Cereals of Antiquity and Early Byzantine Times. Wheat and Barley…
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http://dx.doi.org/10.18778/7969-475-4 Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak, Zofia Rzeźnicka Cereals of antiquity and early Byzantine times Wheat and barley in medical sources (second to seventh centuries AD) BYZANTINA LODZIENSIA Series of the Department of Byzantine History of the University of Łódź Founded by Professor Waldemar Ceran in 1997 № XX BYZANTINA LODZIENSIA XX Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak Zofia Rzeźnicka Cereals of antiquity and early Byzantine times Wheat and barley in medical sources (second to seventh centuries AD) Translated by Karolina Wodarczyk Maciej Zakrzewski Michał Zytka Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak, Zofia Rzeźnicka – University of Łódź, Faculty of Philosophy and History, Institute of History, Department of Byzantine History, 90-219 Łódź, 27a Kamińskiego St. [email protected] © Copyright by University of Łódź, Łódź 2014 © Copyright for this edition by Jagiellonian University Press All rights reserved No part of this book may be reprinted or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers Published by Łódź University Press & Jagiellonian University Press First edition, Łódź–Kraków 2014 W.06718.14.0.K ISBN 978-83-7969-475-4 paperback Łódź University Press ISBN 978-83-233-3901-4 paperback Jagiellonian University Press ISBN 978-83-7969-476-1 electronic version Łódź University Press ISBN 978-83-233-9181-4 electronic version Jagiellonian University Press Łódź University Press 8 Lindleya St., 90-131 Łódź www.wydawnictwo.uni.lodz.pl e-mail: [email protected] phone: +48 (42) 665 58 63, fax +48 (42) 665 58 62 Distribution outside Poland Jagiellonian University Press 9/2 Michałowskiego St., 31-126 Kraków phone: +48 (12) 631 01 97, +48 (12) 663 23 81, fax +48 (12) 663 23 83 cell phone: +48 506 006 674, e-mail: [email protected] Bank: PEKAO SA, IBAN PL 80 1240 4722 1111 0000 4856 3325 www.wuj.pl Contents Research objective of the study Maciej Kokoszko 3 Introduction Knowledge of foods in medical sources Dietetics, pharmacology and culinary art Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak, Zofia Rzeźnicka 7 CHAPTER I Wheats of antiquity and Byzantium Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak 29 1. Wheats: a brief history Krzysztof Jagusiak . 29 2. Common wheat and hard (durum) wheat (pyrós) Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak . 47 The pyrós wheat as food and medication in the period between the second and seventh centuries Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak . 47 Wheat: dietary assessment Krzysztof Jagusiak . 58 Wheats: culinary data Maciej Kokoszko . 120 The role of common and durum wheat in medical procedures Krzysztof Jagusiak . 191 vi Contents 3. Einkorn wheat (típhe) Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak . 246 Einkorn: role in the diet of the second-seventh centuries Maciej Kokoszko . 246 Einkorn: dietary assessment Maciej Kokoszko . 249 Einkorn: culinary data Krzysztof Jagusiak . 261 The role of einkorn wheat in medical procedures Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak . 266 4. Emmer wheat (zeiá) Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak . 268 Emmer: role in the diet of the second-seventh centuries Maciej Kokoszko . 268 Emmer: dietary assessment Krzysztof Jagusiak . 276 Emmer: culinary data Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak . 281 The role of emmer wheat in medical procedures Maciej Kokoszko . 287 5. Spelt (ólyra) Krzysztof Jagusiak, Maciej Kokoszko . 293 The role of spelt in the diet of the second-seventh centuries Krzysztof Jagusiak . 293 Spelt: dietary assessment Maciej Kokoszko . 299 Spelt: culinary data Krzysztof Jagusiak . 305 The role of spelt in medical procedures Krzysztof Jagusiak . 309 CHAPTER II Barley Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak, Zofia Rzeźnicka 311 Barley: a brief history Krzysztof Jagusiak . 311 The role of barley in diet between the second and the seventh centuries Maciej Kokoszko, Zofia Rzeźnicka . 327 Barley: dietary assessment Krzysztof Jagusiak . 337 Barley: culinary data Maciej Kokoszko, Zofia Rzeźnicka . 363 The role of barley in medical procedures Krzysztof Jagusiak, Zofia Rzeźnicka . 399 Contents vii Final conclusions Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak, Zofia Rzeźnicka 433 Wheat . 437 Einkorn wheat . 438 Emmer wheat . 439 Spelt . 440 Barley . 440 Prosopographical glossary Krzysztof Jagusiak 443 Glossary of basic Greek terms Zofia Rzeźnicka, Maciej Kokoszko 463 Abbreviations 477 Bibliography 481 Sources . 481 Modern scholarship . 488 Indices 505 Index of people . 505 Index of ethnic and geographic names . 510 Maciej Kokoszko, Krzysztof Jagusiak Zofia Rzeźnicka Cereals of antiquity and early Byzantine times Wheat and barley in medical sources (second to seventh centuries AD) Maciej Kokoszko Research objective of the study The objective of the present book is an analysis of the evolution of dietetic doctrines and an assessment of the value of medical sources for historians of food; the ultimate result is going to be an examination of the most significant cereals – one of the food groups that were of crucial importance for the nutrition of societies in antiquity and early Byzan- tine times – namely, four species of wheat and barley. When commenc- ing this work we already had some experience of the issue, since we have been actively exploring various aspects of the history of ancient and early 4 Cereals of antiquity and early Byzantine times. Wheat and barley… Byzantine culinary art for a number of years – acting both jointly1 and individually2. 1 K. J a g u s i a k, M. K o k o s z k o, Z. R z e ź n i c k a, Delicacies from the sea. A selection of data on the genus Thunnus from medical and other sources, FAH 24, 2011, p. 33–38; M. K o k o s z k o, K. J a g u s i a k, Zboża Bizancjum, Kilka uwag na temat roli produktów zbożowych na podstawie źródeł greckich (Cereal crops of Byzantium. Some observations on the role of cereals on the basis of Greek sources), ZW 17, 2012, p. 19–38; M. K o k o s z k o, Z. R z e ź n i c k a, K. J a g u s i a k, Health and culinary art in Antiq- uity and early Byzantium in the light of De re coquinaria, SCer 2, 2012, p. 145–164; M. K o k o s z k o, K, J a g u s i a k, Z. R z e ź n i c k a, Ryż jako pokarm i medykament w antycznej i bizantyńskiej literaturze medycznej (Rice as a foodstuff and medication in ancient and Byzantine medical literature), PNH 12.1, 2013, p. 5–38; M. K o k o s z - k o, K. J a g u s i a k, Z. R z e ź n i c k a, Kilka słów o zupie zwanej ptisáne (πτισάνη) (A few words about a soup known called ptisáne (πτισάνη)), ZW 18, 2013, p. 282–292; M. Kokoszko, K. Jagusiak, Z. Rzeźnicka, Rice as a foodstuff in ancient and Byzantine materia medica, SCer 3, 2013, p. 47–68; M. K o k o s z k o, K. J a g u s i a k, Z. Rzeźnicka, Oats in ancient and Byzantine ‘Materia Medica’ (5th century BC – 11th century AD (A commentary on the popularity of oats as a foodstuff), Pbg 37.4, 2013, p. 21–42 ff. 2 A few examples should suffice – M. K o k o s z kRyby o, i ich znaczenie w życiu co- dziennym ludzi późnego antyku i wczesnego Bizancjum (III–VII w.) (Fish and their signi- ficance in the daily life of people in late Antiquity and early Byzantine times (IIIrd–VIIth century)), Łódź 2005, passim; M. K o k o s z k o, Medycyna bizantyńska na temat aiora (αἰώρα), czyli kilka słów o jednej z procedur terapeutycznych zastosowanych w kuracji cesa- rza Aleksego I Komnena (na podstawie pism medycznych Galena, Orybazjusza, Aecjusza z Amidy i Pawła z Eginy) (Byzantine medicine on the topic of aiora (αἰώρα), or a few words on one of the therapeutic procedures used to treat the Emperor Alexios I Komnenos (on the basis of the medical writings of Galen, Oribasius, Aetius of Amida and Paul of Aegina)), [in:] Cesarstwo bizantyńskie. Dzieje, religia, kultura. Studia ofiarowane Pro- fesorowi Waldemarowi Ceranowi przez uczniów na 70-lecie Jego urodzin (The Byzantine Empire. History, religions, culture. Studies offered to Professor Waldemar Ceran by stu- dents on his 70th birthday), eds. P. K r u p c z y ń s k i, M.J. L e s z k a, Łask–Łódź 2006, p. 87–111; M. K o k o s z k o, Sosy w kuchni greckiej. Garum (γάρος) i pochodne (Sauces in Greek cuisine. Garum (γάρος) and derivatives), VP 26, 2006, p. 289–298; M. K o - k o s z k o, Some technical terms from Greek cuisine in classical and Byzantine literature, E 95, 2008, p. 269–283; M. K o k o s z k o, Fish as a food source in Greek dietetics. An overview of late antique and early Byzantine doctrines, [in:] Fishes – culture – environ- ment through archeoichthyology, ethnography and history. The 15th meeting of the ICAZ fish remains working group (FRWG). September 3–9, 2009 in Poznań and Toruń, Po- land, eds. D. M a k o w i e c k i, S. H a m i l t o n - D y e r, I. Riddler, N. Trzaska- Research objective of the study 5 In order to achieve the set objective, we researched selected Greek sources from the second to the seventh century, or to put it more pre- cisely – from the moment of elaboration of the canons of dietetic knowledge by Galen until the time of composition of a medical ency- clopaedia by Paul of Aegina and the creation of the anonymous treatise entitled De cibis.