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FOOD FANATICS FOOD FOOD PEOPLE MONEY & SENSE PLUS Scallops Single Diners Learn and Adapt I’ll Drink to That! Dive in now, One can be a big number, Outsmart rising costs, Cold-press juice is hot, page 24 page 46 page 51 page 66 HOT TOMATOES! HOT Sharing the Love of Food—Inspiring Business Success HEIRLOOMS SHOW OFF THEIR VERSATILITY PAGE 7 SUMMER 2014 HOT TOMATOES! FOOD COVER STORY Garden Variety 7 Sky’s the limit when it comes to the growing power of heirloom tomatoes. Fried and True 12 What’s brined, battered and crispy all over? Everyone’s favorite chicken. Hot Diggity Dog 18 A red-hot moneymaker is right under your nose. Shell it Out 24 No need for a hard sell. Diners are happy to fork over the clams for scallops. FOOD PEOPLE Talk Shop 42 Feel like you’re getting ripped off? Trust your gut and learn to combat internal theft. THE TIME Single File IS RIPE, 46 One is the most profitable number PAGE 7 when it comes to table-turning solo diners. 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Suite 500 Rosemont, IL 60018 4 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2014 (847) 720-8000 www.usfoods.com Heat up the season with the FOOD latest trends Winner’s Circle Heirloom tomatoes trot out as the most prized possession of the summer COVER STORY NOTHING SAYS SUMMER LIKE a ripe red tomato, except that some of the most coveted varieties now span the color spectrum. These are the glorious heirlooms, highly anticipated for summer, wildly popular among chefs and a far cry from the 4x5 tomatoes TO-MAYTO grown to the specifications of a box. / / or TELL ME TO-MAHTO A STORY What’s an heirloom? Traditionally, heirloom tomatoes NO MATTER HOW YOU SLICE IT, represent cultivars that flourished in the remote past (typically a century ago or more) but were elbowed out of the HEIRLOOM VARIETIES ARE BELOVED way by commercial varieties that had more staying power but far BY ROBERT SIETSEMA less flavor. While commercial brands are hybridized, representing genetic crosses of several varieties, heirlooms are naturally occurring types specific to a geographic place. But now the term is also applied to newly created tomatoes that differ from the usual globes, plums, cherries and beefsteaks. 8 FOOD FANATICS | SUMMER 2014 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 9 Heirloom Tomato Salad “The variety of colors, textures and flavors is heirlooms instead of the usual globes or beefsteaks. Chef-owner Robert Phalen amazing,” says Executive Chef Bruce Lefebvre of Heirloom Cheat Sheet Chef AJ Black at Il Tesoro, with locations in One Eared Stag, Atlanta The Frog and The Peach in New Brunswick, N.J. “I Manhattan and Sanibel Island, Fla., plants colorful ❱ Beam’s Yellow Pear: This 2 pounds assorted heirloom tomatoes, sliced just wish the season was longer.” early 19th century tomato baby heirlooms in shades of bright yellow, purple Salt and pepper to taste The demand for heirlooms has pushed growers is thumb-sized, exceedingly and deep pink around an oozy plank of buffalo 1 cup tomato water, recipe follows into the hothouse, where a controlled environment sweet, bright yellow and mozzarella, garnishing it with micro-basil and 4 teaspoons preserved lemon, diced can produce seasonal copycats. But these aren’t the pear-shaped. siding it with wedges of grilled bread brushed with 4 slices house-cured salt pork, thinly sliced late-summer treasures that chefs crave. olive oil. 1 tablespoon bay leaf powder, recipe follows ❱ Black Prince: This early In the hands of Chef Richard Sandoval of Toro ½ cup fennel fronds, fried ripening variety is relatively Over the Rainbow Toro in Miami and Dubai, the caprese takes an even small and round, with colors Arrange tomatoes on a plate and season with salt Today’s heirlooms are bright red or orange, speckled wilder turn. He starts with Green Zebra and KBX ranging from dark red to and pepper. Pour tomato water on top. Sprinkle green and earthy brown, lemon yellow, purplish purplish. (yellow, medium heirloom) tomatoes, adds seedless with preserved lemon and lay a slice of pork on or even striped like a zebra. Their sizes range from watermelon balls, avocado and burrata, and drizzles top. Dust with bay leaf powder and garnish with micro-plum to massive, at two pounds or more. ❱ Brandywine: Among the the salad with a chipotle dressing. fried fennel fronds. Makes 4 servings. Figuring out which types best suit a menu’s purpose most popular heirlooms, these At One Eared Stag in Atlanta, Chef-owner Robert can be a real art form, chefs say. bulbous pink-red tomatoes Phalen takes tomatoes beyond the predictable. In To make tomato water, puree 5 Roma tomatoes, date to the late 19th century For example, Lefebvre perches the popular his heirloom tomato salad, he dresses sliced cherry 1 garlic clove, pinch coriander, ½ shallot, when Amish farmers in ¼ teaspoon parsley and 1 fresh bay leaf. Wrap in Brandywine (its bulbous shape is similar to the Pennsylvania cultivated them. and full-sized heirloom tomatoes with an extracted cheesecloth and hang in refrigerator overnight to classic beefsteak) atop butter lettuce, garnished They are larger than most tomato water made of herbs and plum tomatoes, catch liquid. Season with salt and pepper to taste. with strips of bacon, pine nuts and a cheddar heirlooms, averaging over a then sprinkles the salad with diced preserved lemon emulsion.