Just watchoutforthoseinfamousleeches. awayfromthemetalledroads. isjustamatterSo fornow,findingthe‘real’ ofhiking Sikkim architecturally lacklustre huddlesofmultistorey box-homes. more concrete villagescapesandmosttownsare hotels already protrudefromonce-idyllic heat.Every BengalisescapingtheKolkata year ing numbersofvisitors,mostlymiddle-class ShangriLas.Himalayan Buthurry.Inthelastfew yearsatouristboomhasseenever multiply- many pointsaroundthestate. autumnfestivalsof spectacular anditsmagnificentmultiplewhite peakscanbespiedfrom guardianspiritisworshippedinaseries world’s third-highestmountain.Khangchendzonga’s prayerflagssetonlongbamboopoles.through atmosphericavenues ofcolourful monasteries (gompas)addsplashesofvermilion tothegreen ridgetopsandare approached occasionally withriceterraces andgroves offloweringrhododendrons. Tibetan-style Buddhist warmJapanesesake.it’s abitlike Plunging mountainvalleysare lushlyforested, interspersed atmosphere, visitavillagetongba-barforsomelocalmilletbeer: savour sometrueSikkimese ’s mostfriendly,withacharmingmannerthat’sunobtrusive andslightlyshy.Toreally clean (plasticbagsare banned)andthemountainairisfresh. Bestofallthepeopleare among If you’re antidote.feeling istheperfect It’s jadedbytheheatandhasslesofIndia,Sikkim Sikkim 568 © LonelyPlanetPublications Fortunately, although Sikkim is tiny, its crazy contours make road construction very roadconstruction istiny,itscrazycontoursmake tough. althoughSikkim Fortunately, haslongbeenconsidered oneofthelast until1975,Sikkim An independentkingdom 8598m),the (Kanchenjunga; borderisKhangchendzonga Straddling theSikkim–

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

Supmilletbeerfromantiquated tongba-tubs Gaze awestruckatIndia’shighest mountain, Seetwogigantic religious at statuesface-off Get that betweentheendearingBuddhist Hike ( p590) iding in end-of-the-world hamlets like hamletslike in end-of-the-world café in ofa fromthecomfort Khangchendzonga, Yumthang Valley gompa villagesof to Goecha La ( p588)

( p579) Sound ofMusic ( p587) ( p582 ) orthestrenuous trek ( p590) feeling intheAlpine

55) and ( p585) Thanggu Tash-

Pelling Yuksom Namchi Goecha La Thanggu Tashiding Yumthang Valley SIKKIM 569 Phari

20 km

12 miles Chumbi Not Permitted Border Crossing T I B E T Valley

Chumbi C H I N A e g n a R B H U T A N not be correct. Only Gora-La Kupup authenticated and may

on this map have not been on this map have not Phimkaru-La P a n g o l a l o g n a P Border Crossing The external boundaries of India The external boundaries for Indian Citizens 0 0 Tsomgo (Changu) River (7125m) Rongli Pauhunri Ranipul Lungthung Alpine Yumthang Hot Springs Mt Katao Sanctuary

Yumthang Kyongosla Valley W E S T B E N G A L Tok Falls Seven Sisters Lake Ranipul Ranga Gurudongmar Yume Samdong 31A (6889m) Singhik Tashi November; April and May November; Mangan Population: 540,490 540,490 Population: 7096 sq km Area: Main language: Nepali to mid- September When to go: late Kangchengyao Viewpoint Labrang Sang

„ „ „ „ FAST FACTS FACTS FAST

In 1835 the British bribed Sikkim’s In 1835 the British bribed Sikkim’s chogyal

Melli Bazaar Lingdum Linzey River Teesta Thanggu Tsopta Teesta Bazaar Rumtek was later lost during wars with and lost during wars was later Nepal, and throughout the 19th century large Hindu Nepali migrants arrived, of numbers Sik- of eventually coming to form a majority kim’s population. to cede to the East India Company. (6829m) (2589m) Tendong Tolung Lachen (2488m) Kangra-La Chomoyummo Valley Tsopta Maenam Yangyang Hill (3150m) Muguthang Samdruptse

Manjhitar H i m a l a y a y a l a m i H Ralang Damthang Namchi Zemu Gangyap Glacier National Park Bagdogra (58km) To (45km); Khangchendzonga Narsing Solophok (5825m) Falls Phamrong Manglai

Reshi S i k k i m i k k i S Tashiding Pelling Naya (6601m) Bazaar Lake Kora Kang Green Yuksom Lam Pokha (5780m) Samiti Lake Siniolchu Pandim (6691m) Baktim Kokchuran Tsokha (8598m) Geyzing Thangsing Goecha La Phedang geet Soreng (20km)

Ran Sombare Khangchendzonga To Darjeeling Lake Darap

River Dentam

Great Uttarey

Khecheopalri Hillay Dzongri Jemathang Kabur (4810m) (6910m) Chaunrikhiang Darjeeling Nepal Peak

Dhor

SIKKIM •• History

Steep road to

Kabru

(7338m) Range Garakhet Singalila T I B E T Gomathang C H I N A Khang La Chewabhanjang

ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ

Singalila La N E P A L

At their most powerful the ’ rule At their most powerful the chogyals’

SIKKIM History and Darjeeling. However, much territory and Darjeeling. territory However, much encompassed eastern Nepal, upper Bengalencompassed eastern later moved to (near Pelling), then to Rabdentse (near Pelling), moved later - to (now hidden ruins behind finally settling in Gangtok. dong) before in 1641 they crowned Phuntsog Namgyal as in 1641 they crowned Phuntsog capital Sikkim. The (king) of chogyal first refugee Tibetan who bumped into each into each lamas who bumped Tibetan refugee Here modern-day Yuksom. of other at the site of arrived with three with three Buddhism arrived Mahayana of 13th century, followed by (Khambas)13th century, followed by Bhutias dur- in strife who fled from religious ing the 15th century. The Nyingmapa form Lepchas, the ‘original’ Sikkimese, migrated or (Burma) in the from here lonelyplanet.com SIKKIM those soaring mountains. TheYumthangand soaringmountains. those mer’s monsoonrainshidethemainattraction, When visitingSikkimtimingiscrucial.Sum- Climate bags andfiningpeoplewhopollute streams. aware vironmentally inIndia,banningplastic ment hasearnedareputation asthemosten- Sikkim DemocraticFront(SDF)stategovern- are inthecountry.Meanwhile thehighest the –andratesHimalayan standards of alcoholism As aresult by Sikkimissurprisinglyaffluent local industry–includingliquorproduction. road building,electricity,water suppliesand a tax-free zone,pouringcrores of into rupees ment theIndiangovernment hasmadeSikkim claim toSikkim,sobolster pro-Delhisenti- recognised officially hasnever India’s after arevolt bySikkim’sNepalipopulation. bytheIndiangovernment when hewasdeposed invasion of Tibet. would ‘justify’hisastonishingsingle-handed aboutincitingafracasthat he deliberately set There, armedwithlittlemore thanderring-do, twice trekked uptotheSikkim–Tibet border. James Bondcharacter FrancisYounghusband by Tibet real-life in1886.In1903-04,Britain’s Ganges plains,repulsing acounterinvasion thepresent Sikkimborderandthe between tensions, the Britishannexed theentire area strongobjections.In1849,amidrising raised Tibet, which regarded state, Sikkimasavassal 570 Sikkim’s last chogyal ruled from 1963 to 1975, Sikkim’s lastchogyal ruledfrom1963to1975, Bumchu under ‘Government Holiday’onwww.sikkim.gov.in. datesfrom Buddhistmythology.Exact generallyfollowtheTibetan lunarcalendar,handilylisted New Year. preceded by Losoong Teesta-Tea-Tourism Festival Dance Mahakala Diwali Phang Lhabsol Saga Dawa Drupchen Khachoedpalri Mela Losar most characteristic festivals feature dancesknownas masked colourful hasdozensSikkim of festivals, manyexplainedonwww.sikkiminfo.net/fairs&festivals.htm. The FESTIVALS INSIKKIM Chu dances every second year honouring . secondyearhonouring Chu dancesevery river-rafting competition. river-rafting IKM • lmt SIKKIM ••Climate (Feb/Mar; Pemayangtse, p584 , Rumtek, p577 biggest ) Sikkim’s

(Oct/Nov; widespread) Firework(Oct/Nov; timefortheNepalicommunity.

(Dec/Jan;widespread inclOldRumtek, p578 , Lingdum, p578 , Phodong, p588 NewYear,) Sikkimese (Jan/Feb; Tashiding Gompa, p588 ) chaam MyJn Rme, p577) Rumtek, (May/Jun;

(May/Jun; all monastery towns) Buddhist scriptures paradedthroughthestreets. allmonasterytowns)Buddhistscriptures (May/Jun; dancesinmany locations. (Aug/Sep; Ralang, Ralang, (Aug/Sep; p581 Khangchendzonga. danceshonouring ) Masked (Nov; Ralang, (Nov; Ralang, p581 ) (Mar/Apr; , Lake, Khecheopalri (Mar/Apr; p585 ) Buttercandlesfloatacross thelake. (Dec; Gangtok &Rumtek, (Dec; Gangtok p578 dancing,floraldisplays,archery anda ) Music, Chaam dances form part oftheannualgroup-meditationceremony, withTse dancesformpart

atthefollowing: tainable copies toapply.Permits are mosteasilyob- photosandpassportphoto- need you might arethese free andamere formality,although Entering Sikkimrequires a permit. Happily Standard Permits PERMITS vast difference. very few quiet.Those dayscanmake atruly before Puja,thingsare contrastingly tions (earlyOctober). immediately However, worst directly after theDurga Pujacelebra- monasteries get overrun. Crowdpressure is tourists: pricesdoubleandnormallyserene October andMay forBengali are seasons high Information plus AprilandMay. tomid-November islate September season December andFebruary. Sikkim’sbest Overall tober andwillscare brass monkeys between Tsopta Valleys are already very coldbyOc-

„ „ „ „ „ Major Foreigners’ RegionalRegistra- Sikkim TourisminSiliguri ( inKolkata Sikkim House p491 ) borderpostonarrival(but the Rangpo Indian Embassies abroadwhengetting (Bombay; p773 ( ) orDarjeeling p541 (Calcutta; in Kolkata ) p491 (FRROs), includingthosetion Offices ), Mumbai not atMelli orJorethang) (thebestsolution) your Indianvisa chaam dances take placejustbefore Tibetan dancestake chaams, retelling stories lonelyplanet.com

( p525 ) SIKKIM 571 poten- trekking 03592 / pop 31,100 / elev 1400-1700m Sikkim’s famous little leeches aren’t dan- little leeches famous Sikkim’s aren’t than the Rangpo–Mangan road, National than the Rangpo–Manganroad, National Highway 31A, thoughwrit- commonly it’s cryptically as 31ANHWay. The tourist ten line central banks and many shops office, Nearby Tibet Gandhi (MG) Marg. Mahatma to a travellers’ Gangtok gets Rd is the nearest enclave. GANGTOK GANGTOK % Sikkim’s capital is mostly a functional sprawl But true to its boxes. concrete multistorey of steeply name (meaning ‘hill top’) these are When mountain ridge. along a sharp layered clouds clear (typically at dawn), views are poking its inspiring, with Khangchendzonga horizon. the western nosepointy white above minor, Gangtok’s manmade attractions are but it’s not a bad place to wait out a day or permits or trips trekking two while organising to the north. Orientation spine is none other Gangtok’s crooked multiday group treks head into the really high into the really head multiday group treks mountains towards Goecha La at the base For this, permits and Khangchendzonga. of are and although there required guides are to follow pretty variants, most groups tend agencies ). Tour p587 the same ( much route no- areas, striving to open new trekking are across Zemutably the fabulous route Glacier Lake National in Khangchendzonga to Green ex- very However, the permits remain Park. while to arrange, months and take pensive close to are several routes other tempting off limits, at least so remain borders sensitive for now. EAST SIKKIM leechy terrain, letting them suck a little blood them suck a little blood letting leechy terrain, the stops to remove easier than endless is often rascals. morph-magician Activities considerable Sikkim offers follow age- between villages tial. Day hikes and normally don’t require old footpaths options are extra permits: the best-known Loop, notablyalong the Monastery between ). Nepal-style, p587 ( Yuksam and Tashiding gerous but they’re ubiquitous in damp grass. in damp ubiquitous they’re but gerous through If trekking wide paths. Stick to dry, permits for Tsomgo permits for Tsomgo permits. For foreigners, permits. For foreigners,

valid up to 15 days and or-

EAST SIKKIM •• Gangtok area permit is valid for visits to the permit is valid for visits

permits

roads extend. Man gan or Namchi (a less-reliable option). (a less-reliable gan or Namchi Man

Restricted ( p573 ) Pelling Gangtok Foreigner Registration Office Office Registration Gangtok Foreigner ) 5km from p582 police station ( Tikjuk most of West Sikkim to which paved paved West Sikkim to which most of South Sikkim South on the Gangtok–Singhik road anywhere and Lingdum Gangtok, Rumtek Superintendent of Police (SP) offices at of Superintendent „ „ „ „ „ „ „

Sikkim is generally a very safe place, but some safe a very Sikkim is generally add a certain un- tendencies locals’ alcoholic predictability. lers have every excuse to make friends. every excuse to make have lers Dangers & Annoyances hours. You’ll usually need a minimum group hours. two (sometimes four), so single travel- size of jeep, guide and agreed itinerary. Virtually any itinerary. Virtually any jeep, guide and agreed this within 24 can arrange Gangtok agency north of Singhik (maximum of five days/four five Singhik (maximum of north of through issued locally approved nights) are to join the agent’s You’ll have tour agencies. simply mean a rental ‘tours’ ‘tour’, but such ganised by trekking agents. agents. ganised by trekking (Changu) Lake trips) and visits anywhere (day trekking Special Permits Special Permits including the main High-altitude treks, Goecha La require routes, and Singalila Ridge additional special out to the Chinese border are nearest areas bounds entirely. of However, for more remote areas you’ll need areas remote However, for more The standard following: Permit Validity Validity Permit corner of West West corner of (between Rangpo and valid. your permit remains Melli), permit. However, if you’re on Sikkim-to- permit. However, if you’re cutting throughSikkim public transport a Once you leave Sikkim you must wait three you must wait three Sikkim Once you leave for another reapply you can before months

before expiry you can extend the permit for the permit can extend expiry you before up to This is possible days (free). a further 15 al- so 60 days is the maximum times, three to: go For the extension lowed in Sikkim. Extensions Extensions days. Two days valid 15 Standard are permits lonelyplanet.com

SIKKIM 572 Ranga (14km);LingdumGompa(16km) To LowerBypassRoad(1.2km); (200m) Hotel Downtown Gompa (100m); To Tamang Shangrila Hotel GANGTOK

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19 P S 49 41 INFORMATION ahaBoso...... B2 Rachna Bookshop...... Police Station...... New Light...... (see 32) Metroprints...... Main PostOffice...... Foreigners' RegistrationOffice..... ComShop...... anoBosles...... B4 Jainco Booksellers...... Deepak DryCleaners...... Big Byte...... T R 50 ibe d t 43 20 R

d 48 Gate 29 18 Bha 3 nu P 31A Palace

Royal a th 26 23 28 25 Point Zero

Gate

Memorial Hall Nehru Marg Nehru Nyangal College Ridge Tashi 15

Park Jawaharlal Th White e Rid ge Raj Bhawan 400m 0.2miles 0 0 Telecommunications 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Tower B4 B3 B3 B5 B4 B4 B4 Tenzing Lodge...... New ModernCentralLodge...... Modern CentralLodge...... Mintokling GuestHouse...... Kanchen Residency...... Hotel SonamDelek...... Hotel Nor-Khill...... Hotel Mig-Tin...... Tsula Khang(RoyalChapel)...... Sikkim Tourism...... Potala Tours &Treks...... Modern Treks &Tours...... (see 27) Flower ExhibitionCentre...... Enchey Gompa...... STNM Hospital...... State BankofIndia...... Station...... Taxi Stand...... Private Bus&Taxi Station...... Namnang JeepStand...... Station...... Lal BazzarTaxi Stand...... HandloomsEmporium...... Denzong Cinema...... Lounge 31a...... Tourist Amenity...... B4 Tangerine...... (see 19) Roll House...... Rasoi (BlueSheep)Restaurant..(see10) Quickbite...... Parivar Restaurant...... Oberoi's...... Hotel GoldenPagoda...... Bakers Cafe...... Upper Damovar Ropeway B2 SNT BusStation...... Railway BookingCounter...... (see 48) Middle DamovarRopeway Directorate ofHandicrafts& B5 Golden Tips...... Thalee...... (see 36) B5 Oriental...... C4 Netuk House...... B5 Hotel Soyang...... B4 Hotel Lhakpa...... Chumbi Residency...... B4 Blue SkyTreks &Travels...... Altitude Tours &Travels...... (see 10) B4 Centre...... Sikkim Tourist Information TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Travel Lodge...... 39 14 Gate (around 20minutes) Himalayan ZoologicalPark Entrance (2km);Hanuman (35km); NathuLa(53km) To GaneshTok Tok (6km);Tsomgo Lake lonelyplanet.com To GaneshTok and 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 B6 B3 A4 B6 B6 A5 B1 A5 B1 D1 B5 B4 B5 B4 B4 B4 B2 B4 B4 C4 C3 C3 B3 B4 B4 B5 A4 B3 C3 D2 B3 B4 SIKKIM

, , 6am- 573 , and Flower h (

thangkas 281642; www are out of out of are 9.30am-5.30pm) 8.30am-5.30pm) % ( Himalayan Zoologi- h h 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, monastery Orchid Sanctuary (December/January) (December/January) h . An initially obvious . An initially obvious Raj Bhawan, institute . Festooned in colourful . Festooned is a large white Tibetan Tibetan white is a large (Nehru Marg) opposite is opposite (Nehru Marg) was established to in 1958 (sacred bowl made from a bowl made from (sacred (per person Rs 50; (admission Rs 5; and

. Red pandas, Himalayan bears . Red pandas, Himalayan bears Detor Chaam 223191; admission Rs 10, vehicles Rs 25, video Rs kapali , dating back to 1909, is Gangtok’s % (

8am-4pm) Royal Palace Do-Drul Chorten h The institute sits in an The institute From the gompa, follow the access road Ganesh Tok viewpoint city superb Tok offers prayer flags, Ganesh views and its minicafé serves Across hot teas. the road, a lane leads into the cal Park 500; Exhibition Centre full of a modestly sized tropical greenhouse bonsai 1932 and exotic plants. The once-grand White Memorial Hall hall. sports childrens’ now a dilapidated & VIEWPOINTS ENCHEY GOMPA rustling conifers through gently Approached Gangtok, this high above with some decent murals and most attractive, for . It comes alive Tantric statues of the colourful dances. masked an unmissable northeast around the base of telecommunications tower to path scrambles up in around 15 minutes pagoda surrounded by dormitories for young pagoda surrounded by dormitories monks. close to the lower stationis conveniently of Damovar Ropeway from just below the a new cable car running stu- Views are Ling offices on the ridge. Tashi taxi pay Rs 10 by share pendous. Alternatively 31ANHWay. from central Gangtok along THE RIDGE pleasant to With views east and west, it’s very stroll through shady parks and gardens on the Sadly its focal points, city’s central ridgetop. the bloom When the orchids bounds for visitors. peeping it’s worth inside the (March) Sights Sights OF TIBETOLOGY INSTITUTE NAMGYAL archi- traditionally styled Tibetan Housed in this unique tecture, month) closed 2nd Sat of the It contains of one culture. and Tibetan books Buddhist of collections world’s largest statuettes, and manuscripts, plus objects, cloth paintings) and sacred (Tibetan as a such along the samehuman skull). Further road, the .tibetology.net; admission Rs 5; .tibetology.net; promote research into Mahayana Buddhism into Mahayana research promote 4pm Mon-Sat)

7am- 10am- h h 221634; www.sik 9am-7pm) Decent 9am-8pm) 10am-2pm & %

Gangtok, a in 8.30am-8pm) Slow ( (Kazi Rd; h h h h 10am-4pm, to 7pm high season) 227073; Tibet Rd; 227073; Tibet 204336; www.rachnabooks h % ( (MG Marg; 222944; 31ANHWay) % 222033; 31ANHWay) ( (31ANHWay) Small but very central. (31ANHWay) Small EAST SIKKIM •• Gangtok (PS Rd) Has a poste-restante service. % % ( ( (31ANHWay) A little photocopy stall selling (31ANHWay) A (Tibet hr Rs 30; Rd; per (Tibet per hr Rs 30; Rd; (Tibet hr Rs 25; Rd; per (Rs 50).

but cheap. 3-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Changes cash and major travellers cheques. 8pm Fri-Tue) Next-day service. laundry 8pm Fri-Tue) to commission-paying travel agents. to commission-paying travel quirements. Other queries will likely be passed likely Other queries will quirements. Sikkim Tourist Information Centre kimtourism.com; MG Marg; has some useful booklets, sells free helicopter and can advise permit re- on the latest tours and guidebooks on Sikkim, but few offer useful, offer and guidebooks on Sikkim, but few fiction. pure approach critical appraisals. Maps TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION with listings pamphlets Bookshops overflow Main post office POST POST PERMIT EXTENSION PERMIT EXTENSION Foreigners’ Registration Office 4pm, 10am-noon on ‘holidays’) In the alley beside Indian Overseas under an hour. Bank. Takes Bank and HDFC, both on MG Marg. State Bank of India is virtually impossible elsewhere in Sikkim. is virtually impossible elsewhere cards include UTI accepting foreign ATMs MONEY MONEY Stock up with rupees in Gangtok: exchange LAUNDRY LAUNDRY Deepak Dry Cleaners ComShop New Light Big Byte INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS Police station STNM hospital EMERGENCY EMERGENCY Rachna Bookshop the excellent artist’s-view map-guide, Jainco Booksellers Metroprints Information Information BOOKSHOPS Nutshell .com; DevelopmentGangtok’s Area) best-stocked and jazz café A mini film-club and most convivial bookshop. Gentle planned upstairs. live guitar music sometimes are you while you browse. serenades lonelyplanet.com if variable connection Good at the back of a general store. Skype-phone option. SIKKIM recently tested agencies include: recommendations. Otherwell-knownifless is tocheck withfellow travellers forthelatest are over 120agencies available, thebestidea Modern CentralLodge,MGMarg) .com; PSRd) Potala Tours & Treks Potala Tours &Treks &Travels Blue SkyTreks &Tours Treks Bldg,MGMarg) Tourism .trekkinginsikkim.com; Altitude Tours&Travels travel agency. We’ve very been happywith or tours a toNorthernSikkimyou’llneed treks,For high-altitude visitstoTsomgo Lake TOUR AGENCIES passengers. prices are pervehicle holdingthree orfour 650) orRumtek plusLingdum(Rs900).All oneitherold-and-newRumtektacking (Rs tours’Institute (Rs400),or‘seven-point tour’ addingEnchey GompaandNamgyal driver offers variants,includinga‘five-point 350). Almostanytravel agent, hotel ortaxi Tok, Hanuman TokandTashi viewpoints(Rs Classic ‘three-point tours’ show youGanesh Tours (four forKhangchendzonga ridge): ahead. Pricesare foruptofive passengers helicopter Bookatleastthree flights. days ( views, For eagle-eyemountain SCENIC FLIGHTS Activities to Phodong. northwest edge of townbesidethemainroute chendzonga isfromthe walkers. thereGanesh Tok,though are shortcutsfor sits onahilltoparound4kmdrive beyond them. value acartoshuttle between wooded enclosures solarge thatyou’llreally and snowleopardsroamaroundinextensive 574

[email protected]; Tourism Bldg, MG Marg) Bldg, MGMarg) Tourism [email protected]; „ „ „ „ % Yumthang Valley (Rs55,250,70minutes) Khangchendzonga ridge (Rs63,750,1½ circuit of WestSikkim(Rs46,750,one brief (approximately 20minutes) buzz hours) hour) over Gangtok(Rs6900) Perhaps Gangtok’sbestviewof Khang- Hanuman Tok 281372; [email protected]) ATSKI • Gntk SIKKIM••Gangtok EAST

( % , anotherimpressive viewpoint, 224670; www.modernhospitality.com; ( % ( 200043; www.sikkim % . However, asthere. However, Tashi viewpoint ( 205113; % arranges scenic 9832370501; www Sikkim Tourism Tourism Sikkim and Modern atthe d Rs300-600) tours.com; ChurchRd) handy butnoisynewlocation.Allroomshave Lodge tothis have taken theirreliable services agers of whatisnowtheNewModernCentral hospitality.com; 31ANHWay;dfromRs200) the backpacker standby. café,itwillprobably remainful meeting-point ment. Withplentyof cheap roomsandause- the complacentalbeitfriendlynewmanage- here despite somewhatill-kept roomsand favourite forsolongthatpeoplestillcome bathroomRs300) with private [email protected]; Tibet Rd;dmRs50-70,d150-250, approximately inhabitable. only area where aRs150roomislikely tobe generally flockaroundcentralTibet Rd,the hotel. withinthesame Foreignerswidely even Check roomscarefully canvary asstandards just waitingforyoutobargain themtoRs200. around Rs500.Someare worthit.Others are Many cheaper hotels quote walk-in rates of BUDGET low andyou’re goodatbargaining. much more30% lowseason, ifdemandisvery Accommodation rates typicallydrop15%to Sleeping Tours&Travels Sikkim Development Area,Development Tenzing iscomparatively airless. Avoid the cheapest roomsthatare dampand assumingyoubargainout of alittle. season, rooms are wornbutexcellent value slightly rals andagreat café, thebest littlemeet-up Above alobby withnaïve Tibetan-style mu- andbargaining. season fromdamp.Pricedependsheavilysuffer on cheapies have thinwallsandupstairs afew soap provided, theground-floor though andwell-heated showers withtowelsand TV Unusually good-value World roomshave BBC antly localTibetan café. functioning geysers lurkabove anunrepent- Very gloomy,cheap box roomswithrarely cooked foodontheroof garden. Greatluxurious, thepriceisright. home- aren’tprivate standards bathroom. Although Modern Central Lodge Modern Central Lodge New ModernCentral Tenzing Lodge Mig-Tin Hotel Lodge Travel Lhakpa Hotel Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Ofover 40similar hotels in

( ( ( % %

% ( % 203858; Tibet Rd;dRs250-600) 201175; Tibet Rd;dfromRs200) 204101; Tibet Rd;dRs250-600) ( % 204036; Development Area;204036; Development It’s been thetraveller It’sbeen

( % 202188; www.sikkim (

% 204670; info@modern 201361; newmodern Formerman-

SIKKIM

and 575 (snacks 8.30am- Brand h (MG Marg; buffet (MG Marg; buffet The licensed

paneer makahani (dishes Rs 25-50) This wonderfully This wonderfully

Tourist Amenity 226618; www.chumbiresidency 205637; norkhill@elginhotels (MG Marg; curries Rs 35-100 plus

noon-3.30pm & 6-11pm) (Ground fl, Chumbi Residency, Tibet (Ground fl, Chumbi Residency, Tibet %

( % , next to each near the Gan- , next to each ( Oozing 1930s elegance, this Oozing (with ginger and garlic) or (with ginger h Descend five floors of stairs stairs of floors Descend five (MG Marg; mains Rs 30-100; 10am-3pm & 7-9.30pm) (dumplings) for a giveaway Rs 12, (dumplings) for a giveaway Tangerine Tangerine Parivar Restaurant h (stew with nettle shoots). Stylishly with nettle shoots). Stylishly (stew (mains Rs 25-50) The perfect breakfast escape, this cosy breakfast The perfect

is a cheap, basic teahouse serving basic teahouse is a cheap, great pork gyaree momos Bakers Cafe Rasoi (Blue Sheep) Restaurant Hotel Golden Pagoda o Chumbi Residency Hotel Nor-Khill sitting terraces. There’s a delightful commu- There’s terraces. sitting nal sitting lounge. ginger sauce) or sampleginger Sikkimese specialities, like sochhya décor. relaxed adult/child Rs 90/50; new and thus super clean, the buffet offers veg including complimentary . rice Rs 350; this midrange on the top floor of restaurant serveshotel food at tasty Indian vegetarian prices. reasonable Rd; mains Rs 50-100) Try the cushioned bar area. garlic-tomato- (Indian cheese in a creamy, furniture and imperial-sized mirrors. The spa- mirrors. and imperial-sized furniture rooms attract ciously luxurious old-building and Dalai Lamas.film stars Eating & CAFES RESTAURANTS café-res- cheap have hotels Most budget taurants serving standard Chinese/Tibetan break- dishes, basic Indian meals and Western South Indian vegetarian fasts. For good-value food, try Thalee Beside Gompa, Enchey dhi statue (MG Marg). the misleadingly named Rs 8-20) .com; Tibet Rd; s/d from Rs 1550/1950) Rd; s/d from .com; Tibet has comfortable hotel if central, three-star white rooms with fresh somewhat cramped have marble tables. A few walls and green views. Service and the relaxed is professional is firmly recom- bar-restaurant Tangerine ). below mended (see .com; PS Rd; d Rs 5865) jewels’ was originally the sumptuous ‘house of royal guesthouse. Sikkim’s Histori- King of throughout, feature cal photos and artwork antique lobby features and the piano-lounge Western-style café has great Viennese coffee café has great Western-style (Rs 35) and excellent pastries. 8.30pm) for sublime cuisine, tasty Western snacks or for sublime cuisine, tasty Western floor- cocktails at the brilliant Japanese-style

•• Gangtok SOUTH SIKKIM Set on a lawn 224226; www.mintok This longstand- 222566; slg_hsdelek@ % This cosy boutique ( www.sunflower-hotels.com/

Perfectly central yet Perfectly % 9732072614; kanchenresidenc 284219; Tamang Gompa Rd, Gompa Rd, 284219; Tamang (

The outlandish pseudo- The outlandish % 202374; slg_netuk@sancharmet %

Certainly not downtown, ( ( 229219;

% ( % 221180/1; www.orientalsikkim.com;MG

(

% Rs 850-1500) (

Netuk House Oriental Hotel Soyang Hotel Sonam Delek Hotel Downtown Mintokling Guest House Kanchen Residency Tibetan-style façades, local rugs and shared façades, local rugs and shared Tibetan-style ers, the Netuk has 10 rooms in three very very the Netuk has 10 rooms in three ers, colourful styles. The newest have different .in; Tibet Rd; s/d Rs 1450/2200) .in; Tibet unsigned and easy to miss amid endless flow- floor lounge area decorated with aspidistra decorated area floor lounge ornaments. and Tibetan hotel has Sanderson-style fabrics, a hint of fabrics, a hint of has Sanderson-style hotel 1st- beds, and an appealing little canopy over Marg; s/d/ste Rs 1200/1600/1800) easy-to-miss back lane off MG Marg signed easy-to-miss back lane off MG Marg Ben.for the Hotel clean, white-tiled bathrooms. The Soyang is bathrooms. clean, white-tiled winding, along a quiet, four hotels the third of yet atmospheric. Rooms are old fashioned, but yet atmospheric. Rooms are excellent value with very ones are the cheapest soyang.html; d soyang.html; Chinese lobby décor is simultaneously cheesy ‘standard’ rooms are a very noticeable step noticeable step a very ‘standard’ rooms are down – in the basement. heads and decent views. Bigger ‘super deluxe’ ‘super deluxe’ heads and decent views. Bigger but the cheapest views, better rooms have 880) have real mattresses, Tibetan motif bed- Tibetan mattresses, real 880) have sancharnet.in; Tibet Rd; d Rs 600-1000) sancharnet.in; Tibet Upper Sichey; d Rs 550/650) is neat, but this new, out-of-centre minihotel value. clean and great fabrics, timber ceilings and some local design fabrics, timber ceilings and friendly. Very features. within in a secluded this expanded garden, oasis with Bhutanese family home is a real ling.com; Bhanu Path; s/d from Rs 450/650) Bhanu Path; ling.com; light and well run. Front rooms have great great light and well run. Front rooms have views. Above the dismal (unrelated) Hotel Prince, Hotel (unrelated) the dismal Above is spacious, this sparklingly airy discovery [email protected]; Tibet Rd; d back/side/front Rs 450/600/700) Rd; d back/side/front Tibet [email protected]; All places listed here have cable TV cable have and pri- here All places listed Most add with hot showers. bathroom vate 10% tax. MIDRANGE & TOP END & TOP END MIDRANGE vate bathrooms lack toilet seats. bathrooms vate Eerily empty low season. inexpensive, with clean, simple rooms off mis- off rooms clean, simple with inexpensive, stairways. plush marble leadingly pri- Some Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book ing favourite has good service,ing favourite food, reliable rooms (Rs 700 to ‘deluxe’ and the best-value SIKKIM stage even the Kolkata originals. theKolkata stage even serves delicious serves alley justoff MGMarg thishole-in-the-wall in . rium &HandloomEmpo- ofHandicrafts Directorate Shopping h 15) Denzong Cinema Entertainment to buyandtaste. oftea showroomwithawideselection blends Rd;teasfromRs25; Kazi foodisoverpriced.pseudo-Thai dows thatare great butthe foracosybeer, stylish littlerestaurant-bar hasbigviewwin- of moderniststyle.and ahipsense architecture views sunset offers light-suffused waterpipes Rs99; Lounge 31a Drinking and pizzas. Momos dian sweets. Takeaway topizzasIn- snacksfromdosas Roll House QUICK EATS Noalcohol. rice anddessert. four excellentvegetarian choices plusbreads, 576 Screens thelatest Bollywoodblockbusters X’cape Golden Tips Square Oberoi’s Quickbite

the drinkgettingtoo strong. a bamboostraw.It tastes Japanesesake. alittlelike Regularsippingand toppingupprevents of fermented milletseedsontowhichyou pourboilingwater. Sucktheresultant liquidthrough where they fell. it’s notuncommontoseeunconscious figures sprawledfacedownonthestreets, leftsnoring a blindtasting. Localstend toslurp‘pegs’(60mlmeasures) ataprodigious speed.As aresult quality ispretty rum,whiskyandbrandyisn’talwayseasyon good,telling betweenSikkimese andDansbergbeer (Hit are localbrews) andthestate isfamousforitsliquors. Butalthough Here everyhalf-dark barsasthoughembarrassed to beseen.NotsoinSikkim. secondcaféserves boozers alcoholseemsaslightly shamefulactivity, In muchofIndia,drinking often huddlein SIKKIM SIPS from 7pmSat)

ATSKI • Gntk SIKKIM••Gangtok EAST Note that onfull-moonand new-moon days,selling alcohol isprohibited sobarsstayclosed. villages,don’tmissachance totrytongba. You’llreceiveIn Sikkimese agirded woodentub ( % , chowmein, Indiansnacks sandwiches, ( (PS Rd;mealsfromRs135,beers60) 222926; Zero Point; (MG Marg; rollsRs10-25; (MG Marg; %

(MG Marg; snacksRs25-60; (MG Marg;

(Zero Point;beersRs59,snacks40-130, (MG Marg; snacksRs20-40; (MG Marg; 228636; Vajra CinemaHall;entryRs400; (www.goldentipstea.com/Showrooms.asp; h Gangtok’s leadingnightclub.

( kati % 11.30am-9pm) h 202692; Lal Bazar; tickets fromRs 202692; LalBazar;tickets rolls (see rolls(see p509 ) thatup- 12.30-9.30pm) h Swoopingglass h 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, h 8am-8pm) Aninviting 7.30am-8.30pm) h 8am-8pm) Inan This

2531959; www.mountainflightindia.com) Gangtok to Bagdogra (Rs2000,30minutes)Gangtok toBagdogra cancelled ifbookingsare In insufficient. alsobeis weatherdependentandmight service turning around1.30pm.However, departingat10amdaily,re-supposedly Delhi andGuwahati. near Siliguri( p526 toKolkata,), withflights The nearest airporttoSikkimisBagdogra AIR the Gangtok–Siliguritripafulldayahead. If flyingoutof playsafe bymaking Bagdogra, journeys cantake vastlylonger thanexpected. androute changesLandslides mean road Getting There&Away comes inabowlingball–stylered sphere. means screwing offthemonk’shead!Fireball shaped bottleof OldMonkRum(Rs210) souvenir containers. Openinga1Lmonk- Nepali-style knives. woodentongbapots,prayerflagsand selling stalls hasseveral Bazaar crafts. BustlingLal pricierTibetan handi- Rd sell andSikkimese fromRs1500). low woodentables, paper andornately carved handwoven carpets(fromRs2110),handmade excellent-value gifts,includingpurses (Rs25), daily Jul-Mar) cost Rs1450direct You Gangtok–Bagdogra. away) forpublictransport,fixed-price taxis don’t wanttobothergoingintoSiliguri(12km copter safety inIndia. tickets. See p1170 forinformationonheli- Gangtok, Several souvenir shops onMGMargSeveral andPS Bagdogra is 124km from Gangtok. If you is124kmfromGangtok.Ifyou Bagdogra A few liquors comeinnovelty Sikkimese This emporium sells arange Thisemporiumsells of Sikkim Tourism Tourism Sikkim TSA Helicopters TSA ( % choktse lonelyplanet.com 221634) shuttlefrom (Sikkimese (Sikkimese

sells thesells (

% 0353- SIKKIM . It’s 577 (admission 252329; www 17th Karmapa . This young % ( Golden complex monastery building is a whole village within a within is a whole village was constructed between was constructed 1961 6am-5pm) h 03592 / elev 1690m Rear stairs lead up to the Rear stairs Within, the main ties have prevented him officially taking up prevented ties have upsetting seat Chinesehis Rumtek of for fear sensibilities. government just a smallish concrete a stupa at all, not really the 16th Kar- room, but it holds the ashes of to which mapa in a jewel-studded reliquary Rumtek Gompa Complex Gompa Complex Rumtek rambling, walled This .rumtek.org; admission free) buildings, schools containing religious village for- To enter, and several small lodge-hotels. both passport and Sikkim must show eigners permit. Rs 5; Monastery the Tsurphu and 1966 to replace had been which destroyed during in Tibet, China’s Cultural Revolution. The giant throne current Kagyu’s within awaits the crowning of spiritual leader, the (disputed) (Ogyen Trinley Dorje; www.kagyuoffice.org) in 2000 but currently fled from Tibet based at Dharamsala:remains Indian authori- rice-slopes. Rumtek % Gangtok distantly across a vast green Facing dominated is entirely village valley, Rumtek gompa complex. Spiritu- extensive by its very significant as the is hugely ally the monastery (Black Buddhism’s Kagyu home of surrogate p578). However, text, sect (see the boxed Hat) visually it is not Sikkim’s most spectacular annoyingly crowded in and by day it can get the high season. at its To experience Rumtek stay around most serene, the night and hike the delightful hilltops at dawn. nearby SIGHTS Getting Around Around Getting taxis along 31AN- hop) run (Rs 10 per Share Stops’. ‘Taxi at designated HWay stopping service taxis on Fixed-rate loiter (chartered) MG Marg. AROUND GANGTOK most eas- Gompa are and Lingdum Rumtek ). p574 ‘seven-point on a ily visited tour’ (see perhaps half an takes Viewing the temples county winding but the infinitely hour each, the at- a big part of lane that links them is traction, curving high through forests mossy and artistically terraced valleys river above 8am- north h , share , share 222016; . % ( (31ANHWay)

(PS Rd)

, about 3km north of the , about 3km north of at the SNT Bus Stand. . That’s roughly for hourly EAST SIKKIM •• Around Gangtok bus station

SNT (31ANHWay) railway booking counter Namchi 55 3 7am, 2pm 55 Jorethang 4 Kalimpong 60 4 7am, Namchi 55 3 5½ 7am 85 Pelling 7.15am 7am Ravangla 44 3 5 Siliguri 75-100 (via Rangpo) hourly, 7am 6am-1.30pm (Rs) (hr) Destination Cost Duration Departures (Rs) BUSES FROM GANGTOK BUSES FROM GANGTOK (SNT BUS STATION) West Sikkim sumos depart when full from West Sikkim sumos depart Sumos to North Sikkim use the away at New Jalpaiguri (NJP). There’s a compu- There’s (NJP). away at New Jalpaiguri terised TRAIN TRAIN 120km train station is over major The nearest jeep stand thereby allowing photo stops en route. allowing photo stops thereby the high season. With a small group, con- for 10 times the one-way fare, sider chartering hours) depart around 7am and again around hours) 12.30pm, but services multiply in to Pelling service for Yuksom, is around 3pm. Jeeps (Rs 130 to 150, five and Pelling Tashiding Geyzing (Rs 120, 4½ hours), RavanglaGeyzing (Rs 120, 4½ hours), (Rs 70, and hours) (Rs 92, three Namchi hours), three Last hours). (Rs 98 to 112, three Jorethang Phuentsholing (Bhutan border, Rs 200, six Phuentsholing tickets. 8am). Prepurchase hours, Namnang jeep stand hours). There are one-off jeeps to Kakarbhitta jeeps one-off to Kakarbhitta are There hours). on the Nepali border and (Rs 160, 4½ hours) to Darjeeling (Rs 125/90, five hours), Ka- to Darjeeling hours), (Rs 125/90, five and Siliguri hours) limpong (Rs 87/60, three some continuing to (Rs 130/80, four hours), train station (Rs 135/100, 4½ New Jalpaiguri private bus and taxi station jeeps/minibuses depart until mid afternoon SHARE JEEPS & MINIBUSES JEEPS & MINIBUSES SHARE well-organised but relatively From the hectic See the table, below , for buses from the gov- below See the table, ernmental BUS BUS might get slightly better prices from jeeps prices slightlymight in the better get number plates. (SK) look for Sikkim carpark: lonelyplanet.com centre. centre. 1pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun)

SIKKIM Mountain Resort Mountain Resort towards Gangtok, thefriendly cell roomsabove arusticrestaurant. offering house tiny half-timbered Sikkimese shared bathroomperpersonRs100/150) cess roadbends, price. Furtherupwhere themonastery ac- have great balconyviews,hencethehigher and private bathroomswithgeyser. Doubles roomshavetan varnishedwood-veneer walls d/tr Rs400/200) Sungay Guesthouse Options withinthegompacomplexinclude SLEEPING &EATING dance. Rumtek holdsthecelebrated before some wonderfulwest-facing views.Twodays of colourandthelonelylocationisidyllicwith theinteriornew. However, isariotousfestival renovatedthoroughly thatitlooksvirtually the attractive so mainprayerhallhasbeen Gompa Rumtek leads attractively downtopowder-blue Sang, alongavenue of white prayerflags About 1.5kmbeyondthegompatowards Old Rumtek Gompa performances. also catch traditional Losar inMay/June,meditation) andtwodaysbefore dances duringtheannual open itforyou. ofBuddhistStudies Institute someone fromthecolourful respects.pilgrims paytheirdeepest Iflocked, 578 Rumtek holdsimpressive masked Outside thegompa wallsand300mback dare tounlockthebox andcheck. isfinallycrowned,willanyoneKarmapa died.Onlywhenthe17th the 16thKarmapa done. Nobodyhasseenitsince1993when heaven. Butmaybethat’sjustwhatithas in abox toprevent itfromflying backto lockedhair ofangels,thehatmustbekept ceremonies.ing key Beingwoven fromthe (spiritualleader)dur- crown theKarmapa the pricelessruby-toppedheadgearusedto The BlackHat issonamedbecauseofsect FLYING BLACK HATS ATSKI • TwrsTbt SIKKIM••TowardsTibetEAST

(Tibetan NewYear) whenyoumight

Losoong (Sikkimese NewYear),Losoong (Sikkimese Old whose comfortable ifratherSpar- comfortable whose (admission free) ( % ( Sangay Hotel

% 252240; [email protected]; 252240; [email protected]; 252221; [email protected]; lhamo opposite canusually . Despite the name, Drupchen ( (Tibetan opera)

Karma Shri Naland Shri Karma % isatypically Kagyed Chaam Kagyed 252238; s/dwith Shambhala (group chaam Old

(about Rs80)potter alongtheshore. Ifyou out by1pm.Linkingthetwosites requires (Rs 22,onehour),butreturn transportfizzles Bazaar runtoeitherfromGangtok’sLal jeeps lanes fromGangtok.Relatively sporadicshare village, reached back- from Ranka byrough winding road.LingdumGompaisa2kmwalk Rumtek is26kmfromGangtokbyavery Getting There&Away general tourists. a cafébutitspilgrims’roomsnolonger accept atmosphere. Theisolated gompacomplexhas aura. Frenetic chanting addstothemagical Buddha wreathed inanexpansive gilded prayer hallenshrines alarge Sakyamuni complished. Theextensively muralledmain the exterior paintingsare notespeciallyac- layers withphotogenic sidetowers, though Its structure growsoutof theforest ingrand Gompa Only completed in1998,peacefulLingdum Lingdum Gompa road. springing upalongtheRanipul–Rumtek no extracharge. Rooms201to204havestained. balconiesat andthebathtubsaresome scuffing somewhat roomshaveing lobby, buttheonce-pleasant d Rs2500) foreigners) are permitted tocontinue 18km Four Indian citizens(butnot days aweek, Nathu La views. clambering upanearbyhilltopfor inspiring themainattractionis can muster thepuff, chow meinand usually can’tget thepermit. for groupsof two/three. Individualtravellers typicallycostRs700/450perpersontaxis) photos required). Tours (ieguidedshared get thepermitfornext-daydeparture (two a ‘tour’by2pmandmostGangtokagents can permits are Toget necessary. onesignupfor tourstopforIndianvisitors,established but Pronounced Changu,thissceniclake isan elev 3780m Tsomgo (Changu,Tsangu)Lake TOWARDS TIBET private transportoratour. Several new,quietlyupmarket resortsSeveral are At the lakeside, food stalls sell hotchai,At thelakeside, sell foodstalls hasattractive gardensandanappeal-

is more visuallyexcitingthanRumtek. Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com momos, whileshort yak rides

SIKKIM

Dec- 579 under under 263272; Solophok on Solophok 263144), Hotel Zimkhang % % ( . Or more inter- . Or more . Ngadak’s ruined . Ngadak’s ruined (

264708; Jorethang Rd; d Rs 400- 264708; Jorethang statue % For now, this family home- ( (admission Rs 10) (admission Ngadak Gompa

then continues up past Dungmali , , climb two floors to find internet internet to find , climb two floors , dating back to 1717, is delightfully, dating back Dungmali Guest House Padma ShovaPadma Lodge 263625) The Samdruptse has its share of scuffed of The Samdruptseshare has its Hotel Samdruptse taxi stand, be- the main square’s Above rock garden % reconstruction, and the neat reconstruction, ( Getting There & Around gather in the central stand. Around Taxis off the Rangpo200m east in descending layers and sitting room. But in the next two years, and sitting room. But in the next two years, plans to owner Bimuka Dungmali inspired and add traditional Sikkimese hut-bungalows with spa, ecoresort upmarket a more create grows already and yoga-meditation hall. She bird-watching offers veg, her own organic jungle and can private of walks in 2.4 hectares you to meettake a traditional healer. 800) road facing the Solophok-bound the centre of junction. tween is proceeding at a prodigious rate to raiseis proceeding at a prodigious rate a new 33m (108ft) in mid 2008, the hilltop. Due for completion pilgrim- to become a major is expected site temples point. A surrounding complex of age partly built. is already and visitor pavilions The central Namchi. Solophok is 6km from access road passes the hospital and stadium, the interesting winds around the base of chen Gompa Guesthouse. Sleeping & Eating o Rd, 4th km; d Rs 200-350) a rooms, the best having just three stay offers view window bathroom and a fabulous private short-cutting via steps down to and through down to steps via short-cutting a the Samdruptse the noseestingly follow of hill down to old dzong the unsightly despite steel buttressing ‘real’ from falling down. Its unpainted that stops it ancient carvedincorporates stone exterior but very intriguing and upstairs door pillars on the painting remain fragments of decrepit peeling old cloth wallpaper. SOLOPHOK enough, work statue if one gigantic weren’t As paint and damp patches but the best rooms paint and damp patches balconies with superb views. It’s great have 300m west finest restaurant, Namchi’s above access at the Bon Pizzeria. , Phari Padmasamb- •• Namchi SOUTH SIKKIM (Listening Ears Pass). Ears (Listening Pass). was the pass used was the pass by Jelep La Nathu La Nathu where the Sikkimese kings once where , stops just short of kitsch. Com- kitsch. of stops just short (Indian adult/child Rs 10/5, foreigner Rs 50/10; (Indian adult/child Rs 10/5, foreigner

03595 / elev 1524m 7am-5pm)

Taxis want around Rs 250 return. Alter- want around Rs 250 return. Taxis A few kilometres southeast of Nathu La, Nathu of southeast kilometres A few natively you could walk back to Namchi, you could walk back to Namchi, natively the Dalai Lama, it’s visible from miles around, of a golden cone amid the forests shining like Samdruptse is 7km from Nam- hill. The site the Damthang road. 2km off chi, h in 2004 on a foundation stone laid by pleted tones, the impressively vast 45m vast tones, the impressively SAMDRUPTSE SAMDRUPTSE in shimmering copper and bronze Painted hava statue Sights Sights Samdruptse is already finished, the Hindu one finished, Samdruptse is already at Solophok is still under construction. prosperous market town. The Buddhist one at prosperous market NAMCHI NAMCHI % vast statuesSoon, two utterly will be facing hillsides across this quietly off from opposite p580) where it fits more logically. logically. it fits more p580) where administratively within South Sikkim, but we administratively section (see to Pelling it in the Gangtok cover to Pelling leaving much of the region com- the region of much leaving to Pelling ) falls p581 Ravangla untouristed. ( paratively of other great viewpoints, too, but visitors visitors viewpoints, too, but great other of hurry straight throughgenerally en route The main sights in South Sikkim are Nam- The main sights in South Sikkim are has plenty gigantic statues.chi’s The region SOUTH SIKKIM SOUTH SIKKIM Jelep La betweenwas the main trade route Jelep and ,Kalimpong no signs but it shows reopening. whatsoever of Francis Younghusband in the British Great Francis Younghusband in the British Great 1962 (1904). Until Game era attackTibet on better-known better-known betan plateau via the old fortress town of town of fortress betan via the old plateau highest the world’s settlements.one of had their summer palace. From there, the road From there, had their summer palace. towards Lhasa onto the Ti- (525km) winds up But keep asking. Maybe one day it will be pos- one day it will be asking. Maybe But keep fabled (52km) in Tibet’s Yatung reach sible to Chumbi Valley only to travel 8km to the first Tibetan market. market. Tibetan 8km to the first only to travel Here the border post to southeastern Tibet Tibet southeastern the border post to Here yet in 2006. As fanfare much ‘opened’ with and eligible to cross, are only local villagers along the spectacular road from Tsomgo Lake the spectacularalong from Tsomgo road 4130m to the Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book SIKKIM (Legship Rd) tails oftails SNTservices. 350) option remains togenic roadsideShiva niches of 400m northof which are thepassingly pho- striking feature isthe Rinchenpong ing butlesser-known villages Sikkimese like make alaunching pointforvisitstointerest- could kim, Namchi andDarjeeling/Siliguri This WestSik- transporthubbetween useful % JORETHANG change inJorethang. leavessingle jeep around12.30pm:otherwise hours). (Rs90,three ForGeyzing hours), a 3½ hours) andSiliguri(Rs100viaMelli, four plus, tilllunchtime only,toGangtok(Rs92, (Rs30,onehour) 25, onehour)andRavangla the road are and themainmarket, stand thejeep 580 springs andholycave). The brightest, friendliestaccommodation The brightest, Share leave jeeps whenfulltoJorethang (Rs At itswesternmost edge, Jorethang’s most BUSES FROMJORETHANG BUSES FROMNAMCHI 03595 /elev518m , onthemaindrag70meastof thebridge iiui 5 3 9.30am noon 3pm 3½ 56 2½ 7.30am 8.30am,4pm 3 Siliguri 30 1 (via Namchi) 45 4 Ravangla 13 (via Geyzing) 55 Pelling Namchi Gangtok (Rs) Departure Duration Destination Cost (hr) 11.30am, 1½hr 9am, 2pm 17 Ravangla 70min 13 3hr Jorethang 55 Damthang 2pm, 4.30pm via Gangtok 11.30am, (Rs) Departures Duration Destination Cost 4.30pm SNT busstand ETSKI • Gntkt eln toPellingWEST SIKKIM••Gangtok . (countrygetaways) or

( Hotel Namgyal Hotel % 263847) Akar SuspensionBridge Akar . See . See above forde-

( % Sisne Mandir 276852; dRs Reishi Reishi (hot

, ing atKhangchendzonga, white-peaked mag- Sikkim’s greatest touristdrawissimplystar- WEST SIKKIM stand. until about 3pmfromopposite theSNTbus four hours). Buytickets before boarding. toKakarbhittaalso morningjeeps (Rs133, and Yuksom(Rs96,three hours). There are around noonforTashiding (Rs47,1½hours) Rs 112viaNamchi. Acoupleof sumosleave hours). costRs98viaMelli, ForGangtokjeeps (Rs 52,twohours), andSiliguri(Rs94,three larly toNamchi (Rs25,onehour),Geyzing listed on left . Useful are fromtheSNTbusstation services Getting There&Away short blocknorthof themainroad. hidingone stand found thebustlingmainjeep Rs 10) cheap eateries, including tofindthemainmarket turn right andseveral other hotels. Onelongish blockfurthereast, andseveral a particularlyhelpfultouristoffice there’s stand jeep road besidetheDarjeeling just before Acrossthe theSNTbusstation. have lunch atthelonely 3kmwest of Ravangla still, ifyouhaveBetter a chartered vehicle, the precipitous of base Maenam Hill. drive around an extremely dramaticcliff-edge only),which along jeep approaches Ravangla the longer,route viaYangang little-used (hired Both of are attractive, these highly especially andRavangla. two possibleroutes viaSingtam by publicsumoswhenlandslides block the Fortunately thisisnormallyonlyused Legship. Rongphu, thenbackviaMelli, Jorethang and least interesting loopsalongwaysouthto to Sikkim’smaintouristhub.Thelongest and There are three mainroutes from thecapital GANGTOK TOPELLING Dzongri (grouptrekking permitsrequired). multidaygroup-trekfor serious expeditionsto village of Yuksom.That’salsothetrailhead lovely one-dayhikes fromthecharming start teries, plusperhaps aspotof walking.Some excursions tonearbywaterfalls andmonas- nificence fromPelling. Mostvisitors thenadd Jeeps to Darjeeling (Rs90,twohours)Jeeps leave toDarjeeling sumosleave stand, From themainjeep regu- Ravangla ( Ravangla opposite ) makes agoodtea stop. . Had youturnedleftinstead, you’dhave Sanjay Hotel Sanjay Hotel lonelyplanet.com (snack meals SIKKIM Yung 581 260688) (New (New % (

Maenam Wildlife , established in 1768. is theBon monas- only Mainamla Travels the dancers wear masks rep- the dancers through the rod tucked into the folds of his left rod tucked folds of his left into the Old Ralang Gompa (mini sceptre). (mini sceptre). tirsul Palchen Choeling Monastic Institute Choeling Palchen Maenam Hill dorje About 1.5km downhill on the same road is About A chartered taxi to Ralang costs around Rs A chartered teacher, Lamateacher, Yungdrung Tenzing. HILL MAENAM hiking trail leads to four-hour three- steep A the Ravangla–Ralang road to the top from of the and magnolia blooms of negative energy. Ask to peek inside the room Ask energy. negative stored. the amazing costumes are where peaceful with two hours’ 350 from Ravangla (return wait). BON MONASTERY Beside the main Legship road, 5.5km from central Ravangla, small but fascinating with in Sikkim. The Bon faith, (‘Mahayana tery It’s Buddhism in Tibet. preceded laughs’) more and impact on Buddhist philosophy relevance by the impeccable is brought superbly alive joyful English the monastery’s explanations of Legship32). (Rs runs several morning jeeps to Gangtok (Rs hours). 74, three Around Ravangla RALANG At Ralang 13km below Ravangla, the splendid 1995 Ralang 200 Kagyu- Gompa) is home to about early morning or around . Arrive order monks in mesmerising 3pm to hear them chanting a 9m-high golden statue of unison. There’s the historical Buddha in the main hall, and but- locally the gompa is famous for elaborate impressive very At November’s sculptures. ter Dance Mahakala and chase away Protector the Great resenting Drung Kundrak Lingbon one hour) and Geyzing (Rs 60, two hours) via one hour) and Geyzing(Rs 60, two hours)

, Hotel Bon Monastery , a slightly eccen- 9836089533; s/d/tr Rs 300/ 9733084105; mains Rs 30-75) % ( % (

WEST SIKKIM •• Gangtok to Pelling 82 ), only to climb all the way back), only to climb all the 82 260705; d from Rs 300) % (aspects of enlightenment) . Meanwhile notice Padmasambhava’s right hand surreptitiously right hand surreptitiously notice Padmasambhava’s . Meanwhile (aspects of enlightenment) (

has small but clean new rooms shar- Padmasambhava has seven other alternative manifestations. The most striking The of these, Dorje manifestations. other alternative has seven Padmasambhava 03595 / elev 2009m Bhurpa Vajrakila, shows him with three frightful heads and a lusty wench gyrating on his groin. frightful heads and shows him with three Bhurpa Vajrakila, sleeve. This spears a trio of heads in progressive stages of decomposition representing the three the three of decomposition representing stages a trio of heads in progressive spears This sleeve. kayas a from behind Aloha greeting a two-fingered giving PADMASAMBHAVA PADMASAMBHAVA in , this Sibaji in Nepali/Hindi or Padmasambhava Rinpocheas Guru in Tibetan, Known Padmasam- Buddhism to Tibet. Tantric with introducing Buddha’ is credited 8th-century ‘second Sikkim. common throughout and murals are bhava statues classic form, he’s usually In his most eyes and a cross-legged with wild, staring shown sitting Don’t miss the charming little the charming Don’t miss Hotel Snow-White The town itself is a modern creation of of The town itself creation is a modern Several more hotels, many with views, line many with views, Several hotels, more share jeeps leave when full to Namchi (Rs 30, when full to Namchi jeeps leave share (Rs 44, three hours), and at 9am and 1pm for hours), (Rs 44, three Until around 2pm, (Rs 17, 1½ hours). Namchi GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE 10-Zing. Hotel in front of Transport gathers 9.30am for Gangtok around Buses leave 400/700) complete with Ozzy Ozbourne poster. with Ozzy Ozbourne complete tric place whose (Rs 450) has a new best room bathroom, gingham-wrapped TV and comes eateries and plentiful hotels, including and plentiful hotels, eateries hub to visit Ralang. Around the main road shops, small junction is a concentration of 10-Zing with snow-capped peaks. Pemayangtse and Sangachoeling, all distantly Pemayangtse visible against a horizon that’s sawtoothed perched overlooking a wide sweep of western western a wide sweep of overlooking perched Old Ralang,Sikkim, the gompas of Tashiding, % expanding Ravangla is spectacularly Rapidly starts its descent on seemingly endless hairpins p5 ( to Legship ). p582 up the other side again to Geyzing ( Ravangla (Rabongla) ( right ) before reaching Kewzing where the road where Kewzing reaching ) before right ( Rs 550/850) with shared amenities or more or more amenities Rs 550/850) with shared 1600/3100) (Rs luxurious cottages framed views towards the mountains.framed views towards You in simple bungalows (s/d could also sleep here Mt Narsing Resort with fabulous tree- a rustic bungalow place lonelyplanet.com little aesthetic distinction, but useful as a little aesthetic distinction, but useful as a ing very neat bathrooms. There are good if are neat bathrooms. There ing very views from the rear. partially obscured a kilometre. road for about the Kewzing SIKKIM Mon-Fri) Information Centre Information Centre leave regularly theday.There throughout are Rs 150to200. half-hour. every full, roughly Taxis cost (Rs25,30minutes) leaveand Legship when Useful are listed SNTbusservices below . THERE&AWAYGETTING more chances contemplation. formountain frumpyred-brickslightly buildingoffering est ‘deluxe rooms’.Curiousroof lawnstopthe wide viewsfromalmostallexceptthecheap- d Rs1150-1560,plustax20%) sort considerable potential). Here the avillage2.3km towardsSakyong(itself with antly peacefulaccommodationalternative, go forapleas- kim’s transporthub.However, asWestSik- market, ismostuseful Geyzing Apart from itsvaguelyinteresting Sunday elev 1552m Geyzing (Gyashaling) ing. Nearbythe beside themainPelling Rd,4kmfromGeyz- Police Station Sikkim Permits canbeextended atTikjuk’s Tikjuk Pelling. Tikjuk,mit extensions youneed halfwayto butforper- isWestSikkim’scapital, Geyzing % GEYZING, TIKJUK&LEGSHIP Longer treks continueto ful toavoid getting lostintheforest onreturn. (Sikkim’sstate bird).Aguideisuse- pheasants rare red see just might pandasandmonal Sanctuary 582 Jorethang-bound (Rs52,1½hours) jeeps Share toPelling jeeps (Rs20,20minutes) BUSES FROMGEYZING(GYASHALING) 03595 iiui 9 5r 8am 8am 8am,1pm 5hr 95 2pm Tashiding 30 2hr 4½hR 3hr Siliguri 30 75 Pelling 10 2pm Jorethang 30min Gangtok (Rs) Duration Departure Destination Cost ( % ETSKI • Gyig ijk&Lghp TikjukWEST SIKKIM••Geyzing, &Legship offers internet accessinits 250340; www.tashigangresort.com; sRs900-1300, 250340; www.tashigangresort.com; . Theviewsare wonderfulandyou

( % District Secretariat Secretariat District (per hrRs20) 250844; offers magnificently h Borong . 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) village. ( h Tashigang Re- Community 10am-4pm

merge. Afocalpointof UpperPelling isa effectivelydle andLowerareas, these though Pelling isnominallydividedintoUpper,Mid- Orientation &Information panoramic views. miss strollinguptothe are great fellow formeeting travellers. Don’t prisingly unjaded,andthebestbudget hotels Despite hordesof visitors, localsremain sur- Theview but don’tbeputoff. much atown asa2kmstringof touristhotels, dawn viewof Khangchendzonga. It’snotso Pelling’s raisond’etre isitsjaw-dropping % PELLING rooftop terrace. is simplebuthasplentyof greenery anda ( here. Should youget stranded, cially toorfromTashiding, tryconnecting When noothertransportisavailable, espe- Legship hours) departaround11am. (Rs 60,twohours) andYuksom(Rs70,2½ iding (Rs50,1½hours), Khecheopalri Lake toTash- (Rs60,twohours). Services Ravangla hours) andGangtok(Rs120,five hours) via toSiliguri(Rs125,four morningjeeps several ever, sometimesprices overreflectever, thatfact. storey roomsare usuallythefreshest. How- todoso.can afford Thatmeans thattop many hotels buildnewfloors they whenever private bathroomswithhot water. Note that allplaceslisted stated Unless have otherwise Sleeping treks andpermitsforgroupsof fourormore. agentsand three canarrange waterfalls. Several choice visitsYuksomviaKhecheopalri Lake other agencies offer one-day tours. Apopular ( Hotel Garuda ( opposite ) and Tours (left) Tikjuk is finished, thenearest internet accessisin helipad and branch southtoDentem andsouthwesttothe Garuda. point,minorroads Atthesame turns180degreesGeyzing infrontof Hotel small roundabout where the mainroadfrom % % Until Pelling’s newtelephone exchange

03595 /elev2083m 258549; perperson/jeepRs175/1600) 259887; d with shared/private bathroomfromRs200/300) 259887; dwithshared/private Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com tourist office tourist helipad ( h 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) Simvo Tour&Travels for even more foreven plus several plusseveral Hotel Trishna Hotel is worthit. .

SIKKIM 583 Hid- A big Down Down Choose view 258612; rabdentse % ( 258206; s Rs 350-700, d Rs 475- 258346; d Rs 1000-2500) 258245; www.newaregency.com; 258245; www.newaregency.com; %

( 258347; d Rs 600-1200) %

( 258238; d Rs 400-700) 258238; % ( % ( Pelling’s most stylish choice choice stylish most Pelling’s %

( The best rooms have good Khangchend- The best rooms have Hotel Rabdentse Residency Hotel Sonamchen Newa Regency Hotel The Touristo Hotel Simvo Hotel Haven s/d Rs 1450/1800) modern architecture is a triangular slice of within by some delightful Sikkimese softened 1st-floor notablytouches, in the charming partly often sitting room. Some views are and oblique, but the serviceobscured is impeccable. den away down stairs behind the Touristo, den away down stairs find with unusu- this is an excellent midrange to de- staff attention ally obliging and a great for rooms without views rooms go tail. A few just Rs 350. The idiosyncratic, bottom-floor excellent Indian cooks up really restaurant food, but doesn’t serve beer. dragon design on the ceiling welcomes you near anywhere in but sadly the rooms aren’t as atmospheric. Nonetheless, most – even on truly superb bottom floor – have the cheapest views, but the upstairs Khangchendzonga overpriced. rooms are Views tend to be best from Upper Pelling to be best from Upper Pelling Views tend especially thosehotels, near the old-heli- accordingly are pad playing field but prices viewless rooms Back-facing, higher there. should be cheaper. 900) in the marble floors zonga views and pink Cheaper options are neat, clean bathrooms. viewless and rather small. and with Sonamchen beside the Hotel steps similar fine views, the Simvo’s upper rooms than expensive its best but vastly more are on the bottom floors, the acceptable cheapies might as dingy as the corridors aren’t which suggest. rooms 501 or 502, which are big, very clean clean very big, are which 501 or 502, rooms rooms with carpets. Other and not cursed nearly as good. costing the same aren’t Top End Midrange & are hotels Pelling’s of The vast majority primarily to Bengali catering midrangers families. Rates drop 30% low season typically highly negotiable are and bargaining) (before 100 whenever occupancy is down. With over and counting, the best place is often hotels has just been probably whichever finished, the place behind it. blocking the view of [email protected]; standard s/d/tr Rs 750/850/950) 4 B3 A2 B3 B3 A2 B3 A2 A1 A3 A3 A1 A2 B3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 11 200 m 10 11 12 13 14 0.1 miles 13 2 Pelling WEST SIKKIM •• B The Kabur’s The Kabur’s 12 0 0 To Pemayangtse (2km); Rabdentse (3km); Tikjuk (4km); Geyzing (9km) 9733084348; d back/front Rs 9733084348; d back/front Rs 1 258319; dm Rs 60, d with 258319; dm Rs 60, d with Shared Jeeps to Geyzing...... B3 Hotel Sonamchen...... Hotel The Touristo...... Newa Regency...... Father Tours...... Simvo Tours & Travels...... SNT Counter...... Tourist Office...... Hotel Garuda...... Hotel Haven...... Hotel Kabur...... Hotel Parodzong...... Hotel Rabdentse Residency...... Hotel Simvo...... INFORMATION SLEEPING TRANSPORT 8 % Approximate Scale Approximate ( 7 %

( 6 5 258504; r Rs 150-600) Field

Playing 14 3 (30km) Uttarey (20km); 9 % To Dentam (

A 10 Helipad Pelling’s backpacker favourite has has favourite backpacker Pelling’s No nonsense good-value rooms have rooms have No nonsense good-value Lake (26km); To Rimbi Falls Yuksom (36km) Hotel Parodzong Hotel Kabur Hotel Garuda PELLING 2 (11km); Khecheopalri 3 1 To Sangachoeling (2.3km) munal walkway terrace. munal walkway terrace. those facing north you can see Khangchend- zonga from your bed, albeit across a com- 250/300) From heaters. clean squat toilets and water trees. A small rental car is available. A small rental trees. sticking locks and broken switches. Viewed switches. sticking locks and broken café and open terrace, from the charming the itself preens Khangchendzonga above towels and toilet paper, though a few have have towels and toilet paper, though a few delightful staff fall over themselves to help. delightful themselves staff fall over lamps, wicker cute rooms have Great-value value and guests receive a handy schematic a handy schematic value and guests receive guide map. meeting other travellers. Tours are good good are Tours meeting other travellers. clean, unsophisticated rooms, unbeatable rooms, unbeatable clean, unsophisticated and views from the roof Khangchendzonga ideal for bar-restaurant a cosy Tibetan-style The Garuda and Kabur are backpacker spe- backpacker are The Garuda and Kabur local hotels. just cheap are cialists. Others Budget Budget Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book shared bathroom Rs 150, d with private bathroom Rs bathroom Rs 150, d with private shared bathroom Rs 250-400) SIKKIM atmospheric compoundisringed bygardens hilltop overlooking ruins,the theRabdentse Nyingmapa gompas.Magnificently ona set one of Sikkim’soldestandmostsignificant Lower Pelling. dog Palri incarnations (see p581 ). Onthetopfloor, of depict alleight Padmasambhava’sstatues video.Rhapsody’ Upstairs, fierce-looking fora‘Bohemianlaid intoinfinity as though Padmasambhava’s three-headed form,over- murals, includingmultipleimages of Guru times, themostrecent incarnationfeaturing renovatedmotifs. Itsinterior hasbeen many its doors andwindowspainted withTibetan ful prayerhallisbeautifullyproportioned, unpainted stone. Thecontrastinglycolour- and traditionalmonks’cottages walledin Lotus’, 1705 Literally translated as‘Perfect Sublime elev 2105m Pemayangtse Gompa AROUND PELLING throw awaythereturn ticket. often easiersimplytojoinaday-triptourand booking ex-Pelling issometimespossible, it’s andalthough originate60) jeeps fromGeyzing (Rs60)orYuksom (Rs For Khecheopalri Lake andTikjuk Rabdentse angtse, policestation. near Hotel toPemay- Garuda. Theypassclose leave whenfull(aroundtwiceanhour)from ing. Share (Rs20,20minutes) toGeyzing jeeps nothing isavailable ex-Pelling, change inGeyz- to Kalimpong (Rs120,fourhours, 6.15am).If five hours, 8am). (Rs175, sumostoDarjeeling offers high-season 4½ hours). 150, five hours) andat8amtoSiliguri(Rs150, early morningandaroundnoontoGangtok(Rs progresses butyear-roundseason ridesdepart SNT counter 35, 2½hours). atthe Bookingaheadisadvised Siliguri (Rs105,4½hours) viaJorethang (Rs and Gangtok (Rs85,5½hours) viaRavangla leaveAt 7amSNTbuses Pelling forboth Getting There&Away grocery shops, justahandfulof kiosks. andatravela beer chat. There aren’t really any good food,whiletheGaruda’sagreat placefor particularly Residencyserve and Rabdentse Pelling’s bestdiningisinthehotels. TheKabur Eating 584 The frequency of shared increases jeeps asthe ETSKI • Aon eln WEST SIKKIM••AroundPelling isanastounding seven-tiered model ( % Simvo Tours&Travels Pemayangtse 250707; HotelPelling; Father Tours (donation appropriate) (donationappropriate) ( % 258219)

( % h 258549) 6am-7pm) has jeeps hasjeeps also also in Zan- is The entrancetothesite isaround3kmfrom localarchaeological finds. house eventually almost-finished an utterly fabulousviewpointridge. Asmall unremarkable were theynotsituated onsuch wouldlookfairly inscription stones.These consists of chunky wall-stubswithafew inset now-ruined The ofroyal capital Sikkimfrom1670to1814, Rabdentse agatewayleft through forthehotel. forthemonastery orcontinueandturn right stupa. Follow thesidelane(left),thenturn the Pelling–Geyzing roadisnearanobvious Upper Pelling. Thesignposted from turnoff the timeyouvisit. rebuilda total, transform itby shouldtotally hotel hadbecomesomewhatrun-downbut viewpointinalloftainscape Sikkim.Theold .com; s/dRs3350/4280) MountPandim Elgin zapping of demonswithagreat evil fireball. unfurling of agiantembroidered scrollandthe culminatedances celebratingLosar withthe dedicated lama. made over five laboriousyears bya single of Padmasambhava’s heavenly abode,hand hamlets. Khangchendzonga should bevisible hamlets. Khangchendzonga web of village footpaths small rural through down togently pleasant For arelaxing day tripfromPelling, walk Darap Takeking . aguide. and10-headeddemon battle between thesceneofsupposedly anepicRamayana gachoeling new helipad. left where toPelling’s theasphalted roadrises from Pelling alongthetrackthatveers starting nificent ridgetop It’sasteep 3kmwalk setting. oeling The gompainSikkim, second-oldest Sangachoeling Gompa a forested hill. 15 minutes’ hike aroundapondthenacross nate yellow gateway, theruinsare afurther the Pemayangtse turn-off. Fromthesite’s or- Upper Pelling, than toGeyzing 1kmcloser Pemayangtse is25minutes’ walkfrom In February/March impressive A jungletrek continues10kmbeyondSan- A 10-minute strollfromthegompa, hassomebeautifulmuralsandamag-

to Rabdentse Rabdentse Rani Dhunga Rani has arguably thebestmoun- (

museum % (admission free; 250756; mtpandim@elginhotels Darap village buildingshould (Queen’s Rock), (Queen’s lonelyplanet.com h usingthe dawn-dusk) Sangach- chaam Hotel Hotel

SIKKIM , , Nor- 585 shop, shop, Corona- sat on a a on sat Gupha Dara Kathok Lake offers internet internet offers e site is now Tashi Tenka Tashi teway), a small teway), 1641. Th Community Information Centre 10am-1pm & 3-5pm) , which contains, which house, a prayer h (Norbugang). Standing beneath a and . There’s no village. There’s mein. and chow Share jeeps to Geyzing (Rs 60, two hours) Share Walking to Norbugang Park from Hotel from Hotel Walking to Norbugang Park When Yuksom was Sikkim’s capital, a royal Around the car park is a Buddhist nunnery nunnery is a Buddhist the car park Around to the (9km) descends The trail to Yuksom a sub-hamlet of around a dozen semi-tradi- a sub-hamlet of tional houses. mains but the views are still superb. To find mains but the views are by two the small path marked take the site near crumbling little whitewashed is less than five The site school. the village walk away through tiny minutes’ bugang Park and the supposedlyoriginal chorten vast cryptomeria pine it looks something like an ancient Olympic medal podium made of Just in front is a spooky stone. whitewashed footprint fused This was sup- into the stone. the crowning lamas: lift posedly left by one of the little wooden guard-plank to see it. you’ll pass murky Gang Tashi for taken were anointing waters from which the original coronation. palace complex known as a stone re- views. Today barely 360-degree Yuksom (Yuksam) Yuksom (Yuksam) elev 1780m charming. Yuksom is historic and Loveable for the Khangchend- It’s the main trailhead of views ), but, lacking direct p587 ( zonga Trek the high mountains, has thus far been spared the rapacious development overwhelm- that’s The ing Pelling. (per hr Rs 50; hut near Kathok connection in an unlikely Lake. SIGHTS The word Yuksom means ‘meeting place of Ti- to the trio of lamas’, referring the three chogyalbetan holy men who crowned the first in Sikkim here of tion Throne (behind a shrine-style ga a shrine-style (behind basic Jigme Restaurant servingand the very tea, momos via Pel- travelling 6am at about lake the leave ling (23km). Khangchend- near the emerging main road, follow a suspension bridge, After zonga Falls. to meetthe short-cut trail uphill the Yuksom at Ask village. road, about 2km below Yuksom Hut for detailed directions. the Trekkers to the south with superb almost slight ridge

are im- are dropping you

, 9733076995; dm/tw Khangchendzonga %

( and above the lake. above Phamrong Falls Rimbi Khecheopalri held in March/April, but- held in March/April, The Monastery Loop WEST SIKKIM •• is an isolated pale-green house-hotel pale-green is an isolated Khecheopalri Gompa

are forgettable but forgettable are 03595

Khecheopalri Trekkers Hut Khecheopalri Trekkers Hut up to ing bird-watching or culturally themed guided ing bird-watching time to trek you’ll have If sleeping over, hikes. share several tongba bathrooms. You can get share helpful are and filling meals, and the owners information, sometimes offer- with trekking the car park. Rooms are modest but clean and modest the car park. Rooms are Rs 50/150) hills, isn’t really dramatic. To sense its reputed dramatic. To sensehills, isn’t really its reputed and you could try stayingserenity overnight tourists has visiting once the constant trail of out. petered ter lamps rather than leaves are floated out floated are lamps rather than leaves ter inscrip- prayerflags and Tibetan by fluttering tions, but the setting, with forested ringed across the lake. The birds aren’t fooled. Prayer The birds aren’t across the lake. is backed jetty, which wheels line the lake’s for about half an hour at a car park that’s a for about the little lake. stroll from five-minute During that fall onto its surface. any leaves Mela Khachoedpalri is highly revered by Sikkimese Buddhists by Sikkimese Buddhists is highly revered who believe that birds assiduously remove elev 1951m this holy lake Pronounced ‘catch-a-perry’, KHECHEOPALRI LAKE LAKE KHECHEOPALRI tre time-filler sites. sites. time-filler tre Falls Tourist jeeps stop at several relatively lacklus- Tourist jeeps stop at several relatively Pelling to Yuksom Pelling to Yuksom Although up it’s several kilometres pressive. a dead-end spur road, virtually all Yuksom- visit bound tours Tashiding (one day, no permit required). Even Even day, no permit required). (one Tashiding Restau- further than the Yak if you don’t trek rant, Yuksom is a delightful place to unwind. wonderful Yuksom (via Khecheopalri Lake Khecheopalri wonderful Yuksom (via to using tour jeeps) and hiking from there diminishing the appeal of hiking the trek’s hiking the trek’s of diminishing the appeal on-road sections. a ride to catching Consider ling–Yuksom road means dust clouds get dust clouds get ling–Yuksom road means tourist jeeps, frequent up by ever-more stirred The three-day ‘Monastic Trek’ from Pelling from Pelling Trek’ ‘Monastic three-day The Lake via Khecheopalri remains to Tashiding the Pel- to however, improvements possible; THE MONASTERY LOOP LOOP THE MONASTERY % walks with a ride home afterwards. walks with a to your right most of the way, at least if clouds way, at least the rightto your of most guided Garuda offers Hotel magnanimous. are lonelyplanet.com about 300m back down the access road from ὈὈ

SIKKIM but the cubic prayer house looksvastlynewer.but thecubicprayerhouse 1701, it’stouted asSikkim’soldestmonastery togenic, in hewnstupas.Established coarsely beautifully tended gardensbehind three pho- the entrance of thevillage. meandering mainstreet, especiallytowards Many smallhotels are dotted all alongthe SLEEPING &EATING fully checked. a policepostwhere trekking permitsare care- uphill beyondtheHotel Tashi Gang,passing opposite Hotel Yangri Gang. Choling statue. Similarlycolourfulis and enshrines abiggildedPadmasambhava Gang exudesawonderfulChinatownkitsch pas. pet liliesandsomelovely mature forest. thickets through ofclinic. Thewayrises trum- steep 45-minute climbfromYuksom’svillage inside, locate thecaretaker before the youstart There’s noresident monksoifyouwanttolook 586 (Former SiteofTashiTemkaPalace) 1 3 2 YUKSOM Yuksom hastwophotogenic newgom- aboveHigh Yuksom, The trail to Dzongri and Goecha La heads La The trailtoDzongriandGoecha 3 Tashiding (21km) To Pelling(36km); Kathok WodsallinGompa Kathok ETSKI • TeMnseyLo WEST SIKKIM••TheMonasteryLoop Norbugang Gupha DaraVillage Stupa , Park accessed through anornate gateway through accessed Gompa AC 5 School Dzongri &GoechaLa Dubdi Gompa Trekking Routeto nearHotel Tashi Ngadhak Changchub Gateway B Demazong Hotel is set in in isset 1 Wrecked Jeep Kathok 8 11 Lake 9 6 7 Dzongrila 10 Hotel Dragon neat, clean half-timbered house is slightly rag- isslightly house neat, cleanhalf-timbered jeeps leavejeeps for Jorethang (Rs80,four hours), shared 5.30amand 6.30am, several Between THERE &AWAYGETTING forYuksom’s8pm curfew. closes everything are effectively early as forcedtoget friendly.Eat atwhichrotunda withoneroundtable diners Bothhave stand. jeep anattractive thatched rants, Yak sidebyat thebus/ andGupta, available fromapairof atmosphericrestau- on thewallandmostenjoyfineviews. but deluxe versions have localfabrics,a The décorof someroomsisalittletoo monastic, designed toresemble monastery. aSikkimese Yuksom’s mostappealingoptionistastefully panelling andgoodhotshowers. but deluxe optionsare airywithwoodenhalf- ment roomsare functionalconcrete cubes bathroom Rs150/200,deluxe s/dfromRs300/400) areBathrooms shared. ged butthemostcharming budget option. Hike toTashiding Hotel WildOrchid Hotel Hotel TashiHotel Gang Yangri Gang Hotel Beers, chow mein and Beers, (19km) 2 4 Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Jeep BookingOffice...... Yak Restaurant...... Gupta Restaurant...... Hotel WildOrchid...... Hotel TashiGang...... Ngadhak ChangchubCholing...... Kathok WodsallinGompa...... Coronation Throne...... Police...... Community InformationCentre.... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION oe agiGn...... B3 Hotel YangriGang......

( 0 0 % (

To Dubdi % Gompa

241202; dRs1100,deluxe Rs1300) ( 241212; tw/trRs150/225) % 241217; twwithout/with thukpa D are cheaply 0.1 miles 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Base- thangka B2 B2 B2 B2 B1 A3 C1 A1 C2 B1 200 m This

,

SIKKIM 587 Hongri 9832352756; The upper

% ( Susan Chetri plans a homestay at her , from where public trans- where , from (heard but not seen) then Uttarey , where , where Tsong , a small, unusually unpainted ancient , a small, unusually unpainted Phamrong Falls Beyond Tsong the trail divides. Beyond Tsong Start down the pathway between hotels Start down the pathway between hotels Stage Route 1 2 via Bakhim to Tsokha, Yuksom 3 day at Tsokha, Acclimatisation 4 to Dzongri Tsokha (hr) Duration Acclimatisation day at Dzongri, 5 6-7 or continue to Kokchuran 2-3 Dzongri (or Kokchuran) to Samiti 6 Lake, via Thangsing 7 (or 6) Samiti Lake La, to Goecha 1 7 8 then down to Thangsing Thangsing to Tsokha 4-5 to Yuksom Tsokha 8-9 6-7 5-6 route leads up fairly steeply to lonely to leads up fairly steeply route Gompa ridge- monastery building with a superlative top location. Local folklore claims the gompa top location. Local folklore from a higher location where here was moved by yeti. being ravaged monks kept Yuksom to Tashiding trek Yuksom to Tashiding trek one-day long but highlythis rewarding For starting is easier than com- in Yuksom trek, permits are ing the other way. No trekking required. The most at- Gang and Penathang. Yangri leads around behind route but longest tractive the rises to [email protected]) family’s typical half-timbered house. From the views. Look for the terrific are there terrace end of home towards the eastern blue-framed the main it’s on the right side of the village: trail when heading for Tashiding. SLEEPING SLEEPING Bakhim, huts at Tsokha, trekkers’ are There Thangsing and Samiti Dzongri, Kokchuran, neither run-down). Most have Lake (very you just cuddle up nor mattresses, furniture Bring a mat on the floor. trekkers with fellow and good sleeping bag. Huts sometimes get season, during high so trekking booked-out some camping might be involved. EATING will need to carry sup- You (or your porter) food (and tongba) is avail- plies, but limited able at Dzongri. to emerge at to emerge to Jorethang. port runs

Thangsing Samiti Lake (4940m) for those (4550m, four-hour (4550m, four-hour Goecha La Dzongri La The Monastery Loop WEST SIKKIM •• (4025m). Consider another along the Nepal–Sikkim border or (2740m) and the rustic village of of (2740m) and the rustic village then follows the river to then follows the river Dzongri (3050m), where spending two nights (3050m), where Bakhim Dablakang The return is by essentially the same The return route Taking seven to 10 days, trek costs start at costs start seven at trek to 10 days, Taking From Dzongri, the trail drops steeply to The next stage climbs to pleasant climbs The next stage meadows Don’t underestimate the rigours of the trek. the trek. of the rigours Don’t underestimate Trekking agencies will sort out the permits. will sort out the permits. agencies Trekking Singalila Ridge could cut south for about a week following the ers have recommended an alternative view- alternative an recommended have ers by climbing an hour up from point reached Samiti Lake. the left side of sometimes a lit- but with short cuts that are at Dzongri you Alternatively tle overgrown. to head-spinning Read- Khangchendzonga. views of incredible (3840m). From huts here or at (3840m). From huts here (4200m), an early morning assault you takes Kokchuran acclimatisation day here spent strolling up acclimatisationhere day to around to Tsokha helps with acclimatisation. The route initially follows the Rathong Valley initially follows the RathongThe route Valley then ascends steeply through unspoilt forests ROUTE NOTES ROUTE NOTES Don’t hike too high too too quickly: altitude sick- Don’t hike and fittest those who are ness usually strikes ). Starting at dawn makes p1188 (seefastest sense in the afternoons, as rain is common spoiling views and making trail sections an- noyingly muddy. Yuksom can organise things by sending a things by sendingYuksom can organise a to the capital for you. fixer Paperwork must be done in Gangtok, but must be done in Gangtok, but Paperwork or in Pelling days, agents two or three given US$30 to US$50 per person per day (assum- US$30 to US$50 per person four), including food, guides, ing a group of and yaks. porters views of Khangchendzonga. Khangchendzonga. views of Goecha La, fabulous a 4940m pass with quite For guided groups with permits, Yuksom is Yuksom is groups with permits, guided For to Sikkim’s classic trek the starting point of hours) leave at 6.30am. leave hours) Goecha La – The Dzongri & Trek Khangchendzonga jeeps for Gangtok (Rs 160, six hours) and for jeeps Gangtok (Rs 160, six hours) for 2½ approximately (Rs 60, GeyzingPelling via via Tashiding (Rs 45, 1½ hours) from in front from (Rs 45, 1½ hours) via Tashiding enough Restaurant. demand, Given Yak of lonelyplanet.com round trip) for fabulous views of Mt Pandim Mt Pandim round trip) for fabulous views of (6691m). SIKKIM to follow,withrecently laidstonegrips.But let, findingthewaycanbemildlyconfusing. hotels allhave shared bathrooms. predictionsimportant about the comingyear. ofthe level holy water within,theymake all- gingerly openasacred pot.Then,judgingfrom ebrates the the golden upon it.Smallerbutmore visuallyexciting is to washawaythesinsof anyonewhogazes chortens, includingthe overous compoundcontains adozenwhite the wholevalleytowardsRavangla. flowergardenencompass across asemi–wild coarse, butwonderfullywideviewsfromhere inspection mostof theexterior décorisrather and looksgreat fromadistance. Oncloser main prayerhall proportioned,thefour-storeygilt. Beautifully prayer tional monks’quarters. Noticethegiant-sized buildings are more strungoutbetween func- p585 ), themonastery’s five colourfulreligious 1641 byoneof thethree Yuksomlamas(see Gompa iding leads somewhatsteeply uptotheancient ous ifsometimesslipperymoss-stonefootpath gateway photogenic ofa series atmospheric takesjunction towardsLegship youdownpast impressive. Walking400msouthfromthe road, butitssouth-facing viewsare wideand street theYuksom–Legship forkingnorthoff Little Tashiding isjustasingle,slopingspur- elev 1490m Tashiding almost 10kmof longswitchbacks byroad. bytheshort-cutpathsis longandsteep or cient to thatmonastery hassomefascinating,an- very above high Tashiding. Thefinalapproach alongtheridgehigh bringsyouto the more direct wayto Tashiding. Continuing beside thevillage shop.Descendingtakes you littlepond),thetraildividesagain the sweet Dara A few minutes beyondinattractive patches At withlurkingleeches. descending fromHongrithere are slippery 588 Tashiding village’s three basic,friendly Till thispointtheroute isrelatively easy In January orFebruary, themonastery cel- thelastmonasticbuilding,acuri- Beyond (where atourist lodge ismooted beside OT IKM • ago oSnhk toSinghik SIKKIM••Gangtok NORTH mani

wheel attheKm14post.Fromhere anobvi- wallsbutthedescenttoTashiding Bumchu Kench Chorgi Lorde Chorgi Kench in around40minutes. Foundedin Tibetan inscriptions

with Tibetan scriptpicked outin hasadelicate filigree topknot festival during which lamas mani walls Thong-Wa-Rang-Dol stupa. toacolourful and brightly andbrightly Nessa Sinon Gompa Hotel Blue Hotel Pokhari Pokhari ham- Tash- , said , said

Guest House food and,like neater theslightly English isspoken. Around1kmsoutheast The narrowbutmostlywellpaved 31ANHWay GANGTOK TOSINGHIK Yumthang tourandatnoextracost. duringbriefstopsonany be conveniently seen theycan However, ently usingpublicjeeps. Phodong and Mangan/Singhik independ- travelling alone. It’sperfectly possibletovisit (see that’s easytoobtain p571 ) unlessyou’re hik currently requires aspecial permit but Reaching themandanywhere northof Sing- the idyllicYumthangandTsopta Valleys. The biggest attractionsinNorthSikkimare % NORTH SIKKIM duringearlyafternoon.som passthrough toYuk- 6.30amand8am.Afewbetween jeeps 25, onehour)passthemainjunction,mostly Jorethang (Rs60,twohours) (Rs viaLegship bathroom. better3, 4and5even onesfromtheshared south of themarket, hasfineviewsfromRooms iding Lodge further up,hasvery helpfulowners. Bird 9th Karmapa. extensivetains murals andalarge of statue the somewhat marred gratingsbutcon- bymetal tentially beautifultwo-storey prayerhall is Gompa Phodong a very degradedformer roadleadstothe near theKm39post,a15-minute walkalong Dzhambala rooms are available, the too,notably dong make apopularlunch stop.Simple A little stripof roadsiderestaurants atPho- elev 1814m Phodong cardamon grove. stage cascadecuttingachasm above aroadside Waterfall Sisters stops at on theotherside. Ifdriving,considerbrief backupagain in prayerflags,onlytocoilright of hairpinstoabridge, photogenically draped Teesta River, occasionallydescending longcoils above woodedslopeshigh clings tosteep the Share (Rs50,1½hours) toGeyzing or jeeps

03592

( % 243563; dm/s/dRs100) Tashi Viewpoint

( ( ( % % % atKm30.Thelatter’s amulti- (established in 1740).Thepo- (established 243249; Legship Rd;trRs200) 9434136873; dRs150-250) 243211, 9733092480;d/trRs100/150) ( p574 ) andthe serves good-value serves lonelyplanet.com Mt Siniolchu , where New Tash- , 300m 300m , Hotel Hotel Seven

SIKKIM 589 is an attractive two-storey mon- two-storey is an attractive along the Yeti-infested Zemu along the Yeti-infested (headman) is elected every year. everyyear. (headman) is elected pipon Green Lake Cheaper hotels tend to have a mixed bag a mixed to have tend Cheaper hotels Lachen is the trailhead for expedition treks Lachen is the trailhead for expedition treks Around 15 minutes’ walk above town, town, walk above Around 15 minutes’ Lachen Lepcha both villages and Lachung are Thanggu. We have listed a few favourites but but favourites a few listed Thanggu. We have to north- Glacier towards Khangchendzonga’s long advance planning Theseeast face. require permits. expensive and very the the Upper Teesta Valley LACHEN tra- Lachen was an untouched, recently Till fast That’s changing ditional Lepcha village. roadside houses being progres- with pretty house-hotels. by concrete replaced sively sprinkled with Nonetheless, alleyways remain old wooden homes on sturdy stone bases and constructions with colourful, Tibetan-style every- stacked window frames. Logs are faceted fuel. for winter where Lachen Gompa coloured with engrossing, superbly astery murals. normally your tour agencies will preselect for preselect will agencies your tour normally places stayyou. Some family on the off open Indian tourists, but many passing of chance no pre- close lodges up when there’s better group due. booked same the rooms whose whether prices are of has geyser,or not the room shower, heating, do, some don’t. It’s window or balcony. Some rooms pot luck, so try to see different a few even if you can’t choose your hotel. in which local democracy with a unique form of

.

Mangan dances dances viewpoint Labrang Gompa Labrang Chaam Chaam 234287; Km 71; d Rs 550) Friendship Guest House % (

has rooms with shared has rooms with shared NORTH SIKKIM •• Beyond Singhik has two decent accommodation has two decent accommodation

tial points of interest without prodding. without prodding. tial points of interest tok) between 6pm and 6.30pm a few days before you plan to travel. There’s no fixed system, system, no fixed There’s you plan to travel. days before tok) between 6pm and 6.30pm a few just ask other travellers. tours start depending on ac- Three-night/four-day at Rs 2500 per person for groups of five commodation standards. the jeep. the jeep.

Bring a torch for inevitable power cuts. Don’t miss tasting tongba (tiny extra cost). in the dark. it’s a shame to arrive Gangtok early on the first day: Leave Don’t assume he’ll stop at all poten- of a translator. Your (obligatory) ‘guide’ is actually more Lodge (Gang- partners, out in the café at New Modern Central To find jeep-share try hanging and Lachen. than four days is too rushed to comfortably visit both Yumthang/Lachung Less A group size of four or five people strikes the ideal to balance cost spreading and space in and space in people strikes the ideal to balance cost spreading of four or five size A group 234278; s/d Rs 200/400)

„ „ „ „ „ „ NORTH SIKKIM TOUR TIPS NORTH SIKKIM TOUR TIPS „ Singhik is a Rs 50 taxi ride from Mangan, Singhik is a Rs 50 taxi ride from Mangan,

Singhik Walk on another 30 minutes to the much much to the 30 minutes on another Walk Singhik Tourist Lodge %

With relevant permits (and a tour jeepWith relevant for Sing- you can continue north of foreigners) in Lachunghik. Accommodation is available basic options in and Lachen, with two more BEYOND SINGHIK BEYOND SINGHIK which is servedwhich jeeps from Gangtok by regular hours). (Rs 90, three (through in Gangtok). office the tourist sers. There’s a restaurant, too, but it’s usu- a restaurant, sers. There’s prebooked ally only open when groups are have heaters and private bathrooms with gey- and private heaters have ( choices both with more great views. Set great in a both with more choices roadside flower garden, a sharp bend mark a small footpath; a three- a sharp bend mark a small descent leads to a panoramic minute 1.5km beyond, weather-blackened stupas on 1.5km beyond, weather-blackened North Sikkim’s district headquarters, headquarters, North Sikkim’s district itself to be the(Km 67 post) proudly declares ‘Large Cardamon Capital the World’. Some of take place in early December. place in early December. take Singhik Phodong to times. Upstairs a fearsome sports a deity sports a a fearsome times. Upstairs heads. severed necklace of (established murals in 1884). Its prayerhall pose 1022 the same Padmasambhava repeat more atmospheric and peaceful and atmospheric more lonelyplanet.com bathrooms within the home of an adorable an adorable of bathrooms within the home Sikkimese no English). family (who speak is a clean if slightly musty hotel where rooms where is a clean if slightly hotel musty SIKKIM limits toforeign tourists. itremainsto playinthesnow.However, off tourists whodrive uptothetop with Bengali the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsand conditionsonour siteforalongerway ofsaying you know, orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake chimetwin giantprayerwheels periodically. paintings (innerleftwallasyouenter) andits refined of muralsincludeonesection original hung Gompa the Katao roadforgreat viewsfromthe to theSanchok sidethenclimb1.5kmalong bridgelever acrossthewildYumthangRiver full dramaof canti- take themetal itssetting, Toappreciateamorphous littleLachung. the dered withlongribbonsof waterfall surround Soaring rock-pinnacledvalleywallsembroi- Lachung far-flung outpostswaybeyond. to supplysomeof more theIndianmilitary’s donkey onmissions convoyswanderthrough glacier-toothed wall.Zo-yaksand mountain western horizonhastheaddeddramaof a rather like (Scotland)butthevalley’s Glencoe ley allows) isveering leftupthelovely for foreigners theonlyoption(ifguide tinue 30kmnorthto on 2kmtotiny and viewsof theriver. are simplebuttwohave squattoilet attached tongba-drinking den(tongbaRs10).Rooms traditionally styledkitchen, diningarea and incorporatingaveryordinary familyhouse Resort the-world feel. Misleadinglynamed, of Lachen, asprawlingarmycamp32kmnorth Beyond THANGGU &TSOPTA town. 3000) tiny video-cinema,besidethepostoffice. withTibetan motifs.It’sabovefully carved the Lodge a great budget optionissuper-friendly 590 © LonelyPlanetPublications Hotel SonamPalgey Hotel youraccommodation, If youcanchoose Mt Katao A boulder-strewn moorlandstream leads . Justabove thetree line,thesceneryfeels isconsidered in themostcomfortable OT IKM • eodSnhk SIKKIM••BeyondSinghik NORTH

(tw Rs250) ( twRs300; , nearly30kmbeyond,ispopular Thanggu (established 1880).Thegompa’s (established , hose upperfaçadeiscolour-, hose Tsopta h hasanappealingend-of- May-Nov) . Indianvisitors cancon- (www.sonampalgey.com; dRs isanoutwardly Tsopta Val- Thanggu Thanggu , but Bayul Lac- disgracefully tasteless pinkconcrete of the views acrossthevalley,marred onlybythe above theprayerroom,offers magnificent veritable andthetop-floor minimuseum roof, is wellworthvisiting.Oneupperfloorhasa very steep. Even thebuilding ifyoudon’tstay, are walk-inpricesare though comfortable, ( p574 ). Roomshave localdesignfeatures and of atourwithModernTreks taking &Tours heremonastery. Staying isonegreat advantage of likeflight Tibetan fancyrises afairytale south of thisbrilliantlycolourful Lachung, Village;dRs2500) gring more upmarket. resort) hostelry-restaurant, bestonthetopfloor. typically mixed bagof roomsabove afriendly Open year-round, thefamily-runSilahasa a traditional stoves andcanchurn salt-butter tea foryouin traditionalTibetan-stylemaintain wood-fire Many season. outwardlymodernplaces in high at Rs250forthemostbasic,butpricesdouble start turns off themainYumthangroad.Rates Faka where village Bazaar road theLachung the mostconvenient concentrationaround Hotels are dotted aboutavery widearea with SLEEPING towards Tibet. candelabraoftable rising jagged mountains Alpine scene:glaciers, spikypeaks andaveri- 360-degree viewsof anutterly magnificent Now, weatherpermitting,youshould have five minutes gently downhilltotheriverbank. of there. After drivingthat1km,walkabout therealever, about 1kmnorth dramastarts pool inanunlit,rubbish-ringed hut.How- ‘holy’ overrated aboutthehighly doubtless enthuse the majestic Yumthang Valley. Guideswill continuing 23kmfurthernorthtoadmire The mainpointof is comingtoLachung Yumthang Marco PoloHotel, 500mdirectly below. Modern Residency Sila InnLodge Nearby hotels and hot springs Sonam Palgey Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com sudah ( , %

Le Coxy a grimy,unlit2sqmetre In asidelanearound3km

(Taagsing Retreat; Retreat; (Taagsing plunger device. 214808; sRs250d350-400) (www.sonampalgey.com)

(www.nivalink.com/lecoxy % 214888; Sin- are