195

Chapter index Acknowledgements 4 Chapter 1 The basic principles – sizing – Introduction 5 using the blocks Design and pattern cutting for menswear 6 Metric sizing and size charts 10 Tools and equipment for making patterns 7 Standard body measurements 11 Aliquot parts 8 Size charts 12 Glossary 8 Using block patterns 16 Seam allowances 17 Pattern instructions 18

PART ONE: ‘FLAT’ CUTTING Chapter 2 The ‘fl at’ blocks – woven Jersey casual tops 36 and jersey fabrics 3 Raglan top with hood (track) 36 4 Raglan top with collar (track) 36 The ‘fl at’ trouser blocks The one-piece trouser block (woven or Casual trousers (woven and jersey fabrics) jersey fabrics) 20 1 Weatherwear trousers 38 The two-piece trouser block (woven or 2 Casual jersey trousers (track) 38 jersey fabrics) 20 The basic jeans blocks 40 3 Jeans adaptation 42 The ‘fl at’ shirt and overgarment blocks 4 Combat trousers and shorts 44 The ‘fl at’ shirt block (woven fabrics) 22 5 Boxer shorts 46 The ‘fl at’ overgarment block (woven fabrics) 22 6 Swimming trunks (stretch fabrics) 46 The tee shirt and overgarment jersey blocks The tee shirt and knitwear blocks (jersey fabrics) 24 Chapter 4 Workwear The overgarment blocks (jersey fabrics) 24 1 Indoor work jacket or coat 48 The ‘fl at’ kimono block (woven or 2 Easy fi tting overjacket or coat 48 jersey fabrics) 26 3 Basic work shirt 50 4 Dungarees 52 Chapter 3 Leisurewear, weatherwear and 5 One-piece overalls 54 sportswear Two-piece overalls 56 Leisurewear and weatherwear (woven fabrics) 6 Work jacket 56 1a Casual overgarment 28 7 Work trousers 56 1b Casual jacket 28 2 Jeans jacket 30 Chapter 5 Basic nightwear Weatherwear 32 Pyjama block 58 3 Anorak 32 1 Bathrobe 60 Leisurewear and sportswear (jersey fabrics) Jersey nightwear 62 Tee shirts 34 2a Jersey nightwear – tops 62 1 Sports tee adaptation 34 2b Jersey nightwear – pants 62 2 Polo shirt COPYRIGHTED 34 MATERIAL 196

PART TWO: STANDARD PATTERN CUTTING PROCESSES Chapter 6 Constructing sleeves 6 Standard zip front with extension 82 7 Concealed zip front 82 Sleeves – ‘fl at’ cutting 8 Concealed zip front with extension 82 Using the ‘fl at’ kimono block 64 9 Standard fl y front 84 1 Dolman Sleeve (‘fl at’ kimono block) 64 10 Strap fl y front 84 2 Raglan sleeve (‘fl at’ kimono block) 64 Collars – basic principles Sleeves – ‘fl at’ or ‘form cutting Terms used for collar construction 86 3 Modifi cation to ‘fl at’ blocks Before drafting a collar 86 (menswear shaping) 66 Collar shapes 86 4 Shaped sleeve with back seam 66 Top collars 86 5 Closer fi tting kimono blocks 66 6 Simple gusseting (closer fi tting Standing collars kimono blocks) 68 1a Standard straight collar 86 7 Seam styling with gusset (closer fi tting 1b Standard straight collar with stand 86 kimono blocks) 68 2a Standard convertible collar 88 2b Shaped convertible collar – hidden stand 88 Sleeves – ‘form’ cutting 2c Shaped convertible collar with stand 88 Easy fi tting armhole (scye) shapes 70 3a Shirt collar 88 8 Lowered armhole (scye) 70 3b Shirt collar with stand 88 9 Extended shoulder 70 3c Shaped shirt collar with stand 88 10 Strap shoulder 72 11 Extended yoke sleeve 72 Collars cut in one with the garment 12 Classic raglan sleeve 74 4 Standard roll collar 90 13 Easy fi tting raglan sleeve 74 5 Changing the style line 90 14 Oversleeve – raglan 76 6 Standard roll collar with stand 90 15 Raglan sleeve (two-piece sleeve) 76 7 High shaped collar 90 Collars and revers 16 High padded shoulders 78 Bespoke collars and revers 92 17 Cuffs 78 8 Bespoke gents collar 92 9 Bespoke reefer collar 92 Chapter 7 Constructing openings Engineered collars and revers 94 and collars 10a Basic collar and rever draft 94 Front openings 10b Shaping the collars 94 1 Standard front 80 10c Collar with hidden stand 94 2 Double breasted front 80 11 Collar with visible stand 94 3 Single strap front 80 Flat collars 4 Double strap front 80 12 Standard fl at collar 96 5 Standard zip front 82 13 Half collar 96 197

PART THREE: ‘FORM’ CUTTING – CLASSIC AND CASUAL MENSWEAR Chapter 8 Classic suit jackets The casual shirt block 124 1a Casual shirt 126 The classic suit jacket block 98 1b Easy fi tting casual shirt 126 Closer fi tting alterations 98 High cut revers 98 Chapter 11 Classic and casual The classic easy fi ttng suit jacket block 100 overgarments High cut revers 100 The suit two-piece sleeve block 102 The classic and casual overgarment blocks To complete suit jacket patterns 104 The basic jacket block 130 Lining the suit jackets 105 The easy fi tting casual jacket block 132 1 Suit jacket design 106 The basic overgarment block 134 The classic waistcoat block 108 The easy fi tting overgarment block 136 The one-piece sleeve block 138 Chapter 9 Classic and casual trousers Sleeve modifi cations for the easy fi tting jacket and overgarment blocks 138 The classic trouser block 110 The two-piece sleeve block 140 Altering the leg shape 110 Sleeve modifi cations for the easy fi tting jacket Widened trousers 110 and overgarment blocks 140 1 Basic trousers 112 Shaping the blocks 142 2 Trousers with pleated waistline 114 3 Trousers – slimline 116 Adaptations of the blocks Waistbands 118 1a Jackets – fi tted 144 1a Single cloth waistband 118 1b Jackets – semi-fi tted 144 1b Tailored waistband with slide adjusters 118 2 Easy fi tting jacket 146 1c Double cloth waistband 118 3 Trench coat 148 4 Coats – straight style 150 Chapter 10 Classic and casual shirts 5 Coats – fi tted style 152 6 Formal dressing gown 152 The classic shirt block 120 The tailored shirt block 122

PART FOUR: SIZING AND FIT Chapter 12 Basic grading techniques The ‘fl at’ kimono block 161 The ‘fl at’ trouser blocks 162 Pattern grading Pattern grading 156 Chapter 13 Drafting and adapting the Grading patterns one size up 156 blocks for individual fi gures Grading examples 156 Drafting and adapting the blocks Grading the ‘form’ blocks for individual fi gures 164 The classic suit jacket block 157 Taking body measurements 164 The casual shirt block; the classic and casual Fitting problems – trousers 166 overgarment blocks 158 Fitting problems – coats, jackets and shirts 168 The classic trouser block 159 Grading the ‘fl at’ blocks The ‘fl at shirt’ and overgarment blocks 160 198

PART FIVE: COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN (CAD) Chapter 14 Computer generated design Pattern design and modifi cation 181 and pattern making Garment sampling – 3D software programs 183 Pattern grading 184 Connectivity and marketing 174 Made-to-measure 188 Design creation and illustration 176 Production lay planning and marker-making 189 Product Data Management (PDM) 178 Planning and cutting 190 3D Body scanning and sizing 180 Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) 192