DIAGNOSTIC STUDY of AARI TARI CLUSTER (ZARDOZI WORK ) In JAIPUR British actress and model Elizabeth Hurley or Liz Hurley turned up at a charity bash in New York in a pale pink and green green sari, made by Aari tari (Zardozi) artisans from Jaipur . This art has crossed all borders and becoming a part of celebrities wardrobe sari, made by Aari Tari Submitted to Commissioner of Industries Government of Rajasthan , Jaipur Kamtech Associates Pvt. Ltd (ISO 9001:2000 Certified Company) 218-307, Shri Gopal Tower, Near Ahinsa Circle, C- Scheme, Jaipur-302001, INDIA Phone -0091-141-2377559, Fax. 0091-141-2371308 Global Consultants E-mail: [email protected] www.kamtechassociates.com Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 2 - ACKNOWLEDGEMENT It is a great pleasure for us to present this diagnostic study report on AARI TARI CLUSTER (ZARDOZI WORK) which has its roots from the Mugal era and today has approx 25,000 families of artisans working in this work mostly concentrated in Ghat Gate, Ramganj, Chaar Darwaja, Bas Bandanpura, Brahmpuri, Ramgarh More and adjoining areas. Of all the crafts of the country, Zardozi seems to have flourished and survived to the present day like few others. Today several families have revived this old craft to supply exquisite zari embroidered bridal outfits and salwar kameezes to boutiques around the country. These days it is used to make exquisite evening dresses, coats, fashion accessories like purses, handbags, belts, shoes; ceremonial adornments like badges and insignia; furnishing accessories like cushion covers, wall hangings and boxes etc. We wish to offer our sincere thanks to all the artisans and show room owners specially M/s Rana Sarees and Mr. Hazi Abdula of National Embroidery Zari works a veteran of this art and other showroom owners and artisans who have given inputs and contributed directly to in terms of providing the information and data for this cluster study. We are also thankful to office of the Commissioner of Industries for awarding us the diagnostic study, which is going to be very important for future planning for this sector. Document ID KA/06-07/CI/ATZ Category Confidential Prepared by Kalpana Gupta Checked by Ajay K Gupta Date 16.02.2007 Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 3 - S.NO. CONTENT PAGE NO. 1 INTRODUCTION OF CLUSTER 1.1 Cluster at a glance 4 1.2 Aim of Cluster 6 1.3 Historical Background 8 1.4 Cluster Map 9 1.5 Main Activities 11 1.6 Industry Analysis 13 1.7 Main Turning Point 20 1.8 Social Structure 21 1.9 Geographical Spread 21 1.10 Process for Diagnostic Study 22 2 THE PRESENT INFRASTRUCTURE AND SWOT ANALYSIS 2.1 Available Infrastructure 23 2.2 Marketing & Distribution Channel 23 2.3 The Contribution of Cluster in Local Economy 24 2.4 The Stake Holders of Cluster 25 2.5 SWOT Analysis 26 3 THE ACTION PLAN FOR CLUSTER DEVELOPMENT 3.1 The Main Problems of Cluster 29 3.2 Suggestive Elements 30 3.3 Available Information Channel 32 3.4 Proposed Action Plan 32 4 PROPOSED WORKING PLAN WITH FLOW CHART 4.1 Working Plan With Budget 35 4.2 Flow Chart 37 4.3 Expected Outcome 38 4.4 Implementing Agency 38 4.4 Executive Summary of Diagnostic Study 39 5 PHOTOGRAPHS 40 6 REFERENCES 46 7. SURVEY FORM 47 Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 4 - 1. INTRODUCTION OF CLUSTER 1.1 Cluster at a glance “Clusters” are sectoral and geographical concentrations of enterprises, which produce and sell a range of related or complementary products and are, thus, faced with common challenges and opportunities. These concentrations give rise to external economies (such as the emergence of specialized suppliers of raw materials and components or the growth of a pool of sector-specific skills) and favor the emergence of specialized services in technical, managerial, and financial matters. Aari Tari , Zari, Gota, Kinari & Zardozi Aari-Tari (Zardozi), it is the art of making beautiful embroidery with gold or silver 'taars' or thin wires. Jaipur , wrapped in the mystique, enhanced with the romance of fabled crafts, has one of the finest traditions of embroidery in the world. It has long been known for its embroidery with gold and silver threads called Zari. Zardozi the traditional art of court embroidery is the sheer magic of nimble fingers and imaginative designs, envisaged by the ensemble of lustrous metallic wire which was traditionally the silver wire coated/plated with gold, silk threads, beads and stones. Zari is gold, and zardozi embroidery is the glitteringly ornate, heavily encrusted gold thread work practiced in Jaipur and a few other cities of India. To most foreigners - used to sleek, understated wear - the north Indian bride’s lehanga, choli and dupatta, heavily embroidered with gold and silver threads comes as a visual shock. Either real silver thread, gold-plated thread or an imitation which has a Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 5 - copper base gilded with gold or silver colour, is used for zari. Traditionally made for Mughal and Rajput nobility, it has now been officially adopted as bridal wear by anyone who can afford it. Of course, the days of using real gold and silver thread are now history. What you can get, however, is synthetic or ‘tested’ zari embroidery. Aari Tari is done primarily by the Muslim cobbler community in Jaipur. The designs are of Mughal origin but modernized with the time since the art was at one time patronized by them. By using subtle gradations of color the figures and motifs in the designs can be highly representational. Aari at times is also called zari work. In Jaipur mostly Muslim work women work in this art on job work basis . The show room owners who ultimately sell these exotic products give the work through the agents who then get these various work done by artisans in the areas. Today has approx 25,000 families of artisans working in this work mostly concentrated in Ghat Gate, Ramganj, Chaar Darwaja, Bas Bandanpura, Brahmpuri, Ramgarh Mode, and adjoining areas. The U.P, Bihar, and Bengali families have now adopted this art and mostly work in Jaipur spread in outskirt colonies as well. Of all the crafts of the country, Zardozi seems to have flourished and survived to the present day like few others. The art which earlier only the rich could afford , today has become affordable by a common man who can buy any fashion product made of Aari taari or Zari as low as Rs.100/- Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 6 - 1.2 Aim of Cluster Jaipur is well known for its age-old form of Aari Tari and heavy Zari work (earlier patronized by Rajputs and Mughals for upper class women fashion wear). Today the main market for this art is also higher range sarees, bridal sarees, bridal wear, and any fashion items with lot of glitter and statement. The real profit is pocketed by the show room owners and these artisans are surviving meager income. The diagnostic study conducted by us identified an unexploited capacity for the traditional artisan’s family and more and more new families which are joining this traditional art which is flourishing due to increased business and more and more innovative usages in other products. Presently the work is mostly distributed through agents of the show rooms and exporters who pocket the large profits where as the artisans sometimes don’t get even their hard work day labor due to so called rejections in the name of quality. The vision and action plan to be developed for the cluster envisaged the functionally designed common facilities center having facility of Adda and work tables, raw material procurement services and new designs. Provisions for storage of raw material and finished goods along with sales counters and business transactions will also be made. Such a center will attract business service providers who can transact business more efficiently with units operating from a common functional area. Likewise health and hygiene conditions would improve once the living and working areas are separated in a carefully planned way. Apart from this there will be space to accommodate probable growth of the firms over the next decade. Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 7 - “This Cluster will establish itself in the international and high-end domestic market for its eco-friendliness and ethnicity of the products.” The aim of the cluster is envisaged the revelation of the traditional form of production and the improvement of the living standards of the artisans by: Creating an environment of mutual trust among competing. Reducing the cluster disarticulation (i.e. lack of linkages among the different cluster actors). Enhancing the design, usage of new glittering items in the zari and marketing capacity of the artisans . Designed training course. Improvement in living standard Technology Up gradation for ergonomically designed Addas and work tables and hand sewing fixtures for productivity improvement Vision of the Cluster The long-run vision for the Aari Taari of Jaipur should be as: “ The Aarti Taari industry of Jaipur will establish itself in the international and high-end domestic market for its ethnicity and usages in variety of fashion articles ”. Backward linkages in the form of availability of working capital, infrastructure support, technical development and enterprising organisations will strengthen the process. Diagnostic Report Aari Tari (Zardozi) Cluster Jaipur - 8 - 1.3 Historical Background Zardozi is an ancient Persian embroidery form (Zar in Persian means gold and Dozi is embroidery) that has been passed down for generations. It reached its peak under the patronage of Mughal Emperor Akbar.