TR3-TR3B Installation Instructions For TR3 from TS13052E through TR3B ("High port" TR3’s) PART# 150-128, 150-130 440 Rutherford St. Goleta, CA 93117 1-800-642-8295 • FAX 805-692-2525 • www.MossMiata.com

Tools required: The vehicle shown in most of the illustrations is a Triumph TR3 with a steering rack conversion and an electric • TR3 Shop manual conversion. Although the instructional photographs may differ from your specific application, they are adequate to • Strap Wrench provide you with the information you need to complete a • successful installation of this product. Focus on the parts that are similar, rather than focus on the differences. • Thread sealer or Teflon tape • Phillips screwdrivers Note that the fuel lines will be replaced as part of the installation and that the tank will need to be filled with • Flat-blade screwdrivers at least 91-octane fuel before the is started. For • Torque wrench up to 65 ft-lbs maximum safety drain the tank before starting the installation process. • 3/16" Allen wrench • Hack saw or cut-off wheel Warning: Never smoke or work around open flames. • Wire cutters, strippers and crimpers If your car is + (positive) ground (earth), we will be • Side cutters (dikes) converting it to – (negative) ground (earth) during this installation. You must follow the extra steps detailed • 1/4", 3/8", & 1/2" ratchets in the back of these instructions regarding the proper • 3" and 6" extensions for above ratchets procedure to convert the subject vehicle to negative ground. • Combination wrenches and sockets in the following sizes: Note: For maximum performance and to prevent • 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 17mm premature failure, your should be in good mechanical condition and been recently tuned. • 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4", 15/16", 1-1/8" Check that the is also in good condition. • 9/16" swivel socket or universal joint 13/16" spark After checking the distributor in our test vehicle we plug socket found 10 degrees of mechanical advance for every 1000 rpm and a total mechanical advance of 28 You must have a Factory Workshop Manual to properly degrees at 3000 to 3200 rpm. complete this installation. These instructions soley focus on the installation of the Moss supercharger system 1. Use a timing light to check the total timing advance. and do not cover disassembly of the stock engine. You Increase the engine revolutions until no further must refer to the factory manual for proper disassembly movement can be observed at the timing mark. procedures and the correct torque specifications for the Check that the maximum advance occurs prior to attendant fasteners, as well as the proper routing of the 3500 rpm and note the point in the rpm range that wiring harness and ancillary hoses. Familiarize yourself maximum advance occurs. Rev your engine until the with these instructions before starting work, and consider timing mark stops moving. This is your total advance. seeking professional installation if you have any questions All of your advance should be in before 3500rpm. about how to properly effect the installation. Moss Motors Take note of the total timing number and RPM it was may be able to recommend a shop in your area. achieved at. Then rotate your distributor to achieve 30 degrees total advance. On our car, this was achieved at ~1 degree base timing.

Part # 150-128 -1- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

2. Disconnect both battery cables. 8. Disconnect the choke cable. Remove the linkage at the firewall-mounted throttle linkage cross 3. Place the vehicle on jack stands to allow access to tube. Then remove the hose from the distributor’s the underside of the car. vacuum advance diaphragm.

4. Remove the front apron from the vehicle, referring to 9. Remove the intake manifold with the the shop manual. Figure 4. attached. Set aside the intake manifold attachment clamps and nuts for later reuse. If necessary, replace the intake/ gasket. This would require removing and replacing the exhaust manifold as well. A new gasket set is provided. Figure 9.

Figure 4

5. Drain the cooling system. Remove the radiator by disconnecting the top and bottom hoses. Release the bolts on either side at the base of the unit and release Figure 9 the tie rods at the top. Remove the right-hand side radiator tie rod completely and remove the right-hand 10. Remove the accelerator pedal return spring. Do not side horn as well. Save the hardware that you remove skip this step. If left in place the return spring could for later reinstallation. Figure 5. cause the throttle to stick. Figure 10.

Figure 10

11. Remove the heater hose from the block-mounted Figure 5 heater control valve. Then remove the hose from the hose barb at the firewall. Figure 11. 6. Remove the cooling fan using a 7/16" socket.

7. Use a screwdriver to remove the inlet fuel line from the . Then remove the fuel line to the mechanical and then remove the mechanical fuel pump.

Part # 150-128 -2- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

Figure 11

12. Use a 5/8" combination wrench to remove the heater Figure 13 valve extension pipe. Use a hacksaw or cut-off tool to shorten the heater valve extension pipe. Shorten the pipe from 6" to a length of about 1.75" inches. Apply thread sealer or Teflon tape to the threads of the heater valve extension pipe. Then reinstall the heater valve extension pipe. Figure 12.

Figure 12

14. Use a 3/4 inch combination wrench and a 7/8" combination wrench to remove the generator mounting pedestal from the front engine plate. Use a 13. Disconnect the two wires at the back of the 1/2 inch socket or combination wrench to remove the generator. Loosen all of the generator bolts and generator mounting bracket from the . the generator link bolt. Remove the belt. Remove Figure 14. the generator link and the generator. The generator hardware will not be reused. Figure 13.

Part # 150-128 -3- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

17. Use two 7/16" combination wrenches to loosen the six fan hub extension retaining bolts. Use a 1-1/8" socket to break the crank bolt loose. Rotate the crank until the timing mark on the crank pulley lines up with the timing cover pointer. Remove the crank pulley bolt, the fan hub extension, the crank hub pulley and the two plates that make up the crank pulley. It is critical that you align the timing mark with the pulley before you remove the pulley. If you do not align the marks you may have trouble setting your timing when this install is complete. Figure 17.

Figure 14

Figure 17

Figure 14 cont.

15. Use a strap wrench and a 3/4" combination wrench to remove the water pump pulley nut. Use a pulley puller if necessary. Then use a 9/16" socket and a 3" extension to remove the water pump mounting nuts.

16. Clean the gasket surfaces. Install a new water pump gasket and the provided water pump from the kit. Install the new water pump pulley, securing it into place with locknut that comes with the pump. Figure 16.

Figure 16

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18. Install the six bolts through the rear side of the crank 19. Reinstall the fan hub extension using the provided pulley. Slide the crank hub pulley over the bolts and nuts and lock washers. Torque the nuts to 10 ft-lbs. into the recess on the front side of the crank pulley. Then install and torque the crank pulley bolt. Slide the crank pulley/crank hub assembly over the end of the crank shaft. Figure 18. 20. Bolt the tensioner plate assembly to the engine. NOTE: The timing tab will have to be bent as For the 5/16" upper bolt, there will be the bolt, a necessary to clear the crank pulley. You should lock washer, a flat washer, the tensioner plate and a try to have at least 1/8" of clearance between the washer on the back side of the idler plate followed timing tab and the crank pulley. Make sure the by the water pump housing. For the 7/16" lower timing mark on the pulley is aligned with the tab bolt, there will the bolt, then a flat washer, then the on the timing cover. If not, remove the pulley from tensioner plate, the tensioner plate standoff (tall the hub and re-clock it so that it is. Again, this is spacer), then the engine plate, a flat washer, a lock critical for setting . washer and a nut. Torque the 5/16" upper bolt to 17 ft-lbs. Torque the 7/16" lower bolt to 55 ft-lbs. Figure 20.

Figure 18

Figure 20

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21. Some kits will come with the 4-rib serpentine pulley installed on the . If yours is installed, skip this step. Loosen the 7/8" or 22mm nut on the provided alternator. Install the provided alternator fan and alternator pulley onto the provided alternator. Then install the alternator nut. Tighten the nut to 45 ft-lb. You will need to hold the fan from turning while tightening the nut. We have had good luck holding the fan with a carefully positioned rag and using an impact to tighten the pulley. Figure 21.

Figure 20 cont.

Figure 21

22. Mount the alternator bracket to the engine block with the supplied 5/16"-18 x 3/4" bolts (coarse thread) bolts, lock and flat washers, finger tight. Then insert the 4" long upper mounting bolt through the tensioner plate and the alternator mounting bracket. This will allow you to align the hole in the alternator bracket to the hole in the tensioner plate bracket. Push the alternator bracket forward so that the tube at the top of the alternator bracket is flush with the backside of the tensioner plate. Then tighten the three mounting bolts to 17 ft-lbs. The 4" long alternator mounting bolt should still slide freely with the bolts tightened. Now remove the bolt so that the alternator can be mounted using it. Figure 22.

Part # 150-128 -6- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

24. For the bottom bolt on the alternator, we have supplied both a fine and coarse threaded 5/16" bolt. Use the appropriate bolt for how the specific alternator that came in your kit is threaded. If your alternator has threads in its mounting ear, use a lock washer and a flat washer on the bolt and thread it into the alternator from the backside. If your alternator does not have threads in the lower mounting ear, then use a flat washer on both sides, with a lock washer and a nut on the end. Leave both alternator mounting bolts finger-tight. They will be tightened in a later step when serpentine the belt is installed.

Figure 22 25. On the back of the generator you removed a larger diameter wire (yellow) with a large female spade connector and a smaller diameter wire (yellow/ green) with a smaller female spade connector. On the back of the alternator, there are two larger-style terminals and one 1/4" smaller style terminal in a row. You can plug the spade connector from the larger diameter solid yellow wire into either one of the larger terminals on the back of the alternator. You will need to plug the spade connector from the smaller diameter yellow-with-green-stripe wire into the smaller 1/4" terminal on the back of the alternator. If your connectors are missing or damaged, we have provided two spade connectors in the kit. Figure 25.

23. Slide a flat washer over the 4" long 5/16" alternator mounting bolt. Set the provided alternator into place and run the 5/16" bolt through the upper ear of the alternator, through the tensioner plate, through the upper alternator mounting bracket and past the other ear of the alternator. The rear ear of the alternator has an adjustable bushing built into it and that bushing may need to be adjusted to properly fit the alternator to the alternator bracket. Then slide a washer & lock washer and thread a nut onto the long 5/16" bolt. Figure 23. Figure 25

Figure 23

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26. Since the generator has been replaced with an alternator, we can convert the voltage regulator into a junction box to connect the necessary wires for the alternator conversion. Since we replaced the generator with the internally regulated alternator, the voltage regulator (or generator control box) is no longer needed and must be bypassed. For these instructions we use the voltage regulator as a junction box to connect wires. You can get rid of it completely if you desire (for a cleaner look). For more information on the alternator conversion, see mossmotors. com and search for part number 130-058. Read the instructions and watch that video found on the page. If you wish to keep the voltage regulator in the car simply continue on with these instructions. Remove the large diameter solid yellow wire from terminal Figure 27 cont. "D" at the regulator. Attach the yellow wire to the "A" terminal. This is the alternator "charging" wire. See 28. Remove the solenoid using a Phillips figure 27. screwdriver (and a helper inside the car holding a 7/16" or 3/8" wrench if your car does not have 27. Remove the yellow-with-green-stripe wire from the captive nuts). Place the starter solenoid relocation voltage regulator terminal "F". This was the "F" or plate in the area where the starter solenoid was. Drop field wire for the generator and is now the indicator two 1/4" fine thread bolts into the two large holes in light wire for the alternator. the starter solenoid relocation plate. Slide a larger fender-style 1/4" flat washer and a 1/4" lock washer Remove the yellow wire (thin gauge) from terminal over each of the two bolts from inside the car. Then "D" at the regulator. This is the ignition warning light thread on two 1/4" fine thread nuts (this will be easier or charge warning light wire. Place a male 16 gauge with a helper). Use a 7/16" deep socket and a 7/16" (blue) spade connector on one of the wires and a combination wrench to tighten the bolts and nuts. female 16 gauge (blue) spade on the other wire using Figure 28. a crimping tool. Connect the yellow and yellow/green wires together with the spades. The ignition or charge warning light should operate just as it did with the generator. Figure 27.

Figure 28

Figure 27

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30. If you had a positive ground car, you will need to take the battery out and rotate it around 180 degrees so that the positive side of the battery is closest to the starter solenoid and the negative side is closest to the ground strap. Hook the lead from the starter solenoid to the positive side of the battery. Leave the ground strap leading to the negative side of the battery disconnected at this time. Figure 30.

Figure 28 cont.

Figure 30

31. Attach the firewall throttle bracket to the firewall using the existing holes near the starter. The order of components (under hood side first) should be 5/16 fine thread bolt, flat washer, firewall throttle bracket, 29. Attach the starter solenoid to the starter solenoid the firewall 5/16" fender washer (7/8" outer diameter), relocation plate using provided 8-32 x 0.50" bolts, lock washer and nut. Finger tighten the bolts. including a flat washer and a lock washer on each Figure 31. bolt. You may have to loosen the connections on the starter solenoid in order to rotate it so that the terminal connection points face the battery. Once the starter solenoid has been bolted down, retighten the connections. Figure 29.

Figure 31

Figure 29

Part # 150-128 -9- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

Figure 33

Figure 31 cont.

32. Use axle grease to lube the throttle cable generously. Do not remove the cable from the housing, because it is very difficult or impossible to get the cable back in. Just put the grease on the exposed cable and run 34. Move the firewall throttle cable bracket so that the it back and forth several times to ensure the entire throttle cable trunnion and bracket are aligned and cable is greased. If this step is skipped the throttle there is a straight shot from the mounted trunnion pedal will be notchy. to the throttle cable sheathing. Once the cable is aligned, then tighten the two 5/16" bolts of the 33. Now install the 90° end of the throttle cable into throttle cable bracket to 19 ft-lbs. the firewall throttle cable bracket. Put a flat washer on a 1/4"-28 x 1.00"bolt. Slip the bolt through the horseshoe trunnion on the end of the throttle cable. Thread the bolt into the firewall-mounted throttle linkage cross tube just enough that the threads of the provided Nyloc nut will engage the threads of the bolt. Making sure that the Nyloc is engaged on the threads, tighten the Nyloc nut so that the bolt cannot spin. NOTE: the horseshoe trunnion should still be free to rotate on the bolt after the Nyloc nut has been tightened. Figure 33.

Figure 34

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35. Adjust the 90° end of the throttle cable to the far end of its adjustment so that it is as far away from the firewall as it can be adjusted. Then use two 7/16 combination wrenches to tighten the nuts on the throttle cable so that the 90° section of the cable is facing downward toward the ground.

36. Fuel pump installation: Apply Teflon tape or sealer to the provided 5/16" 90° fitting. Use 1/2" and 9/16" combination wrenches to attach the 90° fitting to the provided fuel pump from the kit, opposite the end. Apply Teflon tape to the straight 5/16" Figure 37 cont. fitting and attach it to the fuel filter side. Attach a provided 3/8" ring terminal to the black wire of the fuel pump. Then put a female spade connector on the light brown wire of the fuel pump. See figure 37.

37. Remove the right rear wheel. Use a 9/16" combination wrench and a 9/16" socket, 6 inch extension and a ratchet to remove the rear Armstrong shock bolt and nut. Then put the cylindrical fuel pump bracket from the fuel pump box around the body of the fuel pump. Slide the Armstrong bolt through the bracket, through the ring terminal on the black wire of the fuel pump, through the chassis and through the Armstrong shock. Now reinstall the nut. The filter on the fuel pump should be pointing down and perhaps slightly to the rear in an optimal configuration, but it can positioned anywhere near the using 38. Cut a 16" length of provided fuel hose. Slide two an existing bolt or a self-tapping screw. Ensure that hose clamps over one end of the hose and one hose fuel lines and wires have sufficient length to prevent clamp over the other end of the hose. Install the end tugging at the connections. Make sure the inlet is of the fuel hose with the two clamps on the hard line lower than the outlet. Figure 37. coming from the fuel tank. Install the end of the hose with the one clamp onto the fuel filter side of the fuel pump. Tighten all clamps. Figure 38.

Figure 37 Figure 38

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39. Take the remainder of the provided fuel line and run it 43. Plug the female spade from the fuse holder onto from the 90° fitting on the top of the fuel pump along the male terminal #30 of the relay. Then plug female the right-hand chassis frame rail up to the engine spade connector from the yellow 18 gauge wire onto compartment. Follow the path of the brake line. Avoid male terminal #85 of the relay. Then plug female anything sharp and go through rubber grommets spade connector from the black 18 gauge wire onto when possible. male terminal #86 of the relay. Figure 43.

40. Attach a male spade to the end of the provided 154 inch long 14 gauge red wire. Connect the male spade to the female spade on the brown wire of the fuel pump. Run the red wire next to the path of the fuel line all the way up to the engine compartment. Make sure that there are no sharp edges that could cut the wire. Zip tie the red wire and the fuel hose to the undercarriage of the chassis and frame, but leave the hose and wire free in the engine compartment. Figure 40.

Figure 43

44. Remove the bolt just below the turn signal flasher, located right next to the voltage regulator. Slide the bolt through the eyehole on the relay and attach it back into place on the car. Attach the black wire to Figure 40 a nearby chassis ground. This will serve as the fuel pump relay ground. See figure 47. 41. Replace the right rear wheel and torque the lug nuts to factory spec. 45. Route the red 14 gauge fuel pump power wire up from under the chassis to the fuel pump relay. Secure 42. Locate the provided relay and fuse holder in the kit. If it to the car using the provided zip ties for a clean it is not already there, plug the provided 5 amp fuse installation, taking care to avoid any sharp edges. into the fuse holder. Attach a blue (14 gauge) female Trim the end of the red 14 gauge fuel pump power spade connector to one end of the fuse holder. wire to length so that it stops at the relay location. Attach a red (18 gauge) female spade connector onto Attach a 14 gauge female spade to the red fuel pump the end of the 8 inch yellow wire. Attach a red (18 power wire. Then plug the 14 gauge female spade gauge) female spade to one end of the 5 inch black connector on the red fuel pump power wire into wire and a 18 gauge 5/16" ring terminal to the other terminal #87 on the relay. See figure 47. end. Figure 42. 46. Strip 1/4" of insulation off of the yellow 18 gauge wire. There are two fuses just below the voltage regulator. The fuse closest to the battery has several green wires on one terminal and several white wires exiting the other terminal. This fuse is key-on voltage. Use a flat screwdriver to loosen one the of the screws where the green wires are attached, insert the yellow 18 gauge wire and retighten the screw. See figure 47.

47. Strip 1/4" of insulation off of the free end of the fuse holder. Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen the A terminal screw on the voltage regulator. Insert the wire and then turn the terminal screw. In step 26 we Figure 42 gave the alternative to remove the voltage regulator

Part # 150-128 -12- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

completely. If you have done so, attach the fuse wire to "BAT" wire from alternator (solder) or directly to the battery positive post (wire extension and ring terminal is not supplied in this kit). Figure 47.

Figure 48 cont.

49. Route the throttle cable down towards the starter, back up towards the firewall and then up in between the throttle lever and the side of the firewall. The Figure 47 cable should be pointing up toward the hood. Figure 49. 48. Make sure the provided intake manifold is clean and clear of debris. If machining debris is present, wash the manifold in hot soapy water. Use the stock intake manifold hardware to install the provided supercharger intake manifold. Make sure that all of the clamps, washers and nuts are all started on the studs before tightening down any of them. It will be easiest to start with the two bottom clamps, washers and nuts. Then install all of the rest before tightening them all to 30 ft-lbs. You will need a 9/16" combination wrench, a 9/16" swivel socket (or U-joint and socket) and a 6" extension. You may need to use the supplied shims on your manifold/header so that the manifold clamps tighten down evenly against Figure 49 the intake and exhaust. Use super glue to attach the shims in the appropriate places if necessary. Note: you may need different thickness shims for the upper and lower studs depending on your particular manifold/header. Figure 48.

Shim

Figure 48

Part # 150-128 -13- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

50. Gather the supercharger assembly, the intake manifold to supercharger gasket, four M8 x 20mm bolts, four M8 lock washers and four M8 flat washers. Slide the lock washers and then the flat washers over the bolts. Lay the gasket into place over the bolts. Hold the supercharger assembly in place while threading in the top two M8 bolts, each with a lock washer and flat washer in between the bolt head and intake manifold. Then thread in the bottom two bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20 ft-lbs. Figure 50.

Figure 52

53. Find the provided serpentine belt. The belt runs from the crank pulley up to the idler pulley that is just below the water pump, around the water pump pulley under the tensioner pulley, up to and around the supercharger pulley, down to the idler pulley, down to the alternator pulley and back to the crank pulley. You may need to loosen the tensioner pulley so that the belt can be installed on all of the pulleys. Also, if you ever have to use a longer belt, extra Figure 50 length can be taken up by loosening the alternator and rotating it. With the belt in place, finger tighten 51. Separate the cap of the supercharger nose support the center tensioner pulley bolt. Run the jam nut up assy. Attach the lower supercharger support to the the tensioning bolt. Tighten the tensioning bolt, thus front side of the tensioner plate. Use two 5/16" x 1" tightening the belt, until spinning the water pump fine thread bolts, a 5/16" flat washer, then have the pulley by hand also turns the crank and accessories. blower nose support, then have another 5/16" flat Now using a 17mm combination wrench to tighten washer, a 5/16 lock washer and a 5/16" nut. Torque the jam nut of the tensioner and pulley bolt. Figure 53.

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS DRAWING IS THE SOLE PROPERTY OF the 5/16" bolts to 19 ft-lbs. Figure 51. MOSS MOTORS. ANY REPRODUCTION IN PART OR WHOLE WITHOUT THE WRITTEN PERMISSION OF MOSS MOTORS IS PROHIBITED.

F F

E E

D D

C C

Figure 51

B B

52. Install the cap of the supercharger nose support assembly using two 1/4" Allen head fine thread cap MOSS MOTORS MANUFACTURING

PART NAME SHEET PART NUMBER screws. Torque the bolts to 10 ft-lbs. Figure 52. A C ___?______?___ A MATERIAL CREATION DATE REVISION ___?______?___ ORIGINAL

FINISH DRAWN BY REVISION DATE ___?___ DAVID WILLIAMS

UNITS PHONE NUMBER REVISED BY INCHES (805) 679-7032 Figure 53 TOLERANCE SCALE FILE PAGE X.XXX+/-0.005 X.XX+/-0.010 1-1 ___?___ 1 OF 1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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54. Remove one of the jam nuts from the free end of the throttle cable. Run the other jam nut to the center of the threads. Insert the cable through the throttle cable bracket attached to the bottom of the carburetor. Reinstall the jam nut. Run the throttle cable around the bell crank and into the throttle cable anchor. Do not tighten the throttle cable anchor yet. Figure 54.

Figure 55

Figure 54

56. Have an assistant sit in the car and gently press the pedal down until it stops moving. Confirm that the throttle has opened completely by placing your thumb on the bell crank and pushing down the linkage. Adjust if necessary. Once the pedal height is set, adjust the throttle stop on the firewall below the throttle pedal so that when the throttle pedal is fully depressed against the throttle stop, the throttle is fully wide open at the carburetor. Now fully tighten the throttle cable anchor.

57. Find the fuel pressure regulator provided in the kit. It is preset to 4.5 psi. Find the fuel line that was run under the car in previous steps. It will likely be lying in the engine compartment or under the car. Use the 4 self-tapping screws to install the fuel pressure 55. Pull the throttle cable through the anchor tightly so regulator to the chassis, anywhere in the fuel line after that the throttle linkage on the vehicles firewall is the fuel pump, preferably in the engine compartment, close to the firewall throttle cable bracket. Then go but out of harm’s way. Run the fuel line from the inside the car and set the pedal height right about pump to the "In" side of the regulator cutting the fuel where you want it to be. We recommend setting it an line as necessary. Run the remaining fuel line from inch lower than the brake pedal so that when braking the "Out" side of the regulator to the fitting on the the throttle pedal is not too high. Once the throttle float bowl of the carburetor. Use hose clamps on all height is set, use two 7mm combination wrenches attachment points. Use the remaining provided zip- to gently tighten the anchor to the throttle cable just ties to attach the fuel hose to the chassis, allowing enough to hold it in place. Do not fully tighten at this some slack to account for engine rock. Figure 57. point. Figure 55.

Part # 150-128 -15- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

Out

In Figure 61

Figure 57 62. Fill the dashpot with the supplied 80-90 weight oil until it is about 1/4" from the top of the dashpot, NOT from the top of the "milk can". 58. Run the hose on the distributor’s vacuum advance to NOTE: We have provided more oil than it will take the "Tee" fitting that lies between the supercharger to fill the dashpot. Do not overfill. If you do overfill, bypass diaphragm and the carburetor mounting you can use the dampener assembly and a rag to plate. You will find 5/32" rubber hose in the kit for this scoop the oil out. purpose. 63. Reinstall your RH-side horn using the stock hardware. 59. Connect your stock choke cable to the underside of the carburetor. Run the cable through the choke and tighten the cable through the cable anchor that is attached to the fixed bracket on the underside of the carburetor.

60. Find the 30" long float camber overflow tube in the kit. The tube is provided the so that overflow can be routed away from the exhaust. Remove the small piece of hose from atop the float chamber. Install the 30" over flow tube in its place. You will need to bend the tube yourself. Make sure the tube never goes higher than the top of the float bowl. Use a tubing bender or bend it over a round object to keep it from kinking.

61. Obtain 12" of provided heater hose. Slide a clamp onto each end. Connect one end to the bulkhead fitting at the firewall and the other onto the cut heater control valve pipe. Trim to fit. Figure 63

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64. Reinstall the radiator fan on to the fan hub extension. 71. Turn off the vehicle and let it cool down. Top off all fluid levels. Check your work and make sure there 65. Reinstall the radiator and its hoses. is nothing loose, and that the throttle is operating correctly and retuning to fully closed. Make sure the 66. Fill the cooling system with a proper 50/50 mixture of fuel hose, throttle and choke cables are not rubbing antifreeze and distilled water. We recommend using on any sharp edges or being stretched or damaged Red Line waterwetter moss part # 220-115. Fill the by engine rock. fuel tank with 91 US octane RON+MON/2 fuel (or higher if available). Connect the negative chassis 72. Reinstall the front apron and bumper. Remember ground to the negative side of the battery. Turn the to reconnect the electrical connections for the key on to prime the fuel system. Check for any leaks. headlights and turn signals. If there are no leaks present, turn the ignition key back off and lower the vehicle to the ground. Make 73. Test drive the vehicle. Check for detonation or sure the right rear wheel is properly torqued. pinging. If any detonation occurs, retard the timing in 2 degree increments until it is completely gone. 67. Install the supplied spark plugs. We recommend using anti-seize compound on the threads. The gap 74. The base supercharger kit with the 5.87" crank pulley is .035". We highly recommend installing new spark and the 2.67" supercharger pulley should produce plug wires, points, condenser and the cap and rotor – 5 to 6 psi of intake manifold pressure or "boost". all readily available from Moss Motors. You will use a This is on a stock 2.2L (86mm ) with a stock 13/16" socket on the new plugs. exhaust manifold. If you have the smaller 2.0L (83mm pistons) and no engine or exhaust modifications you 68. If your vehicle was a + (positive) ground (earth) car will probably have more boost. If you have a larger at the beginning of this install, you need to follow the pistons, cam and or exhaust manifolds you will instruction on converting to – (negative) ground (earth) have less boost. Simply adding a header and large found at the end of these instruction (page 21). When diameter exhaust may cause the boost to drop 1 psi you have completed the rewiring of your components, or more. This does not mean you are losing horse return to and complete these instructions. power, it just means the engine is breathing better. We offer a "big boost" supercharger pulley for those 69. There are two vacuum ports on the intake manifold who wish to run more boost. provided for your convenience, do not remove rubber caps unless used. Start the engine. Let it warm up and check for coolant leaks and proper thermostat operation. The car should start and idle. Slight adjustments may be necessary for your particular application. However, the safe, rich base tune should be near ideal for most . That said, here are the original settings in case you adjust the settings and want to go back to stock. As delivered, the idle air bleed screw should be just over 3.5 turns out. The throttle stop screw should just be touching the throttle stop, just slightly opening the blade by 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn. Having set the jet to be flush with the bottom of the carburetor, turn the idle mixture screw 3.5 turns down. Backing the mixture screw out will lean the mixture.

70. Once the car is warm, check the ignition timing to make sure that the crank pulley has been installed correctly and the timing mark lines up properly with the timing mark. Note that if you are unable to get the timing light to highlight the timing mark by a large margin, you may have installed the crank pulley off by 60 degrees, 120 degrees or 180 degrees.

Part # 150-128 -17- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

Converting your Triumph from Positive to Negative Ground

1. If you have an original radio, remove it. It will no longer work with negative ground.

2. If you have an ammeter, you’ll need to reverse the wires connected to it.

3. Some may have a diode across the points rather than a condenser. Reverse the connections to the diode.

4. Reverse the connections going to the : Connect the (-) side of the coil to the wire going to the distributor and the (+) side of the coil to the wire going to the ignition switch.

5. Reverse the connections to the heater fan motor. If you don’t, the fan motor will rotate backwards.

That’s it! It is not necessary to change the leads at the starter motor. The starter uses a series-wound motor that will always rotate the correct way with either polarity. Bill of Materials for 150-128

SUPERCHARGER & MANIFOLD,TR3 SC Part # Description Qty 053-280 S/C GEN4 MP45CW, 4.09 IN NOSE 1 051-207 SCREW, AHCS, M8 X 1.25 X 25 4 053-261 CARB, SU HD8, MOSS MODIFIED 1 370-185 BANJO, SINGLE PUSH-ON, BRASS 1 051-127 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 20 4 051-075 WASHER, LOCK, M8 4 051-074 WASHER, FLAT, M8 4 053-239 ADAPTER, HD8 TO MP45, TR3 SC 1 771-490 HOSE BARB, 1/4 VACUUM 1 771-642 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-24 X 1 2 053-222 INTAKE MANIFOLD,MACHINED,TR4SC 1 051-142 HOSE BARB, 5/32 VACUUM 2 051-151 CAP, VACUUM, RUBBER, 5/32 3 051-719 O-RING, VITON, NO. 202 1 051-720 O-RING, VITON, NO. 218 1 051-438 SPRING, AFPR 1 770-572 VALVE BODY, POP-OFF 1 770-573 RETAINER, SPRING 1 770-576 STUD, POP-OFF VALVE 1 770-577 NUT, NYLOC, 1/4 UNF 1 052-834 INLET GASKET, MP45 & MP62 GEN4 1 052-835 OUTLET GASKET, MP45 GEN4 1 052-840 GASKET, HIF44 TO MANIFOLD 1 051-389 TEE, VACUUM, 3/16 1 051-551 HOSE, VACUUM, 7/32 IN., BULK 10

Part # 150-128 -18- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

SUPERCHARGER & MANIFOLD,TR3 SC Continued Part # Description Qty 051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 4 052-247 STUD, 5/16 UNC, 1.25" LONG OA 4 051-446 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNC 4 051-587 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16 IN 6 053-237 FILTER, W/PLATE, MACHINED, HD8 1 051-588 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 IN., SAE 4 052-339 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNF 2 053-238 BRACKET,CARB TO THROTTLE CABLE 1 053-251 RETURN SPRING BRACKET, TR3 1 053-282 THROTTLE SPRING, TR3-4 SC 1 053-269 GASKET, HD8, CORK,0.15IN THICK 1 771-369 WASHER, FLAT, M5 5 276-055 ABUTMENT, CHOKE CABLE 1 375-108 STOP ASSY,CABLE,W/NUT & WASHER 1 310-760 NUT, HEX, 1/4 UNF, G5, ZINC 1 324-590 WASHER, FLAT, 1/4 ID, ZINC 1 370-887 STOP, CABLE 1 325-251 COTTER PIN, 1/16 X 3/4 2 053-254 PULLEY, TR3-TR4 SC, 2.67 1

HARDWARE BAG, TR3 SC Part # Description Qty 220-136 REMOVABLE THREADLOCKER, BLUE 1 323-165 SCREW, 8-32 X 1/2, CHR 2 772-849 LOCKWASHER, ZINC, #8 2 315-150 WASHER, FLAT, #8 2 772-270 BOLT, HEX, 1/4-28 X 0.75,GRD-8 2 770-787 WASHER, FENDER 2 770-812 NUT, STANDARD, 1/4-28 2 052-277 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.14 THICK 6 052-278 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.06 THICK 6 052-279 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.03 THICK 6 052-280 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.02 THICK 6 051-583 WASHER, LOCK, 1/4 IN 6 310-760 NUT, HEX, 1/4 UNF, G5, ZINC 6 052-321 BOLT, HEX, 1/4-28 X 1 2 053-209 STARTER SOLENOID RELOC PLATE 1 322-040 BOLT, 5/16 UNF X 3/4 2 770-774 WASHER, FENDER, .313X1.25X.125 2 770-577 NUT, NYLOC, 1/4 UNF 2

Part # 150-128 -19- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

HARDWARE BAG, TR3 SC Continued Part # Description Qty 324-590 WASHER, FLAT, 1/4 ID, ZINC 2 320-080 BOLT, 1/4 UNF X 1 3/8 6 451-250 PIPE, FLOAT CHAMBER OVERFLOW 1

BELT TENSIONING SYSTEM Part # Description Qty 053-287 TOP PLATE, BLACK, TR4 SC 1 053-248 TENSIONER PLATE, POWDERCOATED 1 320-555 BOLT, 5/16 UNC X 1 1/4 1 051-588 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 IN., SAE 6 051-587 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16 IN 3 053-218 BELT TENSION BLOCK, TR4 SC 1 771-643 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-24 X 1.25 2 322-075 BOLT, 3/8 UNF X 1 1/2 3 772-826 NUT, 3/8-24, GRADE 8, ZINC 3 052-904 TENSIONER, T-NUT, MIATA MP62 1 051-627 PULLEY, 2.0IN IDLER, NYLON 3 320-275 BOLT, 3/8 UNF X 3, G3 2 324-385 WASHER, FLAT, 3/8 ID, ZINC 5 324-040 WASHER, LOCK, SQ CX, 3/8 IN 5 310-050 NUT, HEX, 3/8 UNF, G5, ZINC 2 051-217 BOLT, HEX, M10 X 1.50 X 60 1 051-215 SPACER, SHOULDER 3 053-246 TENSIONER SPACER, TR4 SC 1 053-247 IDLER STAND, TR4 SC 2 053-249 TENSIONER PLATE STANDOFF,TR4SC 1 322-225 BOLT, 7/16 UNF X 2 1/2 1 324-905 WASHER, FLAT, 7/16 SAE G8 2 324-250 WASHER, LOCK, 7/16 IN 1 310-300 NUT, HEX, 7/16 UNF, G8, ZINC 1 052-922 NUT, JAM, M10 X 1.5 1 052-924 BOLT, M10 X 1.5 X 60, HEX HEAD 1 052-610 BLOWER NOSE SUPPORT CROWN 1 052-628 SCREW, 1/4-28 X 1.25, AHCS 2 053-243 SC NOSE SUPPORT CRADLE, TR3/4 1 052-339 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNF 2

Part # 150-128 -20- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

ENGINE MOUNTED HARDWARE Part # Description Qty 053-205 WATER PUMP PULLEY, TR4 SC 1 697-080 GASKET, WATER PUMP 1 835-072 WATER PUMP,STANDARD W/O PULLEY 1 052-252 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-18 X 1.0 1 051-588 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 IN., SAE 7 051-587 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16 IN 3 053-219 ALTERNATOR BRACKET, TR4 SC 1 322-870 BOLT, 5/16 UNC X 3/4 4 052-095 PULLEY, ALTERNATOR, 4-RIB 1 130-102 ALTERNATOR,18ACR, 45AMP, NEW 1 322-150 BOLT, 5/16 UNF X 5 1 052-339 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNF 2 771-643 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-24 X 1.25 1 315-205 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 ID, 7/8 OD 1 770-591 NUT, NYLOC, M8 X 1.25 1

FUEL PUMP KIT, ELECTRIC Part # Description Qty 052-649 FUEL PUMP, ELECTRIC 1 832-550 PLATE, FUEL PUMP BLOCK OFF 1 697-100 GASKET, FUEL PUMP 1 051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 10 051-101 RELAY, 12V, 30A, SPST 1 771-992 CAP SCREW, 1/4-20 X 1.0, ZINC 2 051-583 WASHER, LOCK, 1/4 IN 2 324-590 WASHER, FLAT, 1/4 ID, ZINC 2 772-331 SCREW, #8-18, SELF DRILL&TAP 1 051-474 HOSE, FUEL, 5/16, BULK 122 051-191 CLAMP, HOSE, MINI, SAE NO. 4 10 052-343 FUEL FILTER, FOR 1/4 IN HOSE 1 770-889 WIRE, BLACK, 18 GA. 5 772-335 WIRE, 14 GAGE, RED 154 771-276 WIRE, YELLOW, 18 GA., BULK 8 052-078 FUSE HOLDER, 12 GA, INLINE 1 772-336 FUSE, 5 AMP 1 051-387 SPADE CON, FEMALE, 18-22 GA 8 051-395 SPADE CON, MALE, 18-22 GA 5 052-651 RING CONN,18-22GA,5/16STUD 1 772-848 RING TERMINAL, 3/8 TO 16GA 2

Part # 150-128 -21- Modified 04/17 Installation Instructions

FUEL PUMP KIT, ELECTRIC Continued Part # Description Qty 161-615 CONN, FEMALE SPADE, 16-14 GA. 10 161-620 CONN, MALE SPADE, 16-14 GA. 10 051-212 HOSE BARB,1/8NPT X 5/16 X90DEG 2 771-467 WIRE, BROWN, 16 GAUGE 3 053-294 FUEL PRESSURE REG SET 4.5PSI 1 053-292 3/8 MALE PIPE TO 5/16 HOSEBARB 2 053-293 3/8 MALE PIPE PLUG, BRASS 1

OTHER HARDWARE

Part # Description Qty 053-256 CRANK PULLEY, 5.87, TR4 SC 1 053-253 BRACKET, THROTTLE CABLE 1 053-281 BELT, BANDO K060663, 1685 1 052-337 OIL, SAE 90 WEIGHT 2 052-336 BOTTLE, FLUID, 2 OZ 1 053-286 , NGK BP7HS 4 051-257 HOSE, HEATER, 1/2 IN., BULK 12 051-259 HOSE, VACUUM, 5/32 IN., BULK 60 053-241 CABLE, THROTTLE 1 540-280 PLUG KIT, ALTERNATOR 1 695-070 GASKET, MANIFOLD, PAIR, HP 1 053-151 INSTRUCTIONS, TR3 SC 1

Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and clarity of this information, any suggestions that you may have that will improve the information (especially detailed installation notes and photos) are welcome. These instructions were developed and written by Moss Technical Support. If you have any questions or difficulties with your installation of this product, telephone 800-667-7872 between 7:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m., Pacific Time for assistance. Moss Motors, Ltd. Moss Europe Ltd. 440 Rutherford Street, Goleta, California 93117 Hampton Farm Industrial Estate In the US & Canada Toll Free (800) 667-7872 Hampton Road West, Hanworth Middlesex, TW13 6DB LOCAL (805) 681-3400 FAX (805) 692-2510 In the UK: 020-8867-2020 FAX: 020-8867-2030

Part # 150-128 -22- Modified 04/17