The Impact of on Kalymnos Rock Climbing

CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

THE IMPACT OF ROCK CLIMBING ON KALYMNOS

February 2020

1 THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

ABOUT THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

The Climbing Initiative is a Colorado-based nonprofit supporting climbing communities worldwide. Through research, community engagement, and partnerships, we bring together organizations invested in the future of climbing and develop best practices for supporting the growth of climbing in emerging contexts. We believe rock climbing can empower individuals, create new sources of livelihood, and foster the development of a more sustainable and equitable world.

climbinginitiative.org

Cover photo by Nikolaos Smalios

Design by Mario Minchevski behance.net/mDesign

Photographers Veronica Baker and Nikolaos Smalios

CONTENTS

1 Summary

2 Introduction

5 History

9 Economic Impact

12 Social Impact

15 Environmental Impact

18 Challenges & Opportunities

25 Recommendations

28 Conclusions

3 THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

4 Luisa Zoe Millonig powering up the tufas on Sevasti (7b) at the Iannis sector Photo by Veronica Baker CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

SUMMARY

Kalymnos has more than 3,400 routes on a 109 square kilometer (42 square mile) island and receives thousands of climbing tourists every year.

Climbing has injected new life into the island’s economy and mitigated the effects of the Greek economic crisis.

A significant social shift is occurring as locals embrace climbing tourism, though there is still not a great degree of integration between climbers and locals.

While climbers have relatively low environmental impact, environmental practices throughout Kalymnos need to be improved to preserve the island.

A small number of volunteers are responsible for route development, maintenance, and rescues on the island.

Without this volunteer work, Kalymnos risks losing its status as a top climbing destination, as failure to maintain routes could have severe safety consequences.

Kalymnos demonstrates the incredible economic benefit of climbing tourism, and highlights the need for climbing communities and locals to work together to preserve this resource.

SUMMARY THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

INTRODUCTION

The Greek island of Kalymnos is one community at a later stage of develop- of the most popular climbing desti- ment. This case also offers insights into nations in the world, boasting world- the benefits of collaboration between class limestone cliffs and year-round stakeholders—and foreshadows the climbing conditions. Since the 1990s, consequences of inaction. climbers have bolted more than 3,400 routes. The presence of climbers has STUDY OBJECTIVES reshaped the economy of the island The Climbing Initiative conducts case studies on climbing areas and communities at different stages of devel- Kalymnos is one of opment. We believe that communicat- the most popular ing patterns in the context of climbing climbing destinations worldwide has the potential to change in the world the way organizations and communities interact around climbing-related issues. and dramatically extended the tourism STUDY AREA season. Thousands of climbers visit Kalymnos each year, but exact num- Kalymnos is a 109 square kilometer (42 bers are unknown. A handful of volun- square mile) Greek island in the Aege- teers dedicate their time and resourc- an Sea. You can drive its length by car es toward the development and safety in under an hour. It is part of the Dodec- of the island. As Kalymnos grows more anese island chain and lies fewer than and more popular as a climbing holi- 20 kilometers (12 miles) from the coast day destination, issues are emerging. of Turkey. Most of the climbing is locat- From environmental impact to tensions ed on the northwestern coast, roughly surrounding funding for maintenance, expanding from Myrties and Massou- Kalymnos provides a unique lens into ri across to the neighboring island of the challenges faced by a climbing Telendos and up to Emporios.

INTRODUCTION CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

ITALY

TURKEY GREECE

EMPORIOS

TELENDOS KALYMNOS MASSOURI MYRTIES METHODOLOGY

In June-July 2019, The Climbing Ini- tiative conducted a case study on the impacts of rock climbing on Kalymnos. Veronica Baker, the principal research- er, conducted interviews with a variety SUPPORT of climbers, business owners, government officials, and others with knowl- This study was supported by funds edge of the impact of climbing on the from the Jackson Institute for Global island. Interview questions focused on Affairs at Yale University. the history of climbing on Kalymnos; its economic, social, and environmental CONTACT impacts; relationships between local businesses, the municipality, climbing The Climbing Initiative welcomes feed- developers, and tourists; challenges back and opportunities for future re- they currently face; attempts to ad- search. We would love to hear from dress those challenges; and hopes for you. Please feel free to reach out to the future. The study employed snow- [email protected] or find us on ball sampling and semi-structured in- Instagram at @theclimbinginitiative. terviews.

INTRODUCTION THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

4 View of the main port in Pothia arriving by ferry from Kos Photo by Veronica Baker CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

HISTORY

Before climbers realized the incredi- 1996, while managing the website for ble potential of the limestone cliffs on the municipality, Roditis had an idea. Kalymnos, the island was known for “I thought, ‘This is a nice topic for the its sponge diving industry. It also saw website.’ I started a whole section on a moderate number of tourists. In the climbing. It developed into lots of infor- 1980s, tourists booking a Greek island mation: a forum, a place for climbers getaway would often visit neighboring to exchange information.” After a few islands which more developed for tour- years, he said, “You could see that the ism. If the hotels on those islands were website visits skyrocketed.” overbooked, tour companies would re-route their visitors to Kalymnos. “In the Dodecanese, Kalymnos was not a major part of the tourism industry con- “I went to the mayor trary to Kos or Rhodes,” said Dimitris and I told him we Roditis, who works as the information should do something technology manager for the municipality and helps his wife, Evdokia, run her to promote climbing” accommodations and restaurant. After the tourism peak of the 80s, “tourism sort of faded. Other places were more In 1999, a European magazine pub- interesting and their economies devel- lished photos of this new climbing oped. Tourism in Kalymnos started to paradise. Greek mountain guide Aris decline. As things started to go down- Theodoropoulos saw the article and wards—boom!—the climbing wave immediately traveled to Kalymnos. He started.” soon realized the island’s immense potential. “I went to the mayor and I told In 1995, Greek climber Giannis Torel- him we should do something to pro- li visited the island and discovered mote climbing,” he said. pristine white limestone. The following year, Italian climber Andrea di Bari George Hatzismalis, who works for the arrived and established 43 routes. In local tourism office of the municipality,

Photo by Veronica Baker HISTORY THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

was one of the individuals contacted “Our intention was to increase the total by Theodoropoulos in 1999. “We had number of routes on the island and de- a meeting and the mayor at that time velop routes of a wider range of diffi- decided that we must try to develop culty in order to attract more climbers,” climbing.” At this meeting, Hatzismalis, said Hatzismalis. “Someone who wants Theodoropoulos, and the mayor came to make his holiday on this island will up with a set of priorities: counting ex- not come when he could easily climb isting routes on the island, bolting more all the routes in his level of ability in 1 to routes, and developing a guidebook. 3 days. So we needed to create new The team found 180 routes on the is- routes on the island in order to make land established by visiting climbers. the visit here worth it from a climber’s point of view.”

The following year, in 2000, the municipality hosted the first climbing festival on Kalymnos. “The first festival was 180 people,” said Theodoropoulos. “I never imagined that Kalymnos could be the best in the world. Greece had good money then and said ‘why not,’ so they helped.”

2006 was a turning point for the island, when Theodoropoulos reached out to Petzl and organized a RocTrip. “They brought twenty of the best climbers of the time like Chris Sharma. It was great publicity for the island,” he said.

The municipality has continued to or- ganize festivals semi-regularly in the years since. Funding and organizing the festival is how they choose to ‘support’ the climbing community: the municipal- 16-year-old Adam Ondra climbing on Kalymnos ity does not regularly contribute funds Photo by Nikolaos Smalios for bolting or maintenance, and instead

HISTORY CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

relies upon volunteers to provide these 6b, and they want to have a safe expe- essential services year-round. rience with clean and easy routes. This is 90 percent of climbers,” said Claude Today, Kalymnos is known as a world- Idoux, one of the main route develop- class climbing destination. “It is the star ers and vice president of the Kalymnos of Greek climbing,” said guidebook Rescue Team. co-author Katie Roussos. “A lot of international visitors keep coming back ev- Kalymnos offers an affordable and ery year. That is pretty unique around peaceful vacation atmosphere. “Peo- the world.” Hotels and studios on the ple say they come because the climb- island make up approximately 3,500 ing is amazing,” said Dimitrios Chalikos, beds, but the true scale of accommo- who owns and operates Climbers Mas- dations is unknown, as the municipality sage, a physiotherapy studio on the does not count Airbnbs and other stu- island. “They say that we are friendly dios not officially registered. people. We have everything—we are close to the sea, we have nice rocks, With more than 3,400 bolted routes, the food is beautiful, the nature, and including many moderates, Kalymnos everything is good to them. And the life is a haven for climbers of all ages and is simpler. It’s not like other big climb- abilities. “The majority of climbers who ing communities.” have a real economic impact here are 40-50 years old, they climb from 5a to

Kalymnos by the numbers

3,400 80 20 min climbing routes crags average approach

Including small neighboring islands Telendos and Pserimos

HISTORY THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

8 Dave Mora on DNA (7a) in the Grande Grotta Photo by Veronica Baker CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

ECONOMIC IMPACT

Climbing has completely transformed ic activities centered around climbing the economy of Kalymnos. “Kalymnos grew, and now we can start at the be- is fortunate to have these cliffs on the ginning of March and end on Decem- west coast,” said Theodoropoulos. ber 10. But, if Kalymnians wanted, we “There was some infrastructure from could work all year long.” the 1980s and early 1990s, but there wasn’t much here. There was one In addition to extending the tourist place to eat and only a couple of plac- season, climbing has triggered the es to stay. Twenty years has made a creation of dozens of businesses. “Es- big difference. Most of the old devel- pecially in these difficult years for the opments are being restored. A grow- country, this is a lifesaver,” said Roditis. ing handful of foreign climbers have “I’m not just talking about accommoda- invested. There actually is construction tion and restaurants. All the services going on, unlike in the rest of Greece. around climbing came alive.” These in- Climbing has absolutely helped Kalym- clude gear shops, mini markets, a day- nos avoid the massive Greek crisis. A care/play area for climbers’ children, lot of service jobs, restaurants, rentals. guiding businesses, yoga lessons, and I am a thousand percent sure that peo- companies that offer scuba diving and ple are aware that climbing is contrib- other ecotourism services aimed to- uting to the welfare of the island.” ward climbers on their rest days. Many of these businesses are founded by The influx of climbers over the years international climbers. However, busi- has dramatically extended the working nesses owned by locals have also ad- season on Kalymnos. Idoux described justed their offerings to climber needs: the change he has seen on the island for example, cafes open very early in since his arrival in 2004. “Climbing was the morning to accommodate climbers developing, but the season was only before they set off for the cliffs; they from May 20 to the end of September. serve breakfast (traditionally an un- So my idea was to create some new common meal in Greece); and some lines and develop more routes. Over have started juicing vegetables or cre- the years, the time frame of econom- ating “power breakfasts” with imported

Photo by Veronica Baker ECONOMIC IMPACT THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

ingredients like quinoa, spirulina, and and try to see if it could work. And for goji berries. the moment for us, and for many other people, I think, Kalymnos is our para- Chalikos sees massage clients com- dise. We find our future on Kalymnos.” ing back to Kalymnos every year. “And some of them, mostly people from Eu- However, some believe that not all lo- rope, are coming two or three times cals recognize the economic benefit of per year,” he said. “My family and I were climbers. “Businesses open earlier and thinking many years before to leave close later in the year now, but they Kalymnos, like most of the people after do not know why they work, or how to the crisis, but we decided to stay here work,” said Idoux. “The biggest mistake from the community is that they don’t understand that the main economy from the island is the climbers,” said Chalikos. “The community here doesn’t understand the power of the climbers and they don’t do anything to help the whole system.”

Tania Matsuka, a climbing guide on Kalymnos, emphasizes that maximizing the economic potential of climbing on Kalymnos will require effort from everyone on the island. “What we should all remember is that it’s good to benefit from the climbing development, but we should also give back. It’s not an endless resource. We have to keep it alive. Everyone, climber or not, who loves the island can come up with some ideas and try to help—financially or otherwise.”

One of many climbing-related businesses Photo by Veronica Baker

ECONOMIC IMPACT CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

11 Kristína Ondrová climbing at the Odyssey sector

Photo by Nikolaos Smalios THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

SOCIAL IMPACT

The evolution of Kalymnos from an un- becomes one of the elements of our der-visited island to a climbing hotspot society. Local people are just now has resulted in a significant social shift. starting to appreciate the rocks that “What brings social change on Kalym- nature has given to this place. It will nos? The presence of rock climbers on define socially what Kalymnos will be a this island,” said Sevasti Chalkiti, who few years from now.” works for The Kalymnos Experience, an adventure tourism company. “They ar- The presence of climbers has led to a rive from places outside here, so what change in the way Kalymnians provide they bring is very new. This is a great services to tourists. “It was, at first, a bit way for people to mingle socially. We interesting for the locals because they knew how to behave to someone who comes here to experience the beaches and walks and stuff like that,” said Rodi- “If we define tis. “Climbers brought something new to ourselves as a place tourism, such as a different diet. They’re that attracts climbers, athletes, so they eat healthy. Not that it was unhealthy before—but they fo- this means that slowly cus on nice healthy foods to help with this nature-loving the physical effort. Vegetarianism, also lifestyle becomes one lots of other interests too. So this was, I of the elements of our think, a basic change in the tourism cir- society” cuit that had to do with climbers.” Many people agree that climbers are well-perceived on Kalymnos. “I think get to observe ourselves through their the locals are very grateful to have the eyes and they do the same. Through climbers here and I think they do ap- tourism, if we define ourselves as a preciate them. I think the majority are place that attracts climbers, this means very friendly,” said Matsuka. However, that slowly this nature-loving lifestyle others point out that there is a lack of

SOCIAL IMPACT CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

meaningful exchange and understand- proven vital so many times,” said Rodi- ing between climbers and the locals. tis. “There have been lots of messages “There aren’t that many Greek climb- to the municipality praising the rescue ers in general,” explained Roussos. team, saying ‘Thank you so much. If it “We don’t have a mountain tradition. wasn’t for you, I would be dead.’” We take to the sea. The mountains are the place to hide from the Germans or pirates. The attitude is, ‘climbing is for crazy foreigners.’ They can’t fathom it.“ “There have been lots “Even today most locals refer to climb- of messages to the ers using the Greek word for ‘moun- municipality praising taineers,’” said Michalis Gerakios, one of the founders of The Kalymnos Ex- the rescue team, perience and a member of the rescue saying ‘Thank you so team. “Local society should get more much. If it wasn’t for actively involved.” you, I would be dead’”

According to Chalikos, the number of Kalymnians involved in rock climbing is around 30 to 40 people. “This is not When asked about social tensions on good for the island. Most of those peo- the island, Roussos explained that for ple are on the rescue team. I think that the most part, things are good. “Every- for the last three or four years, there one is benefiting [from climbing]. At first have been lessons on climbing in the there were some concerned voices, schools. This is good of course. It’s but this had to do more with personal better if the parents understand how disagreements. Shepherds were pro- safe climbing is, because their idea of testing that climbers were disturbing climbing is: ‘one guy, one rope, and their animals. This is too funny to me. I one bolt.’ But it’s not like that... Here the believe they were just worried. Climb- parents are so protective. We have to ers are the only people I know who be more open about these situations.” were closing the gates behind them. Because they knew it was important.” Safety is an enormous focus of the climbing community on Kalymnos. The Kalymnos Rescue Team, founded in 2013, coordinates emergency response on the island. “The rescue team has

SOCIAL IMPACT THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

14 Mateusz Mikosik climbing at the Poets sector Photo by Veronica Baker CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

Considering the number of visiting advertisements.” Roussos notes that climbers and the small size of the island, attempts have been made to educate Kalymnos has stayed relatively clean. climbers about environmental impact However, there is a feeling among the through the guidebook and climb- climbing community that more should kalymnos.com, but “people don’t like be done to protect the environment. to be preached to. It’s a fine line.” “Climbing can give so many things to the community, but unfortunately, the Beyond the impact of waste at the environmental impact is something crag, the municipality’s approach to that comes with it. The more people, public services creates additional en- the more pollution. Around the crags, vironmental hazard. “Kalymnos pays there is so much toilet paper. There is thousands per year in fines to the Eu- so much trash. I feel it could be better ropean Union for burning their gar- taken care of,” said Matsuka. “The is- bage,” said Roussos. A huge portion of land of Kalymnos is small, and we only the waste comes from plastic bottles: succeed if we respect the ecology of tap water on Kalymnos is not drinkable. the island,” said Roussos. “Sadly, there When climbers visit Kalymnos, they of- is no discussion about environmental ten contribute to this problem by pur- impact. I wish there was more of a dis- chasing bottled water from the store. cussion. That has been on my list, but I The island has tried and failed to cre- don’t know where to start.” ate a recycling program. Although the municipality has provided water refill “Whenever I go up to the cliffs, I clean stations throughout the island, many in- up toilet paper, cigarettes, climbing dividuals refuse to use them due to in- tape, etc.,” said Idoux. “And towards convenience or taste. Many interview- the end of the season I grow anxious ees noted the irresponsibility of this because people are not changing their system and expressed that it would be behaviors.” Matsuka feels that “the way in the long-term interest of the munici- to improve the island and make it clean- pality to fix the water system. er is through education—through the municipality, through schools, through

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

A pigeon checking out the climbing scene

Photo by Veronica Baker

Impact to the rock itself is also a con- notes, though, that in some areas, de- cern for some climbers on the island. velopment has been conservative to “We must leave pristine spaces for the protect the rock. “For example, in the next generation. Taking the example of main sector of Grande Grotta, there the Grande Grotta, we have broken a are only about fourteen routes set lot of stalactites to open new routes,” up,” she said. “There could be two or said Idoux. “I discovered a cemetery of three times the number of routes, but stalactites in Secret Garden that were there was a decision not to open more broken with a hammer... Geologically, routes so we can maintain the rock. So this cave took millions of years to form, that’s a good sign.” and in one nanosecond, we break it all.” Matsuka agrees that breakage of stalactites is of significant concern. She

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

17 Aris Theodoropoulos climbing at the Odyssey sector Photo by Nikolaos Smalios THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES

THE NEED FOR DATA Such a program would be an excel- lent first step in measuring the depth In order to truly grasp the economic, and types of impact climbers are hav- social, and environmental impacts of ing on Kalymnos. The current lack of climbing visitors on Kalymnos, more data likely leads to an undervaluing data on their size and activities is nec- of the true scale of climber impact or essary. “Our guesstimate is that we the need for programs that support have around 5,000 to 10,000 climbers climbers, including maintenance and per year at least, but we don’t know rescue services. for sure,” said Theodoropoulos. “We MAINTENANCE AND SAFETY

With the large number of climbers vis- “Our guesstimate is iting Kalymnos, having a team dedicat- that we have around ed to rescue and route maintenance 5,000 to 10,000 is essential. “To be perfectly clear, if climbers per year at we do not maintain routes or operate the rescue team and there were to be least, but we don’t a serious accident tomorrow because know for sure” of a maintenance issue on a route, with the speed of social media and the internet, we would have to close. need statistics. It needs to be the of- It would be bad publicity,” said Idoux. ficial business of the island.” It would Despite their lack of funding, he says, be relatively simple for the municipal- “all our rescues have been success- ity to implement a system at the main ful. This year, we had four major acci- sea port and airport that requires each dents, which is relatively few, and they visitor to indicate upon arrival the rea- were all due to human error and not son for their travel and their type of technical failure.” accommodations, length of trip, and mode of transportation on the island.

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

Many of the issues, Idoux said, are bolts are always in the right place, the result of mistakes made by visiting the difficult moves are protected and route developers. Numerous climb- there is no risk of decking. I just ask ers every year come from outside of that people who open new routes re- Kalymnos with the desire to establish spect these rules.” He adds, “before new routes. When visitors develop a people from the outside are allowed new route but fail to clean and bolt to open a route, I would like them to it properly, it leads to other climbers replace/maintain two old routes. And getting ropes stuck or taking unsafe they must only open routes that they falls and sustaining injuries. “I do not are able to climb.” open routes that I am not capable of climbing, since I bolt climbs from the base (on lead),” says Idoux. “This way,

Nick Jalbert climbing at the Panorama sector

The Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing is implementing rules for the development of climbing nationwide. Those interested in learning about equipping guidelines on Kalymnos should visit climbkalymnos.com/ climbing/#equipping-new- 19 routes

Photo by Veronica Baker THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

SUPPORT FROM THE from the European Union. My opinion is MUNICIPALITY that they should take some part of this money and give it to the climbers. Be- The government considers itself a cause for the last 15 years, climbing is champion of rock climbing on Kalym- the only economy that comes to the is- nos. In Hatzismalis’ view, the festival is land. For example, now, in July, we are the municipality’s “gift to the climbers.” waiting for the climbers for us to work. However, most climbers see it differ- In the high season in the summer, we ently. “The four municipalities I have have a maximum of 800 people per known since I arrived on Kalymnos week, and during the climbing season, have never invested in rock climbing. we have about 2,000 people. So you They only invest themselves in the fes- understand the difference: if the climb- tival, for three days,” said Idoux. ers leave, we die here. We have started thinking about that, but we are not Climbers invested in route develop- doing very many things. We have to do ment, maintenance, and safety on the more.” island feel that the municipality has failed to keep its promises when it comes to supporting climbing beyond “For Kalymnos to the festival. “I believe that there should be annual or monthly funding collected remain a leader in by the municipality coming mostly from climbing tourism, we the local community and visitors that must work together” goes directly to the maintenance of the routes or to the cleaning, because money is like a circle: money spent on maintenance and development will Representatives of the municipality say come back through tourism,” said Mat- they would be happy to support climb- suka. “I feel that climbing gives a lot to ing more if they could, but the strain the island. The local community should of the Greek economy limits their ca- protect it more and start giving back to pacity to help. Despite the lack of avail- climbing. Yes they are nice, yes they are able funds, climbers on the island still friendly for sure, but I feel that it could wish the municipality showed greater be better.” In Chalikos’ view, the mu- interest. “I haven’t seen a lot of effort nicipality is benefiting from a resource or initiation from their side,” said Mat- that they don’t contribute to maintain- suka. “Most of the time it comes from ing. “Per year, they take a lot of money climbers, trying to approach them and

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

edge about climbing. We are talking about politicians that don’t understand or care how to approach the subject. They could do a lot more and engage everyone.”

SUPPORT FROM LOCAL BUSINESSES

Like the municipality, local businesses benefit immensely from climbing without directly contributing to the work re- quired to maintain it. The lack of collaboration among climbers, restaurants, hotels, and the municipality holds the island back. “I would like the various economic stakeholders to be present and deliver a common message: we must work together, and not against one another,” said Idoux. “There is a cultural issue here. People here are Rob Carroll climbing in Ghost Kitchen jealous of one another, which is a com- Photo by Veronica Baker mon issue in small villages, and they must understand that for Kalymnos to remain a leader in climbing tourism, we must work together.” explain the importance of the impact of climbing and how much we need them. In Chalikos’ view, local business own- I’m not saying that no one working for ers like himself should be enthusiastic the municipality is supportive, but we about contributing financial support to are expecting more initiation and effort the climbing community, because with- from the locals and not just the climb- out climbers, their source of livelihood ers.” Gerakios emphasizes that the would disappear. “It’s very important municipality means well, but blames for all of us who have a business—from the larger Greek system. “There is a the first business in Myrties to the last sense of good will. Kalymnians are re- in Emporios, for example—to give ev- ally appreciative, but they lack knowl- ery month about 20 or 50 euros to

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

put it all in one box or one bank, and Idoux sees a way for climbers and this money goes only to rebolting the businesses to both contribute through routes. Some people understand that, an annual fee. “We could charge climb- some say ‘Oh, no, why do that?’ But to ers 30 euros to cover costs associated me, for example, 20 euros per month is with opening and maintaining routes half an hour of one massage. It’s noth- and running the rescue, but we would ing. It’s nothing because if the climbers also like the economic stakeholders to aren’t coming here, I haven’t got these contribute, such as bars giving climb- 20 euros for my family.” ers 5 percent discounts on drinks for example. It’s not much, but it’s a con- Others in the climbing community are tribution. If climbers get 5 percent off less optimistic about the willingness of on every drink and 10 percent off of a businesses on Kalymnos to contribute scooter rental, then the 30 euro pass is financially toward rebolting and main- very cost effective and everyone con- tenance, fearing that it would be seen tributes.” as a tax. Multiple study participants noted that the challenging Greek eco- In 2015, stakeholders on the island nomic context makes it even less politi- came together and attempted to cre- cally feasible to have a tax that benefits ate a climbing ID card. The card was climbing. expected to cost 20 euros and come with a booklet of vouchers worth over SUPPORT FROM CLIMBING 30 euros to be used at local business- TOURISTS es. Despite the coordinated attempts of the municipality, the Restaurateurs Many climbers interviewed in this study Association, the Kalymnos Rescue said they would be in support of pay- Team, the Hoteliers Association, and ing a fee in exchange for access to the others, the card “never really took off.” beautiful climbing on Kalymnos. Tobias Dörig, who manages accommodations NATIONAL PARK at Climbers Village, sees a climber fee as a viable and valuable path forward. There is discussion on the island about “I speak with my clients about this pos- making Kalymnos a national park. The- sibility,” he said. “They would happily odoropoulos believes that having a na- pay 20 euros. It would be easier if it tional park will help the island facilitate was included in all restaurant and hotel a fee system, track climber numbers, prices, but this could create new prob- protect the environment, and grow lems.” the climbing sustainably. “It will help us

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

know where to direct resources. Peo- a climbing area in mainland Greece, ple understand that climbing is a big worries some stakeholders on the is- deal on the island, but they think climb- land. “I have a lot of friends who do ing goes on by itself. The municipality two climbing trips in the year, and now thinks they are helping by putting on a they decide they want to spend their festival. They don’t ask us how to help.” Easter-time trip in Leonidio,” says Cha- likos. “In April, we haven’t got a direct flight to Kalymnos, so they prefer to go to Leonidio for one week or ten days “People understand around Easter. In the Autumn they are that climbing is coming here. Before Leonidio opened, a big deal on the they had only one choice. They went from Athens to Kos and then here. island, but they think They didn’t care if they lost two days climbing goes on by during the trip, because this was the itself” only way. But now it’s not the only way. They have many choices and there will be more.” He emphasizes that with competition for the interest of climbers A CLIMBING BUBBLE? increasing, seemingly small things like inconvenient plane flights can result in Among some stakeholders on the is- a large-scale loss of tourists. “Nobody land, there is a fear that Kalymnos could is waiting for us to do something about see a decline in climbing tourism if the the transportation to Kalymnos.” climbing isn’t well managed. “Now we are one of the top, but you never know Because of these challenges, Chalikos what can happen in five or ten years,” said: “I worry about my future and the said Chalikos. “We have to think about future of my children and my family, what can happen after many years, not and that’s why I can’t close my eyes to just what is happening now. We have the challenges. Some people do that. to think about the future—for our chil- I don’t like that. We have to wake up.” dren, and for our businesses.” The lack of data about the number of climbers on the island leads to some specula- tion about whether or not the rate of climbing tourism is remaining steady. The growing reputation of Leonidio,

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

24 Rob Carroll climbing at the Spartan Wall Photo by Veronica Baker CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

RECOMMENDATIONS

Increased collaboration between the Better environmental practices municipality, businesses, and climb- throughout the island. The burning of ers. More information sharing and joint trash and the amount of plastic used projects need to take place among on Kalymnos is unacceptable from an those directly or indirectly invested in environmental perspective. The mu- the future of climbing on the island. Be- nicipality should fix the water system cause the prosperity of the island relies and implement public waste-reduction upon climbing tourism, there should be campaigns. Additionally, the air and increased collaboration across shared noise pollution from scooters dramat- interests of all stakeholders. ically affects the feeling of peace and tranquility on the island. The municipali- Creation of a climbing association. ty should look into developing a shuttle Currently, a handful of Kalymnos-based route or encouraging shop owners to climbers are cumulatively playing the rent electric bicycles instead of scoot- roles normally carried out by a local ers in order to reduce environmental climbing organization. An organization impact. should exist to communicate with the municipality and the public, represent More data on visitors. By implement- the voices of the climbing communi- ing a simple program that surveys vis- ty, and oversee the strategy of climb- itors at the main port of entry to the ing development, route maintenance, island, the municipality can collect in- and stakeholder engagement. Recog- formation that will greatly inform their nizing the immense economic value knowledge of the scale and impact of that climbing tourism brings to the is- climbing tourism. This will enable them land, the municipality should provide a to more effectively allocate resources shared headquarters for the climbing and better support visiting climbers as association and the rescue team, as well as those who make the climbing well as annual funding to pay for equip- economy possible through route de- ment, training, and labor hours. velopment, maintenance, and rescue services.

RECOMMENDATIONS THE CLIMBING INITIATIVERECOMMENDATIONS

Rachael Bell climbing with a beautiful view of neighboring island Telendos Photo by Veronica Baker

Annual climber fee. Climbers on Consider a national park. Legal des- Kalymnos recognize that their abili- ignation as a national park could lead ty to enjoy the sport relies heavily on to better environmental practices the time and money of volunteers, and among visitors, increased respect for many would enjoy paying for a pass climbing development guidelines, and that supports their work and allows it enhanced protection for this incredi- to continue. Given that Kalymnos is an ble resource. It would also enable the island, it would be easy to collect the creation of a governance framework fee at the airport and the main sea port. through which to administer the fee, The income from the fee should go di- decide on how income from the fee rectly back into programs that maintain should be used, and create long-term and preserve climbing on Kalymnos strategies for the development and and should not directly benefit a small maintenance of the island. group of individuals.

RECOMMENDATIONS CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

27 Simon Montmory climbing at Balcony Helvetia (a sub-sector of Arhi) Photo by Nikolaos Smalios THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

CONCLUSIONS

Kalymnos is unique in the world. It is it. If Kos had just one climbing area like truly a climbing paradise: an island with the Grande Grotta, you can imagine pristine limestone, beautiful beaches, what they would be able to do with it. sweeping landscapes, and businesses Because they are more open-mind- specifically tailored to climbers. With ed, they are thinking more touristical- the advent of climbing, the island has ly—this is not always good, of course, gained a precious resource. “For me, because here on Kalymnos, it’s more the most important thing is for us to friendly and authentic. But they could do more than we are doing. Their politicians are more powerful, and they have the larger airport. So we have to All stakeholders must do some things to help our island. We recognize how vital need to do that for our better future.” climbing tourism is to As climbing becomes more and more their individual and central to life on Kalymnos, a social shift collective wellbeing is occurring. Kalymnians are founding businesses and benefiting from climbing tourism, but there is still a distinct “us and them” mentality. “The island understand what we have,” said Cha- must maintain its Greek tradition, but likos. “Many years before the climbers we must build a tighter community that started to come here, we were sad works together for the environment because we said, ‘God gave us these and for the economic development of stones and they gave our neighboring Kalymnos,” said Idoux. island, Kos, the land.’ Now, I am saying that maybe God knows why they gave To build this community, all stakehold- us the stone and gave the land to Kos. ers on Kalymnos must recognize how We have to respect the stone and to vital climbing tourism is to their individ- work up to this stone because now we ual and collective wellbeing. A neces- understand that it is a gift for us to have sary step is for more data to be collect-

CONCLUSIONS CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing on Kalymnos

ed on the number of climbers visiting vide services that are essential to the the island and the degree to which island’s tourism industry. If the island is they are impacting the island econom- to continue to be a climbing paradise, ically. Once the municipality, business- it is essential that the municipality and es, and climbers are on the same page local businesses become active and regarding the scale of climbing impact, engaged members of the climbing it is essential that they work together ecosystem. to determine how to best optimize the experience for climbers and support crucial services like route development, maintenance, and rescue. The For more case studies, visit island currently benefits from a system climbinginitiative.org in which a small number of people volunteer their time and money to pro-

Nick Jalbert climbing at the Iannis sector

Photo by Veronica Baker