National Park Service Park News U.S. Department of the Interior

The Novarupta

What do a botanist, a steaming volcanic landscape, and the national park idea have in common? Katmai.

In 1916 a team led by Robert F. Griggs—a botanist by training and profession—discovered the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Griggs immediately recognized the area was worthy of protection as a national park. Largely through his efforts, Katmai National Monument was established two years later.

In 2016, as the National Park Service celebrates its 100th anniversary, you are encouraged to find your park. Robert Griggs found Katmai and his legacy lives on. Does Katmai speak to you as strongly as it spoke to Griggs? How will you #FindYourPark? NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY NATIONAL What’s Inside: Brooks Camp ...... 6 Bearcam ...... 12 Centennial! ...... 14 ROY WOOD Three National Parks, Many Amazing Experiences

National Park Service Welcome to Katmai Country U.S. Department of the Interior Welcome to Alagnak Wild River, Aniakchak parks. Many people over several genera- National Monument and Preserve, and tions worked tirelessly to protect national Katmai National Park and Preserve! In parks in the past. In this second century of these nearly five million acres of remote National Park Service history, that legacy of Alagnak Wild River Alaska, you will discover lands that are stewardship continues. Aniakchak National Monument and home to abundant wildlife, a diverse range Preserve of habitats, spectacular scenery, and a long Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai are among Katmai National Park and Preserve human history. Volcanic areas like the Val- more than 400 national park areas across ley of Ten Thousand Smokes and Aniak- the nation, ranging from vast wilderness Katmai was declared a national monument in 1918. Aniakchak National Monument was chak Caldera are graphic reminders of the areas to historical sites in urban centers. established in 1978. The 1980 Alaska Na- awesome power of our changing earth. National parks exist so that important tional Interest Lands Conservation Act estab- These areas offer wilderness, solace, rec- parts of our heritage can be experienced lished Alagnak Wild River, while Katmai and reation, and important habitat for majestic by future generations. Please join us in Aniakchak were expanded to include national animals like brown bears and salmon. celebrating the National Park Service’s preserve areas. Katmai was also redesignated Centennial. No matter where you are, get a national park at this time. Together, these In 2016, the National Park Service cel- out and #FindYourPark. lands encompass nearly five million acres of ebrates its 100th anniversary and you are unique landscapes managed by the National invited to celebrate with us. This is a time to Diane Chung Park Service. reflect back on the national park idea and Superintendent look ahead to the next century of national Mailing Address PO Box 7 King Salmon, AK 99613

Park Headquarters Phone: 907-246-3305 Fax: 907-246-2116

Web Alagnak: www.nps.gov/alag Aniakchak: www.nps.gov/ania Katmai: www.nps.gov/katm © ROY WOOD Contents: Southwest Alaska’s Park Lands...... 2-3 Katmai and the National Park Idea...... 14-15 Essential Information...... 4 Fishing Information...... 17 Getting Here, Getting Around...... 5 Backcountry Travel...... 18 Brooks Camp...... 6 Aniakchak National Monument...... 20-21 Camping at Brooks Camp...... 8 Alagnak Wild River...... 22-23 Brooks Camp Map...... 9 Park Neighbors...... 24-25 Bear Viewing...... 10-11 Cycle of the Salmon...... 26 Live Bearcams...... 12 Alaska Geographic Association...... 27 Safe Travels in Bear Country...... 13 Exploring the Human History of Katmai...... 28 2 The Novarupta Alagnak Aniakchak Katmai Wild River National Monument and Preserve National Park and Preserve

Unbounded by dams or arti- Midway down the wild, On June 6th, 1912 residents ficial channels, the Alagnak remote, and mostly roadless of the northern Alaska River meanders its way from Alaska Peninsula lies one of Peninsula experienced one of headwaters in the Aleutian the nation’s most fascinat- the largest volcanic eruptions Range across the Alaska ing, but least visited, volcanic in recorded history. The erup- Peninsula to Bristol Bay and the Bering Sea. features. Aniakchak National Monument tion at Novarupta volcano sent ash over The upper 69 miles of river are designated and Preserve surrounds a large caldera 100,000 feet into the atmosphere, led to the a national wild river, meaning free flow, no formed by the collapse of a 7,000 foot collapse of Mount Katmai, and created the dams, and little human impact. volcano. Set inland in a place of frequent Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. clouds and fierce storms, Aniakchak was From the time of the earliest Alaskans, the unknown to all but area Natives until the Katmai National Monument was estab- river has given much to those willing to 1920s, and had its last eruption in 1931. lished in 1918 to protect the volcanically learn its ways. In summer, the river teems Nestled inside the caldera is Surprise devastated region surrounding Mount with salmon. Falls brings migrating caribou Lake, a remnant of a much larger lake Katmai and the Valley of Ten Thousand and berries. It traverses the beautiful Alaska that catastrophically drained in a massive Smokes. Today, Katmai National Park and Peninsula, providing opportunities to expe- flood. Warm springs, melting snow, and Preserve is still an active volcanic land- rience the unique wilderness, wildlife, and glaciers feed Surprise Lake, which in turn scape, but it also protects 9,000 years of cultural heritage of the area. gives rise to the Aniakchak Wild River. human history as well as important habitat for runs of salmon and the thousands of This river is one of the most popular sport This narrow stretch of the Alaska Penin- brown bears that feed on them. fishing destinations in all of Alaska. Alag- sula boasts a rich human history. Volca- nak’s extraordinary rainbow trout, char, noes, earthquakes, and tsunamis have Katmai is a rugged and diverse land where grayling, and abundant salmon are some of interrupted the human story, yet the land bears are plentiful, salmon leap water- the most attractive sport fish in the world, abides as a wild place where people can falls on their journey to spawn, steaming and the river has become the most popular experience independence and interde- volcanoes serve as a reminder of the earth’s fly-in fishing destination in all of Southwest pendence. Life has persisted here in the power, and the stories of cultural change Alaska. face of catastrophic change. continue to live on.

See pages 22-23 for more information. See pages 20-21 for more information. See pages 6-18 for more information. © M. FITZ Glacially shrouded volcanoes, like Mount Mageik, form the geologic backbone of the Alaska Peninsula. Katmai National Park is the site of the largest volcanic eruption of the 20th century (see pages 14-15). The Novarupta 3 Essential Information

Dates and Hours of Operation anywhere on the Alaska Peninsula. See page Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai are open 24 13 for more bear safety information. Only non-guided sport hunting is allowed in hours a day every day of the year. Most services the Alagnak Wild River corridor. In all other such as lodges and air taxis operate seasonally. Visitors to Brooks Camp are required, upon areas, sport hunting is prohibited. All hunting arrival, to participate in a brief, mandatory bear activities require a license and are subject to National Park Service and concessionaire safety talk at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center. National Park Service and Alaska Department operated facilities at Brooks Camp, in Katmai of Fish and Game regulations and restrictions. National Park, are open from June 1 through Food Storage September 17. All food, beverages, garbage, equipment used Weather to cook or store food, and/or any odorous Even during summer, visitors to the Alaska Pen- Camping item must be properly stored in an approved insula should be prepared for cool and stormy Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls (i.e., bear-resistant container (BRC). BRCs include conditions with frequent strong winds. Clear the Brooks Camp Developed Area), camping those approved by the Department of Interior skies occur about 20 percent of days. In gen- is only allowed at Brooks Camp Campground. and Agriculture‘s Interagency Grizzly Bear eral, visitors to the Aniakchak area should ex- Camping is permitted elsewhere in Katmai with Committee (www.igbconline.org/images/pdf/ pect significantly cooler, stormier, and windier one exception (see page 18) and on any public Certified_Products_list.pdf) and additional conditions. Wherever you travel, remain aware lands within Aniakchak and Alagnak. items listed by the Alaska Department of of the dangers and treatments for hypothermia Fish and Game (www.adfg.alaska.gov/index. and be equipped with appropriate clothing and Fees and Reservations cfm?adfg=livingwithbears.bearcontainers). shelter. There are no entrance fees associated with Public food caches are available at Brooks public use of Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai. Camp. Pets Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) Reservations and fees are required for camping Hunting of Brooks Falls (i.e., the Brooks Camp in Brooks Campground and must be made by Sport hunting is permitted in the preserve areas Developed Area). In other areas, pets must be telephone or online prior to arrival at Brooks only of Katmai National Park and Preserve and leashed or physically restrained at all times. Camp. See pages 8-9 for more camping info.

Reservations and fees also apply for public use of Fure’s Cabin at the northeast corner of the Bay of Islands on Naknek Lake. Reservations can be made through www.recreation.gov.

Visitor Centers The Brooks Camp Visitor Center, open June 1–October 1, is the point of entry for all visitors to Brooks Camp. A park ranger is on duty to provide information, campground check-in, bear safety talks, and backcountry Weather Information for King Salmon, Alaska planning. An Alaska Geographic Association (AGA) bookstore offers books, maps, and other Month Average High Average Low Average Precip. Katmai-related items. January 22.8°F (-5.1°C) 8.0°F (-13.3°C) 1.03” (26.2 mm)

Located next door to the King Salmon Airport, February 23.8°F (-4.6°C) 7.4°F (-13.7°C) .72” (18.3 mm) the King Salmon Visitor Center provides March 32.0°F (0°C) 15.1°F (-9.4°C) .79” (20.1 mm) information on the many federal public lands of Southwest Alaska, particularly those in the April 41.3°F (5.2°C) 24.9°F (-3.9°C) .94” (22.9 mm) Bristol Bay area. A large collection of films is May 52.1°F (11.2°C) 34.8°F (1.6°C) 1.35” (34.3 mm) available for viewing and an AGA bookstore June 59.5°F (15.3°C) 42.2°F (5.7°C) 1.70” (43.2 mm) sells maps, charts, videos, posters, clothing and July 63.8°F (17.7°C) 47.5°F (8.6°C) 2.15” (54.6 mm) more. Contact the King Salmon Visitor Center at 907-246-4250. August 62.2°F (16.8°C) 47.4°F (8.6°C) 2.89” (73.4 mm) September 54.9°F (12.7°C) 40.3°F (4.6°C) 2.81” (71.4 mm) Bears October 40.5°F (4.7°C) 26.0°F (-3.3°C) 2.10” (53.3 mm) This is bear country! All park lands on the Alas- ka Peninsula contain substantial populations of November 30.5°F (-0.8°C) 15.9°F (-8.9°C) 1.54” (39.1 mm) brown bears. Be prepared for bear encounters December 25.1°F (-3.8°C) 9.3°F (-12.6°C) 1.39” (35.3 mm)

4 The Novarupta Getting Here, Getting Around

Quick Tips for Visiting Three of the Most Remote National Park Units MANY PEOPLE CONSIDER SOUTH- Aniakchak, and Katmai—provide a variety Brooks Camp and other locations along the west Alaska’s remoteness to be an attractive of commercial visitor services, including Naknek River drainage can be reached by characteristic, but the remote nature of the transportation, guided day trips, guided both motorized and non-motorized boats area necessitates careful planning in order multi-day trips, overnight accommodations from Naknek and King Salmon, located to overcome certain logistical and acces- and food services. Commercial partners are west of the Katmai. Boats can access the sibility challenges. Unlike most national authorized by permit to oper- Alagnak River from towns and villages parks in the United States, Alagnak, Aniak- ate in the parks. A complete along Bristol Bay and the Kvichak River. chak, and Katmai are almost exclusively list of services is available at accessed by plane or boat. Much of this go.nps.gov/AKComm. Aniakchak National Monument and area is rarely visited and opportunities for Preserve incredible wilderness experiences abound. Katmai National Park and Preserve and Other areas, such as Brooks Camp, are Alagnak Wild River Aniakchak is one of the least visited and more easily accessed and have amenities remote of all national park areas in the like lodging and hot meals. Katmai is located on the Alaska Peninsula, United States. It is located on the Alaska west of the Shelikof Strait and Afognak Peninsula about 450 miles southwest of The National Park Service headquarters for and Kodiak islands. The Alagnak River is Anchorage and 150 miles southwest of Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai is located located on the Alaska Peninsula about 260 King Salmon. about 290 miles southwest of Anchor- miles southwest of Anchorage. Most des- age in King Salmon. Regularly scheduled tinations in the Katmai region, including Most people access Aniakchak via char- commercial flights to King Salmon (AKN) Brooks Camp and Alagnak River, may be tered airplanes departing from King are available from Ted Stevens Anchorage directly accessed via air taxi flights originat- Salmon and other nearby towns and International Airport (ANC) via Peninsula ing from Anchorage, Dillingham, Homer, villages. Boats can also reach the Pacific Airlines and Alaska Airlines. Iliamna, King Salmon, Kodiak, Soldotna, coast of the monument and preserve. A few and other nearby towns and villages. adventurous groups have also hiked into These parklands are open year-round the Aniakchak Caldera via a cross-country for the adventurous. Numerous compa- Boats can access Katmai from villages and route from Port Heiden. nies—over 115 in and around Alagnak, towns along the Pacific Ocean coastline. NPS/M. FITZ The Novarupta 5 Welcome To Brooks Camp NPS/K. MOCNIK Brooks Camp is renowned for its remarkable bear viewing opportunities. For more information about bear viewing at Brooks Camp, See page 10. Brooks Lodge

Lodging, meals, flights, and The Bear Essentials: many other services at Brooks Brooks Camp attracts people from all over Naknek Lake (the largest lake within any Camp are provided by the world to fish for trout and salmon, to national park in the United States). From Katmailand, the park’s authorized conces- view brown bears, explore the Valley of Ten June 1 to September 17, the National Park sioner. Thousand Smokes, and to learn about the Service operates a visitor center, ranger sta- For more information on Katmailand’s sport long human history of the area. tion, campground, and auditorium. Several fishing, bear viewing, air services, and lodg- ranger-led programs are led each day (see ing opportunities go to www.katmailand. Brooks Camp is situated at the mouth page 7 for more information). com or call 1-800-544-0551. of the Brooks River, along the shore of

Please Remember... Pets areas. Only water can be consumed outside of Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles designated picnic areas. Upon Your Arrival (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls (i.e., the Brooks Camp Visitors to Brooks Camp are required to begin Developed Area). Gear and Equipment Storage their stay by checking in at the visitor center All gear and equipment must be attended or for a brief bear safety talk outlining park regu- Food Storage properly stored inside of a building. Gear or lations. Special regulations designed to keep Do not carry food, beverages, or any other equipment cannot be left unattended at any bears and people safe apply to Brooks Camp. odorous items around Brooks Camp. All food time. Caches for gear are located at the Brooks and drink, except water, must be stored inside Camp Visitor Center, Lake Brooks, and in the Accessibility of a building or designated food cache. Eat campground. While most trails around Brooks Camp and the and drink only in buildings or designated picnic See Please Remember on page 7... trail to Brooks Falls are wheelchair accessible, they are unpaved and frequently muddy. The walk to Brooks Falls can be arduous for some Bear Jam! people with limited mobility. A limited number Bear activity may delay crossing the bridge over Brooks River. Please of wheelchairs are available to borrow from the be prepared to wait in windy and/or rainy conditions and allow your- visitor center. self ample time to meet meal services and/or your departing flight.

6 The Novarupta ubiquitous inKatmai. Expecttoencounterthem. Biting insectslike mosquitoes andblackfliesare anklets of swollen,anklets of itchy insect bites—pain- to leave Brooks Campwith new belts and photographers’ skin. It isnotuncommon frantic paceto find the perfect shot into the mosquitoes may beworking at anequally perfect shot at Brooks Falls, black flies and While photographers are busy lining upthe come at aprice. Enjoying the beauty of Alaska does indeed unrelenting onslaught biting of insects. RAIN, COLDWINDS, AND THE Camp: go.nps.gov/brookscamphiking. the brochure onhikingatBrooks available atBrooks Camp.Checkout A varietyofhikingopportunitiesare Hiking Katmai-related items. available offering books,maps,andother ning. Abookstore (seepage27)isalso ground check-in,andbackcountryplan- is ondutytoprovide information,camp- From June1through October1,aranger Center Visitor Falls. Seepages10-11formore information. forms, FallsandRiffles, are locatedatBrooks the mouthofBrooks River. Two additionalplat- bears. TheLowerRiverPlatformislocatedat provide exceptionalopportunitiesforobserving Three viewingplatformsare ideallysituatedto Bear Viewing tion. gr is allowedonlyintheBrooks CampCamp- the Brooks CampDevelopedArea), camping 1.5miles(2.4km)ofBrooks Falls(i.e., Within Camping Please Rememberfrompage6... Creature Comforts: Braving Alaska’s Infamous Insects ound. Consultpages8-9formor

e informa- M. FITZ M.

M. FITZ on which insect ispeskiest. bites and thus there are differing opinions more, everyone reacts differently to insect and seemnonexistent the next. Further- no-see-ums could reign supreme one year weather conditions and temperatures, so tion sizes do vary each year depending on biting midges) peak in August. Popula- early summer. No-see-ums (very small typically most abundant inlate spring and At Katmai, mosquitos and black flies are brates. same goes for Alaska’s resident inverte- goes, to everything there isaseason. The attacked by mosquitoes alone. As the saying intact? For starters, don’t plan on being know inorder to survive with your skin horror stories, sowhat do you need to These parasitic invertebrates caninspire outdoo ful souvenirs happy of times inthe great at 1-800-544-0551andwww.katmailand.com. Lodge forreservations orcontactKatmailand Total triptimeis7–8hours.Inquire atBrooks rain gearandwarmclothesare recommended. m) ofelevationchange.Sturdy boots,water, miles (4.8km)round-trip, with1000feet(305 ranger-led hikeintothevalley. Thehikeisthree Thousand Smokes,youcantaketheoptional, CenteroverlookingtheValleyVisitor ofTen country. AfterlunchatTheRobertF. Griggs through someofKatmai’s spectacularback- A parkrangerleadsthisscenicbusride Valley ofTen ThousandSmokesTour Ranger-Led Programs: rs. just generally dismal. days when the weather iswindy, rainy, and Relief from biting insects usually arrives on somewhat painful, and intensely itchy. Later, the bite area canbecome swollen, attack. stealthy behind on the insides of T-shirts after a tell-tale signs include blood stains left the middle the of swollen bite area. Other fied by a characteristic red incision mark in proboscis. White sock bites canbeidenti- pierce the skin with their needle-like their hosts, unlike mosquitoes that merely Female flies actually rasp into the skin of clothing until they are successful. seeking out flesh, working their way under swarms canbebrutal and persistent in white stripes on their legs. White sock black fly, nicknamed for characteristic White socks are aspecies small of biting Brooks Camp, however, isthe white sock. theOne of most despised insects around Native dwelling(seephotobelow). hour andleadstoareconstructed traditional of plantsandanimals.Thewalklastsaboutan cal studiesandtraditionalAlaskaNativeuses tional HistoricLandmark,includingarcheologi- of Brooks RiverArcheological DistrictandNa- mile (0.4km)walkaboutthehumanhistory A parkranger-naturalist leadsthisshort.25 Cultural HistoryWalk topics. Theprogram lasts45minutes. life. Inquire atthevisitorcenterfortimesand on Katmai’s specialfeatures, history, andwild- offering informationanduniqueperspectives Join aparkrangerforanillustratedprogram Evening SlideShowPrograms See Comfortson page16...

NPS The Novarupta 7 Brooks Camp Campground

The only developed campground in Katmai National Park and Preserve is located at Brooks Camp.

With its wildlife viewing opportunities, access to Naknek Lake, and stunning views of nearby mountains, the Brooks Camp Campground is considered by many to be one of the top campgrounds in North America.

Because of the high numbers of bears in the Brooks Camp area, the campground is specially NPS/M. FITZ NPS/M. FITZ managed to minimize human–bear conflicts. Facilities in the campground include cooking and eating shelters as well as food and gear caches. Campers must take special precautions to re- duce odors from food, garbage, and anything Cooking which also contains a trash receptacle. In order else that could appeal to a bear’s strong sense All cooking and eating must take place within to prevent curious bears from investigating, of smell. one of the three shared cooking shelters. (As please store any unused equipment in the gear a safety precaution, campers arriving by air storage cache adjacent to the food cache. A Campground reservations are required and with portable camp stoves should bring empty fireproof locker is available for storage of all must be made in advance. The campground fuel bottles and purchase fuel at the Brooks flammable materials, such as stove fuel. has a limit of 60 people. See page 9 for more Lodge Trading Post.) Wash dishes and cooking information. utensils at the water spigot near the food stor- Electrified Fence age cache. Brooks Camp Campground is enclosed within Campfires an electric fence designed to deter bears from Campfires are allowed in the three designated Food and Gear Storage entering. The fence is not bear proof, although fire rings near each cooking shelter. Only dead All food, refuse, and any other odorous items once “shocked,” bears tend to avoid any sub- and downed wood may be collected for fire- (e.g., toothpaste, deodorant, etc.) must be sequent contact with such fences. wood. Please do not cook over open fires. stored in the centrally located food cache

How Far is the Walk to... Visitor Center Camp Brooks Campground River Brooks “The Corner” Cultural Site Lower River Platform Falls Trail Outhouse Falls Platform Lake Brooks

.3 mi .2 mi .1 mi .3 mi .6 mi 1.2 mi 1.2 mi Visitor Center 0 (.5 km) (.3 km) (.2 km) (.5 km) (1 km) (1.9 km) (1.9 km) Brooks Camp .3 mi .4 mi .4 mi .6 mi .9 mi 1.4 mi 1.5 mi 0 Campground (.5 km) (.6 km) (.6 km) (1 km) (1.4 km) (2.3 km) (2.4 km) Brooks River .2 mi .4 mi .3 mi .1 mi .4 mi .8 mi 1.1 mi 0 “The Corner” (.3 km) (.6 km) (.5 km) (.2 km) (.6 km) (1.3 km) (1.8 km) .1 mi .4 mi .3 mi .4 mi .7 mi 1.3 mi 1.4 mi Cultural Site 0 (.2 km) (.6 km) (.5 km) (.6 km) (1.1 km) (2.1 km) (2.3 km) Lower River .3 mi .6 mi .1 mi .4 mi .3 mi .9 mi 1 mi 0 Platform (.5 km) (1 km) (.2 km) (.6 km) (.5 km) (1.4 km) (1.6 km) Falls Trail .6 mi .9 mi .4 mi .7 mi .3 mi .6 mi .7 mi 0 Outhouse (1 km) (1.4 km) (.6 km) (1.1 km) (.5 km) (1 km) (1.1 km) 1.2 mi 1.4 mi .8 mi 1.3 mi .9 mi .6 mi 1.3 mi Falls Platform 0 (1.9 km) (2.3 km) (1.3 km) (2.1 km) (1.4 km) (1 km) (2.1 km) 1.2 mi 1.5 mi 1.1 mi 1.4 mi 1 mi .7 mi 1.3 mi Lake Brooks 0 (1.9 km) (2.4 km) (1.8 km) (2.3 km) (1.6 km) (1.1 km) (2.1 km)

8 The Novarupta Campground Reservations

Reservations are required for the Brooks Camp usually full, must be prepared to backcountry Campground from May to October. Reserva- camp outside of the Brooks Camp Developed tions can be made beginning January 5 each Area (defined as the area within 1.5 miles (2.4 year. Telephone and internet access are not km) of Brooks Falls). available at Brooks Camp, so campground res- ervations must be made prior to your arrival. Reservations cost $12.00 per person per night from June 1–September 17 and $6 per person

During the month of July, campsites may be re- per night in May and September 18 to October NPS/M. FITZ served for a maximum of seven nights, cumu- 31. Please visit www.recreation.gov, scan the Brooks Camp Campground is surrounded by an latively. Campers arriving without a reservation, QR code, or call 877-444- 6777 (from the electric fence. It is bear-resistant, but not bear- proof. Campers must take precautions so that bears especially during July when the campground is United States), 518-885-3639 (international). are not tempted to enter the campground.

Brooks Camp Area Map

0 400 Meters To Dumpling Mountain

0 400 Feet North Auditorium Float plane Access Cultural Site Visitor s Rive Center ok r ro Brooks Falls B Fish Freezing Brooks Lodge Building

Falls Platform Riffles Platform Naknek Lake Lower River Platform Broo ks Fa lls Trail Bus to Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes meets here.

Beaver Lake Brooks Pond Float plane To Valley of access Ten Thousand Smokes The Novarupta 9 Bear Viewing at Brooks Camp

Bears Galore BROOKS CAMP IS WORLD FAMOUS for its bear viewing opportunities. It is one of the most accessible and popular bear watching sites in Katmai National Park. Watching bears at Brooks Camp is an unforgettable experience, but timing your trip properly is critical because the overall number of bears as well as their general behavior varies with the seasons.

When can bears be seen at Brooks Camp? Bear viewing at Brooks Camp is best from very late June through the end of July and again in September. At other times of the year, like June and August, less food is avail- able along the Brooks River so bears aren’t seen as frequently.

Springtime is a lean season for bears who NPS/M. FITZ live in the interior of Katmai National Park. Watching a mother bear play with her cub is an unforgettable experience. Little food is typically available to bears in The behavior and appearance of the bears In July, many of the bears that cannot the spring so bears are dispersed through- also varies with the season. In July, more compete for fishing spots at Brooks Falls out the area and are only infrequently seen aggressive interactions between bears are will fish the lower half of the Brooks River. at Brooks Camp in May and June. observed, especially at the beginning of the At this time of the year, females with cubs month. Bears are also thinner and many are usually easiest to see near the mouth of When the salmon begin to arrive in late will shed their fur at this time. In Septem- the Brooks River. June, bears migrate to the Brooks River. ber, bears at Brooks Camp are typically less Bears can be seen fishing at Brooks Falls aggressive towards each other. In contrast After the salmon begin to spawn and die in and in the lower Brooks River throughout to early summer, bears in September and late summer, bear activity is concentrated the month of July. Mid-July is typically later in the fall are usually fat and covered in the lower half of the Brooks River. In when the largest number of bears can be with a new coat of fur. some years a few bears may still fish at seen along the river. In late July, bears begin Brooks Falls and the upper Brooks River to disperse to feed in other areas. Where can bears be seen at Brooks Camp? in September and October, but most will The brown bears of Katmai are eating patrol the slower moving waters of the In August, salmon are beginning to spawn machines. A Katmai bear must eat a full lower Brooks River as they search for dead in the Brooks River, but they are less year’s worth of food in 6-8 months to and dying salmon that collect in the slow concentrated, remain energetic, and are ensure its survival. Katmai’s bears predict- moving currents and eddies near the river no longer migrating. This creates difficult ably congregate around rich and concen- mouth and bridge. fishing conditions for bears and almost all trated sources of food. At Brooks Camp of the bears will leave the area. Like June, this means salmon. Three wildlife viewing platforms can be there are typically days in August when no found along the river—one at Brooks Falls, bears are seen at Brooks Camp. During the peak of the salmon migration in one downstream of the falls, and one at July, bears will fish for salmon all along the the mouth of Brooks River. Each one can By late August, many salmon have already Brooks River, but bears will be especially offer unique bear watching experiences in spawned and will begin to die. As the fish concentrated at Brooks Falls. The falls season. weaken and die, bears will again migrate creates a temporary barrier to migrating to the Brooks River to feed. In September, salmon which gives some bears the oppor- Other Considerations bears are usually present in high numbers tunity to catch many fish with little effort. Brooks Camp is a unique place with special as they search for dead and dying salmon. Typically, the largest and most dominant regulations designed to protect bears and bears along the river fish at Brooks Falls. people. See Bear Viewing on page 11... 10 The Novarupta Bear Viewing from page 10... ter windy, cool, and wet weather as well as traffic because of bear activity in close Everyone who arrives at Brooks Camp is biting insects like mosquitos and black flies. proximity to the bridge. To minimize the required to begin their stay by checking in chance of missing an outgoing flight or a at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center for a Weather and bear encounters can some- meal at Brooks Lodge, give yourself some brief bear safety talk outlining park regula- times delay the arrival and departure of extra time to cross the bridge in July and tions and proper behavior at Brooks Camp. float planes, so it is usually best to incorpo- September. rate some extra time into your itinerary in Be sure to dress and pack in anticipation of case of any delays. More people visit Brooks Camp in July than diverse and changing weather conditions. any other month. If you come at this time, Whether staying for just a few hours or for The floating bridge across Brooks River expect crowded conditions at the Brooks several days, you should expect to encoun- can temporarily close to foot and vehicle Falls Platform. Other Bear Viewing Opportunities in Katmai

A bear’s waking hours are often dominated by their search for food. Outside of their denning Where the Wild Things Are: A Bear Viewing Calendar for season, bears predictably congregate in food Katmai National Park and Preserve rich areas throughout the Katmai region. Some areas of Katmai National Park, like the food Location June July August September (primary food) rich Pacific coast, support some of the highest densities of bears ever documented. Other areas of the park with little food, such as the Brooks Camp (salmon) Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, support only a few bears in any season. Hallo Bay (vegetation, If you know what foods bears prefer to eat and clams) when that food is most abundant, accessible, Geographic and nutritious, then you will be able to find Harbor many areas in Katmai to observe these fasci- (salmon) nating animals. Many guided trips to observe Swikshak bears in Katmai’s backcountry are available. See Lagoon page 5 for information on commercial services. (vegetation)

Moraine Creek/ Funnel Creek (salmon)

= Few Bears; = Some Bears; = Many Bears NPS/C. TURNER Exceptional wildlife watching opportunities can be found throughout Katmai, like Hallo Bay. The Novarupta 11 Bearcam!

Watch Live Streaming Video of Brooks River and Its Famous Bears Watch live footage of brown bears fishing for salmon any- where with an internet con- nection. Katmai’s bearcams are live, freely accessible, streaming webcams from Brooks River. Cameras are located at Brooks Falls, at the outlet of the Brooks River, near the summit of Dumpling Mountain, and even under- water.

Don’t miss a second of the action. Go to go.nps.gov/bearcam and follow the links to watch the world famous bearcams.

Join the Bearcam Community Connect with the growing online commu- nity of Katmai and brown bear stewards. Discuss recent and past bearcam events Streaming webcams at Brooks River take you right with other fans, share your thoughts on to the action at Brooks Falls. Watch the cams at national parks and wildlife conservation, go.nps.gov/bearcam. and upload your favorite bearcam screen biology, behavior, and ecology of bears Funding for the installation, maintenance, shots for others to enjoy. On social media, and the salmon they depend on. Check and technical support for the bearcams is use #bearcam and join the real-time chat at the park’s calendar of events (go.nps.gov/ proudly provided by explore.org. Explore.org the bottom of any bearcam page on www. KATM_calendar) or social media pages for is a philanthropic organization with a mission explore.org/bears. the live chat schedule. to champion the selfless acts of others, cre- ate a portal into the soul of humanity, and Ranger Live Chats inspire lifelong learning. Katmai was granted Throughout the year, rangers host live web $150,000 by explore.org to further fund chats on the bearcams to discuss the educational efforts related to the bearcams.

Bears of Brooks River ebook

Every bear at Brooks River has a story. Since 2001, biologists at Katmai have conducted in-depth monitoring sessions along Brooks River to record data on bear and human use of the area. Over time, this information has grown into one of the most comprehensive data sets about bear use of a particular place ever recorded, and provides you with the opportunity to learn more about the lives of these amazing animals.

Bears of Brooks River, a free ebook, provides life history and identification information on the most commonly seen Brooks River bears as well as stories about bear research, biology, and behavior. Visit go.nps.gov/katmai_ebooks to download the latest edition of Bears of Brooks River.

12 The Novarupta You are in Brown Bear Country

Prepare For Bear Encounters Anywhere You Go Bears are fascinating animals that add are usually noisier and smellier than a single excitement and risk to any trip in bear person. Therefore, bears often become aware country. Katmai National Park and Pre- of groups of people at greater distances, and serve, and the surrounding lands in south- because of their cumulative size groups of west Alaska, support some of the highest people are also passively intimidating to bears. Hiking and traveling in groups is typically the densities of bears on earth, so the chances best way to increase your level of safety in bear of encountering a bear in Katmai are very country. high. Before you begin your visit, learn as much about bears as you can. You need Remain Calm not fear bears, but you do need to respect A bear may approach closely or rear up on its them. Follow these general guidelines dur- hind legs to identify you. Back away slowly, = Few Bears; ing your stay and don’t hesitate to ask your moving out of its line of travel if necessary. guide or a ranger for more information. You may need to leave a trail temporarily to Don’t Get Too Close allow a bear to pass. If a bear follows you, stop Avoid Surprise Encounters and hold your ground. If a bear continues to Take appropriate steps to avoid surprising for Comfort! approach, make noise, wave your arms, and try bears. Where visibility is limited or where windy to appear as large as possible. conditions prevail, make noise to warn bears of your approach. The human voice is the best Give Bears Space If a Bear Makes Contact, Play Dead tool for this. Bears may not associate other Do not approach bears within 50 yards (46 m), Fall to the ground on your stomach with your noise makers, such as bells, with people. If or as otherwise directed by National Park Ser- legs apart. Lock your hands behind your neck you see a bear that is unaware of you and/or vice personnel. Some bears need more space to protect your neck and face. If you do get far away, back away slowly and quietly while than others. To lessen your impact on the rolled over, keep rolling until you’re face down observing the bear’s behavior. animals, avoid actions that interfere with bear again. Stay quietly in this position until the movement, behavior, or foraging activities. bear has left the area. If the attack continues Avoid Food Sources That Attract Bears Please check with a park ranger if you’re un- long after you have assumed the protective Bears can be especially protective of concen- sure about a situation. In general, the greater position, fight back vigorously. trated food sources like salmon and animal the distance between yourself and a bear, the carcasses, so be especially cautious in areas safer you can be. For More Information and Regulations where bears are likely to gather and feed. Stay Special regulations designed to keep bears far away from animal carcasses. Bears often Hike and Travel in Groups and people safe apply in Katmai. See page 6, defend these aggressively. Groups of four or more people are typically pages 17-18, and Katmai’s bear safety pages very safe in bear country. Groups of people at go.nps.gov/Katmai_bearsafety for more in- Do Not Run depth information. Running may encourage a bear to pursue you. Bears can run faster than 30 mph (50 km/hr). You cannot outrun them. If you are charged, try to appear non-threatening. Stand your ground and speak to the bear in a calm voice. Bears sometimes come within a few feet of people before stopping. NPS The Novarupta 13 Katmai and the National Park Idea NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY NATIONAL The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes filled its discoverers with wonder, awe, curiosity, and a sense of stewardship. Robert Griggs: Katmai’s First Champion On June 6, 1912, Novarupta Volcano graphic Society into the heart of the area. “The sight that flashed into view...was one exploded in a remote valley on the north- He discovered far more than imagined. of the most amazing visions ever beheld by ern Alaska Peninsula. For 60 hours, ash and mortal eye. The whole valley as far as the pumice darkened skies across the region, In July 1916, Griggs and his team suffered eye could reach was full of hundreds, no pyroclastic flows and surges buried Ukak through exhaustive slogs in quicksand, thousands--literally tens of thousands--of River valley, and the summit of Mount punishing wind storms, and two treacher- smokes curling up from its fissured floor.” Katmai collapsed forming a 2000 feet (600 ous climbs to reach the rim of Mount See Griggs on page 15... m) deep caldera. Katmai’s newly formed caldera. On July 31, the day after their second Mount Katmai The ash and pumice released during the ascent, Griggs continued toward Katmai eruption represents over 3 mi3 (13.5 km3) Pass. Temporarily leaving behind one of magma beneath the earth, 30 times more companion who “was incapacitated by magma than the 1980 Mount Saint Helens too many flapjacks,” he and L.G. Folsom eruption. The Novarupta-Katmai eruption traversed a deeply gullied notch between was the largest of the 1900s and one of the Mount Trident and Mount Mageik. five largest in recorded history. Just as Griggs was ready to turn back, he The eruption created a harsh land of aban- caught sight of a small volcanic steam vent doned villages, ghost forests, quicksand, in Katmai Pass. After warming his hands and ash covered mountains. Even so, a few in this small fumarole, he spotted another, people were eager to explore the trans- much larger one nearby. Curiosity hastened formed terrain. Curious about vegetative him forward. In the January 1917 issue of recovery in the wake of such a large scale National Geographic Magazine, Griggs E.C. KOLB / NAU CLINE LIBRARY eruption, Robert Griggs organized and led described what he saw next. Robert Griggs (1881-1961) led several National Geographic Society expeditions that brought world- expeditions funded by the National Geo- wide attention to the Katmai region. 14 The Novarupta NPS/B. PLOG Several hundred feet of ash and pumice cover the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes near Novarupta. Griggs from page 14... “It was as though all the steam engines in the world, assembled together, had popped their safety valves at once and were letting off steam in concert.”

Griggs discovered the Valley of Ten Thou- sand Smokes, an amazing 46 mi2 (120 km2) steaming landscape. Later that night, he found sleep impossible—his mind rest- less with thoughts. Griggs later described himself as “overawed” but he “had seen enough to know that we had accidentally discovered one of the great wonders of the world.”

What to do with such a place? Citing Yel- lowstone as an example Griggs answered, “I recognized at once that the Katmai NPS/M. FITZ district must be made a great national park Volcanic gas vents, or fumaroles, in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes formed where water became accessible to all the people.” Through superheated by heat trapped within the 1912 ash flow. Today, fossil fumaroles in the Valley are recognized by their colorful halos. Most of these fumaroles cooled by the late 1920s. the National Geographic Society, Griggs lobbied for permanent protection of the Katmai region. Two years after the discov- Gilbert Grosvenor ery of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, Robert Griggs received enthusiastic support Katmai National Monument was estab- from Gilbert H. Grosvenor, then President of the lished by presidential proclamation. National Geographic Society, to explore Katmai. Did Grosvenor plant the seeds of the national park idea in Griggs’s mind? The National Park Service celebrates its centennial in 2016, but the national park Shortly before Griggs discovered the grandeur idea was born long before in the minds and

of Katmai, Grosvenor discovered the importance NPS actions of citizens. It lived in the mind of of national parks. In 1915, Stephen Mather Gilbert H. Grosvenor Robert Griggs during his explorations of invited Grosvenor to the Sierra Nevada in a bid to garner support for the fledgling national Katmai. He “found” Katmai and became park idea. Grosvenor was overwhelmed by the trip and quickly became a staunch supporter of Katmai’s first modern day champion. national parks. He helped Mather draft the Organic Act of 1916 which established the National Robert Griggs’s discovery of and subse- Park Service. quent efforts to protect the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes exemplifies the national Griggs was likely familiar with Grosvenor’s support of national parks since the entire April 1916 park idea. This idea continues to live in the edition of National Geographic Magazine was devoted to national parks. Grosvenor also fully hearts and minds of people all over the supported Griggs’s efforts to protect Katmai. Today, Grosvenor Camp and Lake Grosvenor bear his name—a tribute to an influential national park supporter. world. How will you #FindYourPark? The Novarupta 15 Photographing a Wild Heritage

location. If minimum distances exist for them engaging in inappropriate approaching wildlife, follow them. or harmful behavior. Many people • In the absence of management authority, unknowingly endanger themselves and use good judgment. Treat the wildlife, animals. plants and places as if you were their • Report inappropriate behavior to proper guest. authorities. Don’t argue with those who You are encouraged to enjoy Katmai’s wildlife, • Prepare yourself and your equipment don’t care; report them. but please do it with respect and care. National for unexpected events. Avoid exposing • Be a good role model, both as a parks are symbols of our wild heritage. The yourself and others to preventable photographer and a citizen. Educate forethought of past generations has given us mishaps. others by your actions; enhance their the special places we enjoy today. Help protect understanding. and preserve the natural wonders of Katmai, Individual: Expertise and Responsibility Aniakchak, and the Alagnak for the future by • Treat others courteously. Ask before This copyrighted information has been reprint- maintaining standards of ethical photogra- joining others already shooting in an ed with permission from the North American phy—it’s up to each of us. area. Nature Photography Association. For more • Tactfully inform others if you observe information, please visit www.nanpa.org. The North American Nature Photography Asso- ciation (NANPA) encourages adherence to the following Principles of Ethical Field Practices:

Environment: Knowledge of Subject and Place • Learn patterns of animal behaviors so as not to interfere with animal life cycles. • Do not distress wildlife or their habitat. Respect the routine needs of animals. • Use appropriate lenses to photograph wild animals. If an animal shows stress, move back and use a longer lens. • Acquaint yourself with the fragility of the ecosystem. Stay on trails that are intended to lessen impact.

Social: Knowledge of Rules and Laws • When appropriate, inform managers or other authorities of your presence

and purpose. Help minimize cumulative NPS/M. FITZ If people behave consistently, then animals may learn to behave consistently around people. Your potential impacts and maintain safety. impact on animals can be minimized by photographing from predictable places like the wildlife viewing • Learn the rules and laws of the platforms at Brooks Camp.

Comforts continued from page 7... insects play in the ecosystem. Male mosqui- Fortunately, skies around Brooks Camp are tos and black flies are pollinators. They all clear for only 20 percent of the summer. serve as food sources for other animals. The best defense against the insect mobs is Furthermore, they respond more quickly to to cover up. Many people report that insect environmental changes than vertebrates do, repellent containing DEET is not always which can help provide early detection of effective. Therefore, it is wise to invest in ecological changes. a good head net, wear long sleeved shirts, and be prepared to tuck your pant legs into Regardless of their ecological importance, your socks on particularly buggy days. the insects of Katmai provide visitors with something else: stories to take back home— It may be difficult to see any value in the battle scars, even—to remind us that the NPS/M. FITZ Black fly larvae live in clean and cold flowing water Class Insecta after being harassed by a beauty of Alaska can’t be won without before they pupate into aerial adults. Early in cloud of black flies or mosquitoes, but persevering through hardships, however summer, they not hard to find on rocks and logs in Katmai’s streams. consider the indispensable role these large, or small, they may be. 16 The Novarupta Gone Fishing?

Fishing in the Katmai Region A visit to Alagnak and Katmai offers tre- spot bears for you. At minimum, keep 50 yards https://youtu.be/snKzEskc_OY and in the mendous fishing opportunities for rainbow between yourself and all bears. Stop fishing Brooks Camp Visitor Center. This video, written trout, arctic char, grayling, and salmon. and move away well before a bear approaches and produced by experienced local fishing Katmai’s runs of salmon, in particular, also within 50 yards, or you may find yourself in a guides, succinctly highlights proper catch and situation with a fish on the line and a bear in release techniques. support some of the greatest gatherings pursuit. of brown bears on earth. No matter when Regulations or where you choose to fish, extra care Catch & Release Ethics Fishing in Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak and responsibility are necessary to protect Many areas in the Katmai region experience is subject to Alaska Department of Fish and people, wildlife, and the experience. heavy fishing pressure each year. Fish are often Game (ADF&G) regulations and restrictions. Fishing Around Bears caught multiple times per season. Therefore, Additional federal regulations apply to Brooks When salmon spawning activity peaks in a anglers must release fish as quickly and gently River. Alaska state fishing licenses are required. stream, bears and anglers compete for the as possible to ensure their continued survival. For more fishing information, ask a park ranger same resources. Expect to spend more time out or visit the ADF&G website at www.adfg.state. of the water than in, and be prepared to give Avoid playing a fish to exhaustion. As a fish ak.us/. up your fishing hole to a bear at some time is landed, keep it in the water when remov- during your trip. ing the hook. Fish can quickly suffocate when removed from water, especially after battling Splashing fish sound like food to bears. Bears the forces of rod and reel. Use barbless hooks will often move in your direction to investigate as much as possible. They are easier to remove a fish on a line. Always be prepared to cut or and less injurious to fish. break your fishing line, so that you can free the fish and move out of the water until the bear The slime on a fish helps to protect it from passes. Never let a bear acquire a fish from disease and parasites. Handling a fish roughly, you. with dry hands, or dragging it onto the shore removes this slime and reduces its chances for It is easy to become so engaged in fishing, survival. that you forget to be alert for bears. They are surprisingly quiet and difficult to see in dense A short video, Letting Go: The Art of Catch and grass or tall brush, so always have someone Release, is available to watch online at NPS/ROY WOOD The Novarupta 17 Backcountry Travel NPS/M. FITZ Hikers often find challenge, adventure, unique geology, and surreal beauty in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Logistics Leave No Trace Permits Leave No Trace is a national and international Permits are not required for backcountry travel program designed to assist outdoor enthusiasts or camping, but you are encouraged to submit with their decisions about how to reduce their a backcountry itinerary at the Brooks Camp impacts when they hike, camp, picnic, snow- and King Salmon visitor centers. In cases of shoe, run, bike, hunt, paddle, ride horses, fish, emergency, these itineraries give park rangers ski or climb. The program strives to educate a point of reference to begin a search and all those who enjoy the outdoors about the rescue. nature of their recreational impacts as well as techniques to prevent and minimize such Camping impacts. Leave No Trace is best understood as Camping is allowed anywhere on public lands an educational and ethical program, not as a within Aniakchak National Monument and set of rules and regulations. Preserve and Alagnak Wild River. At Katmai, no camping is permitted within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) Leave No Trace information is rooted in scientif- of Brooks Falls except within the Brooks Camp ic studies and common sense. The message is Campground. Seasonal camping restrictions framed under seven Leave No Trace Principles: may apply to other areas of Katmai. Please visit go.nps.gov/KATMbackcountry for the latest 1. Plan Ahead and Prepare information.

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces NPS/M. FITZ Campsites must be relocated at least 2 miles Backcountry campers should consider using portable electric fences in areas with high densities (3.2 km) after 14 consecutive days in one 3. Dispose of Waste Properly of bears. location. When choosing a campsite, follow Leave No Trace guidelines. Food, trash, and 4. Leave What You Find all odorous items must be carried and stored in a bear-resistant container (BRC). A limited 5. Minimize Campfire Impacts Attention Hallo Bay supply of BRCs are available to borrow at the Brooks Camp and King Salmon visitor centers. 6. Respect Wildlife Campers: Hanging food is not encouraged as trees of ap- propriate height are not usually available. 7. Be Considerate of Others To ensure bears’ free access to prime feeding sites and to reduce the risk of bear/human This copyrighted LNT information has been conflicts, camping within the core Hallo Bay Maps reprinted with permission from the Leave No Trace Maps are available from the USGS Map Store Center for Outdoor Ethics. For more information, Meadows is closed from April 1st through (store.usgs.gov). The Brooks Camp and King please visit www.lnt.org. October 31st annually. For more information, Salmon visitor centers (see page 4) maintain a please visit go.nps.gov/KATMbackcountry. limited selection of topographic maps as well. 18 The Novarupta Explore the Savonoski Loop Magnificent lakes, rivers, and mountains await should exercise caution to avoid these potential formation. Public use of Fure’s Cabin in Bay of exploration on the Savonoski Loop, an 80 mile hazards and practice Leave No Trace skills used Islands is available by permit. Reservations and (129 km) backcountry canoe or kayak trip. The elsewhere. permits are issued through www.recreation. trip generally takes four to ten days to com- gov. To read more about the Savonoski Loop plete, depending on weather conditions and Equipment rentals, outfitters, and guides may and other boating opportunities in Katmai, paddlers’ experience. be available locally. Contact the King Salmon please visit go.nps.gov/KATMboating. Visitor Center at 907-246-4250 for more in- Most paddlers begin at Brooks Camp and The 80 mile (129 km) Savonoski Loop. travel to the North Arm of Naknek Lake and Bay of Islands where rugged topography and an intricate shoreline invite further exploration. At historic Fure’s Cabin, a 1.5 mile (2.4 km) portage leads to Lake Grosvenor. After reach- ing Lake Grosvenor, paddlers usually continue southeast on the lake to its outlet. After reach- ing Savonoski River, paddlers are swiftly carried to the Iliuk Arm of Naknek Lake.

Bears are commonly seen along the route. In July, many paddlers avoid camping along Savonoski River, as it is particularly popular with bears fishing for salmon. Strong winds and cold water can create dangerous condi- tions at any time. Fallen trees form sweep- ers and strainers in Savonoski River. Paddlers River Crossings in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes poses example, can only be forded in a few places. • Release your pack’s belt buckle and special challenges for backcountry travelers. If you cannot find a safe crossing, then you loosen shoulder straps so you can drop Suspended volcanic ash and glacially-derived should not attempt to cross. You may also your pack easily. sediments in river waters often make water need to wait a day or longer until lower water • Cross early in the morning when runoff depths impossible to estimate, and most of levels permit safe crossing. from glaciers is low. the rivers in the Valley are confined to narrow • Allow yourself a retreat. Don’t commit to gorges that are deceptively deep and swift. Follow these tips when crossing: one route. Hikers must be especially cautious when • Watch the water’s surface and cross • Use a hiking pole or stick to help steady choosing a place to cross the Valley’s rivers and where you see small ripples, not waves. yourself and gauge the water’s depth. creeks. The River Lethe and Knife Creek, for • Wear shoes while crossing.

Below: Hikers can cross River Lethe in very few places. High and sediment-laden water often hide steep drop-offs and gorges (see inset at right).

High Water Drop Off Level

River Gorge

Typical Water Level NPS/M. FITZ The Novarupta 19 Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve NPS/J. MILLER Vent Mountain (middle foreground) in the Aniakchak Caldera is one of the more recent reminders of Aniakchak’s active volcanism. A Remote and Wonderful Land ANIAKCHAK IS OUT THERE, 2,500 feet (770 m) deep caldera was left flows. At 2.5 miles long, Surprise Lake is all really out there. It lies 450 miles south of in the eruption’s wake. Since then, sub- that remains of the once larger lake. Cata- Anchorage on the roadless Alaska Penin- sequent eruptions created cinder cones, strophic change has repeatedly altered the sula. Because of its remote location and lava flows, and explosion pits that dot the face of the landscape, but that is only one of notoriously bad weather, Aniakchak is one caldera floor. Aniakchak’s most recent the many things to discover at Aniakchak. of the least visited units of the national park eruption occurred in early May, 1931. system. However, the monument’s extraor- When you are in the caldera, you feel like Only a few dozen people per year visit mak- dinary landscape make it a truly unique you are inside of a volcano. ing solitude easy to find. It is rich with wild- place to experience. life and fish, and archeological excavations Aniakchak’s caldera was once partly filled have revealed a substantial record of human Aniakchak is a vibrant reminder of Alaska’s with a large lake, similar to Crater Lake in history in the area. Of course, there is location on the volcanically active Ring Oregon. Eventually, a weaker portion of always the volcano. If you visit be prepared of Fire. About 3,400 years ago, a 7,000 the caldera rim collapsed. The resulting for the worst, but expect to experience the feet (2150 m) volcano collapsed during a outflow eroded the rim to create the Gates best of Alaska. massive eruption. A six-mile (10 km) wide, through which the Aniakchak River now

Ancestral Surprise Lake once stood as much as 500 feet (160 m) above the floor of Aniakchak Caldera. It was es- timated to drain at the incredible rate of 8,238,000 feet3 (240,000 m3) per second. The lake disappeared within a few hours after water broke through the Gates on the caldera rim. NPS/T. HAMON NPS/T. 20 The Novarupta Through the Gates: Rafting Aniakchak Wild River Congress designated Aniakchak River a national wild river in 1980. Spectacular scenery and remoteness make rafting this river a rewarding experience. From Surprise Lake, the river flows a peace- ful mile (1.6 km) to the Gates. The river moves swiftly through this narrow gorge in the caldera wall, and large rocks demand precise maneuvering. A gradient of 75 feet per mile (14.2 m/km) makes this section challenging.

After a more gentle 10 miles (16.1 km) rafters arrive at the confluence with Hidden Creek where car-sized boulders, abrupt bends, and a narrow bed require extreme caution. After 5 more miles (8 km) the river slows as it meanders toward the Pacific Ocean and the seals, sea otters, bald eagles, and sea birds of Aniakchak Bay. Bears can be seen all along the river. NPS/T. HAMON NPS/T. Are you contemplating the trip? Aniakchak Rafters must negotiate car-sized boulders in The Gates of the Aniakchak Wild River. River challenges even the most experienced Bring durable, field tested equipment. river runners. Only a few parties float the Inflatable rafts 12–13 feet (4 m) long with river each year, mostly in July. Aniakchak’s rowing platforms are most popular, but weather is often severe. Strong winds and smaller packrafts are also used. Total cold temperatures can appear suddenly. float time is 3–4 days from Surprise Lake A hefty budget and pre-tested skills are to the ocean. Contact the National Park absolutely necessary. Plan on delays getting Service in King Salmon for the latest in and, especially, getting out. The river is information and always be prepared for dynamic; conditions often change rapidly. the unexpected. Safety Concerns for Backcountry Travelers The Alaska Peninsula’s backcountry provides speech, loss of coordination, drowsiness and access to millions of acres of wilderness and exhaustion. Avoid hypothermia by eating limitless possibilities for adventure and explora- plenty of high-calorie foods, drinking plenty of tion. With these opportunities come great water, and staying dry. Layer clothing appro- responsibility to maintain the safety of your priately for your level of activity to minimize group, yourself, wildlife, and the land. Planning sweating. ahead will help ensure your safety and enjoy-

ment and that of future visitors. Bears NPS This is bear country! All park lands Weather on the Alaska Peninsula contain Weather in all areas of the Alaska Peninsula substantial populations of brown can be both sudden and severe. Be prepared bears. Avoid close encounters for extreme conditions at all times of the year by remaining aware of your sur- and have the wisdom to alter, delay, or aban- roundings at all times. Store food don your travel plans if current conditions or and garbage properly, and do the weather forecast appear ominous. not approach bears within 50 yards (46 m). See page 13 for Hypothermia more info. Hypothermia is the critical lowering of the body’s core temperature and is signaled by

these symptoms: shivering, numbness, slurred NASA The Novarupta 21 Alagnak Wild River NPS/R. WOOD Alagnak Wild River is popular with rafters and anglers. Meander After Meander After Meander ALAGNAK RIVER FLOWS THROUGH A land of captivating landscapes, abundant wildlife, and cultural heritage. Meandering down the braided river, you may discover a bald eagle perched atop a spruce tree in the boreal forest, gaze at a moose brows- ing above the river bank in the wet sedge tundra, or perhaps encounter a brown bear feasting upon spawning salmon.

In Yup’ik, Alagnak means “making mis- takes” or “going the wrong way.” It’s easy to see why. The middle section of river rarely occupies one channel. Many local people call Alagnak the Branch River, because of its branching and meandering nature.

In order to protect the Alagnak’s free-flow- NPS/R. WOOD ing characteristics, striking scenery, diverse For much of its length, Alagnak River is rarely contained in one channel. wildlife, and cultural history, the upper 67 the corridor are privately owned by Alaska most popular destination for sport fishing miles were designated a wild river in 1980 Natives. Please respect the rights and in Southwest Alaska. by the Alaska National Interest Lands Con- privileges of private land owners. servation Act under the provisions of the 1968 National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. For centuries people have lived along the Alagnak and depended on the rich natu- Alagnak Wild River is part of the National ral resources for survival. Today, Alaska Wild and Scenic Rivers System. In Alaska, Natives from nearby villages own land 3,210 miles of protected wild, scenic and along the river and still depend recreational rivers have been designated. on the area for subsistence The National Park Service manages hunting and fishing. The approximately 83 percent of the river Alagnak River’s wildlife and Class I–III rap- within the Alagnak Wild River corridor; the ids offer an exciting trip for many boaters, remaining 17 percent of the lands within and the abundant fish make the river the 22 The Novarupta People and the Alagnak River Alagnak River has been a productive place Alaska Natives continue to own land along your free copy of the Illustrated Guide to to live for thousands of years—home to the Alagnak River, practicing traditional the Cultural History of the Alagnak Wild many people thriving on its bounty. An subsistence activities. As you enjoy the River at go.nps.gov/alagnakhistory. archeological survey conducted in 1997 river, remember those who came before revealed that people have lived along the and respect the special cultural heritage river for the past 8,000 years. of the area.

Some early inhabitants lived in settlements Please do not disturb with as few as 4 dwellings, while others archeological sites, leave resided in larger villages with as many as artifacts where you find 69 houses. From more recent times, the them, and do not camp or remains of an early historic village provide trespass on private property. evidence of a community whose members cached their food in the ground, attended a To learn more about the Russian Orthodox church, and buried their people who live and have lived loved ones in a cemetery. along Alagnak River, download A Subsistence Life

For thousands of years, people inhabited river, people traditionally caught birds and blackberries, blueberries and cranberries many places along Alagnak River such as gathered eggs, sour dock, wild celery and are gathered and stored for winter. Alagnag’llug (which is diminutive for teas- fiddlehead ferns. At summertime camps, Wild game such as caribou, moose, and ing cousins) and Locknuk. Their descen- fish are gathered for smoking, salting, bears are hunted. dants have since moved to small villages canning, and freezing for the winter. When like Kokhanok, Igiugig and Newhalen, but dogs were used as the major mode of trans- In the late fall, whitefish are harvested many people still return to the area for portation, fish was stored for them too. and stored for the winter. Smelt, trout and subsistence purposes. grayling are caught by ice fishing. Trapping Long ago, fish were stored in underground is still done to provide fur for hats, mittens, Alagnak River provides a place for people pits to make fermented fish heads, a coats and household use such as throw to thrive in a rural landscape. Along the delicacy. In the fall season, salmon berries, rugs and furniture coverings.

Salmon drying on a traditional rack. NPS The Novarupta 23 Neighbors on the Alaska Peninsula

Nikolaevsk Stuyarok Anchor Fitz Iliamna Pedro River Point Creek Koliganek Bay Newhalen Homer Halibut Kokwok Kachemak River Illiamna Bay Cove New Stuyahok Lake Seldovia River Cook Inlet Seldovia Lake & Peninsula Borough Kokhanok Village Ekwok English Port Goodnews Bay RiverIgiugig Bay Graham Platinum Kvichak Kamishak Kukaklek Nushagak Alagnak Wild River Dillingham Levelock Lake Bay Alagnak McNeil River River State Game Nonvianuk Sanctuary Lake Portage Kulik Lake Creek Bristol Bay Borough Katmai National Park Naknek King Salmon Nushagak South Kvichak Naknek and Preserve Bay Naknek Kenai Peninsula Borough Bay Naknek Lake Lake & Peninsula Borough River Kodiak Island Borough Brooks Camp

Brooks Lake

King Salmon Egegik Egegik Becharof River River National Wildlife Refuge

Afognak Becharof River Bristol Bay Lake Ouzinkie Kejulik Shelikof Strait Port Lions

Kodiak Upper Ugashik Lake Ugashik Bay Pilot Point Chiniak Ugashik Karluk Lower Ugashik Lake Portage Larsen Bay Bay Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Wide Bay Kodiak Kiliuda Bay Refuge National Wildlife Refuge Strait

Olga Sitkalidak Bay KATMAI Port Heiden Aniakchak NATIONAL Pacific Ocean PARK AND National Chiginagak PRESERVE Port Bay Akhiok Heiden Monument and Preserve Amber Bay North

Aniakchak Bay Alitak Bay Alaska Peninsula 0 20 40 Kilometers Sitkinak Strait National Wildlife 0 20 40 Miles Refuge Black Lake

Chignik Chignik Bay Lake & Peninsula Borough Lagoon Kodiak Island Borough Chignik Chignik Lake

Nelson Lagoon Port Moller

Herendeen

Bay Ivanof Perryville Bay

Stepovak Alaska Peninsula Bay National Wildlife Refuge KATMAI NATIONAL Unga Strait PARK AND North PRESERVE

240 The Novarupta 10 20 Kilometers

0 10 20 Miles NPS/R. WOOD A bear scans the area at McNeil River State Game Sanctuary.

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

Alaska Peninsula National Wildlife Refuge

This wildlife refuge stretches nearly 340 miles Located approximately 330 miles (547 km) Phone: 907-246-3339 along the Alaska Peninsula and encompasses southwest of Anchorage and 55 miles (89 km) www.fws.gov/refuge/alaska_peninsula/ about 4.3 million acres. Elevations range from south of King Salmon, the refuge is bordered on sea level to 8,225 feet (2,507 m) at the summit of the north by the Becharof National Wildlife Ref- Mount Veniaminof. It’s a place of towering vol- uge, and to the south it is bisected by Aniakchak canoes, misty fjords, steep cliffs, deep bays and National Monument and Preserve. long beaches that provides important wildlife habitat. Becharof National Wildlife Refuge

Becharof National Wildlife Refuge contains a Located approximately 295 air miles (475 km) Phone: 907-246-3339 variety of landscapes within its 1.2 million-acre southwest of Anchorage and 10 miles (16 km) www.fws.gov/refuge/becharof/ boundary including rolling tundra, wetlands, gla- south of King Salmon, this refuge is situated cial lakes, rivers, rugged cliffs and volcanic peaks. between Katmai National Park and Preserve to Land elevations range from sea level to 4,835 feet the north and the Alaska Peninsula Refuge to the (1,474 m) at the summit of Mount Peulik. south.

Alaska Department of Fish and Game

McNeil River State Game Sanctuary

Many of the same conditions that make Katmai To reduce the human impact on bears at McNeil, Phone: 907-267-2189 National Park and Preserve prime bear habitat the Alaska Department of Fish and Game limits http://1.usa.gov/s9aSFI are also found at McNeil River State Game Sanc- the number of visitors to 10 people per day by tuary. McNeil is located on Katmai’s northwest means of a permit lottery. Permit applications boundary and is famous for its large brown bear are due by March 1 and an application fee is population and for the opportunity it affords a required. small group of visitors to watch bears fishing and interacting in a natural setting.

Alaska State Boroughs

Bristol Bay Borough

Bristol Bay Borough is a rural Alaskan fishing King Salmon, connected to Naknek by the 15.5 Phone: 907-246-4224 community situated at the mouth of Kvichak mile (25 km) Alaska Peninsula Highway, serves www.bristolbayboroughak.us/ and Naknek rivers. The borough includes three as the transportation center and is the site of a cities: King Salmon, Naknek, and South Naknek. former U.S. Air Force Base. South Naknek is a Commercial fishing, salmon processing, and more traditional rural community and is not con- tourism are economic mainstays. The Bristol Bay nected to the other communities in the borough salmon fishing industry is one of the largest and by road. most valuable in the world. Lake and Peninsula Borough

Lake and Peninsula Borough encompasses geographical areas: the Alaska Peninsula/Pacific Phone: 907-246-3421 nearly 24,000 square miles—about the size of side, the Alaska Peninsula/Bristol Bay side, and www.lakeandpen.com West Virginia—and stretches from Lake Clark in Iliamna Lake/Lake Clark area. Major rivers in the north to Ivanof Bay in the south. the area provide outstanding recreational oppor- tunities and the largest runs of sockeye salmon in Incorporated in 1989, the borough includes 17 the world. Commercial fishing and fish process- communities with a combined population of ing are the borough’s economic foundation. about 1,800 people grouped in three distinct The Novarupta 25 NPS/R. WOOD 26 streams and lakes while migrating to the Salmon smolt (4)imprint on their natal predators. parr marks, help camouflage them from ing on zooplankton. Vertical stripes, called freshwater for one to two years while feed tween April and June. Most salmon live in Salmon (3)emerge fry from the gravel be- protection during this vulnerable period. migrate deeper into the stream gravel for attached to their bodies. They may even remain inthe nest feeding on ayolk sacstill mid-winter. The larva, called alevins (2), After incubating, salmon eggs hatch in to reproduce. trates their ability to survive and their drive spawn. Every stage inasalmon’s life illus - nearly insurmountable obstacles inorder to before, adult salmon struggled against oxygenated steams and lakes (1).Months salmon eggs incubate quietly inwell Peninsula islocked under ice and snow, DURING WINTER, WHEN THE ALASKA Salmon overcome tremendous obstaclesinorder toreproduce. The Novarupta Cycle oftheSalmon 7 8 6 - length, the earth’s magnetic field, genetics, Water temperature, oceancurrents, day or more each day during this long journey. Sockeye salmon may travel 37miles (60km) the watersheds where they were born (6). old when they begin migrating back to Most salmon are between one and six years prey. and usekeen eyesight to find and catch salmon are among the most abundant fish orcas, seals, and sharks. In offshore waters, in color to hide them from predators like Salmon inthe oceanare bright and silvery ocean (5),depending on the species. Salmon spend one to four years inthe the salty ocean. vive the harsh transition from freshwater to and gills are required for these fish to sur there. Substantial changes to the kidneys conditions they cannotknow until they get enter atotally new environment, whose a saltwater existence. Salmon prepare to many physiological changes to prepare for ocean. Along this journey, they undergo 1 USFWS

5 USFWS -

bodies drive the cycle once again (8). after, and nutrients from their decaying mid summer to fall. They die shortly there- spawn across the Alaska Peninsula from 1,000 eggs are laid ineach nest. Salmon lease milt and eggs simultaneously. Up to smother her eggs. Males and females re- winnow away sand and silt which would she fans the gravel violently with her tail to nests, collectively called aredd. To do this, Female salmon excavate several gravel elongated jaws (7). they develop distinctive humped backs and the skin and eggs. Their bones soften and ments from salmon flesh are transferred to they imprinted upon and smolt. asfry Pig- stream following the odors the of water they were born. They smell their way up- to the same lakes, rivers, and streams where eating. spawning 95-99%of salmon return Upon returning to freshwater, salmon stop precise timing and pattern the of migration. and other factors may all determine the

USFWS 2 4 3 Alaska Geographic Association

Support Alaska’s Public Lands Alaska Geographic is a non-profit bookstore, • Offers youth, family, and adult publisher, educator, and supporter of Alaska’s programs through Alaska Geographic magnificent parks, forests, and refuges. Let Field Institute courses. Alaska Geographic be your guide to the Last • Works with partners, including Frontier. Alaska Geographic’s mission is to land management agencies, meaningfully connect people to Alaska’s public business associates, and educational lands because they believe that inspired people organizations. become champions of Alaska’s parks, forests • Contributes financial support and and refuges. services to Alaska’s parks, forests, refuges, and other public lands. To accomplish their mission, Alaska Geo- graphic: Alaska Geographic’s work is undertaken with • Operates bookstores in 30 locations generous contributions from members and statewide, as well as an online store. donors, as well as income earned from our • Publishes books, maps, films, and free bookstores and other sources. Learn more at visitor guides. www.akgeo.org. Katmai Book and Movie A book and movie highlight the spectacular Other books, guides, maps, and films are avail- resources and history of southwest Alaska. able at Alaska Geographic’s online store. Get them both from the Alaska Geographic bookstore.

Katmai National Park and Preserve by Andromeda Romano-Lax explores the fascinating story behind the world’s larg- est volcanic eruption of the twentieth century. This cataclysmic event not only transformed a remote corner of southwest Alaska, it brought this dynamic and cultur- ally rich landscape to the attention of the outside world.

Ends of the Earth: Alaska’s Wild Peninsula, narrated by N. Scott Momaday, contains stunning high-definition footage of Katmai and Aniakchak, exotic lands of towering volcanoes and the greatest concentration of brown bears on Earth. The film captures the essence of southwest Alaska—-both its wild- ness and its historic past.

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The Novarupta 27 28 NPS NPS/M. HORNER home site along Brooks River. and reconstruction asemi-subterranean of by recounting the discovery, excavation, Don Dumond illuminates this rich history years. In StoryofaHouse, archaeologist able inthe Brooks River for nearly 5,000 People have usedthe rich resources avail- human activity for millennia. coastline, have beenabustling hub of the Brooks River area and Katmai’s Pacific thousands people. places, Certain of like you are following inthe footsteps of you visit Alagnak, Aniakchak, or Katmai, seem like untouched wilderness, but when THE ALASKA PENINSULA MAY Learn About Katmai’s People, Past and Present The Novarupta Explore Katmai’s HumanHistory flee thearea andabandontheirhomesinJune,1912.Thisisthevillageasitlooked1913. wasonceamajorcenter oftradeontheAlaskaPeninsula.VolcanicKatmai Village unrest forced residents to twined wi The human story Katmai isalso of inter- home. Learnabout their experiences in the lives the of people who called this area upta-Katmai eruption irreparably altered on the Alaska Peninsula. The 1912Novar- displaced people and even whole cultures past, volcanic eruptions disrupted and t h geology the of land. In the katmaihistory. Katmai’s human history at go.nps.gov/ gov/katmai_ebooks and learnmore about theseDownload books at http://go.nps. Volc Witness: First Hand Accounts oftheLargest and historyoftheKatmairegion. heartbeat oftheecology, economy, culture, economic fabricofthearea. Salmonare the are intricatelywovenintotheculturaland of acomplexecologicalsystem,andthey other salmon.Thesefishare thefoundation ing andrearing habitatfor sockeyeand Riverprotect criticalspawn- Alagnak Wild Katmai NationalParkandPreserve and Why? Becausethesalmonwillsoonarrive. working womenandmenflocktothearea. fishing boatsare movedinto thewaterand with activity. Afteralongwinterindrydock, Every spring,theBristolBayregion bustles Katmai’s Heartbeat anic Eruptioninthe20thCentury.