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Kit Installation Instructions Triumph TR4 & TR4A PART# 150-138 440 Rutherford St. Goleta, CA 93117 1-800-642-8295 • FAX 805-692-2525 • www.MossMotors.com

Tools required: • TR4 Shop manual • Wire cutters, strippers and crimpers • Strap wrench • Side cutters (dikes) • Thread sealer or Teflon tape • 1/4", 3/8", & 1/2" ratchets • Masking tape • 3" and 6" extensions for above ratchets • Drill motor • Combination wrenches and sockets in the following sizes: • 1/4" drill bit • 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 17mm • Phillips screwdrivers • 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", • Flat-blade screwdrivers 3/4", 15/16", 1-1/8" • Torque wrench up to 65 ft-lbs • 9/16" swivel socket or universal joint • 3/16" Allen wrench • 13/16" socket • Hack saw or cut-off wheel Figures may vary from actual components. empty or by draining the tank before beginning supercharger installation. Never smoke or work You must have a shop manual to complete this around open flames. install. These instructions focus on the installation of this supercharger system and not disassembly of If your is + (positive) ground (earth), we will be the stock . Refer to the shop manual for more converting it to – (negative) ground (earth) during detail on disassembly or components having to do this install. You must follow the extra steps in the with a stock vehicle, i.e. torque specs, wiring, hose/ back of these instructions on how to rewire various cable routing, etc... Read and understand these components to work with – (negative) ground (earth). instructions before picking up a tool. If you do not feel 100% confident in your ability to install this kit, Note: Your engine should be in good mechanical pay a professional to do it for you. Moss Motors may condition and should have a recent tune up. It be able to recommend a shop in your area. should have good compression in all cylinders. Your should also be in good condition. Vehicle shown in most of the illustrations is a TR3 We sent our distributor out to be checked. We with a steering rack conversion and an electric had 10 degrees of mechanical advance for every conversion. Although the pictures do not look 1000rpm, with total mechanical advance of 28 identical to your vehicle, they are more than adequate degrees coming in by 3000-3200 rpm. Your engine for this install. Focus on the parts that look similar to mounts should be in good condition. Replace your car, rather than the differences. them if they are not. Excessive engine rock can cause damage to you, your vehicle, or the During installation, we will be changing fuel lines. supercharger. Also, after installation, the will need to always be refilled with 91 octane fuel. So, empty the fuel tank either by running the car close to

Part # 150-138 -1- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

1. Use a to check total timing advance. Rev 9. Remove the manifold with the your engine until the timing stops moving. This is your attached. Set aside the intake manifold attachment total advance. All of your advance should be in before clamps and nuts for later reuse. If necessary, replace 3500rpm. Take note of the total timing number and the intake/ . This would RPM it was achieved at. Then rotate your distributor require removing and replacing the exhaust manifold to achieve 30 degrees total advance. On our car, this as well. A new gasket set is provided. Figure 9. was achieved at ~1 degree base timing.

2. Disconnect both battery cables. NOTE: Before installing this kit, your car will need to be or be converted to a negative ground.

3. Place the vehicle on jack stands to allow access to the underside of the car.

4. Remove the hood and the radiator shroud, referring to the shop manual. Removal of the hood is not necessary but will make working on the car easier. Figure 4.

Figure 9

10. Remove the accelerator pedal return spring. Do not skip this step. If left in place the return spring could cause the to stick. Figure 10.

Figure 4

5. Drain the cooling system. Remove the radiator by disconnecting the top and bottom hoses. Release the bolts on either side at the base of the unit and release the tie rods at the top.

6. Remove the cooling fan using a 7/16" socket.

7. Use a screwdriver to remove the inlet fuel line from the . Then remove the fuel line to the mechanical fuel and then remove the Figure 10 mechanical . 11. Disconnect the two wires at the back of the 8. Disconnect the choke cable. Remove the throttle generator. Loosen all of the generator bolts and linkage at the firewall-mounted throttle linkage cross the generator link bolt. Remove the . Remove tube. Then remove the hose from the distributor’s the generator link and the generator. The generator vacuum advance diaphragm. hardware will not be reused. Figure 11.

Part # 150-138 -2- Modified 02/18 Figure 4

Installation Instructions

Figure 11 Figure 12

13. Use a strap wrench and a 3/4" combination wrench to remove the water pump pulley nut. Use a pulley puller if necessary. Then use a 9/16" socket and a 3/8" extension to remove the water pump mounting nuts. 14. Clean the gasket surfaces. Install a new water pump gasket and the provided water pump from the kit. Install the new water pump pulley, securing it into place with locknut that comes with the pump. Figure 14.

12. Use a 3/4 inch combination wrench and a 7/8" combination wrench to remove the generator mounting pedestal from the front engine plate. Use a 1/2 inch socket or combination wrench to remove the generator mounting bracket from the . Figure 12. Figure 14

Part # 150-138 -3- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

15. Use two 7/16" combination wrenches to loosen the 16. Install the six bolts through the rear side of the six fan hub extension retaining bolts. Use a 1-1/8" pulley. Slide the crank hub pulley over the bolts and socket to break the crank bolt loose. Rotate the into the recess on the front side of the crank pulley. crank until the on the crank pulley lines Slide the crank pulley/crank hub assembly over the up with the timing cover pointer. Remove the fan hub end of the crank shaft. NOTE: The timing tab will extension. Remove the crank pulley bolt, the crank have to be bent as necessary to clear the crank hub pulley and the two plates that make up the crank pulley. You should try to have at least 1/8" of pulley. It is critical that you align the timing mark with clearance between the timing tab and the crank the pulley before you remove the pulley. If you do pulley. Make sure the timing mark on the pulley not align the marks you may not be able to set your is aligned with the tab on the timing cover. If not, timing when this install is complete. Figure 15. remove the pulley from the hub and re-clock it so that it is. Again, this is critical for setting . Figure 16.

Figure 16

Figure 15

17. Reinstall the fan hub extension using the provided nuts and lock washers. Torque the nuts to 10 ft-lbs. Then install the crank pulley bolt.

Part # 150-138 -4- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

18. Bolt the tensioner plate assembly to the engine. For the 5/16" upper bolt, there will be the bolt, a lock washer, a flat washer, the tensioner plate and a washer on the back side of the idler plate followed by the water pump. For the 7/16" lower bolt, there will the bolt, then a flat washer, then the tensioner plate, the tensioner plate standoff (tall spacer), then the engine plate, a flat washer, a lock washer and a nut. Torque the 5/16" upper bolt to 17 ft-lbs. Torque the 7/16" lower bolt to 55 ft-lbs. Figure 18.

Figure 18 cont.

19. Some kits have the 4 rib serpentine belt pulley and fan installed. If your kit does, skip this step. Loosen the 7/8 inch or 22 millimeter nut on the provided . Install the provided alternator fan and alternator pulley onto the provided alternator. Then install the alternator nut. Tighten the nut to 45 ft-lb. You will need to hold the fan from turning while tightening the nut. We have had good luck holding the fan with a carefully positioned rag and using an impact to tighten the pulley. Figure 19.

Figure 18

Figure 19

Part # 150-138 -5- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

20. Mount the alternator bracket to the block with the bolts finger tight. Then insert the 4" long upper mounting bolt through the tensioner plate and the alternator mounting bracket. This will allow you to align the hole in the alternator bracket to the hole in the tensioner plate bracket. Push the alternator bracket forward so that the tube at the top of the alternator bracket is flush with the backside of the tensioner plate. Then tighten the three mounting bolts to 17 ft-lbs. The 4" long alternator mounting bolt should still slide freely with the bolts tightened. Now remove the bolt so that the alternator can be Figure 21 mounted into place using it. Figure 20. 22. For the bottom bolt on the alternator, we have supplied both a fine and coarse threaded 5/16 bolt. Use the appropriate bolt for how the specific alternator that came in your kit is threaded. If your alternator has threads in its mounting ear, use a lock washer and a flat washer on the bolt and thread it into the alternator from the backside. If your alternator does not have threads in the lower mounting ear, then use a flat washer on both sides, with a lock washer and a nut on the end. Leave both alternator mounting bolts finger-tight. They will be tightened at a later step when serpentine the belt is installed.

Figure 20 23. On the back of the generator you removed larger diameter wire (brown/yellow) with a large female spade connector and a smaller diameter wire (brown/ green) with a smaller female spade connector. On the back of the alternator, there are two larger-style terminals and one 1/4" smaller style terminal. You can plug the spade connector from the larger diameter brown/yellow wire into one of the larger terminals on the back of the alternator. You will need to plug the spade connector from the smaller diameter brown/ green wire into the smaller 1/4" terminal on the back of the alternator. If your connectors are missing or damaged, we have provided two spade connectors in the kit. Figure 23.

21. Slide a flat washer over the 4" long 5/16 alternator mounting bolt. Set the provided alternator into place and run the 5/16" bolt through the upper ear of the alternator, through the tensioner plate, through the upper alternator mounting bracket and past the other ear of the alternator. The rear ear of the alternator has an adjustable bushing built into it and that bushing may need to be adjusted to properly fit the alternator to the alternator bracket. Then slide a washer & lock washer and thread a nut onto the long 5/16" bolt. Figure 21.

Figure 23

Part # 150-138 -6- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

Figure 23 cont. Figure 25 cont. 24. Since we replaced the generator with the internally regulated alternator, the voltage regulator (or generator control box) is no longer needed and must be bypassed (or completely removed). For more information and a video on alternator conversion, please visit www.mossmotors.com and type 130- 058 into the search box. Remove the large diameter brown/yellow wire from terminal "D" at the regulator. Attach the larger diameter brown/yellow wire to the "A" terminal. This is the alternator "charging" wire. See Figure 25.

25. Remove the smaller brown/green wire from the voltage regulator terminal "F". This was the "F" or field wire for the generator and is now the indicator light wire for the alternator.

Remove the small diameter brown/yellow wire from 26. If you had a positive ground car, you will need to take terminal "D" at the regulator. This is the ignition the battery out and flip it around 180 degrees so that warning light or charge warning light wire. We supply the positive side of the battery is closest to the a small 3" brown wire and 2 blue, 16 gauge, male solenoid and the negative side is closest to the spade connectors. Strip 1/4" of insulation of each ground strap. Hook the lead from the starter solenoid end of the brown wire and crimp a spade on each to the positive side of the battery. NOTE: Leave the end. Use this brown jumper wire to connect the ground strap leading to the negative side of the brown green and brown/yellow wires together. The battery disconnected at this time. Figure 26. ignition or charge warning light should operate just as it did with the generator. Figure 25.

Figure 25 Figure 26

Part # 150-138 -7- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

27. Use axle grease to lube the throttle cable generously. 29. Use masking tape to cover the area the starter Do not remove the cable from the housing, because it solenoid bolts to and punch through the bolt holes. is very difficult or impossible to get the cable back in. Loosely install the firewall throttle bracket as pictured. Just put the grease on the exposed cable and run it Mark the location of the third hole on the masking back and forth several time to ensure the entire cable tape. Remove the bracket and drill the third hole is greased. If this step is skipped the throttle petal will through the firewall using a 1/4" drill bit. Remove be notchy. Figure 27. the masking tape. Reinstall the firewall bracket and starter solenoid on top of it using the supplied 10-32 x 1" screws washers and nuts.

30. Install the 90 degree end of the throttle cable onto the firewall throttle cable bracket as pictured. The cable should exit the bracket and point down toward the ground. The adjustment should be as far out as possible still allowing a secure fit. Figure 30.

Figure 27

Figure 30

31. The 90 degree end of the throttle cable should be installed on the firewall throttle cable bracket. Put a flat washer on a 1/4"-28 x 1.00 inch bolt. Slip the bolt through the horseshoe trunnion on the end of the throttle cable. Thread the bolt into the firewall- mounted throttle linkage cross tube just enough that the threads of the provided Nyloc nut will engage 28. Take note of how the starter solenoid is oriented on the threads of the bolt. Making sure that the Nyloc is the firewall. The button on the started solenoid should engaged on the threads, tighten the Nyloc nut so that be facing the engine and the cable terminals should the bolt cannot spin. NOTE: the horseshoe trunnion be facing the right side fender. If it is not, label and should still be free to rotate on the bolt after the Nyloc disconnect the cables and wires. turn the solenoid to nut has been tightened. Figure 31. the proper position and reinstall the cables. No need to reinstall the solenoid onto the firewall at this time. If your solenoid is already oriented correctly simply remove the starter solenoid from the firewall using a screwdriver (and a helper inside the car holding a 7/16" or 3/8" wrench if your car does not have captive nuts).

Part # 150-138 -8- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

33. Fuel pump installation: Apply Teflon tape or sealer to the provided 5/16" 90 degree fittings. Use 1/2" and 9/16" combination wrenches to attach the fittings to each end of the provided fuel pump from the kit so that they point in the same direction. Attach a provided 3/8" ring terminal to the black wire of the fuel pump. Then put a female spade connector on the light brown wire of the fuel pump. Figure 33.

Figure 33

34. Remove the left rear wheel. Use a 9/16" combination wrench and a 9/16" socket, 6 inch extension and a ratchet to remove the rear Armstrong shock bolt and nut. The bolt will be replaced with a 1" longer bolt to accommodate the 1" spacer. Then put the cylindrical Figure 31 fuel pump bracket from the fuel pump box around the body of the fuel pump. Slide the new 1" longer Armstrong bolt through the bracket, through the ring terminal on the black wire of the fuel pump, through the 1" spacer, through the chassis and through the Armstrong shock. Now install the supplied new 7/16" nut and lock washer. Torque to spec. The filter on the fuel pump should be pointing toward the rear of the car and slightly lower then the front (outlet) sided of the fuel pump. This will help keep air from being trapped in the pump. This is a suggested location of the fuel pump. You can mount it any where near the gas tank, to any existing bolt or use a self tapping screw. There should be plenty of fuel hose and electrical wire for different placement of the fuel pump. Make sure the inlet is lower than the outlet. Figure 34.

32. Adjust the 90-degree end of the throttle cable to the far end of its adjustment so that it is as far away from the firewall as it can be adjusted. Then use two 7/16 combination wrenches to tighten the nuts on the throttle cable so that the 90 degree section of the cable is facing downward toward the ground. See step 33. Figure 34

Part # 150-138 -9- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

39. holder in the kit. If it is not already there, plug the provided 5 amp fuse into the fuse holder. Attach a blue (14 gauge) female spade connector to one end of the fuse holder. Attach a red (18 gauge) female spade connector onto the end of the 8 inch yellow wire. Attach a red (18 gauge) female spade to one end of the 5 inch black wire and a 18 gauge 5/16" ring terminal to the other end. Figure 39.

Figure 34 cont.

Figure 39

40. Plug the female spade from the fuse holder onto the male terminal #30 of the relay. Then plug female spade connector from the yellow 18 gauge wire onto male terminal #85 of the relay. Then plug female 35. Cut a 14" length of provided fuel hose. Slide two spade connector from the black 18 gauge wire onto hose clamps over one end of the hose and one hose male terminal #86 of the relay. Figure 40. clamp over the other end of the hose. Install the end of the fuel hose with the two clamps on the hard line coming from the fuel tank. Install the end of the hose with the one clamp onto the side of the fuel pump. Tighten all clamps.

36. Take the remainder of the provided fuel line and run it from the 90 degree fitting on the outlet of the fuel pump along chassis frame rail up to the engine compartment. Avoid anything sharp and go through rubber grommets when possible.

37. Attach a male spade to the end of the provided 154 inch long 14 gauge red wire. Connect the male spade to the female spade on the brown wire of the fuel pump. Run the red wire next to the path of the fuel line all the way up to the engine compartment. NOTE: Make sure that there are no sharp edges that could cut the wire. Zip tie the red wire and the fuel Figure 40 hose to the undercarriage of the chassis and frame, but leave the hoses free in the engine compartment.

38. Replace the left rear wheel and torque the lug nuts to factory spec.

Part # 150-138 -10- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

41. You need to find a place to mount the fuel pump 45. Make sure the provided intake manifold is clean relay. You can use an existing bolt, stud or hole in and clear of debris. If machining debris is present, the body of the car or use a self tapping screw. The wash the manifold in hot soapy water. Use the stock relay must be located next to; chassis ground, key intake manifold hardware to install the provided on voltage, constant voltage (battery +) and the fuel supercharger intake manifold. Make sure that all of the pump power wire. We positioned ours in between the clamps, washers and nuts are all started on the studs fuse box and the voltage regulator (generator control before tightening down any of them. It will be easiest box). Attach the black wire to a nearby chassis to start with the two bottom clamps, washers and ground. This will serve as the fuel pump relay ground. nuts. Then install all of the rest before tightening them Figure 41. all to 30 ft-lbs. You will need a 9/16" combination wrench, a 9/16" swivel socket (or U-joint and socket) and a 6" extension. You may need to use the supplied shims on your manifold/header so that the manifold clamps tighten down evenly against the intake and exhaust. Use super glue to attach the shims in the appropriate places if necessary. Note: you may need different thickness shims for the upper and lower studs depending on your particular manifold/header. Figure 45.

Figure 41

42. Route the red 14 gauge fuel pump power wire up from under the chassis to the fuel pump relay. Secure it to the car using the provided zip ties for a clean installation, taking care to avoid any sharp edges. Trim the end of the red 14 gauge fuel pump power wire to length so that it stops at the relay location. Attach a Shim 14 gauge female spade to the red fuel pump power wire. Then plug the 14 gauge female spade connector on the red fuel pump power wire into terminal number 87# on the relay. Figure 45 43. Strip 1/4" of insulation off of the yellow 18 gauge wire and attach a red (18gauge) female spade connector. There are two fuses in the factory fuse holder. One of the fuses has several green wires on one side of the fuse. Attach the 18 gauge yellow wire to one of the free terminals at this side of the fuse. This is key-on voltage.

44. Strip 1/4" of insulation off of the free end of the fuse holder and attach a blue (16gauge) female spade connector. Attach this wire to the "A" or "A1" terminal on the voltage regulator. This is battery + (positive) for the relay.

Part # 150-138 -11- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

46. Route the throttle cable down towards the starter, back up towards the firewall and then up in between the firewall throttle cable bracket and the starter solenoid. The cable should be pointing up toward the hood.

47. Gather the supercharger assembly, the intake manifold to supercharger gasket and four M8 x 20mm bolts, four M8 lock washers, and four M8 flat washers. Slide the lock washers and then the washers over the bolts. Lay the gasket into place over the bolts. Hold the supercharger assembly in Figure 48 cont. place while threading in the top two M8 bolts, each with a lock washer and washer in between the bolt 49. Install the cap of the supercharger nose support head and intake manifold. Then thread in the bottom assembly using two 1/4" Allen head fine thread cap two bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20 ft-lbs. Figure 47. screws. Torque the bolts to 10 ft-lbs.

50. Find the provided serpentine belt. The belt runs from the crank pulley up to the idler pulley that is just below the water pump, around the water pump pulley under the tensioner pulley, up to and around the supercharger pulley, down to the idler pulley, down to the alternator pulley and back to the crank pulley. You may need to loosen the tensioner pulley so that the belt can be installed on all of the pulleys. Also, if you ever have to use a longer belt, extra length can be taken up by loosening the alternator and rotating it. With the belt in place, finger tighten the center tensioner pulley bolt. Run the jam nut up the tensioning bolt. Tighten the tensioning bolt, thus tightening the belt, until spinning the water pump Figure 47 pulley by hand also turns the crank and accessories. Now using a 17mm combination wrench to tighten the jam nut of the tensioner. Then use a 9/16" socket 48. Separate the cap of the supercharger nose support and ratchet to tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. assy. Attach the lower supercharger support to the Figure 50. front side of the tensioner plate. Use two 5/16" x 1" fine thread bolts, a 5/16" flat washer, then have the blower nose support, then have another 5/16" flat washer, a 5/16 lock washer and a 5/16" nut. Torque the 5/16" bolts to 19 ft-lbs. Figure 48.

Figure 48

Part # 150-138 -12- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

Figure 51 cont.

52. Pull the throttle cable through the anchor tightly so that the throttle linkage cross tube is close to the firewall throttle cable bracket. Then go inside the car and set the pedal height right about where you want it to be. We recommend setting it an inch lower than the brake pedal so that when braking the throttle pedal is not too high. Once the throttle height is set, use two 7/16" combination wrenches to gently tighten Figure 50 the anchor to the throttle cable just enough to hold it in place. Do not fully tighten at this point. Figure 52. 51. Remove one of the jam nuts from the free end of the throttle cable. Run the other jam nut to the center of the threads. Insert the cable through the throttle cable bracket attached to the bottom of the carburetor. Reinstall the jam nut. Run the throttle cable around the bell crank and into the throttle cable anchor. Do not tighten the throttle cable anchor yet. Figure 51.

Figure 52

Figure 51

Part # 150-138 -13- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

53. Have an assistant sit in the car and gently press the pedal down until it stops moving. Confirm by placing your thumb on the bell crank and pushing down, that the throttle has opened completely. Adjust if necessary. Once the pedal height is set, adjust the throttle stop on the firewall below the throttle pedal so that when the throttle pedal is fully depressed against the throttle stop, the throttle is fully wide open at the carburetor. Now fully tighten the throttle cable anchor.

54. Find the fuel pressure regulator provided in the kit. It is preset to 4.5 psi. Find the fuel line that was run under the car in previous steps. It will likely be lying in the engine compartment or under the car. Use the 4 self-tapping screws to install the fuel pressure regulator anywhere in the fuel line after the fuel Figure 55 pump, preferably in the engine compartment, but out of harm’s way. Run the fuel line from the pump to 56. Connect your stock choke cable to the underside of the "In" side of the regulator cutting the fuel line as the carburetor. Run the cable through the choke and necessary. Run the reaming fuel line from the "Out" tighten the cable through the cable anchor that is side of the regulator to the fitting on the float bowl of attached to the fixed bracket on the underside of the the carburetor. Use hose clamps on all attachment carburetor. Figure 56. points. Use the remaining provided zip-ties to attach the fuel hose to the chassis, allowing some slack to account for engine rock. Figure 54.

Out

In Figure 56

Figure 54

55. Run the hose on the distributor’s vacuum advance to the "Tee" fitting that lies between the supercharger bypass diaphragm and the carburetor mounting plate. You will find 5/32" rubber hose in the kit for this purpose. Figure 55.

Part # 150-138 -14- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

57. Find the 30" long float camber overflow tube in the 64. There are two vacuum ports on the intake manifold kit. The tube is provided the so that overflow can be provided for your convenience, do not remove rubber routed away from the exhaust. Remove the small caps unless used. Start the engine. Let it warm up piece of hose from atop the float chamber. Install the and check for coolant leaks and proper 30" over flow tube in its place. You will need to bend operation. The car should start and idle. Slight the tube yourself. Make sure the tube never goes adjustments may be necessary for your particular higher than the top of the float bowl. Use a tubing application. However, the safe, rich base tune should bender or bend it over a round object to keep it from be near ideal for most . That said, here are the kinking. original settings in case you adjust the settings and want to go back to stock. As delivered, the idle 58. Fill the dashpot with the supplied 90 weight oil until it air bleed screw should be just over 3.5 turns out. is about 1/4" from the top of the dashpot, NOT from The throttle stop screw should just be touching the the top of the "milk can". NOTE: We have provided throttle stop, just slightly opening the blade by 1/16 more oil than it will take to fill the dashpot. Do not to 1/8 of a turn. Having set the jet to be flush with the overfill. If you do overfill, you can use the dampener bottom of the carburetor, turn the idle mixture screw assembly and a rag to scoop the oil out. 3.5 turns down. Backing the mixture screw out will lean the mixture. 59. Reinstall the radiator fan on to the fan hub extension. 65. Once the car is warm, check the ignition timing to 60. Reinstall the radiator and its hoses. make sure that the crank pulley has been installed correctly and the timing mark lines up properly with 61. Fill the cooling system with a proper 50/50 mixture of the timing mark. Note that if you are unable to get and distilled water. We recommend using the timing light to highlight the timing mark by a large Red Line waterwetter moss part # 220-115. Fill the margin, you may have installed the crank pulley off by fuel tank with 91 US octane RON+MON/2 fuel (or 60 degrees, 120 degrees or 180 degrees. higher if available). Connect the negative chassis ground to the negative side of the battery. Turn the 66. Turn off the vehicle and let it cool down. Top off all key on to prime the fuel system. Check for any leaks. fluid levels. Check your work and make sure there If there are no leaks present, turn the ignition key is nothing loose. The throttle is operating correctly back off and lower the vehicle to the ground. Make and retuning to fully closed. Make sure the fuel sure the left rear wheel is properly torqued. hose, throttle and choke cables are not rubbing on any sharp edges or being stretched or damaged by 62. Install the supplied spark plugs. We recommend engine rock. using anti-seize on the threads. The gap is .035". We highly recommend installing new spark plug wires, 67. Reinstall the hood and radiator shroud. points, condenser and the cap and rotor – all readily available from Moss Motors. You will use a 13/16" 68. Test drive the vehicle. Check for detonation or socket on the new plugs. pinging. If any detonation occurs, retard the timing in 2 degree increments until it is completely gone. 63. If your vehicle was a + (positive) ground (earth) car at the beginning of this install, you need to follow the 69. The base supercharger kit with the 5.87" crank pulley instruction on converting to – (negative) ground (earth) and the 2.67" supercharger pulley should produce found at the end of these instruction. When you have 5 to 6 psi of intake manifold pressure or "boost". completed the rewiring of your components, return to This is on a stock 2.1L (86mm ) with a stock and complete these instructions. exhaust manifold. If you have the smaller 2.0L (83mm pistons) and no engine or exhaust modifications you will probably have more boost. If you have a larger pistons, and or exhaust manifolds you will have less boost. Simply adding a header and large diameter exhaust may cause the boost to drop 1 psi. This does not mean you are loosing horse power, it just means the engine is breathing better. We offer a "big boost" supercharger pulley for those who wish to run more boost.

Part # 150-138 -15- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions Converting your Triumph from Positive to Negative Ground

1. If you have an original radio, remove it. It will no longer work with negative ground.

2. If you have an ammeter, you’ll need to reverse the wires connected to it.

3. Some may have a diode across the points rather than a condenser. Reverse the connections to the diode.

4. Reverse the connections going to the : Connect the (-) side of the coil to the wire going to the distributor and the (+) side of the coil to the wire going to the ignition switch.

5. Reverse the connections to the heater fan motor. If you don’t, the fan motor will rotate backwards.

That’s it! It is not necessary to change the leads at the starter motor. The starter uses a series-wound motor that will always rotate the correct way with either polarity.

Bill of Materials for 150-138

BELT TENSIONING SYSTEM Part # Description Qty 053-287 TOP PLATE, BLACK, TR4 SC 1 053-248 TENSIONER PLATE, POWDERCOATED 1 320-555 BOLT, 5/16 UNC X 1 1/4 1 051-588 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 IN., SAE 6 051-587 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16 IN 3 053-218 BELT TENSION BLOCK, TR4 SC 1 771-643 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-24 X 1.25 2 322-075 BOLT, 3/8 UNF X 1 1/2 3 772-826 NUT, 3/8-24, GRADE 8, ZINC 3 052-904 TENSIONER, T-NUT, MIATA MP62 1 051-627 PULLEY, 2.0IN IDLER, NYLON 3 320-275 BOLT, 3/8 UNF X 3, G3 2 324-385 WASHER, FLAT, 3/8 ID, ZINC 5 324-040 WASHER, LOCK, SQ CX, 3/8 IN 5 310-050 NUT, HEX, 3/8 UNF, G5, ZINC 2 051-217 BOLT, HEX, M10 X 1.50 X 60 1 051-215 SPACER, SHOULDER 3 053-246 TENSIONER SPACER, TR4 SC 1 053-247 IDLER STAND, TR4 SC 2 053-249 TENSIONER PLATE STANDOFF,TR4SC 1

Part # 150-138 -16- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

BELT TENSIONING SYSTEM Continued Part # Description Qty 322-225 BOLT, 7/16 UNF X 2 1/2 1 324-905 WASHER, FLAT, 7/16 SAE G8 2 324-250 WASHER, LOCK, 7/16 IN 1 310-300 NUT, HEX, 7/16 UNF, G8, ZINC 1 052-922 NUT, JAM, M10 X 1.5 1 052-924 BOLT, M10 X 1.5 X 60, HEX HEAD 1 052-610 BLOWER NOSE SUPPORT CROWN 1 052-628 SCREW, 1/4-28 X 1.25, AHCS 2 053-243 SC NOSE SUPPORT CRADLE, TR3/4 1 052-339 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNF 2

ENGINE MOUNTED HARDWARE Part # Description Qty 053-205 WATER PUMP PULLEY, TR4 SC 1 697-080 GASKET, WATER PUMP 1 835-072 WATER PUMP,STANDARD W/O PULLEY 1 052-252 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-18 X 1.0 1 051-588 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 IN., SAE 7 051-587 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16 IN 3 053-219 ALTERNATOR BRACKET, TR4 SC 1 322-870 BOLT, 5/16 UNC X 3/4 4 052-095 PULLEY, ALTERNATOR, 4-RIB 1 130-102 ALTERNATOR,18ACR, 45AMP, NEW 1 322-150 BOLT, 5/16 UNF X 5 1 052-339 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNF 2 771-643 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-24 X 1.25 1 315-205 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 ID, 7/8 OD 1 770-591 NUT, NYLOC, M8 X 1.25 1

SUPERCHARGER & MANIFOLD,TR4 SC Part # Description Qty 053-280 S/C GEN4 MP45CW, 4.09 IN NOSE 1 053-240 ADAPTER, HD8 TO MP45, TR4 SC 1 771-490 HOSE BARB, 1/4 VACUUM 1 053-222 INTAKE MANIFOLD,MACHINED,TR4SC 1 051-719 O-RING, VITON, NO. 202 1 051-720 O-RING, VITON, NO. 218 1 051-438 SPRING, AFPR 1 770-572 VALVE BODY, POP-OFF 1

Part # 150-138 -17- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

SUPERCHARGER & MANIFOLD,TR4 SC Continued Part # Description Qty 770-573 RETAINER, SPRING 1 770-576 STUD, POP-OFF VALVE 1 770-577 NUT, NYLOC, 1/4 UNF 1 695-070 GASKET, MANIFOLD, PAIR, HP 1 052-834 INLET GASKET, MP45 & MP62 GEN4 1 052-835 OUTLET GASKET, MP45 GEN4 1 053-238 BRACKET,CARB TO THROTTLE CABLE 1 053-261 CARB, SU HD8, MOSS MODIFIED 1 370-185 BANJO, SINGLE PUSH-ON, BRASS 1 053-252 RETURN SPRING BRACKET, TR4 1 053-282 THROTTLE SPRING, TR3-4 SC 1 051-207 SCREW, AHCS, M8 X 1.25 X 25 4 051-074 WASHER, FLAT, M8 4 051-142 HOSE BARB, 5/32 VACUUM 2 051-551 HOSE, VACUUM, 7/32 IN., BULK 10 053-269 GASKET, HD8, CORK,0.15IN THICK 1 051-151 CAP, VACUUM, RUBBER, 5/32 3 051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 4 051-389 TEE, VACUUM, 3/16 1 052-247 STUD, 5/16 UNC, 1.25" LONG OA 4 052-840 GASKET, HIF44 TO MANIFOLD 1 771-642 BOLT, HEX, 5/16-24 X 1 2 051-588 WASHER, FLAT, 5/16 IN., SAE 2 051-587 WASHER, LOCK, 5/16 IN 6 052-339 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNF 2 053-237 FILTER, W/PLATE, MACHINED, HD8 1 051-446 NUT, STANDARD, 5/16 UNC 4 051-127 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 20 4 051-075 WASHER, LOCK, M8 4 771-369 WASHER, FLAT, M5 5 276-055 ABUTMENT, CHOKE CABLE 1 375-108 STOP ASSY,CABLE,W/NUT & WASHER 1 325-251 COTTER PIN, 1/16 X 3/4 2 053-254 PULLEY, TR3-TR4 SC, 2.67 1

Part # 150-138 -18- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

FUEL PUMP KIT, ELECTRIC Part # Description Qty 052-649 FUEL PUMP, ELECTRIC 1 832-550 PLATE, FUEL PUMP BLOCK OFF 1 697-100 GASKET, FUEL PUMP 1 051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 10 051-101 RELAY, 12V, 30A, SPST 1 771-992 CAP SCREW, 1/4-20 X 1.0, ZINC 2 051-583 WASHER, LOCK, 1/4 IN 2 324-590 WASHER, FLAT, 1/4 ID, ZINC 2 772-331 SCREW, #8-18, SELF DRILL&TAP 1 051-474 HOSE, FUEL, 5/16, BULK 122 051-191 CLAMP, HOSE, MINI, SAE NO. 4 10 052-343 FUEL FILTER, FOR 1/4 IN HOSE 1 770-889 WIRE, BLACK, 18 GA. 5 772-335 WIRE, 14 GAGE, RED 154 771-276 WIRE, YELLOW, 18 GA., BULK 8 052-078 FUSE HOLDER, 12 GA, INLINE 1 772-336 FUSE, 5 AMP 1 051-387 SPADE CON, FEMALE, 18-22 GA 8 051-395 SPADE CON, MALE, 18-22 GA 5 052-651 RING CONN,18-22GA,5/16STUD 1 772-848 RING TERMINAL, 3/8 TO 16GA 2 161-615 CONN, FEMALE SPADE, 16-14 GA. 10 161-620 CONN, MALE SPADE, 16-14 GA. 10 051-212 HOSE BARB,1/8NPT X 5/16 X90DEG 2 771-467 WIRE, BROWN, 16 GAUGE 3 053-294 FUEL PRESSURE REG SET 4.5PSI 1

HARDWARE BAG, TR4 SC Part # Description Qty 053-286 SPARK PLUG, NGK BP7HS 4 053-281 BELT, BANDO K060663, 1685 1 053-256 CRANK PULLEY, 5.87, TR4 SC 1 053-220 THROTTLE BRACKET, FIREWALL 1 220-136 REMOVABLE THREADLOCKER, BLUE 1 324-855 WASHER, LOCK, 1/4, STD G8 2 052-321 BOLT, HEX, 1/4-28 X 1 2 324-590 WASHER, FLAT, 1/4 ID, ZINC 2 770-577 NUT, NYLOC, 1/4 UNF 2 772-270 BOLT, HEX, 1/4-28 X 0.75,GRD-8 2

Part # 150-138 -19- Modified 02/18 Installation Instructions

HARDWARE BAG, TR4 SC Continued Part # Description Qty 051-583 WASHER, LOCK, 1/4 IN 2 770-812 NUT, STANDARD, 1/4-28 2 052-277 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.14 THICK 6 052-278 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.06 THICK 6 052-279 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.03 THICK 6 052-280 SHIM, MANIFOLD, 0.02 THICK 6 053-279 STANDOFF, TR4 FUEL PUMP 1 053-288 BOLT, 7/16-20 X 2-1/4,G8, ZINC 1 324-275 WASHER, 7/16"ID X 3/4"OD 1 324-250 WASHER, LOCK, 7/16 IN 1 310-800 NUT, HEX, 7/16 UNF, G5, ZINC 1 320-565 BOLT, 3/8 UNF X 2 1/4 1 324-580 WASHER, FLAT, 3/8 ID, ZINC 1 324-340 WASHER, LOCK, 3/8 IN 1 310-050 NUT, HEX, 3/8 UNF, G5, ZINC 1 322-946 SCREW, 10-32 X 1, PAN HEAD 2 315-055 WASHER, FLAT, #10, ZINC 2 451-250 PIPE, FLOAT CHAMBER OVERFLOW 1 051-259 HOSE, VACUUM, 5/32 IN., BULK 60 053-241 CABLE, THROTTLE 1 540-280 PLUG KIT, ALTERNATOR 1 052-336 BOTTLE, FLUID, 2 OZ 1 052-337 OIL, SAE 90 WEIGHT 2 053-152 INSTRUCTIONS, TR4 SC 1

Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and clarity of this information, any suggestions that you may have that will improve the information (especially detailed installation notes and photos) are welcome. These instructions were developed and written by Moss Technical Support. If you have any questions or difficulties with your installation of this product, telephone 800-667-7872 between 7:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m., Pacific Time for assistance. Moss Motors, Ltd. Moss Europe Ltd. 440 Rutherford Street, Goleta, California 93117 Hampton Farm Industrial Estate In the US & Canada Toll Free (800) 667-7872 Hampton Road West, Hanworth Middlesex, TW13 6DB LOCAL (805) 681-3400 FAX (805) 692-2510 In the UK: 020-8867-2020 FAX: 020-8867-2030

Part # 150-138 -20- Modified 02/18