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Leather Terminology

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Leather Terminology LEATHER TERMINOLOGY A ANILINE DYEING:​ The dyeing process by which soluble dyes penetrate the cell layers throughout the hide. The dye colours the leather without producing the uniform surface of a topcoat paint or insoluble pigmented sealant. The resulting product retains the hide's natural surface. Any visible variations on the surface of the undyed leather such as visible pores, scars, or other blemishes will remain visible. For this reason, only high-quality leather is suitable for aniline finishing and pure aniline leathers represent approximately 5% of all leathers produced worldwide. ANTIQUE DISTRESSED GRAIN:​ ​Antique distressed leather, or leather grain, is any type of leather, which has been treated to age the appearance of the material to give it an antique or vintage look. ALTERED LEATHER: ​Leather that has had the original surface of the skin or hide removed, (usually due to imperfections in the original grain surface), and a new grain embossed into the leather. This is also called CORRECTED GRAIN.​ Most top-grain leathers have altered or corrected grain. ​ AMERICAN BISON:​ American Bison Leather is stronger than traditional steer hide and is also supple and durable. They showcase marks of a range animal, the natural grain of bison hides is not corrected with artificial embossing or plating. B BARK TANNING:​ Vegetable-tanning mainly by means of tannins from the bark of trees BELLY:​ The part of the hide covering the underside and the upper part of the legs of the animal. BELTING LEATHER:​ Generally a heavyweight, full-grain leather, which was originally manufactured to create pulley belts during the industrial revolution. The unique tanning process makes belting leather one of the strongest and stiffest leathers around. BLUE SPLIT ​- Blue split comes from the hide that has been split into several layers and treated with chromium during the tanning process, which gives it a bluish colour. BOARDY LEATHER: ​ Term used to describe leather, which is stiff or not pliable. BONDED LEATHER:​ Bonded leather, otherwise known as RECONSTITUTED LEATHER,​ is made ​ from leather fibres/scraps that have been glued together to create a leather sheet. Bonded leather is a non-elastic material; therefore, it has a tendency to crack with use, strips of polyurethane and leather will then start to peel away from the backing. BREATHABILITY: ​An important characteristic of full-grain leather. Due to its intact grain and pore structure, full-grain leather breathes. This means that the leather adjusts to temperature and wicks away moisture and body heat, making it very comfortable to sit on. BRIDLE: ​Firm, rich-coloured leather with enough oils to withstand the weather. Great feeling leather, which can be oiled for darker hues. Vegetable-tanned. Ideal for tack items and fine pet products. “ENGLISH” BRIDLE: Strong,​ waxy, weather-resistant “English” bridle leather, which is the closest to bridle leather made in England. BRUSHED GRAIN / BRUSHED LEATHER: Two​ different ways to describe a leather/grain that has been gently brushed to create a soft nap or fuzzy texture when making suede or nubuck leather BUTT:​ The part of the hide after the bellies and shoulders have been removed. ​ BUTT SPLIT:​ The under layers split from the butt of a cattle hide. BUFFING:​ The process of removing/sanding the top grain layer via an abrasive or bladed cylinder often carried out by a machine in order to smooth the high spots of imperfections. BYCAST LEATHER: ​“Bycast” or “Bi-cast” leather is made with split leather backing and a surface layer of polyurethane (PU), which is then embossed. C CALF HIDE: ​The skin of a young or immature bovine animal not exceeding a certain weight. Calfskin leather has a fine grain and smooth surface; the leather is also generally more lightweight and thinner than cow's hide and is used mostly for clothing and accessories. Hides are much smaller than cowhides, about 4-6 square ft. CATTLE HIDE: ​The outer covering of a fully grown bovine animal. CHAMOIS LEATHER:​ Chamois leather is a type of porous leather, traditionally the skin of the chamois, a type of European mountain goat, but today made almost exclusively from the flesh split of a sheepskin. Chamois leather is usually tanned with oils and is very soft and flexible. CHROME TANNED:​ Leather tanned either solely with chromium salts or with chromium salts together with quite small amounts of some other tanning agent used merely to assist the chrome-tanning process, and not in sufficient amount to alter the essential chrome-tanned character of the leather. CHROME OIL TANNED: Tanned​ with chromium compounds and treated with oil that helps preserve the leather COMBINATION TANNED:​ Leather tanned with two or more tanning agents, for example, chromium and vegetable. Also known as RE-TANNED. ​ CORRECTED GRAIN:​ Corrected grain refers to the hide having its top grain layer sanded down to minimise flaws. It is then pigmented and embossed with an artificial grain and sprayed with a sealer topcoat. COWHIDE:​ Leather made from un-split cowhide or its grain split. In some countries (not Spain) the term is also loosely applied to similar leather from the hide of any bovine animal. Cows provide the largest hides of about 30-45 square ft. CORDOVAN: Leather​ made from the tight, firm shell portion of horse butts. It has very fine pores, it’s durable, and has a characteristic finish. CROCKING:​ Transferring of colour or finish from leather to other materials by rubbing or abrasion. CROCKPROOF:​ Leather, suede or fabric that has been treated so that colour or dye doesn’t rub off. Regarding suede, this term describes treatment to prevent shredding or the rubbing off of fibres. CRUST:​ Leather that has been tanned, dyed and dried, but not finished. CURRIED LEATHER:​ Leather, usually vegetable-tanned, which has been subjected to the currying process, i.e. a series of dressing and finishing processes applied to leather after tanning in course of which appropriate amounts of oils and greases are incorporated in the leather to give it increased tensile strength, flexibility and water-resisting properties. D DEGRAINED LEATHER:​ Leather that has had its grain removed after tanning (via sanding, splitting, abrasion, etc.) is known as ‘degrained leather’. DRUM DYEING:​ Hides are placed into a large drum with dyes and then tumbled. This allows for full dye penetration into the leather fibres. DEERSKIN ​– Leather tanned from deerskin with the grain side left intact. When the grain is removed, it is then known as buckskin. Very supple, beautiful quality leather. Chrome tanned whole hides have little waste. Soft but tough and water-resistant, used for garments, and accessories. Usually about 2-3oz with hides 8-10 square feet. DISTRESSED LEATHER: ​It’s tanned specifically to exhibit a distressed look reminiscent of leather that has aged beautifully with time and use. E EMBOSSED LEATHER:​ Leather embossed or printed with a raised pattern either imitating or resembling the grain pattern of some animal, or being quite unrelated to a natural grain pattern. ENHANCED GRAIN: ​Leather that is lightly buffed to improve the surface and embossed to simulate an attractive grain or to add decorative texture. EXOTIC LEATHER ​– Refers to a number of unusual animal/reptile skins that are tanned primarily for the small leather good/accessory/shoe business (i.e. lizard, snake, crocodile skins, etc.) F FAT TANNED:​ Hide or skin, which has been converted into leather by treatments, involving the incorporation of soft animal fats. FAT WRINKLE: ​Marks or wrinkles that form in the grain due to fat deposits in the animal’s skin; they are sought after because they are not visible in imitation or corrected grain leather. FINISH: ​Any further steps taken after the dying treatment such as rolling, pigmented spraying, lacquering, antiquing, tipping, waxing, buffing, embossing, glazing, waterproofing or flameproofing in order to provide more abrasion and stain resistance and/or a more even surface colouration. FLESH SIDE:​ The inner side of a hide or skin. FULL GRAIN:​ The term used for the outside original skin or hide which has had the hair removed, but otherwise has not been corrected or altered. Full-grain leather possesses the genuine original grain of the animal. FULL HAND: It​ defines a leather which is full-bodied and robust. Also called round hand. G GARMENT WEIGHT LEATHER: ​ is thin and supple enough to be sewn into clothing. It is usually is between 1oz to 3oz, and often comes from lamb, goat, pig, deerskin, or cowhide splits. It is usually sewn with a sewing machine, not worked by hand. GRAIN: ​The pattern, characterized by the pores and peculiar to the animal concerned, visible on the outer surface of a hide or skin after the hair has been removed. GLAZED FINISH:​ The leather surface is polished to a high lustre using glass on steel rollers under lots of pressure – similar to an aniline finish. GLOVE LEATHER:​ Soft leather, usually lambskin, which is used to make leather gloves. GRAIN SUEDED: Also​ known as “snuffing”, this is the process of abrading the grain side of the hide to achieve a buffed or suede texture. GRAIN SPLIT:​ The outer (wool or hair) layer of a hide or skin that has been split into two or more layers. GRAINED LEATHER:​ Any leather on which the original natural grain has been changed or altered by any method, process or manipulation; also top grain. GOATSKIN:​ A soft resilient leather slightly thicker than lamb leather, usually used for garments and small accessories. Goatskin had a natural pebbled grain which is sometimes flattened during the tanning process. Hides are about 5-6 square ft GUM TRAGACANTH:​ Natural gum-based edge slicking and burnishing compound for use on natural or coloured veg-tanned leather. Produces a professional-looking, smooth, shiny, burnished edge.
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