LEATHER TERMINOLOGY

A ANILINE DYEING:​ The dyeing process by which soluble dyes penetrate the cell layers throughout the hide. The dye colours the leather without producing the uniform surface of a topcoat paint or insoluble pigmented sealant. The resulting product retains the hide's natural surface. Any visible variations on the surface of the undyed leather such as visible pores, scars, or other blemishes will remain visible. For this reason, only high-quality leather is suitable for aniline finishing and pure aniline leathers represent approximately 5% of all leathers produced worldwide.

ANTIQUE DISTRESSED GRAIN:​ ​Antique distressed leather, or leather grain, is any type of leather, which has been treated to age the appearance of the material to give it an antique or vintage look.

ALTERED LEATHER: ​Leather that has had the original surface of the skin or hide removed, (usually due to imperfections in the original grain surface), and a new grain embossed into the leather. This is also called CORRECTED GRAIN.​ Most top-grain leathers have altered or corrected grain. ​

AMERICAN BISON:​ American Bison Leather is stronger than traditional steer hide and is also supple and durable. They showcase marks of a range animal, the natural grain of bison hides is not corrected with artificial embossing or plating.

B BARK TANNING:​ Vegetable-tanning mainly by means of tannins from the bark of trees

BELLY:​ The part of the hide covering the underside and the upper part of the legs of the animal.

BELTING LEATHER:​ Generally a heavyweight, full-grain leather, which was originally manufactured to create pulley belts during the industrial revolution. The unique tanning process makes belting leather one of the strongest and stiffest leathers around.

BLUE SPLIT ​- Blue split comes from the hide that has been split into several layers and treated with chromium during the tanning process, which gives it a bluish colour.

BOARDY LEATHER: ​ Term used to describe leather, which is stiff or not pliable.

BONDED LEATHER:​ Bonded leather, otherwise known as RECONSTITUTED LEATHER,​ is made ​ from leather fibres/scraps that have been glued together to create a leather sheet. Bonded leather is a non-elastic material; therefore, it has a tendency to crack with use, strips of polyurethane and leather will then start to peel away from the backing.

BREATHABILITY: ​An important characteristic of full-grain leather. Due to its intact grain and pore structure, full-grain leather breathes. This means that the leather adjusts to temperature and wicks away moisture and body heat, making it very comfortable to sit on.

BRIDLE: ​Firm, rich-coloured leather with enough oils to withstand the weather. Great feeling leather, which can be oiled for darker hues. Vegetable-tanned. Ideal for tack items and fine pet products.

“ENGLISH” BRIDLE: Strong,​ waxy, weather-resistant “English” bridle leather, which is the closest to bridle leather made in England.

BRUSHED GRAIN / BRUSHED LEATHER: Two​ different ways to describe a leather/grain that has been gently brushed to create a soft nap or fuzzy texture when making suede or nubuck leather

BUTT:​ The part of the hide after the bellies and shoulders have been removed. ​

BUTT SPLIT:​ The under layers split from the butt of a cattle hide.

BUFFING:​ The process of removing/sanding the top grain layer via an abrasive or bladed cylinder often carried out by a machine in order to smooth the high spots of imperfections.

BYCAST LEATHER: ​“Bycast” or “Bi-cast” leather is made with split leather backing and a surface layer of polyurethane (PU), which is then embossed.

C CALF HIDE: ​The skin of a young or immature bovine animal not exceeding a certain weight. Calfskin leather has a fine grain and smooth surface; the leather is also generally more lightweight and thinner than cow's hide and is used mostly for clothing and accessories. Hides are much smaller than cowhides, about 4-6 square ft.

CATTLE HIDE: ​The outer covering of a fully grown bovine animal.

CHAMOIS LEATHER:​ Chamois leather is a type of porous leather, traditionally the skin of the chamois, a type of European mountain goat, but today made almost exclusively from the flesh split of a sheepskin. Chamois leather is usually tanned with oils and is very soft and flexible.

CHROME TANNED:​ Leather tanned either solely with chromium salts or with chromium salts together with quite small amounts of some other tanning agent used merely to assist the chrome-tanning process, and not in sufficient amount to alter the essential chrome-tanned character of the leather.

CHROME OIL TANNED: Tanned​ with chromium compounds and treated with oil that helps preserve the leather

COMBINATION TANNED:​ Leather tanned with two or more tanning agents, for example, chromium and vegetable. Also known as RE-TANNED. ​

CORRECTED GRAIN:​ Corrected grain refers to the hide having its top grain layer sanded down to minimise flaws. It is then pigmented and embossed with an artificial grain and sprayed with a sealer topcoat.

COWHIDE:​ Leather made from un-split cowhide or its grain split. In some countries (not Spain) the term is also loosely applied to similar leather from the hide of any bovine animal. Cows provide the largest hides of about 30-45 square ft.

CORDOVAN: Leather​ made from the tight, firm shell portion of horse butts. It has very fine pores, it’s durable, and has a characteristic finish.

CROCKING:​ Transferring of colour or finish from leather to other materials by rubbing or abrasion.

CROCKPROOF:​ Leather, suede or fabric that has been treated so that colour or dye doesn’t rub off. Regarding suede, this term describes treatment to prevent shredding or the rubbing off of fibres.

CRUST:​ Leather that has been tanned, dyed and dried, but not finished.

CURRIED LEATHER:​ Leather, usually vegetable-tanned, which has been subjected to the currying process, i.e. a series of dressing and finishing processes applied to leather after tanning in course of which appropriate amounts of oils and greases are incorporated in the leather to give it increased tensile strength, flexibility and water-resisting properties.

D DEGRAINED LEATHER:​ Leather that has had its grain removed after tanning (via sanding, splitting, abrasion, etc.) is known as ‘degrained leather’.

DRUM DYEING:​ Hides are placed into a large drum with dyes and then tumbled. This allows for full dye penetration into the leather fibres.

DEERSKIN ​– Leather tanned from deerskin with the grain side left intact. When the grain is removed, it is then known as buckskin. Very supple, beautiful quality leather. Chrome tanned whole hides have little waste. Soft but tough and water-resistant, used for garments, and accessories. Usually about 2-3oz with hides 8-10 square feet.

DISTRESSED LEATHER: ​It’s tanned specifically to exhibit a distressed look reminiscent of leather that has aged beautifully with time and use.

E EMBOSSED LEATHER:​ Leather embossed or printed with a raised pattern either imitating or resembling the grain pattern of some animal, or being quite unrelated to a natural grain pattern.

ENHANCED GRAIN: ​Leather that is lightly buffed to improve the surface and embossed to simulate an attractive grain or to add decorative texture.

EXOTIC LEATHER ​– Refers to a number of unusual animal/reptile skins that are tanned primarily for the small leather good/accessory/shoe business (i.e. lizard, snake, crocodile skins, etc.)

F FAT TANNED:​ Hide or skin, which has been converted into leather by treatments, involving the incorporation of soft animal fats.

FAT WRINKLE: ​Marks or wrinkles that form in the grain due to fat deposits in the animal’s skin; they are sought after because they are not visible in imitation or corrected grain leather. FINISH: ​Any further steps taken after the dying treatment such as rolling, pigmented spraying, lacquering, antiquing, tipping, waxing, buffing, embossing, glazing, waterproofing or flameproofing in order to provide more abrasion and stain resistance and/or a more even surface colouration.

FLESH SIDE:​ The inner side of a hide or skin.

FULL GRAIN:​ The term used for the outside original skin or hide which has had the hair removed, but otherwise has not been corrected or altered. Full-grain leather possesses the genuine original grain of the animal.

FULL HAND: It​ defines a leather which is full-bodied and robust. Also called round hand.

G GARMENT WEIGHT LEATHER: ​ is thin and supple enough to be sewn into clothing. It is usually is between 1oz to 3oz, and often comes from lamb, goat, pig, deerskin, or cowhide splits. It is usually sewn with a sewing machine, not worked by hand.

GRAIN: ​The pattern, characterized by the pores and peculiar to the animal concerned, visible on the outer surface of a hide or skin after the hair has been removed.

GLAZED FINISH:​ The leather surface is polished to a high lustre using glass on steel rollers under lots of pressure – similar to an aniline finish.

GLOVE LEATHER:​ Soft leather, usually lambskin, which is used to make leather gloves.

GRAIN SUEDED: Also​ known as “snuffing”, this is the process of abrading the grain side of the hide to achieve a buffed or suede texture.

GRAIN SPLIT:​ The outer (wool or hair) layer of a hide or skin that has been split into two or more layers.

GRAINED LEATHER:​ Any leather on which the original natural grain has been changed or altered by any method, process or manipulation; also top grain.

GOATSKIN:​ A soft resilient leather slightly thicker than lamb leather, usually used for garments and small accessories. Goatskin had a natural pebbled grain which is sometimes flattened during the tanning process. Hides are about 5-6 square ft

GUM TRAGACANTH:​ Natural gum-based edge slicking and burnishing compound for use on natural or coloured veg-tanned leather. Produces a professional-looking, smooth, shiny, burnished edge.

H HAND: Term​ that describes leather softness and feel.

HAND ANTIQUED: ​Also referred to as "hand-rubbing". The process where skilled craftsmen hand rub a contrasting colour onto the surface of the leather to accentuate the natural grain or embossing. HIDE: ​(1) The outer covering of a mature or fully grown large mammal, e.g. cattle, horse, camel and elephant 2) Leather made from (1) which has not been split, or from the grain split of such hide; when used in this way the name of the animal may be added.

HAIR-ON HIDES: ​Leather tanned without removing the hair from the skins or hide.

HORSE LEATHER: ​Very durable and abrasion-resistant. Chrome tanned for a soft feel and made mostly for the gloving industry. Ideal for gloves, mitts, and garment use. Horse is sometimes vegetable tanned for a durable belt weight leather. Ideal for razor strops, gun holsters, etc

I IMITATION LEATHER:​ Also known as “Fake”, “Faux”, "Vegan" or “Synthetic” leather, imitation leather is a material that may look or feel like leather.

K KANGAROO LEATHER:​ These skins are extra strong and durable with a soft, supple feel.

KIDSKIN:​ leather made from the skin of a young goat.

L LEATHER: ​A general term for hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible. The hair or wool may or may not have been removed. Leather is also made from hide or skin which has been split into layers or segments before or after tanning.

LEATHERETTE: Leatherette​ is another term used to describe man-made or imitation leather.

LEATHERY: ​A word used to describe the feeling of leather or something that feels like leather.

LIMING: ​The process of removing hair from a rawhide through the use of chemicals.

M MILING:​ Process in which tanned hides are tumbled in rotating drums using a combination of heat and a misting of water to soften the hand or enhance the grain.

MINERAL TANNED:​ When mineral salts such as aluminium, chromium or zirconium are used in the tanning process of hides.

METALLIC LEATHER: ​Leather given a metallic lustre by the application of metallic foils or powders.

MULLED: ​Treated to make softer.

N NAKED LEATHER:​ Leather that has not been given treatment or finish, which may change the natural state and appearance of the leather, other than dye.

NAP:​ A process in which the natural grain layer of the leather is removed and the outer surface of the leather is then given a napped finish. See also "suede."

NAPPA:​ Made from unsplit sheepskin, lambskin or kidskin, Nappa leather is soft full-grain clothing or gloving leather. It’s most often tanned with aluminium and chromium salts and dyed throughout.

NATURAL GRAIN: ​Leather whose grain has not been altered in any way, so the natural appearance of the grain is apparent.

NUBUCK: ​Cattle hide leather, buffed on the top grain with oil to produce a subtle "nap" for a matte, suede look.

O OAK TANNING: O​ riginally the tannage of leather was almost entirely with oak bark, later the term ​ applied to tannage with a blend containing oak tannin. Now, it is loosely applied to any tannage of heavy leather with vegetable extracts.

P PATINA: ​A surface luster that develops on pure anilines and nubucks; grows more beautiful with the passing of time.

PATENT LEATHER: ​Leather that has been given a really glossy finish to give it a shiny, lustrous surface

PIG: ​a very thin soft leather with a distinctive speckled texture called a "hair cell" appearance. Pigskin us usually used for garments or lining. A lot of suede is also pigskin. Hides are 14-15 square ft.

PIGMENTED LEATHER: ​Finished Leather to whose surface a finish containing fine pigment particles in suspension has been applied. Pigmented leather is finished with a solid pigment to maintain consistency in colour and texture. Adding pigment can be used to add protection to the leather and also to hide imperfections. Pigmented leather is the most durable type. Pigmented leather can be full-grain, half grain and corrected grain.

PEARLIZED LEATHER:​ Leather which has a sheen or pearl-like lustre, also known as “pearlescent leather”

PERFORATED LEATHER: This​ is the process of die-cutting small holes to create a pattern; the holes and patterns can vary in size and density.

PLATING/ PLATED LEATHER: The​ process of using a hot metal plate to press leather under high pressure, this is another way imperfections can be covered. Most furniture leather is usually sanded, pigmented and plated to cover imperfections.

PRINTED LEATHER: ​Leather bearing a surface pattern produced usually by embossing, but sometimes by other methods, e.g. by silkscreen printing.

PROTECTED LEATHER:​ Leather in which certain special chemicals have been incorporated to render it less liable to deteriorate through exposure to polluted atmospheres. The treatment is often applied to vegetable tanned upholstery and bookbinding leathers.

PULL-UP LEATHER: ​The tannery applies a base dye before layering additional dyes and oils to achieve a uniform, darker look. As this leather is handled and the final product undergoes regular use, the character of the base dye is revealed and a well-worn finish emerges becoming lighter in certain areas. This is considered a mark of good quality.

PURE ANILINE LEATHER:​ Also known as “full aniline”, “naked aniline” or “naked leather”, pure aniline leather is aniline dyed and receives no additional colouring or treatment,showing natural markings and characteristics.

R RAWHIDE: ​A hide which has only been treated to preserve it prior to tanning.

RE-TANNED LEATHER: ​Leather which has been subjected to an additional tannage with similar or other tanning materials.

RECONSTITUTED LEATHER: ​ Also known as “BONDED LEATHER”,​ reconstituted leather is made ​ from scrap leather or leather fibres that are glued together with polyurethane.

ROUND HAND: Another​ way to describe “full hand” leather, round hand leather is leather that is full-bodied and robust.

S SADDLE LEATHER: ​Leather used to make saddles and harnesses made from vegetable-tanned cattle hide, usually a natural tan colour and fairly flexible.

SAUVAGE LEATHER:​ A top-grain aniline leather that is sequentially coloured with two dyes and tumbled. It has a two-tone marbled appearance.

SAMMIERING:​ In tanning, the process of pressing the water out of hides.

SEMI-ANILINE:​ finished leather which has been aniline dyed or stained, incorporating a small quantity of pigment, not so much as to conceal. Is more durable than aniline whilst still retaining a natural appearance. The increased durability is provided by the application of a light surface coating which contains a small amount of pigment. This ensures consistent colour and imparts some stain resistance. ​

SHEARLING:​ Shearling is a hide from a recently sheared sheep or lamb, which is tanned with the wool intact.

SHEEP: ​Sheep are almost always chrome tanned. A little thicker than lamb sometimes with a light pebbled grain, and similar softness. Mostly used for garment leather. Hides are usually 7-10 square feet and 2-3oz thick.

SHOULDER LEATHER: ​Leather taken from the shoulder area of the cow, this is a softer area of the hide and is often used in the manufacture of bags.

SHRUNKEN GRAIN: ​Leather specially tanned so as to shrink the grain layer and having a grain surface of uneven folds and valleys.

SIDE: ​Half of a whole hide obtained by dividing it along the line of the backbone to accommodate tanning equipment more efficiently.

SNUFFED LEATHER: Usually​ done through the process of abrasion, if the leather is snuffed it means that it has had its top surface removed.

SPLIT: ​The under portion of a hide or skin that has been split into two or more thickness. The grain split, used to make full grain and top grain leather, comes from the outer split or the outer layer of the hide. The inner split is trimmed and finished as suede or genuine leather. Inner splits may also be finished and embossed to simulate a full top grain. Finished splits should only be used in low-stress applications because they are weaker than grain leather.

SQUARE FOOT:​ The unit of measure of a skin by which all leathers are purchased from tanners by manufacturers.

SUEDE: ​Velvet-like nap finish produced on leather with abrasive action.

SUEDE SPLIT: ​Leather made from the flesh split of hide or skin and finished with a velvet-like nap.

SUEDING:​ The process of raising the fibres on the hide to create a velvety texture, this is also called the napping process.

SPREAD: ​The size of a hide is known as the spread and is measured by a machine in square feet.

STEERHIDE:​ Leather from a castrated bull whose hide shows a tight grain structure, making it the ideal choice for leather upholstery.

T TABLE DYEING: Dyeing​ leather by laying out the material on a table and applying the dye with a brush – also known as “brush colouring”.

TALLOW: ​A hard fatty substance made from rendered animal fat, used in making candles, soap, and leather tanning.

TANNERY RUN:​ A standard method of buying leather that consists of 25% A grade, 50% B grade and 25% C grade.

TANNIN:​ A general term for any products and solvents used in the tanning process.

TANNING:​ The processing of perishable raw hides and skins by the use of tanning materials into the permanent and imputrescible form of leather.

TOP COAT:​ A clear, protective coating applied to the surface of the leather, which may give the leather a lustre or sheen.

TOP FINISHED: ​A leather which has been given a final coating of a finish to confer special properties such as gloss, level colour, fastness to wet rubbing, waterproofness and so forth.

TOP GRAIN: ​The term intended to define genuine grain leather, as opposed to split leather which has been pigmented and embossed with a new grain. In reality, top-grain leather usually has had the original grain removed and an imitation grain embossed into the surface.

U UNFINISHED LEATHER: Often​ used in reference to naked or aniline dyed leathers, which have been given no additional treatment or application to finish or colour the leather in a way that would alter the natural characteristics or appearance.

UNPROTECTED LEATHER: ​This leather does not have a protective coating. Unprotected leather features more natural characteristics of the leather, it is typically softer than treated or protected leather. They are more susceptible to fading, staining or soiling.

UPHOLSTERY LEATHER: ​ A broad term for leather that is processed for use in furniture, vehicles or aeroplanes

V VEGETABLE TANNING: ​Tanning process using exclusively vegetable tanning agents or with small amounts of other agents used merely to assist the tanning process of to improve or modify the leather, and not in sufficient amounts to alter notably the essential vegetable character of the leather.

W WATER RESISTANT LEATHER (repellent​ leather): Leather resistant to the penetration of water, usually chrome tanned, or combination tanned, originally heavily greased, but other water-resisting (repelling) agents may be used.

WAXY LEATHER: ​Upper Leather finished on the flesh side and dyed; vegetable tanned with a high content of hard grease, though not necessarily wax.

WET BLUE LEATHER: ​Leather which after chrome tanning has not been further processed and is sold in the wet condition.

WEIGHT: The​ weight of leather is measured in ounces per square foot.

Y YIELD:​ The amount of usable leather produced from a hide.