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Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria's Tiara

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Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria's Tiara ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA Meet Maria Anna, the Austrian archduchess who got to wear Marie Antoinette’s jewels...and had one hell of a collection of her own. FILE UNDER: TIARAS WANT ME TO READ THIS POST TO YOU? CONTENTS: Meet the Parents | Growing Up Royal | Put a Ring On It | Married Life | The War to End all Wars | Post-War Drift | Who Inherited This Tiara? N NOVEMBER 13, 2018, SOTHEBY’S O auctioned off over 100 jewels from the Bourbon- Parma family. One diamond tiara had been a wedding present from Emperor Franz Josef of Austria to his great- niece, Archduchess Maria Anna. It sold for 250,000 CHF to a buyer who was not me. The star of the show that night was Marie Antoinette’s pearl and diamond pendant, which sold for a mind- boggling 36,427,000 CHF. But I found myself wondering more about Maria Anna. Who was she? Why hadn’t I seen any pictures of her if she had such a fantastic jewel collection at her disposal? So I did what any self-respecting royal researcher would do. I told everyone else to get lost until I had an answer. THE TIARA MARIA ANNA’S TIARA WAS CREATED by Köchert, the Austrian court jeweler, around 1900. Emperor Franz Josef gave it to her when she married Prince Elias of Bourbon-Parma. It’s kind of a weird looking tiara, to be honest: GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA IMAGE: SOTHEBY’S. COLORED BACKGROUND: YOURS TRULY. According to the auction catalog, these are circular-cut diamonds pave- and collet-set into a foliate scroll setting. The central cluster and side motifs are detachable, in case you’re too busy to do your hair but still want to rock an assload of diamonds. Snap those puppies off, pin ‘em to a lapel, and you’re good to go. In her jewel ledger, Maria Anna called it “a small diamond tiara or bandeau” (Sothebys.com). Even she didn’t know what to make of it, apparently. This tiara appears in an extremely rare book of Köchert jewelry designs. This design is dated 1901, with a note that it was made for Franz Josef. But Maria Anna and GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA Elias didn’t get engaged until 1902, so we know this tiara definitely wasn’t designed for Maria Anna. We don’t know if it was made as soon as it was designed, or if the drawing sat around until Franz Josef (or, let’s be real, someone on his staff) picked it out for Maria Anna. If you want a copy of that Köchert book, be prepared to cash in some stock options. They only printed 150 copies, and the one on eBay will set you back $4,800 plus $20 for shipping. (Side note: You can’t get free shipping on a book that costs almost five grand? Seriously?) Before you sell a vital organ, there are copies in the Getty Research Institute, the Library of Congress…and, of all places, the Cleveland public library. You’re welcome. MEET MARIA ANNA NOW THAT YOU’VE SEEN THE tiara, let’s see what we can dig up about its owner. GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA Maria Anna was born on January 6, 1882 in Linz, a city in northern Austria. The astronomer Johannes Kepler had once been a teacher there, and a few hundred years later, Adolph Hitler would spend his childhood here. He liked the place so much he later decided to build his Führermuseum there. Eww. Mom and Dad had been crossing their fingers for a boy, but Maria Anna joined her older sister Maria Christina in the nursery while her parents went back to the baby- GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA making drawing board…er, bed. Let’s meet them, shall we? MEET THE PARENTS MARIA ANNA’S DAD, ARCHDUKE Friedrich, was the heir to the duchy of Teschen and a crap-ton of property in Hungary. Never heard of the duchy of Teschen? That’s okay; I hadn’t either. It was a Habsburg possession in Eastern Europe. Today, the city of Cieszyn (Teschen) straddles the borders of modern-day Poland and the Czech Republic. MAP GENERATED VIA MAPS.WIKIMEDIA.ORG. LABELS & COOL SHADING BY YOURS TRULY. Friedrich’s Uncle Albrecht, the duke of Teschen, had no sons to inherit his lands and properties. Friedrich knew GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA an opportunity when he saw one. His own father had died relatively young at the age of 56 in 1874, so he dropped a massive hint that Albrecht should adopt him and make him his heir. Albrecht agreed. In an instant, Friedrich stood poised to inherit a fortune that would make him richer than the emperor. Nice work if you can get it, right? But this dude wasn’t all work and no play. It goes without saying that every Austrian archduke joined the GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA army. But his parents had also insisted he take up a trade, so he learned carpentry. In his spare time, he played five instruments and wrote love songs. With those mutton chops, it’s like he’s a ready-made hipster, if hipsters owned, like, half of Hungary. CROŸ ME A RIVER In 1878, Friedrich went to Belgium to visit his cousin, the queen. There, he met Princess Isabella of Croÿ- Dulmen. According to the Marquise de Fontenoy, he fell in love so fast he proposed just a few days after meeting her. Most accounts describe theirs as a true love match. Later, however, in a New York Times article, Frederick Cunliffe-Owen (the Marquise de Fontenoy’s husband) would call Isabella “the most designing young woman at King Leopold’s Court” (3 January 1926). GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA IMAGE BY FRITZ LUCKHARDT, PUBLIC DOMAIN VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS. Whether Isabella set out to seduce Friedrich or not, the point is that it happened. And once it did, she knew she was Samantha Baker getting noticed by Jake Ryan. There was just one problem. The Croÿs were noble but not royal. Oh, they’d tell you they were descended from a handful of medieval kings and saints, but as Janet Jackson said, “What have you GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA done for me lately?” Oh, they’d tell you they were descended from a handful of medieval kings and saints, but as Janet Jackson said, “What have you done for me lately? ” This was a HUGE DEALBREAKER for the Habsburgs, who routinely married cousins because no one with a different last name could measure up. Brides had to be royal, period, no exceptions, final sale, no refund. But Friedrich had an ace up his sleeve. He called his fairy godfather, Uncle Albrecht, who convinced Emperor Franz Josef to unclench for, like, five seconds. Long story short, Friedrich got his way. In 1878, he married Isabella in the Croÿ family’s Chateau de l’Hermitage, shown below. GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA IMAGE BY JÉRÉMY JÄNNICK, PUBLIC DOMAIN VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS. This marriage did not go over well with the rest of the Austrian royal family. They hated the fact that Isabella— a freaking nobody—was now one of the highest-ranking women in the empire. So they talked smack and dissed her in public every chance they got. It was a humiliation Isabella absorbed to the very marrow of her bones. Before long, she channeled Dee Snider and decided she wasn’t gonna take it anymore. When Friedrich’s military command took him to Pressburg (now Bratislava), Isabella flipped Vienna the bird. The couple rented Grassalkovich Palace and never looked back. Pressburg would remain their primary GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA residence until 1905. Today, that palace is where the president of Slovakia throws all his shindigs. IMAGE BY F ORTEPAN / BUDAPEST FOVÁROS LEVÉLTÁRA, PUBLIC DOMAIN VIA WIKIMEDIA COMMONS. GROWING UP ROYAL WHILE IN PRESSBURG, FRIEDRICH ROSE through the military ranks and Isabella rose through society’s ranks. She hosted visiting dignitaries, local nobility, and royals, including Friedrich’s sister Maria Christina, the queen of Spain. She also started popping out babies. The first, Maria Christina, arrived a year after the wedding in1879. When Maria Anna arrived in 1882, Friedrich and Isabella were probably a little disappointed, but a second GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA daughter wasn’t the end of the world. What probably did feel like the end of the world was the third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth daughters that arrived next. What probably did feel like the end of the world was the third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth daughters that arrived next. Isabella must have been losing her ever-loving mind. But she and Friedrich kept calm and got their groove on…and at age 41, she finally produced their longed-for son, Albrecht, long after everyone else had given up. He joined Maria Christina, Maria Anna, Maria Henrietta, Natalie, Gabriella, Isabella, and Maria Alice. Another sister, Stephanie, had died at age four in 1890. One year later, Natalie would die at age 14, leaving Albrecht with six living sisters. Here they are in 1898: GIRLINTHETIARA.COM | ARCHDUCHESS MARIA ANNA OF AUSTRIA’S TIARA UNRELATED NOTE: Look at Maria Anna’s hair (second from left)…this girl has a head of hair like no one’s business, perhaps rivaled only by Crown Princess Cecilie of Prussia.
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