JOEL SUGANTH/FLICKRJOEL 58 – TIME OUT EXPLORER – JULY-AUGUST 2014 CHETTINAD Culture Keeping it reel A peek into one of Chettinad’s opulent mansions shows Charukesi Ramadurai why the region continues to be a popular draw for Indian filmmakers he caretaker at Periya Veedu (Big House) at the Chettinad town of Athangudi, rubbed his fingers together as soon as he spotted me exiting the car. It took me a moment to realise that he was making the time-honoured Tgesture for money, the way he did with all visitors. The magnificent – a word that I would use repeatedly during my time in the region – house remained locked for most of the year, under his watchful beady eyes, to be opened only for curious visitors, such as myself, who found their way there. In contrast to the dry and dusty landscape of the region, the cool, spacious interiors of Periya Veedu came as a pleasant surprise. As I stepped into the foyer, known as the mugappu, I could see down the long, narrow corridor all the way to the back door. “That opens out onto the parallel street; that is how large houses in Chettinad are,” said my guide Venkatesan, with a proud smile. The mugappu itself was stunning with ornate teak pillars and enamel panelling. A low, wide seat or thinnai 59 – TIME OUT EXPLORER – JULY-AUGUST 2014 ran along the wall on both sides of the mansions – the larger the abode, the of a ground mixture of egg white, main door. This served as one of the higher its owner’s status. The best was lime, powdered shells and a local fruit. FYI social hubs of the house and was often brought in from across the globe – When to go used to welcome guests, catch quick glass from Murano, teak from Burma, Director’s cut afternoon naps and hold intensive chandeliers from Belgium and tiles Like most big Chettinad mansions, The region can get gossip sessions. from closer home, namely the town Periya Veedu was built in the early unbearably hot in of Athangudi. Throw some Victorian 20th century. Over the years, several summer. Plan a visit House proud furniture and Art Deco influences into of these houses across the region fell between November Chettiars belong to a trading the mix and you have an arresting into disrepair owing to the migration and February when it’s community, with ties once extending architectural masterpiece. of their owners to larger towns like as far as Singapore and Malaysia. Other highlights usually include Chennai and Coimbatore. While some comparatively cooler. Known to the British Raj as bankers intricate woodwork on doors, depicting have recently received a fresh lease on and moneylenders, they flourished Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth life having been converted into luxury Getting there under their rule. Investing their wealth who presides over these homes. The heritage hotels, others, like Periya Take a train or fly to in their hometowns, they built large smooth walls gleam with plaster made Veedu, have been rented out for film Madurai, the nearest airport and railway station. From here, it’s about a two-hour cab ride to your destination. Getting around It’s easy to travel between the smaller towns and villages via cycle-rickshaw or on foot. Autorickshaws are available for longer ERIC LAFFORGUE/DINODIAERIC distances, but be prepared to haggle. Bus connectivity is sketchy, so it is best to hire a taxi to explore the region. Cab drivers often double as guides and can help with access into some of the local homes. Tourist information www.tamilnadutourism.org (Opening page) The Chettinad Palace is a popular setting for film shoots (Clockwise from right) One of the many Chettiar mansions in Kanadukathan Though the mansions are usually closed, caretakers sometimes allow curious visitors a glimpse inside Most roofs in Chettiar mansions are supported by carved teak pillars In sari weaving units, the threads are untangled by hand Lunch is served on banana leaves with a plethora of choices LAFFORGUE/DINODIAERIC 60 – TIME OUT EXPLORER – JULY-AUGUST 2014 CHETTINAD shootings. stunning exterior – just as grand as its Among the filmmakers of Indeed, Chettinad is a popular interior – with brightly painted walls Bollywood, Priyadarshan has shown location among filmmakers from glittering in the sunlight, and it is easy his fondness for Kanadukathan, using the Tamil and Telugu industries, to see why. Raja’s Palace – as Chettinad Palace Indeed, Chettinad and increasingly, Bollywood. The The most memorable film set, is known locally – and Chettinad local red soil and lavish mansions however, is cinematographer and Mansion (now a heritage hotel) as is a popular lend themselves to stories ostensibly director Rajiv Menon’s Kandukondain locations for Virasat (1997) and location among set in Rajasthan or wealthy homes Kandukondain (2000) with a stellar cast Malamaal Weekly (2006). He later filmmakers from the anywhere in the hinterlands (cue the that included Tabu, Aishwarya Rai, went on to recreate a slice of Bihar in rich Thakurs of Bollywood filmmaker Mammootty and Ajith. Then there’s the Karaikudi for Aakrosh (2010), a thriller Tamil and Telugu Priyadarshan’s movies). The lively climax (an exciting chase sequence) to based on honour killings. film industries, streets and colourful markets too the sequel of director Hari’s blockbuster play a part. The star attraction here Singam (2010), that was filmed on the Rising to the occasion and increasingly, is the opulent Chettinad Palace streets of the nearby town of Karaikudi Filmmakers have sometimes chosen Bollywood in Kanadukathan. One look at its near Pandian Cinema. Chettinad over conventionally favoured ERIC LAFFORGUE/DINODIAERIC ONS/FLICKR SHOP mm ADURAI AROUND M You’ll find plenty of kottan baskets woven from palm leaves at KOSHYKOSHY/CREATIVE CO CHARUKESIRA the local market, or sandhai, on Mondays and Thursdays ONS/FLICKR mm ER/CREATIVECO P IE P SONJA KHYATIDODHIA/FLICKR 61 – TIME OUT EXPLORER – JULY-AUGUST 2014 ICTURE P INDIA Murals at the Iranikovil temple, one of the nine clan temples of the Nattukottai Chettiar community 62 – TIME OUT EXPLORER – JULY-AUGUST 2014 CHETTINAD ARVINDSRIDHAR/FLICKR locations like the snowy Alps or the typical feature of these mansions), streets of Paris for song sequences. A that are open to the skies and used couple of Tamil hits come to mind – to dry appalam (a kind of papad) ‘Iruvizhiyo siragadikkum’ from and pickles, and occasionally, for Pirivom Santhipom (2008), a story cooking. Branching off to a side are about a joint Chettiar family and ‘Idu vast halls where guests are fed, some daana’ from Saamy (2003), a tale of of which can hold up to 500 people a Deputy Commissioner’s attempt to at a time. fight corrupt politicians in Tirunelveli. As I stepped out of Periya Veedu, Interestingly, both feature scenes from I craned my neck for a final look a traditional Tamil engagement and at the statues atop the main gate. wedding. Which seems quite fitting, Stuccowork of vibrantly painted gods in a way, since many of these homes and goddesses, animals and birds, remain uninhabited for the most part, and British soldiers with horses and HE BOISVIEUX/DINODIAHE with families spread far and wide, guns peered back at me and over P returning only for special occasions the passers-by on the street. Silent HRISTO C and major festivals. witnesses for over a century now, I A local woman chalks out a rangoli (kolam in Tamil) meant to attract good fortune These wedding scenes are set in couldn’t help but wonder about the The Pillayarpatti temple, part of the nine clan temples, is worth a visit for its carvings the large courtyard, or valavu (a stories they’d have to tell. Fact File AT A GLANCE EXPLORE Pillayarpatti temple (part Street, Kanadukathan Koil Street, Karaikudi architecture, Visalam About 80km from Hop across towns and of the nine clan temples 630103. +91-45652- 630001. +91-45652- (7/1, 143 Local Fund Rd, the temple city of take in the splendour of of the community) is 73286. `-``). Employing 39679. `-```). Kanadukathan 630103. Madurai, Chettinad the architecture of the located 12km from local tie-and-dye +91-45652-73111. www. is the collective old Chettiar mansions. Karaikudi. Believed to be techniques, they are EaT & STAY cghearth.com/visalam. name for the 75-odd Although locked, some from the 4th century AD, available in traditional The Bangala (Devakottai ``-```) allows visitors to villages and towns have caretakers willing this is one of the most vibrant patterns. Go Rd, Senjai, Karaikudi experience local culture. once inhabited by the to give you a guided tour significant of the nine antique shopping at 630001. +91-45652- Classic Chettinad snacks Chettiar community. The for a nominal fee of `50 temples dedicated to the main market on 20221/250221. www. such as kuzhi paniyaram biggest of these towns or so. There are several the Hindu god in this Muneeswaran Koil thebangala.com. ``), a (a rice and pulse batter today is Karaikudi, the factories in Athangudi area, with a six-foot tall Street. Shopkeepers are former gentleman’s club, shallow-fried and served commercial hub where one can watch statue of the main deity always willing to chat offers 25 luxury rooms, a with chutney), idiyappam of the region. The tiles being handmade in its sanctum. about the rich history pool and spa. Watch the (string hoppers served towns of Kanadukathan, from local sand. Brightly of their wares, most of chef whip up a traditional with coconut milk) and Devakottai, Athangudi painted with typical floral SHOP them from local Chettiar Chettinad meal complete adhirasam (a deep-fried Kothamangalam and and geometric motifs, Buy cotton Sungudi saris homes.