. It is a charismatic and memorable species that would have been a favorite had it not been so utterly common. Kentish Plover ( Charadrius alexandrinus ) – We saw a handful of these neat small at K20. ( Charadrius hiaticula ) – K20 Salt ponds. ( Charadrius dubious ) – We saw this compact and very lovely delicate plover at K20 and IBRCE with its distinct yellow eye ring and lack of wingbar.

Sandpipers & Allies ( Scolopacidae ) ( Numenius phaeopus )- bye at IBCE by some . Your dark rumped North American birds are now called Hudsonian Whimbrel, Numenius hudsonicus ! Also your Hudsonian Whimbrel has cinnamon underwings not white. Black-tailed Godwit ( Limosa limosa ) – A large flock of a couple of dozen birds in basic plumage were seen at K20. Ruff ( Calidris pugnax ) – Abundant some males starting to come into breeding plumage.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 24 Southern Israel, 2019 Temminck’s Stint ( Calidris temminckii ) – We enjoyed good looks allowing us to observe them and make note of their potbellied shapes, dingy breasts and scaly upperparts and short yellow legs . Also allowing us to compare them to the abundant commoner Little Stints. Little Stint ( Calidris minuta ) – Stints are small calidridine sandpipers; what we call “peeps” in North America. ( Calidris alpina ) –This is the same species that is found in North America, but the birds we saw were likely of the alpina subspecies that breeds in northern Europe and Russia and winters along the Mediterranean. Curlew ( Calidris ferruginea ) – Only very few this year. Common Snipe ( Gallinago gallinago ) – Only a couple this year one with odd plumage and very pale unmarked underwing pattern. Once, this species was lumped with the American Wilson’s Snipe ( G. delicata ) from which it was split many years ago. Red-necked Phalarope (R) ( Phalaropus lobatus ) – Excellent looks at IBRCE some coming into colorful breeding plumage. Was a treat watching them spinning around feeding on small invertebrate from the blind. ( Actitis hypoleucus ) – When members of the tour started calling out “Spotted” sandpipers during our first days of the tour, it was easy to guess they were really seeing this closely related species, which is nearly identical during nonbreeding, and has the same pulsating wingbeat style. ( ochropus ) – Nice looks finally. This species is in many respects similar to the Solitary Sandpiper of the Americas, occupying similar niches and even sporting blackish underwings unlike most other sandpipers. ( Tringa erythropus ) – Nice views coming into the breeding plumage which is all black below all birds we saw had dark spots coming in. For the first time I now understand why they are called Spotted Redshank! Nice comparisons with Redshank mostly in breeding plumage also spotted below one could see Spotted Redshank had the longer bill with red base and a prominent white eye brow. ( Tringa nebularia ) – Common at saltponds ( Tringa stagnatilis ) –We had superb views of this lovely delicate sandpiper with its mega thin bill. One bird with a pale green color ring was interesting but sadly we could not discover where it was banded. ( Tringa glareola ) – Good numbers one of the commonest waders. ( Tringa totanus ) – The redshanks are in many respects the Old World parallels of the yellowlegs of the Americas, with the Common Redshank being the smaller of the two, and most regularly found during this season in Israel.

Pratincoles & Coursers ( ) Cream-colored ( Cursorius cursor ) – An exciting NEW family for many. This odd beuty was hard to see only fairly distant in flight or camouflaged on the ground through the scope. Almost reminiscent of a tiny bustard but are in fact most closely related to Crab Plover! Their upright posture, small head, long dark underwings and long legs and short toes are adapted to quickly flight and running through sparsly vegetated sandy deserts. ( Glareola pratincola ) – Lovely studies on the deck at K20 of this majestic bird especially its tern like flights catching insects over the K19 sewage works.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 25 Southern Israel, 2019

Gulls, & Skimmers ( ) Slender-billed Gull (Chroicocephalus genei ) – This and the following species are closely related, and in many respects quite similar during the nonbreeding season. While Black-headed is widespread throughout the continent, breeding across large portions of the interior, Slender-billed is much less common, breeding sporadically along a more southern belt around the Mediterranean, Black and Caspian sea basins. It is also a more elegant and attenuated bird, aptly named for the longer bill and sloping forehead that readily separates it from its relative. We found Israel to be one of its major wintering grounds. Black-headed Gull ( Chroicocephalus ridibundus ) –As stated above, the Chroicocephalus gulls have many similarities, and this species no doubt recalled the smaller Bonaparte’s Gull of North America. White-eyed Gull ( Ichthyaetus leucophthalmus )- A Red Sea endemic seen off North Beach. Pallas’s (Great Black-headed) Gull ( Ichthyaetus ichthyaetus ) – Fantastic looks at three of this much wanted huge gull! Heuglin’s Gull ( Laruss fuscus heuglini ) – Leader only. Baltic Gull ( Laruss fuscus fuscus ) – We saw several of these black-backed migrating and on the saltponds in Eilat. Used to be lumped with Lesser-black-backed Gull. Gull-billed Tern ( Gelochelidon nilotica ) ( Hydroprogne caspia ) – Lovely breeding plumaged adults at Eilat. Whiskered Tern ( Childonias hybrida ) – Surprisingly only one at K19. Birds in the Chlidonias are known as Marsh Terns, and include the ( C. ) that is found in the Old World and the Americas. ( Thalasseus sandvicensis )

Storks ( Ciconiidae ) ( Ciconia ciconia ) – Simply stunning migrations of these magnificent birds.

Cormorants & Shags ( Phalacrocoracidae ) Great ( Phalacrocorax carbo )

Herons, & ( Ardeidae ) Little Bittern ( Ixobrychus minutus ) – Wonderful looks in the hand at IBRCE being ringed plus in the hides seen by some. Gray Heron ( Ardea cinerea ) – This was a common bird This is another species that at first glance appears like the familiar Great Blue Heron of North America. It was fun to observe the subtle traits diagnostic of Gray Heron, including the gray “thigh” feathers and lack of any rufous or buff tones overall. Birds gliding-in head-on showed several bold white patches lining the leading edge of the wings, more noticeable than on Great Blue. Purple Heron ( Ardea purpurea ) – A single superb adult perched in the marsh in the Dead Sea. Others were migrating flybys in Eilat! Great ( Ardea alba ) ( Egretta garzetta ) – This is yet another wader that echoes a similar species in the western hemisphere – the Snowy Egret. ( Bubulcus ) – Sometimes known as Western Cattle Egret.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 26 Southern Israel, 2019 Squacco Heron ( Ardeola ralloides ) – Wonderful species seen fighting for best fishing spots at K19 sewage ponds. Black-crowned Night-Heron ( Nycticorax nycticorax )

Ibises & ( ) ( Plegadis falcinellus ) –This is the same species found throughout the Americas, Africa, Eurasia and Australasia. ( Platalea leucorodia ) – This is a beautiful bird that is easy to overlook for it can easily blend with nearby egret when found in large concentration

Osprey ( Pandionidae ) ( Pandion haliaetus ) – Common migrant. While Ospreys are nearly cosmopolitan and quite variable even within North America, it was very interesting to observe the differences between this bird – of the Eurasian P. h. haliaetus subspecies – and the familiar North American carolinenesis . The richness of the bird’s upperpart coloration and the strong rusty tinge of its “necklace” were plumage traits seldom seen in North American birds.

Vultures, , Eagles & Kites ( ) Egyptian Vulture ( Neophron percnopterus ) – Superb looks of this snazzy Vulture. Eurasian Griffon ( Gyps fulvus ) – Upon arriving to the spectacular Avdat Canyon it did not take long to find Griffons landing on cliff sides, at first circling with dangling legs until their tremendous forms were absorbed into the surrounding canyon walls, allowing us great scope views. At least one of the birds wore a tag on its wing, part of a closely monitored conservation effort. Tragically, vultures throughout the Old World have declined dramatically due to illegal shooting, at times due to persecution and superstition, and from widespread poisoning practices. Nonetheless, great views of this regal scavenger mantled with its thick feathered collar recalled images of a wilderness in the badlands of antiquity that we hope will persist for generations to come. Short-toed Snake-Eagle ( Circaetus gallicus )- Marvelous looks especially the soaring bird below us! (Clanga pomarina ) – This eagle and the following species were once considered part of the Aquila eagle tribe, but have now been moved to their own genus Clanga . Large numbers of “spotted eagles” migrate through Israel during the spring and fall. ( Hieraaetus pennatus ) – WOW the fantastic observation of a hunting bird stooping and nailing a feral pigeon with an explosion of feathers will long remain in my memory! ( Aquila nipalensis ) – Main migration had passed through Eilat. Eurasian Marsh-Harrier ( Circus aeruginosus ) –This the largest of harriers was the commonest. It is a beautiful bird that is quite different from the harriers we see in North America, yet confusion in the name persisted due to the moniker “Marsh ” given to the Northern Harrier in the U.S. once upon a time. However, there should be no doubt that this is quite a different predator, and stunning in its own right. Most birds seen were either females or young birds. Hen Harrier ( Circus cyaneus ) – We saw a single lovely male Hen Harrier during this tour. Superficially recalled the familiar Northern Harrier ( C. hudsonius ) of the Americas. At

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 27 Southern Israel, 2019 one point both were thought to be one species, yet experts clearly understood the differences in their appearance, primarily in wing shape and molting sequence, not to mention distribution. Pallid Harrier ( Circus macrourus ) – Arguably this is the most beautiful of the region’s four harrier species, for the stark pale plumage of adult males – true “Gray Ghosts” – and for the elegance of its flight dictated by narrower pointed wings. Eurasian Sparrowhawk ( Accipiter nisus ) – Unlike what some of our most season birders may remember, the “sparrowhawk” is not a – as our American Kestrel was once called – but a member of the Accipiters , or true hawks. ( Milvus migrans ) –Common but nonetheless, this is a beautiful species with a buoyant and delicate flight manner that is always a treat to observe. ( Buteo buteo ) and Steppe Buzzard ( Buteo b. vulpinus ) – While these two taxa are considered to be a single species, they are separable in the field due to their distinct plumage differences, and their movements. While the western Palearctic’s “Common” Buzzard is an irregular resident and winter species throughout Israel, the eastern Steppe Buzzard migrates through in the hundreds of thousands in the spring and fall. We enjoyed some good numbers but if we had not had predominatly easterly winds in Eilat we would have seen many more! This latter subspecies can be typically differentiated from the nominate by rustier plumage, and often noticeably browner tails, though it is quite variable. Long-legged Buzzard ( Buteo rufinus ) – We saw this stunning and powerful buteo on our first day. Its distinct colour longer wings, and their tails glowing reddish against the sky.

Owls ( Strigidae ) ( Athene noctua ) – We saw a single Little Owl on our first day The Little Owl is in the same genus as the Burrowing Owl of the Americas, and very similar. In the Middle East it is represented by the lilith subspecies, which is significantly paler and more sand- colored than the western European birds.

Hoopoes ( Upupidae ) ( Upupa epops ) – This coveted species was as spectacular as ever! We all finally enjoyed this stunning species in detail when a very cooperative hoopoe foraged infront of us This ranked among the top three species of the tour for a number of participants.

Kingfishers ( Alcedinidae ) White-throated Kingfisher ( Halcyon smyrnensis ) – Wonderful this is a stunning bird with bold color, and always managed to get our attention regardless of how many times we encountered it. ( Ceryle rudis ) – We had several encounters with this stunning species and enjoyed its hovering fishing antics allowing for exquisite views. This kingfisher also ranked as a favorite for tour participants.

Bee-eaters ( Meropidae ) Green Bee-eater ( Merops orientalis cyanophrys ) – Not surprisingly, this stunning, colorful species was another tour favorite. These are the “Arabian” Green Bee-eaters of the

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 28 Southern Israel, 2019 cyanophrys subspecies, distinct by their all-blue throats and supercilia. As if these birds were not stunning enough when perched, their translucent orange wings as seen when they fly overhead is among the most memorable experiences of the tour. European Bee-eater ( Merops apiaster ) - * Sadly heard many days but due to the odd spring weather were always feeding high above us in the clouds.

Woodpeckers ( Picidae ) Eurasian Wryneck ( Jynx torquilla ) – WOW WEE to see in the hand at JBO was a treat and one of my trip highlights. Watching its histerical predator neck twisting had me in tears! We also saw this odd Woodpecker with its nightar plumage a couple more times once well anting on the lawn in the park in Eilat. Syrian Woodpecker ( Dendrocopus syriacus ) – Good looks at JBO.

Falcons ( ) ( Falco naumanni ) – Neat looking migrant. Clearly able to see the longer tailed appearance from similar Eurasian Kestrel as they hunted insects. Eurasian Kestrel ( Falco tinnunculus ) – We saw this species nearly every day of the tour, in a wide range of habitats, often hovering over an expanse in search of prey.

Old World ( Psittaculidae ) Rose-ringed Parakeet ( Psittacula krameria ) – We saw these attractive parakeets many times It was always a delightful experience. The species is native to sub-Saharan Africa and Asia, but has long been established in Israel.

Shrikes ( Laniidae ) Great Gray Shrike complex: (Arabian) Great Gray Shrike ( excubitor aucheri / formerly considered part of Southern Gray Shrike ( Lanius meridionalis ) – This is the resident gray, black and white shrike found commonly in Israel, though sparsely distributed. Recent genetic work on the “gray” shrikes of the Northern Hemisphere has readjusted their classification. The gray aucheri shrike found from northeastern Africa through the Middle East had recently been lumped with Lanius meridionalis , but authorities have now relegated that nomenclature exclusively to shrikes from the Iberian Peninsula. As featured in the 2018 edition of Clements, aucheri is now a subspecies of Great Gray Shrike. We saw this boldly-plumaged “Arabian” form on the 8 th distantly at Nitzana, on the 11 th briefly near the Dead Sea, and on the 14 th in the Beit She’an Valley. ( Lanius nubicus ) – Simply the best shrike out, wonderful! ( Lanius senator ) – Neat looker and the commonest shrike.

Crows, Jays & ( ) Eurasian ( Garrulus glandarius ) – JBO. Eurasian Jackdaw ( Corvus monedula ) – Jackdaws are rather compact corvids seen in JBO. House ( Corvus splendens ) – Eilat arrived on boats and spread. ( Corvus cornix ) – A common and widespread bird.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 29 Southern Israel, 2019 Brown-necked Raven ( Corvus ruficollis ) – We saw this distinct species through the Negev and near the Dead Sea. Fan-tailed Raven ( Corvus rhipidurus ) – We saw this interesting corvid and studied them well at Masada and En Gedi.

Larks ( Alaudidae ) Greater Hoopoe-Lark ( Alaemon alaudipes ) My second top bird of the trip after the bustard. What a cool looking bird and such a fantastic display we were all treated too! The song caries for ever in the dry quiet desert as you saw from how far we had to walk out to the two territories we found. How it can continue singing so loud even during its vertical stoop simply amazed me! No wonder this rare desert lover was rated TOP BIRD of the trip by all! Bar-tailed Lark ( Ammomanes cinctura ) – Lovely song too. Desert Lark ( Ammomanes deserti ) – A true desert dweller a subtly yet well-camouflaged denizens of arid realms. Greater Short-toed Lark ( Calandrella brachydactyla ) – Some huge migrating flocks never letting us get to close sadly. ( Galerida cristata ) – Extremely common and vocal! ( Lullula arborea ) – A nice find by Meidad in migration in an odd place.

Swallows ( Hirundinidae ) Bank ( riparia ) ( Ptyonoprogne fuligula ) – We saw this pale swallow species along dramatic cliff landscapes, from the rim of Makhtesh Ramon, throughout the Negev and particularly over the fields at Sde Boker. Foraged at low altitudes, allowing for great views of their subtle sand-colored plumage. Used to be called Pale . ( rustica ) – The familiar Barn Swallow breeds across the Northern Hemisphere and is represented by half a dozen subspecies that range in the color of males’ underparts from near-white in the Western Palearctic to deep rufous in northeastern Africa. The subspecies we primarily saw is the richly-colored transitiva , more deeply orange than the American erythrogaster . We also saw saw a lot of very pale birds that may have been the Eurasian H. r. rustica . Red-rumped Swallow ( daurica )- Simply lovely ! Common House-Martin ( urbicum )

Tits, Chickadees & Titmice ( Paridae ) ( Parus major ) – We saw this species at JBO on nut bags.

Penduline-Tits ( Remizidae ) Eurasian Penduline-Tit ( Remiz pendulinus ) * – The secretive Penduline-Tit was sadly only heard.

Bulbuls ( Pycnonotidae ) White-spectacled Bulbul ( Pycnonotus xanthopygos ) – This was one of the most regularly seen birds of the tour, observed every day at a variety of habitats. While we may have grown too accustomed to their presence, it was difficult to dismiss their sweet whistles first

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 30 Southern Israel, 2019 thing in the morning, or their bold black, gray and yellow plumage as pairs foraged through trees, or as they sallied from brushy expanses.

Bush-Warblers & Allies ( Cettidae ) (Eastern) Scrub Warbler ( Scotocerca inquieta ) – We had a great encounter as we caught up with a family partyand one of the two fledged youngsters even landed on the van bumper for a while to get shelter from the wind! Also called Levant Scrub Warbler too. Cetti’s Warbler ( Cettia cetti ) – *

Leaf Warblers ( Phylloscopidae ) Eastern Bonelli’s (Balkan) Warbler (Phylloscopus orientalis ) – Many excellent studies, loves hover gleaning from terminal branches of shrubs. (Phylloscopus trochilus ) – Leader only. ( Phylloscopus collybita ) – Abundant we saw this species every day in nearly every habitat and nearly every birding situation, whether we were waiting for desert birds at a wadi, or at the edge of a marsh, migratory and wintering Chiffchaffs were always actively foraging nearby. Yellow-browed Warbler ( Phylloscopus inornatus ) – A great find in the park in Eilat. Rare in spring in Isreal more of an autumn vagrant which came in with the eastern winds! Hume’s Leaf Warbler ( Phylloscopus humei ) – Second rarest find of the trip! Another from the easterlies from Asia. Small numbers found in Israel annually.

Reed-Warblers & Allies ( ) Eastern Olivaceous Warbler ( Iduna pallida ) – Nice studies in Eilat not many in yet as it was a late spring. ( Acrocephalus schoenobaenus ) – A few seen well in Eilat from the blinds. (Acrocephalus melanopogon) – We got clear views, though briefly and after a focused pursuit of a single individual that foraged relatively close to us on a reedy patch at the water’s edge and blind in Eilat, though never easy to find due to their skulking behavior. ( Acrocephalus scirpaceus ) – We saw a handful of Reed Warblers plus in the hand at JBO. Here they are distinctly paler than birds typical of western Europe and fit appearance-wise into the fuscus mold, the so-called Caspian subspecies breeding from the eastern Mediterranean into Central Asia. Greater Reed Warbler ( Acrocephalus arundinaceus ) – Nice studies of this monster warbler around the Dea Sea with a pair showing nicely. Clamorous Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus stentoreus ) – One of the most interesting warblers we spent several minutes one afternoon near the dead sea Listening to its great song and watching one foraging in and out of a dense strand of towering reeds by a lake. We even got it in the scope! With its long and fine bill, overall richly-colored brown plumage and upright posture, this bird really made an impression. The birds of Israel are resident, of the subspecies levantinus , which tend to be quite dark.

Cisticolas & Allies ( Cisticolidae ) Graceful Prinia ( Prinia gracilis ) – Common seen well in Eilat.

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Sylviids ( ) ( Sylvia atricapilla ) – One of the most abundant warblers.The birds passing through the Middle East are likely of two migratory populations en route to Africa: the Eurasian atricapilla , and the Transcaucasian dammholzi . Lesser Whitethroat ( Sylvia ) – The commonest warbler and nice looker. Interestingly its migration is unique as all birds (even from western Eruope) take this migration through the Middle East! When most western European warblers go through Iberia and cross ito ne Africa there. Eastern Orphean Warbler ( Sylvia crassirostris ) – Not many but nice to have comparisons in the hand with the smaller Lesser Whitethroat at JBO. Ruppell’s Warbler ( Sylvia ruppeli ) – Simply my favorite and we saw many great stunning males! A true eastern Mediterranian endemic. Greater Whitethroat ( Sylvia communis ) – Not to many. Spectacled Warbler ( Sylvia conspicillata ) – Hard to see well on our first day as they were breeding. However still a very cool looker. ( Sylvia melanocephala ) – Brief looks first morning for some. Eastern Subalpine Warbler ( Sylvia cantillans ) – Lovely male in one of the parks in Eilat with the Yellow-browed. Recently split into two forms Eastern versus Western. Eastern males being brighter dark-brik red upper breast and throat.

Laughingthruses & Allies ( Leiothrichidae ) Arabian Babbler ( Turdoides squamiceps ) – These boisterous and gregarious denizens of arid bushlands are quite evocative of the region’s wilderness.

Old World Flycatchers ( Muscicapidae ) European Robin (Erithacus rubecula) – We found this adorable species only at JBO and around our hotel. Black Scrub-Robin (R) ( Cercotrichas podobe ) – A great find thanks to Meidad and marvelous views recently spread into Israel but still only a handful of pairs! Trush Nightingale ( Luscinia luscinia ) – One seen by leader outside our hotel by the Dead Sea. Common Nightingale ( Luscinia megarhynchos ) – Great looks on a few occasions. We even were lucky enough to hear its incredibly wonderful song. One of the best in Europe! One very confiding migrant both at our hotel in Dead Sea complex and in Jerusalem. Bluethroat ( Luscinia svecica ) – This species is sought out for a good reason – its stunning appearance. While some make long treks to Alaska in hopes of getting views at settling into breeding habitats, the species can be a surprisingly cooperative in Israel. These perky chats energetically feeding on the ground, often cocking up tails, skirting bushes and flashing the multiple bands of color in their chests. We even had one male siging its varied and lovely song. Rightly voted one of the top three birds of the tour by several participants. Common Redstart ( Phoenicurus phoenicurus ) – We saw few migratory redstarts on three separate days. All the birds we saw were of the nominate subspecies. Sadly no so-called “Ehrenberg’s” Redstart of the more exotic looking subspecies samamisicus , which breeds from the Pontic Steppe through the and is readily recognized by white wing panels, which the nominate lack.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 32 Southern Israel, 2019 Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush ( Monticola saxatilis ) – Wonderful males first morning, always however fairly shy not allowing close approach. Blue Rock-Thrush ( Monticola solitarius ) – Also males and females seen first morning. ( Saxicola rubicola ) – This species is a widespread migrant to Israel. Siberian (Caspian) Stonechat ( Saxicola maurus ) – A great find and a highlight for me. We examined this species carefully with one lovely stunning male in the northern Negev. Until recently, the stonechats of the western Palearctic were considered one species with variable and distinct subspecies. One of the ways to separate this species from the prior is by examining the uppertail coverts and the lack of pattern as can be seen on females and immature birds. More than one subspecies winters and/or passes through Israel, complicating the matter. We saw a male of the subspecies vhemprichii that have substantially more white at the lateral bases of the upper tail, which normally are all dark in maurus and in European Stonechat. The form we saw is often split from Siberian into two one called Eastern and the form we saw called Caspian Stonechat! Blackstart ( Cercomela melanura ) – The Blackstart may lack some of the flash of its boldly- plumaged relatives, but it does not disappoint in terms of charisma. The species is a close relative of wheatears and some authorities place it in the Oenanthe genus. Like such, it is its tail that makes it memorable – contrastingly all black on an otherwise gray bird, it often fans it wide open when perched or alert. White-crowned Wheatear ( Oenanthe leucopyga ) – This wheatear of barren mountainous deserts is a gorgeous bird, and had it not been for the fact that we saw such a variety of stunning wheatears during this tour, it would be near the very top of the favorites list. Spectacular! Hooded Wheater ( Oenanthe monacha ) – Quick views a few times mostly from the bus along the road sides. ( Oenanthe oenanthe ) – This species is a widespread breeder throughout Eurasia, where it is typically referred as THE Wheatear, for it is the sole species of this large genus found throughout most of its range. The name is a derivation of the old folk term “white arse,” referring to the white base of the tail, distinctive of the species. Mourning Wheatear ( Oenanthe lugens ) – One of the many anticipated bird species of the tour – yet that could be said of nearly every Oenanthe, for few other families of birds evoke the wilderness of the Middle Eastern desert as do the wheatears. This is truly a gorgeous species. Boldly patterned black and white, it has the added distinction of having rusty undertail coverts. We spent time observing this bird, watching it display the black outlined patterned of its pale wings as it foraged from perched to perch and stood guard on boulders for all to see. Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica ) – Fairly common we got some cracking males. Desert Wheatear ( Oenanthe deserti ) – This is another stunning wheatear; its desert-colored back contrasts the black throat and black bar adjoining through the flanks to the wings. We saw just a single male at the Meyshar. In fact the team that won the race can thank us as they won by one species only and we showed the group this species! Persian Wheatear (Oenanthe chrysopygia ) – Fantastic studies of this Red-rumped split, only the second for Israel! Very lucky to enjoy this another trip highlight for me! ( Oenanthe isabellina ) – Due to its rather slender form and upright posture, this wheatear of the dry plains is quite distinctive, though it superficially resembles a non-breeding Northern Wheatear. Common throughout.

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Thrushes & Allies ( Turdidae ) Eurasian Blackbird ( Turdus merula ) – This close relative of the American Robin and as so not a true Blackbird but a thrush! ( Turdus philomelos ) – A few individuals.

Starlings ( Sturnidae ) (I) ( Acridotheres tristis) – This species was introduced into Israel relatively recently and has quickly established itself in human settlements throughout the country. We saw it regularly Tristram’s Starling ( Onychognathus tristramii ) – This is a beautiful species, easily overlooked for its overall dark plumage that overshadows a sliver of orange on the folded wings when perched. However, as flocks take off, the bold orange outer wings create a stunning spectacle as the birds veer in synchrony along the walls of desert canyons.

Sunbirds & Spiderhunters ( Nectariniidae ) Palestine ( Cinnyris osea ) – The are part of a large family, often called the hummingbirds of the Old Word due to their colorful iridescent and propensity for sipping nectar from flowers with their long bills. However, they are incapable of the aerial acrobatics of hummingbirds, and despite their small size and superficial similarity, are not related. We saw this beautiful gem multiple times.

Wagtails & Pipits ( ) Western Yellow Wagtail ( Motacilla flava ) – We saw many in the Meyshar planes and around Eilat. Mostly males of the stunning black headed subspecies feldegg and blue-gray headed flava. Also bema and thubergi . I am not sure maybe some splits here in the future lets see! Certainly all are really georgous! Citrine Wagtail (Motacilla citreola ) – This species is a stunning wagtail, and by far the least common. We always kept an eye out for it when scanning through the countless Yellow or White Wagtails. I was very happy to find a female Citrine Wagtail, with its lemon-washed underparts and distinct grayish washed back. Sadly not a male as they are mind blowingly stunning! ( Motacilla alba ) – We saw innumerable individuals of this charismatic species on every day of the tour. It is a very common migrant and winter resident in Israel. ( Anthus campestris ) – Although this species was present at a number of locations overrun by other pipits and wagtails, we only got to see one relatively well. Long-billed Pipit ( Anthus similis ) – A localized regional endemic seen first morning displaying. Tree Pipit ( Anthus trivalis ) – Only one. Red-throated Pipit ( Anthus cervinus ) – Sadly only fly overs and not perched!

Finches, Euphonias & Allies ( Fringillidae ) Trumpeter Finch ( Bucanetes githagineus )- A lucky group with me saw at close range a flighty male in the northern Negev. While others with Meidad had found a smart male Cretzschmar’s Bunting . ( Chloris chloris )

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Old World Sparrows ( Passeridae ) Ortolan Bunting ( Emberiza hortulana ) – Only a couple of nice males seen. Cretzschmar’s Bunting (Emberiza caesia) - A lucky group with Meidad saw at close range a stunning male in the northern Negev. While the others with me were enjoying a smart Trumpeter Finch feeding on the ground . ( domesticus ) – We saw this familiar species every day at various locations. ( Passer hispaniolensis ) – We saw this handsome sparrow several times. Dead Sea Sparrow ( Passer moabiticus ) – Some saw very well around marshes on the banks of the Dead Sea. Its nests were everywhere but proved difficult to get to grips with! ( Petronia petronia ) – Several seen of this odd looking critter some with nesting material first day. Nesting in rocks as name implies. Hill Sparrow ( Carpospiza brachydactyla ) – Singing a lot and very visible first orning and again in the Meyshar. Has a localized breeding range too.

Total of 198 species!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 35 Southern Israel, 2019 MAMMALS

Rabits & Hares (Leporidae ) Cape Hare ( Lepus capensis ) – We flushed one looking for Greater Hoopoe Larks north of Eilat. What a sprinter!

Hedgehog (Erinaceidae) Etiopean Hedghog ( Paraechinus aethiopicus ) – A lovely exciting find on the windy night we were looking for Pharaoh Eagle . Seeing this at arms length saved the night excursión!

Dogs ( Canidae ) Common (Golden) Jackal ( Canis aureus ) – We saw and heard this cool looking jackal at Eilat K19.

Gazzelle, Sheep & Goats (Bovidae ) Mountain Gazelle ( Gazella gazella ) – Gazelles in the Western Palearctic have been greatly affected by hunting and pastoralism practices, and most have restricted ranges and aren’t easy to find. This species is restricted to the Middle East, with only about 3,000 remaining in the wild, largely within Israel. We saw them on morning of day 1. Dorcas Gazelle ( Gazella dorcas ) – Is a relatively common gazelle widely distributed throughout most of north Africa, into the Sinai Peninsula and Israel, where they prefer deserts and wadis. It is the smallest gazelle of the Western Paearctic, and overall paler than Mountain Gazelle, with a less defined stripe on the flank and above the belly. We saw a few of them in the Negev. Nubian Ibex ( Capra nubiana ) – We saw this magnificent species with several huge alfa malesbeing numerous and confiding at the crater rim of Makhtesh Ramon – even drifting into town and in the road medians. Its an endangered species in the middle east due to hunting and thankfully as conservation of this species is wonderful in Israel the counter is one of its strongpoint.

Horses (Equidae) Asiatic Wild Ass ( Equus hemionus )- Sadly not seen but, hoof marks and dung, so close! Critically endangered and doing well in Israel but shy and hard to spot as we found out despite looking very hard!

Hyrax ( Procaviidae ) Rock Hyrax ( Procavia capensis ) – We saw several of these adorable yet unusual animals as they sunned on the walls at Ein-Gedi. Despite their pudgy and short-legged appearance, they scampered along the edges of the rocks and even climbed trees to fee all with ease and confidence. Amazingly they are most closely related to Elephants!

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Rock Hyrax © Andrew Whittaker

REPTILES Desert Agama (Trapelus pallidus ) – We saw a tatty looking mouting variant of this species in the desert north of Eilat while looking at the Greater Hoopoe Larks.

OTHER INTERESTING WILDLIFE

Desert Mantid sp north of Eilat.

BUTTERFLIES Red Admiral ( Vanessa atalanta ) Painted Lady ( Vanessa cardiu ) Lang’s Short-tailed Blue ( Leptotes pirithous ) Blue-spotted Arab ( Colotis phisadia ) Caper White ( Belenois aurota )

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