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Jammu & Kashmir ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Jammu & Kashmir (including Ladakh) Why Go? Jammu & the Welcome to three incredibly diff erent worlds in one state. Kashmir Valley . .226 For most foreigners, J&K’s greatest attractions are the Hima- Jammu . .227 layan lands of Ladakh and Zanskar, with their disarmingly friendly Tibetan Buddhist people, timeless monasteries, arid Srinagar . .231 canyons and soaring snow-topped mountains. But neither Gulmarg. 238 area is easily accessible, especially outside midsummer. Sonamarg . 239 Hordes of domestic visitors make pilgrimages to temples Kargil & Zanskar . .240 around Hindu Jammu and love Muslim Kashmir for its Kargil . 240 cool summer air and alpine scenery. Srinagar’s romantic houseboat accommodation is another drawcard. However, Around Kargil . 240 political volatility remains a concern. Disputes over Kash- Suru Valley . .241 mir caused three 20th-century wars and intercommunal Zanskar . .241 strife still breaks out sporadically. Always check the security Ladakh . .243 situation before travelling to Jammu or Srinagar but, even if things look dodgy there, you can expect Ladakh to be as Leh . 244 meditatively calm as ever. Nubra Valley . 269 Best Buddhist When to Go Monasteries Leh °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm » Lamayuru (p 268 ) 40/104 32/800 » Diskit (p 269 ) 24/600 » Chemrey (p 273 ) 20/68 » Thiksey (p 272 ) 16/400 0/32 » Karsha (p 242 ) 8/200 -20/-4 0 Best Mountain J FDNOSAJJMAM Scenery Jun & Sep Jul–Aug Winter » Pangong Tso (p 276 ) Ideal for Srinagar Perfect for Skiing at Gul- » Dal Lake, Srinagar (p 235) and Sonamarg; Ladakh; Pahal- marg. Ladakh, » Shyok Valley (p 270 ) roads to Ladakh gam overflows only accessible by can be blocked. with pilgrims; rain air, has festivals » Manali–Leh road (p 274 ) drenches Jammu. but no tourists. Food MAIN POINTS OF A full traditional Kashmiri wazawan (feast) can have doz- ENTRY ens of courses, notably mutton-based dishes like goshtaba Srinagar, Jammu and (pale mutton balls in saff ron-yoghurt curry), tabak maaz Leh have commercial (fried lamb’s ribs) and mildly spicy rogan josh (rich, vividly airports. Jammu has red-coloured mutton curry). Kashmiri chefs also serve deli- the only major railhead. ciously aromatic cheese-based curries and seasonal nadir By road, Ladakh is only (lotus stems) typically served in yakhni (a curd-based sauce accessible in summer made mildly minty with fennel). over tortuous moun- Ladakh’s Tibetan favourites include salt-tea, momos tain roads from Srina- (dumplings) and thukpa (noodle soup) though a more gar and Manali. genuinely Ladakhi dish is skiu, a stew incorporating fl akes of homemade barley ‘pasta’. Ladakh’s barley-beer, chhang, is available at rural homestays but not for general sale. Fast Facts » Population: 12.5 million DON’T MISS » Area: 222,236 sq km Buddhist Ladakh is India at its most beguilingly human » Capitals: Srinagar (sum- and scenically stunning, a rugged high-altitude desert mer), Jammu (winter), Leh softened with Tibetan temples, irrigated paddies and (Ladakh) mesmerising mountain lakes. Come in summer when » Main languages: Kash- the rest of sweltering India is drenched in monsoons. But miri, Urdu, Ladakhi, Balti allow ample contingency time for acclimatisation, can- celled planes and roads that can suff er lengthy closures » Sleeping prices: $ below caused by landslides. ₹1000, $$ ₹1000 to ₹5000, $$$ above ₹5000 Top State Festivals Top Tip Check the security situa- Hindu festivals are celebrated in Jammu, Muslim ones in tion before heading to the the Kashmir Valley and Buddhist temple festivals abound in Kashmir Valley but don’t let Ladakh and Zanskar. The latter, held around local monaster- troubles in Srinagar deter ies, typically feature masked dances and village fairs that you from visiting ever-calm are colourful but lengthy, slow-moving aff airs. Those held Ladakh. in winter, eg at Spituk (January), Stok (March) and Thiksey (November), see few foreigners but summer ones, like those at Lamayuru (June), Hemis (July) and Takthog (July), can feel Resources overloaded with camera-toting tourists. Exact dates vary with » News www.greaterkash the lunar calendar. mir.com, www.daily » Losar (Dec) Ladakhi New Year, celebrated in Buddhist excelsior.com, www.kash homes and gompas with feasts, rituals and dances. mirtimes.com, www.kash » Dosmoche (Feb-early Mar, widespread) Buddhist New mirherald.com Year. Masked dances; effigies representing the evil spirits of » Traveller Forum www the old year are burnt or cast into the desert. .indiamike.com/india/ » Matho Nagrang (Feb-Mar, Matho, p 262 ) Monastery ora- jammu-and-kashmir-f30 cles perform blindfolded acrobatics and ritual mutilations. » Tourism www.jktourism » Ladakh Festival (1-15 Sep, Leh, p 244 ) Unrepentantly .org, www.ladakhtourism.in touristy but entertaining cycle of events including a carni- » Rare maps http:// valesque opening parade, Buddhist dances, polo, music and blankonthemap.free.fr archery. » Ladakh Homestays www.himalayan-homestays .com.
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