WORKADAY FRANK TEENY BOPPERS BLUES REACHING THEM THE STORE’S OPEN…. THANKS WHERE THEY LIVE — ON HAPPY THANKSGIVING. DESIGNERS, SOCIALS AND CELEBS THEIR SMARTPHONES. ON BEING THANKFUL FOR COFFEE, Bridget Foley’s PAGE 7 B12 SHOTS AND TINDER. PAGE 10 PAGE 9 Diary

EARLIER AND EARLIER XXXXXX Black Friday Becoming Xxx Xxx Xxx Less of an Indicator Xxx Xxx Xxx Xxx By DAVID MOIN By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET BLACK FRIDAY isn’t what it used to be. Once considered the kickoff for holiday gift shop- MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as ping and a bellwether for the season, retailers now resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut see less volume potential on the day and don’t read as perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur deeply into the results. modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus This year, enthusiasm has waned and retailers have eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY themselves to blame, at least partially, for the new voluptur? reality. They’ve already blitzed consumers with pre- Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- WWD labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. Thanksgiving deals and doorbusters, thereby extend- ing the holiday season, and they’re keeping their doors Antiur, nobit faceptat. open on Thanksgiving Day in record numbers, sucking Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci some wind out of the next day and the weekend. im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et The bigger picture is that business has been er- dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus ratic for fall so far, with shoppers generally holding aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as back, becoming more selective than ever, and feeling intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. cash-strapped despite lower gas prices as they con- Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae tend with rising food and health costs. lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con Up to now, there’s been a ton of maneuvering. cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae Retailers have accelerated markdowns and un- repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut leashed new sales ploys and services, from free deliv- et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta eries [even same-day in some cases] to faster check- dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- outs and buying online for store pickup. It’s all about pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem capturing market share, beating last year’s numbers imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate Classics at least by a point or two, and not relying so much con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c to on any particular day, be it Black Friday or Cyber inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio dolorum Monday, to set the momentum. aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem even- So what’s to be expected from this Black Friday? dae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam rere- Another big but comparatively modest turnout in the hen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid eturi malls, judging by retailers and analysts who aren’t tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem im- Retold particularly bullish. Between Thursday, Friday and porrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blant eos A cotton trench and wrap blouse and the weekend, retailers do hope to make up some lost dolupti atistia cus, aborpore landio to blautet as aut silk crepe pants from M. Martin’s sales following the blizzard last week clobbering the offi cipsam earciaes excearum, qui te offi cilicit est aut Midwest and part of the Northeast, and this week’s id mil min ea pore mil iumque pro vit offi cab il en- debut pre-fall 2015 collection rapid warm-up. dantotatum verovid mod et rat.Soloremquiam et pro draw on the legacy of “If we get a good dose of cold weather it will go que pelique plibus et, similiqui ius essi re arum et American sportswear a long way,” said Tony Spring, Bloomingdale’s chair- od mo earum aliquat latur, offi c tem faciend itatend man and chief executive offi cer. “We have done all esequatur molene landit endam solor sene vitaqua ti- — one of many asitaquunt faccuptur sum qui od untorum facitiis do- inspirations SEE PAGE 8 lessita dolupta temporepe platect enistiam con conse- ONES ditae. Itatum et aut ant enim acillor am eos esectas et Alex Gilbert and explam repudae. Nequam, omniminum faceruptatas Jennifer Noyes TO cite for their WATCH Age of Omnichannel new advanced contemporary Arrives Across Retail line. For seven more Xxxxxx Xxxxxx By RACHEL STRUGATZ emerging talents, see By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET pages 4 to 6. RETAILERS ARE at last beginning to flex their om- MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as nichannel muscles. resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut Omnichannel will become more than just an over- perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur used buzzword this holiday season. A series of tech- modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus nological advancements look to link the online and eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut offl ine experiences in a real way — and this means a voluptur? lot more than just arming sales associates with iPads. Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- Black Friday is expected to be less of an event labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. this year, as price promotions have started earlier Antiur, nobit faceptat. and earlier. Amazon and Wal-Mart unleashed holi- Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci day deals on Nov. 1 and, according to a study of chief im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et marketing offi cers conducted by BDO and Market dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus Measurement Inc., more than a third of retailers will aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as have offered the bulk of their holiday promotions by intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. the time consumers sit down to Thanksgiving dinner. Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae Online will also touch more than three-quarters of lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con all holiday shopping experiences, per research con- cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae ducted by location-based mobile platform Retale. Of repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut those surveyed, 54 percent said they would shop both et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta in-store and online, 22 percent said they would shop dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- online only and just 24 percent said they will do all pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem shopping in brick-and-mortar stores. imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate Forrester expects online holiday retail sales to con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c reach almost $89 billion this year — $10 billion more to inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio do- than the period saw last year — and comprising 14 lorum aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem percent of overall holiday retail. evendae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam Until now, the word omnichannel has largely re- rerehen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid ferred to the ability to fulfi ll product demand through eturi tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem any of a retailer’s distribution channels — and for imporrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blan most fi rms that is still the case, according to Kurt PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MODEL: LUIZE/MUSE; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MARCEL DAGENAIS; FASHION ASSISTANT: MILTON DIXON MILTON ASSISTANT: DAGENAIS; FASHION MARCEL HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MODEL: LUIZE/MUSE; SEE PAGE 12 SEE PAGE XX 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014 WWD.COM

MacNaughton Exits Wal-Mart THE BRIEFING BOX dise. Labeed Diab, senior vice president of health By SHARON EDELSON and wellness, will report to Michelle Gloeckler, exec- IN TODAY’S WWD utive vice president of consumables and U.S. manu- DUNCAN MACNAUGHTON, Wal-Mart’s chief mer- facturing. Jack Sinclair will assume another role at chandising officer, has resigned, just as the world’s Wal-Mart, to be announced at a later date. Bratspies, How ready are New largest retailer enters the crucial Black Friday Barron and Gloeckler report to Foran. Yorkers for winter? For through holiday period. “Through Duncan’s leadership, we have focused more, see WWD.com. MacNaughton, who became chief merchandis- on developing our merchants while driving a stron- ing offi cer of Wal-Mart U.S. in January 2011, was ger collaboration between marketing and mer- responsible for all merchandise categories across chandising,” Foran said. “This has made us more more than 3,700 stores. relevant to and focused on our cus- MacNaughton was instrumen- tomers,” president Doug McMillon tal in developing what Wal-Mart said. “I also think it’s important to dubbed as Black Friday Week, an recognize Duncan for his leader- extended shopping period from ship in re-engaging with our sup- Thanksgiving to Cyber Monday. pliers to develop joint business The retailer upped its promotional plans. This work is resulting in bet- posture this year with more door- ter and more localized assortment busters and deals, a price-matching in our stores. We’ll miss his creativ- policy and a holiday “newsroom,” ity and energy.” possibly to fend off Amazon.com. MacNaughton was said to have

Wal-Mart U.S. chief executive been a strong candidate for the posi- JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BBY offi cer Greg Foran sent a memo to tion of Wal-Mart U.S. ceo when Bill Wal-Mart associates today informing Simon departed, after Simon was them of MacNaughton’s departure passed up for the company’s top job, Black Friday, once considered the kickoff for holiday gift to pursue other opportunities. The which went to McMillon. However, shopping and a bellwether for the season, is now leaving ceo also announced a restructuring Wal-Mart named Greg Foran to lead retailers with less volume potential. PAGE 1 of the merchandising organization. Duncan MacNaughton the U.S. business instead. “Duncan’s departure has allowed McNaughton joined Wal-Mart Retailers are at last beginning to fl ex their omnichannel me to relook at our merchandising in 2009 as chief merchandising muscles, as a series of tech advancements look to link online structure and the incredible talent within the team,” offi cer of the retailer’s troubled Canadian divi- and offl ine shopping experiences in a real way. PAGE 1 Foran said. “At this time, I have chosen not to name a sion. In October 2010, he was promoted to execu- new chief merchant. I would like to use this opportu- tive vice president of merchandising of Wal-Mart Many Macy’s employees won’t share home-for-the- nity to get closer to the merchandising organization.” U.S., where he was responsible for consumables, holidays happiness tomorrow. They won’t be home for the Steve Bratspies, executive vice president of gen- health and wellness, and walmart.com. Prior to Thanksgiving holiday. They’ll be at work. PAGE 7 eral merchandise, is executive vice president of food, joining Wal-Mart, MacNaughton fi lled leadership which includes a strong focus on Fresh, Foran said. roles at Kraft Foods, HEB Grocery Company and How does a brand connect with teens when there’s little Andy Barron, executive vice president of softlines Albertsons. He was also executive vice president of discretionary income and an electronic gadget becomes a will also assume responsibility over general merchan- merchandising and marketing at Supervalu. priority over a fashion sweater? PAGE 8

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton stands to post a net capital gain of around 2.4 billion euros as part of a truce with Tiffany Shares Rise on Strong Q3 Sales French luxury rival Hermès International. PAGE 9 earnings per share on an adjusted elry fi rm making a pre-holiday By EVAN CLARK basis were 76 cents, 1 cent below advance in the stock market Gluten-free pizza, Tinder and steroids — just some of the the consensus estimate of 77 cents. Tuesday. things designers, socials and celebrities say they’re really SHARES OF Tiffany & Co. extend- Revenues were up 5.3 per- Signet Jewelers Ltd. made thankful for this year. PAGE 10 ed their winning streak and set a cent to $959.6 million from $911.5 a big move up, even though its new all-time high on Tuesday as million and rose 7 percent on a third-quarter net losses tallied Sean “Diddy” Combs is back in the fragrance game with investors looked past weakness currency-neutral basis, with com- $1.3 million, or 2 cents a diluted plans to launch a men’s scent at Macy’s in late April or early in Japan and disruptions in Hong parable-store sales ahead 2 per- share, and compared with year- May. PAGE 11 Kong to focus in on the Americas, cent, 4 percent without currency ago earnings of $33.6 million, or where third-quarter sales were up fl uctuation. The consensus esti- 42 cents. The most recent results Designer Mariella Burani has signed a three-year licensing 10 percent to $459 million. mate for sales was $970 million. include the impact of Signet’s agreement for the production of a new women’s ready-to- Shares of Tiffany traded as Gross margin increased to 59.5 May 29 acquisition of Zale Corp. wear line, said a spokesman for the manufacturer. PAGE 11 high as $110.60, closing up 2.5 percent of sales from 57 percent as well as purchase accounting, percent to $107.60 in New York. in the year-ago quarter, “primar- severance and transaction costs. Mark Aaron, vice president of ily due to favorable product costs Adjusted earnings of 21 cents ON WWD.COM investor relations at Tiffany, at- and price increases taken across a share came in better than the tributed the sales increase in the all product categories and re- 18 cents analysts had projected They Are Wearing: As temperatures plummeted last week, Americas to “an overall increase gions, as well as a marked shift and helped push the company’s WWD took to the streets to see just how ready New Yorkers in the average price per jewelry in product sales mix toward the stock up 7 percent to $131.59. are for winter. For more, see WWD.com. unit sold, refl ecting price increas- higher-margin fashion jewelry The Zale business helped push es taken in the Americas and category,” the company said. the company’s sales for the three other regions as well, but also months ended Nov. 1 up 53 per- CORRECTIONS stronger demand for gold within cent to $1.18 billion from $771.4 Due to a typographical error, Aimee Cheshire’s Web site, the fashion jewelry category.” million. Comparable-store sales HeyGorgeous.com, was spelled incorrectly on second reference The Twitter and Instagram handle for Annelise Michelson While Tiffany’s luxe offering rose 7.5 percent at the company’s in a story on the plus-size market on page 8, Tuesday. in the U.S. seems to be righted, Kay division, while the Jared was misprinted in an item on page 5, Tuesday. The correct the high-end jeweler still saw brand comped up 6.5 percent. The Twitter and Instagram handle for Annelise Michelson was handle is @annelisemichelson. its third-quarter profi ts drop on 10% Signet’s chief executive of- misprinted in an item on page 5, Tuesday. The correct handle a debt-extinguishment charge TIFFANY’S COMPARABLE SALES fi cer Mark Light noted, “While is @annelisemichelson. and the top and bottom lines fell INCREASE IN THE AMERICAS. Zale same-store sales declined slightly short of analysts’ consen- 0.9 percent, we remain pleased sus estimates. with the Zale division integration FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Paul Lejuez, an analyst at Comp increases were stron- progress. In the short time period @ WWD.com/social Wells Fargo, summed up the gest in the Americas, where they since owning Zale, we have been quarter this way in a note to cli- rose 10 percent, and weakest in able to implement select initia- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. ents: “More Good Than Bad — Japan, where they fell 13 percent tives to further the Zale holiday WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. U.S. Impressive, Europe Better, and were down 6 percent at con- business. We remain confi dent COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 208, NO. 110. WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Asia Weak.” stant currency. in our ability to meet our goal Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and “We believe Tiffany is well- Aaron noted that the company of $150 million to $175 million two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, positioned going into the holiday has 45 stores in Greater China in cumulative three-year syner- and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, season, especially as its new de- with the nine Hong Kong out- gies from January-end 2015 to Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. signs seem to be gaining traction posts’ contribution “a meaningful January-end 2018.” FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please in the U.S.; however, with the part” of those sales. For the fourth quarter, the com- include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes stock trading above its luxury “Recent protests and demon- pany projected same-store sales or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. peers, we believe expectations strations have led to a decline growth of 3 to 4 percent and ad- If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed are high,” Lejuez said. in visitors coming to Hong Kong, justed earnings per share of $2.95 with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a For the three months ended which we believe was the pri- to $3.05 — straddling analysts’ es- subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Oct. 31, Tiffany’s net income con- mary factor adversely affecting timates for profi ts of $3.03 a share. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. tracted 59.6 percent to $38.3 mil- sales at several of our Hong Kong Signet has 3,602 stores and For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. lion, or 29 cents a diluted share, stores, including one at the air- bills itself as the largest specialty To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, from $94.6 million, or 73 cents, port,” Aaron said. The company’s retail jeweler in the U.S., U.K. UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, in the 2013 period. Excluding a comps in the Asia-Pacifi c region and Canada. AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY pretax loss of $93.8 million for fell 3 percent. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS the early extinguishment of debt, Tiffany wasn’t the only jew- FROM ARNOLD J. KARR SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 20

FAIRCHILD SUMMITS15 & EVENTS

WWD DIGITAL BEAUTY FORUM: NEW YORK February 12, New York City WWD MENSWEAR SUMMIT March 26, New York City WWD DIGITAL FORUM: LONDON April 30, London FOOTWEAR NEWS CEO SUMMIT May 11-13, Miami WWD BEAUTY SUMMIT June 9-10, New York City WWD DIGITAL FORUM: NEW YORK CITY September 16-17, New York City WWD APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT October 27-28, New York City WWD DIGITAL FORUM: LOS ANGELES November 10, Los Angeles

*Dates subject to change

TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.4212 TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4824

@wwdsummits Fairchild Summits @wwdsummits 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014

PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE ● ● STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE

the new guard EMERGING TALENTS

● 8 HOLOGRAPHIC UNIVERSE DESIGNER: Aedan Macdonald BACKGROUND: Macdonald, a former carpenter at a high-end custom furniture shop in San Francisco, moved to Los Angeles to open a designer boutique called Foundry in 2012. After designing a capsule collection to be sold in the store, he realized his true passion was design and refocused his career. CONCEPT: Los Angeles-based contemporary line with a techy, Space-Age feel; the spring collection features a collaboration with multimedia artist Pilar Zeta. LAUNCHED: 2014 for spring 2015. VISION: “It’s really special everyday wear,” Macdonald said. “We’re working with basic silhouettes for something wearable, but with our holographic leathers and digital prints, they’re still statement pieces.” PRICE RANGE: $90-$800 POINTS OF SALE: Exclusively at NastyGal.com this spring. SOCIAL MEDIA: Instagram: @holographicunvrs — KRISTI GARCED

● M. MARTIN TEAM: Alex Gilbert and Jennifer Noyes BACKGROUND: Gilbert, a third- generation denim maker, founded Paper Denim & Cloth in 1999. She met Noyes, who started her career in sales at Prada USA, while Noyes was working at Hatch Showroom. CONCEPT: New York-based women’s line of classic, minimalist sportswear with nods to men’s wear tailoring and American sportswear pioneers Bonnie Cashin and early Calvin Klein. LAUNCHED: December 2014 for pre-fall 2015 VISION: “Utility and style [were] at the root of American sportswear when it launched — like, say, an evening gown with pockets,” Gilbert said. “M. Martin is about that day-to-night ease. It’s laid- back luxury for confi dent, strong women like ourselves [who] have multipurpose lives and still want to feel chic and pulled together.” PRICE RANGE: $195-$1,500 POINTS OF SALE: None yet. SOCIAL MEDIA: Instagram: @mmartin_offi cial — K.G. HOLOGRAPHIC UNIVERSE: LACAR EAR CUFF, FALLON EARRING; M. MARTIN: STACY ADAMS SHOES; LISA FOLAWIYO: MALONE SOULIERS SHOES; SAYAKA DAVIS: STACY ADAMS SHOES; ÖHLIN/D: ROBERT CLERGERIE SHOES, GEORGE FROST NECKLACE ADAMS SHOES; ÖHLIN/D: ROBERT STACY DAVIS: SOULIERS SHOES; SAYAKA MALONE ADAMS SHOES; LISA FOLAWIYO: STACY EARRING; M. MARTIN: FALLON UNIVERSE: LACAR EAR CUFF, HOLOGRAPHIC WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014 5 WWD.COM

● ● LISA FOLAWIYO ÖHLIN/D DESIGNER: Lisa Folawiyo TEAM: Anne Deane, president and founder; BACKGROUND: With a law degree and Jacob Park, creative director; Sinéad Lawlor, no formal design training, Folawiyo design director; Giselle Ghofrani, director began designing clothes at of design development and production home after taking time off from BACKGROUNDS: Following her graduation working at a law fi rm. from Duke University, Deane entered the CONCEPT: Lagos, Nigeria- fi nance world, but ditched it to pursue a based collection of career in fashion. She tapped her friend modern silhouettes Park, a stylist, to help develop the brand. with nods to traditional Together, they appointed the design African aesthetics team: Lawlor formerly designed at and fabrics. Diane von Furstenberg, while Ghofrani LAUNCHED: 2005 as Jewel by Lisa; held design roles at Vera Wang and re-branding for spring 2015. Marchesa. VISION: “To create beautiful, CONCEPT: New York-based modern pieces for global advanced contemporary women across the world,” women’s wear featuring said Folawiyo. “This luxe, ethically sourced vision has always been fabrics and alpaca fueled by the need to knitwear. transform and redefi ne the LAUNCHED: Fall 2014 idea of African fashion.” VISION: “We never PRICE RANGE: $450-$1,500 want Öhlin/D to be POINTS OF SALE: about severity,” ModaOperandi.com said Park. “It and ShopBazaar.com is fun, fresh for spring. and easy. The SOCIAL MEDIA: Twitter collection is less and Instagram: about identifying @lisafolawiyo trends and more — K.G. about fi nding a 8 second skin.” PRICE RANGE: $200- $800 POINTS OF SALE: Ohlin-d.com SOCIAL MEDIA: Twitter and Instagram: @ohlinoffi cial — K.G.

ONES TO WATCH

● M. MARTIN TEAM: Alex Gilbert and Jennifer Noyes BACKGROUND: Gilbert, a third- generation denim maker, founded PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; FASHION EDITOR: Paper Denim & Cloth in 1999. She MAYTE ALLENDE met Noyes, who started her career in MODELS: SHELBY/MUSE, GISELE/ONE, RIA/SILENT; HAIR: sales at Prada USA, while Noyes was CLAY NIELSEN/OPUS BEAUTY; MAKEUP: CHEYENNE working at Hatch Showroom. USING CHANEL COSMETICS/ARTMIX CREATIVE; FASHION ASSISTANT: MILTON DIXON CONCEPT: New York-based M. MARTIN PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND; HOLOGRAPHIC women’s line of classic, minimalist UNIVERSE: LACAR EAR CUFF, FENTON FALLON EARRING; sportswear with nods to men’s M. MARTIN: STACY ADAMS SHOES; LISA FOLAWIYO: wear tailoring and American MALONE SOULIERS SHOES; SAKAYA DAVIS: STACY sportswear pioneers Bonnie Cashin ADAMS SHOES; OHLIN/D: ROBERT CLERGERIE SHOES, GEORGE FROST NECKLACE and early Calvin Klein. LAUNCHED: December 2014 for pre-fall 2015 VISION: “Utility and style [were] at ● the root of American sportswear SAYAKA DAVIS when it launched — like, say, an DESIGNER: Sayaka Tokimoto Davis evening gown with pockets,” BACKGROUND: Tokimoto Davis grew up in Japan, where she attended Bunka Gilbert said. “M. Martin is about Fashion College, graduating in 2004. She worked locally as a knitwear designer for that day-to-night ease. It’s laid- fi ve years before moving to New York in 2009, when she joined United Bamboo. back luxury for confi dent, strong CONCEPT: New York-based contemporary collection featuring modern, women like ourselves [who] have minimalist silhouettes, bold colors and asymmetric cuts. multipurpose lives and still want LAUNCHED: 2012 for fall 2013 to feel chic and pulled together.” VISION: “My core elements are something organic contrasted with the unusual,” PRICE RANGE: $195-$1,500 Tokimoto Davis said. “A lot of it comes from my roots, the Japanese aesthetic.” POINTS OF SALE: None yet. PRICE RANGE: $295-$1,000 SOCIAL MEDIA: Instagram: POINTS OF SALE: La Garçonne, Assembly New York, Mill Mercantile, Jumelle, @mmartin_offi cial Weinstein’s and Kick Pleat in the U.S. and United Arrows in Japan. — K.G. SOCIAL MEDIA: Instagram: @sayakadavis — JESSICA IREDALE

PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND MODELS: SHELBY/MUSE, GISELE/ONE, RIA/SILENT; HAIR BY CLAY NIELSEN/OPUS BEAUTY; MAKEUP BY CHEYENNE USING CHANEL COSMETICS/ARTMIX CREATIVE; FASHION ASSISTANT: MILTON DIXON MILTON ASSISTANT: FASHION CREATIVE; CHEYENNE USING CHANEL COSMETICS/ARTMIX MAKEUP BY NIELSEN/OPUS BEAUTY; CLAY HAIR BY GISELE/ONE, RIA/SILENT; MODELS: SHELBY/MUSE, 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014 WWD.COM

TOSIA DESIGNER: Sara Hankin BACKGROUND: After graduating from Syracuse University with a degree in fashion design, Hankin held women’s design roles at J. Crew and Ralph Lauren. CONCEPT: New York-based contemporary women’s line marked by a refi ned ease, clean silhouettes and subtle detailing. LAUNCHED: Fall 2014 VISION: “I’m focused on creating pieces that are progressive yet timeless, forming a wardrobe of elevated essentials that express an effortless modernity,” Hankin said. PRICE RANGE: $195-$995 POINTS OF SALE: Currently: Darling. For spring: Brooklyn Fox and Tosianyc.com. SOCIAL MEDIA: Twitter: @tosianyc; Instagram: @tosia_nyc — K.G. ●

COOPER & ELLA DESIGNER: Kara Mendelsohn BACKGROUND: With a dual degree in psychology and art history from Lafayette College, Mendelsohn moved to New York to pursue fashion and held top sales and merchandising roles at Calvin Klein Collection, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Thakoon and Michael Kors. CONCEPT: New York-based line of colorful, accessibly priced tops and dresses named after Mendelsohn’s two children, featuring original prints. In partnership with The Hope Foundation School in Bangalore, India, one hot, nutritious meal is provided to a child in need with every item sold. LAUNCHED: February 2013 VISION: “Because I was targeting top-tier department stores, I knew that the product had to be elevated in design,” Mendelsohn said. “My customer is looking for something sophisticated, but the price point is what makes it accessible. And I don’t skimp on quality by giving that to her.” PRICE RANGE: Tops, $88-$150; dresses, launching for spring, $225-$240. POINTS OF SALE: Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, Cusp by Neiman Marcus, Scoop, Harvey Nichols and Shopbop.com. SOCIAL MEDIA: Twitter and Instagram: @cooperandella — K.G.

ONES ● ● KATHERINE FEINER TO DESIGNER: Katherine Feiner BACKGROUND: Feiner studied WATCH couture and textiles at the London College of Fashion and held design internships at Vera Wang, Preen and Jill Stuart before landing a merchandising job at Burberry. CONCEPT: New York-based contemporary collection of feminine silhouettes in fl owing fabrics with colorful prints developed in-house. LAUNCHED: 2012, then relaunched as contemporary in 2013. VISION: “We’re making these clothes for a feminine, classic woman,” Feiner said. “It’s about the places we go, where we want to go and how we want to feel. The whole thing was about my mood and who I wanted to be and how I wanted to look. It’s about making memories — really living in your clothes.” PRICE RANGE: $130-$465 POINTS OF SALE: Neiman Marcus and Katherinefeiner.com SOCIAL MEDIA: Twitter and Instagram: @katherinefeiner — K.G. the new guard WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014 7 WWD.COM Home for the Holiday? Not These Days “It was time for Alex and Bella to head ine if offi ce workers were told that since I assume workers are being paid fair- I “It’s just about money…After the back home for the holidays — the best phones will be quiet, Thursday afternoon ly, not only at union doors but at Lord & Thanksgiving Day Parade is over, it’s place to celebrate in the galaxy and cer- will be a great time to discuss strategy? Taylor and other non-union stores. But back to business because there’s so tainly the best place on Earth.” Streamline fi les? Organize the fashion should stores be open on Thanksgiving much competition.” closet? If teachers were scheduled for in the fi rst place? “I’m not responding to THAT HEARTWARMING line runs afternoon in-school tutoring sessions? that,” Appelbaum said. “I’m not going to I “These are new times. The city is fast. across the last of Macy’s Herald Square’s If dental hygienists had to check in for make a determination for society wheth- Lots of tourists. It’s about making money. holiday windows telling the some cleaning and polishing? er or not we want retailers to be open. I Once one store did it, they were all going story of a boy’s Christmas ad- This isn’t a j’accuse. I won- am going to say, if they are open, this is to do it.” venture traveling through the der why as a society we deem it the way they have to do it.” galaxy. Unfortunately, many OK? It seems to me that those If the head of the union won’t voice an Employees stressed that working on Macy’s employees won’t share who work in ground-fl oor re- opinion, who will? I spent Monday after- Thanksgiving Day is optional. And even little Alex’s home-for-the-hol- tail, who deal with customers noon at Macy’s and Lord & Taylor, asking with the appeal of overtime pay, of those idays happiness, at least not day in and day out, are per- employees on the fl oor what they think of I spoke with, only three full-time employ- tomorrow. They won’t be home ceived as separate and apart their stores being open on Thanksgiving. ees had signed up, the majority opting for for the Thanksgiving holiday. from the rest of the workforce, I spoke with more than 35 people, most- home and turkey. My fi rst Macy’s conver- They’ll be at work. that they’re shown a lack of re- ly sales associates, but some stock and sation was with an older, elegant man, They won’t be alone. Lord & Bridget Foley’s spect from both employer and maintenance people as well. A proper who said the opinion is generational, that Taylor, J.C. Penney, Old Navy, Diary consumer. Presidents’ Day, July scientifi c sample? No, but still illuminat- the older people (read: long-term, union Kohl’s, Target, Kmart, Sears, Fourth, Labor Day (when we’re ing. I chose those specifi c retailers not to employees) are “not with it at all,” but Wal-Mart, H&M, Gap, Zara, salivating over sales, do we pick on them, but for two reasons: First, the younger ones “are mostly seasonal Victoria’s Secret and Sephora are among even consider the irony?) have become their crossover to Thanksgiving hours and do OK with time-and-a-half,” happy those retailers opening at least some shopping bacchanals. played like a sea change when it only for the money for bills and school. Given doors for all or part of Thanksgiving Day. I tried to get perspective on this, on happened over the past couple of years. that framework, I looked for people of Some will open bright and early in the whether stores and consumers are jus- Macy’s will open two hours earlier this different ages. Among employees who morning, dispensing with any pretense of tifi ed in demanding near-365-day brick- year than last, and Lord & Taylor invites looked middle-aged or older, most were holiday consideration; others, late after- and-mortar shopping. If yes, why, and shoppers in from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. More appalled at the thought of working on noon, affording their employees the op- what does it say about us as a society importantly, I wanted to ensure the em- Thanksgiving and declined to take a shift. portunity to eat and run. Some of those that we either haven’t considered or ployees complete anonymity. (Hence, the in the latter camp are running television I “Thanksgiving is supposed to be ads inviting customers to start Black about family.” Friday early, at 5 or 6 p.m. on Thursday, tactfully using the day of the week in- I “You should respect the holiday, no?” stead of “Thanksgiving.” When did this happen? When did an I “I don’t work on that kind of day. I have entire sector of the U.S. workforce be- family, kids.” come ineligible to expect something that most of us take for granted: the occasion- I “I don’t think anything should be al paid holiday? Why has Thanksgiving- opened on Thanksgiving. You should be as-shopping-op become ubiquitous with with your family.” so little noticeable dissent? Obviously, there’s a basic principle of I “We hardly have any holidays to begin supply and demand at play, a commercial with — Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, perversion of the quote from “Field of Easter. Now we’re opening at 6 o’clock.” Dreams”: If you open, they will come. And in recent years, come they have, leading The youth vote wasn’t as one-sided as more and more retailers to build yet an- my fi rst interview subject suggested. It other shopping day into the year. What is turned out, plenty of young people appre- it for most stores — the 364th? Is the extra ciated family time. Several I spoke with day that necessary to remain competitive? are seasonal and took their jobs knowing Not all stores do it. How do the holdouts the likelihood of working Thanksgiving survive and fl ourish? Invariably, p.r. speak was strong. Still, many noted that they’d from those who open their holiday doors prefer not to work. One young man cites the customer-fi rst rule, and often, The fi ne print: Macy’s windows call home “the best place to celebrate.” thanked me for doing the story. “It’s im- that such shifts are voluntary and attrac- GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY portant. Thanksgiving is for families. I’m tive to those who appreciate the holiday- going to have to jump up from the table rate pay. don’t care how it impacts those charged and come to work.” A 20-year-old waxed Really? Have these retailers put the with servicing our acquisitive, price-con- nostalgic: “Back in the day, Thanksgiving matter to an anonymous employee vote? scious lust? (Those holiday “deals” are Why has was about family. Now, it’s different.” Even if all arguments rang true, is the irresistible bait.) At Macy’s, only a few people declined it right for those who work retail to be Kate Bronfenbrenner, PhD, direc- Thanksgiving-as- to engage. Among those who did, I sensed treated differently than almost everyone tor of labor education research at zero fear factor. Lord & Taylor presented else in the private sector? While time- Cornell’s School of Industrial and Labor shopping-op become a different vibe, one guarded to the point and-a-half defi nitely has its appeal, com- Relations, put it this way: “In this so- of defensive. The difference may lie in mon sense and our own lives tell us that ciety, it seems that when people offer Appelbaum’s point about union versus so, too, does the notion of once in a great sales, people show up. And how they ubiquitous with non-union, and perhaps, in the concrete while getting paid to do nothing. act — the anger level and anxiety level differences between the stores. Macy’s is Yes, essential services must be main- — people aren’t just shopping, they’re so little noticeable huge, crowded and more suited to covert tained — different story. And entertain- shopping with vengeance.” conversation. ment and social venues are open on holi- Even minus shoppers’ wrath, I spoke with only nine people, almost days — Broadway theaters, restaurants, Bronfenbrenner worries about the im- dissent? all of whom started by saying they’re private dining clubs. But that feels differ- pact on families, especially since so not allowed to speak to the press. Some ent, as workers in those areas at least toil many retail employees are single moth- direct quotes below reference no particu- then spoke to the press, each offer- in the service of others’ holiday enjoy- ers. “There’s a ripple effect with women lars other than the speaker’s gender and, ing the same disclaimer, that working ment. For all its inherent joys, shopping workers,” she said. “Women are told, when relevant, approximate age.) Thanksgiving is purely voluntary. One doesn’t carry the same festive relief, es- ‘You need to work holidays and you need Most, though not all, opinions shared woman, a believer in the traditional no- pecially while trampling the woman next to work these wee-hour shifts.’ So chil- came from Macy’s (I’ll get to that). Some tion of holidays, asked that I not compro- to you for that 70-percent-off minaudière. dren are going to be alone, and elderly, people spoke dispassionately and intel- mise her. Another proposed that work- A lame argument, perhaps. But there’s who are dependent on these women, are ligently about consumer demand and ing the holiday might be a nice option an old saying that perfect shouldn’t be left uncared for.” competitive practices. Virtually no one for employees who might otherwise be the enemy of good. Bronfenbrenner pointed out that even said, “I think it’s great that my store is alone and sad on Thanksgiving. (She’s For retail workers in particular, to when such work is not mandatory, people open on Thanksgiving,” though several not among them; she’ll be dining with work on Thanksgiving is awful. Over might feel compelled to volunteer, fear- noted that overtime can be enticing. The the in-laws.) One woman, a seemingly the next month, few other workers will ful that without the extended hours, their most enthusiastic endorsement came delightful, big-personality type, followed work harder, clocking if not more hours employers won’t stay competitive and from a young man who said, “I’m not the “no-press” recitation with “Happy (overtime voluntary!), than more bizarre their jobs could be in jeopardy. against it. I think Thanksgiving is not holidays and God bless you.” ones (the midnight shifts). And no one Stuart Appelbaum, president of the necessarily an important holiday for the She may or may not have reported will have to smile through more episodes Retail, Wholesale and Department Store store to be closed.” me to security. Soon after our pleasant, of often-atrocious customer behavior. Union, noted that at Macy’s Herald That lukewarm endorsement aside, 30-second nonconversation, a good-look- Volunteerism be damned. The fact that Square and other union outposts, a the prevailing attitude was that stores ing young man, more stern than the situa- sales associates and others who facilitate contract regulates the approach to holi- should be closed on Thanksgiving, tion warranted, approached me. He knew the retail customer’s experience cannot day shifts. He voiced concern for non- though employees are resigned, a feeling what I was up to, and said that if I didn’t reap the benefi ts of one day of forced union workers. “The only people who expressed at times with wistfulness and, leave, he’d escort me out of the store. family enjoyment — or rest, or just hang- should be working on Thanksgiving are less often, with disgust. I left without buying anything, party ing out — is appalling. those who choose to do so voluntarily line included. This doesn’t happen in any other em- and are compensated appropriately,” I “It’s the times we live in. I don’t think Working or not, Happy Thanksgiving ployment arena in the U.S. Can you imag- Appelbaum said. it’s going to get any better.” to you and yours. 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014 Early Deals Taking Wind Out of Black Friday {Continued from page one} Friday deals much earlier.” Based on data on customer Thanksgiving travel on the East cent spike since October due to we can do at this point,” Spring On Tuesday, ShopperTrak store visits and buying behav- Coast and in the Appalachians. the release of the movie “Ouija.” said, adding that he believes issued a statement that Black ior, RetailNext expects sales for A change to snow will take place ShopRunner found that 57 Bloomingdale’s bought the right Friday used to reign supreme the November-December period from west to east from northern percent of its customers started merchandise for the season. in volume and in-store traffic, to be flat to down 1 percent, an Virginia to New England. That online holiday shopping before “We’re feeling pretty good about but this year Super Saturday improvement over last year’s 3.6 doesn’t bode well for retailers Thanksgiving, with 52 percent the holiday season overall.” [the Saturday before Christmas] percent decline, with a smaller open on Thanksgiving, but online planning to shop for themselves “We are very prepared,” said will be the biggest day on both decrease in traffic (down about business could make up some (one-fifth of these consumers Kathryn Bufano, ceo of The Bon- counts, followed by Black Friday 4 percent versus a 6.5 percent of the shortfall. AccuWeather will buy items that retail for Ton Stores Inc. She said the re- in terms of sales, and the day decline last year), a move to an also reported ice and snow will $1,000 and up). gional department store chain after Christmas in terms of increase in conversion (up 0.5 create slippery travel for some “We’ve invested in an even is offering strong items, is in a traffic. Super Saturday sales percent from down 0.2 percent) northern states on Black Friday, easier, convenient customer ex- better stock position than a year reached $8.8 billion last year. and a larger increase in average but the weather will cooper- perience,” said Will Setliff, execu- ago and has a stronger market- According to the International transaction value (up 3.5 per- ate for shoppers over most of tive vice president of marketing at ing program. Council of Shopping Centers cent versus up 2.4 percent). the nation. Cities with poten- Kohl’s Corp., referring to Kohl’s But the business has been flat and Goldman Sachs’ chain-store Standard & Poor’s predicts tial icy spots include Boston; improved app, which was recently and below what was expected. sales index, sales for the seven a 2.5 to 3 percent gain in holi- Portland, Maine; Albany, N.Y.; relaunched. “We know that mobile “Our Charity Day in the second days ended Saturday rose 1.7 week of November and the week percent over the year-ago period of Veteran’s Day were very good but logged a 2.2 percent increase Markdowns have been more commonplace and weeks, but this past week has over the prior week. The latter heavier this year, while fluctuating weather been a little soft,” Bufano said. mark is the strongest sequential patterns have also weighed on traffic. “To say it’s been up and down all gain for sales since they posted a season is an understatement.” 2.9 percent increase during the The week or so preceding Black week ended May 31. Friday, Bufano observed, “a “Early Black Friday promo- couple of years ago was pre- tions helped propel sales on shopping or browsing. It’s accel- a week-over-week basis,” said erated to actual buying and it’s Michael Niemira, research consul- snowballed to earlier than ever.” tant for ICSC. “Weather was a bit “We feel the anticipation of a mixed bag over the past week and buildup surrounding Black for retailers as colder weather got Friday is not near where it was the consumer in the winter ap- a few years ago, especially as re- parel mind-set. However, extreme tailers kept Black Friday deals weather in some parts of the coun- under wrap. Now Black Friday try curbed consumers’ ability and has become Black Monday, desire to shop.” Tuesday, Wednesday and RetailNext, the San Jose, MAGES tty I

Thursday,” said Jennifer Black Calif.-based retail metric E /G of Jennifer Black & Associates. monitoring service, expects p “Black Friday is upon us, and brick-and-mortar retail traffic the hype surrounding it has to be flat to slightly down dur- begun to peter off. More and ing the four days beginning on more consumers are taking to Thanksgiving, with sales up 2 to the ’Net to do the majority of 3 percent based on increases in their shopping and we believe conversion (up 1 to 2 percent)

the average consumer has and average transaction value. JEWEL SAMAD/AF photo by started the bulk of their holiday Shelley Kohan, vice president shopping much earlier than the of retail consulting, said the day 2014 sales, including gen- Hartford, Conn.; Harrisburg, technology is more important than traditional Black Friday kickoff. expectations are based on a eral merchandise, clothing, Pa., and Martinsburg, W.Va. ever. The mobile app enhances the We have, however, seen traffic at slow start to business in the furniture, electronics, sporting Most road surfaces should have experience for browsing, shopping the malls begin to pick up over early part of November and, in goods, hobby, books and office dried off around New York City, and managing savings offers.” the last several weeks in antici- some regions, the onset of win- supplies, but excluding auto and Philadelphia and Washington Even though consumers pation of Black Friday and re- try weather early in the month food sales. That compares to the in the wake of the Wednesday weren’t as confident this month tailers implementing their Black leading to pent-up demand. 3.3 percent average since 1992, storm, but icy spots are possible compared with last month and last year’s meager 0.87 per- in the northern and western sub- — the Consumer Confidence cent gain. There’s a sense that urbs created from the piles of Index fell to 88.7 from 94.1 in consumers have been foregoing snow left behind. October — Lynn Franco, direc- smaller-ticket items, in favor of Forrester predicts that on- tor of economic indicators at Ferguson Protesters: home and automotive. line sales will account for 14 The Conference Board, said There are concerns that if the percent of all holiday retail and in November, income expec- upcoming Thanksgiving week- reach almost $90 billion this tations were “virtually un- ‘Boycott Black Friday’ end disappoints, retailers will year — a $10 billion increase changed and gas prices remain get desperate and trigger un- from last year. But the online low, which should help boost THE JUSTICE for Michael for 1 day? America spends planned promotions quickly. As world, like the brick-and-mor- holiday sales.” Brown Leadership Coalition 50 billion over Black Friday Kay Krill, ceo of Ann Inc., told tar world, expects Black Friday Susan Anderson, analyst has reportedly asked con- Weekend...Money runs this WWD last week, “Everybody to be less of an event this year at FBR Capital Markets & sumers to show their re- country, not justice...Close is gearing up for this one to be as price promotions kicked off Co., said she’s expecting that spect for Brown, a black your wallets...Let the stores the most promotional [season]. even earlier than prior seasons. “heightened promos will be re- unarmed teenager who on see Red.” Another post I’m hoping we don’t have to go Amazon deals, for example, quired to drive sales this Black Aug. 9 was shot and killed read, “If they don’t value deeper than we are planning.” started on the first of the month. Friday…With another short following an encounter with our lives, then don’t value About one-third of the malls will According to a statement holiday shopping period, we ex- a white police officer in our dollars.” But Branding be open on Thanksgiving, ver- from Google, “the frenzy of Black pect retailers to fight for share Ferguson, Mo., and abstain Gladiator wrote, “boycott sus about 10 percent a year ago, Friday is no longer confined to of early traffic amidst the con- from shopping during the COULD be impactful IF it Krill estimated. a single day” and has become a tinued secular decline in mall Thanksgiving weekend. didn’t also hurt minority Macy’s, Nordstrom, L Brands, monthlong shopping event. Per traffic.” Anderson noted that On Tuesday, the grand businesses...ahem can yawl Michael Kors, Under Armour, search trends on Google, insights “Black Week,” as FBR called jury decided not to indict rethink this?” The North Face, Uniqlo and from Google Consumer Surveys it last year, began earlier this the police officer, Darren Dacia Polk, a member Costco are among the brands and Google Express’ top trending year, with retailers such as Gap, Wilson, setting off protests of the New Black Panther and retailers seen faring bet- purchases, it will be the most mo- Banana Republic, Old Navy and in several cities across the Party, was quoted in sever- ter than most, while teen, mass bile season to date. Google search Aéropostale starting promotions U.S. With the exception of al publications as saying, and moderate chains such activity for “Black Friday,” across this past weekend. riots in Ferguson, nearly “There will be no business as Sears Holdings Corp. and the U.S. specifically, is most situ- Sterne Agee’s Ike Boruchow all of the protests were as usual. Until this nation Abercrombie & Fitch Co. are ated in Omaha, Neb.; Louisville, said Thanksgiving hours will peaceful. begins to place value on not expected to turn in strong Ky.; Nashville; Augusta, Ga., and “cannibalize Black Friday sales, The idea of boycotting black lives, there will be performances. Wal-Mart Stores Westland, Michigan. rather than creating incremen- one of the most important no value placed on this Inc. and Target Corp., coming off Game consoles and tablets are tal opportunities.” selling days of the year for business, because black a bad 2013 holiday run, should the top gifts trending on Google Standard & Poor’s retail many retailers took on a life lives matter.” do better and receive a tailwind Shopping, and wearable technol- credit analyst Robert Schulz of its own on social media. Calls to the New Black from lower gas prices. Neiman ogy is gaining steam. Among the said, “Sales may rise, but mar- On Twitter on Tuesday, there Panther organization were Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue most popular apparel searches gins will depend on retailers’ were a plethora of posts re- not returned and a spokes- should fare OK with the stock are weather-related items like inventory positions, the cadence lating to the boycott, such man for fergusonaction.com market up and affluent custom- Hunter boots and Canada Goose of their promotional activity and as #BlackoutBlackFriday: A said, “We are not able to ad- ers feeling rich. jackets. Searches for jogger pants how they handle consumers’ Nationwide Day of Action & dress inquiries for the New AccuWeather reported on have gone up 39 percent since burning desire for discounts.” United Retail Boycott. One Black Panther Party.” Tuesday that a storm with rain October. Toys like Ouija boards —With contributionS post read: “Can you do it — S.E. and heavy snow will cause and My Little Pony are trending as from Vicki m. Young, Arnold major disruptions and delays for well, the former seeing a 300 per- J. kArr And ShAron EdElSon WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014 9 WWD.COM Fixing the Angst Among Teen Retailers product. She’s willing to invest cent said they plan to shop on By VICKI M. YOUNG in shoes and bags, but she won’t Thanksgiving Day and 79.9 per- in clothes. She buys clothes cent will shop on Black Friday. GETTING THE attention of at H&M because in a season, Other teen retailers, increasingly distracted young they’re out,” he said. such as American Eagle and people gets harder each quarter. Lipman noted that it’s hard Aéropostale, declined to update Product offerings aren’t the to define what cool is, but their digital strategy. In a dis- only thing that has to resonate “whether it’s communication cussion earlier this year, execu- with teens. Equally important through native advertising or tives at Aéropostale noted that is fi guring out how to market e-mail, the content they see and the brand communicates differ- to teens so they connect with hear has to be really cool. Cool ently on each channel — Twitter,

— and feel as if they own — a can be the person who is wear- Pinterest, YouTube — and tries brand. But how does a brand ing the clothes.” to retain the spirit of the brand do that when there’s little dis- Lipman recounted a week- using the native language of cretionary income and an elec- end where fi ve teens were at each channel. tronic gadget becomes a priority his home, with two laptops in Sam Sohaili, executive cre- over a fashion sweater? the room. “No one looked at the ative director at DMA United,

Go mobile. Communication laptops, it was all right off the cautioned that “Facebook and among teens is mostly accom- smartphone. That’s where they Twitter sound like old school plished through their smart- were searching out things, what when talking to teens. Teens phones, with social and digi- to do, where to go,” he said. want their own space. Right now tal media the common access How do retailers integrate they are into Vine, which fea- points on how they stay connect- their product lines into a teen’s tures quick bits of information ed to one another. It’s also how lifestyle and stay’’ top-of-mind, videos. Whether in that space or they share and get opinions on particularly with a generation using the plethora of texting apps where to shop and what to buy. that is no longer as brand loyal out there, they want their own Weak store traffi c has been as their older counterparts? rooms and their own identity to a key issue for many retail- Abercrombie is using its Abercrombie & Fitch has bought real estate on Twitter’s “top trending topic.” defi ne where they hang out. They ers, although some have seen marketing dollars to buy prime want to fi nd their own path.” a pickup in direct-to-consumer real estate on social media crowd and Abercrombie ads Night” to parallel the shopping According to Sohaili, teens sales. Abercrombie & Fitch sites during the Thanksgiving being pushed to the older teen theme, with an artist creating a don’t want to be associated earlier this month said third- Day weekend. demographic. Further, each customized Spotify playlist for with the previous generation’s quarter sales slowed at its Craig Brommers, brand will push its own must- the evening. At Hollister, the brands, noting that one needs stores, although direct-to-con- Abercrombie’s senior vice presi- have items on Instagram to retailer is working with teen to look at what they aspire to sumer comps rose 8 percent. dent for marketing, said, “We own inspire teens on their Black social media infl uencer Brent be. That is a major hurdle for And Urban Outfi tters Inc. said the prime advertising position Friday shopping trips. Rivera in a real-time engage- established retailers like A&F, last week when it reported a on all of the social platforms that Brommers, who declined to ment throughout Thanksgiving Aéropostale and American 32.9 percent drop in profits matter to our target consumer.” disclose the actual dollars paid Day on Vine. That begins early Eagle. Abercrombie already has that comparable-store sales on, with Rivera asking friends found, for example, that logos on were down at its core Urban and fans to determine how he its merchandise no longer mean stores, but up 15 percent at Free should spend every minute as much to its targeted consum- People and up 2 percent at its The most important thing for her is of the day — his “advineture” er as they did with their older Anthropologie Group. In con- — and ending with a visit to siblings. That means the mind trast, American Eagle Outfi tters a Hollister store in Southern connection with teens, as well Inc. earlier this month raised whether the brand is cool or not, California that night. as the fashion content of its mer- adjusted third-quarter diluted Billy May, Abercrombie chandise, will become increas- earnings per share guidance to and what is the product. group’s vice president for di- ingly important in grabbing and 22 cents, up from its previous rect-to-consumer, digital and maintaining market share. forecast range of 17 cents to 19 — DAVID LIPMAN customer marketing, said the Sohaili noted that “16-year- cents. The company also noted events were planned to be “top- old girls love MK by Michael that third-quarter net revenues of-mind for our target consum- Kors. What is getting them there declined slightly on a compa- Brommers also noted that for the placements, said, “We ers. Their attention span is very are the values associated with rable sales — stores and e-com- the company’s Hollister brand want to own share of voice in limited and there are lots of that brand. Marc Jacobs is re- merce — decline of 5 percent. will be the fi rst to advertise on this big shopping period. We competition. We want to make doing Marc by Marc Jacobs. I’m With the prime shopping sea- Snapchat for Black Friday, as want to be where the kid is.” sure we are in all the chan- sure he is looking at how the son underway, how teen retail- well as be the only specialty re- The retailer is working with nels in which they are hanging young consumer is aspiring to ers plan to interact with their tailer to advertise on its platform. the mind-set of a “week-long out [as well as] make sure they that brand.” customer base could be key to For the Abercrombie brand, party” beginning on Thursday at have a seamless and relevant To inject excitement into the helping their fourth-quarter and the retailer has purchased on 6 p.m., when many stores open, experience.” He said 85 per- category, companies could cre- full-year bottom lines. Twitter different marketing with integrated promotions on- cent of teens start their shop- ate a new concept for the teen Advertising guru and consul- platforms, including the real line, in-store and via apps on ping engagement online, with 75 market, one that’s ownable by tant David Lipman described estate on the “top trending mobile devices through Cyber percent of e-mails opened on a that generation, Sohaili added, the communication between topic” on Thanksgiving Day, Monday. It will also use geo-tar- smartphone. noting that the rebellious identi- teen and brand as organic via as well as gift-card giveaways geting to push advertisements to The National Retail ty associated with Abercrombie social and digital media. “If they for use that night. On the same consumers who ’’are near a store Federation said that nearly for the previous generation is talk to her by way of planned day on Facebook, Brommers about items they have searched eight in 10, or 79.6 percent, of not the same as how teens look messaging, they would lose said, “we will own the demo- for on a mobile device. 18- to 24-year-olds are likely at the world today. her. The most important thing graphics,” with Hollister ad- The party atmosphere at to shop over the Thanksgiving “The sense of ownability for her is whether the brand vertisements being served Abercrombie begins with the weekend, the highest of any — that’s the puzzle to crack,” is cool or not, and what is the up for the younger Hollister playing of the song “Up All age group. About 22.6 per- Sohaili said.

public prosecutor, and an action against LVMH Shareholders OK Hermès Stake Redistribution Hermès executives for damages and per- sonal liability. held. Assuming Hermès shares are LVMH, Dior and Groupe Arnault — LVMH surprised markets in October By JOELLE DIDERICH trading at 260 euros, or $322, on Dec. companies controlled by Bernard Arnault 2010 by revealing it had amassed a large 17, LVMH will log a consolidated gain — have agreed not to acquire any shares stake in Hermès via cash-settled equity PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis of 2.4 billion euros post-tax, LVMH in Hermès for the next fi ve years, leaving swaps that allowed it to circumvent the Vuitton stands to post a net capital gain chief financial officer Jean-Jacques the door open to potential synergies be- usual regulations requiring fi rms to de- of around 2.4 billion euros, or $2.97 bil- Guiony told the meeting. tween the two companies in the future. clare share purchases. lion at current exchange, after its share- LVMH’s 23.2 percent stake in Hermès The two fi rms had traded barbs and holders on Tuesday approved the redis- is worth an estimated 6.4 billion euros, lawsuits over four years regarding tribution of the conglomerate’s stake in or $7.94 billion, and refl ects a total cap- LVMH’s creeping stake in Hermès. Their Hermès International as part of a truce ital gain realized by LVMH of 3.4 bil- conciliation was brokered by Franck between the French luxury rivals. lion euros, or $4.22 billion, according to Gentin, president of the Commercial As reported, the two parties in sources and analysts’ tallies. Court of Paris. 23.2% September signed an agreement under After the redistribution, Groupe The truce put an end to “all related LVMH’S HOLDING IN HERMÈS. which LVMH is to distribute its 25.5 mil- Arnault — the Arnault family’s private eq- actions” between the two companies, al- lion shares in Hermès to shareholders uity arm — will hold around 8.5 percent of luding to a series of defamation claims as a dividend in kind on Dec. 17. The the capital of Hermès International. The and criminal complaints on both sides. resolution passed at a combined general free fl oat of Hermès, which shriveled to Hermès had accused LVMH of insider France’s stock market regulator AMF meeting held in Paris. about 6 percent of the share capital fol- trading, share-price manipulation and subsequently ordered LVMH to pay 8 Shareholders will receive two lowing LVMH’s stake building, should in- complicity, with LVMH striking back million euros, or $9.9 million, the largest Hermès shares for 41 LVMH shares crease to more than 20 percent. with a claim of false accusation with the fi ne it had ever imposed. 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014

“All of the people that live in our apartment building. We have a lot of good neighbors. When you get on the elevator in my building, you’re probably in for a pretty good chat.” — SETH MEYERS “Gluten-free pizza, B12 “I feel really grateful that Kim shots, lychee and Kanye have a new house to martinis move into and will be moving in We can all tick off the same two months.” — KRIS JENNER boilerplate — family, friends, and my food good health, etc. — when processor.” asked what we’re thankful for. — JENNIFER FISHER But life’s all about the small indulgences, isn’t it? With Thanksgiving approaching, WWD asked designers, socials and celebs what they’re really thankful for this year. Frank Thanks “I’m thankful for Tinder. It’s We can all tick off the same boxes my ticket into a world of single, — family, friends, good health, straight men I never knew etc. — when asked what we’re existed. It’s a bit like playing slot thankful for. But life’s all about the small indulgences, isn’t it? With machines, only you can choose Thanksgiving approaching, WWD your oranges and apples and “Oversize coffee to go.” asked designers, socials the stock is inexhaustible. — REECE SOLOMON and celebs what they’re really Hooray for Tinder!” thankful for this year. — NATALIE JOOS

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye.

“The reality show ‘Big Brother.’ I know it’s awful, but I love it. ‘Big Brother’ gets me because it’s, like, a “Thatcher, the love of my life.” six-month process. When it’s over, I feel like I’ve lost — MISHA NONOO friends. I really need a hobby.” — BOBBY MOYNIHAN

“Steroids.” — RICK OWENS

“Chapstick. It’s freezing out.” “Spotify. I have all my music with me — JACQUELYN JABLONSKI whatever happens and anywhere.” — ALBERTA FERRETTI FERRETTI AND MOYNIHAN PHOTOS BY JIMI CELESTE; LEYLAND, JOOS AND MEYERS BY STEVE EICHNER; JABLONSKI BY AMBER DE VOS; FISHER BY MICHAEL LOCCISANO/GETTY IMAGES FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES; PACKHAM BY VIVIEN KILLILEA/GETTY IMAGES; PACKHAM RUNWAY BY RODIN BANICA; JENNER BY ROBERT MITRA; NONOO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MITRA; NONOO BY ROBERT RODIN BANICA; JENNER BY BY RUNWAY VIVIEN KILLILEA/GETTY BY IMAGES; PACKHAM TIMES; PACKHAM IMAGES FOR THE NEW YORK MICHAEL LOCCISANO/GETTY AMBER DE VOS; FISHER BY BY JIMI CELESTE; LEYLAND, STEVE EICHNER; JABLONSKI FERRETTI PHOTOS JOOS BY AND MEYERS BY AND MOYNIHAN GETTY BUTTONS TIM JENKINS IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO; BY OWENS BY COOPER NEILL/GETTY BY IMAGES FOR W HOTELS; OWENS’ WEIGHTS AND MEYERS’ ELEVATOR SOLOMON WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014 11 WWD.COM

time when she finds fashion and brands tour New York. which includes editorial “very much lacking femininity. But the He arrives at the Park shoots in Vogue, CBS MeMo pad dream to have the Gucci [company] back Hyatt hotel in Midtown Watch magazine, as well will remain so — too much money would clad in a navy zip-up as a shoot in Karl Lagerfeld JOHN GALLIANO SAID TO PRESENT AWARD: be necessary.” jacket, jeans and a pair and Carine Roitfeld’s Could John Galliano be planning a trip Reggiani refers to the Milan prison of sneakers. Unlike your book “The Little Black to London next week? According to San Vittore, where she was due to spend average tourist, however, Jacket: Chanel’s Classic industry sources, Martin Margiela’s 26 years, as “Victor residence,” and a Siem carries a tattered, Revisited.” He has also new creative director and Dior’s former place where she realized the power she threadbare violin case, appeared in Dunhill’s couturier will be the man to hand Anna had over people. “I very much ordered similar to that of a street ad campaign and more Wintour her Outstanding Achievement the inmates around and all of them, performer or road-worn recently, he was the face of Award at the 2014 British Fashion indistinctly, obeyed without a word.” musician. The difference Giorgio Armani’s Eau de Awards on Dec. 1. At first, she admits, she was “beaten here is that inside, Nuit fragrance. As reported, the editor of American up,” but she “returned [the blows] right there’s a shiny 300-year- But the Londoner Vogue and artistic director of Condé away, and with interests. And after that, old Stradivarius, would rather talk about Nast will be recognized during the nobody touched me anymore. Actually, which Siem will play the violin — his passion homas Iannaccone Siem with his ceremony at the London Coliseum for the others started to imitate me, to wear the following night at t 300-year-old since he was three years her contribution to the fashion industry. makeup and perfume […]” Carnegie Hall. Stradivarius violin. old — and his life as a Spokespeople for the British Fashion Given her good conduct, Reggiani Before slipping performer. photo by photo by Council and for Vogue declined comment. is completing her sentence in social into his usual uniform “The violin is like — SAMANTHA CONTI AND MILES SOCHA service work, which allows her a gig of a tailored suit and tie, Siem, a having a relationship with someone or at Milan-based costume jewelry firm concert violinist and occasional model, something. You’ve got to compromise,” MAURIZIO GUCCI’S WIDOW SPEAKS: Patrizia Bozart, as reported, for which she says ruminated about his next gig as the face he said. “I’ve learned from experience Reggiani, after serving 17 years in jail she is paid 600 euros, or $743 at current of Hugo Boss. about discipline.” for arranging her ex-husband Maurizio exchange. She claims she is destitute, His narrative of how he nabbed the Siem, who would perform a third Gucci’s murder in 1995, has sat down for living in her mother’s villa spring campaign, time at Carnegie Hall, admitted that another interview with Italy’s daily Il near the Milan courthouse which was shot by even though he is playing in one of the Giornale on Monday, peppering the story and that’s why Paola Franchi, Inez Van Lamsweerde smaller halls, he does still experience with double-take-inducing quotes. “At Maurizio Gucci’s partner at and Vinoodh Matadin preperformance jitters. that time in my life, I was convinced that the time of his death, and in Chelsea, is pretty “To be nervous is to be confronting a creature such as him did not deserve Giuseppe Onorato, the former straightforward. something that’s not natural to you. living. Why? I will never tell,” said janitor of the building “I’ve got a close You’re in exactly the right place when Reggiani of the late Gucci, whom she where the entrepreneur mutual friend with you’re facing that aspect of you,” also described as “peterpanning.” lived and who was wounded [Hugo Boss creative offered Siem. “Nothing bad, really, can That said, as she claimed during the during the shoot, are still director] Jason Wu, who happen. If you have the courage and the noodh trial, Reggiani underscored that she did waiting for compensatory I suggested me,” Siem generosity to go on stage, then you’ve not want her husband dead and that she damages. said. “That’s about it.” already won. You’re already doing had “loved him as a madwoman.” In the — LUISA ZARGANI With that terse something that is beautiful. To me, this article, she claims that Gucci used to ask response, he glossed is a good thing because it forces you to oss/Inez & V her advice “on everything,” and that she HUGO’S NEW BOSS: It’s a b over his prior get to a higher level and to transcend the

knows the brand’s archives “by heart.” balmy day in late October ugo modeling experience, person you are every day. I like the idea Reggiani believes that if those archives and Charlie Siem is dressed h of transforming on the stage to become a were in her possession, she “would like your average 28-year- Charlie Siem in Hugo better person.” Boss’ spring ad campaign. surely know what to do with them” at a old guy who is here to photo by — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

The film was directed byPablo Ganguli & Mauritz AB launch its new brand & Other and Tomas Auksas, and Meena Khera served Stories, where she was head of design. She as the executive producer. joined Marimekko in August. Fashion scoops — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG At the Finnish design house, she has two priorities. First, to make the product ANNA’S TURN: Anna Teurnell, the new creative “look super, especially in ready-to-wear,” DIDDY TIME AGAIN: Sean “Diddy” Combs is Burani, became embroiled in financial director of Marimekko, made a quick trip and second, “to make the shopping back in the fragrance game with plans and legal troubles. to New York last week from Helsinki to experience even more inspiring.” to launch a men’s scent at Macy’s in late In Feb. 2012, Walter and Giovanni meet with the North American team and Marimekko, which has more than 140 April or early May 2015. Burani were sentenced to six years showed the first glimpses of her work for stores globally, has seven in the U.S. One It will be Combs’ first fragrance in jail for fraudulently declaring the the Finnish brand. While her complete of her favorite parts of the job so far is since Jacavi Worldwide/Parlux bankruptcy of MBFG and its parent input won’t be ready until spring 2016, being able to dig into the Marimekko obtained his fragrance license — which company, Burani Designer Holding. Teurnell highlighted a few pieces that archives “of fantastic prints and colors.” was previously held by Estée Lauder The father and son, together with other she edited for fall 2015, several with The mix is 50 percent apparel and 50 Cos. Inc. — and the first men’s scent former MBFG executives, are now said updated silhouettes and classics from the percent home. The plan is to showcase since the 2009 launch of I Am King, to be facing trial under the Milan court vast print archive. each of them more distinctly in the which won a FiFi award that year. system trial for additional charges of “We want to gallop, but we have to calm stores. “It’s a brand that should add joy Combs also won a Fragrance of the manipulating the stock market through down a little bit,” said the Swedish-born to everyday life,” she said. Year in the Men’s Luxe category in 2006 misinformation and illegal actions from designer, who most recently helped Hennes — LISA LOCKWOOD for Unforgivable. According to sources, August 2007 to November 2009. the fragrance generated $100 million in — CYNTHIA MARTENS global sales during its first year. — WWD STAFF THE TRANSFORMERS: Francisco Costa, Liberty Ross, Andreja Pejic, Dianna BURANI DEAL: Designer Mariella Burani Agron, Lil Buck, JR and Yves Behar has signed a three-year licensing are some of the talent featured agreement for the manufacture of a in “Transformation,” a short film new women’s ready-to-wear that was made through a line, said a spokesman For more collaboration between W For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. for the manufacturer, scoops, see New York and the cultural Brescia, Italy–based brand Liberatum. The Confezioni Pango SpA, WWD.com. flick’s theme is meant to which produces its own celebrate the hotel’s $2.2 Spaces lines in addition to private million renovations and label collections, such as the plus-size evolution of its Living Room, the Gaia Life. reimagined lobby that is meant to be COMMERCIAL Called Mariella Arduini, Burani’s a cross-cultural meeting place. REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, new line uses her maiden name rather The cameos, which include PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. than her married name. ones by Dita Von Teese and Gia Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 The licensing deal covers six Coppola, touch upon an array of collections, and the first lineup will be life-defining moments. Costa spoke for the fall 2015 season, with about of the impact of losing his mother 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes 100 pieces. and Ross described holding her Menswear Showrooms D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Burani’s decision to launch first child. Agron recalled moving the line under a different name is out of the house for the first time Senior. Sales Executives looking for a understandable. The Mariella Burani and “realizing that more than ever, Showrooms & Lofts company that wants growth in Major Fashion Group (MBFG) she and you’re accountable for your actions.” BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Stores Only. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Pls. Call Paul Wilson@ Turner Group: husband, Walter Burani, founded in Behar, an industrial designer, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 856 304 1493 1960 under the name Selene — which offered a different view. “I think in its heyday was listed on the Milan permanence is an illusion. Every Stock Exchange and produced and time I’ve thought that things are how distributed collections for brands such they are and that I like how they are, as Giambattista Valli, La Perla and I’m always reminded that change, Vivienne Westwood — is now defunct, that transformation, is actually what after the couple and their son, Giovanni is happening.” he said. 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2014 WWD.COM Retailers Beef Up Omnichannel Business {Continued from page one} purchase the item in a store,” use StepsAway to post in-store Kendall, partner and retail Terry J. Lundgren, chairman and events or tutorials to drive traffi c. strategist with Kurt Salmon. chief executive offi cer of Macy’s The venture has raised $4 This means that companies’ ef- Inc., told WWD in September. million in private investments forts center on satiating demand Through a partnership with to date and will soon roll out in for product, such as buying on- Shopkick and its ShopBeacon additional locations. line and picking up in-store or technology, consumers shopping This holiday season’s greater turning stores into warehouses in Macy’s that are Shopkick app push on omnichannel comes by shipping from stores. users will get more personalized when Black Friday and Cyber The key this holiday season will deals and discounts. Promotions Monday will garner more global be to extend the in-store experi- offered on the app are only re- attention than ever before — ence in a way that’s engaging to a deemable while in-store. from London, where retailers customer, as well as one that gets Similarly, StepsAway ceo are joining the price-promotion them to come in and spend more Allan Haims wants to use mobile fray, to China, where Alibaba money. Given the plethora of price to infl uence in-store purchasing will roll out aggressive market- promotions out there, retailers’ in the mall environment with his ing initiatives next week. omnichannel efforts will stand out three-month-old app that’s cur- Just as Alibaba founder this season only if they serve a pur- rently available in six shopping and chairman Jack Ma said he pose — whether it provides promo- centers across the U.S., includ- wants Chinese online holiday tions targeted at a particular shop- ing Twelve Oaks Mall in Novi, Single’s Day to become a global per or removes friction points from Rebecca Minkoff enters her phone number in the Connected Fitting Room Michigan and Cherry Creek event — the one-day holiday saw the shopping experience, like at at her new Manhattan fl agship, linking her session to her account to look at more than $9 billion in Nordstrom or Rebecca Minkoff ’s what she tried on at a later date. e-commerce sales — new Manhattan fl agship in which the same holds true for a shopper has the ability to fl ag implemented similar technol- Jose and Seattle, will pilot the Black Friday and Cyber down a sales associate’’ and swap ogy, including the Connected Connected Fitting Room, which, Monday extending their sizes without leaving the confi nes Fitting Room in the Rebecca instead of Kinect sensors and reach to China. of a dressing room. Even Twitter Minkoff fl agship, which opened RFID chips, will be equipped For the first time, said on Tuesday that it would start earlier this month. with a laser bar-code scanner to Alibaba’s recently to test its second commerce prod- “You have to put something scan items manually. Yankovich launched AliPay ePass uct, Twitter Offers, where adver- in front of someone that actu- said the main feature is that is pushing Black Friday tisers could offer card-linked pro- ally has a value proposition,” shoppers can initiate getting in China for its retail- motions that could be redeemed Steve Yankovich, eBay vice help from an associate, ensuring ers in a big way, bringing in-store. According to the microb- president, innovation and new that one’s time in the dressing Chinese shoppers to U.S. logging platform, advertisers can ventures, said of Minkoff ’s fl ag- room is maximized. And when a Black Friday — and work- measure return on investment ship, located on Greene Street shopper is done trying on, they ing with select merchants every time a redemption occurs, in Manhattan’s SoHo neighbor- can request a sales associate through partnerships whether on or offl ine. hood. “It’s the Uber-fi cation of to assist with checkout (there’s with Borderfree and Kendall won’t go so far as to the retail shopping experience.” also an associate app that helps Shoprunner to help drive say that the term omnichannel Connected Fitting Rooms establish a dialogue between re- traffic and sales from tailer and consumer). Target’s updated app has interactive store China to the Web sites of Target’s app now has indoor maps, with a goal to make navigating easier. Saks Fifth Avenue, Ann mapping that shows where items Taylor, Gilt, American My prediction is that everyone will are located via pin so shoppers Shopping Center in Denver. Apparel, Aéropostale, Macy’s and can get what they want in-store StepsAway, which only works Bloomingdale’s. want this; every store will need this as quickly as possible in all of in malls that opt in, lets consum- Black Friday isn’t entirely its U.S. stores, and come Black ers know about promotions via unknown in China. Chinese Friday it will offer more robust, their mobile device — but here’s consumers who have been shop- kind of experience to compete. interactive maps that show where the catch: They can only be re- ping overseas are aware of it, sales and dealbusters are. On the deemed in-store. but ePass really wants to ramp — STEVE YANKOVICH, EBAY, retailer side, the largest to em- When a shopper enters a up the attention that American ON CONNECTED FITTING ROOMS brace omnichannel initiatives mall, they’re redirected to e-commerce sites are given dur- thus far is Macy’s, which revealed log on to the mall’s Wi-Fi and ing this period. It will use sev- a slew of digital-facing initiatives prompted to download the eral marketing channels to raise is overused — but “it’s certainly are equipped with Kinect sen- in September. Buy online, pick StepsAway app. The user can awareness that the American used a lot.” sors that not only track every up in-store was rolled out to all then select what type of pro- shopping season has begun. “Its uses reflect the impor- item brought inside (via RFID Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s doors motions they want to see; it’s a Among the Alibaba channels tance to retailers of learning how chip), but allow you to request a and both retailers have begun to pull, not a push model, accord- that will promote the American to operate in a new way. What different color or size (brought use Apple’s mobile point-of-sale ing to Haims. So if someone sees blockbuster shopping days are they haven’t learned yet is what over by a sales associate ASAP) system, Apple Pay. Sephora has a deal for a Guess dress on the eTao, a shopping comparison the new model is, and for lack of and even text yourself the items started to use Apple Pay as well, app, for instance, they have to site; G.TaoBao, the global TaoBao a better word, they refer to this you tried on so that you can pur- and mobile POS system Square go to the Guess store and pres- channel, and Alimama, Alibaba’s as ‘omnichannel,’” Kendall said. chase at a later date. All actions said it will start to use Apple’s ent this to a sales associate to digital advertising company. EBay is betting that the in- are done through the mirror. payment option next year. These merchants will also use store technology it will roll out “Now, if you’re in a fitting Bryan Yeager, an analyst at digital red envelopes, a popular in Nordstrom stores next week room and something doesn’t work eMarketer, said this season will be way to attract Chinese consum- will completely transform the — unless you have’’ a friend with about building brand awareness ers that’s a play on the red enve- way people shop. EBay already you, it won’t be as effi cient. You’re for payment options like Apple lopes that are given out during likely to put your clothes back on Pay. Getting consumers to make 54% the Chinese New Year. Red pock- and go out, and it’s unlikely you’ll the switch from using traditional AMOUNT PLANNING TO SHOP ets will be placed all over these come back,” Yankovich said. credit cards to a mobile wallet channels with specifi c deals and “Now the dressing room becomes won’t happen overnight, and dif- IN-STORE AND ONLINE, AS CITED shoppers can grab them, put them the place you experience all the fi culties also loom for retailers, BY RETALE. in their account and use them at product that you want to spend such as incorporating branded check-out. Alipay will tap into di- time on, and the success rate will store credit cards and loyalty pro- rect marketing to reach account go through the roof. My prediction grams. He called this a trial year access the special price. holders and work with Alimama is that everyone will want this; for Apple Pay — projecting that “They are more likely to make to create social media buzz. every store will need this kind of although 2015 will be a much big- a purchase in brick-and-mortar “The big difference [this experience to compete.” ger year for mobile payments, this because they are there,” Haims year] is that in the past, people It will cause consumer ex- will be integral in getting initial said. He also thinks that the were aware of Black Friday or pectations to skyrocket — and adoption from merchants and app’s “pull” model takes away Cyber Monday almost by word Yankovich predicts that it will consumers. Similar mobile pay- retailers’ worry that they’ll inun- of mouth, but this time, it’s being become commonplace to be able ment options like Google’s mobile date consumers with e-mail. “It’s focused on by the main player in to request items via touchscreen wallet and Softcard, the joint ven- the customers’ choice to opt in the Chinese e-commerce mar- inside of a dressing room. ture between AT&T, T-Mobile and every single time they walk into ket,” said Michael DeSimone, Another Rebecca Minkoff store Verizon, may have failed to gain the mall. The stores have a quali- ceo of Borderfree, a platform employing the same technology traction with shoppers in a mean- fi ed customer because they are in that has fi ve retail customers live will open in San Francisco later ingful way, but Apple’s brand rec- the mall and they [the shoppers] on the Alipay ePass solution. this year and in Los Angeles in ognition could likely change this. are pulling offers specific for He noted that the Middle the fi rst quarter of next year. If anyone can make mobile pay- something they are looking at.” East — including Saudi Arabia, Kendall acknowledged that ments happen, it’s Apple. The single platform that cre- Kuwait and Dubai — has seen Minkoff is at the “forefront of “We can’t distinguish any ates and delivers promotions is huge growth when it comes to where the retail experience is more what is a store sale or a mo- all cloud-based, so retailers who purchasing from American e- going,” but the industry is still at bile sale. It’s blurred. We know wish to post on the app don’t commerce sites. “It shows that the early stages of understanding customers are online shopping need any infrastructure to be ac- the world is aware that we’re what the future of the in-store ex- and looking at specifi c items and tive on the app. And for stores heading into a massive selling Macy’s is the largest retailer to use perience needs to look like. we know that same customer like Sephora that don’t offer pro- season — even if it’s a market omnichannel initiatives. Two Nordstrom doors, in San used his or her Macy’s card to motions, there is opportunity to that doesn’t celebrate Christmas.”