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Home , Batalik, Garkon, Hardas, Hunderman, Kargil, Kargil district

- The Unique Land An Overview

Ali Mohamad Rather***

Introduction Pansila in the South3. Present delimitation of Purig (Kargil) is Bodh comprises to Shamsha Kharbu (In many sub-divisions Drass) and , Sanjak and Dargo which are in many (Indus valley) to Ringdom ways different from (zanaskar). This may be also called each other. These are specially administrative limits. recognized due to their differentiation in anthropological and religious Kargil etymologically means aspects. Administratively Ladakh is center. There are various divided into Kargil and districts. explanations associated to it. Kargil Kargil is the capital town of Kargil town is centrally located from district. It is traditionally called important places surrounding it like Purig1. Purig is the land from the , , Leh and Zanakar stream at Lamayur to wanlaand Indus and is more or less equidistant from river (at Khaltse) up to Zojila from one these places. Hence being direction and from Ringdom and equidistant has been given the name to river Suru near Indus of Centre or karogil. It is also valley from another direction.2 It is narrated in a local folk lore of Kargil also referred to as, the region which that in ancient times a warrior shot is drained by the Suru and Drass an arrow in one direction. He rivers down to a little below the inquired about the arrow’s place of configuration of river Suru with river fall, saying “Garo Khyl,” i.e. where Indus. From west to east it is from did the arrow fell? The arrow had Drass to pass near Mulbekhchamba fallen in the vicinity of the present and from Kharman, town Kargil. So it got the name Occupied (POK) in North to karogyland and with usage it

*Dr. Ali Mohamad Rather is a freelance Researcher based in Srinagar, and Kashmir State.

Journal of Peace Studies 6 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1, & 2 January- June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW became Kargil. It is also mentioned means off-springs of warriors and it that Kargil word comes from Khr and is claimed that the Kargil was the land Skil meaning the kingdom in of warriors6. The inhabitants of this between Kashmir and Tibet. Other land are called purig pas i.e. residents opinion is that it is from gar and khil of purig land. However, only purig meaning stopping place. The Kargil pas do not inhabit there. town has been a resting place for people coming from different Geography directions4. Kargil is a component of Ladakh In Tibetan language Kargil is called region of Jammu and Kashmir state. Purig. The word purig has many It lies in the North East of Kashmir versions of etymological meaning. valley, in the South west of Leh Some say that purig is from tube like district, in the south direction of structure of different valleys in (POK) and in the Northern Kargil. So it has been named as purig. direction of Himachel Pradesh . However, it is not only Kargil where According to Alexander such tube shaped valleys exist. There Cunningham the Western , are many other regions in Himalayas in the mid-way separates the Ladakh and other mountains, where such district (of Rukechmzanaskar Purig valleys do exist. and Drass) from the region of Kashmir etc7. The Tibetan scholars opine that Purig is from Pot rigs, which means offshoot comprises Purig, Suru, of Tibet. The others observe that the Drass and Zanaskar regions. piece of wood on which the wool is spun According to Alexander Cunningham has sphinx (tube like) shape. This Kargil (Purig) is the region comprising sphinx is called purig in Kargil. The the villages of Wakha and Phugal practice of spinning around that wood rivers from their sources in the is common traditional practice in Kargil, transverse range of singay La to so it is called Purig. Kargil below their junction. The principal places of Kargil (Purig) are There is a historic link of the purig Mulbekh, Pashkum and Sot. Drass is name as well. The people from the most westerly of these small Purang came with Nyathistan the districts8. The land of Kargil (purig) prince of Purang in 155BC. So their extends to 135.18 kms. from descendants have been named as and Zanaskar and from Purigs5. It is also said that Purig to Fatola at a distance of 80 kms. It is Journal of Peace Studies 7 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1 & 2 January - June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW also said that the region starts from 4. Harpa-la 12100 ft. The highest the confluence of Nallah Lama Yuru peak of Kargil as per Cunningham () to up to Zoojila is17000 ft. called .9 and from Ringdom and Lingshet to the confluence of river Suru and The only route which traditionally Indus. The Ringdom is in connected Kargil to the outside world part of Kargil. Zanaskar is an area of is Zoojila pass, which was made 14,036 Sq. Kms. and mean height of motor-able in 1960s. However, there the inhabited part is 11196 ft. The was another link through Panikhar region lies between the 33-35 degree in Suru valley which joined it to latitude N and 75.5 to 77 degrees Pahalgam side of Kashmir valley. longitude, E. The mountain ranges This path was rarely used except by enclosing the region are Naktul in the the dwellers of that valley. As per south atop the Pashkum (east of locals of Panikhar they used to fetch Kargil town) Kyontee in south. Near edible commodities from Kashmir Batalik in the north of Kargil on their backs from Kashmir via that bordering POK is Hambuting lar. route. Kargil since ancient times was Gyunkar is the highest peak of Kargil a passage to silk route which in its north east. is in the continued up to 1947. It was an Suru valley. important trade and cultural center. It is connected to vast Gilgit and Trans Himalayan range passes Baltistan on one side and on other through purig region. The range side to Kashmir and the Doda. extends through Zanaskar to the Presently, private trade between junction of Drass river with Indus, Kargil and Doda continues. The where it is again cut through by the present road via Zoojila is motor-able Drass river at a narrow gorge called but it is the most unpredictable route. the wolfs’leap .Beyond this point it Many accidents occur there during stretches in one unbroken chain to bad season. Now a by-pass has also the great southward sweep of the been constructed on Zoojila and it has Indus at the junction of . eased the travel to a great extent. Due In the South of Purig and Drass, it to heavy snow fall it remains blocked forms the natural boundary. The during winter, generally from peaks which fall in the western side November to ending May. of Zanaskar are: 1.Namyik 13000 ft. Kargil town has an average 2... Burgi pass on Deosai 15600 ft. elevation of 2,676 metres (8,780 feet), 3. Alampi la 15500 ft. Sir-i- kotul and is situated along the banks of the Journal of Peace Studies 8 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1, & 2 January- June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW

Suru River (tributary of Indus).The The villages close to LOC are: River Suru is having source beyond 1. is situated on the bank of Rangdom in the north of the river Suru 7 kms. from Kargil town. Himalayas range in latitude 34.8 N A village of POK named Brolmo is and 76 E longitude. Its length is 160 about 10 kms. from this village. kms. (100 miles) and general direction is north-north west10. It 2. Village Hunderman13, the border passes through Kargil town via village which was taken over by Panikhar, Sanku, (Suru from Pakistan Occupied Valley). Rivers Wakha Chu near Kashmir. Vinnge- la joins Suru in Kargil. Drass area of Kargil district is situated along 3. Village Karkit Burgamis is 20 kms river Drass. The Drass river and from Kargil town and is close to LOC, Shingu river, coming from POK, join which has the village Bresal (POK) the river Drass at Kaskasar. Then the on the other side at 10 kms. Gutari river Drass joins river Suru and the Babachan Fultuks village of POK is two waters leading to formation of 12 kms from this village. Harel is a greater Suru at Kharu flowing village-let of Burgam, which was towards POK and finally joining the completely vacated after 1971. river Indus in Skardu (POK) at 4. Latoo village which is 20 kms from Morul11. Kargil town, is 5 kms. from village Gultari – Babachen Fultuks in The town of Kargil is located 205 km POK. from Srinagar, facing the Northern Areas, across the LOC. Like other areas 5. Kaksar is 21 kms. from Kargil town in the Himalayas, Kargil has a and the nearest border of this village temperate climate. Summers are hot is Gultari – Babachen Fultuks which with cool nights, while winters are long is 8 Kms. from this place. and chilly with temperatures often 6... Village Kharbu which is 25 kms from 12 dropping to “48 °C (“54 °F). Kargil town and a border village near it is Kunar Buniyal at a distance of Kargil and 20kms. Kargil is situated close to the Jammu 7. Drass is 30 Kms from Kargil town and Kashmir Line of control bordering and Bhimbat is more or less at the Pakistan Occupied Kashmir (POK). same distance from Kargil and The position is clear from the following Mushkoo in Drass is about 15 kms data. from the LOC.

Journal of Peace Studies 9 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1 & 2 January - June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW

Nearest villages of POK to these 1660 C.E. Later, due to division villages are: Minimarg Astor, Kune among the descendants, the Suru- Buniyal. The Tololin peak is 3 kms Kartsay empire got divided into away from National Highway14. several small kingdoms of Phoker, Mulbekh, Wakha and SuruKartsy. Thus the above data reveals that Thee Namgail of SuruKartsay 1660- Kargil district starting from Drass is 1700 C.E. and after him his son Thee strategically very sensitive. Mohammad Sultan (son from It is also be seen that the pickets of Muslim princess of Skardu).Then Pakistan are at greater altitude than Tashi Namgial, son of Gylpo king the posts. This can be from Muslim Queen of purig. seen, when one passes along Thereafter the reign passed into the National highway to Kargil, one can dynasty of Lehkings. The Ladakhi clearly see the Pakistani forces kings ruled the region through their pickets at the top of mountains above representatives, Kharpoons or the Drass and Suru rivers. Governors, onwards. Sout, Chigtan and History Pashkum Regions The Kargil was divided into different small kingdoms, namely Thartha Khan in about 799-825 C.E Sout, Chigtan and Pashkum, and set up his government with Kukshu Suru, Kartsay. The two sets of states as capital. He covered the region were ruled by two different dynasties between river Suru and Indus i.e. in different periods of history. Suru Pashkum16 to Chigthan and later and Kartsay came under the rule of Trespone via Kargil, Baru and Minjee. Niathichan(An invader from Tibet in He also brought Suru up to Zanaskar 155 BC).15 The dynasty of Niathichan touching Kishtewar within his reign ruled for several generations and sent his son Nawalday to rule reaching 14th century C.E. It later there. After him Chorazispan continued through GyalBomday became independent ruler there but (1345-1400), ChozBomday (1400- his son Aldhay Cho’s reign marked 1420C.E.),Youngulday (1420-70), the end of this dynasty.17 Sout was Thongal Dhay (1470- 1520), ruled one after the other by TonoboGylpo (1520- 30 C.E), descendants of Hasho Thrahthra LobzangGyalpo (1530-60), Konchuk khan. 825-850 C.E. Bootee Khan 850- Shrubstan (1560-1600) and finally 875 C.E, Zane Khan 875-900 C.E, KongaNamgial of Kartsay 1600 – Horn Khan 900- 925 C.E, ZagriMaad

Journal of Peace Studies 10 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1, & 2 January- June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW

925-950 C.E, Zaim Khan 950-975 C.E, Doru Cho, but could not dare to do it Mazil Beg 975- 1000 C.E, Jadeem Beg alone. Due to Islamisation of Khaplu, 1000- 1025 C.E, Abdal Khan 1025- Shager and Skardu cooperation 1060 C.E,Nasir Beg 1060-1090 C.E. developed between him and these The rule continued through states. Thus they jointly attacked the Chumbrages Cho, Chubstan Than Gyalpo of Ladakh and besieged the Mughal Beg, his son Gylpoldhaycho, Gyal of Ladakh20. his son Bagdad Cho and then Deng Malik from 1090-1420 C.E. son of After the death of Habib Cho, his Deng Malik Stragpa Cho Raja also son Ahmad Malik became his nick named as Chakor raja. successor. During his reign Sultan Syeed Khan of Yarkand (Xinxiang) It is reported by Hashmatullah invaded Ladakh and Kashmir. His Khan that came there in his era general Mirza Haider Gorgan Douglat and the son of Stagpacho Armuncho came to Ladakh via Zanaskar and Suru. renamed himself as Murid Khan Ahmad Malik, due to his own (1450 A.D to 1475 C.E) after weaknesses and because of religious converting to Islam. After him, his son influence, accepted his authority. Sultan Doru Chow (1475-1490 C.E) took the himself stayed there and sent Mirza to reign in his hand. He was an Kashmir. extravagant and careless person and hence proved a failure. The people Then government of Sout got approached Gyalpo (King) of Ladakh, separated from Chjigtan. The Purig the Lotus Chokdan, who was enemy dynasty which had confined to Sout of King Doru chow. So he invaded and Chjigthan came under Ahamd the country and conquered all areas Malik son of Habib Chou. Then his including Tagmachek and Kanji up son Khokher Bazgam (1535 – 1555) to Fatula and annexed it to Ladakh18. became the king. The kingdom of Sout and Chjigtan got divided GyalBomday (1345-1400)19 with the between two brothers Surang Malik help of Raja of Kashmir conquered and Gyal Malik. Surnag Malik Suru, Kartsay and Foker. Thus the conspired against his brother with the Purig dynasty got confined to Sout King of Ladakh Jamyang Namgial and Chikthan only. Habib Cho, the and as a result dispute arose between brother of Youru made Baltak instead the two brothers21. However, due to of FokarKhar as his capital. He the intervention of Sher Khan in the wanted to take revenge from Gyalpo politics of Purig and Ladakh, the of Ladakh for the defeat of his brother Jamyang Namgial did not succeed in Journal of Peace Studies 11 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1 & 2 January - June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW his adventure against the Purigs. The After him his one son Habib Khan position continued to be same as became the Raja of Pashkum and before22. another son Gyal Malik became Raja of Chikthan (1665- 1685C.E). Adam Later Pashkum, Skambu, Lochum, Khan 1685-1745 C.E became Raja of Kostay, Techa Kart, Baru, Minjee, Pashkum. He also got the Drass Kinour and adjacent villages which region in dowry from his father in law were ruled by Pashkum dynasty all (Ladakhi king).Thus Drass became went out of the jurisdiction of the ruler part of Pashkum and the of Pashkum and unified with management continued upto Dogra Chigthan23. rule24. Later Then Haniifa Khan, the son of Adam Khan with the help of After the demise of Gyal Malik his king of Ladakh. Unified Pashkum son Sultan Malik (1600-1610 C.E) and Chigthan.25 Thus, Pashkum, became the Raja of Sout, and captured Chigthan and Drass came under one Chigthan and Pashkum. Sultan rule. Malik (1600-1610 C.E) fought with Surang Malik and killed him in the Ali Khan became the raja of battle field and later his son Sankhan Pashkum, Drass and Chigthan in Malik and grandsons Adam Malik and 1800- 1834 C.E.and his younger Chehzag Malik were imprisoned. Rhus brother Rahi Khan became his Sultan Malik captured Chigthan as minister. The dynasty continued till well. However Sultan Malik could not the invasion of Wazir Zorawer Singh. continue to hold Chigthan for more time as he was persuaded by Raja of In Sout Mirza Sultan 1650 –1660 Askardu to release the sons of Sankhan C.E was the ruler. After him, the chain Malik from the imprisonment. Later of rulers were from 1660-1810 C.E as Adam Malik became ruler of Chigthan follows: Mirza Sultan Khan, Mirza (1610-1640 C.E). Beg, Aziz Beg, Bagrum Beg, Jangeer Beg, and Yehya beg. They lived Adam Malik ruled for some years peacefully within their areas keeping and then passed away issue less. His themselves aloof from the disputes younger brother Choszang Namgial in Chigthanand Pashkum. Salam (1640- 1645 C.E) became his Khan the son of Yehya Khan from successor. He was aged and passed 1810 – 1834 C.E. fought and away soon after it. And then his son defended his reign from Zorawar Hor Cho Khan became the Raja. Singh’s attack on Sout26.

Journal of Peace Studies 12 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1, & 2 January- June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW

Zorawer Singh (1786-1841)along He quelled the rebellion, deposed the with noted officers of the Dogra army old king and appointed his prime which included warriors from minister and brother-in-law28. different parts of Jammu and Kashmir and a garrison of 5000 Thus Zorawer Singh got complete soldiers invaded Suru via hold of the Purig region29. BhuttoKul27.The Dogras entered the Sum valley. After fighting pitched People battles at places such as Sanku, Langkartse, Kartse, Sot and As per the 2011 census, the Pashkam, the invaders pushed on to population in Kargil had grown by Leh, the capital of Ladakh. The 20.18% to 140,802 people (equal to Ladakhi king, Tsepal Namgyal, was 1.14% of the total population of made to pay war indemnity. He also Jammu and Kashmir), with children undertook to pay an annual tribute under 6 years constituting 10% of the of Rs. 20,000 and acknowledged the population. The male-to-female sex suzerainty of Maharaja . ratio was 1,000:883; population The Ladakhis, however, soon rose in density 10 persons/km. Kargil had revolt against their new masters and an average literacy rate of 74.49% Zorawar Singh appointed Nagorub (slightly more than the national Stanzin, as the new ruler of Ladakh. average of 74.04%) – male literacy at But Zorawar Singh had to make two 86.73% and female literacy at more incursions before Ladakh was 58.05%30. annexed to the Sikh kingdom in 1840. The same year, Zorawar Singh People in Kargil are of mixed Dard attacked Baltistan, a Muslim and Tibetan descent and most of principality in the Indus valley, to the them are . The Purigs are northwest of Kargil. hybrids of Dards and Tibetans31 and are having tenants of other groups He defeated the Baltis and deposed such as Kashmiri, Mons etc. It may Ahmad Shah, whose eldest son, be noted that whoever came and Shah, was installed as settled in Kargil came to be known the new king of Baltistan. The as Purig, in spite of their different Ladakhis, however, soon rose in origin. However, a small percentage revolt against their new masters and of people there claim to be Baltis. Zorawar Singh launched a second They proudly claim themselves to be attack. This time he followed the short superior to the Purigs, as observed but difficult -Zanskar route. after interacting with the groups of Journal of Peace Studies 13 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1 & 2 January - June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW people, in the Kargil town. The other Kashmiris, they are the descendants ethnic group inhabiting the region of Kashmiri migrants to the region, are: Dards (, and Drokpas) who came from Kashmir and settled Botas, Kashmiris and Punjabis. Many there since centuries because of trade writers and researchers have or employment. There are many high misquoted all the people(Balti as well status families of Kashmir origin as Purig) there as Baltis32 inhabiting Kargil. They are Munshi, Baagh, Taak etc. Baltis are the inhabitants of Baltistan- Skardu. Baltis in Kargil are Kashmiris are also inhabiting in found in Hardas, and Matayan village, the first village of Latoo villages, situated at about 10 Ladakh from Kashmir side, as well as Kms from Kargil town on the eastern in PaniKhar. However, they have mixed bank of river Suru, just near the up with the local Purigs and have border of POK. Also some families registered themselves as Purigpas of Balti origin are residing in Balti unlike the Kashmiri descendants in Bazaar (Kargil town), and a few Leh, who are referred to as Argun. But localities near it. they have retained the Kashmiri caste names. There are some Punjabi The Brokpas or Dards inhabit families as well, who have settled in Drass belt up to village Kharbu Chani Kargil in the last century. Gund and Kaksar. The Brokpas (Drokpa) inhabit in the Indus valley In Zanaskar we find Botas, as in villages of Batalik, Silmon, well as Mons. Many Kashmiri etc. Muslims families are also inhabiting the Padam the capital In addition to these, as mentioned town of Zanaskar. above, there are people of other ethnic groups as well in Kargil. These Population in Kargil are Mons, Garbas and Kashmiri. Mons are the musicians of Ladakh The population in Kargil varied and Garas (garbas) - the Iron particularly in the pre-independence smiths33. They are the sub-cultural era. It is due to the fact that the groups of Ladakh, who are believed method of recording was not to be of Aryan origin like Dards. scientific, during that time. There Mons and Garbas (Garas) are was less manpower for the purpose. considered the lowest in the social The travelling form one place to hierarchy of Ladakhi society. another was difficult due to non- Journal of Peace Studies 14 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1, & 2 January- June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW availability of means of Ladakhi languages34. However, in communication. That is why we find a census record it is grouped with Balti lot of variation in the recorded data. language.

The growth rate has steadily The Purig is a dialect of Tibetan increased after 1951 but sudden fall has language group and belongs to taken place in the decade of 1981. Then Tibeto Himalayan branch of the it again increased in 1991 and 2001 with Tibeto Burman Languages35. certain decrease in 2011.

Language: As per local speakers of the Purig language, it is closer to Tibetan than Purig is the language of the people Ladakhi and Balti. of Kargil(Purig land). The purig is the main language of Dards language is blend of Balti and residing in Kargil and Leh districts

raeY snosrePhtworG % raeY nosreP htworG

1981 29452 1691 46054 11.7

1091 60813 7.42 1791 00436 31

1191 07662 12.61- 1891 29956 9.3

1291 97474 87 1991 100018 81

1391 83205 18.5 1002 703911 92

1491 01444 8.11- 1102 208041 4.42

1591 65814 67.4 ------

Census of India and Hashmatullah Khan Lucknowee.

Tareekh Jammu wu Kashmir aurMaftuhati Maharaja .1939 Journal of Peace Studies 15 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1 & 2 January - June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW

.oN.S kcolBehtfoemaN 1002suneC 1102susneC

ligraK 1 81704 21514 +nabrU( )laruR

2 ssarD 26611 88912

3 natkihC-rekahS 6069 33211

4 elograhS 39801 82711

5 ooknaS 89161 53771

6 eroP.M.G 6179 45721

7 uruS-iaT 5438 95001

8 raksnaZ 09001 35611

9 kangnuL 9702 0412

01 latoT 703911 208041

of Ladakh. However, the Dokpas Education (Dards) of Indus valley (Da Hanu, Ladakh being a far flung are has Garkon etc.) speak other language – been facing many challenges in a dialect of Dard language. different fields of life. Kargil has

Journal of Peace Studies 16 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1, & 2 January- June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW

POPULATION OF 1980.When it was carved out as a PURIG SPEAKING new district, it to got more attention PEOPLE in its developmental process to some extent.

Historically speaking there was no formal school in Kargil till 1940.In sunseC noitalupoP 1940, when compulsory education raeY programme was started by the govt. of Maharaja of Kashmir, a school was established in Kargil. The school was upgraded to lower High school level 1791 33093 in 1942.In period immediately before independence, i.e. in 1947, there were reportedly 8-10 primary schools at Pashkum, Saliskot, Drass, Chigthan, 88444 and Panikhar with 4 schools 1891 sitlaBlcnI in Zanaskar. There was one Girls Primary School at Kargil. In 1951 Kargil Lower High school was upgraded to High school level. There were mostly non- local (Kashmiri) 7891 18735 teachers in these schools. In 1954 some more primary schools were opened. The Girls primary school at Kargil 1991 00045 in 1942 enrolled 40 students and a local lady Jameela Khanum was a teacher there. This school was upgraded to Middle school level in Registrar censuses of India New 1956 and made High school in 1967- as Furnished by Superintendent. Archives 68.36 Leh. Change in Literacy Rate been much backward as compared to its counterpart district Leh, though Literacy rate was very low in it was a component of district Leh till Kargil up to 1980’ but after that

Journal of Peace Studies 17 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1 & 2 January - June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW changes began to set in. The literacy Buddha- the coming Buddha’s statue rate of the district became more than is located on roadside in Drass and the literacy rate of the state as a in Sankoo at KartseKhar about 42 whole. kms from Kargil town. At village Apati 25 kms from Kargil town is The change of the literacy rate in another Maitrya. There is one more 2011 of the district Kargil as a whole maitrya in Mulbekh which has is, more than three times the literacy sizeable population of Buddhists, rate in 1980.The male literacy rate has presently. The was increased by 10% as compared to dominant religion there and later 1980 while as the literacy rate of Islam emerged in Ladakh. Islam had females increased more than 20 its advent in the Kargil region times (57%) within a period of 20 through many preachers from years. Also when compared to state Kashmir and Skardu.37 as a whole the overall change was 40% and male literacy was 7 % and Many Syeds, Ulemas and females literacy increased to about preachers who came along with Mir 40%. Thus the district Kargil is much Shams ud Din Iraqi to Kashmir and advanced in the educational later following him and his son Mir advancement than the state overall. Syed Danial went for the dissemination of the faith and settled There were 358 schools in the in Skardu and Kargil38. Syed Mir district in 1998 and these increased Hashim came during the reign of to 466 in 2004-05 and to 556 in 2010- Thee Namgial. Mir Hashem settled 11 and most of the schools are at Karpo Khar in Sankoo. His tomb accommodated in government is there and people from far off buildings. This shows the places come and pay homage to him. remarkable progress made in the It is a big center of spiritual healing educational infrastructure. in Kargil. Also one Akhoon Subhan Mir Munshi and Akhun Fazil came Religion: Traditionally from Kashmir. Akhoon Fazil later speaking, Buddhism was the shifted to Wakha village. His religion of Ladakh staring from descendants continued to live Drass upto Tibet. This is attested to there39. by several writings and archeological findings as well. There Thus, as a result of propagation of are still the remnants of Buddhism Islam majority of people in Kargil in Drass and Sanko the Maitrya region accepted Islam. It is pertinent Journal of Peace Studies 18 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1, & 2 January- June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW to mention that the sect of Islam which The Sunni Muslims mostly inhabit was introduced in the region, Drass region and the most of them particularly in Chigthan, Pashkum, are of Dard origin, however a few are Sout and Drass, was Nurbakhshia Balti/Purigpas, as well. A few order. (Nurbakhshia are Shia Athna families in Kargil, who are of Ashria but they claim to be a sufi Kashmiri origin are Sunni Muslims. order which has been carved out of Also about 60 families of Sunni Kubravi order of Sufism of Mir Syd Muslims faith are inhabiting in Ali Hamdani). It is a Sufi sect, which Panikhar region. It is pertinent to originated from Khatlan in Central mention that they too are of Kashmiri Asia. Its initiator was Syed origin. Also the Muslims who are Mohammad Nurbaksh, who was a inhabiting Padam Zanaskar also disciple of Syed Ishaq Khatlani, who have migrated from Kashmir to that himself was the disciple of Mir. Syed place an sunnis. Ali Hamdani40. A few Sikh families are also settled The table below gives brief in Kargil town, as mentioned they are account of the inhabitants of different the descendants of a Sikh religious groups of Kargil. The Businessman who had settled in majority of the Muslims in Kargil Kargil a century or less ago. They belong to Shia Athna Ashria school have also a Gurdewara, there of Islam. As mentioned above it was the preachings of Mir Shams ud Din Conclusion Iraqi that Nurbkhshia order was introduced in the region. Later this Kargil is a component of Greater order became weak and due to Ladakh and it has been Jugular vein influence of religious preachers from of Indian Kashmir. The strategic and , the pure Shia Athana position of Kargil keeps it vulnerable Ashira (Non-sufist) gained the hold in to many a mis-adventure from the the region and the followers of side of the area occupied by Pakistan. NurBakshia became less and less. As reported by many elderly people in Kargil has a complex socio-ethnic Chigthan, they were previously in pre graph. Diverse ethnic groups of Aryan 1947 era) Nurbkshia. The Nurbkshia and Mongloid stock inhabiting there order has now been confined to Drass are: Dards (Brokpas- Highland region -villages. ChaniGund, Kharbu, dwellers), Baltis, Purigpas, Botas and Shamsha, Thronges, etc. Kashmiris are dwelling there.

Journal of Peace Studies 19 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1 & 2 January - June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW

Comparison of Educational Level

1002 1102

etatS heL ligraK etatS heL ligraK

latoT 719,96,00,1 736,71,1 722,51,1 629,84,52,1 401,74,14,1 883,3 noitalupoP

egatnecreP 7.64 4.85 13.85 47.86 02.77 94.47 detacudE

elaM 475,00,35 611,56 926,06 165,56,66 709,29 197,08 noitaulop

detacudE 353,99,2 302,44 909,73 864,61,25 881,08 070,07

tnecreP 74.65 9.76 5.26 62.87 13.68 37.68

elameF 343,96,74 174,25 895,45 563,38,85 791,45 795,26 noitalupoP

detacudE 998,40,71 505,42 708,81 049,21,43 024,43 733,63

tnecreP 7.53 7.64 4.43 10.85 15.36 50.85

Historically speaking the land has India. The land later came under the always been ruled by local direct rule of Ladakhi King. The independent rulers occupying small whole region: Ladakh, Purig, territories. Those rulers were always Zanaskar Baltistan and Gilgit, was fighting for dominating each other. finally annexed to state of Jammu Thus political situation was similar and Kashmir by Dogra ruler of the to that among Rajputs in Northern state.

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Linguistic structure of the region is government’s efforts for its also diverse in nature. The various development by introducing the languages are Dardic and provision of reservation by declaration Mongoloid. The of ST status to the people there, are Shina and Dokskat (Dards of allotment of Regional Hill counsel etc. Garkoon and Darcheks). Shina is drastically changed the literacy spoken by Brokpas living in Drass situation of the people. region. Purig is the language of majority of the Kargilites. Balti is The religion of Islam dominates spoken by Balti people. However, the the Kargil district and at second level Baltis and Purigpas are easily able to is the Buddhism, which was the understand each others’ language, as original religion of Tibetan belt and the two languages belong to same is still dominating the . family of language of Tibetan origin. Zanskar tehsil of Kargil district is having majority population of The region had very low literacy rate Buddhists. The Kargil district has the up to 1980s. However, after the unique position due to presence of

Present religious structure of Kargil is a s follows:

tceS/noigileR noigeR .oN.S

uruS,kcolBligraK ,yellaV dnatuoS,nahtgihC,mukhsaP .1 :smilsuM aerakilataB aihS airhsAanhtA .1 madaP,ssarD,rahkinaP,ligraK innuS.2 )raksanaZ( aihshkaBruN.3 otdnuGignahC-ssarD ssarD

logrehS,ahkaW,hkebluM.lliV .2 stsihdduB dna dnanokraG,raksanaZ skihcraD

.3 shkiS niseilimafemoS nwotligraK

Journal of Peace Studies 21 Vol. 25, Iÿÿssue 1 & 2 January - June, 2018 KARGIL - THE UNIQUE LAND AN OVERVIEW an old sufi order i.e. Nurbakshi order. Baltistan and Ladakh. This was the The Nurbakshi faith is at the verge of dominating order even in Kashmir extinction now but is still prevailing in during medieval era.

RRReferences

1. Purig is the traditional name of Kargil region. 2. Hahmatul Khan Tareekhi Ladakh wumaftoohatimaharajGulab Singh. , 1939 p 677 3. Ibid 4. District profile Kargil Information Dept. P 6. 5 . Hashmat- ullah Khan Op.Cit. p6 6. Naqdu Baqir. Kargil Maazi Aur Haal in Kargil today Vol.I No II July-Sep 2000 P 42. 7. Cunningham,A Ladakh- Historical. Statistical and Historical. Srinagar, Gulshan Pub. 1997. p 58). 8. Ibid. p 23 9. Ragyul (Kargil Number) 1st Nov to 15th Nov 2004. 10. Alexander C Op.Cit. 11. NaqduBaqir. Kargil Maazi Aur Haal in Kargil today Vol. I No II July- September 2000 p 41P 42. 12. Rather A.M Mons of Ladakh An Ethnographic study, Srinagar SNA publishers. 2002. 13. In the past 70 years, Hunderman has witnessed four wars, innumerable skirmishes and incredible moments of military history. According to oral narratives, Hunderman has been part of two nations. From 1949-71, villagers

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say, it was part of Pakistan. During the 1965 war, for a period of four months, it was virtually cut off, owing to a standoff between the Indian and Pakistani armies.A portrait of a village on the border.-Shubhangiswarup A portrait of a village on the boarder. (Many of the residents of this village fled to Pakistan during the 1971 Indo-Pak war. Shiny Varghese Trade Secrets: Stories of a forgotten village near Kargil Indian Express April 26, 2016) is 12 Kms. from the town of Kargil about 3 Kms from the village Brolmo . 14. The information has been collected from locals of the area particularly Mr. Zahid Burgami a local Researcher 15. Rangyul (Kargil Number) 5th March 2005 to 31st March 2005. 16. Hashmat UllahKhanOp.Cit. p 714. 17. Ibid p 716. 18. Hashmat Ullah Khan OpCit.p 714. 19. He was descendent of Nyatheestan dynasty. He along with his ChozBomday had been in Kashmir, as their guardian planned to kill them to seize their ancestral kingdom. They fled to Kashmir to save their lives and there came under the influence of Islam. Later GyalBomday conqured Suru, Kartsay, Foker and Mulbekh and made Mulbekh his capital. Heconstructed a mosque at Mulbekh, which was remembered as Kashmiri mosque.(Hashmatullah khan “Tareekhi Jammu p 677

20. Friese, Kai 1998. “Myth of origin of a myth. The inscrutable Aryans of Ladakh”. The Indian magazine of her people and culture (Feb 1908) Bombay.) 21. Hashmat ullahOp.Cit. Ibid P720. 22. Ibid. 23. Ibid 723. 24. Hashmat Ullah Khan Op.cit p 714. 25. Ibid 724. 26. Ibid p 3444 27. Ibid.

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28. The Sikh Conquest of Ladakh and Tibet: 1834-40 A.D.SHER SINGH, I.A.S. (Retd.) Bains-Kutiya, H. No. 1897, Urban Estate, Phase II, Patiala. 147002.) 29. Hashmat Ullah Khan p24. 30. Census of India 2011 31. Grierson, G.A Linguistic survey of India Vol III part I Delhi, Moti Lal BanarsiDass 1967 p 42. 32. K. Warikoo.” Language and Politics in Jammu and Kashmir: Issues perspectives “Delhi, Himalyan Reseach Centre) 33. Rather A.M Mons of Ladakh An Ethnographic study p6. 34. Grierson, G.A Linguistic survey of India Vol III part I Delhi, Moti Lal BanarsiDass 1967 p 42. 35 Grierson, G.A Linguistic survey of India Vol III part I Delhi, Moti Lal BanarsiDass 1967 p 42. 36. Rather,Ali M. Ladakhi society. Srinagar, Kasur book house,2015.

37. Ibid P682 38. Tahfatul Ahbab. 39. Hashmat ullahKhan.Op.cit. 40. Kashmiri, Mohamamd Ali (Jan G.R Trans)TuhftulAhbab. Srinagar, Jan Pub.(2016)p 57.

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