<<

Crown of the Continent: The Living Heritage IN THE STEVEN GNAM

GEOLOGIC GRANDEUR top a snow-dusted peak in October, a friend and I hear an bugle. Scanning meadows below with For millions of years, ancient sea- variety of plants and animals. Transboundary Flathead E-3 Triple Divide Peak F-5 d’Oreille stories, can be seen beds were twisted, folded, and lifted Unbounded by dams, dikes, or Get an early start for a long day-hike to in huge ripple marks in Camas Prairie. binoculars, I spot instead a silver-tipped , D-3 diversions, this meandering flood- this three-faceted jeweled spire, divid- A by the tectonic crush of Pacific and Prepare for bracing winds at adjoining Wilderness plain ecosystem is known as the ing Rocky Mountain waters among the fl exing its massive shoulder hump to excavate glacier lilies. North American plates. Successive lakes where clashing Pacific and Arctic Areas I-4 “This is his place,” my friend says. “He owns this country.” North Fork Flathead in Saskatchewan River’s amble to Hudson ice ages then plowed through rela- air masses funnel through a mountain and simply as the Flathead in Bay, the Missouri-Mississippi’s slide to Rugged hikers scale ragged peaks Indeed, while we have eliminated grizzlies in so many tively soft limestone layers to carve gap along the Continental Divide, caus- . Grizzly bears, the Gulf of Mexico, and the Columbia’s jutting 7,000 feet (2,134 meters) places, a robust population freely roams the Crown of the river valleys, leaving behind dark ing abrupt transitions in tree species, , and radiate plunge to the Pacific Ocean. above valley floors in adjoining wil- forests and deep pockets of fresh wildflowers, and birdlife. Water from from this wild, remote valley. derness areas managed by the U.S. Continent, from mountaintops and plunging valleys to Dinosaur Center H-7 flows east to Hudson Venture on these rough roads with Forest Service and Confederated water that endure today as glaciated See hatchling bones from a fossil nest fescue prairies and cedar rain forests. Bay. Adjacent empties spare tires and a patient attitude. Salish and Kootenai Tribes. Portions Think of these magnifi cent bears as wary sentinel of lakes. The prairie meets the moun- westward toward the Pacific Ocean. and join in active dinosaur digs along of the tribal wilderness are closed to tains at dramatic escarpments along The Nature Conservancy of Montana’s Rocky Mountain Front. humans when grizzlies congregate to change. For millennia they watched over people who Coal Mine Tours C-2 and D-3 the Rocky Mountain Front where ’s Front E-4 feed on alpine insects. Chill in the Bellevue Underground Mine Glacial I-3 honored their power. The Ktunaxa called to the bear spirit THE CHINESE WALL, MT Prairie and mountain ecosystems ranchers and conservationists have STEVEN GNAM 1 During the last ice age, 13,000 where the tunnel’s breeze stays a con- clasp like fingers where ranches bor- J-6 for guidance and protection, while Blackfoot traditions joined to protect vast expanses for to 15,000 years ago, an ice dam in a stant 7°C (45°F). Or visit enormous collapse that buried 90 sleeping resi- der the national park. A visitor centre The massive limestone cliffs of tell of the Medicine Grizzly who rescues and nourishes a restored populations of wildlife. narrow canyon in northern Idaho periodi- open-pit coal mines, still active in dents, drive the unpaved track through and nature trail at Waterton Springs Scapegoat Mountain anchor the cally gave way, releasing raging torrents young boy. Explorers David Thompson, Meriwether Lewis, Weather systems converge over , B.C. the rubble, running west from the main Campground describe how cowboys and Chinese Wall, a geologic reef in the from a 2,000-foot-deep (610 meters) lake and William Clark learned the ancient wisdom of mutual these mountains—Pacific, arctic and Hillcrest access road. See the full pan- environmentalists conserve grasslands Complex. The D-3 in . The legacy of these continental—magnifying the value orama of the 1903 disaster from the for livestock and wildlife. Scapegoat was added to the “Bob” respect the hard way. After several violent confronta- For an intimate view of the mountain Frank Slide Interpretive Centre. floods, which are recalled in Salish-Pend through citizen advocacy in 1972. tions, provoked by nonlethal musket fi re, en route to these of many geologic niches for a great mountains, Lewis determined to live and let live: “I fi nd 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 2 EXPLORERS AND PIONEERS 22X 901 that the curiossity of our party is pretty well satisfyed with 116° K R 115° 114° 113° 11870 ft Mt. Assiniboine 2A E 3618 m Bo rispect to this anamal.” (Mokinists w CA 1 is Sis i) NA Decades before the appearance of [Elbow tachta DI Riv AN WAY From their silent perches, grizzlies witnessed the fi rst er] PACIFIC RAIL fur traders, missionaries and discov- K K trains cross Crowsnest and Marias Passes, followed by o 11175 ft S erers, their impact arrived as waves A o o 3406 m KMt. Sir Douglas he EOkotoks A t ep e settlers to populate the , and o n 40 of disease decimated native popula- a EBlack y Lower Kananaskis Diamond Flathead and Elk Valleys. By the turn of the 20th century, tions on the plains and in mountain E t 24 C Lake o Radium Hot Springs l e Upper Kananaskis the bear’s outlook dimmed as wildlife was slaughtered valleys. Westside tribes tolerated u Lake O m E n 22 High River 23 early trading posts and religious b i 2 across the continent. Here, however, grizzlies persevered a C Frank Lake a K los E ed in E missions, although the Blackfoot Invermere 11250 ft Mt. Joffre w Longview into a new era of wildlife restoration, wilderness desig- 3429 m in y t nations were less accommodating er Lake Windermere Whiteway 541 Bar U Ranch National nation, and cross-border stewardship. Today, they are a K Historic Site McGregor on the east slopes. Military forces d Lake Windermere Lake 9128 ft o R Mt. Head 2782 m o C source of fi erce local pride and the namesake of many w O Columbia W played both sides of the new order, igh Wetlands a H B businesses and festivals. E O subduing pockets of Indian resis- Y

Fairmont Hot Springs n B C T B As the great silvertip disappears into the forest that tance while restraining whiskey trad- R

Courcelette Peak K A I g 9987 ft L TRANSBOUNDARY FLATHEAD, BC AND MT BORDER

ers who exploited social breakdown. Columbia 3044 m ( GARTH LENZ bright October afternoon, I am the observer, humble and h i Lake e C s E 93 ’ k t Champion ( akisqn uk) l O o The wholesale slaughter of native N r

grateful that such a place may yet be found. E i

c Map Key 95 [Two Lakes] White T

( I r

G N Travers

F o

R E

wildlife, especially , and the E u 23 E o N Reservoir Cross-country ski area

Canal Flats t r A

T L e

Whiteswan Lake T L d ) ttl A i

i e Bow

D

i v — Steve Thompson, writer, Whitefi sh, MT introduction of cattle and railroads er (Ka intak) L E i n I Historical site

s [no known translation] g V D i n s I Carmangay Josephine Falls D IV g solidified the transition to a new u E ID Museum ) s L A 3-km (2-mi) stroll leads to a 25-m (83-ft) E t 2 o P 112°W GRIZZLY BEAR society with a different economy. tumble of foaming water set in a secluded canyon K n Natural or scenic area DENNIS DONOHUE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM o E e EClaresholm 50°N r 50°N Outdoor recreation BRITISH c W Barons E Bar U Ranch National Historic Site B-3 Tornado il K Oldman u l World Heritage site Mountain 10167 ft (Napiotsistachtai) o Keho L. The Bar U Ranch spills eastward from Elk 3099 m p w COLUMBIA [Old Man’s River] C i C (Mo kins sti) Tribal name C Top of the World (Natokiokos Sistachtai) re 36 LOCATION AND VISITOR INFORMATION the across the roll- n e 93 Provincial Park k Kootenay , [Two Medicine Lodges River] e E [] Tribal name translation ing grasslands of Alberta’s Highway 22 95 (Wu u aqlsmaknik akinmituk) E Nobleford ld [River Water People] Granum O m L a w H n Adminstered by UNESCO, the World Heritage REGIONAL AIRPORTS TOURISM RESOURCES Cowboy Trail. Transport yourself to an (Sqlsewlk~ ) e i 118° Longitude West 116° of Greenwich 114° 112° s Valley v 3 List recognizes the most significant cultural

E i b [Kootenai Waters] r 22 i Alberta Birds of E b12 E n International Airport Coronation Travel Alberta E o k Sunset Ridge l and natural treasures on the planet. E era when horse-drawn chuck wagons Wasa e Taber Innisfail Consort H g 3 Prey Centre e Ski Trails Y l 52° s Albers Conic Equal-Area Projection Kimberley Nordic r Kinbasket d

b93 l s YYC travelalberta.com t Mud L. See wild raptors between

followed cattle drives on sprawling, C Lake E i ECoalhurst Olds Club Coal Mine Tours o Standard Parallels 47° and 50° Hanna ESparwood E rescue and release. BANFF a E Crowsnest n C a2 Calgary, Alberta open-range ranches staked by investors W The Fort (Museum of the Horsefly L. SCALE 1:1,077,000 o a9 Kimberley KMountain e Fort Macleod E Coaldale l b21 Kootenay Rockies Tourism E ELethbridge Reservoir 20 Allison-Chinook Cross Country North West Mounted Police) 0 mi u NATIONAL 9138 ft Chin Lakes yyc.com E Sullivan Mine Interpretive Centre R South Livingstone (Sik-ooh-kotok) m a1 YOHO ELake Louise Drumheller in Montréal. Ski Trails 2785 m b R a PARK kootenayrockies.com Ride open railcars into rock tunnels where Raptor Watch Site Main Street Fort Macleod [Black Coal] 20 ia GoldenE NAT. Airdrie E ed . 0 km GLACIER Cochrane D miners demonstrate theirE trade underground. bPARK BanffE E e BAR U RANCH, AB Crowsnest Pass Provincial Historic Area NAT. 95 G e 3 Crowsnest CONSULTANTS: DORAN DEGENSTEIN, FORT WHOOP-UP Glacier Park International PARK E Strathmore r DEB PIGEON / E Fort Steele E Canmore a1 E E b36 Alberta SouthWest Regional Alliance Fort Steele Heritage Town Visit Alberta's oldest theatre—the Empress— NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE (WHOOP-UP TRAIL ROUTE); KOOTENAY Pass Oldman Revelstoke Calgary Wycliffe E 3 for films, performing arts, and daily tours. 4 ANDREAS N. KORSOS, ARCTURUS CONSULTING (DAVID Airport FCA/GPI NATIONAL 95A Frank Slide Lundbreck River Res. E albertasouthwest.com Cranbrook History E ) THOMPSON ROUTES) Bassano F Bellevue i PARK Okotoks E Centre Hillcrest a Kalispell, Montana C Bow Cowley EBrocket t o) o E h y o 5 Stirling L. 36 E Cemetery Underground c ] k ] C L. l Turner Valley E E Fernie Nordic Ski Areas Heritage Acres a r r r o Upper u High River Brooks Cranbrook t e s e u Montana Offi ce of Tourism D E l Mine is v a i iv E lee D ifl yglacier.com m E i P R Arrow Invermere Cranbrook South Star Farm Museum S R M Stirling n i a e b [ a s . i h Lake E visitmt.com T Fernie Crowsnest o f t i Nanton ALBERTA E Recreation Area ( a t n t E x w K Kootenai Brown i e a Ralston M E (Maistoesas r i g E 3 e a S o o t K h E n Nakusp BRITISH y a ( t i C a 3 l Pioneer Village i) C a a 2 P Sistachtai) W a a g O t b93 Elk 95 k y k h Airport YQL E M t ( Stand Off a Vauxhall c o c n P 93 W a h t a COLUMBIA Claresholm E Glacier Country Travel Information i l [Raven Lodge is ( E

E n i M m b95 i S ) s [ Magrath B i s ] 50° t a er a G e a River] t Lethbridge, Alberta Slocan O n iv n Wardner r h R 2 a o e i D m ] Y t a Needles Old E glaciermt.com en L. E c r t s u i i u a3 Galloway c K k lethbridgeairport.ca Lower Kimberley Crowsnest E E Tabor d T ( [K Ft. Macleod R n E l ( e r a Arrow a6 G [ Pass Q o A E E Lethbridge C Belly St. Mary B GFt. Steele Moyie l o u I [ Lake Kootenay L Central Montana Travel Information o a t E E Reservoir E E y n e Lake Lake i F a Nelson n o ) k Fernie Pincher Creek E k Jensen o a t l 4 a o v e Missoula International Airport E r centralmontana.com a Waterton b E a m Reservoir an Elko a5 E Kokanee Elko i 6 Castlegar Cr WATERTON Milk r s t d Reservoir 62 K E E i h 5 b95 Lake LAKES Milk River Salmon Runs l S k C MSO o Moyie a i e a3 d t S a o NAT. PARK t a Koocanusa i k CANADA t n s e y i d g M Missoula, Montana Southwest Montana Travel Information n t n Orient i l GLACIER E T k e E a EEureka Babb R a h u

i Cardston E

fl ymissoula.com Bonners n l15 southwestmt.com R e ¢ Remington Carriage r e a ) R Es2 e Ferry t NATIONAL t89 a ] The Nature Conservancy of Museum

EColville Priest o t93 E s2 Shelby n E k o E Milk River Franklin E Browning n a Canada’s Waterton Park Front il L. West Glacier E g E M w395 K E Delano E PARK East Glacier Park Kalispell Convention & Visitors E g n Mt. 5 E Libby Whitefish Maria E ( W e 9645 ft Mountain Roosevelt Sandpoint E G s Grasmere [Water apakil Above ha is as s E E e i 2940 m KBlakiston International Airport YXC E Kalispell Hungry Conrad Bureau Clear as it Sounds]g g View Newport t s2 t89 93 w t95 L. Pend Horse Res. E Lake a Shanks L. Cranbrook, British Columbia C discoverkalispell.com m e Carthew-Alderson Trail 48°N Flathead Bynum Transboundary E Oreille la Teton Koocanusa Del Bonita E r Lake Cranbrook History Centre D-1 k) Flathead Coutts 49° fl ycanadianrockies.com k RoosvilleE CANADA Upper Waterton Road closed E E Spokane 49° E Carway E E F E in winter Coeur d'Alene k Polson MONTANA Hints of dining car flirtations and parlour W Lake 17 Sweetgrass G . G Whitefi sh Convention and Visitors Bureau Port of UNITED STATES Waterton Boat Tours W 6983 ft E E ) E Augusta Chief Mountain H Coeur Wallace Ronan e West Butte K2128 m E g200 9080 ft O WASH. g Great car cigar smoke haunt the vintage trains Roosville h t Kintla Lake 10466 ft (Ninastako) Great Falls International Lamona l90 d'Alene L. w287 explorewhitefi sh.com u K 2767 m K O S Falls o O K3190 m [Chief Mountain] P w i L (h r 10101 ft Kintla - e e83 I is U [ e Mt. Brown Airport GTF E waiting forever at the Cranbrook History BUFF TRA toric 3079 m Mt. Cleveland Blo t K w395 t93 Seeley Lake g200 ALO COW Peak P E od (K G 6958 ft, 2121 m t Sunburst u r E T C w195 Rexford E lo t o a s Eureka k R t s Ritzville t95 l90 Creek E Centre. Stay in nearby CPR house, once Bowman 89 Duck L. il i) Mo Y i i H i l l s Great Falls, Montana Destination Missoula Convention & Visitors A e E Ta unta S i k s) G M ah I ins Tobacco Valley 464 T L o ColfaxE E N Lake Road closed i er] r S

IDAHO Missoula 508 Babb i iv weet R ( fl ygtf.com Bureau the grand home of the railway’s regional y le Pine Hills] Hooper Historical Village f . tt h 15 E E in winter o i

E Nasukoin F 213 i L s E Lower (P [ Pullman Moscow Helena B Canyon i o Quartz L. t

destinationmissoula.org superintendent, and now a bed and o Drummond KMountain r St. Mary E Ferry k Lake r E 8036 ft Lake i EOrofino s c F E Clarkston E Deer Lodge Lake breakfast. E 2465 m HIGHLINE TRAIL Sherburne 444 TRAIN E Polebridge . r l15 E Fortine l D t12 E o Lewiston h a R St. Mary E u E Townsend t Logging L. N Waitsburg Hamilton t Amtrak Empire Builder Ant Flat Ranger Station h U E t95 E 6646 ft -S St. Mary Lake e Dixie F e E ) F t93 Anaconda Butte Fort Steele Heritage Town D-1 a Logan Pass L2025 m O-TH (Pah Tompks Sii Kimii) (stations in Whitefi sh, East EClearwater E Short nature trail touches an old -T 46° G R d GOING [Lake Inside] E l90 G Rescued pioneer-era structures, railroad camp and a preserved E Glacier Park, and West Grangeville ranger station Stryker Glacier Boat Tours E a Mt. Brown K U Bozeman summer street theatre, and grazing S Alpine section of road E Glacier) Lake 93 n Lake McDonald 8565 ft 37 . 2611 m closed in winter Cut Bank lm Clydesdales recall Fort Steele Heritage 567 (Ya kil Haqwilnamki) Triple Divide 2 amtrak.com/empire EEnterprise e Sa on a g E k [Where They Dance] Glacier Peak 89 Browning E a E w287 Town’s origins as an outpost of the Blackfoot -builder-train OREGON n Dillon Koocanusa l e E w191 2 Belton Depot Boat Tours S Salmon Visit crownofthecontinent.natgeotourism.com EShelby l15 North West Mounted Police who came i Glacier Natural Park Conservancy revives KMt. Stimson YELLOWSTONE WestE Glacier 10142 ft 2 0mi 25 50 to learn more about the Crown of the former Great Northern passenger stop 3091 m icine l84 t EMcCall NATIONAL PARK to tame itinerant gold seekers from s 49 d 0 km 25 50 t95 Road closed e asi) Continent and this spectacular landscape. M K ] h Whitefish Lake Big Mountain Nordic Trails, in winter o o River America’s wilder West. E w iy es East Glacier Park T K c Stillwater Nordic Glacier Nordic Center an 89 ato d E (N un Libby Whitefish THEODORE o S Y F E F ROOSEVELT [Tw ( M s Hillcrest Cemetery D-3 Dam WA E Ky ia tai) Fisher AIL Great Northern 40 l INTERNATIONAL ai ar ch R l Hungry Horse 2 N HIGHWAY o Sista N a a 2 [B er] The 189 coal miners who died in R Railroad Depot Columbia Four Horns L. ear Riv FIRST PEOPLES, TWO COUNTRIES E t ) t 5220 ft H

K Falls Marias Pass E 44

T 1591 m L Valier Hillcrest Mine’s 1914 explosion are A h 206 h G R R C G ‘ M ( E O T S O N M [ e e N Heart Butte REAT E T D G (A I LEWIS buried in mass graves, grouped accord- n n a a Izaak Walton Inn N Lake Frances A EN V o d d T l Hungry Horse d A (return route) Despite an international line and I 2 Goat Lick / Niitsitapi Séliš (Salish) / Qlispé (Pend d’Oreille) 93 o L ing to the religious cultures of the D

( f a Ashley L. D l T V Overlook a t u h Reservoir R I E These are the traditional territories of the Our tribes, the easternmost in the Salish H n 35 V national policies that divided families E e I Dupuyer mostly young and immigrant men. d a 56 O p D L a E E r l Blackfoot, going back thousands of years. All language family, occupied most of central M n a Conrad and toppled traditional governance, o Kalispell k á l n u P e ) e Hiking Area M of this is sacred: lakes and rivers, the forest, and western Montana, northern Idaho, and t Middle Fork Heritage Acres Farm Museum D-4 e SO t ] y g idd the rst peoples of the Crown of the ) N Little Bitterroot E Bigfork Community le For the prairie, the mountains where our people eastern Washington. In the traditional way of Kila e k As you tour the log house, general Lake 82 Nordic Center F Continent have maintained cultural E a l EPendroy go for vision quests. The water starts from life, we moved across this vast area gathering, E at 219 Marion Somers E T h store, photographic red barn, and other i ea MONTANA ties, languages, and inter-tribal coop- this place and  ows to the ocean from our , and shing the abundant and varied Bigfork d D E structures of this late 19th-century to AV 2 n E Brady eration across borders. Historically, land. Today, the biggest issue for the Black- plants and animals. We still practice these ID Lakeside 35 ‚ 48°

48° (w T ˇ~ ´ S Spotted Bear Ranger Station

early 20th-century homestead, you’ll at H s (Slaqi Clqli) E foot nations is clean drinking water and our le- traditional ways as we strive to keep our e ‘ Bynum tribal territories shifted and over- r O 200 ‘ Old and weathered, but still-active r M Flathead [Sweathouse Lake] o P Blacktail Mountain backcountry ranger station gal water rights. We continue to negotiate with critically endangered language alive. Today, see a vast collection of restored pioneer u (Nasuqut) Two Medicine lapped, but at European contact the re- t S Lake Bynum Reservoir e O Nordic Trails [no known translation] Dinosaur Center ) L w L N ˇ~’ E the government to protect our water. We the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes [ i (Clq´etk ) w artifacts. For special events, volunteers Noxon S E 15

gion was dominated by three linguistic t i) H o n a H ( t Rollins [Broad Water] ‘ Swan o takt understand that we ultimately are responsible integrate our cultural values and heritage Reservoir m Q l e t is l e Te S r] demonstrate early farming methods and e y ˘ ˘ s e B ’ . Lake i iv groups. Long the great warriors of the th e (Yawu nik A kuqnuk) ik R L i S st for the protection of our territory, water, and into an advanced program of environmental n S i n a E g w u e t . W e [Monster Lake] r

fire up vintage machinery such as the - t E B w a F M I f E ( [ S eastern slopes, the Blackfoot Confed- r e Elmo Choteau ( the retention of our language and culture. and natural resource management on the e l ~ r o r s k Old Trail Museum e t w r r i

h u steam-powered sawmill. o Teton Courthouse

k — Earl Old Person, Chief of the Blackfeet ) r

eracy includes the Piikani, Siksika, Flathead Reservation and throughout our W Marine Trail o n

Wild Horse Island A a 28 ,

F s Reimagine 1906 in original gallery

t r

MULE DEER IN BEAR GRASS, GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MT t ˇ ´ o Nation, MT e (Ctise m) M ˇ [ n

aboriginal territories for the bene t of future l r (

and Blood/Kainai Nations in Alberta TONYBYNUM.COM P seats at this courthouse in the middle u s a [Something Sweet] S Kootenai Brown Pioneer Village D-4 t l ] t

, e 93 a Choteau's Main Street. generations. h 287 (Kwilqanqmi) ) and the in Montana. c n i e This haven for rescued 19th-century [Big Island] e a a Benton — Tony Incashola, Salish-Pend d’Oreille Culture E - d Pishkun Reservoir Polson W Ktunaxa / Ksanka / Kootenai Lake On the west side are the mountain y s Freezeout Lake n Committee and Clayton Matt, Natural structures is a good starting point for h Our language is unrelated to any language in 83 Freezeout Lewis and Clark e e bands of the Ktunaxa Nation in British r Swan Lake Resource Director and Member of Salish Tribe s National Historic Trail Pablo e the world. Maybe that’s because our tra- you to wander along Alberta’s Cowboy d Sun - E l , R Fairfield Columbia and the Ksanka/Kootenai in Res. Y Interpretive Center E i Hot Springs o Trail through the Rocky Mountain foot- m Gibson Res. 89 ditional territory in these mountains is so u C. M. Russell Museum - Wildlife Montana. Farther south, the Interior E o S remote. Fewer than 50 people still speak  uent Pablo C E hills, where film crews are sometimes n Sun River Painter’s brilliant pigments u Management Area 28 r a preserve a faded West E Salish people, including the Bitterroot r E Ktunaxa. We made a dictionary and work with n 382 o E as common as cattle drives. Glacial Lake RonanE Condon l 21 E u Ninepipe Res. M E Salish and Pend d’Oreille, are closely Kootenai elders in Montana to save our lan- I Missoula , n I Augusta Fort Shaw Great I Camas ˇ ’ Mission Mountains a 200 (Xntsnmé. Clqli´ s) d Simms Special places are still revered and should be FORT MACLEOD, AB - Falls guage from extinction. At the time of creation, E Prairie, S Wilderness Areas [Ninepipes Lake] q n related to other Salish-speaking na- ’ E GUNTER MARX / ALAMY R C o r respected by all. High on many ridges are the Plains (Qln i) w K we were given our language and this territory l E m Ulm (N a [Referring to 8580 ft tions in British Columbia, Washington, r e Una Mt. k rock shelter remains of vision quest sites, many t Raw Camas] Charlo t m a 2615 m 287 K to care for. We are still negotiating a treaty [ x k h R R . w 93 A i e F i g 200 15 L and Idaho. All of these nations and that face Chief Mountain—the Blackfoot home v ´t o E n C ) e k Paradise o n e with Canada and British Columbia for rights r w r Moiese E g D ut ] E F National Bison N o ) k l M r tribes invite visitors to their powwows, of thunder. is where the a R A r to our ancestral homeland and to protect the ( t Range q’ IS e Perma N h o g Scapegoat t tx w ead E w W a Raven lives. Glacier’s Lake McDonald is home [ . e´tkw E St. Ignatius u KMountain E (w museums, and interpretive centers. water. Our language and our land go together. 135 Riv ) n e a De L er] Dixon t 9202 ft a St. Ignatius a s e r of a Kootenai sacred dance. i ) 2805 m b — Liz Gravelle, Ktunaxa Elder, Tobacco E n n o Mission s r ) ] n y Plains, BC Ravalli ta CONTIN a Smith g EN k ] Seeley Creek T a r 200 N A e Nordic Trail System L m iv Seeley L. e Scapegoat D (O R IVID i ) g E E r y i W E Wilderness u a B 120° 116° 112° Arlee Seeley Lake o t [ s a r] s ak e N i m iv o ska Red Mountain K ) M O R r a t e 434 g th S c Placid L. t E o i h 9411 ft S Craig p B a ew J 93 I u a J c an 2868 m o k th s W r is u E a n o b L m S r A [ a u ( et r h 90 E Ovando ( E t E Wolf Creek 47°

A Frenchtown B Holter a 47° Lake R tt 200 le 114° E t Lincoln Missoula 200 S lackfoo (Nl~ ayccstm)ˇ B o E[Place of the Small Bull Trout] Kinbasket Saskatoon The Fort (Museum of the North West 115° 113° 112°W Lake 52° Mounted Police) D-5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 c ALBERTA Red-coated police on horseback were dispatched to Fort Macleod in the BRITISH Calgary R SASKATCHEWAN ed wheels for Remington Carriage funds for village upkeep. south along the Rocky Mountain Front. St. Ignatius Mission J-4

Golden (Mo kins sti) D 1870s to stop American whiskey traders COLUMBIA ‘ ee k [Elbow River] r Museum’s display of 225 horse- Then visit the Dinosaur Gallery to go Furs and souls drew traders and mis- ( aknuqtap¢ik) from abusing Blackfoot and Great Northern Railway Depot G-3 C Revelstoke o [Elbow] an drawn vehicles. Ride restored coaches, back an additional 65 million years to sionaries to native lands where rel- lu ew defying Canadian sovereignty. Museum If you’re a railroad buff, you’ll love this m h wagons, or sleighs behind Clydesdales, meet earlier travelers. ics of commerce and conversion are Bow c b Blackfoot Crossing t and musical rides honour Canada’s tra-

i (M historic depot, the busiest Amtrak stop

a okinists a y ‘ is Historical Park Upper Sis sk Canadians, quarter horses, or shires. found in timeworn buildings. Paintings [Elbow R ta a dition of cavalry riding to the rescue of iv c between Seattle and Minneapolis. The Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Arrow (Wu u aqlsmaknik akinmituk) e h S r inside the mission church interpret Lake [River Water People] ] ta h natives, not interlopers. Visit the nearby w i t depot doubles as Whitefish Museum. Interpretive Center I-8 (Sqlsewlk ) ) Tobacco Valley Historical Village F-2 [Kooetenai Waters] u Jesus and his mother as native North ( o restored 1884 police barracks and inter- Pioneer buildings were moved to save Montana’s first non-Native American St. Eugene Mission S Kootenay Head-Smashed-In Americans. Nearby, Fort Connah a Lake and Ktunaxa pretive centre. Old Trail Museum H-7 Lower k Buffalo Jump them from drowning when the Libby Dam tourists found a route to the Pacific ( x ( Interpretive Centre Join local guides to explore the Old was an outpost of imperial Britain’s Arrow X u M K created Lake Koocanusa in the 1970s. Ocean in an 1803-06 odyssey along

Lake w 9138 ft Crowsnest Lethbridge (Sik-ooh-kotok) [Black Coal] Remington Carriage Museum E-5 Hudson’s Bay Company. ‘ i M 2785 m c i i C ls North Trail, ’s original x s s Cranbrook Mountain Fort Whoop-Up and ypress Hil Browse Fewkes General Store for his- the Missouri and Columbia Rivers. As a w t N a Indian Battle Park See working wheelwrights heat and transcontinental highway, used for mil-

Castlegar c ‘ Tobacco Plains National torical artifacts. And if you buy a locally modern explorer you can trace the jour- CANADA u a k Aboriginal Day Celebration shrink steel bands around wooden t l i Grasmere lennia by native peoples moving north or ) m s NATIVE AMERICAN WARRIORS AT GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MT ) Maskinonge Lake made quilt, you’ll be helping provide ney more quickly here. GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY DEPOT, MT U.S. u BETTMANN / CORBIS [ o K BRIAN SCHOTT R q Chief Mountain Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park/ [ 9080 ft 108° o ¢ M (Ninastako) i 2767 m Áísínai‘pi National Historic Site c ) [Chief Mountain] Franklin Delano k o M y u il [ North American Lake ( k Roosevelt Lake B n Browning Poyi M t i Ta OUTDOOR RECREATION Sandpoint o a u Indian Days Elwell [Li h Ta ttle R i) o d i iver u y n Bears Paw ] ia L. Pend n s OLD NORTH TRAIL b o Kalispell 48°N

m t ] Mountains

u Oreille a f (historic route) Goat Lick Overlook G-5 powered boaters find wilderness tranquil- ‘ l i Flathead Lake ‘ WILDLIFE VIEWING WINTER ACTIVITIES o n G so C w ˘ ˘ is u s i ’ . M r Midsummer provides peak viewing for ity on Kintla Lake in Glacier National Park a n (Clq´etk ) (Yawu nik A kuqnuk) i Spokane Coeur ] o n [Broad Water] [Monster Lake] (Amiskap Om Freedom to roam for big mammals—bear, Although not a strict dividing line, d’Alene t ak mountain goats using this pioneering and Elk Lakes Provincial Park. Mountain ] uth Big atay) Fort Peck Lake Pablo The People’s Center [So Ri WASHINGTON Great Falls (Omakata ver] Lake elk, wolves, lynx, —means robust the Continental Divide is a helpful y) underpass that provides safe passage hikers swear by therapeutic leaps into First Peoples Buffalo [Big Rive r] t Arlee Jump State Park wildlife populations and great viewing. beneath Highway 2. glacier-fed lakes to pacify weary muscles. guide for those who do and do Arlee 4th of July Missoula During spring and summer, grizzlies wan- Downstream, millions of North Americans not love snow. The mountain crest (Nl aycˇcstm) Celebration Snak MONTANA National I-3 e B der the high country, scarfing up grass, depend upon these fresh, clean waters catches Pacific storms that depos- [Place of the i Small Bull Trout] g Established in 1909 and stocked with a roots, insects and, rarely, meat. In the for drinking, recreation, and agriculture. it abundant snowfall on the west Helena B e Mus descendants of bison rescued from IDAHO l sels ell e autumn, they rove where berries ripen. side. On the eastern side, snow- t h n Tribal Territories About 1800 o Crowsnest River D-4 M st Black bears prefer the cover of forests. extinction by Pend d’Oreille people, this eater chinook winds, warm and ow t ell Blackfoot Confederacy s Y sanctuary protects hundreds of bison Shallow riffles, deep pools, and runs too i . Your chance of seeing a dur- fierce, quickly erase the leftovers Ktunaxa Billings ing your lifetime is greatest while hiking on 18,500 acres (7,487 hectares) of rocky for drift boats make the Crowsnest of earlier blizzards. Snowshoeing, n r rolling grassland and forest. Take short River above a treasured Salish, Pend d’Oreille, and other Salishan tribes o in Glacier National Park, especially the and cross-country and downhill ski h n ig nature walks from access points along preserve for traditional dry fly anglers who Map Key B Highline Trail. The region’s wild rivers opportunities abound on the west Historical site and glaciated lakes are magnets for 24 miles (39 kilometers) of road loop. prefer to walk and wade. side. Windows between freezing Other point of interest waterfowl, resident and migratory. Eagles, Sun River Wildlife Management Area I-6 Waterton and Glacier Boat Tours E-4, and snowfall for wild ice skating Powwow s hawks, and owls swoop through inter- may last longer on the east side Sun River Canyon reverberates in late fall SPINEBACK TRAIL IN , FERNIE, BC F-4, and F-5 mountain valleys and along alpine ridges. HENRY GEORGI / ALL CANADA PHOTOS / CORBIS for those who can abide the wind. UNESCO World Heritage site Yellowstone from the clash of bighorn rams knock- Sunset cruises on a tranquil Lake CROSS-COUNTRY SKIERS, FERNIE, BC 0 mi 100 (Mo kins sti) Tribal name Lake ing heads for breeding rights. Below the McDonald. Narrated tours of Upper HENRY GEORGI / ALL CANADA PHOTOS / ALAMY WYOMING 0 km 100 Top of the World Provincial Park C-2 [Elbow River] Tribal name translation Columbia Wetlands B-1 Waterton Lake. Wildlife- and glacier- 44° canyon, in the wildlife management area Chert for tools and weapons was quarried CROWN OF THE CONTINENT Swans, eagles, ospreys, herons, and viewing on St. Mary Lake. Take your CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING itself, watch in winter for herds of stately by the Ktunaxa inside today’s Top of the ducks rest on their seasonal migrations pick of these and other guided trips on For more information on Alberta trails: elk and swift antelope. World Provincial Park. If you’re a skier, xcountryab.net Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park/ hills-resident Blackfoot. Native peace turn the icon of a sad period of history along one of North America’s longest historic vessels that ply the deep blue snowshoer, angler, hiker, or horseback For more information on British Columbia trails: Áísínai’pi National Historic Site was exploited by whiskey smugglers into an economic engine by restoring wetlands. Both the Columbia and the Freezeout Lake I-7 water at the foot of majestic peaks. crosscountrybc.ca Abundant First Nations petroglyphs cover- who plied the Whoop-Up Trail between an old Indian residential school into an Kootenay Rivers originate here, flowing in Birds by the hundreds of thousands and rider, you’ll enjoy wilderness trails and For more information on Montana trails: wintermt.com Trail Distance (mi) Easy Terrain Trail Use FeeDogs Allowed ing sheer sandstone cliffs, and native here and Fort Benton, Montana, and international destination resort. opposite directions, to merge hundreds of humans by the handful congregate at campsites that are closed to vehicles Middle Fork Flathead River G-5 Trail Distance (km) Difficult TerrainModerate Terrain Freezeout Lake to celebrate early spring. powered or pedaled. From family-friendly, half-day rafting Allison-Chinook Cross Country Ski Trails, Crowsnest Park, AB D-3 30 19 grasses and wildlife are protected as part prompted the formation of today’s Royal kilometres later, at Castlegar, B.C. allisonwonderlands.ca * Maskinonge Lake Tundra swans, snow geese, and 200 trips to thrilling, multi-day horseback rid- of the Blackfoot spiritual heritage. Canadian Mounted Police. Carthew-Alderson Trail E-4 Big Mountain Nordic Trails, Whitefish, MT G-3 The Blackfoot people trace the origins of South Livingstone Raptor Watch Site D-3 ing and rafting adventures, white-water 10 6 other migrating species pause here in Catch the hikers’ shuttle at Tamarack glaciernordicclub.com Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump The People’s Center the sacred beaver bundle, with its pre- Watch migrating golden eagles ride mid-March while they wait for nature’s opportunities on this wild and scenic Outdoor Outfitters for a one-way 19-km Bigfork Community Nordic Center, Bigfork, MT G-4 10 6 Before guns and horses, native hunters Hear oral history directly from the con- served animal hides and waterfowl skins, updrafts along the eastern flank of river abound. northshorenordic.org * traffic control system to indicate that far (12-mi) hike back to the town of Waterton. stalked bison on foot and stampeded temporary custodians of Salish and to this place still rich in creatures. the Rocky Mountains. See them best from northern destinations are open for feed- Blacktail Mountain Nordic Trails, Lakeside, MT H-3 A steady climb past Summit Lake and Flathead Lake Marine Trail H-4 19 12 the animals over cliffs. Head-Smashed- Kootenai tribal heritage, adjacent to trib- the ridge called Piitaistakis, or “The Place ing and breeding. northshorenordic.org above the tree line rewards you with Pick up a trail map (which specifies In Buffalo Jump remains an important al headquarters and community college. of the Eagles,” by Piikani Blackfoot. Cranbrook South Star Recreation Area, Cranbrook, BC D-1 30 19 * cultural UNESCO World Heritage site POWWOWS panoramic views on Carthew Summit. access points, campgrounds, and dis- cranbrookchamber.com/activity/south-star-recreation-trails St. Eugene Mission and Ktunaxa Elk Valley Nordic Centre, Fernie, BC D-2 where Blackfoot First Nations share Kokanee Salmon Runs E-2 Descend along alpine lakes. tances) and paddle the crystalline water. 7 4 In the late 1800s, U.S. government HIKING fernienordic.com their history and values. Interpretive Centre Witness late summer bounty when grizzly Explore islands and more than 120 miles Jewel Basin Hiking Area G-4 , Fernie, BC D-2 The interpretative centre honouring agents were determined to stamp out bears, osprey, and eagles congregate at Tremendous day hikes and vast back- (193 kilometers) of forested shoreline. 14 9 Watch eye-level eagles and hawks in fernienordic.com First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Ktunaxa history and renewal is located Indian culture, including traditional cer- Kootenay River tributaries. Kikomun and packing terrain are a bonanza for the autumn from atop Mt. Aeneas, the The Fernie Dyke, Fernie, BC D-2 5 3 For at least a thousand years, before inside the St. Eugene Golf Resort & emonies. But they couldn’t say no when Wild Horse Creeks set a feast for all when mountain explorers. Thousands of miles fernienordic.com tallest peak in this hikers-only wonder- horses and guns made the work easier Casino. The Ktunaxa Nation decided to leaders of the Salish-Pend d’Oreille waters run red with spawning Kokanee of trail crisscross public land, much of Fernie Golf & Country Club, Fernie, BC D-2 land. The area is studded with 25 alpine 12 7 and safer, Plains Indians stampeded tribes wished to celebrate the nation’s salmon. it maintained by volunteers. Close to fernienordic.com birthday. The Arlee powwow continues to lakes and offers 35 miles (56 kilometers) bison over this ledge to be finished off town, families find pedestrian Glacier Nordic Center, Whitefish, MT G-3 13 8 of prime hiking trails in the Flathead glaciernordicclub.com by the spears and arrows of hunters blend tribal traditions and contemporary joys at Foys to Blacktail Trails waiting below. festivities over the Fourth of July National Forest. Island Lake Lodge, Fernie, BC D-2 8 5 near Kalispell, the Whitefish fernienordic.com weekend. The second weekend of July Trail, Columbia Lake Spirit Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park Izaak Walton Inn, Essex, MT G-4 33 21 1 belongs to the Blackfeet Nation’s Trail, and Kimberley Nature izaakwaltoninn.com The Blackfoot nations and Canada North American Indian Days in Browning. WATER Park. The Montana Wilderness Kimberley Nordic Club, Kimberley, BC D-1 33 21 signed an 1877 peace treaty at this Attend the rodeo to watch riders switch kimberleynordic.org natural ford of the , known Association, since 1962, leads ACTIVITIES mounts three times in a fierce, bareback Lake Windermere Whiteway, Invermere, BC B-1 31 19 by the Siksika as Sooyooh’pawahko, free nature hikes. Waterton At the headwaters of the continent, tobycreeknordic.ca * race. National Aboriginal Day in Canada and Glacier National Parks pro- or “underwater bridge.” The park offers is June 21—a day to celebrate the thousands of small streams feed hun- Seeley Creek Nordic Trail System, Seeley Lake, MT J-5 18 11 First Nations guides, indoor exhibits, tipi vide access to trails that quick- dreds of lakes and two dozen major riv- seeleylakenordic.org cultures of First Nations. The Tobacco 2 ly put you in alpine zones, Stillwater Nordic, Whitefish, MT G-3 20 12 lodging, and ceremonial dances. Plains Aboriginal Day Celebration wel- ers. Flathead Lake is the largest natural stillwatermtnlodge.com although you must be willing to freshwater lake west of the Mississippi in Fort Whoop-Up and Indian Battle Park comes visitors to the Ktunaxa homeland. Sunset Ridge Ski Trails, Sparwood, BC C-2 8 5 walk uphill in beautiful settings the Lower 48. Outfitters point to choice skisparwood.com North America’s last intertribal clash All powwows and First Nations celebra- that take your breath away. riffles to cast your fly in the Elk River * Trail fee not required, donations recommended here in 1870 was followed by a treaty tions are open to tribal members and 1 Dogs permitted only on Dickey Creek Road and South Fork of the Flathead. Muscle- 2 between plains-roaming Cree and foot- non-Native Americans alike. Dogs permitted on a 3.5 km-section (2.2 miles) of the trail

NORTH AMERICAN INDIAN DAYS, BROWNING, MT WOLVERINE CHRIS PETERSON WHITE-WATER RAFTING ON THE MIDDLE FORK OF THE FLATHEAD RIVER, MT Copyright © 2014 National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C. DONNIE SEXTON / TRAVEL MONTANA LEE COHEN / CORBIS 114°W Map Key What Is Geotourism All About? According to National Geographic, geotourism “sustains or enhances Community the geographical character of a place—its environment, culture, Museum aesthetics, heritage, and the well-being of its residents.” Geotravelers, Natural or scenic area then, are people who like that idea, who enjoy authentic sense of To Calgary place and care about maintaining it. They find that relaxing and Other point of interest having fun gets better—provides a richer experience—when they get E Outdoor experience 115° E Black Diamond involved in the place and learn about what goes on there. BOB CREEK WILDLAND, AB Turner World Heritage site Geotravelers soak up local culture, hire local guides, buy local ALBERTA PARKS Valley C foods, protect the environment, and take pride in discovering and l Scenic route os observing local customs. Travel-spending choices can help or hurt, so ed i National Wild and Scenic River BARING CREEK IN GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MT CHUCKHANEY.COM n 22 geotravelers patronize establishments that care about conservation, wi nt preservation, beautification, and benefits to local people. er Urban area 543 Protected Areas Learn more at CrownoftheContinent.net. High River E 23 Indian or First Nation reserve Geotraveler Tips: Buy Local 541 National forest or reserve High Patronize businesses that support the community and its conservation C w O o Frank National park N 40 o and preservation efforts. Seek out local products, foods, services, and K ELK d ELongview Lake 11250 ft T Mt. Joffre IN shops. When you support the people who support the place, they’ll 3429 m E Other protected area N Longview Jerky Shop T A usually reward you with a richer, more memorable trip. L Administered by UNESCO, the World Heritage

LAKES D IV List recognizes the most significant cultural Volunteer ID 540 E and natural treasures on the planet. ( A great way to get to know a place—and the people who work to G

KAYAKER ON BOWMAN LAKE WITH RAINBOW PEAK IN THE BACKGROUND, MT STEVEN GNAM R E Albers Conic Equal-Area Projection PROVINCIAL A protect it—is to lend a hand. Options abound: Repair hiking trails, pull T Standard Parallels 47° and 50° K D E IV Cayley invasive weeds, restore streamside habitat, catalog historical artifacts. 10719 ft ID SCALE 1:500,000 3267 m Mt. Abruzzi E ) 0 mi 10 Roll up your sleeves with the Bob Marshall Wilderness Foundation or PARK 0 10 the Nature Conservancy of Canada. Quiet Seasons w Bob Creek Wildland km MAP DATA DERIVED FROM: DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL Take a Hike Bob Creek Wildland protects Whaleback RESOURCES CANADA; MIISTAKIS INSTITUTE FOR THE 2 Alpine wonders draw summer multitudes, but amateur Ridge and one of Alberta’s most important elk ROCKIES; MODIS/TERRA VEGETATION CONTINUOUS The region features thousands of miles of hiking, biking, and horse naturalists and wanderers may find sweeter seren- ranges. At the southern limit of this backcoun- FIELDS, NASA; NASA EARTH OBSERVATORY; NATURAL trails. Local volunteers lead various nature groups on educational q Lussier Hot Springs try preserve, which has no visitor facilities, the RESOURCES CANADA, CANADIAN FOREST SERVICE - ity in the spring, fall, or winter. Marvel at giant larch From steamy hot to merely tepid, find your PACIFIC FORESTRY CENTRE; OAK RIDGE NATIONAL day hikes to watch birds, identify wildflowers, and explore public wild- breaks free of the mountains Nanton E LABORATORY LANDSCAN 2004™/UT-BATTELLE, LLC; lands. Outings are free, but your donation will support conservation. trees as they golden in Seeley Lake during the Alpine comfort level among the cascade of primi- through a narrow slot locals call “The Gap.” Canadian Grain Elevator SRTM DATA, INTERNATIONAL CENTRE FOR TROPICAL tive rock pools alongside the bubbling, frigid Discovery Centre AGRICULTURE (CIAT); UMD GLOBAL LAND COVER Artisans Tour of the Arts in October. On her day in CLASSIFICATION, UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND Visit First Nation and Tribal Lands Lussier River, just inside Whiteswan Lake On First Nation land or an American , you are a May, take mother to spy harlequin ducks and ouzels Provincial Park. 533 Courcelette Peak K guest where people live and work. Taking photos and video can be a diving into the froth of McDonald Creek. The best party 9987 ft Mt. BurkeK8340 ft 3044 m 2542 m L sensitive issue, so ask permission first. A great time to visit is during i t R t of the year, or at least the snowiest, would either be l traditional powwows.

e

C B the Whitefish Winter Carnival in February or the Fernie 532 O o W w Dirt Roads B Griz Days Festival in March. Fort Macleod welcomes O Many of the roads between towns and public recreational lands are Y

Elk T R not paved. Take it slow, keep the dust down, and give the wildlife a Santa and his reindeer, alongside horse-drawn carriag- A I es, at Alberta’s largest Santa Claus parade. L brake. Don’t drive off road, and please respect private property. Chain Lakes Provincial Park Fishing and RV camping Bears, , and Wolves As a visitor, you’re sharing one of North America’s wildest places with Fording 9684 ft KMt. Lyall ROCKY on the Cowboy Trail W 2952 m i ECanal Flats l these majestic creatures. Hike in groups, make noise, and stay at l E Livingstone Falls o Stavely 116° White w least ten bus lengths away. Lussier Hot Springs Whiteswan q Lake Step Away from Your Car P Travel options abound so you may better appreciate the scenery and e Kimberley r Chimney Rock o meet others. Glacier National Park provides a free shuttle service e

i Hike, cross-country ski, or ride your bike in the Bed & Breakfast r s r Marysville Falls & Eco Park across the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Drivers double as cultural guides s Kimberley Nature Park, one of Canada’s larg- c u Follow the forested trail for around 10 min- on the Blackfeet-run Sun Tours, or try the elegant convertible-top red est municipal parks at 800 hectares (1,800 L O u acres). Visit the Old Bauernhaus Restaurant, a utes and you come to a viewpoint overlooking MOUNTAINS 22 buses. Amtrak provides passenger service along Glacier’s southern the impressive, 30-metre (98-foot) Marysville p border. For muscle-powered transport, pedal the unpaved Great German farm building first registered in 1640 L Falls. Opposite the trailhead is the Eco Park, O i and moved to Canada in 1987. Plug a coin ld Divide Mountain Bike Route on both sides of the border. with picnic tables, flower gardens, and a m n Claresholm E Frontier Western Shop Ltd in the country’s largest free-standing cuckoo a Lucasia Ranch sculpture of a westslope cutthroat trout. n i Saddles, duds, and horse feed draw Leave No Trace clock at the downtown Platzl. E BOB e 520 Elkford , WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK, AB cowboys, working and wannabe 50°N Take only photographs and leave only footprints. Travel on existing TONYBYNUM.COM v H 50°N trails and camp on hard surfaces. Keep campfires small in estab- 93 w K i lished fire pits. Pack out garbage if no trash receptacles are nearby. 95 o Tornado Mountain i SCOTT NIEDERMAYER WITH STANLEY CUP ATOP , BC K10167 ft CREEK l o 3099 m BLACK Let animals eat natural foods rather than yours. t ALAN MAUDIE PHOTOGRAPHY l e s n FOREST n Thinking of Moving Here? a 43 y CREEK Crown of the Premier Lake WILDLAND If you plan to relocate, live in town or close by. The fragmentation of

Provincial Park g working farms and forests into rural subdivisions and small ranchettes HERITAGE harms water quality, wildlife habitat, native plants, and traditional

s livelihood. With global warming, the risk of dangerous forest fires has RANGELAND soared along the valley fringes and forested foothills. The Gap E 519 BRITISH C t Granum O Crossing the Border Continent

C ld O m Enhance your adventure by exploring both countries. We value N o a T RESERVE n I n

N our cross-border visitors. Please check for current border crossing a

E NORTH AMERICA’S

N E COLUMBIA m requirements. n T 2 Maycroft d A l L

E D O

Wasa I

V

I

D e ROCKY MOUNTAIN MAJESTY E 8 11

( he Crown of the Continent—spanning 95 G R E 3

A M g Waterton Lakes National Park T 25 River Valley D Sierra West Cabins corners of Alberta, British Columbia, a I Rugged, windswept mountains rise abruptly V R

r Sparwood E I Wilderness Park D k Cominco Gardens . E out of gentle prairie grassland and a glaciated 785

r ) E 113° C C and Montana—provides visitors with r More than 45,000 colourful blossoms e . s series of Waterton lakes. Wild bouquets and Fort Macleod 509 r on 5 manicured hectares (12 acres) t Fisher Peak 9138 ft KCrowsnest Mountain a o 2785 m bears spill across overlapping ecological zones Lethbridge E 73,000 square kilometres (28,000 square H A vigorous hike to the spire of Fisher Peak offers s EKimberley and multihued rocks. d Nikka Yuko l a stunning view of two provinces and three e n n T i miles) of spellbinding scenery and a good o Japanese Garden Kimberley Nina's Hillside Garden states. National Hockey League’s local hero Scott t ST. W K r te Marysville Falls MARY’S Niedermayer used his champion’s right to a day a chance to spy bighorn sheep, mountain goats,

E g W Marysville r & Eco Park P with the Stanley Cup and hoisted the trophy at O INDIAN E 810 LETHBRIDGE O r Fort Steele L G St. Ma y RESERVE the top of the peak. L elk, or, with luck, the monarch of the Crown— G K Crowsnest Pass s Nikka Yuko Japanese Garden AIRPORT R A e PIIKANI Experience artful blends of vegetation, rock, WycliffeE CANADIAN ROCKIES W P 4452 ft A E 1357 m Chris’ the grizzly bear. The region includes two United INTL. AIRPORT R C Ep and water in celebration of Japanese culture D A Restaurant Communities of N E P Crowsnest 93 E l NorthStar which rooted in Lethbridge after compulsory R l Pass Crowsnest Pass ALBERTA Nations World Heritage sites. One, Waterton- y - u E F NATION Rails to Trails O t B ELundbreck wartime migration from coastal areas. 95A R Fisher Peak Hosmer T Oldman River S 2 Glacier International Peace Park, protects head- T ECowley Reservoir E 3 F EL E Elk st RO e E RESERVE 5 11 waters of three continental river systems, and affirms the wisdom y A n Isadore D Crows 3 Brocket 5 Canyon Trail KAINAI of transcending political boundaries in the management of shared Historic Cranbrook uE Historic Downtown l 507 Cranbrook Fernie o p Communities of Crowsnest Pass E a Beauvais Lake Provincial Park K i Fernie o Historic Downtown Fernie Squeezed into a steep, narrow valley, a ecosystems. The second, Alberta’s Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, o Wardner-Fort Climb Mount Albert or Piney Point. Launch Elizabeth Lake o Steele Road A stunning alpine backdrop frames the view ry t The Curry string of small mining towns merged into EPincher Creek a Bird Sanctuary ena Island Lake Lodge of Canada’s best preserved mountain-style a Lebel Mansion your kayak on the lake. Go bird-watching in attests to the region’s 6,000 years of human economy derived from y Bowl the municipality of Crowsnest Pass in 1979. M Protected marsh and nesting area Pincher Creek the wetlands. Hike or cross-country ski more . railway station and a slate-roofed courthouse. 507 (BLOOD) NATION t for waterfowl covering a hundred 3 93 Y ROCKY Though linked by disasters, a railroad, and a than 18 kilometres (11 miles) of trails (notice S the diversity of the landscape and its wildlife. hectares (247 acres) The Brickhouse, in a century-old bank build- river, they retain their distinctions: Coleman, E ing, and the Curry Bowl will serve you offbeat t the rare white bog orchid or mountain lady’s Stand Off y Trans Canada Trail Blairmore, Frank, Bellevue, and Hillcrest. 6 food. Work those calories off with mountain slipper along the way). You can take your pick Not long ago, visitors to remote mountain valleys were likely to be For 25 kilometres (16 miles), this national of outdoor pursuits year-round in this diverse, y E E sports, which now challenge mining and tim- ll Wardner e Magrath horse-mounted hunters seeking hides and heads as trophies. Today’s network of multiuse trails is one with the nearly 1,215-hectare (3,000-acre) protected B ber cutting as economic mainstays. h 774 a NorthStar Rails to Trails—a paved, former MOUNTAINS Beauvais Lake area. RESERVE backcountry trekkers are most often birders, fly casters, photogra- railway bed with the Purcell and Steeples Old Growth d Provincial Ranges as its backdrop. It then links Cottonwoods EGalloway e phers, or snowshoers. Many of today’s year-round residents first to the Isadore Canyon Trail, travelling through The Great Canadian Barn Dance meadows, marshes, rolling hills, and forests. f West Castle River Valley and Family Campground Glenwood E came as tourists who, smitten by the mountain vistas, returned with i Wardner-Fort Steele Road Spring wildflowers draw botanists and photog- Alberta beef and prairie potatoes, 116° Moyie Lake 3 a with side of stomp Take the Wardner-Fort Steele byway for inti- FOREST raphers to West Castle Wetlands Ecological St. Mary their professions or savings—and their urban tastes and expecta- 95 MOUNT f mate close-ups of mountains rising sharply OLD GROWTH COTTONWOODS, BC West Castle Reserve. Late summer attracts trout stalkers. 505 Reservoir STEVE SHORT tions. While ranching and woodcutting continue to define some small from flat ranchlands, herds of foraging elk, Elko E BROADWOOD d River Valley Winter beckons cross-country skiers.

sand cliffs densely colonized by swallows, and E Hill Spring 5 HERITAGE P communities, demographics are changing rapidly as builders cater to

KMt. Haig E the chance of finding a gold nugget in Wild 8566 ft A Waterton CONSERVATION C Horse Creek. 2611 m E

u Historic Cranbrook Country General Store Reservoir migrants and weekenders who may not be aware of how their choices RESERVE P A Pick up an Explore Historic Cranbrook map AREA & Mexican Restaurant R

W

K

L (available at the Cranbrook Visitor Centre) and e Groceries and gifts, full-service dining, impact the ecosystems they came to enjoy. Along timbered valleys

R O s

O tour 98 storied landmarks in three distinct t and live entertainment in a friendly, P

C welcoming atmosphere and across open foothills, landowners, conservationists, and many areas: the Railway Heritage Area, Baker Hill a C s a t stl Residential Heritage Area, and downtown l a e e 62 of the newcomers themselves, are joining to sustain working ranch- E core. Take in some live theatre, local music, TRAIL Cardston OY or an art exhibition. B n W Cobblestone Manor lands, clear streams, and free-ranging wildlife. Increasingly, those CO Take your time at this river-rock

6 restaurant, meticulously constructed fortunate enough to visit or live in the Crown of the Continent are g between 1889 and 1928. Red Rock seeking less to dominate the landscape than to find a personal HANDS ACROSS THE BORDER EVENT, AB AND MT Canyon E e 5 CHRIS PETERSON WATERTON LAKES Mountain View harmony with it. 93 g Grasmere E Payne Lake Provincial Recreation Area — David Thomas, writer, Crowsnest Pass, AB Mt. Blakiston K Wildlife viewing, fishing, swimming, and FARMERS MARKET, WHITEFISH, MT 9645 ft NAT. PARK BRIAN SCHOTT TOBACCO M 2940 m camping with dramatic views of the PLAINS d Old Growth Cottonwoods Prince of Wales KAINAI Canadian Rocky Mountains. Veloured in dense green moss, 400-year-old E Hotel INDIAN Waterton Park (BLOOD) 2 RESERVE black cottonwood trees congregate on the Upper Waterton NATION side of the Elk River at Morrissey Bridge. A AKAMINA-KISHINENA Lake RESERVE CANADA nature walk steers you around wet spots and Road closed in winter ERoosville Carway E E avoids sensitive cottonwood roots. PROVINCIAL PARK WATERTON- 49° 49° Port of UNITED STATES W Cameron Lake Roosville Rent canoe or kayak at the foot of the Continental Divide 89 Lake Goat Haunt E 17 ilk 93 h Kintla M KOOTENAI Lake 10101 ft KKintla Peak 9080 ft 213 3079 m GLACIER Chief Mountain K2767 m Koocanusa i K10466 ft Mt. Cleveland 3190 m Highest peak in park t Eureka E h h Waterton-Glacier International j NATIONAL Duck Eureka Bowman Lake Peace Park e O Babb 213 FLATHEAD Lake INTERNATIONAL E Local Rotary Clubs on each side of the E Road closed in winter 49th parallel inspired the U.S. Congress 508 BLACKFEET Yaak f and Canada’s Parliament to establish the F GLACIER world’s first international peace park in 1932. 37 l a Lake Sherburne Rotarians, park managers, and school chil- i th l Lower St. Mary FOREST KNasukoin Mountain ea Many Glacier Hotel dren reaffirm the peace with an annual hands 8036 ft d Lake 2465 m Horseback Rides in Glacier N.P. across the border pledge. The conjoined park s PEACE PARK 444 Saddle up like the first park is now a United Nations World Heritage site. BOULDER GLACIER, GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MT, CIRCA 1910 MORTON ELROD / GLACIER NATIONAL PARK ARCHIVES Y A Polebridge E visitors in 1910. W E k Polebridge Y S Fortine B Grinnell St. Mary C h NATIONAL E I Glacier D N A E O C R

S Alpine section of NATIONAL N A j Eureka road closed in winter U S a -S INDIAN U E Snowcapped peaks of the Galton Range H N McDonald -T A k Polebridge Logan Pass -TO l Glacier National Park C tower above the rolling plains of the Tobacco Creek L ING O Taste Polebridge Mercantile’s hefty sand- GO St. Mary Lace up your boots and explore this backcoun-

O Valley, where Kutenai Indians wintered for R 6646 ft k K e 2025 m Cre Eating Local E E wiches on freshly baked bread, and sample PARK Lake try wilderness woven with 734 miles (1,181 thousands of years. Stroll the Riverwalk Trail nk K l Stryker 89 Cut Ba A cold brew from the Northern Lights Saloon. kilometers) of hiking trails. While just a few L along the Tobacco River, then take your hun-

Refined tastes of residents and visitors are fueling a robust U z St. Mary a Off-the-grid and a long haul from asphalt, Falls glaciers remain, the park’s majestic landscape ger uptown to Café Jax. P Going-to-the-Sun Road EA local-food movement. Farmers markets are found throughout C Polebridge shows you a favorite haunt of the is the product of massive ice sheets sculpting i E PA backcountry set and a little-used portal to ancient sea beds into rugged mountains and the region, integral to downtown summers in Fernie, Whitefish, RK 2 LO n Glacier National Park. emerald valleys starting two million years ago. O P C Cranbrook, and Missoula. Busy producer networks hustle ON Jackson T 464 Lake Lake McDonald IN Glacier s FOREST EN to meet popular demand at community-minded restaurants. D TA RESERVATION g McDonald A Lodge L DIV AMTRAK O IDE E Inspired by foodie groups like Nourish the Flathead and PEAS R N Blackfoot U Browning 2$ -S EBrowning Farm, young volunteers invest sweat equity in community gar- EOlney E h e H BOULDER GLACIER, GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MT, AUGUST 2007 DAN FAGRE AND GREG PEDERSON / USGS Dog Sled Adventures -T dens and greenhouses. Perennial favorites include Flathead O -T Travel at dog speed on a snow G IN Lake cherries, Dixon melons, Hutterite chickens, grass-fed beef, sled pulled by ten Alaskan huskies. O Mt. Stimson K10142 ft ne G 3091 m ici 49 ed and Taber corn. Residents are borderline obsessed by wild 2 z Going-to-the-Sun Road M o West Glacier E ; West Glacier An engineering marvel completed in 1932, w Climate Change, treasures: huckleberries, saskatoons, morel mushrooms, fresh- T West Glacier ; Change is glacial in this gateway village, Road closed in winter the cliff-hugging Going-to-the-Sun Road tra- ly caught trout, and venison. Belton Chalet where you can enjoy the same general store, M 93 verses the Continental Divide. If you’re there Community slice of life is served up daily at Chris’ Restaurant Whitefish saloon, restaurant, and service station that in spring, when snowplows clear the higher FLATHEAD Lake N have served park visitors since 1938. Two Medicine Grill in Crowsnest Pass and Two Medicine Café in East Glacier Park. 37 The Whitefish Trail E passes, cycle or walk the traffic-free lower Climate Solutions Stacked loops, scenic overlooks, and Wildflower Herbarium at Red Buses of Glacier East Glacier Park sections. See harlequin ducks ride the riffles National Park 2% Locals take their guests to Nina’s Hillside Garden in Kimberley rolling trails lead hikers and bikers Whitefish Library E of McDonald Creek, and spot grizzly bears Catch melting ice fields while you can by taking a Coram 89 and the Curry Bowl in Fernie. With an ethnic twist in Whitefish, Libby o through newly conserved lands. EWhitefish emerging amid the avalanche chutes. day climb to the receding Grinnell Glacier in Glacier 2@ Dam Garden Wall Inn, M O Tally Lake Downtown Whitefish Pescado Blanco N National Park. Once home to 150 glaciers, the park’s Pescado Blanco serves locally grown food from several farms. E T AMTRAK A Columbia P N E Hungry Horse O A 25 remnants are expected to be gone in a couple of In Bigfork and Kalispell, Sweet Peaks concocts strange, wonder- 40 Falls O S u C L Four Horns 2# 2 C E I BLACKFEET WARRIORS SCULPTURE, BLACKFEET RESERVATION, BROWNING, MT N ful ice creams with local ingredients and milk from Hutterite NATIONAL N decades. Drier woodlands fuel increasingly intense for- Montana Coffee Traders RBM Lumber, Inc. E Lake I C CHUCKHANEY.COM C F S L Learn conservation forestry A dairy farms. N O est fires, as evident in Waterton and Glacier National A O 2 from Roy, Ben, and their mom. T P l N Parks, Marias Pass, and Swan Valley. Lower summer n GLACIER PARK G O 44 Marias Pass LM DOWNTOWN WHITEFISH, MT INTL. AIRPORT a 5220 ft streamflows and warmer rivers require occasional fish- CHUCKHANEY.COM 1591 m 93 t Izaak Walton ing closures on the Blackfoot and Dearborn Rivers, less Inn E 2 Essex t 2# Montana Coffee Traders h irrigation water for ranchers in the heat of summer. FOREST 206 Tenderfoots might prefer these organic, fair- e The region has taken steps to curb carbon pollution, trade, shade-grown roasts to grounds boiled To T Great Falls including bans on oil drilling on the Rocky Mountain Kalispell Historic over a campfire, cowboy style. a a Moose's Saloon Walking Tour Inn Dupuyer Bed and Breakfast Front and a binational agreement to leave massive coal National Geographic and the people of Alberta, British Columbia, and Montana Sawdust covers the floor 2^ d Overnight in a centenarian seams underground in the transboundary North Fork but, please, no spitting. E GREAT homestead house. E present this Geotourism MapGuide to the Crown of the Continent region. Kalispell Ashley Lake M Dupuyer of the Flathead. Wind turbines spin by the hundreds Sweet Peaks i i d Lead project partners include National Geographic Maps and the Crown of the Ice Cream Hungry Horse d in southwestern Alberta. Biological fuels are produced le F Continent Geotourism Council, with regional coordination provided by Alberta Hike the cliffs above Kalispell to R o rk by Kyoto Fuels in Lethbridge and Algae AquaCulture view the and Flathead SouthWest Regional Alliance and the Whitefish Convention and Visitors Bureau. Glacier National Park. 93 Reservoir Echo Lake Cafe a Technologies in Columbia Falls. n Join the Swan Rangers here for Little n Bitterroot MONTANA breakfast before Saturday outings BEAR We gratefully acknowledge funding support for the reprint and redesign of this Lake E by boot, snowshoe, or ski. 2$ Browning E Kila g MapGuide from the following: Alberta SouthWest Regional Alliance; Central Montana Marion 82 Warrior sculptures welcome you to the s E e Regional Tourism; Glacier Country Regional Tourism; Kalispell Convention and Visitors Somers Sweet Peaks Blackfeet Reservation. Unfurl your bedroll 2 Bigfork E Ice Cream beside a crackling campfire, eat a traditional Bureau; Kootenay Rockies Tourism; Montana Office of Tourism; Southwest Montana 2& 2@ Downtown Whitefish Bigfork 209 meal of roast buffalo, and arrange a cultural FLATHEAD tour at Lodgepole Gallery and Tipi Village. Regional Tourism; and Whitefish Convention and Visitors Bureau. Inhale the sweet perfume of craft beer and 83 A Compare early and modern Indian art at the gourmet coffee in this railroad frontier town E Text by Steve Thompson; map notes by Angela Burnford, David Thomas, transformed into a ski and recreation hub Lakeside 2& Bigfork WILDERNESS Museum of the Plains Indian and Blackfeet FLATHEAD E and Steve Thompson 48° with nightlife, performing arts, and an array of Woods Bay Check out the artists and actors in Bigfork— Heritage Center. 48° top restaurants serving locally grown foods. a walker’s delight of galleries, eateries, and NATIONAL FOREST Bigfork Summer Playhouse on the north shore of Flathead Lake. Stroll the Nature 2^ Kalispell Historic Walking Tour Corridor on your own or in a group guided by Step into early 20th-century Main Street. local naturalists. The optimism of Kalispell’s pioneer boosters 2( Central Montana Birding Trails endures in the grand architecture of Hockaday Twelve birding routes in north-central Montana Museum of Art, Conrad Mansion, Museum at Rollins Flathead Swan E offer incredible diversity in geography and bird Central School, and the Grand Hotel. Lake ESwan Lake species. East and West mix here offering bird 2* watchers a special place to view an array of Teton S 3) Hot Springs species, in the Rocky Mountains, grasslands, 2( Central Montana What is Geotourism All About? The 1950s were its heyday, but the silky S prairies, dramatic cliffs, island mountain rang- Birding Trails Lake w es, lakes, prairie marshes, fens, and rivers. The people of the Crown of the Continent helped build this MapGuide by mineral waters of Hot Springs still attract 35 globe-trotters from afar. Symes Hotel and E w nominating the places and telling the stories of this region. A diverse regional Elmo a I Alameda’s Retreat provide hot baths and Swan NATIONAL KRocky Mountain alliance, the Crown of the Continent Geotourism Council, has formed to vintage comforts. Rose’s Plunge and Leroy’s 9392 ft n a 2863 m engage visitors and residents in strategies that sustain and enhance the Big Medicine offer day soaks near ancient E Indian pools. Big Arm

special qualities of this transboundary region. 28 M n

LEWIS AND Visit crownofthecontinent.natgeotourism.com to learn more about

the Crown of the Continent and this spectacular landscape. 93 i KSwan Peak

9289 ft

FLATHEAD 2831 m C

Copyright © 2016 National Geographic Partners, LLC, Washington, D.C. NATIONAL O

s ALBERTA WIND FARM, PINCHER CREEK, AB N GARTH LENZ E T GEOGRAPHIC and Yellow Border Design are trademark R I Polson N Lonepine E E N CLARK T BOB A L L s

D i R a I t V

t I

l D e E Pablo B N Gibson Sun i i Reservoir i t n Reservoir t Alberta 115° Hot Springs e E r MISSION 3# Augusta r v o NATIONAL The Old West lingers in Augusta’s cow 3) o EPablo FOREST British Columbia Hot Springs t o g e country saloons such as the Buckhorn Bar, RED BUSES ON GOING-TO-THE-SUN ROAD, MT where backcountry wranglers swap tales with Montana CAROL POLICH MARSHALLS r cowboys and visitors. But mosey over to the e . n INDIAN F Latigo & Lace cappuccino bar and art gallery, o 9356 ft r and you’re in a different era, pardner. a. Swan Valley Connections KHolland Peak 3@ k x Swan Valley Connections MTS. 3! 2852 m E ECondon F Ronan FOREST The Swan River Valley preserves its uncom- V M la 21 MISSION O th N ea mon beauty thanks in part to Swan Valley T d A Augusta 3# E Connections in Condon, where residents N Augusta a A

S

support public agencies and private property C R

E owners in sustainable management of their l N 287 I 382 C WILDERNESS

Crown of the L lands. Accredited college courses, youth pro- 212 O grams, and natural history experiences are TRIBAL l O Holland Lake Lodge P a Since 1924, this log resort has KUna Mt. offered. Trail maps and wildlife information MOUNTAINS Holland 8580 ft LOBBY OF LAKE MCDONALD LODGE, GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MT are available at the visitor center. Ninepipe Res. e Lake been a scenic base for nature 2615 m CHUCKHANEY.COM hikes to Holland Falls. S y 83 Continent n RESERVATION 93 EMoiese WILDERNESS g

WILDERNESS F la NATIONAL SCAPEGOAT th ea d BISON e 2% Red Buses of Glacier National Park ESt. Ignatius EDixon RANGE LOLO KScapegoat Mountain Board one of Glacier National Park’s fleet 200 9202 ft of 33 soft-top tour buses introduced in 2805 m the 1930s to shuttle sightseers over the E Continental Divide. The original red buses built Ravalli by White Motor Company were restored as NATIONAL a gift by Ford Motor Company, which fitted them with stronger chassis and clean burning 3% Elk Country Visitor Center 3@ Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex WILDERNESS propane engines. The Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation’s visitor By horse or by backpack, explore these 1.5 Seeley center celebrates the conservation of public Lake FOREST million acres (607,000 hectares) of road- wildlands, working ranches, and forests where less, wild nature. Dozens of outfitting busi- elk herds can thrive. The autumn bugling of nesses provide backcountry adventures under E lustful bulls is a call to arms for hunters seek- Seeley Lake 3$ Seeley Lake Forest Service permit. The complex includes ing winter meat and trophy antlers. EArlee the Great Bear, the Bob Marshall, and the Scapegoat Wilderness areas, all contiguous. HELENA 93 9411 ft Red Mountain 2868 m K

3$ Seeley Lake NATIONAL Gus, the world’s largest larch tree, dominates hiking and cross-country ski trails at Girard RATTLESNAKE Grove near Seeley Lake. In town, Grizzly Claw Trading Company offers native artifacts, WILDERNESS crafted leather and furs, and fine art produced EOvando FOREST 90 E by local artisans. Blackfoot Challenge 3& Frenchtown 113° WEST SHORE STATE PARK, FLATHEAD LAKE, MT 47° CHUCKHANEY.COM 47° High Country Lodging Lincoln 3* ELincoln Afternoon tea, British style, and a dream view greet you 200 B ot Missoula Aerial Fire Depot and Elk Country lackfo at the Prince of Wales Hotel at the foot of Waterton Lake. Smokejumper Visitor Center Visitor Center Grandiose and cozy, Many Glacier Hotel provides Swiss- MISSOULA INTL. G 3% AIRPORT style respite after a day hiking slope-side trails, or cruising by wooden boat, red bus, or horseback. Jiggle the piano 200 Missoula Carousel and 3^E Caras Park 3& Blackfoot Challenge amidst hand-hewn pillars at Lake McDonald Lodge. Grand Missoula 141 Visit this interpretive center in tiny Ovando to 93 hotels of the railway tradition are strung across 60 miles 3^ Missoula Carousel and Caras Park learn how ranchers, anglers, and public agen- E 3* Lincoln 12 Helmville along Glacier National Park’s southern boundary: Belton Ride one of 38 wooden ponies carved to restore cies allied to save 80,000 acres (32,000 hect- Gateway to the Scapegoat Wilderness, this 1918 carousel, while hearing a 400-pipe C la ares) from exurban sprawl in the Blackfoot Lincoln is nestled among stately old pines Chalet, Izaak Walton Inn, and Glacier Park Lodge in East organ play notes directed by perforations in rk F watershed. Next door, learn about the old in the upper Blackfoot Valley. View a stuffed o Glacier Park. continuous paper rolls. From here, explore funky r 830-pound (376-kilogram) grizzly bear at the k days at the Brand Bar Museum. downtown Missoula or stroll trails along the 90 Lincoln Ranger Station. Then calm your pulse Visit an ancient cedar rain forest for rigorous hiking, . EClinton at the Lincoln Log Hotel, a refuge favored by cross-country skiing, and refined dining at Island Lake participants in winter’s Race to the Sky sled 12 ELolo 114°W dog race. Lodge in Fernie. In the Porcupine Hills surrounded by 2* Flathead Lake 93 prairie, Dames on the Range wrangle horses and wildflow- . . Preserving the clarity of Flathead Lake from geo tour ism (n): Tourism that contamination by industry, agriculture, or care- ers along Alberta’s Cowboy Trail at Lucasia Ranch, Oxley sustains or enhances the geographical character of a less recreation is a Montana obsession. The Ranch, Sierra West Cabins, and Chimney Rock Bed and state maintains 12 parks and anglers’ access place—its environment, culture, Breakfast. Settle downtown Whitefish as a small-town aesthetics, heritage, and the points to the largest body of fresh water in well-being of its residents. OVERLOOKING HIDDEN LAKE IN GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MT STEVEN GNAM the contiguous western United States. sophisticate at the Garden Wall Inn.