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Images, Uncertainties, and Success Stories: the Politics of Conservation in Laikipia North, Kenya. Graham Robert Lewis Fox Depa

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Images, Uncertainties, and Success Stories: the Politics of Conservation in Laikipia North, Kenya. Graham Robert Lewis Fox Depa Images, uncertainties, and success stories: the politics of conservation in Laikipia North, Kenya. Graham Robert Lewis Fox Department of Anthropology McGill University, Montreal, Canada. December 2018 A thesis submitted to McGill University in partial fulfillment of the requirements of the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Anthropology. © Graham R. L. Fox, 2018 Abstract Laikipia County, Kenya, one of East Africa’s most exclusive safari tourism destinations, exemplifies both the benefits and challenges that come with pursuing conservation outside government-administered protected areas. In Laikipia, where more than forty percent of land is owned by expatriates, white ranchers, and conservation organizations, Maasai communities on the county’s peripheries struggle with declining natural resources, insecurity, poor infrastructure, and weak access to public services. While minority landowners face growing criticism for land inequality in this region, Laikipia remains an icon of the promise or potential of community- based conservation in African drylands. Conservation organizations often cite Laikipia as proof that conservation beyond parks can work if local communities are meaningfully engaged in everyday efforts to protect land and wildlife. Tourism has contributed substantially to Laikipia’s image as a conservation success story, as land relations in the county enable landowners or tour operators to show guests pristine and seemingly unpeopled landscapes. While recognizing that conservation and tourism provide employment and other benefits to some Laikipia Maasai, this dissertation explains the disillusioning affects these industries also have on the Maasai population. This study situates conservation and tourism in what Anna Tsing calls the “global economy of appearances,” where success is often predicated on looking successful in the eyes of investors, clients, and global partners. Discussing a range of conservation efforts in one community I call Ol Tome Group Ranch, the study argues that neoliberal conservation today is largely a project of representing others. Partnering with conservationists and tourism investors not only requires Maasai to change how they use land, but also to present themselves as allies of conservation in ways that their global partners can recognize. In the process, I explain how conservation discourse articulates with many aspects of life in this Maasai community, producing relationships of ‘alienation’ among group ranch residents and conservation partners. This dissertation offers a critical and contemporary look at the politics of community-based conservation and tourism in Laikipia by discussing actors, organizations, industries, and ethnic groups that have not been the focus of other studies in this region. This dissertation is based on 15 months of fieldwork in Laikipia North and nearby areas. Later periods of the study coincided with the deadly pre-election violence that struck Laikipia and neighboring counties in 2017. I discuss the political ramifications of these conflicts by analyzing their coverage in various forms of media, and suggest that pastoralists are serving as scapegoats for Laikipia’s political and environmental problems. The study offers insight on the conflicts and controversies that have enveloped Laikipia County in recent years, and highlights opportunities to strengthen conservation and development partnerships throughout pastoral regions of East Africa. ii Résumé Le comté de Laikipia au Kenya, l’une des destinations de safari les plus prestigieuses d’Afrique de l’Est, est un exemple à la fois des retombées et des défis entourant les efforts de conservation de la nature à l’extérieur des aires protégées administrées par l’État. À Laikipia, où plus de quarante pourcents des terres sont contrôlées par des expatriés, des fermiers blancs et des organismes de préservation de la nature, les communautés Maasai qui résident à la périphérie du comté sont confrontées au déclin des ressources naturelles, à l’insécurité, à des infrastructures déficientes et à un accès limité aux services publics. Bien que la minorité de propriétaires terriens fait face à des critiques croissantes quant à l’iniquité de la répartition des terres, Laikipia demeure le symbole du potentiel d’une préservation de la savane africaine basée sur la communauté. Les organismes de préservation citent fréquemment Laikipia comme preuve que la préservation peut fonctionner au-delà des parcs nationaux lorsque les communautés locales sont significativement impliquées dans les efforts quotidiens pour protéger la terre et la faune. Le tourisme a substantiellement contribué à l’image de Laikipia comme un succès de préservation, la répartition des terres dans le comté permettant aux propriétaires et aux tours opérateurs de montrer aux visiteurs des paysages immaculés et en apparence inhabités. Tout en reconnaissant que la préservation et le tourisme fournissent des emplois et d’autres avantages à certains Maasai de Laikipia, cette thèse met en évidence les effets négatifs que ces activités économiques ont sur la population Maasai. Cette étude situe la préservation et le tourisme dans ce qu’Anna Tsing appelle « l’économie globale des apparences, » dans laquelle le succès est souvent défini selon ce qui semble réussi aux yeux des investisseurs, des clients et des partenaires internationaux. À travers l’analyse d’une série d’initiatives de conservation dans une communauté que j’appelle Ol Tome Group Ranch, cette étude défend l’idée selon laquelle la préservation néolibérale est aujourd’hui principalement une entreprise de représentation de l’autre. Les partenariats avec les organismes de préservation et les entrepreneurs touristiques force les Maasai non seulement à modifier leur utilisation de la terre mais également à se poser en alliés de la conservation d’une façon que leurs partenaires internationaux puissent reconnaître. Ce faisant, j’explique comment le discours sur la préservation s’articule avec plusieurs aspects de la vie dans cette communauté Maasai, aliénant les résidents des ranches et les partenaires de la préservation. Cette thèse présente un regard critique et contemporain sur les politiques de préservation et de tourisme basées sur la communauté à Laikipia en étudiant des acteurs, des organisations, des industries et des groupes ethniques rarement étudiés. Cette thèse se base sur 15 mois de recherches de terrain au nord de Laikipia et dans les environs. Les étapes subséquentes de la recherche ont coïncidé avec les violences préélectorales tragiques qui ont frappé Laikipia et les comtés voisins en 2016 et 2017. J’aborde les ramifications politiques de ces conflits en analysant leur couverture dans divers médias et suggère que ces conflits donnent maintenant un élan à l’amélioration des relations entre les Maasai de Laikipia et leurs voisins. De façon générale, l’étude éclaire les conflits et controverses qui ont touché le comté de Laikipia ces dernières années et met en évidence des opportunités pour renforcer les partenariats de préservation et de développement dans les régions pastorales en Afrique de l’Est. iii Acknowledgements I am grateful, first and foremost, to my supervisor John Galaty for his tireless support of my research. I am also grateful to many scholars at several institutions who have supported my studies in diverse ways: Joost Fontein, Elliot Fratkin, Kregg Hetherington, David McDermott Hughes, Timothy Johns, Saverio Krätli, Setrag Manoukian, Janet McIntosh, Thom Meredith, Freda Nkirote, Kristin Norget, Blair Rutherford, Katja Uusihakala, and Ismael Vaccaro. This project would not have come to fruition without the encouragement of my peers at McGill and elsewhere. They include Julia Bailey, Alec Blair, Miranda Dahlin, Amy Donovan, Arvind Eyunni, Adam Fleischmann, Jennifer Glassco, Kathleen Godfrey, Sally Hough, Qiuyu Jiang, Kariuki Kirigia, Catherine Larouche, Klerkson Lugusa, Carla Massaro, Vanessa McCuaig, Philippe Messier, Jacques Pollini, Lisa Rail, Justin Raycraft, Salau Rogei, Lara Rosenoff- Gauvin, Daniel Ruiz-Serna, Annemiek Pas-Schrijver, Caroline Seagle, Mohamed Sesay, and Corey Wright. I am also grateful to many great thinkers in Kenya for their invaluable inputs in the project: Mali Ole Kaunga, Piranto Mosiany, Mordecai Ogada, and Joseph Ole Simel. Funding and institutional support for this project was generously provided by several organizations: the British Institute in Eastern Africa, l’Institut Français de Recherche en Afrique, the National Geographic Society, the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada (SSHRC), and the Wenner-Gren Foundation for Anthropological Research. Permission to conduct the research was granted by Kenya’s National Commission for Science, Technology, and Innovation. I am also grateful to the officials and community leaders who authorized and supported my research. The Indigenous Movement for Peace and Conflict Transformation (IMPACT), a Laikipia-based advocacy group led by Mali Ole Kaunga, helped me to build inroads in Laikipia and shared many valuable knowledge resources with me. The study also received invaluable support from a research initiative called The Institutional Canopy of Conservation (I-CAN), a partnership between McGill and the African Conservation Centre, funded by SSHRC and Canada’s International Development Research Centre. While in Kenya, I was privileged to be treated as a member of several families who gave time, resources, and space in their homes to help me succeed in my research: the Galaty family, the Lekorere
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