Genet Resour Crop Evol DOI 10.1007/s10722-017-0516-2 RESEARCH ARTICLE Domestication, diversity and use of Brassica oleracea L., based on ancient Greek and Latin texts Lorenzo Maggioni . Roland von Bothmer . Gert Poulsen . Elinor Lipman Received: 18 October 2016 / Accepted: 11 April 2017 Ó The Author(s) 2017. This article is an open access publication Abstract The domestication process of Brassica Keywords Brassica oleracea Á Domestication Á oleracea L. has not been fully clarified, either Culinary uses Á Medicinal uses Á Genetic diversity regarding its initial location or the progenitor species involved. Two alternative hypotheses proposed so far point to either a northwest European or a Mediter- Introduction ranean location. Previous studies to clarify the domestication process focused on linguistic aspects Cultivated varieties of Brassica oleracea L., often and on the earliest occurrences in ancient literature of referred to as ‘brassica vegetables’ or ‘cole crops’ words referring to B. oleracea. Those studies are here (Haynes et al. 2009) share a common C-genome made extended to offer a comprehensive account of literary of nine chromosomes and are characterized by an occurrences of the brassica vegetables in ancient outstanding diversification of morphological types. Greek and Latin texts, between the VI century B.C.E. These must have differentiated under human selection, and the IV century C.E. This study offers a contribu- starting from a simple leafy type (leafy kale, var. tion to ancient ethnobotanical knowledge in the viridis L.) into various highly valued modifications Mediterranean, including agricultural practices and involving arrested development and enlargement of culinary and medicinal uses. It also defines the time the inflorescences in broccoli (var. italica L.) and when increasing diversity of crop varieties is docu- cauliflower (var. botrytis L.), folding of the leaves into mented and it adds weight to the hypothesis of a ‘heads’ in cabbage (var. capitata L.), enlargement of Mediterranean location of the domestication of B. the basal stem in kohlrabi (var. gongylodes L.), oleracea. thickened stems in marrow-stem kale (var. medullosa Thell.), proliferation of heading buds in Brussels sprouts (var. gemmifera (DC.) Zenker), etc. A number L. Maggioni (&) Á R. von Bothmer of wild forms mainly growing on steep cliffs over- Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, Alnarp, hanging the Mediterranean Sea (more than ten species, Sweden with several endemisms) or the European West e-mail: [email protected] Atlantic coasts (B. oleracea L. subsp. oleracea) also L. Maggioni Á E. Lipman share the n = 9 C-genome and can be grouped Bioversity International, Rome, Italy together with the domesticated forms into a homoge- neous interfertile group variously called ‘B. oleracea G. Poulsen group or cytodeme’ or ‘Brassica Section Brassica’ University of Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark 123 Genet Resour Crop Evol (Snogerup et al. 1990; Gladis and Hammer 2003; 2013). The previous work of Maggioni et al. (2010) Brullo et al. 2013). mainly concentrated on etymology and the search for The domestication process leading to the cultivated the earliest accounts of B. oleracea in literature. This forms of B. oleracea L. has not been fully clarified, paper offers a more systematic survey of ancient regarding either its initial location or the progenitor Greek and Latin literature, aiming to give a more species involved (Zohary et al. 2012). Based on their comprehensive, if not exhaustive, account of the ability to intercross with cole crops, all the n = 9 references made to B. oleracea, ranging from the C-genome wild Brassica species have been considered earliest Greek fragments of the VI century B.C.E., up candidate wild progenitors. Before 1990, i.e. before to Latin texts of the IV century C.E. The existing forms the first relevant results of molecular genetics, a of the cole crops during the period surveyed, the polyphyletic view prevailed about the domestication agricultural practices and the corresponding culinary of the cole crops, with B. oleracea subsp. oleracea and medicinal uses are described. Apart from offering considered one of the ancestors, while other Mediter- a contribution to ethnobotanical knowledge related to ranean species had likely been involved in the origin of the ancient Greek and Latin world, this study adds some of the cole crops (Thompson 1976; Snogerup weight to the hypothesis of a Mediterranean location 1980). Based on an analysis of nuclear restriction for domestication of B. oleracea. fragment length polymorphisms (RFLP), Song et al. (1990) concluded that wild B. oleracea subsp. oler- acea seemed to be the closest to cultivated forms and, Methodology thus, most closely related to the ancestors of all cultivated B. oleracea, while other wild Brassica We used the general term ‘cole’ to refer to any B. species with a Mediterranean distribution were more oleracea crop, in order to avoid the ambiguity of distantly related. As this taxon (B. oleracea subsp. words like ‘cabbage’ or ‘kale’ that are sometimes used oleracea) is only found on West European Atlantic in general terms, but can also be referred to specific cliffs in Britain, France, northern Spain and the crops of the B. oleracea group. German Islands of Helgoland and Ru¨gen (and We derived a list of ancient Greek and Latin words formerly also in Ireland) (Snogerup et al. 1990; that could be referred to B. oleracea from the Greek Drenckhahn 2017), it has been hypothesized that the and Latin Lexica and Thesauri and other reference initial domestication took place on the Atlantic coast books and online services: Estienne1 (1831–1865); and early cultivated forms were brought from there to Facciolati et al. (1864–1887); Thesaurus Linguae the Mediterranean, where selection for many of the Latinae (1906–1912); Ernout and Meillet (1932); early crop types occurred (Hodgkin 1995). More Liddell and Scott (1982); Andre´ (2009); Thesaurus recently, Maggioni et al. (2010) proposed that a Linguae GraecaeÒ (2014). Thesauri are reference Mediterranean domestication would be supported by books including all the forms of the words used and linguistic and literary considerations, since both Greek their location in ancient texts. These books were used and Latin literature, from their earliest traces, are rich to track down the occurrence of sentences referring to in expressions indicating a deep-rooted knowledge coles within the entire corpus of ancient Greek and and use of the B. oleracea crops. Conversely, no Latin literature. Whenever possible, we then looked accounts have been found of B. oleracea in any other for the actual original texts and their translations into early historical documents, from the Fertile Crescent, English, French or Italian. Useful online sites provid- ancient Egyptian or Celtic civilizations. ing original texts or translations were the Perseus Several authors have looked for literary or icono- Digital Library, the Theoi Classical E-Texts Library, graphic accounts of B. oleracea before, with the Bill Thayer’s website, Corpus Scriptorum Latinorum purpose of getting closer to understanding the origin of the related crops, their diversity and uses in the past (Helm 1960, 1963; Toxopeus 1974; De Saint-Denis 1 1980; Hodgkin 1995;Ko¨rber-Grohne 1995; Hondel- Henri Estienne, also known as (Henricus) Stephanus, a French scholar and printer of the 16th century, produced the Thesaurus mann 2002; Herve´ 2003; Cerchiai Manodori Sagredo Graecae Linguae in 1572. This refers to the later (edited) printed 2004; Andre´ 2009; Prakash et al. 2011; Toscano et al. version. 123 Genet Resour Crop Evol 2 and The Latin Library. For papyrological documents, • Agr. = De Agricultura [On Agriculture] by CATO we consulted the following online sources: the Hibeh • Deip. = Deipnosophiste¯s [the Deipnosophists] by papyri, Papyri info and POxy: Oxyrhynchus Online. ATHENAEUS As in some cases the available English translations • Med. = De Medicina [On Medicine] by CELSUS were very old and did not use modern language, we • NH = Naturalis Historia [Natural History] by have re-interpreted or re-worded some expressions, PLINY (THE ELDER) based on comparison with translations into other • Op. agr. = Opus agriculturae [Treatise on farm- languages. Occasionally, we have directly translated ing] by PALLADIUS the Greek or Latin texts. • PPH = Peri phyton historia [Enquiry into plants] The Greek words that we looked up as likely by THEOPHRASTUS references to B. oleracea were krambe¯ and rhaphanos. • PYI = Peri yle¯s iatrike¯s, also known as De The Latin words were: brassica, caulis or colis and Materia Medica [On medical matters] by crambe (coles); cauliculos or coliculos (young stalks DIOSCORIDES or small, tender shoots); cima or cyma (tender • RR = De Re Rustica [On Agriculture] by COL- inflorescence tops); and (h)olus (generic green veg- UMELLA / and also (same title) by VARRO. etables and specifically coles as of the I century C.E.). We were aware, based on the study made by Maggioni et al. (2010), that in some cases the same word had Results different meanings, depending on the Greek dialect (e.g. rhaphanos was used to mean ‘cole’ in Athens, but Ancient Greek literature it meant ‘radish’ in other parts of Greece). In other cases, the same word changed its meaning with the Homer and Hesiod were the earliest authors of Greek passing of time, for example the meaning of caulis was literature to have reached us and their works are initially simply the ‘stem’, but it started to mean the estimated to have been written in the VIII century entire cole plant as of the I century B.C.E. Similarly, B.C.E. Although the Homeric poems contain about 50 the word cauliculos may generically indicate tender botanical names, coles are not mentioned (Forster shoots of any plant, but it refers specifically to B. 1936). The next oldest available works are fragments oleracea if not otherwise specified. The word (h)olus of comedy poems of the VI and V centuries B.C.E. In initially simply had the meaning of ‘vegetable’, but the comedies written by Ananius, Epicharmus, subsequently, also around the I century B.C.E., it 3 Eupolis and Teleclides (ATHENAEUS, Deip.