SWEDEN Cheap

SWEDEN cheap. if,asitsreputationand stunning naturalbeauty– even don’t come holds,Sweden’s delights But thebudget traveller whomakes ituphere willberichly rewarded with amazingcities a bitbeyondthemainstream, injustabout way: geographically, every politically, culturally. will probably have withSwitzerland.True,this narrowsliceof itconfused Scandinavia lies Ask 10peoplewhattheyknowaboutSwedenandnineof Sweden

1088 HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS © LonelyPlanetPublications

multiculti Möllevångstorget area ( p1108 ) Malmö (p1116) north Ice Hotel cobblestoned backstreets of ( GamlaStan p1094 ) Stockholm destination inSweden( p1107 ) track Off-the-beaten Best Journey

big (Gotland) or small (Stockholm archipelago). big (Gotland)orsmall(Stockholm style,digintoUppsala, Gothenburg andMalmö,exploreSoak upStockholm someislands– ROAMING SWEDEN hostels andfriendlinesstowardsfree camping. Eat outatlunchtime,buyyouralcoholduty-free, advantageofSweden’sexcellent andtake TRAVEL HINTS FAST FACTS

ja Phrases UK£1 =Skr13.85;US$1Skr7.32 ¥100=Skr6.24;NZ$1Skr4.82; A$1 =Skr5.49;CA$1Skr6.57; Money minority languages;Englishwidelyspoken Languages Minister Fredrik Reinfeldt Head ofState ABBA, meatballs,IKEA Famous for Capital Budget ATMs Area (yes), Getting as close tothecontinentaspossiblewithoutleaving thecountryin asclose Getting 449,964sqkm Widespread Enjoyingafrostybeverage andafrozenbedatthisultracooljewelinthefar Swedishkrona(Skr);€1=Skr9.29; Stockholm Touringthewaterways, andwanderingthe exploringtop-notch museums Skr600toSkr800perday nej

hej Visiting an island, any island, by ferry in the Stockholm archipelago Visitinganisland,anybyferry ( intheStockholm p1106 ) (no), Swedishplusfive official (hello), Vikings, Volvos,blondes, Vikings, King Carl XVIGustav,Prime King tack Doingabicyclelooparoundtheislandof Gotland,thebestbudget hej då (thanks) (goodbye),

of uptothree months. Visas Time Telephone Code Population GMT/UTC +1hour notneededformostvisitorsstays themwillmentionABBA. Thetenth 9,016,596

% 46 lonelyplanet.com SWEDEN D E N M A R K Skagerrak Trondheim N ORWAY N ORWEGIA Öresund Bridge GOTHENBURG (GÖTEBORG)

COPENHAGEN

Strömstad Kattegat Uddevalla S EA HELSINGBORG

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KARLSTAD Ö

BORÅS T Öresund A Särna

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Värnamo A Arvika Vänern S

LUND S JÄMTLAND N Mo iRana

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K Hässeleholm Storsjön

Å D Åre E

Ystad N Ljungby Siljan Motala Kristianstad

E A

Vättern Borlänge Sveg

S Huskvarna ÖREBRO

L M Eksjö Mora Vadstena NORRKÖPING

Karlshamn N Å A Östersund Ὀ Ὀ VÄXJÖ

L Rättvik O Bollnäs Hjälmaren VÄSTERÅS N A R Narvik D Falun N Sala Storuman LINKÖPING Karlskrona R D NATIONAL PARK L LAPPLAND Kalmar

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Oskarshamn A Mälaren Örnsköldsvik SAREK ESKILSTUNA Hudiksvall Öland N Söderhamn Kebnekaise Riksgränsen GÄVLE Nyköping SUNDSVALL D NATIONAL PARK UPPSALA Härnösand Björkliden ABISKO Gotland Nynäshamn Malmberget Ὀ STOCKHOLM Abisko

Höga Lycksele Visby Gällivare

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B A L T I C S E A Bothnia of Gulf Karesuando Jokkmokk NATIONAL PARK Jukkasjärvi Boden Vuollerim MUDDUS UMEÅ Åland Skellefteå 0 0 Övertorneå Piteå Pajala Vaasa Luleå Turku (Åbo) F INLAD Approximate NorthOnly L ITHUAN Haparanda L ATVI

Arctic E STONIA Gulf of Finland (Helsingfors) HELSINKI TALLINN RÌGA Circle (Uleåborg) 120 miles Oulu 200 km

1089 SWEDEN SWEDEN SWEDEN urban centres of Gothenburg and Stockholm, lous country. Mostof folkslive those inthe home, makingit Scandinavia’s mostpopu- Around ninemillionpeople callSweden THE CULTURE to thecentre-right AllianceforSweden. government shifted fromtheSocialDemocrats election of 2006,controlof September Sweden’s quo,inthegeneral withthestatus satisfaction ofWhether because thisnewdiversity ordis- offactionalisation thesociopoliticallandscape. on theITindustryhave corresponded with economically. Immigrationandanewreliance from itshomogeneous past,bothculturallyand popular foreign minister, AnnaLindh. by themurderjustdaysbefore of Sweden’s ‘no’ vote. Thereferendum wasovershadowed Sweden should adopt theeuroresulted ina improved. A2003referendum onwhether dergone reforms tough andtheeconomyhas Swedes voted tojointheEU. economy andnationalconfidenceshaken, ofsive devaluation theSwedishkrona. Their world recession of theearly1990sledtomas- ofstandard livingforordinarySwedes.Butthe afterstate thewar. in powersince1932,introducedawelfare the outbreak of WWI.TheSocialDemocrats, Swedendeclared neutralat radicalised. itself In thisenvironmenttheworkingclasswas ofcities andthelevel industrywasincreasing. powers kingandparliament. between constitutional amendmentdividedlegislative Iin1523.In1809a who wascrownedGustaf Vasa,lion undertheyoungnobleman Gustaf ish nationalistgrumblingserupted inrebel- from Denmark)reigned. Acenturyof Swed- kings(many the aristocratsandtheirchosen Byzantine territories. Alongwithpagangods, Russia, aswelltradingwith(andpillaging) the 9thcentury;Vikingsmadetheirmarkin The VikingAge wasgetting under wayby HISTORY beach,trail, scopingnationalartcollectionsorsunningonasandy really are free. street snacksplentiful.Andthebestthings,like campinginthickforests, hikingawilderness penny-pinchers canenjoygood-qualityaccommodationandfood–hostels are excellentand ofto publictransport,usuallyrunsmoothly.Agenerally standard living meansthateven high ing och reda’ 1090 By 1900almostoneinfourSwedeslived in Travelling inSwedentends tobeeasy,whatever to yourbudget. Thenationaldevotion In recent years Swedenhasgrownaway inthe therapidrise The 1950sand’60ssaw Since 1995Sweden’swelfare hasun- state SWEDEN •• History SWEDEN ••History – essentially, organisation andorder–ensures– essentially, thatmostsystems, fromParliament Lutheran, although onlyabout 10%regularlyLutheran, although abletoadoptchildrenbeen since2003. married couplesunderSwedishlaw,andhave couples have asheterosexual rights thesame mothers.strollers Gayandlesbian asitistosee parents fathers pushing –it’sascommontosee paternity leave isshared equallybetween cies. Theextensive state-mandated maternity/ in linewithitssociallyprogressive tenden- include Poland,ChileandSomalia. in Sweden.Otherwell-represented countries and Iran.There are anestimated 40,000 Roma largest groupshave comefromIraq,Turkey countries. Ofnon-Europeanimmigrants,the immigrants have comefromotherEuropean or have atleastonenon-Swedishparent. Most 20% of Sweden’spopulationare foreign-born largely concentrated inthenorth.More than country’s geographical area. Norrland, which takes uptwo-thirdsof the Malmö –only12%of thepopulationlives in pet takes placeeach yearin March. ally andthe huge Nordicrace calledVasalop- also common. and sailing nated isstillapopularoneinSweden.Golf, designing underpants,butthesport hedomi- advertisements allover thecountry. hockey Peter star ‘Foppa’Forsberg graces league. Thehandsomevisage of Swedish ties and12professional teams in thepremier There are amateur teams in mostcommuni- FIFA WorldCupinGermany. love life. Erikssonleftthejobafter the2006 Eriksson, famedforhisallegedly scandalous England’s nationalteam coach, Sven-Göran profile nameinSwedish footballisprobably country’s mostpopularsport.Thehigh- More thanamillionSwedesplayfootball,the SPORT attend church services. Some 87%of theSwedishpopulationis Sweden’s overall approach tofamilylife is There are about17,000SamiinSweden, Alpine skiingcompetitions are heldannu- Tennis Björn star Borg hasmoved onto Ice hockey isanotherbigsportinSweden. bandy (similartoicehockey) are lonelyplanet.com ‘ordn- lonelyplanet.com the country will see examplesof their work. the country willsee painters –visitors in tonearlyanyart museum Liljefors are amongthebest-known Swedish Andersson Fares. andJosef tors of note includeLukasMoodysson, Roy theworld.Newer Swedish direc-throughout and WildStrawberriesdefiningSwedish film Seal landmark filmssuch asTheSeventh filmdirectorsimportant of alltime,with detective KurtWallander author of featuring morose acrimeseries authors tolookforincludeHenning Mankell, pigtailed ish writer isAstrid Lindgren, creator of the the biggest name. Butthebest-loved Swed- August Strindberg dominate Swedish radio. tions like AmyDiamondandElenaPaparizou Soundtrack of OurLives. Domesticsensa- Conspiracy, TheHives, Timbuktu andThe Hellacopters, The(International) Noise recent exportsincludeSaharaHotnights, rock. Everyone knowsaboutABBA, butmore andbaroquetofolk,jazz from medieval Sweden hostsabout 120musicfestivals yearly, of musicintheworld(after theUSandUK), in mostSwedish households. Orrefors, theproductsof which canbespotted is thetrifecta of Bodaand glassworks, Kosta, of Swedishinterior design.Alsoinfluential Mathsson are amongtheearlyprogenitors Malmsten Frank,Carl as Josef andBruno come outof nowhere, of –artistssuch course didn’t bold-printcurtains and affordable bookshelves aesthetics. Theself-assembled are mandatoryinanydiscussion of Swedish wordslike and‘clean-lined’ ‘spartan’ to IKEA, design andpopmusicthanfinearts.Thanks Sweden todayisprobably better knownfor ARTS spy novelist Jan Guillou. Carl Larsson, Anders Larsson, ZornandBrunoCarl In theliterary world,stormydramatist By somecountsthethird-largest exporter Ingmar Bergman remainsIngmar Bergman oneof themost illuminating journeyacrossSweden. readersbook thattakes ofallagesonan Nils J Nordstrom. digested historyofthecountrybyByron The HistoryofSweden READING UP (1906) bySelmaLagerlöfisachildren’s Pippi Longstocking TRANSPORT •• Getting There &Away ••Getting TRANSPORT The Adventures Wonderful of (Miss Julie) (2002) isaneasily (Dogs of Riga), . Contemporary isprobably and Sturup airport 727727; www.scandinavian.net) hours). and R Stockholm 11 hours). Tallink dailybetween alsosails and Kapellskär–Paldiski (from€28,10to Stockholm–Tallinn (from€45,15hours) SwedenandEstonia ontworoutes:between Tallink BALTIC COUNTRIES Finland. fied. Trytobookinadvance,especially from All fares listed are onewayunlessspeci- Sea international flights. as afew otherminorairports,alsohave direct airport ter North Americancities.Gothenburg’s major Scandinavian towns,andEuropean .se) Arlanda airport The major international airportisStockholm’s Air THERE&AWAY GETTING TRANSPORT in hostels andcampinggrounds. plastic etc)–you’llbeexpected todothesame and recycling waste household (paper,glass, believers Swedesare insorting high. fervent best are inLapland). there are now28inSweden (thebiggest and up nationalparksintheearly20thcentury; andskerries. foritssmallfjords notable hillier andheavily forested. Thecoastlineis Denmark, butfurthernorththelandscapeis Flat andopenSkåneinthesouthissimilarto its maximumnorth–southextent is1574km. Sweden covers anarea of 449,964sqkm,and ENVIRONMENT the international prizesin1901. willfoundedtheNobelInstitute and whose inventor of dynamite andotherexplosives, classifications; andAlfred Nobel,the Latin who pioneered under modernplanttaxonomy are vonLinné,the18th-centurybotanist Carl Ecological consciousnessinSwedenisvery Nature-loving SwedesledEuropeinsetting Swedesinscience The twomostimportant , withdirect linkingthecountryto flights The nationalcarrieris

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0770- SWEDEN SWEDEN SWEDEN between Grenåbetween andVarberg (fromSkr115, Stena three Linealsosails orfourtimesdaily and Frederikshavn (fromSkr130,3¼hours). Gothenburgfive dailybetween to10sailings from Stockholm toHelsinkifrom Stockholm costsfrom€33. routes.erates Overnight daily onthesame Skr625, 14hours, three tosixweekly). near Karlskrona insouthernSweden(from KlaipedainLithuaniaandKarlshamn,tween 1092 and Kiel (from Skr390,13½ hours). daily (overnight) Gothenburg between cruises snitz (fromSkr120, 3¾hours, three daily). 5¾ hours, three daily) andTrelleborg andSas- Trelleborgtween andRostock (fromSkr185, Scandlines GERMANY Umeå toVaasa (Skr450,fourhours). .rgline.com) crossing. for aday/night costfrom€14/19 toTurkusailings Stockholm crossing,11hours).€18/36 day/night €92, around15hours) andtoTurku(from (overnight) toHelsinki fromStockholm (from toandfromports. Line offer busservices round costsmore. BothSiljaLineandViking summer andfromThursday toSaturdayyear- in Swedish, andTurku calledÅbo. Travel in Åland). Note thatHelsinki iscalled Helsingfors Turku andStockholm–Helsinki routes (allvia goyear-round onStockholm– Daily services FINLAND nine timesdaily. twoto hours) andfast(70minutes) services, holm) from€22.There are conventional (2½ mstrafikken.dk) Prices alsoincrease insummer. 10pm and6am,orfromMondaytoThursday. four hours). It’scheaper totravel between ( ( Ferries Three companiesoperate onthisroute: and Helsingborg (Skr20toSkr22,20minutes). are Helsingør between The quickest services DENMARK % % Stena Line Stena BornholmsTrafikken Lisco Line Further north, Silja Line Stena Line Stena Line Viking 042-186300; www.scandlines.se) 042-385880; www.sundsbussarna.se) TRANSPORT •• Getting There &Away ••Getting TRANSPORT

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% 0411-558700; www.bornhol

( % and 090-185200; www . Sundsbussarna , sails daily sails Scandlines sails be- sails sails be- sails op- has has HH-

cated inside thebusterminals inStockholm, lo- busoperator,hasanoffice long-distance Denmark viatheÖresund tollbridge). Train from Norway,FinlandandDenmark(from Direct access toSwedenbylandispossible Land (Norway). €29, 25hours, viaKristiansand twiceweekly) fromGothenburgsails toNewcastle(from DFDS Seaways UK route (fromSkr550,ninehours, daily). .pl) ride free. hours, three Children weekly). underseven Gda toninehours, daily)andalsobetween seven between Polferries POLAND at€44. anddayof starting theweek, season and Oslo (14 hours) varyaccordingtothe via Helsingborg. Fares Helsingborg between ferries Copenhagennight between andOslo, ( (from €16,2½hours, twotosixdaily). andSandefjord ferries Strömstad between Color Line NORWAY daily), and between Gothenburgdaily), and between andCopen- Copenhagen (Skr538,ninehours, twotofour and Stockholm between Eurolines runsbuses DENMARK hours, twodaily). (Skr610,approximatelyburg toBerlin 12 fromGothen- ThereBrussels. are alsoservices Copenhagen, Hamburg andAmsterdam or via Malmö,30 hours, twotofive goes weekly) (fromSkr1299,approximately London service to Europeancities.TheStockholm several Swedenand runbetween Eurolines services CONTINENTAL EUROPE from€199/299. day passes Gothenburg andMalmö. Italsooffers 15-/30- go directly toferries. vehiclesSweden andtheContinent–these and busjourneysare alsopossiblebetween % alsooperates onthe DFDS Seaways All fares listed are onewayunlessspecified. Eurolines 031-650650); ń sk andNynäshamn (fromSkr560,18

( ( Ś % % winouj Unity Line

( % 0526-62000; www.colorline.com) 040-121700; www.polferries.se)

( % Helsingborg 031-100240; www.eurolines.com)

(www.dfdsseaways.com) 031-650650; www.dfdsseaways.com) ś cie and Ystad (fromSkr490, cie andYstad ( % ( % 0411-556900; www.unityline Ś 042-266000) winouj lonelyplanet.com ś runsover- cie–Ystad cie–Ystad Gothenburg operates operates , the

and have discountfares fortravel fromMon- .se) and Swebus Express hagen (Skr280,4½hours, three tofive daily). lonelyplanet.com Skr230, four hours, uptosix daily). Gothenburgand between andOslo (from Oslo (fromSkr392,7½ hours, three daily) express.se) Skr220 (fourhours). and Malmö. Gothenburg toOslo costsfrom Copenhagen viaGothenburg, Helsingborg Oslo and between has regular dailyservices and Copenhagen). Oslo toGothenburg continueonto Malmö from burg andOslo (manyof theservices andOslo, andGothen- connecting Stockholm The major buscompanies operate onroutes NORWAY hours, twiceweekly). holm andTornioviaHaparanda (Skr515,15 .se) Oulu. Haparanda, TornioandKemi, finishingin into Finland,fromSkellefteå orLuleåonto alongthenortherncoast a dailybusservice which alsorunsthe‘BothnianArcX-press’, run by border. ontheSwedishsideare Busservices There are crossingpointsalongtheriver seven FINLAND at leastonedaybefore departure. you buyyourticket –forbestprices,purchase Prices varydramaticallydependingonwhen InterCity trains take daily). 4½hours, seven via Helsingborg, LundandMalmö (slower Copenhagen andGothenburg (3½hours) operate between services Three high-speed Norrköping, Linköping,LundandMalmö. (from Skr447,five hours, upto14daily)via Copenhagentrains between andStockholm Järnväg bridge. minutes, 20minutes) every viathe Öresund Copenhagen andMalmö (fromSkr85,35 from southernSweden,andrunbetween discounts. youth (under26)andsenior day toThursday. Allcompaniesoffer student, Swebus Express Eurolines Tapanis Buss The Swedishnationalrailcompany, both run regular buses on the same routes, bothrunregular onthesame buses Trains are the quickest option,especially runsovernight Stock- coaches between Säfflebussen

(SJ; runs services between Stockholm and Stockholm between runsservices Länstrafiken Norrbotten Länstrafiken %

( 0771-757575; www.sj.se) ( (

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031-100240; www.eurolines.com) 0200-218218; www.swebusexpress.se) 0922-12955, 08-153300;www.tapanis ( % 0771-151515; www.safflebussen 0200-218218; www.swebus

( % , runsX2000 020-470047) Säfflebussen Sveriges Sveriges ,

and Narvik insummer(Skr241,2½hours, one and Narvik Network connects manysouthern townswithStockholm. Network connects 30% cheaperfromMonday toThursday. Oslo,Copenhagen &Berlin.Fares Alsoserves Malmö). are Gothenburg– Stockholm–Gothenburg, Stockholm–Malmö, .se) Smallernetwork,runningdailyonmajorroutes (eg Svenska Buss Svenska Säfflebussen all butSwebusExpress. discount. Advancebookingsare required for you’re askfora under26,astudentorsenior, try, inparticular,willrely heavily If onbuses. network. Travellers tothenorthof thecoun- Sweden hasasafe, reliable andextensive bus Bus many smallislandsoff thecoast. Gotlandand,insummer, Oskarshamn serve mer. Regularferries fromNynäshamnand Mälaren, west of are Stockholm, busyinsum- onLake holm archipelago, andboatservices theStock- An extensive boatnetworkserves Boat major towns. bike-hire outletsanddedicated paths inmost and JulyAugustinthenorth.You’llfind isMay inthesouth, best season toSeptember Skåne andGotlandare idealforcycling.The Bicycle than Scandinavia/Finland. Pass forresidents of Europeancountriesother includingtheVisitScandinaviapasses, Air .net) The nationalcarrier Air inSweden. for alltrains,boatsandbuses on .resplus.se) viated bythe confusion of somanyoperators ispartlyalle- different Public transportiswellorganised using24 AROUND GETTING or twodaily). ( of Norway’sborder. strafiken) Gothenburg toOslo (fromSkr180,10daily). holm–Oslo route (fromSkr305,five daily)and ( % % Many regional transportnetworks länstrafik 0771-151515; www.safflebussen.se) 020-470047) offers avarietyof discountair-travel , where oneticket isvalidontrainsand run buses towithinafew runbuses kilometres länstrafik ( ( % buses. The website has timetables Thewebsite hastimetables buses. operates services between Kiruna between operates services % Resplus system Resplus 0771-151515; www.safflebussen 0771-676767; www.svenskabuss.se) 0771-676767; www.svenskabuss.se) (regional networks).The SAS Länstrafiken Norrbotten Länstrafiken (code SK;www.scandinavian (

% runs theStock- 0771-878787; www 1093 (län-

SWEDEN SWEDEN SWEDEN (look for also behired frommanylarge petrolstations rates andbranches inmajor can cities.Cars reasonable rates. % alone. half of thecountry can’tbereached bytrain many destinationsinthenorthernthough Trains are thefastest waytoget around,al- Train in towns. usually aflatfare of aroundSkr15toSkr20 in thecityandonruralroutes. There’s transport, butaregional passisvalidboth fromlong-distance slightly maydiffer buses regional In Sweden,localtransportislinked with the Local Transport .se) in major cities. firms (egAvis, Hertz, Europcar)have offices be offered atdiscountrates. Allthemajor around, asweekend orsummerpackages may Skr600 perdayforsmallermodels,butshop Stockholm) 690 3800;www.motormannen.se;Sveavägen159,SE-10435 is vehicle registration documents. hire. Ifbringingyourowncar,you’llneed a recognised forcar fulldrivinglicence,even lic tollroadsorbridges. Youusuallyonlyneed Sweden hasgoodroadsandthere are nopub- & Motorcycle Car Ybuss Swebus Express 1094 Uppsala, Gävle,Sundsvall),andtoÖstersund. alongthecoastasfarUmeå(via north from Stockholm public orschoolholidays). cheaper betweenMondayandThursdaymostweeks(not Mora inDalarna).Fares forjourneysover100kmare 30% as thesouthernhalfofcountry(asfarnorth only serves express.se) Hasthelargest‘nationalnetwork’ofbuses,but The Swedishnationalmotoringassociation Mabi Hyrbilar Mabi International car-hire chains ataround start The national network Motormännens Riksförbund EMERGENCY NUMBERS is anationalcompanywithcompetitive 0771-757575; www.sj.se) Ambulance,fire, police ( (free call) STOCKHOLM % . länstrafik 0771-334444; www.ybuss.se) Dailyjourneys ‘hyrbilar’ ( %

( % 0200-218218; www.swebus –rulesandpricesforcity or 020-110 1000;www.mabirent ‘biluthyrning’ covers mostmain Sveriges Järnväg Sveriges %

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1300; Kungsholmsgatan37; p1100; of elementsatonce. these thatavisitorcaneasilyappreciateenough all tion andfoodoptions,thecityiscompact lonelyplanet.com Sweden. and elsewhere in the website forlocationsinStockholm tomonitors(coinsonly).See from vendingmachines next ience stores andcoffee shops).Vouchersare purchased insidesomeconven- nalen, ArlandaandBromma airports, numerous centrallocations(Centralstationen,Citytermi- at only; perhrSkr19)Achainofrovinginternetkiosks Sidewalk Express the café. h Nine Access Internet Police stations Emergency Card Stockholm Pass SL PublicTransport Discount Cards INFORMATION bridge Centralbron. It’slinkedStan. bythecar-and-pedestrian inhabits thelarge islandtothesouthof Gamla Södermalm, thecity’sfunky,bohemian area, Djurgårdensits between andGamlaStan. Thesmallislandofseums. Skeppsholmen to manyof better-known Stockholm’s mu- istheislandofGamla Stan Djurgården, home thehistoricOldTown.ToeastofStan, Kungsträdgården isalmostnextdoor. part of Norrmalm;thepopular public square isintheeastern tourist office, SwedenHouse, nelbana subwaysalsolinkwiththe these Station); Train (Central subways toCentralstationen and shoppinghubislinked byanetwork of square Torg. knownasSergels Thisbusiness ern centre onthe (Norrmalm)isfocused isbuilton14islands.Themod- Stockholm ORIENTATION centres. offices, manycampinggrounds,hostels,hotels,andSL Available and free travelonpublictransport. fromtourist free sightseeingbyboat Free entrytoover75attractions, 24/48/72hr adultSkr270/420/540,childSkr120/160/190) only. Skr60/180) Coverstransport There’s agoodmixof budget accommoda- Smack inthemiddleof isGamla Stockholm 10am-1am) Computerarea isdownstairsthrough (Map (Map p1100 ; Odengatan 44;perminSkr0.75; % (metro; or T) stations. Thelarge, (metro;orT)stations. busy 401 0100; Torkel Knutssonsgatan20; 401 0100;Torkel

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ins andhostel bedsare alsoavailable atthis kitchen andlaundry,aswellalarge, cheap ment hostel. Ithasgoodfacilities,including Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com offered. yard, plus free internet access.Nobreakfast laundry, lockersa kitchen, sauna, andcourt- andfacilities,including rooms, friendlystaff backpackers. CityBackpackers hasclean popularwith anddeservedly tralstationen &Sat; doubleFri prices Upplandsgatan2A;dmfromSkr210,dSkr560, backpackers.se; Skr145). toAugust, summer annexe with40beds(June Skr200/425/590; 21;dm/s/d www.hostelbedandbreakfast.com; Rehnsgatan metro orbus55. summer (mid-Junetomid-August). Take the (1.5km fromthecitycentre) isopenonlyin most central campingground Stockholm’s campsitesSkr210; Idrottsplats, Fiskartorpsvägen; is openyear-round. from Apriltolate October, whilethehostel the citycentre. Thecamping groundisopen lakesidepleasant location10kmsouthwestof Skr650-850, hosteldm/dSkr160/450; väg;campsitesSkr180-210,4-bedcabin .com; StoraSällskapets Kungliga Slottet(RoyalPalace).. Forex...... (see 57) Forex...... (see 7) Danish Embassy...... CW ScheeleApotek...... Canadian Embassy...... Australian Embassy...... Abbe's HostelStoraNygatan.... Abbe's HostelSkeppsbron...... Storkyrkan...... Stadshustorn...... (see 18) Stadshuset...... Riksdagshuset...... Nobelmuseet...... Nationalmuseum...... Medeltidsmuseet...... Kulturhuset...... Katarinahissen...... Sweden House...... Post Office...... (see7) Police Station...... Netherlands Embassy...... Hotellcentralen...... French Embassy...... Forex...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Östermalms Citycamping Östermalms Camping Bredäng City Backpackers Bed&Breakfast Hostel i STOCKHOLM••Sleeping ; m i

Mp p1100; (Map (

% T-Rådmansgatan) ) About 500mfromCen- 977071; bredangcamping@telia

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B1 D2 D6 A3 B1 D2 B3 C2 C6 B2 B2 C4 B3 C6 C4 C3 C5 D4 B6 B6 A1 B5 A2 Gamla Stan Jazzclub Strömma Kanalbolaget Arlanda Express TRANSPORT SHOPPING Waxholmsbolaget...... Viking Line...... Tallink Office...... Drottningholm&Birka...... Slussen BusTerminal...... Silja Line...... Djurgården Boats...... AirportBuses)...... NK...... DesignTorget...... DesignTorget...... Torget...... Stampen...... Spy Bar...... Mandus...... Lady Patricia...... Kungliga Operan...... Konserthuset...... Strömma KanalbolagetBoatsto Cityterminalen (BusStation,

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able, thisbrickvaultmakes anicehideout pen anditsnext-doorsibling,Kaffekoppen. you’ll findthegay-friendly caféChokladkop- geous buildingsfromthe1650s Renaissance snacks fromSkr35,mainsSkr40-85) Chokladkoppen Stan Gamla andcarts). countless stands dog onabun(Skr12toSkr25,available from med bröd korv grillad quick, inexpensive snack,it’shardtobeata Swedish cooking.Fora cal waystosample and coffee, andit’soneof themosteconomi- bread,includes maincourse, salad, colddrink 11.30amand2pm.Thepriceusually between lunch lunch specialcalled dizzying market halls. konditori miss coffee andcakes inanold-fashioned belly withoutemptyingyourwallet.Don’t holm meansit’susuallypossibletofillyour numberofThe sheer diningchoices inStock- EATING retro architecture throughout. tre, barandwell-preserved café,swankcocktail complex includesavintage 1940smovie thea- pictures of Swedishfilmstars onthe walls.The sandwiches Skr35-75) the outdoorpatioisalwaysbuzzing. insideand drip waxontothickwoodentables runfromonetotheother,candelabras Servers ers, plusgleaminghardwoodfloors andhuge Café Art Art Café Most cafés and restaurants serve adaily Most cafésandrestaurants serve Hotel Hellsten SPLURGE superior rooms themostatmosphere. exposed roofbeams andskylightsgive the friend. Alltherooms are gorgeous, butthe staying atthemanor houseofanartistic décor togive youthe impression you’re eachwithindividually chosenspectacular, pad. The lobby,barandroomsare equally more aposhnightclubthancrash like black hallwayleadingtoreception feels tique hotel issomethingspecial.The long minute youwalkin,knowthisnewbou- from Skr1490/1890,Sat&SunSkr990/1190) 68;s/dMon-Fri www.hellsten.se; Luntmakargatan atafixed price(usuallySkr60toSkr70) (bakery café)oravisittooneof the Mp p1100; (Map Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

Mp p1100; (Map Once hip,butnowcomfort- Mp pp1096-7; (Map % dagens rätt –abasicgrilledhot- 411 7661;Västerlånggatan60; % Inapairof gor- 203170; Stortorget 18; 203170; Stortorget lonelyplanet.com % 661 8600; or dagens The best intown. kebab outlet,oftenno-nonsense cited asthe stomachs of Söder’sintrepid bargoers isthis kebabs &felafelskebabs Skr28-50; pancakes are recommended. full,cooked breakfasts –the holm thatserves the passingparade). with large windowstocapture thesun(and Kungsträdgården isthislongandleancafé deal isgreat value. ian fare fromaroundtheworld.Thelunch meals Skr65-85) inexpensive lunches andpastries. filling, andserves from busyVästerlånggatan lonelyplanet.com from Skr35) Medborgarplatsen. place tograb acheap lunch toeatoutdoors on Sat) Söderhallarna Södermalm about theclientele. room of antiques–andwe’re notjusttalking this traditionalcaféconsistsof roomafter parties of amillionlittleoldSwedish ladies, lunch Skr35-85) perfect placetofillapicnicbasket. andsomeexcellentdiningnooks.It’sthe stalls this covered market gourmetfood hallcontains Sat) Saluhall Östermalms Östermalm meals Skr35-95) Skr35-55) adventure. that’s quick,cheap an andnotnecessarily ameal dayswhenyouneed best forthose torgshallen isthisenormousfast-food court, andMediterraneanstalls fast-food counters. speciality foodshops,baked goods,produce catch. There’s collectionof alsoatantalising theday’sfreshtucked selling awayamidstalls toeatseafood, the bestplacesinStockholm foodhallhidesoneof(for Sweden)basement Hötorgshallen Stockholm Central Hermitage Nystekt Strömming Nystekt Sirap Piccolino Café Kungshallen Jerusalem RoyalKebab Jerusalem Sturekatten A classed-up counterpart toHötorgshallen, A classed-up This functional,modernfoodhallis a good

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Österlånggatan 7) Mälartorget 13) Mälartorget world. Fasching fromaround the fairlybig-name acts attracts .fasching.se; Kungsgatan 63)Well-knownandreliable, Konserthuset invariably inSwedish. original language; theatre performancesare .ticnet.se) box or offices For tickets, thetourist office, theatre contact up thefree pick music performances;foranoverview, dance,operaand hasoutstanding Stockholm &Theatre Concerts theatre torockshows. to-date coverage, entertainment fromsportto holm Free localpublicationslike ENTERTAINMENT areaStan include all persuasions Sunday. every plete withdragshows)thatdrawpartiers of (com- it’sknownforgaynights a nightclub; mooredbeen andconverted nearSlussen into 152) Stadsgårdskajen patricia.se; is thefree monthlymag trict’. Thebestsourceof andinformation sass all bars andclubs,there isnoreal ‘gaydis- Jazzclub Fasching Café Glenn Miller in mid-July. Jazz Festival check forasampler, outthe capital; Live jazzisenjoyingaslow resurgence inthe Music Live Kungliga Operan Teatern Dramatiska Orchestra. includingtheRoyalPhilharmonicmusical events, huset.se; Hötorget)F live shows that even localjazz snobswon’tsneerat. live showsthateven venuefor gatan 21)Thisintimateplaceisthemostlikely and classicalballet. .operan.se; GustavAdolfs Torg)Theplacetogoforopera environment. Nouveau aten) stagesarangeofplaysinfantasticArt Dram- .dramaten.se; Nybroplan)TheRoyalTheatre (aka Lady Patricia Major theatres: Popular gayrestaurant-bars intheGamla Good venues to seek out: Good venues toseek and . Operasare usuallyperformedintheir Nöjesguiden

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ga). passes aren’tpasses validonSLtrains. and atPressbyråCoupons maybepurchased shops two hours of travel, nomatter howfaryougo. coupon (Skr20,or Skr180for10)isgood public transportsystem meansanindividual trainsandSL-runcity’s buses, ferries. Skr60/180), covering transportonanyof the the SLPublicTransportPass (per24/72hours to manyattractions.Acheaper alternative is travel ingreater aswellentry Stockholm, Card. andtheStockholm passes SLtransport plussell issuetimetables, offices ( 7am-11.15pm Sun) oflevel the there are inthelower SLinformationoffices holm county.AtT-Centralen (Map p1100 ) withinStock- trains, localtrainsandbuses .sl.se) Lokaltrafik Storstockholms Transport Public (less often inthelowseason). 20minutesSkr25 andrunevery insummer ferrieswith NybroplanandSlussen; costfrom cityferriesDjurgårdsfärjan linkDjurgården Boat ( p1099 ) forbike-hire information. Activities paths); See andDrottningholm. andKungsholmen(onlakesideLångholmen toSödermalm, loop goingfromGamlaStan paths andtopdaytripsincludeDjurgården; a hasanextensiveStockholm networkof bicycle Bicycle AROUND GETTING internet access,publictoiletsandshowers. 12.30am) county. Stockholm tåg C),asdotheSL (Stockholm stationen arrive anddepartfromCentral- and Narvik Copenhagen, Oslo, Storlien(forTrondheim) (see services p1093 ). Direct trainsto/from isthecentreStockholm forSJ’s national Train change, cafés,lockers andinternet access. good facilities,includingATMs, foreign ex- toferryand buses ports.Cityterminalen has h A newticketing system onStockholm’s ( Card The Stockholm p1095 ) covers The centralhallat (commuter) services thatoperate within (commuter) services 7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pmSat&Sun) 7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, runsall tunnelbana hasrestaurants, shops, lockers, ATMs, station hall tunnelbana andatthe entrances. International rail (

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SWEDEN SWEDEN SWEDEN the archipelago with80beds. msbolaget.se) .se; dmSkr275; ago is Stockholm, andatthe harbourinVaxholm.Stockholm, outside theGrandHôtel onStrömkajen in stay atthe stay cellent swimmingspots;bookinadvanceto 1106 and the castle wasfirst built inthe1540s, crated in1435after 175years of construction as the6thcentury. Thecathedralwasconse- in equal measure.beer commodation. Youcansoakuphistory and a goodexcursion andhasdecentbudget ac- coffee. About itmakes 70km fromStockholm, overyoung peopleandoldbuildingsmeet city inSweden,it’sauniversity townwhere recognisable silhouette. Thefourth-largest domkyrka hugeUppsala’s pinkcastleandprominent % UPPSALA as adaytrip. tion here isexpensive, sothisislandisbest with sailors andday-trippers; accommoda- archipelago. ranked amongthebestrestaurants inthe h hostel popular amongcyclists.Receptionforthe overnight isrecommended. many canbevisited onadaytrip,staying .skargardsstiftelsen.se) to thearchipelago and .stockholmtown.com) for locals.Thewebsite islands isthefavourite destination time-off archipelago andits24,000The Stockholm % STOCKHOLM ARCHIPELAGO the countryside. sion intothesurroundingarchipelago or whether foradaytriporovernight excur- isleavingnot tomiss it– about Stockholm Most localswilltell youthattheonething AROUND STOCKHOLM Utö The mainboatoperatortothearchipel- Each islandhasitsowncharacter,Each andwhile Chi-chi Gamla (Old) Uppsala flourished asearly Gamla (Old)Uppsala 018 /pop191,100 08 May-Sep) , faroutinthesouthernarchipelago, is

AROUND STOCKHOLM •• Stockholm Archipelago AROUND STOCKHOLM••Stockholm ( Waxholmsbolaget % 5042 0315; www.uto-vardshus.se; dmSkr325; 5042 0315;www.uto-vardshus.se; ; timetables are; timetables located atoffices isatthenearbyUtöVärdshus, (cathedral)give itan instantly STF hostel Sandhamn h year-round) hasalarge devoted section isanothergreat resource.

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STF % the cathedral. round, alsonoon-4pmSunlateJun–mid-Aug) 8; .se; Fyristorg living textbook. asa vonLinné(Linnaeus)andused by Carl below thecastlehillwere originallylaidout (admission free; and 3pmJunetoAugust).The dicated. It’sopenbyguidedtouronly(1pm where kingswere ab- enthronedandaqueen in themid-16thcentury, August (includedintheentryfee). guided tours of fromMay GamlaUppsala to and thenearbyarchaeological sites, andhas cient artefacts excavated fromGamlaUppsala Sun Sep-Apr) /olduppsala; adultSkr50; Centre Uppsala Historical a great heathentemple. Themodern cemetery withabout300smallermoundsand be thegraves of pre-Viking kingsandlieina from StoraTorget). Themoundsare to said of themoderncityandwellsignposted (bus2 at beganatthethreeUppsala great grave mounds Sights &Activities 1477 andisScandinavia’s oldest. century. Thecity’suniversity wasfoundedin today’sedificebelongstothe18th although Saffet’s has theworks–burgers,Saffet’s enchiladas, it comes to quicksustenance andcheap food, lounge, andfree internet access. access,agood restaurant dry, wheelchair and Skr 700.There are alsohostel rooms,alaun- expensive place,androoms are discounted to all thetrappingsyou’dnormallyfind inamore this hotel hassomeexcellent-value roomswith Skr1050/1275) gatan 27;hosteldm/s/dSkr250/435/600,hotel s/dfrom Uppsala Hotel Sleeping &Eating Argentus halfof the6th-century the surviving and scientificliterature, theprideof which is and hasadisplayhallwithmapshistorical 5pm Satrest ofyear) 11am-4pm Sunmid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am- 9am-8pmMon-Fri, väg 1;adultSkr20; Gamla Uppsala Gamla 727 2485;adultSkr60) Saffet’s Originally constructed byGustav Vasa Carolina Rediviva Carolina The tourist office tourist (Silver Bible).

( has museum-style exhibitsof hasmuseum-style an- % It looks dull from the outside, but Itlooksdullfromtheoutside,but h Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

h ( 124125; StoraTorget1;meals Skr59) % 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmSatyear- 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, (admission free; h

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h ( % % features hall thestate 11am-5pm May-Aug, noon-3pm 11am-5pm May-Aug, 471 3900;DagHammarskjölds- 274800; www.uppsalatourism

( % Uppsala Slott h 239300; www.raa.se lonelyplanet.com 24hr) Botanic Gardens , 4kmnorth is close to isclose When (Castle;

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indoor market withsomeexcellentoptions between VisbyandbothNynäshamn andbetween for bargain meals, this self-caterer’s delight is delight for bargain meals,thisself-caterer’s There’s apub upstairs. fish andchips,baked andkebabs. potatoes, lonelyplanet.com corners of theisland;tickets at Skr12. start (Skr100/400). fromSkr65/325)andtents(per day/week hall notfarfrom Visby harbour,hires bikes ykeluthyrning.com; Gotlands Cykeluthyrning Around Getting vary –check thewebsite fordetails. Skr220/300 fortheferry/catamaran, butprices departures (three hours). From Oskarshamn there are oneortwodaily or three catamaran). hours byhigh-speed are fromtwo tosixtimesdaily(five hours, Oskarshamn. Departures fromNynäshamn gotland.se) Destination Gotland &Away There Getting ing Swede. also onthelistof holiday- practicallyevery it’s because Book aheadinsummer,though, beauty that’sonUnesco’sWorldHeritage list. leave itsstunningportcityof Visby,awalled the island–that’sifyoucanbepersuaded to a great networkof hostels scattered around churches andprehistoric sites. There’s also theisland’shundreds ofway tosee medieval and campingfree inforests isawonderful dream. Cyclingaroundthemostlyflatisland the money, Gotland isabudget traveller’s Historically rich on andeconomicallyright % GOTLAND from StoraTorget oronDragarbrunnsgatan. SJ trains. Express runsregularly asdoes toStockholm, an hourfornearbyArlandaairport.Swebus Bus801departsatleasttwice Kungsgatan. on isoutsidethetrainstation The busstation &Away There Getting thecathedralandriver.between Kollektiv Trafiken Regular one-wayadulttickets around start To reach take acitybus GamlaUppsala, Saluhallen 0498 /pop57,400 operates carferries year-round

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% ( mid-May–Aug) % 0771-223300; www.destination 214112)

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h 214133; info@gotlandsc runs buses toall runsbuses Mon-Sat) , behind Salu- Agreat north of theringwall(connected byawalk- stop atthis market hallforice cream. but doesn’t bookaccommodation. but doesn’t Visby, andthechoices are legion. tobe thechieftown square pastime in seems Sitting incafésand bars facingtheharbouror Eating &Drinking room insidethecitywalls. private roomsinVisby;you’llpaymore fora s Skr300-350,dSkr440-480) summer. andanoutdoorbarin roomandsauna, TV in converted cells.Facilities includekitchen, near theharbour,thisformerprisonhasbeds Skr200-300; of thewater. just attheedge of Visbyandhaskiller views ing/cycling path),thiscampinggroundis Skr450-650; derstrandscamping.se; campsitesSkr100-175,4-bedcabins advance. around Visbyisindemand;bookwell Moderately pricedaccommodationinand Sleeping it. stuck through miss thedisplayof askullfoundwithhatchet of runestonesandearlygrave findings.Don’t collection inSweden,withanotable museums rest ofyear) Skr60; get. the oldbutsound are allwithinthetownwallsandcontrastwith 40 towers. Theruinsof churches 10medieval eter (3.5km)alongthe Sep-May) Hamngatan 4; to yourheart’scontent. ant tostrollthisgorgeous Hanseatic portcity the OldTown,makingitsafer andmore pleas- mid-May tomid-August cars are bannedin townwalls.From surrounded bymedieval mer, Visby isalabyrinth of cobblestonestreets over bythrongsof partyingSwedeseach sum- taken Like albeitamuseum alivingmuseum, % VISBY Set aside enough timetostrolltheperim- asideenough Set Gotlands Resor Fängelse Vandrarhem Norderstrands Camping The Saluhall 1 0498 /pop21,400 Gotlands Fornsal h canhelpwithmapsandinformation, tourist office tourist 10am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, noon-4pmTue-Sun 10am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, isoneof thelargest andbestregional h h h (Skeppsbron) mid-Apr–mid-Sep) May-Sep) 9am-5pm daily Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri 9am-5pm dailyJun-Aug,10am-4pmMon-Fri

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1107 SWEDEN SWEDEN SWEDEN Österport gate. main square; there are larger optionsoutside of Forex branches in Malmö; allofferof Forex currency branchesinMalmö; exchange. 6am) Cool, industrial-designy internetcafé. 6am) Cool,industrial-designy discounts at other attractions; available from the tourist office. availablefromthetourist discounts atotherattractions; museumsand free entrytoseveral Allows free bustransport, Centralstationen. Post office Card Malmö Forex Dot.Spot Information Malmö centre (Skr70). and No999runsdailytoCopenhagen from airport toCopenhagen (50minutes, Skr120), ( minutes toMalmö centre. centre. Airportcoaches 30to 45 departevery ethnic shops, restaurants andpubs. labour movement. It’snowlinedwithmulti- hood thatplayedastrongroleintheearly get, thefocusof aworking-classneighbour- city centre isthelively square Möllevångstor- Öresund bridge toCopenhagen. Southof the rest of Europebytheimpressive, 7.8km-long wide, walkable avenues. It’sconnected tothe plus acastlecomplex,numerousparksand OldTowncircledbyacanal, well-preserved Malmö isaspretty asitisdynamic, with a % MALMÖ Lund andMalmö keep thingsexciting. steads andtinyred cottages. Vibrantcitieslike rolling fieldsdotted withpicturesque farm- tolook–allgentlyDanish thecountrystarts youget toDenmark,themoreThe closer SOUTHERN SWEDEN live music. andregularoutdoor courtyard,pooltables laid-back mealordrink;there’s abarmenu, into thetownwall,thisisagreat placefora h lunch spot. makessunny courtyard,Rosas awonderful 70) Sun) 1108 % Rosas ICA Malmö airportis30milesfromthecity Bar Effes In a pretty half-timbered house witha house In apretty half-timbered 040 /pop265,000 Wed-Mon) Thissmallsupermarket onthe isright 44 6800) (Centralstationen; SOUTHERN SWEDEN •• Malmö SOUTHERN SWEDEN••Malmö (Stora Torget;

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/museer; Malmöhusvägen; adultSkr40; /museer; Malmöhusvägen; big, bright, cleanandwell-equipped placeis big, bright, this city centre (get amapbefore off), setting after 6pm. after or midnight)Internetcaféopenuntillate;cheaperrates Malmö ThisMonth Inside Centralstationen.Pick uptheuseful,free booklet 10am-2pmSat&SunOct-Apr) 9am-5pmMon-Fri, & Sep, 10am-2pmSat&SunMay Jun-Aug, 9am-6pmMon-Fri, stationen; pool andwood-fired sec- andseparate sauna, from 1898.There’s acold,open-airsaltwater admissionSkr50; www.ribban.se; is thenaturist Out inÖresund, reached bya200m-longpier, There’s alsoan Hjerten atthe Swedish artistslike andSigrid John Bauer Malmö worksbyimportant collection,andsee the royal apartments,see Aug, noon-4pmSep-May). and around galleries, boutiquesandrestaurants. are town.Thehouses the late-medieval now ings around The cobblestone streets andappealingbuild- Sights &Activities Zeze office Tourist _Pallas/; NorraVallgatan 74;sSkr450, d Skr550-695) kitchens. storget. Ithas shared bathrooms andguest tothe cheapclose eateries onMöllevång- inaregularant guesthouse apartmentblock, Södra Förstadsgatan110B;s/d/trSkr315/450/550) of Centralstationen. thebusfrominfront out.Catch worth seeking g 18;dm/s/dfromSkr175/325/460; hostel.com; Backavägen cabins. a large, well-equippedcampinggroundwith with agreat viewof theÖresund bridge. It’s beach about 5kmsouthwest of thecitycentre, Skr150-190, cabinsfromSkr280; Sibbarp Camping Sleeping tions formenandwomen. parkland about 2km westof thecitycentre. Hotel Pallas Hotel Bosses Gästvåningar Malmö STF Vandrarhem ofThe mainmuseums Malmö are in based Ribersborg 21) (Engelbrektsgatan 13;perhrSkr30-44; Wellhidden,about 3.5kmsouthof the h 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pmSat&Sun 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ( is a long sandy beach isalongsandy backed by % Malmöhus Malmöhus

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( % h 350400; www isopposite 11am-5pm mid- Dom- 8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–Aug, shorter hr& to5pmSat&Sunmid-Jun–Aug,8pm Mon-Fri, shorter also available (Skr55). pealing placesintown.Abreakfast is buffet isoneoflunchtime selection, themostap- town without seeing anymoretown withoutseeing thanthetrain minutes away byferry. Many travellers leave the Öresund coastline,withDenmarkonly20 The busyportof Helsingborg isperched on % HELSINGBORG outside thetrainstation. and Malmö leave stopinLund.Buses from Stockholm trainsbetween All long-distance utes); sometrainscontinuetoCopenhagen. departures fromLundtoMalmö (15min- There are andlocaltrain frequent SJ services &Away There Getting special Skr64) to Thaidishesandkebabs. place forreasonably pricedfood,frompasta three bunkstoaroom. inrailwaycarriages inparkland, with sleep set toreachbus station thisunusualhostel. Guests .com; dmfromSkr175) a Skr50fee. fromaroundSkr250perpersonoffice plus Private roomscanbebooked atthetourist Sleeping &Eating Kärnan redevelopment project. restaurants, allpartof asuccessfulharbour to admire apartmentbuildingsand thesleek stroll alongthenorthernwaterfront fromhere plus aconcerthall,restaurant andcafé.Take a museum of the thetransportterminals, houses tan 11;admissionfree; turhus Denmark. booths, gives advicefornewarrivalsfrom closed Sat&SunSep-Apr) hrmid-Jun–Aug, extended to2pmSat&SunMay-Aug, Mon-Fri, First StopSweden closed SunSep–mid-Jun) great parkland. character, qualitybudget accommodationand butit’sanappealingplacewithseaside station, The eye-catchingly modern Ebbas Skafferi Saluhallen STF You can access thesquare tower medieval The 042 /pop84,500

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% ( tourist office tourist and % 107400; www.dunkerskulturhus.com; Kungsga- 107400; www.dunkerskulturhus.com; Thiscourtyardcafé,withagreat 105991; adult/child Skr20/10; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

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h 142820; www.trainhostel Mon-Sat) lonelyplanet.com Dunkers Kul- Dunkers , justnorth h h Agood daily Jun- h 9am-6pm town 9am- , Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com h market overlooks Öresund totheDanishheartland. century castle;theviewfromtop(34m) office. Thetowerisallthatremains of a14th- Aug, Tue-Sun Sep-May) lonelyplanet.com Apoteket Vasan Apoteket Information plenty of options forthebudget traveller. especially ingrey weather. of all,itoffers Best ture gives itawonderfullymoodyatmosphere, coastline inSweden.Thecity’sheavy architec- rounded bysomeof theprettiest stretches of funfor you,it’salsosur-that’s notenough Scandinavia’s park.If biggest amusement andeminently strollable centralboulevard largest feel, an city,hasahip,cosmopolitan sounds like yoo-te-bor), Sweden’s second- Gothenburg (theSwedish name,Göteborg, % GOTHENBURG (GÖTEBORG) travel fromHelsingborg, see p1092 . ferries toDenmarkandOslo; onsea fordetails Gothenburg andOslo. runtodestinationsincluding services distance complex,isthebusterminal.same Dailylong- and alittlesouth,butstillinsidethelevel gen andOslo, plusregional trains. Atground Gothenburg, Copenha- bound forStockholm, SJ trainsthe underground platformsserve The maintransportcentre isKnutpunkten; &Away There Getting is a1950s-stylejointwithkillerjukebox. rockabilly, Ebbas done upinshockingturquoise Knutpunkten. annexes andwoodenhuts.Take bus219from there are three optionsinmodern sleeping sjöbaden. Thevillaandgardensare adelight; centre, is500mfromthebusstopatPål- recommended hostel, 3kmnorthof thecity Dag Hammarskjöldsväg;dmSkr190,dfromSkr440) quality roomsandgoodfacilities. about 200mfromKnutpunkten, hashigh- central hostel, insideanondescriptbuilding .com; Järnvägsgatan39;dm/s/dSkr165/245/370) Vandrarhem Helsingborgs Sleeping &Eating Villa Thalassa Villa Knutpunkten istheterminal forfrequent shouldheadtothe Self-caterers Ebbas Fik 8am-10pm) Pharmacy. 031 /pop475,000

(Drottninggatan 48)

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( % 145850; www.hbgturist h Mon-Sat) ICA super- This This All All Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat,noon-3pmSun) Mon-Fri, until midnight) tram terminus 1, northeast oftown. tram terminus1,northeast Skånegatan, near Nya Ullevi stadium. Skånegatan, nearNyaUllevi ing machines. store atVasaplatsen); vouchersare purchasedfromvend- insidethe7-Eleven (Centralstationen, Landvetterairport, atcentrallocations Skr19) Achainofinternetkiosks original Vikingship. historical collections,includingSweden’sonly Tue-Sun Sep-Apr) adult Skr40,under20yrfree; Göteborg Pass). experiments, butit’snotcheap the tovisit (use Ithasgreatshark tank. displaysandhands-on featuring fromrainforests everything toa huge andimpressive ‘sciencediscovery centre’ h 6450; www.universeum.se;SödraVägen;admissionSkr135-145; website. hours are complex–callaheadorcheck the you toridetheattractionsallday.Opening You canbuyapassforSkr270thatallows of thecity.Leave your stomach atthegate. in aspinningdanceandbreathtaking view top, some83mabove theground,climaxes by itsspaceport-like tower. Theridetothe h Liseberg Sights 10am-2pmSatSep-May); Mon-Fri, splatsen 2 offices Tourist Sidewalk Express Police station Östra Sjukhuset IT-Grottan Pass Göteborg transport. Collect it at tourist offices,hotelsandhostels. itattourist Collect transport. citytoursandpublic to Lisebergandsomecityattractions, The By Liseberg isthestriking (Skr20). toGöteborgdaily fromtheairport central trafik buses terminal (Skr50). Local toNilsEricssona dayfromtheairport (www.flygbussarna.se) runsseveral times 25 milesfromthecitycentre. Flygbuss Göteborg-Landvetter isabout Airport INTOTOWN GETTING variable hr daily May–mid-Aug, Tue-Sun mid-Aug–Apr) hrdailyMay–mid-Aug, variable late Apr-early Oct; Oct; late Apr-early (Main tourist office; tourist (Main Stadsmuseum

( %

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335 , a SWEDEN SWEDEN SWEDEN 1112 0 1 km GOTHENBURG (GÖTEBORG) 0 0.5 miles SOUTHERN SWEDEN••Gothenburg(Göteborg) 36 To Gothenburg A B C D E To Marstrand F ὈὈ City Airport (8km) To Östra (30km) Sjukhuset Götaälvbron Hospital (4km) Gullbergs Lundby Hamngata Strandgata 8 1 Östra Hamngatan mgatan Norra Hamngatan Brunnsparken Stora Ö Lar Mårten Krakowgatan Hamnkanalen Lilla Gullbergsvassgatan Bommen Södra Hamngatan Drottninggatan gatan 25 31 Kruthus ὈὈὈ 37 26 Nils Kyrkogatan Torggatan Ericssons Centralstationen

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Vegagatan

Viktoriagatan Korsvägen Karl Johansgatan 18 39 Skanstorget Liseberg Linnégatan Södra Vägen ὈὈSveagatan ὈὈ ὈὈ 9 gatan lonelyplanet.com August Kobbs Olivedalsgatan Gibraltargatan 4 Oscarsleden 15 20 Sveaplan Klippan Mölndalsvägen Slottsskogsparken

To Botanic 11 ὈὈὈGardens (600m) ὈὈ ing ship museum intheworldandusually ing shipmuseum of thecitycentre, it’sthelargest says float- gardens the ‘lungs’of thecity,andlargest Gothenburg’s southwestis pretty In andpalmhouse. cafés,arosarium Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com and touringexhibitions. Rubens, Van Rembrandt andPicasso) Gogh, and Europeanmasters forworksby (notable Tue-Sun) ( lonelyplanet.com beds. Pricesforalloptionshave aridiculously a widerange of cabins,cottages andhostel town, thisoneisgeared forfamiliesandhas Skr100-325) ( year-round. tle confidencefromtheoutside. Allare open area, in apartment buildingsthatinspire lit- most are clustered inthecentralsouthwest Gothenburg offers exceptionalhostels; several Sleeping Aug, otherwisefree) Trädgårdsföreningen submarine displays 13historicalships,includingthe adultSkr70; huskajen; tive arts. modern Scandinavian designanddecora- Vasagatan 37;adultSkr40; of year,closedSunNov) % % Vandrarhem...... Masthuggsterrassens Hotel Flora...... Göteborgs Vandrarhem...... City Hotel...... Universeum...... Stadsmuseum...... Röhsska Museet...... Liseberg...... Konstmuseet...... Göteborgs MaritimaCentrum..... Tourist OfficeBranch...... (see35) Police Station...... Main TouristOffice...... IT-Grottan...... Apoteket Vasan...... (see35) NOMTO ENTERTAINMENT SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION The mainartcollectionsare at Lisebergs Camping &StugbyarKärralund Camping Lisebergs There are somegreat green including oases, Centrum Maritima Göteborgs The excellent 611000; Götaplatsen;adultSkr40; 840200; www.liseberg.se; Olbergsgatan;campsites , withimpressive collectionsof Nordic inSweden. The closest campinggroundtoThe closest Nordkaparen , laidoutin1842andhometo SOUTHERNSWEDEN••Gothenburg(Göteborg) h , by the opera house north , bytheoperahouse Röhsska Museet Röhsska (entry onNyaAllén;adultSkr15May-

h 10am-6pm May-Aug, to4pmrest 10am-6pm May-Aug, noon-5pm Tue-Sun) . 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 E3 C3 A2 F4 F4 A1 E3 F3 F3 D2 F2 B2 E3 Slottsskogsparken h

( % 11am-5pm or6pm Ölhallen 7:an...... O'Leary's...... Dubliner...... Smaka...... Saluhallen...... Hemköp Supermarket...... (see35) Eva's Paley...... Espresso House...... Den LillaTaverna...... Cyrano...... Crepe Van...... Café Garbo...... Alexandras...... (see 23) Aldardo...... STF VandrarhenSlottsskogen... STF Vandrarhem DRINKING EATING Stigbergsliden......

Konstmuseet 105950; Pack- ( % covers 613850; botanic

the ferries to/fromDenmark.Take tram3,9 www.hostel-gothenburg.com; Stigbergsliden10;dm/s/d www.hostel-gothenburg.com; just southof Liseberg, which isconven- bathroom fromSkr495/595) bergsgatan 6;s/dwithbathroomfromSkr795/995,shared can bediscounted toSkr650andSkr850. a stylish restaurant-café. ground-level Rooms manyofmodernised itsrooms.There’s also fordable hotel hasjustdoubleditssizeand storget 2;s/dSkr990/1195) Getebergsäng. ient forthebigattractions.Take tram4to /500/500) Mölndalsvägen23;dm/s/dfromSkr200 vandrarhem.se; Take tram3,9or11toStigbergstorget. roomandgarden,plusbike hire.laundry, TV Ithasagoodkitchen, house. century seaman’s STF hostel, thistimeinarenovated 19th- Skr180/310/420) (upstairs, behindthesupermarket). or 11toMasthuggstorget andcheck thesigns s/d Skr170/290/440) 10H;dm/ Masthuggsterrassen www.mastenvandrarhem.com; or 2toOlivedalsgatan. hire, andlounge. laundry,sauna Take tram1 with 24-hourreception, breakfast bike buffet, tels, sobookearly.It’safriendly,socialplace, gen isregarded asoneof Sweden’sbesthos- .nu; Vegagatan 21;dm/sfromSkr165/305; Welandergatan. complex schedule of rates. Take tram5to Göteborgs Vandrarhem Göteborgs Stigbergsliden STF Vandrarhem Vandrarhem Masthuggsterrassens Slottsskogen STF Vandrarhem City Hotel Flora Hotel Awell-equipped,well-runplace, 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 B2 B1 B1 E3 B2 E3 D3 C4 C3 C4 E3 B2 C4 B3

( % Anotherwelcoming,well-run

( % Aclean,well-runspotnear Tidpunkten Office...... (see 37) Terminal...... Stena LineGermany Terminal...... Stena LineDenmark Nils EricssonTerminalen...... DFDS Seaways...... Nordstan...... Valand...... Scandinavium...... Nya Ullevi...... GöteborgsOperan...... Göteborgs Stadsteatern...... Göteborgs Konserthus...... Bubbles...... Avenyn 10...... (see28) TRANSPORT SHOPPING 708 4000;www.cityhotelgbg.se; Lorens- 138616; www.hotelflora.se; Grönsak- Ifyouwanttotaste the This comfortable, af- Thiscomfortable, (

% 401050; www.goteborgs ( %

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1113

E3 F3 F2 D1 E3 F3 E3 A4 C3 E1 D1 E2 SWEDEN SWEDEN SWEDEN meze (hors d’oeuvres) perfect forsharing. authentic Greek dishes, plusagreat arrayof complex. supermarket Vasagatan boulevard. hang-outs facingtheleafy comfortable several House Espresso Garbo gravad lax cluding classicssuch asherring,meatballsor Swedish traditional Smaka (meaning‘taste’) serves (Skr75 toSkr95). French àlacarte dishesandsimplerpizzas from Skr155.There’s of alsoaselection good wheretaurant, menuscost three-course set regardedA highly French bistro-styleres- tion onAvenyn. –aninstitu- goodmuffins andseriously salads cluding good-value dishes, in- until late andserving Skr40-65; Skr30-65, mainsSkr69-99) soups andstews. Skr50 –Alexandrasisrenowned foritsGreek eateries where afullmealcostslessthan old market hall.There are alsogreat budget buy ahuge range of delifoodsatthisclassic taglio fastfood–pizza authenticItalian deli sells h crepes hours. fromafternoon untilthewee near McDonald’soffers andsavoury sweet Mon-Thu, &Sat) 4pm-3.30am Fri the hostels) hasmore goodoptions. tomostof (close excellent cafés.Linnégatan tothestudentheartlandandhas isclose tan thaninotherpartsofhigher town).Vasaga- cafés andbars priceshere (although canbe Kungsportsavenyn islinedwithrestaurants, Eating to Skr100. rates reducedsummer discountssee bySkr50 ofdistance Kungsportsavenyn. Weekend and nightlife, thisisforyou–it’swithinstumbling 1114 Eva’s Paley Eva’s Saluhallen Van Crepe Self-caterers shouldheadtothe Self-caterers For aquicksnackwhileyoustroll, Smaka Cyrano Den LillaTaverna Aldardo Mon-Sat)

( (by the slice) and pasta dishes. (bytheslice)andpasta SOUTHERN SWEDEN••Gothenburg(Göteborg) % h panini,

774 1925;Vasagatan 40;specials fromSkr45) husmanskost (

( Right bythetouristoffice, thisbusy Right ( % % % until 11pm) (cured salmon).

(Linnégatan; crepes Skr25-45; ( (Kungstorget; ( 132247; Vasaplatsen 3;mainsSkr89-195) h

143010; Prinsgatan 7;mainsSkr75-200) 143010; Prinsgatan % 132300; Kungstorget12;snacksSkr25-55; ( % baked potatoes, pasta dishes, pasta baked potatoes, 8am-10pm) 163070; Kungsportsavenyn 39;meals 163070; Kungsportsavenyn (

39750; Vasagatan 22) % Ahuge cornerplaceopen Awelcomingplacewith 128805; Olivedalsgatan17;meze (homecooking),in- h This takeaway van This takeaway inthe Nordstan Mon-Sat) are twoof Youcan h Hemköp 4-10pm and Café al

of long-gone barflieshauntthewallsof this many Europeancities. stadiums, contact contact stadiums, chestra, thisisattheotherendof Avenyn. any nightclub ever had. any nightclubever platsen) Stadsteatern Göteborgs Entertainment guarding thedoor. pairofGreek statues andhilarious imposing architecture music hallblendingsillyandsophisticatedwithits Valand Bubbles Avenyn 10 life. Somehighlights: Kungsportsavenyn istheplacetogofornight- Clubbing screens andbarsnacks. sports barwithTV posite theDubliner,thisisanAmerican-style in summer. on theContinent,withlive musicnightly is asauthenticanIrish pubasyou’llfind will. never changed inabout 100years andhopefully whichwell-worn Swedish hasn’t beerhall, savenyn andtake yourpick. For more choices, strolldownKungsport- Drinking tre, byRyanair. used minor airport 10kmnorthwest of the citycen- (code GSE; airport vetter Twenty-five kilometres eastof thecity, AIR &Away There Getting dinavium.se) for footballmatches and include door stadiums cal performances. which stages ballet,operaandassorted musi- atLillaBommenharbour, ing operahouse It’s worthinvestigating what’sonatthisstrik- Götaplatsen) in Swedish)attheStadsteatern. of Avenyn fordramaticperformances(usually clubs intown. GöteborgsOperan Konserthus Göteborgs O’Leary’s Dubliner Ölhallen 7:an Gothenburghers are avid sportsfans.Out- Culture vultures shouldheadtotheend (cnr Kungsportsavenyn &Vasagatan) Vintage (cnr Kungsportsavenyn (Kungsportsavenyn 8) As descriptive anameas 8)Asdescriptive (Kungsportsavenyn % (Kungsportsavenyn 10-12)Oneofthebiggest (Kungsportsavenyn Hometothelocalsymphonyor- foricehockey. onboth Fordetails

( ( Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com % 926060; www.goteborgcityairport.se) %

(code GOT;

( 139020; ÖstraHamngatan50B) % 711 5519;ÖstraHamngatan36) (

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(City Theatre; 131300; Christina Nilssonsgata) 131300; Christina

(Concert Hall; (Concert Gothenburg CityAirport Gothenburg Nya Ullevi 941000) Scandinavium

lonelyplanet.com ( has services to hasservices % %

(www.ullevi.se) 811020) % 615050; Göta- Portraits (www.scan 726 5300;

This . Op- isa Land-

Ericson Terminalen)Ericson .se) tickets forcityandregional publictransport. Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com express.se) most major to/ towns.There are services and the UK, see and theUK,see p1092 . andfares toDenmark,Germany ferry services terminals. Formorewith several of details Gothenburg isamajor entrypointforferries, BOAT lonelyplanet.com paradise for natureparadise lovers whoenjoy hiking, landscape consistsof green deep forest. It’sa outnumber cars ontheroads,andmuch of the that matter, much of Reindeer anyone else. aren’t thetour-bus likely tosee crowd–or,for Norrland isremote thattravellers enough here SWEDEN NORTHERN of theGöteborg Pass travel free. Skr100) reduce thecostconsiderably. Holders port ticket costsSkr20.‘Value cards’(Skr50to Anindividualtrans- from Centralstationen. all converging nearBrunnsparken, oneblock in Gothenburg isbytram.There are 11lines, ken. Theeasiestwaytocover lengthydistances nalen, onDrottningtorget andatBrunnspar- information booths insideNilsEricsonTermi- public transportsystem; there are Tidpunkten tramsandferriesBuses, make upthecity Around Getting hourly. departapproximately toStockholm services trains travel tothefarnorth.Direct train in thesouthernhalfof Sweden.Connexnight plusotherdestinations Oslo andStockholm, with direct trainstoMalmö, Copenhagen, SJ andregional trains, serves Centralstationen TRAIN and up tosixdaily). (Skr160/225 concession/fullprice,3½hours, price, sixhours, upto10daily)andOslo (Skr250/360concession/full from Stockholm and SwebusExpress share here. anoffice Eurolines nalen, isnexttoCentralstationen. NilsEricsonTermi-The modernbusstation, BUS There’s a Svenska Buss Svenska Swebus Express alsorunonthemajor routes. Säfflebussen operates frequent to/from buses Tidpunkten office , which gives adviceandsells

( % NORTHERN SWEDEN••Östersund NORTHERN

( %

0771-676767; www.svenskabuss.se) ( % 0771-151515; www.safflebussen 0200-218218; www.swebus

( % 0771-414300; Nils nections to Finland. population andthebusyport hasferry con- university meansthere’s asizable young ofamid thequietexpanses Norrland.Alarge Umeå isabig,bustling townthatsticksout % UMEÅ andGävle. viaUppsala run fromStockholm bus 63runsnortheasttoUmeå.Direct trains on Gustav IIITorg. Bus156runstoÅre and centre, themainregional iscentral busstation isashort walksouthofThe trainstation the &Away There Getting anexcellent-value lunch buffet. serves and anoutdoorpatio,thisgourmetplace dinner Tue-Sat) lunch Skr70,dinnermainsSkr140-200; Jamtli precinct. museum traction: thissmall,quainthostel isinsidethe chance tolive amongÖstersund’s major at- jamtli.com; dm/s/dSkr185/280/380; Jamtli STF Vandrarhem Sleeping &Eating bikes, inlineskates andcanoes). from Badhusparken –nearbyyoucanhire the middleof Östersund (thefootbridge is of Frösön,reached byroadorfootbridge from andalargemuseum village. museum combines thelively exhibitionsof theregional Mon Sep-May) admission Skr60-90; from JunetoSeptember. monster-spotting Askone blockfromthebusstation. about Sep-May) Aug, Mon-Fri Rådhusgatan44; .turist.ostersund.se; of Norrland.The cellent gateway townforfurtherexplorations and isarelaxed andscenicplace,anex- monster, hasgoodbudget accommodation chilly waters tolurkararely issaid sighted Storsjön, townbyLake inwhose This pleasant % ÖSTERSUND than properhotels. leaning more towardscampingandhostels modation tends tobebudget-friendly, too, skiing andotheroutdooractivities.Accom- Brunkullans Krog&Bar Brunkullans Don’t miss Some attractionslieontheadjacentisland 090 /pop105,000 063 /pop58,400 , 1kmnorthof thetowncentre. It A classy eatery with friendly staff Aclassyeatery withfriendlystaff Jamtli h isopposite thetownhall, lake cruises lake tourist office tourist 11am-5pm dailyJun-Aug, closed

( ( % %

( 122060; vandrarhemmet@ 150100; www.jamtli.com; 150100; www.jamtli.com; % h (Skr65toSkr95) 101454; Postgränd5; g

( h 9am-5pm dailyJun- % 2) lunch Mon-Fri, lunch Mon-Fri, Take the the Take 144001; www

1115 SWEDEN SWEDEN SWEDEN net access.The good museums. good museums. east of thetowncentre, ishometoseveral h riding, rock-climbingandfishing inwarmer tural tours year-round; rafting,hiking,horse range variousactivities,includingSamicul- brochures canar- andinternet access.Staff (and inwinter that’s nothing–outside the warm despite the–5ºC to–8ºCtemperatures tokeep bagsguaranteed them inside sleeping on bedscoveredsleep with reindeer skinsand has more than60‘hotel rooms’,where guests a barandexhibitionsof icesculpture. Italso This huge, custom-built ‘igloo’hasachapel, tonnes of icetaken fromthefrozen localriver. 18km eastof Kiruna,astructure isbuiltfrom Skr2800; dayvisitadult Skr130;rfrom Jukkasjärvi; Marknadsvägen, visit tothe inwinter.safaris weather; anddogsleddingsnowmobile Sat &Sun,Mon-Satrest ofyear) .se; LarsJanssonsgatan17; ber andtheNewYear. there’s Decem- abluish darknessthroughout sunlastsfrom27Maynight to14July and and trekking routes. Thisfarnorth,themid- finenationalparks made fromice,andseveral peak(Kebnekaise,highest 2111m),ahotel The region around Kiruna includesSweden’s % KIRUNA Luleå. and Stockholm north–south trainsbetween leave dailyfromUmeåtoconnectwiththe include Östersund andLuleå.Connextrains inNorway;otherdailydestinations i Rana regional busnetwork.Direct runtoMo buses for the towncentre. Umeåisthemaincentre justnorthof onJärnvägsallén, train station isopposite the busstation The long-distance &Away There Getting central location. precisionwith militaristic andhasagreat hemmet.se; VästraEsplanaden10;dm/dSkr210/420) mid-Jun–mid-Aug, rest ofyear) Mon-Fri 15; Renmarkstorget 1116 STF Vandrarhem Umeå STF Vandrarhem The The helpful One highlight of atripthisfarnorthis One highlight daily Jun-Aug, Tue-Sun rest ofyear) 0980 /pop23,900 Länstrafiken Västerbotten Länstrafiken SWEDEN DIRECTORY ••Accommodation SWEDEN DIRECTORY tourist office tourist g 501) Ice Hotel Ice Hotel . Every winter atJukkasjärvi, tourist office tourist h Gammlia Gammlia 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to4pmSat&Sun 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, (

% h

( % 161616; www.umea.se/turism; 161616; www.umea.se/turism;

hasloadsof detailed 8.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, to6pm 8.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, ( ( % % 66800; www.icehotel.com; ( %

(

171800; admissionfree; % 771650; info@vandrar 18880; www.lappland complex,2km hasfree inter- 020-910019) isrun , the patio tocatch thelate sunshine. with steak orpasta. There’s agoodoutdoor local specialitieslike reindeer, orplayitsafe andlivelytaurant drinkingspot,youcantry mains Skr69-189) The small &Away There Getting comfy hostel hasanicegardenarea. ineach room,this kitchen, laundryandTV budget option,withfacilitiesincludingsauna, 25;dm/s/dSkr150/300/400) Hantverkaregatan restaurant.jacent Chinese andanad- good facilities(includingsauna) dm/s/d Skr205/345/470) Kiruna STF Vandrarhem Sleeping &Eating warm clothing. a barandicesculptures; entryfee includes features of theIceHotel remain, including 5pm Jun–mid-Aug) called the of themagic.Insideagiantfreezer warehouse away, dayvisitors canstillexperiencealittle (weather permitting). normally openmid-Decembertolate April hotel itcanbeaslow–30ºC!).Thehotel is August. Prices vary,from Skr80forabasic the best time forcamping isfromMay to Sweden hashundreds of camping grounds; Camping .stuga.nu) price (Skr200toSkr800).Check and families,range inbothfacilities and countryside) offer good valueforsmallgroups often foundatcampinggroundsorinthe for rates Daily &Chalets Cabins ACCOMMODATION SWEDEN DIRECTORY ontheNorwegianborder.Riksgränsen all major Bus91runsdailyto settlements. svägen, serve opposite thetownhall.Buses onHjalmarfrom thebusstation Lundbohm- ated by to/fromStockholm. town, hasflights Regional buses inthisvastregionRegional buses are oper- Yellow House 3nd Baren In summer,after theIceHotel hasmelted forinformation. Länstrafiken Norrbotten Länstrafiken Ice Hotel Art Center Art Ice Hotel airport

( % Atthismoderately pricedres- , atatemperature of –5ºC,some

66380; Föreningsgatan 11;lunchSkr65, stugor (code KRN;

( % Thiscentralhostel has (

13750; www.yellowhouse.nu; % (cabinsandchalets, 17195; Bergmästaregatan 7; %

(adult Skr120; 68000) lonelyplanet.com

( % , 9kmeastof Stuga 020-470047) Agood h

(www 10am-

swimming pool,minigolf,bike and/orcanoe lar familyholidayspotswiththeworks– and laundryfacilities,manyare popu- ards. Mostcampinggroundshave kitchens stand- camp site toSkr200forthehighest lonelyplanet.com tional parks is compelling. However, these these tional parks iscompelling. However, challengethe mountain of thenorthernna- Hiking ispopulareverywhere inSwedenand Hiking Do notdisturbfarmanimalsorreindeer. allgates. open landoronprivate roads.Close maynotbedrivenwith fallenwood.Cars across fires where maybeset safe (notonbare rocks) for more place,and inthesame thanonenight fenced areas andcultivated land.Youcan camp andkeep outofleast 70mfromhouses gardens, at or swimonprivate landaslongyoustay Sweden, bylaw,you’re allowedtowalk,boat,ski tryside (called ofand ice. Theright publicaccesstothecoun- rivers andlakes, trails,andthesnow mountain year-round, onbike paths, forest tracks, jogging Swedes are huge nature lovers andare active ACTIVITIES ble (upto50%cheaper thanregular prices). rates, often belowSkr800foraluxuriousdou- end andsummer(mid-Junetomid-August) upscale hotelseven provide good-value week- There are few budget hotels inSweden,but Hotels you withanentrycode. (usually short)reception hours; they’llprovide duringthe to phoneandmake areservation outside reception openingtimes.Thesecret is facilities are of similartothose theSTF. 553450) iFörening Vandrarhem Sveriges nonmembers. adult/child). Inthischapter welistpricesfor hostels (membership costsSkr285/110per orcanjoinupat pay Skr45extrapernight Hostelling International (HI).Nonmembers % are with affiliated hem); Sweden hasnearly500hostels Hostels .se) hire, restaurant etc.Visit Around 160hostels belongtothe‘rival’ forinformation. Hostels in Sweden are toget into difficult 08-463 2100;www.svenskaturistforeningen.se) mostare excellent.Some320hostels . Nomembership isrequired; rates and ‘allemansrätten’ SWEDEN DIRECTORY ••Activities SWEDENDIRECTORY Svenska Turistföreningen Svenska Camping.SE ) means that in ) meansthatin

(SVIF; (www.camping (vandrar-

% , partof 0413- (STF;

ski fields. Sat &SunJun-Aug Östermalmsgatan 97) many restaurants are closedSundayorMonday. Gärdesgatan 9-11) USA UK Norway Netherlands Ireland Germany France Finland Denmark Canada Australia Stockholm. The followingdiplomaticmissions are in inSweden Embassies &Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES undereach cityfordetails. sections theInformation See needs. most sightseeing Malmö, which cover alllocaltransport and major citiesof Gothenburg and Stockholm, There are discountcardsavailable inthe DISCOUNT CARDS offices Tourist Shops Restaurants Bars BUSINESS HOURS .thealps.com) websites marked skiingtracks,often illuminated. The cally alltownareas (exceptthefarsouth)have inDecemberandJanuary).daylight Practi- from DecembertoApril(butnotalotof but thenorthwestusuallyhasplentyof snow vary dependingonsnowandtemperatures, Cross-country (nordic) skiing opportunities Skiing left). lar trailslike STF Kungsleden,contact (see averaging about 20kmalongpopu- intervals and STF huts,which mountain are placedat equipment isvital. Sarek, isonlyforexperiencedhikers. Good parks are rarely snow-free andthejewel, Torg 12) Dag Hammarskjöldsväg 31) Mp pp1096-7; (Map For informationonorganised groupwalks (Map (Map pp1096-7 ; h (Map p1100 ; h Mp p1100; (Map (Map pp1096-7 ; pp1096-7; (Map Mp pp1096-7; (Map Mp pp1096-7; (Map 5pm-1am (Map pp1096-7 ; (Map (Map p1100 ; Mp p1100; (Map 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, Go Ski have reviews of useful theSwedish Mp p1100 ; (Map h h Lunch 11.30am-2pm,dinner6-10pm;

(www.goski.com) % % 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, plus10am-2pm 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, % % % 08-459 5300;Kommendörsgatan13) % 08-671 3000; Skarpögatan 6-8) 08-671 3000;Skarpögatan 08-453 3000;7thfl,Tegelbacken 4) % % 08-783 5300; % % % 08-613 2900; 11th fl, Sergels 08-613 2900;11thfl,Sergels 08-406 7500;JakobsTorg1) 08-665 6340; Skarpögatan 4) 08-665 6340;Skarpögatan 08-676 6700; 08-661 8005; 08-5569 3300;Götgatan16A) 08-670 1500; Skarpögatan 9) 08-670 1500;Skarpögatan and The Alps The

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(www SWEDEN SWEDEN SWEDEN 1118 early August. drinking, singinganddancingaroundmaypoles. drinking, seasonbyeating, gather tocelebratetheall-too-brief DayiswhenSwedes oftheyear,Midsummer’s gest party 377 Dalhousie St, Ottawa ONK1N9N8) 377 DalhousieSt,Ottawa Midsummer’s Day Midsummer’s Whit Sunday &Monday Day Ascension Labour Day Monday toEaster Good Friday Epiphany New Year’s Day HOLIDAYS for equalitylesbiansandgays. 7 ; Likaberättigande det förSexuellt which grantmostmarriage rights. ‘registeredlaws allowsame-sex partnerships’, Sweden isfamousforitsliberalattitudesand GAY &LESBIANTRAVELLERS Week) (Medieval Medeltidsveckan JazzFestival Stockholm Day Midsummer’s early June. påStockholm Smaken Vasaloppet FESTIVALS &EVENTS USA UK Norway New Zealand Netherlands Ireland Germany France Finland Denmark Canada Australia Abroad Swedish Embassies&Consulates Nobels gate 16, NO-0244 Oslo) Nobels gate16,NO-0244 /copenhagen; SanktAnnæPlads15A,DK-1250 CopenhagenK) .com/berlin; Rauchstrasse 1,10787Berlin) .com/berlin; Rauchstrasse Pohjoisesplanadi7B,00170Helsinki) /helsinki; .org.au; 5Turrana St,Yarralumla 2600) ACT /washington; Ste900,1501MStNW,WashingtonDC20005) .com/thehague; Jan Willem Frisolaan 3,2517JSDenHaag) .com/thehague; JanWillemFrisolaan 13th fl, Vogel Bldg, Aitken St,Wellington) 13th fl,VogelBldg,Aitken 11 MontaguPl,LondonW1H2AL) /dublin; 13-17DawsonSt,Dublin2) F-75007Paris) 17rueBarbet-de-Jouy, .com/paris; % ( ( % % 08-457 1300;Sveavägen57-59,Stockholm) ( SWEDEN DIRECTORY ••Festivals &Events SWEDEN DIRECTORY ( ( ( 020-7917 6400; www.swedish-embassy.org.uk; 020-7917 6400;www.swedish-embassy.org.uk; ( % % 202-467 2600;www.swedenabroad.com % % ( % ( ( 6January % % % 01 44188800;www.swedenabroad In MoraonthefirstSundayinMarch. 1 May 01-474 4400;www.swedenabroad.com 613-241 8553;www.swedishembassy.ca; ( 09-6877 660;www.swedenabroad.com 24 114200;www.swedenabroad.com/oslo; ( 33 360370;www.swedenabroad.com % 02-6270 2700;www.embassyofsweden 030-505060; www.swedenabroad % May/June (39th day after Easter) (39thdayafter May/June 1January 070-412 0200;www.swedenabroad First 21June. Saturday after First 21June.Thebig- Saturdayafter 04-499 9895;[email protected]; Held in Stockholm late May to lateMay HeldinStockholm Held in Stockholm mid-July. HeldinStockholm Late May orearlyJune. Late May March/April

(RFSL; Map (RFSL; Map pp1096- In Visby,Gotland, Riksförbun- works by thecountrycodeandlocalarea code. call, dial trip-planning guide. trip-planning For international directory dial assistance phone isexpensive andnotrecommended. plan ahead).Using yourcredit cardatapublic butscarceoutinthecountry,so in Stockholm phones take Telia phonecards(readily available There are almostnocoinphones;publictele- the numberof publicphoneshas dwindled. About 70%of Swedes ownamobile phone,so TELEPHONE faretaxi (particularlyifthere’s luggage). tip about10%inarestaurant orroundupthe fares, billsandtaxi taurant butit’scommon to notes are 20,50,100,500and1000kronor. are 50öre andone,five and10kronor, (prices are roundedtothenearest 50öre). Coins Swedes speakingEnglish, isdividedinto100öre The Swedishkrona,usuallycalled‘crown’by MONEY Local The Stockholmtown RESOURCES INTERNET Day Boxing Day Christmas All Saints’Day Its website isfullof information. useful and workorresidencytions for visas permits. SE-60170Norrköping) sverket.se; is partof p1200). theSchengen zone (see embassies (allowatleasttwomonths). Sweden are onlyavailable inadvancefrom Swedish countries require forentry;these touristvisas African, Asian European andsomeEastern holiday visa. Citizensof SouthAfricaandother holders canalsoqualifyforaone-year working passport- Young AustralianandNewZealand foruptothreeSweden withoutavisa months. andtheUScan enter in andstay land, Canada ofmits forstays three months tofive years. indefinitely, butothers require residence per- andwork tion card.Nordicnationalscanstay Sweden withapassportornationalidentifica- EU, NorwegianandIcelandiccitizenscanenter VISAS % Migrationsverket charges are usuallyincludedinres-Service For international callsdial Passport-holders fromAustralia,NewZea- 118119 (notafreecall). Toplaceacollect (www.thelocal.se) % 26December 020-0018. 25December Saturday, late October orearlyNovember.Saturday, lateOctober (www.stockholmtown.com)

( %

011-156000; www.migration Swedish newsinEnglish. handlesallapplica- lonelyplanet.com % 00 followed

A good lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake

1119 SWEDEN