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Dive Magazine Timor Leste.Pdf TIMOR-LESTE THE FINAL FRONTIER While making a television series, Aaron ‘Bertie’ Gekoski explored probably the final great diving frontier – blue whales, sperms whales, dugongs, superpods of dolphin, giant crocodiles, some of world’s best reefs and much more. Welcome to East Timor One of the sperm whales resident in East Timor’s waters . Photo Aaron Gekoski/Scubazoo 99 www.divemagazine.co.uk 99 TIMOR-LESTE Anemone City - a EAST TIMOR dive site near the capital Dili. Aaron Gekoski/Scubazoo BANDA SEA INDONESIA Wetar Strait Atuaru Manatuto Tutuala DILI Ossu Ombai Strait Maliana Pante Makasar Suai SAVU Oecussi SEA ASIA INDONESIA TIMOR SEA Weedy scorpionfish. OCEANIA Jason Isley/Scubazoo Mature pygmy blue whales (Balaenoptera musculus brevicauda) reach 25m in length. Aaron Gekoski/Scubazoo hanging around: they are on their mammoth 10,000km reef systems as Indonesia, Timor-Leste remains relatively yearly round-trip migration, from the feeding grounds untouched by dive tourism. Why, despite possibilities of sub-Antarctic waters, to mate and birth around of getting in the water with resident sperm whales, blue Indonesia’s Banda Sea. whales in season (plus a whole lot more, as you’re about to Skippered Australian, Kevin Austin, the MV Atauro learn), does it remain off our radar? manoeuvres into position, one which we hope is on a Well, first of all, there is Timor-Leste’s recent bloody collision path with the whales. There are no margins Exploring the coast of Oecussi in the history. The former Portuguese colony forms the eastern for error here – the blues only come up for air every ten MV Aturo. Aaron Gekoski/Scubazoo part of the large island of Timor (the western part is o we opt for the half a dozen sperm minutes or so before descending again. the Indonesian province of Nusa Tenggara.) and gained whales next to our boat, or the blue whales on the The whales are about 50m behind us on our port side. its independence in 1975. Nine days later, Indonesia horizon? This isn’t a question you are likely to ask ‘Go, go, go!’ comes the shout from Kevin, as we clutch our underwater footage of pygmy blue whales on their great invaded and a bloody war ensued. More than 200,000 Dyourself many times in your diving life, however it is cameras and slip into the water. Keeping fin strokes beneath migration. Very few people have seen these animals East Timorese were killed. Indonesia relinquished our current dilemma. We are in the Wetar Strait - a the surface to a minimum, we make our way towards them. beneath the waves. And we’re starting to understand why. control in 1999 and the first new sovereign nation of the 3,000m-deep cetacean superhighway which runs along With the most imperceptible of movements, the whales While it was one of the most thrilling encounters of our 21st century was formed in 2002. A period of healing the north coast of the island of Timor. Despite being a manoeuvre beneath us, the shadows of three aquatic jumbo lives, it could have been better. We needed to get closer. ensued, and Timor-Leste began finding its feet. stone’s throw from Dili, East Timor’s capital, we are the jets. And then it dawns on us: we have just laid eyes on the So we had to keep on trying, for weeks, until we got that Life here – as one often encounters in countries only boat out on an ocean that is flat, clear, and most largest animal ever to have inhabited our Earth. magic moment: a 25m blue whale that nearly filled the recovering from war – moves at a snail’s pace. The importantly, stuffed chock-a-block with marine life. frames of our cameras. fighting is over, what’s there to be stressed about? Taxis, However, there are decisions to be made. We opt for the UNCHARTERED TERRITORY covered in graffiti, chunter along dusty streets, seldom blues (after all, the sperm whales are resident of these The crew and I are in the middle of filming a new dive A DIVE DESTINATION LIKE NO OTHER clocking more than 20mph. One of the problems for waters so we will have more opportunities). show for online wildlife TV channel, SZtv. Our mission Timor-Leste is no ordinary dive destination. Despite tourists is the cost of living. Having adopted the US We grab cameras, masks and fins. The blues aren’t for this episode of Timor-Leste from Below is to obtain being located in the Coral Triangle, and sharing the same dollar, Timor-Leste is now one of the most expensive 16 www.divemagazine.co.uk 17 TIMOR-LESTE countries in Asia for travellers. Another peculiar fact of (thermoregulating, perhaps?), melon-headed and life in East Timor is that seemingly innocuous activities even the rare Cuvier’s beaked whales appeared briefly, such as changing money, or buying plasters for a cut hundreds of spinner dolphins surfed on the bow of our toe can consume baffling amounts of time. All of these boat and more. We even did an aerial study with a drone factors contribute to the country’s higgledy-piggledy for Professor Edyvane to get a bird’s eye view of the charm, while reducing its visitor numbers to only the action, counting thousands of individuals in the process. most curious and adventurous. Last year, Timor-Leste welcomed fewer than 100,000 tourists, compared to DILI ROCKS Indonesia’s 14 million. Following our successes on the high seas, it was time Us divers are a thrill-seeking bunch that will do to explore the coastline around Dili with Aquatica whatever it takes, wherever it takes us, to get our diving Dive Resort. Australian owners Desmond and Jennifer fix. So when we heard about the marine riches on offer have turned Aquatica into one of the best-known dive in Timor-Leste, we formed a partnership with a local centres in Timor-Leste. Dili’s star diving attraction organisation set up to promote tourism, Noble Timor, to is Tasitolu – a stretch of coastline eight kilometres make an online TV show about the country’s best dive outside the city that is packed with miniature life. locations. Over the course of our trips to Timor-Leste, However, we were more interested in a pair of local we would see not only the largest animal ever to have celebrities that hung out here: dugongs named Dougie lived (blue whale), but also the largest ever carnivore and Debbie. Every morning we sat on the beach, (sperm whale), in addition to resident dugongs, the waiting for Debbie to arrive. And at 9am, regular as world’s most biodiverse reef systems, free-diving clockwork, she’d show up, sometimes grazing less ‘mermaids’, superpods of dolphins, and ancient rituals than 20m away from the shore. Locating Debbie was involving giant crocodiles and bloody sacrifices. easy, however getting a decent shot of her – head-on as she chomped seagrass – was not. She would catch a A HIGH SPERM COUNT glimpse of us, rise up on her flippers, and head off to Once we were satisfied with our blue-whale footage, another patch of seagrass where she could eat in peace. we turned our attention to the sperm whales. We were joined on the MV Atauro by cetacean experts Dr Benjamin Kahn from Holland and Professor Karen Edyvane from Australia. Dr Kahn brought along his hydrophone. Looking like a small satellite dish attached to a piece of bamboo, this seemingly innocuous piece of equipment offers an intimate insight into the lives of these highly intelligent, social animals. ‘Those clicks you can hear are the whales hunting, using echolocation,’ Dr Kahn explained, as we listened Lizardfish, Synodus variegatus, with to the unmistakable sounds of a pod of sperm whales. captured damselfish. Jason Isley/Scubazoo ‘The clicks speed up when they approach their prey, which is primarily squid. And then, when the clicks stop – BANG – you know they have caught them. It’s pretty cool that we’re able to be part of their hunt, simply by Debbie, the shy dugong of Tasitolu. listening with this equipment.’ Jason Isley/Scubazoo These insights made us long for an in-water encounter. And oh, how we got one. One afternoon, with the water at its most pristine, director Will Foster- Grundy, photographer Gil Woolley and I, dropped into the water as a lone female approached. We waited at the surface, hoping for a fleeting glance. As she arrived a curious thing happened. She rolled her body and leaned on her side, sussing us out with one beady eye. Then, with a deft waft of her fluke, she cruised straight past our cameras, before descending into the deep, showering us in a cloud of her poo. We raised our heads out of the water and whooped. For the following week, we were treated to more encounters with Timor-Leste’s other 24 whale The healthy reefs of Timore-Leste covered in and dolphin species. Risso’s dolphins sat vertically soft corals. Aaron Gekoski/Scubazoo in the water column, waving tails up in the air 99 99 TIMOR-LESTE With Debbie elsewhere, we were left to wallow in the whittled away hours seated on beanbags, sipping from muck. On a single dive we saw two species of seahorse, coconuts and eating slices of fresh mango. Life as an mimic octopus, algae octopus, two leaf fish, tonnes of explorer had its perks. different species of shrimp, and a frogfish. Not a bad We arrived into Oecussi unsure of what to expect way to spend a morning. from the next ten days.
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