DIAGNOSTIC STUDY of AARI TARI CLUSTER (ZARDOZI WORK ) In JAIPUR
British actress and model Elizabeth Hurley or Liz Hurley turned up at a charity bash in New York in a pale pink and green green sari, made by Aari tari (Zardozi) artisans from Jaipur . This art has crossed all borders and becoming a part of celebrities wardrobe sari, made by Aari Tari
Submitted to Commissioner of Industries Government of Rajasthan , Jaipur
Kamtech Associates Pvt. Ltd (ISO 9001:2000 Certified Company) 218-307, Shri Gopal Tower, Near Ahinsa Circle, C- Scheme, Jaipur-302001, INDIA Phone -0091-141-2377559, Fax. 0091-141-2371308 Global Consultants E-mail: [email protected] www.kamtechassociates.com
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
It is a great pleasure for us to present this diagnostic study report on AARI TARI CLUSTER (ZARDOZI WORK) which has its roots from the Mugal era and today has approx 25,000 families of artisans working in this work mostly concentrated in Ghat Gate, Ramganj, Chaar Darwaja, Bas Bandanpura, Brahmpuri, Ramgarh More and adjoining areas. Of all the crafts of the country, Zardozi seems to have flourished and survived to the present day like few others.
Today several families have revived this old craft to supply exquisite zari embroidered bridal outfits and salwar kameezes to boutiques around the country. These days it is used to make exquisite evening dresses, coats, fashion accessories like purses, handbags, belts, shoes; ceremonial adornments like badges and insignia; furnishing accessories like cushion covers, wall hangings and boxes etc.
We wish to offer our sincere thanks to all the artisans and show room owners specially M/s Rana Sarees and Mr. Hazi Abdula of National Embroidery Zari works a veteran of this art and other showroom owners and artisans who have given inputs and contributed directly to in terms of providing the information and data for this cluster study.
We are also thankful to office of the Commissioner of Industries for awarding us the diagnostic study, which is going to be very important for future planning for this sector.
Document ID KA/06-07/CI/ATZ Category Confidential Prepared by Kalpana Gupta Checked by Ajay K Gupta Date 16.02.2007
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S.NO. CONTENT PAGE NO. 1 INTRODUCTION OF CLUSTER 1.1 Cluster at a glance 4 1.2 Aim of Cluster 6 1.3 Historical Background 8 1.4 Cluster Map 9 1.5 Main Activities 11 1.6 Industry Analysis 13 1.7 Main Turning Point 20 1.8 Social Structure 21 1.9 Geographical Spread 21 1.10 Process for Diagnostic Study 22
2 THE PRESENT INFRASTRUCTURE AND SWOT ANALYSIS 2.1 Available Infrastructure 23 2.2 Marketing & Distribution Channel 23 2.3 The Contribution of Cluster in Local Economy 24 2.4 The Stake Holders of Cluster 25 2.5 SWOT Analysis 26
3 THE ACTION PLAN FOR CLUSTER DEVELOPMENT 3.1 The Main Problems of Cluster 29 3.2 Suggestive Elements 30 3.3 Available Information Channel 32 3.4 Proposed Action Plan 32
4 PROPOSED WORKING PLAN WITH FLOW CHART 4.1 Working Plan With Budget 35 4.2 Flow Chart 37 4.3 Expected Outcome 38 4.4 Implementing Agency 38 4.4 Executive Summary of Diagnostic Study 39
5 PHOTOGRAPHS 40 6 REFERENCES 46 7. SURVEY FORM 47
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1. INTRODUCTION OF CLUSTER
1.1 Cluster at a glance
“Clusters” are sectoral and geographical concentrations of enterprises, which produce and sell a range of related or complementary products and are, thus, faced with common challenges and opportunities. These concentrations give rise to external economies (such as the emergence of specialized suppliers of raw materials and components or the growth of a pool of sector-specific skills) and favor the emergence of specialized services in technical, managerial, and financial matters.
Aari Tari , Zari, Gota, Kinari & Zardozi
Aari-Tari (Zardozi), it is the art of making beautiful embroidery with gold or silver 'taars' or thin wires.
Jaipur , wrapped in the mystique, enhanced with the romance of fabled crafts, has one of the finest traditions of embroidery in the world. It has long been known for its embroidery with gold and silver threads called Zari.
Zardozi the traditional art of court embroidery is the sheer magic of nimble fingers and imaginative designs, envisaged by the ensemble of lustrous metallic wire which was traditionally the silver wire coated/plated with gold, silk threads, beads and stones. Zari is gold, and zardozi embroidery is the glitteringly ornate, heavily encrusted gold thread work practiced in Jaipur and a few other cities of India. To most foreigners - used to sleek, understated wear - the north Indian bride’s lehanga, choli and dupatta, heavily embroidered with gold and silver threads comes as a visual shock. Either real silver thread, gold-plated thread or an imitation which has a
Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 5 - copper base gilded with gold or silver colour, is used for zari.
Traditionally made for Mughal and Rajput nobility, it has now been officially adopted as bridal wear by anyone who can afford it. Of course, the days of using real gold and silver thread are now history. What you can get, however, is synthetic or ‘tested’ zari embroidery.
Aari Tari is done primarily by the Muslim cobbler community in Jaipur. The designs are of Mughal origin but modernized with the time since the art was at one time patronized by them. By using subtle gradations of color the figures and motifs in the designs can be highly representational. Aari at times is also called zari work.
In Jaipur mostly Muslim work women work in this art on job work basis . The show room owners who ultimately sell these exotic products give the work through the agents who then get these various work done by artisans in the areas. Today has approx 25,000 families of artisans working in this work mostly concentrated in Ghat Gate, Ramganj, Chaar Darwaja, Bas Bandanpura, Brahmpuri, Ramgarh Mode, and adjoining areas.
The U.P, Bihar, and Bengali families have now adopted this art and mostly work in Jaipur spread in outskirt colonies as well. Of all the crafts of the country, Zardozi seems to have flourished and survived to the present day like few others. The art which earlier only the rich could afford , today has become affordable by a common man who can buy any fashion product made of Aari taari or Zari as low as Rs.100/-
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1.2 Aim of Cluster
Jaipur is well known for its age-old form of Aari Tari and heavy Zari work (earlier patronized by Rajputs and Mughals for upper class women fashion wear). Today the main market for this art is also higher range sarees, bridal sarees, bridal wear, and any fashion items with lot of glitter and statement. The real profit is pocketed by the show room owners and these artisans are surviving meager income.
The diagnostic study conducted by us identified an unexploited capacity for the traditional artisan’s family and more and more new families which are joining this traditional art which is flourishing due to increased business and more and more innovative usages in other products.
Presently the work is mostly distributed through agents of the show rooms and exporters who pocket the large profits where as the artisans sometimes don’t get even their hard work day labor due to so called rejections in the name of quality.
The vision and action plan to be developed for the cluster envisaged the functionally designed common facilities center having facility of Adda and work tables, raw material procurement services and new designs. Provisions for storage of raw material and finished goods along with sales counters and business transactions will also be made. Such a center will attract business service providers who can transact business more efficiently with units operating from a common functional area. Likewise health and hygiene conditions would improve once the living and working areas are separated in a carefully planned way. Apart from this there will be space to accommodate probable growth of the firms over the next decade.
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“This Cluster will establish itself in the international and high-end domestic market for its eco-friendliness and ethnicity of the products.”
The aim of the cluster is envisaged the revelation of the traditional form of production and the improvement of the living standards of the artisans by:
Creating an environment of mutual trust among competing.
Reducing the cluster disarticulation (i.e. lack of linkages among the different cluster actors).
Enhancing the design, usage of new glittering items in the zari and marketing capacity of the artisans .
Designed training course.
Improvement in living standard
Technology Up gradation for ergonomically designed Addas and work tables and hand sewing fixtures for productivity improvement
Vision of the Cluster The long-run vision for the Aari Taari of Jaipur should be as: “ The Aarti Taari industry of Jaipur will establish itself in the international and high-end domestic market for its ethnicity and usages in variety of fashion articles ”. Backward linkages in the form of availability of working capital, infrastructure support, technical development and enterprising organisations will strengthen the process.
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1.3 Historical Background
Zardozi is an ancient Persian embroidery form (Zar in Persian means gold and Dozi is embroidery) that has been passed down for generations. It reached its peak under the patronage of Mughal Emperor Akbar. It saw a decline during the reign of Aurangzeb as the royal patronage and favor stopped and the art was too expensive and the precious metals too rare to carry on.
The rarity of precious metal led to the use of copper with gold or silver polish or the silk thread. Now the embroidery style is back in bloom. It is a must for any Indian wedding trousseau.
The historical accounts of this craft are shrouded in romantic stories and no accurate data is available. An imperial craft brought to India by Delhi's first Turko-Afghan sultans in the 12th century, zardozi became equally popular with the wealthy Hindu, Muslim and European elite down the ages. History says that from the 13th century, the craftspeople who worked with this medium, setting seed pearls and precious stones with fine gold and silver wire, were known as zardos workers.
During the reign of the Rajputs, Aari tari artisans were called in Jaipur from Agra and it was then that this work gained popularity among the Rajput Emperors as well. So, with the onset of time the art of Aari tari started gaining popularity among the masses and today its ethnicity is well-known in all sections of the society.
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1.4 Cluster Map
Banks/ Local Shiny stones, beads, money lenders coweries, sequins, zari, 25,000 sitara & plastic beads C Suppliers families O doing Contractors N S Aari tari H S Raw material (zardozi) O U Cloth from W M in Jaipur. Direct Buyers Delhi & Jaipur. R E O R O Through Exhibitions M and Online via S Internet Present Cluster
In the present scenario, local shopkeepers having retail outlets, agents and exporters are ruling the markets; the artisans depend on their orders and virtually having job work style of functioning. In many cases even the fabric is given by the buyer and the artisans only perform the zari work or say Aari tari work as per the buyers orders and get paid marginally only to survive.
The artisans neither have finances nor market in hand so as to invest in this business, which they have inherited from their forefathers. The traders mostly control the trade and agents and the artisans do not have any stake.
The present practices cannot be called or termed as organized cluster, only the chain of agents or traders having their permanent artisans who work for them for their job orders the scene.
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Main Locations: Ghat gate, Ramganj market, Char Darwaja, Brahmpuri Ramgarh More, Bas Badan pura S. No. Facility Details 1 Roads Well connected Bus stand – 2-3 Kms.
2 Railway station Jaipur junction – 4-5 Kms. 3 Raw material From Jaipur ( local market), Delhi and Barelli 4 Finished good Jaipur ( Johari bazaar, Lal ji sand ka Rasta), Delhi 5 Transport Transport nagar (Jaipur) - 3 Kms. 6 Banks Mostly available in the areas 7 Water, Electric supply Regular
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1.5 Main Activities
The entire process of Aari Taari is summarized under:
1.5.a Designing
Earlier the designs used to be very Mughal in nature, comprising of floral and leaf patterns derived from that era. With modern influences, the patterns have changed. More and more geometric designs are used but flowers, petals and leaves still find their place. The design is first traced on a tracing sheet and holes are made along the traced pattern using a needle.
1.5.b. Tracing
The fabric on which the embroidery is to be done is placed on a flat table and the tracing sheet is placed in position. A solution of kerosene and Robin blue is made. A wad of cloth is dipped into this solution and wiped against the tracing so that the ink seeps through the holes to trace the design onto the fabric. This is then sent to the embroidery workers.
1.5.c. Setting the Adda/Frame
The fabric to be embroidered is stretched taut over a frame called the ADDA. This concept has evolved from a knockdown camp bed called the khatia used in rural areas. The adda follows the assembly and tightening principles of the khatia, and gives the cloth a uniform tension. It consists of four wooden spars (sometimes, bamboo is used for the end members) resting on wooden posts. The frame can be made to fit any size of fabric.
The artisan sits on the floor behind the wooden frame working on the piece of cloth. The frame itself is quite large, and can comfortably accommodate five to seven artisans working together on the pre-traced designs.
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1.5.d. The Embroidery
A simple needle or a crochet like hook fixed to a wooden stick called the ARI are used for the embroidery. The word aari comes from the hooked needle used in the embroidery called the aar. It is similar to the one used in crochet. The aari greatly enhances the speed of the work, as it enables the artisan to pass the threads both above and below the fabric. The ari has its disadvantages though. One tug at a loose thread can spell disaster to the entire design as it can unravel in a matter of minutes. The needle and thread method is far more dependable, but is very time and labor consuming, and hence far more expensive.
The fabric is first fixed over the frame often made of bamboo. The pattern is traced on it and the embroidery work begins. A needle with a hooked end and Zari (gold or silver) or cotton or silk thread are used. Aari looks like a fine chain stitch. The needle is pushed through the fabric. From behind, thread is pushed into the hook. When the needle is pulled up again, it comes up with a loop. The next time, the needle goes through the loop and comes up with another loop through the previous loop. The same process is repeated. The stitches are very fine and small. All kinds of combinations are used to add to the grandeur of zardozi. A little bit of thread work here or a few sequins or semi precious stones added there, can make the fabric appealing while giving it a unique exclusivity.
If the design is smaller, then a smaller metal frame can also be used instead of the wooden planks. This is much more comfortable when the embroidery is to be focused in a particular area of fabric.The smallest work takes a day to be completed and the most exclusive can take up to ten days. Each piece is charged per design and the material used. For bridal wear, the embroidery is usually very intricate and neatly done with the finest dabka, coweries and stones. For such work, the embroidery could cost as much as Rs. 10,000-15,000/-.
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1.6 Industry Analysis
Jaipur , wrapped in the mystique, enhanced with the romance of fabled crafts, has one of the finest traditions of embroidery in the world. It has long been known for its embroidery with gold and silver threads called Zari. Zari is gold, and zardozi embroidery is the glitteringly ornate, heavily encrusted gold thread work.
Today several families have revived this old craft to supply exquisite zari embroidered bridal outfits and salwar kameezes to boutiques around the country. These days it is also being used to make exquisite evening dresses, coats, fashion accessories like purses, handbags, belts, shoes; ceremonial adornments like badges and insignia; furnishing accessories like cushion covers, wall hangings and boxes etc. Of all the crafts of the country, Zardozi seems to have flourished and survived to the present day like few others.
REGIONS BEST KNOWN FOR ZARDOZI WORK IN INDIA
• Jaipur • Agra • Delhi • Farrukhabad • Jammu, Kashmir • Kolkata • Lucknow • Varanasi • Hyderabad
Zardozi Embroidery
Zardozi the imperial metal embroidery adorned the costumes of the royalty, wall hanging, scabbards, walls of the regal tents and the rich trappings of elephants and horses. Intricate patterns in gold and silver, studded with pearls and precious stones enhanced the beauty of rich and glowing silk, velvet, and brocade.
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Process Stitches and Styles
Zardozi, a more elaborate version of zari, involves the use of gold threads, spangles, beads, seed pearls, wire, gota and kinari. Metal ingots are melted and pressed through perforated steel sheets, to be converted into wires. They are then hammered to the required thinness. Plain wire is called badla, and when wound round a thread, it is called kasav. Smaller spangles are called sitara, and tiny dots made of badla are called mukaish.
Akin to applique, gota work involves placing woven gold cloth onto other fabric to create different surface textures. Kinari, or edging, as the word suggests, is the fringed or tasseled border decoration. This art is predominantly practiced by Muslim craftsmen.
The zari thread or the metallic thread is quite commonly used in this style of embroidery. It is done with colored thread as well using color gradations to make the motifs and figures highly representational.
Zari embroidery is done with a crochet hook using the metallic thread and appears like chain stitch. Zardozi is an extension of the same. Zari elements like coiled wire, dabka, tilla, beads etc are used to create the motifs. Zardozi can alternatively be called metallic applique embroidery.
The most prevalent zardozi elements segments of dabkaa, a tightly wound spiral metal, Kora, a heavier and darker dabkaa a square sided dabkaa that is wiry and erratic in appearance, sitaaras, round sequins, glass and plastic beads and kasab, silver or gold-plated silver thread.
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The process involves tracing out the design on the cloth preferably rich fabrics like silk, satin, velvet, chiffon etc. The fabric is stretched over the wooden frame and the embroidery work begins. Each zardozi element is picked up by the needle and incorporated appropriately into the pattern by pushing the needle in the fabric.
The process of creating zari threads and zardozi elements was rather complicated earlier. It needed a lot of patience and precision. Today the modern means may have made the task a little easier but still the adeptness and delicate handling remains the same.
Zardozi and zari garments have become very popular and make elegant evening and ceremonial ware. The art is now being used for soft furnishing products also.
Thousands of master craftsmen create Zari articles with other establishments on all kind of fabrics and costumes which are adorned by connoisseurs both in India & abroad works can not describe the rich beauty of this exquisite work.
Zari Sarees
India has long been known for its golden thread of zari. Even in the ancient times, zari was known to adorn the attire of Gods and thus holds a distinguished place among all the crafts. The same heavenly feel is brought alive for in the form of a never before ethnic Indian zari sarees range.
A superbly crafted and rich collection comprising mainly of Banarasi sarees with heavy zari work, the wedding zari saris have intricate embroidered patterns highlighted with embroidery material like stars and spangles, chalak, kinari, salma etc.; which give a new definition to the golden and silver wires that form the base of Zari.
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Artisans: Nargis, Seema parvani, Saira bano Ari-tari work on salwar suit Address: Koyale walo ki gali, Ramgang market, Jaipur Monthly income: Rs.2000.00 to 2500.00
The artisans here in Jaipur are experts in making embroidered Indian sarees in resham, gota patti, zari, gold & silver threads work to give you a never before collection of embroidered fancy.
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Artisans: Mrs. Musbir bano w/o Jakir hussain working with Mojari (Jutiya)Ari-tari work Address: Koyale walo ki gali, Ramgang market, Jaipur Monthly income: Rs.3100.00 to Rs. 3300.00
Artisans: Mr. Ishad Bhai & other artisans working with Mojari (Jutiya) Address: 307,Koyale walo ki gali, Ramgang market, Jaipur Monthly income: Rs. 4000.00 to Rs. 4200.00
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Zari Juties In Jaipur, Aari tari work has been done on Juties since the Mughal era. This work was initially done by the Muslim artisans. At present this work is mainly done by Muslim women. There’s no such special training given to these workers it is carried forward from generation to generation.
Needles to say that Zari items are 100% exportable. According to a rough assessment about 250-300 Delhi, Bombay & Jaipur based suppliers are engaged in exporting this especiality of Jaipur to many foreign countries like Germany, U.S.A. & West Asia etc., amounting to nearly Rs. 50 millions.
Raw materials Procurement
Medium selection (E.g. Sari, salwar suit, cloth)
Selection of Design
Framing on Carchope (looming)
Making a design block on medium
Put on block size e.g. (tikki, stone, tari, sitara)
Croshieya ( Ari- needle) stitching
Finishing
Product is ready for sale
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The zardozi thread comes in long curled strips of shiny gold wire and is sold by weight. It has to be cut to size depending on the design. A variety of materials are used for the embroidery : zari, sequins, coweries, beads, shiny stones that look like diamonds, dabka, sitara. They are all purchased from the local market. All these embellishments are generally bought in bulk and stored for later use.
The artisans buy ordinary raw materials directly but in less quantity as they do not have enough money to purchase these materials in bulk. The raw materials are easily available in areas like Ram Ganj & Char Darwaza.
Tools Used
Frame/Adda : This is a wooden or metal frame over which the cloth is pulled tightly, so that it doesn’t move while the artisans are at work. This also enables faster movement and clear vision. It generally costs up to Rs. 1200-1500.
Needle: The embroidery is done with a needle. A hooked awe kind of needle called ari can be used, or a simple stitching needle. The needle used is the smallest available, generally numbered nine. But it could depend on the design and the thread used. The hooked needle costs Rs. 15-25 whereas simple needle costs Rs. 3-5 per needle.
Scissors: A pair of scissors is an essential tool of the workers involved in the embroidery. It is required time and again to cut the threads and loose ends. It costs around Rs. 60-70.
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1.7 Main Turning Point
By the end of the Mughal era, the art declined because of its high cost and the lack of precious metals for the purpose of embroidery. It was again revived in the twentieth century.
Today, like everything else zardozi also has its limitations : being sold in the market at a much cheaper cost, made out of copper and brass wires plated with gold. The latest additions are colored zardozi with a plastic base. Far more pocket friendly, this new zardozi lasts longer and is lighter to wear.
At times the base fabrics have plastic replacements in place of what was pure gold and the motifs are so far removed from the original, that the product does not resemble what had at one time bedazzled visitors to the royal courts of India. The days of using real gold and silver threads are now history. What one can get however, is synthetic or ‘tested’ zari embroidery. The richness of gold may no longer grace the work of zardozi craftsman, but the glitter and glamour endures – hopefully it will for the years to come. Zardozi is as tenacious as the wires the craftsmen work with.
In the mean time exporters and the boutique owners were able to recapture some of the market intelligence that was lost by the artisans during the transition from local to national and international markets.
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1.8 Social Structure
The cultural environment of Rajasthan, the colours associated with the people’s traditional costumes and the designs related to the diversity of their local customs, behavior and broadly to the caste system then, all led the society to observe distinctions. However, these distinctions have over the last several decades gone into oblivion.
The Aari tari work has a very old history of creating sheer magic of nimble fingers and imaginative designs also termed as zardozi. The artisans of Jaipur or even those settled here from various parts of Northern and Western India, have gracefully carried forward this traditional art form, over successive generations.
There are about 25,000 families each engaged in traditional zardozi work. The industry continues to be based around the families. All the members of family find themselves engaged in their respective units in one way or the other.
1.9 Geographical Spread
Jaipur has remained a centre of historical prominence for Aari tari work. Presently Ghat gate, Ramganj market, Char Darwaja, Brahmpuri, Ramgarh More and Bas Badan pura
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1.10 Process for Diagnostic Study
For this diagnostic study following methodology was adopted: Collecting the data about the Aari tari traditional art
• Meeting the artisans and Surveys • Studying the international Markets • Colleting the data from various Government and Non Government sources. • Compilation of data • Scrutinizing of data • Selection of relevant data • Report writing
Identification of cluster & objective of the study
Preparation of format & data sheet (survey form)
Data collection & fieldwork
Interview, fieldwork, & survey
Analysis of data
Selection of relevant data
Report writing
Process for diagnostic study
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2 .THE PRESENT INFRASTRUCTURE AND SWOT ANALYSIS
2.1 Available Infrastructure .
This art is survived by traditions inherited from the forefathers and the artisans who are working in this area are mostly as family traditional business and there have not been any substantial infrastructure investments whatever the traditional ways equipment and tools, there has not been any up gradations and the process is still mostly manual with ancient methods.
All the artisans in Jaipur work in their houses itself and this business has not yet been able to come under the industry tag. So, there is NO INFRASTRUCTURE till now.
2.2. Marketing & distribution channel
There are two types of markets viz. Domestic and Export. In the domestic and export markets, the traders based in the local market of Jaipur and in Delhi, market the product. The artisans do the work on the fabric supplied to him.
The distribution channel which connects the production channels to the market are different for different buyers whom we can define in three broad categories of Domestic Buyer, foreign buyer and foreign tourist buyer.
Exposure of artisans to High-end Domestic Market: The domestic market includes areas like Johri Bazar, Chaura Rasta, Ghat Gate etc. Some major showrooms which are directly linked with the artisans are Rana Saree Centre, Rooplaxmi, Nikhar , Pratap Sons, Sindoori, Indra lok, Amardeep, Suruchi saree emporium, Kala Mandir, Roop Milan etc.
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Marketing at International Level: Targeting of markets, training for Export Marketing and participation in International trade fairs .
2.3 The Contribution of Cluster in local Economy
Evidence suggests that in an increasing global economy, efficient local business systems (clusters or industrial districts) tend to play a major role.
Cluster’s main concentration focused largely on local economy within a relatively limited geographical area. It’s improved the performance of artisans. Nearly 70% of the work is done by the people of the Muslim community and rest 30% includes artisans who are Bengali, Bairwa, Bihari or Bareilley.
It speeds up the dissemination of best practices because of the pervasiveness of demonstration effect, and allows for a distribution of the fixed costs of interventions among a large number of beneficiaries.
Cluster provides employment, one of the most basic need of people and holds importance; helps maintain sustained growth for improving quality of life, positions as a self-reliant industry, from the production of raw materials to the delivery of finished products, with substantial value-addition at each stage of processing; and contributes in growth of the local economy .
It also give rise to external economies (e.g. specialized suppliers of raw materials, specific skills etc.).Favor the emergence of specialized technical, administrative and financial services. Create a conducive ground for the development of inter firm
Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 25 - cooperation and specialization as well as of cooperation among public and private local institutions to promote local production, innovation and collective learning.
Development of efficient and effective linkages between producers, buyers, suppliers, service providers, technical and financial support institutions is essential.
Some effects of cluster in local Economy are as follows: Economic stability for the poor families objectives Reduce dependence on expensive moneylenders Facilitate access to financial services Build entrepreneurial and technical skills of the rural poor Generate employment, especially for women Increase the productivity Direct access to the growing local and International market
2.4. The Stakeholders of Cluster
Artisans Show Room owners Raw material suppliers Domestic Buyer Foreign Buyer Buying Agents
Exporters
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2.5 SWOT Analysis
Strengths: 1. A heritage craft practiced by centuries in this region. Artisan Traits are available in the artisans since time immemorial. 2. Availability of a large number of artisans at the same place. 3. Skills of the people. 4. Ethnic designs and associated reputation. 5. Direct contacts with show room owners and with the exporters. 6. Variety of glittering threads and other items replacing the precious metal threads like gold and silver. 7. Increasing Marriage market economics and variety of sarees and designer fabric being used for Zardozi.
Weakness:
1. Lack of enough space in cities, the Aari Tari workers mostly ladies work in small rooms in old city where adequate light or ventilations is lacking. 2. More and more workers are joining this profession mostly from Bihar and Bengal community thus effecting the daily average earnings of the individual artisan. 3. They are no ways to improve the designs according to the latest trends. 4. Lack of Organizational skills. 5. Lack of financial resources leading the artisans to become dependent on the the show room owners. 6. Poor marketing skills, and non access to direct market, organized players like showroom owners and exporters only earn the real money where as these artisans don’t even some time get the basic daily labor. 7. Lack of R & D for upgrading production process. 8. Lack of Quality assurance mechanism.
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9. No – Government Policy & No set Infrastructure. 10. The difference between the selling price of the finished commodity and the actual price is too high. This surplus money goes into the hands of the showroom owners and this is the main reason behind the deprived condition of the artisans as they are paid very meager amounts in comparison to the tedious work they do. 11. Sometimes the showroom owners don’t pay the artisans at all by rejecting their designs and on the contrary sell those ‘rejected pieces’ at discounted rates in their showrooms. Due to this they are at loss as, the money they had spent to purchase the raw materials is spent from their pockets.
Opportunities:
1. World wide acceptance of the Aari tari (zardozi) products. 2. Growing local & International Market. 3. Easier access to world market through internet. 4. Availability of financial institutions, banks, and Government departments. 5. The Aari Tari (Zardozi) work is now increasingly used in other form of handicrafts industry like gift articles, purse, bags, designer jooties. Similarily there are variety of raw material combinations in plastic, metal and other glittering items which are increasing used in this art. 6. The increasing Indian Marriage market and thrust on costly Sarees, designer bride and bride groom wear, is adding more and more value added costly product using Aari tari ( Zardozi) art. Thus the local as well as export market is showing regular increase and there are good opportunity for the growth of this segment.
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Threats:
1. The traditional culture of the artisans and no standards in practice puts lot of pressure in the quality. The quality of fabric used in costly Zari Saree is very high and due to some or other reason incase some defect is observed after the Aari Tari is done then rejection is high. 2. Since the final products are very costly so the quality control, design, color, raw material used etc are need to be of consistent quality which is lacking presently at artisans end . 3. More and more migrating families joining this trade from Bengal particularly Kooch Bihar and other areas is increasing the pressure on the labor rates and quality. 4. The other cities like Bareilly, Hyderabad etc where this art is practiced since ages are also making a good presence in export market.
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3. THE ACTION PLAN FOR CLUSTER DEVELOPMENT
3.1 Main Problems and their Solutions in Cluster
S.No. Problems Suggested Solution 1. Lack of Marketing facilities Artisans should be provided marketing linkages, both in the local and International market. 2. Lack of Designs New market led designs, should be provided and there is an ample need of design development program. 3. There is no association/ The association or group formation federation of artisans and should be there for this Cluster with the artisans are unorganized help of government support can play a vital role. 4. Lack of organizational behavior The HRD training can improve the among the Aari tari (zardozi) organizational behavior skills of the workers members of the cluster. 5. There is no use of cost analysis Micro enterprise management (MEMT) method and due to the absence training is must. of cost analysis the artisans don’t get adequate value of their products 6. Lack of knowledge or export Cluster development Agency can and export market disseminate the expected knowledge and provide vital linkage for the export market 7. Raw material is available in Standard quality and specification at
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Jaipur or Delhi. reasonable prices and at the door steps of the artisans. 8. Lack of working capital Financial institutions, banks etc should finance these artisans. 9. No Infrastructure CFC can provide the common infrastructure support. 10. No franchise model A marketing society based franchise base model for nation wide marketing
The lack of communication among the artisans; The absence of an active association; Inadequate quality control capacity of the artisans Lack of design and marketing skills as the zardozi artisans had grown accustomed to working as sub-contractors for exporters. Inadequate access to credit.
3.2 Suggestive Elements
The Aari Tari industry is a well-diversified industry, on the basis of geographical location, method of production, working communities and also their access to the market.
These groups can be differentiated on the basis of their individual characteristics, priorities and requirements. The identified groups are
Aari Tari artisans located at Ghat Gate & Ramganj Bazar Aari Tari artisans located at Brahmpuri to Ramgarh Mode and Bas Badan pura. Artisans located in far flung slum colonies, Show room owners /Exporters located at Jaipur
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Initiating a program to bring them all under one umbrella may not be feasible at present because of their different priorities. Initially small focus groups can be identified with their common problems and requirements to solve their problems. With the level of confidence building up among them, the different groups could then be brought under a single umbrella.
Recommendations:
(i) Assuming that there are good prospects, there is a need to set up a mission to revive the old art and build up its market value and common brand image.
(ii) Making Aari Tari Zardozi as historic art and to make an application for getting the trademark “Jaipur Zardozi” registered and the process patent for this art.
(iii) Develop a pool of shop owners, exporters and agents for colleting the work in common platform and then distribute the work to the member artisans based on the skills sets and scientific costing method.
(iv) Develop a documented process for this art for consistence in the quality and then develop standard tool kits and frames which are ergonomically designed to give optimum output.
(v) Set raw materials sourcing as a common practice so that the raw materials prices are best bargained and the artisans can have credit cash flow type arrangement linked to their payment from the clients .
(vi) Encourage the setting up of a marketing co-operatives in the form of NGOs - comprising of some enlightened and dynamic artisans who are willing to co-
Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 32 - operate with each other. Entire aari tari members will be encourages to become member of this cooperative which would help to achieve economies of scale in terms of marketing and raw material sourcing.
(vii) Designs are the lifeline of this traditional industry. Compatible design inputs are badly required by this industry. A design centre with professional designers and CAD/CAM facility is also required.
(viii) Setting up of common facility centre ( CFC ) where from the raw material to market and technological interventions s above will be provided .
3.3. Available Information Channel
The artisans will directly approached and encouraged to become members and this cluster will be publicized mouth to mouth publicity and individual encouragement and announcing this formation of cluster by local news papers, through electronic media and support of the stake holders.
3.4. Proposed Action Plan
The main objective if this cluster is to convert the traditional work process into an industry cluster so that the artisans get regular employment and fixed wages.
1. The action plan guide by various enterprise networks and service providers in pushing the cluster towards a growth path with the adoption of modern techniques and management practices and all the efforts in the cluster will be made to have a market driven approach. The focus will be to have linkage for the artisans so that they rise from job worker to owner of the process and have a equally stake in the development of this art.
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2 The Cluster center(CFC) proposed as above will have all the information about the international markets, linkages and information regarding the latest in fashion trends in world will be compiled. Further through the usages of modern technical; and management practices, thrust will be on the have fasted changes in design, new material for use as silver and gold substitute so as to equip the artisans to changing environments for the latest fashion trends in the world.
3. COST ANALYSIS
There is lack of cost analysis system among the Aari tari workers. Due to the absence of the cost analysis the artisans are not getting the real benefit of their labor and they are just a labor. The real benefit goes to the middlemen or the showroom owners themselves.
This work of Aari tari is prevalent from time immemorial and they have been manufacturing zari zardozi sarees, salwar kameezes, kurtis, sherwanis, accessories like purses, jutis , some jewelry items etc.
The cost of the product is generally decided on the basis of the raw material used and added by the labor component. Normally the raw material part is 60-70% and the remaining is the labor incurred during the manufacturing of the products. In this way the major part of the profit goes to the middlemen and the showroom owners.
Due to the lack of knowledge and cost consciousness these artisans are cheated or not getting the real benefit of their craftsmanship. In the proposed CFC a work base cost analysis system will be provided to artisans so that they understand the profit concept and don’t end up in loss while working on the job based work.
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We are sure that with this proposed strategy and efforts not only the skill level of the artisans will improve but their managerial and entrepreneurial capacity will also be increased.
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4. PROPOSED WORKING PLAN WITH FLOW CHART
4.1 Working Plan with Budget
The cluster center will be started in any on the artisan’s place where two rooms will be taken from them in one room computer equipped with design software to have more and more innovative designs for Aari Tari will be installed with color design Plotter. The office will be connected with Internet.
Two Coordinators are proposed as the staff for this cluster, the role of one coordinator will be to collect the information for development of new technique for faster productions and the other coordinator will be working to develop international marketing for them. Initiating the documentation of the process and trademark and process patent registration.
The expert will also develop the franchise base model and will initiate giving franchise in the name of Zardozi having ready-made garments and accessories.
Out side experts will be involved for training and disseminations of industry best practices through regular programs and camps .
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Budget
S.No. Activities Amount (Rs.) A Fixed Expanses a. Computer, design software & plotter printer 1,00,000.00 b. Office furniture, telephone and internet 15,000.00 c Development of Aari Tari ( Zardozi) International Portal 50,000.00 d Selection of cluster agents and motivational training programs 30,000.00 say selection of 300 artisans and making a group of 50 artisan each and organizing awareness camps @Rs.5,000/- per camp e 1. Skill development Technical Trainings two training 60,000.00 @Rs.10,000/- per program 2.Market and finance related basics training two training @Rs.10,000/- per program 3. Training on communications and interaction with foreign buyers two training @Rs.10,000/- per program f Trade Mark registering and process patent application filing 50,000.00 For the Aari tari (Zardozi) Jaipur process ( basic documentations to the filing and legal issues g Development of ergonomically suitable Adda where four 50,000.00 artisans an work at a time on a long fabric and standardization of tool kit for this art. TOTAL 3,55,000.00 B Recurring Expanses (Annual) a. Participation in 2 national exhibition @50,000per exhibition 1,00,000.00 b. Two Coordinator @6000/- per month for one year 1,44,000.00 c. Stationary &Documentation 20,000.00 d. Travel & Communication Expenses 48,000.00 e. Notional rent of CFC for three years @Rs.4,000/- per 48,000.00 month TOTAL 3,60,000.00 GRAND TOTAL 7,15,000.00 Note: It is proposed to fund only one year recurring expanses other two years recurring expenses will be earned by the CFC by using facility charges from the artisans and making the CFC self reliant
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4.2 Flow Chart
Aari Tari cluster Jaipur (Three Months Plan of Action) for one year Q=Three Months S.No Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Activities 1 Selection of Cluster development agents 1.2 Formation of small groups 1.3 Awareness camps Capacity building 2 Starting Cluster office 2.1 Preparing training calendar 2.2 Organizing trainings 3 Technological up gradation and dissemination, Design and Product Development 3.1 Trainings on new design and processing 3.2 Trainings on innovative practices 3.3 Development of ergonomically suitable adda for comfortable working 3.4. Process Documentation for standardization 4 Marketing Support 4.1 Initiating Trade mark Registration with relevant agencies and Initiating process patent registration 4.2 Exposure to major national and international markets 4.3 Support participate in regular fairs 4.4 Linkages with financial institutions 4.5 Follow up and monitoring of groups
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4.3 Expected out come Enhanced managerial, technical, as well as entrepreneurial skills. Production of quality and diversified products. Application of advance technologies & methodologies. Rise in the number of new, independent and self-reliant entrepreneurs. Betterment in quality of life by raising their family income. Enable to catch up with the fast changing and demanding scenario.
Existing economy of scale
Presently 25,000 Aari tari artisan families Present Average monthly income Rs. 2500-4000/-
Income after the formation of Cluster
At least 20,000 Average monthly income will get substantially families will be increased or it may get doubled even in the benefited range of Rs.4,000/- to Rs.7,000/-
Implementing Agency:
Cluster development and CFC formation work will be carried out by Kamtech Associates and in one year time the operations of the CFC will be made self sustainable on the basis on usage charges. The management of CFC will be handed over to their CIG society which at present does not exist and will be formed by the implementing agency
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4.5 Executive Summary of Diagnostic Study
The Aari Tari is ancient and very unique art and It has origins from the Mughal Era. This art can only survive on the artists capability and imaginary of work.
During the diagnostic study and collecting the fields surveys , It has been noticed that this art has immense potential in terms of fashions post WTO . The artisans of Jaipur who have mastered this art now increasingly use new design and plastic threads besides its increasing adoptability on all types of fabric and for all usages from accessories, to women apparels etc.
The artisans lack in marketing and new designs innovative practices as for them the world market is distant dream and whatever the traders and middlemen demand they only cater to them mostly on job work basis. Like Khadi has been given as fashion fabric, zardozi work can also replicate as the fashion and design brands for the world post WTO.
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5. Photographs
Zardozi work on wedding suit (Lehnga, Choli & Duppata) Displaying at Rana’s Showroom
Aari-tari work on Mojari( Jutiya)
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Artisans: Safiya bano w/o mohamand sadiq & Isarat khan Ari-tari work on Saree Address: Koyale walo ki gali, Ramgang market, Jaipur Monthly income: 2500.00 to 2700.00
Artisans: Safiya bano & other artisans making design block on saree
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A zardozi purse
An exclusive zardozi kurti
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Purses and Ornaments made by Aari tari
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A sherwani with zardozi work
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6. REFERENCES:
1. Personal surveys and information compilations. 2. Visiting Show room owners Like Rana sarees, in Johri Bazar and Bapu Bazar area. 3. Internet Resources.
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7. SURVEY FORM
District Industries Centre Udhyog Bhawan, Jaipur
Cluster Diagnostic Study Aari-Tari (Zardozi work) Cluster Assessment at Jaipur City
Assessment form
General Information
Name of Artisans: Mr. /Mrs.…………………………………………………….. Present Address: Permanent Address:
………………………………… ……………………………. ………………………………… ……………………………. ………………………………… …………………………….
Phone No.: Mobile No.: Place of Reference:
Total family members:
No. of family members involved in activity:
Community:
(a) Bengali (b) Muslim (c) Hindu (d) Others
Years of involvement in this Activity Working Experience: (a) Is it family business (b) Started by Artisan’s Head (self)
Historical background, Aari-tari (Zarzodi work cluster):
Artisan view
Market view
Expert view
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Product name & Description
S. No. Product Name Description Used in (Work)
Specialty:
Source of training (details): (a) Are you trained (b) Getting training from trainer If you are trained, are you giving training to other Artisans? (Yes/ No)
Connectivity:
S. No. Transport Bus Stop Railway Market connectivity Row Material Finished Goods Distance
Raw material used in Zardozi.
Types of Raw materials
S. No. Name Used as Source Source Costing Place
Source: Self/ Supplier/Agent/ Agency/ Contractor
Work Estimates S. No. Stages Estimated Time Cost
Stages like: Design, media (base cloth), medium (gold/ silver/other)
Design Type S. No. Design Name Design Cost Made by Self Other
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Machinery and tools used in Aari-tari (Zarzodi) Work S. No. Machinery/ Tools Name Cost
Working Basis:
(a) Owned (b) Daily wages (c) On Contract
Finished goods market
Agent
Contractor
Company
Direct customer
Major Livelihood activity:
(a) Aari-tari (b) Other ……………….
Monthly income: S. No. Aari-tari activity Monthly Work Monthly Income
Available infrastructure
Activity Stakeholders
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Artisans
Raw material suppliers
Domestic Buyer
Foreign Buyers
Buying Agents & Contractor
Exporters
Banking & Finance Institution like SIDBI, NABARD
Government Organization like DIC
Training Institution eg. RUDA
Problems:
Opportunity:
Engaged in agencies/NGOs:
Remarks: