Bromleag The newsletter of the Bromley Borough Local History Society March 2007

Keston’s lost mansion

High days and holidays in St Mary Cray

A very special boat Bromley Local History Society

Registered Charity No 273963

History is continually being made and at the same time destroyed, buildings are altered or demolished, memories fade and people pass away, records get destroyed or thrown in the bin. BBLHS was formed in 1974 so that those with an interest in the history of any part of the borough could meet to exchange information and learn more about Bromley’s history. We aim, in co-operation with the local history library, museums and other relevant organisations, to make sure at least some of this history is preserved for future generations. We hold regular meetings and produce a newsletter and occasional publications where members can publish their research.

Bromleag is published four times a year. The editor welcomes articles along with illustrations and photographs. These can be in paper copy, disk or e-mailed. Items remain the copyright of the authors and do not necessarily reflect Society views. Each contributor is responsible for the content of their article. Articles maybe edited to meet the constraints of the newsletter. Articles are not always used immediately as we try to maintain a balance between research, reminiscences and articles about different subjects and parts of the borough.

Editor Christine Hellicar 150 Worlds End Lane, Chelsfield, Kent BR6 6AS 01689 857214 [email protected]

Next journal deadline — Monday 7 May

Details of society officers and subscription rates see back cover.

2 Bromleag March 2007 Bromleag The newsletter of the Bromley Borough Local History Society

I hope you like your new compact Contents handy handbag or pocket sized Bromleag. Changes in the way postage is News P4-7 calculated meant the larger size was stretching the societies postage Letters P8-9 budget too far. There are lots of interesting items What’s On P10-11 this month from all parts of the borough and thank you to all of Society Meetings those who responded to my request The Massey Shaw P12-16 for articles. Some of which appear Kentish railways P16-17 in this issue. Not so local histories P18-19 If you are still wondering whether to put pen to paper or fingers to computer and write down your Features research please don’t hesitate any Hollydale mansion, Keston longer. P20-25 I f you have not published before Victorian days out in St Mary Cray and would like to have a chat about P26-30 how the magazine is edited, or Reminiscence would like advice on the best way Cudham and rural Bromley of presenting material for the P31 magazine, please give me a call.

Christine

March 2007 Bromleag 3 News

Saving our Generous heritage of subscriptions unique artefacts Bromley Museum is always on help BBLHS the lookout for those special Members have, once again, been artefacts — however trivial — very generous in giving extra that have a special connection donations when renewing their with the borough. subscriptions. Curator Adrian Green says: “We The BBLHS chairman, Tony are always looking for, and Allnutt, said: “I would like to thank accepting new items for the everyone who made a donation collection, but we are not over and above the annual undertaking a specific collecting subscription. I have been delighted project at the moment on the 20th with number of people who have century. been so generous when renewing “It is our policy to only accept their subscription. things that relate to the borough. If you have yet to renew this year We ask does it relate to a details are on the back of the particular Bromley person, was it newsletter. made locally, does it relate to a particular Bromley story? “The classic example I give is that a pre–1970 Morphy Richards Iron Free access to would qualify (although we have a few of them already) but not a Ancestry Kodak Camera.” The Morphy Bromley Local Studies Library has Richards factory began life in St taken out a subscription to Ancestry Mary Cray. Library edition. If you have anything gathering dust This will enable anyone visiting in the attic that you think might fit local studies to have free access to the bill, and you would like to see it censuses, births, marriages and preserved, then give Adrian a call deaths and other useful data, free of on 01689 873826 or email charge. [email protected] .

4 Bromleag March 2007 News Wanted — Programme Secretary In April Elaine Baker will be stepping down as programme secretary and we are looking for a BBLHS member to take over the role. Each year we hold 10 meetings with outside speakers, have a local studies visit and one other visit. The programme secretary is responsible for making the arrangements for these events. Members of the committee are on hand to help with suggestions for speakers and, if you are unable to attend all meetings, to meet and greet the speaker. Elaine will be happy to advise and help anyone talking on this role, so if you would like to know more give her a call on 01689 854408

Future meetings March to June 2007 Meetings are held at 7.45 pm on the first Tuesday of the month, from September to July, in the Methodist Church Hall, North Street, Bromley. The hall has free off-street parking, good public transport links and facilities for the disabled. Non-members are welcome at the society’s meetings for a nominal charge of £1.

6 March Maps and Plans: a brief history and an outline of their usefulness to the local historian - Tony Allnutt 3 April Annual General Meeting Arts and Craft Houses in Chislehurst — Roy Hopper 1 May The local Red Cross in the Great War — Joyce Walker 5 June Keston in Photographs from the late 19th century— Ted Williams

March 2007 Bromleag 5 News Historical congratulations

Among notable anniversaries this but the main focus is on national – year is one of special interest to and international – affairs. several members of BBLHS – and The branch celebrated at its annual that is the Diamond Jubilee of the dinner by inviting a “notable Beckenham and Bromley Branch sprinkling” of special guests who have of the Historical Association. “made their own particular impact on th In the 396 issue of their magazine the branch over the years”, and we the Beckenham Historian editor John wish them well, and many more Wagstaff recalls that the year “2007 annual dinners to come. sees the sixtieth anniversary of the For Beckenham and Bromley is still birth of the Beckenham and Bromley going strong, with an interesting branch – although purists will say programme of monthly talks [we put that, strictly speaking, it was just the out the list at our meeting last Beckenham branch back in 1947; it autumn] and a series of well-attended was eighteen years later and outings. Bromley was added to the name in th recognition of the creation of the new On March 17 they are going to London Borough of Bromley.” Kenwood House: I wonder if there are any spare seats? For some years the branch’s founder, Dr Derek Schove, ran a Patricia Knowlden local history group within the branch

A Perfect family history Pat Manning has produced yet another blockbuster. The title of this new magnum opus is In Pursuit of the Perfects, subtitled An anecdotal review of the descendants of the Parfaits in Britain and abroad and their spread overseas. Jointly written by Pat and her relative André Perfect, the book is A4 size, 200 pages long with 30 chapters and 40 pages of appendices, the latter being the family trees of Perfects from all over the world. It costs £16. The book is a private family venture for Perfect family relatives but anyone seeking the perfect (sic) model for family tree organisation and writing it is a very enjoyable read. Cliff Watkins

6 Bromleag March 2007 News Nearly new Hospital history and archive visit heritage for October Our speaker for the 2 October publisher meeting had not been finalised when this years programme was printed. For those writing their own local or Elaine has now arranged for Dr family histories Adrian Thomas to give a talk and looking to Medical Bromley – from the publish them workhouse to the PRUH. there may be As anyone who has been to Dr some good news. Thomas’s previous talks will The founder of know this will be an informative Sutton, the local history publishers, and entertaining evening. Alan Sutton who was sacked by new On the following Friday owners in 1993 and formed Tempus afternoon , 5 October, Dr Publishing, has acquired his old Thomas will host a visit for company back for £3 million - BBLHS members to the Princess apparently a modest sum, according Royal University Hospital, to The Guardian in an article dated Farnborough to view the hospital 3.2.07. archive that he has collected and Alan now plans to "build a global which is housed at the new local history and heritage publisher, hospital. which can mass-produce books tailored to the smallest towns and villages." There seems to be a conflict here between "mass-produce" and "the smallest village". I imagine Alan Sutton must be aware of family tree publishing. I will keep readers posted. Cliff Watkins

March 2007 Bromleag 7 Letters Kent’s history — read all about it In Bromleag December 2006 the editor claims on P9 that Bygone Kent is the only local history magazine in the country. The only one commercially produced, perhaps, but Kent History Federation issues a twice-yearly Journal of Kent History, copies of which are usually available at our April and October meetings. Articles are well researched and varied, and it also carries details of the 100 affiliated societies [including BBLHS] and their activities. It can also be supplied by Mrs Valerie Arrindell of Merlin, Goodwin Road, St Margaret’s Bay, Dover, Kent, CT15 6ED for £1 + 75p&p. She can also supply back copies. Anne a little young to go visiting The concept of Queen Anne [Boleyn] as a girl at prayer in West Wickham Church is very appealing [ Bromleag December 2006]. But as she was only three years old when great-aunt Lady Anne Heydon died in 1510, I think it not very likely. After that Wickham Court was leased to a yeoman farming family and Heydons never lived there again. Sir Henry and Lady Anne Heydon’s grandson Richard, who became a prosperous London lawyer, acted from time to time as steward to the estate in the 1520s, and it could be that the arrival of a richly dressed young[ish] gentleman on a fine horse gave rise to rumour among Wickham’s villagers that ‘the King has come to the Court’. But King Henry certainly never had any reason for any clandestine meetings, and Anne was far too wary to risk her reputation – to become Queen she had to be above suspicion. I really do apologise for throwing cold water on Wickham’s own legend. Local list for English Heritage photographs

Before the English Heritage London centre was so annoyingly closed and its contents moved to Swindon, I made a list [much longer than you would expect] of the photographs in the London Borough of Bromley box files. A copy has

8 Bromleag March 2007 Letters Researching childhood and parenthood in Victorian Bromley

Did your family live in the Bromley area in the nineteenth century? Have their letters, diaries, photographs or other family documents survived? I am a PhD student at the University of Cambridge and I am researching the history of parenthood and childrearing in late-Victorian and Edwardian England. I am studying this through four case studies of contrasting localities; the Bromley area was selected because I am interested in both the ways in which the rapidly growing middle-class population brought up their children, and in relationships between parents and children who were agricultural workers in this part of Kent I am interested in the ways in which mothers and fathers, who were living in Bromley, Beckenham, Orpington, Chislehurst or surrounding areas of Kent between 1860 and 1910, brought up their children. I am using the archives that have been deposited in Bromley Central Library, but I am also interested in finding out more about life in the Bromley area through the writings of the ‘ordinary’ people who lived there. If you would be willing to share your family's letters or diaries – or your own knowledge – with me, I would love to hear from you. More information about my research is available on this website: http://www-histecon.kings.cam.ac.uk/student_pooley.htm, Any assistance that you can offer would, of course, be fully acknowledged in my thesis. If you would like to know more about my research, please contact Sian Pooley by email ([email protected]), 07979 628004 Miss Sian Pooley, St John's College, Cambridge, CB2 1TP

March 2007 Bromleag 9 What’s on Discovering the Darent Valley The Darent Valley is the theme of this years spring archaeology conference being held by the Council for Kentish Archaeology at the Sevenoaks Community Centre, Otford Road, Sevenoaks on Saturday 14 April, 2.00 – 5.30 pm The Lost Valley – 2000 years in the upper Darent Valley will look at major discoveries, historical and oral traditions, landscapes and buildings. The speakers will be Brian Philp on Major discoveries in the Upper Darent Valley; Monty Parkin on East Hill – the changing way of life and Edwin Thompson on The beauty of the upper Darent Valley. Tickets are £4.00 and are available from CKA, Sandy Ridge, Borough Green, Kent, TN15 8HP. Cheques payable to C.K.A., SAE please. For more information see www.the-cka-fsnet.co.uk

Secrets of the Goldsmith’s Company spring exhibition The Goldsmiths’ Company, one of the twelve great livery companies of the City of London, will be opening its grand and impressive doors this month, March 5 – March 31, for an exhibition, Secrets of the Goldsmiths’ Company. On display will be silver, historical documents, architectural designs, paintings and a variety of other intriguing and miscellaneous artefacts and objects, which illustrate the Company’s long and distinguished past. The exhibits, many of which have never previously been on show to the public, come from Company’s own archives and library. The Goldsmiths, whose roots date back to the trade guilds of the Middle Ages, received their Royal Charter in 1327. Since 1300 they have been responsible for hallmarking gold and silver articles, and from 1975 platinum articles. A section of the exhibition is devoted to hallmarking. The oldest item on display is a Roman altar stone which was excavated during the building of the current hall in 1830. The hall is the third on the site at Foster Lane, EC2V 6BN

10 Bromleag March 2007 What’s On Bromley heritage talks The Heritage and Urban Design section of Bromley Council have two Bromley Heritage talks in March. The 45- 60 minute talks are held in the Committee Rooms at the Civic Centre, Stockwell Close. Admission is free but please arrive at 6.45 pm as the talks begin at 7 pm sharp. If you wish to attend email or phone: [email protected] 0208 5461 7646 March 7 – Sitka, a Newton house with an Alaskan Connection Sitka is a fine Ernest Newton designed house in Chislehurst, which was known for many years as the Sira Institute but is currently being redeveloped for residential use. Project director Stuart Holgate of St James Group will tell the story of one of Newton’s most well known houses and its original owner Emil Teichmann. March 21 – Mock Tudor Bromley Mock Tudor architecture with its picturesque cottage appearance and half- timbered gables is much loved by the public but has never really been taken seriously by the architectural profession. Doug Black’s illustrated talk will look at genuine Tudor buildings in Bromley, examine the rise of the Mock-Tudor style in the late 19th and 20th centuries and plot its post war decline. Examples will also be shown to illustrate its popular resurgence in recent years.

Musical connections at the museum On display for the first time, at Bromley Museum, the Priory, Orpington, is a unique piece of musical history recently acquired by the museum, a jacket owned by David Bowie when he was in his first band called the ‘Kon-rads’ in 1962. Bromley has a strong link with both 70s glam rock and punk. David Bowie, who grew up in Bromley, developed his ‘Ziggy Stardust’ character whilst living in Beckenham. The area was also home to the ‘Bromley Contingent’ – the notorious Sex Pistols fans who included Billy Idol and Siouxsie Sioux.

March 2007 Bromleag 11 Society meeting A very special ‘little boat’ —

In 1935 the took over a new fire float and they named her after their most revered former chief, Captain Eyre Massey Shaw. It was the history of this famous boat and the man she was named after that former fireman John Bell, in full fire brigade uniform, and his wife Margaret recounted for us at our November meeting. The Massey Shaw was the first fireboat in the world ever to pump foam and, still afloat today, she can pump out 3,000 gallons a minute – the equivalent of filling a bath in about one third of a second. The first fire shout - to use fire brigade terms - was in September 1935 when she attended a fire at Colonial Wharf in Wapping, but her greatest claim to fame is her role in the Dunkirk Evacuation. She went to tackle the huge oil fires, only the fires were out of control. But Shaw was an ideal ship to get in close to the beaches, though navigation of a vessel with a steel hull and an unswung compass was a problem and approaching Dunkirk it was about 10o off course. Consequently she went over a minefield, but with a low draft sailed safely over the top. Her huge great water monitor, painted grey, also caused a problem as both the Luftwaffe and the RAF thought it was a gunboat of the opposing side and both were shooting at her. The nearest that the Luftwaffe came to hitting her was a bomb which fell 50 feet astern of her. Mr Bell gave a detailed and fascinating account of her time at Dunkirk ending with her last trip – she is credited with being one of the last two boats to leave France – when she picked up survivors from a French trawler that had hit a mine. The crew gave them as much first aid as they could in the cabin but a French Lieutenant said: “I am an officer and a gentleman and I demand I have my own quarters”. So the crew put him into the ships’ toilet, which to this day is known as ‘the French lieutenant’s quarters’. He stayed in there for five and a half hours. The Massey Shaw made four trips to Dunkirk and transferred about 600

12 Bromleag March 2007 Society meeting the Massey Shaw fire float men to Ramsgate. Her crew were honoured both with personal medals and they were mentioned in dispatches. After Dunkirk she began tackling the fires in the docks and along the Thames during the blitz. As communications for fire fighters was vital, in 1942 she became the first fireboat in the world to be fitted with a radio. In 1947 the Massey Shaw had her next claim to fame. She was ordered to sail to Gravesend with Herbert Morrison and Aneurin Bevin on board. The crew were ordered to go ashore and wait. Morrison and Bevin were planning the NHS and a boat on the river was a good place for a private discussion. Although she had never been hit during the war, the war years had taken their toll and in 1948 she went for a much-needed overhaul. Her fame had spread and as well as tackling fires she was regularly called on to take visiting VIPs, MPs and councillors, as well as fire brigade chiefs from other brigades, down the Thames. She has stared in two films, Dunkirk and The Battle of Britain made in 1968. In this film she tackles a controlled fire in St. Katherine’s Dock. In fact, John told us, she had tackled a fire at the same warehouse during the blitz on London. In 1965 she was given the honour of leading the little ships over to Dunkirk to commemorate the 25th Anniversary. One of the firemen, who was part of the crew in 1965, was station officer Dick Helyer who was also one of the crew in 1940. The Massey Shaw was taken out of service in 1971. The plan was to preserve her but due to lack of funds little has been done. One of the schemes was to house her in a concrete pond in the middle of a high-rise block of flats at Thamesmead, however nothing came of this. John wondered how long she would have lasted as all the flats are now covered in graffiti. For years she was used as a gangway to shops in St Katherine’s dock, which were being preserved by the Maritime Trust. Then in 1982 a group of firemen and people who knew her history formed the Massey Shaw and Maritime Vessels Preservation Society to restore her to full working order for the 1985 crossing of the Dunkirk Little Ships. Dick Helyer made his third crossing on her to Dunkirk in the engine room, as he did in 1940. Continued on P15

March 2007 Bromleag 13 Society meeting

Who was Captain Eyre Massey Shaw? The Metropolitan Fire brigade looked long and hard to find a replacement for Chief Fire Officer who died in a fire at Tooley Street, Southwark in 1861. They selected Irishman and former army officer Captain Eyre Massey Shaw who had been in charge of the Belfast Fire Service. Shaw was to serve as Chief London Fire Officer for 30 years, the longest serving fire chief in the Captain Eyre Massey Shaw brigade’s history. He joined at a time when funding was switching from the insurance companies to the Government and he was largely responsible for making this work. He wrote the Fire Brigade Manual for London. John told us: “Everything he wrote about is still in practice today in London and the rest of the world. The only items in use today which he did not write about are breathing apparatus, use of foam and radio communications.” He also introduced the Safety Curtain in theatres, which did not make him very popular with the theatre owners. In his private life Capt. Shaw was a ‘ladies’ man’ and counted among his friends the Prince of Wales, later to become Edward VII. The Prince of Wales had a uniform specially kept for him at Charing Cross Fire Station and had left instructions that he was to be notified of any fire and, if he was free, he would come down to tackle it. Capt. Shaw’s home was Winchester House in Southwark Bridge Road. It now houses the London Fire Brigade Museum and is the London Fire Brigade’s HQ. When the and the Government began to take more control of the service Capt Shaw, resenting the intrusion, decided to retire. On the day of his retirement he was at Buckingham Palace being knighted. He is still revered by fire fighters today and is still referred to as The Boss.

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Continued from P13 In 1987 the boat went to Oxford for the 100th Anniversary of Capt Massey Shaw and HRH Princess Alice inspecting the newly appointed Oxford Fire Brigade, allowing the boat to claim the distinction of going to the Head of the River. This is something granted to any boat that goes up as far as the Thames is navigable by that boat. Numerous pumping displays were given at Oxford. On the way back she was also asked by the Reading Fire Brigade to stop and give displays. She again returned to Dunkirk for the 50th and 60th anniversaries. During the 50th crossing, still with Dick Helyer in the engine room, there was a force eight gale and the crossing took nine hours. In 1995 she took part in the sail past during the VJ Day celebrations. The Queen asked that the Massey Shaw lead the little ships as they sailed past the Royal Yacht Britannia, as the Massey was unique in the fleet as the only little ship that genuinely took part in the Battle of Britain and the Blitz on London. Another claim to fame was the Woolwich Ferry stopped to let her past. Even the Royal Yacht Britannia had to stop for the Woolwich Ferry. She is now having a major overhaul of her engines, by next year she will be in full working order and able to take part in the Thames festivals. In 2004 the London Fire Brigade handed her over to the Massey Shaw

March 2007 Bromleag 15 Society meeting

Preservation Society and they have applied for funding from the Heritage Lottery Fund. John said that amongst the plans for her future is to take her again to Dunkirk in 2010

The Massey Shaw is currently moored at Royal Arsenal Pier, Woolwich with open days and special visits by schools and clubs.

Kentish conflict on the rails

Brian Reynolds reports on a talk by Neil Lloyd at our December 2006 meeting

Those of our members who are train buffs- and I suspect quite a few who are not - were fascinated by Neil Lloyd’s presentation of the history of railways in the county of Kent from their beginning up to the creation of British Rail. There are many claims and counter claims about which railway was the first to begin operation in this country. In the main it depends on how you define operation. But in Kent, with the establishment of the Canterbury to Whitstable Company we can truthfully claim to have been the first county to have passenger-carrying trains. This company began operation with steam hauled passenger carrying on 3 May 1830.

16 Bromleag March 2007 Society meeting

The Liverpool to Manchester railway, which gets much more publicity, did not begin operation until15th September 1830. Interestingly, Neil produced a schedule of the opening dates of all the railways in Kent, from the Canterbury and Whitstable in 1830 right up to the mid-Kent line from Lewisham to Beckenham Junction in 1857. What a hectic period that must have been. Neil also displayed a map of the county at that time showing all the railways. He even touched on the atmospheric trials on the London to Croydon railway, a system pioneered by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, which failed spectacularly. One reason given was that rats were eating away the leather seals of the vacuum pipes on which the trains depended because they were impregnated with fat, which attracted the animals! He followed the history of the building of the railways by some very interesting slides showing the engineering works that were carried out in the construction of these lines, some of which were breathtaking. He then went on to discuss the merger of the smaller companies into the two main ones, the London, Chatham & Dover Company and the South Eastern Company which were controlled by two Chairmen, James Staats Forbes of the LCDR and Sir Edward Watkin of the SER. Both men ruled their companies tyrannically and hated the very mention of the other’s name. Eventually they were bleeding their companies dry by unrealistic competition and, much against their better judgement, they formed the South Eastern and Chatham Railway in 1898. This company operated until the big merger in 1923 of all the small railways to form the four big companies, the London Midland and Scottish Railway, London and North Eastern Railway, the Great Western Railway and the Southern Railway. Southern Railway operated until the formation of British Rail in 1948. Neil’s talk was very well illustrated with some very interesting slides, some of which were almost historic. For instance he showed the workings of the original Channel Tunnel (still in existence) and the workings of the present one, and of the trials of the atmospheric railway held in Crystal Palace Park. All in all a very interesting evening and not one to be missed by train buffs like me.

March 2007 Bromleag 17 Society meeting Dipping into history over the borders

For our first meeting of the year our Chairman Tony Allnutt took us on a tour of our neighbours to the north and east through the pages of his own collection of local history books from the ‘dry and dusty’ to the idiosyncratic. His collection spreads out geographically from Chislehurst, a district that has had a rather elastic border with Sidcup and Eltham and parts of which have got tidied up over the 20th century into one borough or the other. Chislehurst is well documented with several books including the very weighty 1899 The History of Chislehurst by Webb, Miller and Beckwith. This chronicles the good and the great, church and gentry but also has some “itineraries pointing out the local houses rather than the manorial mansions.” In contrast Arthur Battles’ Edwardian Chislehurst is a social history as Arthur, a baker born in 1889, gives a much more intimate and pictorial picture from the early 20th century. Both books are currently in print and are available in local bookshops. Our near neighbour Sidcup is not well served for local histories. Tony described it as a “non-place par excellence”. But there is still a lot of accurate information collected, but not written up, by the late Beverly Nunns, Sidcup Librarian. His wife Gertrude has written a history of Foots Cray, in the past far more important place than Sidcup. Eltham is well supplied with histories though the concentration is on the royal connections and the Palace. For those looking for something to encompass a wider view Tony recommended Eltham in Old Photographs by John Kennett, praising both the choice of pictures and the accompanying text. Travelling further Tony produced some mighty tomes on both Woolwich and Dartford with titles that belied more interesting interiors. Dartford Historical Notes, 1844, he described as a “collection of interesting and useful things”. But the volume that is clearly one of his favourites is W T Vincent’s The Records of the Woolwich District. He said: “There is no attempt with this book to tell a coherent story but it is

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packed full of interesting information, a mixture of odd things and snippets of information.” As an example he quoted the delightful tale of the Cadets tails. “In 1798 it was directed that those cadets whose length of hair would not permit of the regulation queue of four inches were to use their endeavours to promote its growth as much as possible: and any one who should crop his hair was to be degraded until his queue had acquired the regimental length. Further, in 1799, the queue was ordered to be ten inches long, and the Academy hairdresser was authorized to supply false tails to the gentlemen who needed them. All who cropped were to be confined to the Green [a space in front of the Academy] until it was long enough to tie again. But the arbitrary fashion did not last very long. In 1801 queues were made optional and hair powder abolished.” Such are the gems that bring the past alive.

A good read — share your favourite book Many of us have a collection of local history books that we have collected on our travels, mostly connected to our personal historical or family interests. But sometimes you come across a book that is a delight because of the quality of the writing, the breadth of the research or is just idiosyncratic and catches the imagination. It brings alive a place or subject in which you would normally have no interest. Do you have such a book in your collection? Why not write a short review for Bromleag to share its delights with fellow members.

March 2007 Bromleag 19 Feature

Behind the old brick wall —

here is an old, low red brick wall beside the Croydon Road at Keston Mark. T To the rear of this, behind iron gates and tall iron railings, once stood a large imposing mid-18th century house named Hollydale. The house was demolished in the mid-1930s but just a little further along the road the red brick stable block, with its clock in the centre gable and bell turret above, remains. It is of a slightly later date but was adjacent to the main house. Originally owned by the Kirkpatrick family, Hollydale was their county seat for four generations. A country retreat from India ames Kirkatrick, MD, 1701 – 1770, an author of a minor medical work, was J the first owner of Hollydale and resided there for various periods throughout his life until he finally retired there. His son, also James Kirkpatrick, 1729 – 1818, became a captain in the East India Company and was the occupier of Hollydale in 1779. He and his sons were to play important roles in India while retaining Hollydale as their home in England. James rose to become a colonel and was universally known as “the handsome colonel”. He served the Company army in Madras and subsequently was commander of Fort Marlborough, Sumatra. He married in 1762 in Madras, Katherine Munro eldest daughter of Dr Andrew Munro founder of the Madras hospital. Two sons were born to this marriage, George in 1763 and James Achilles in 1764, unfortunately eighteen months later their mother died. Prior to the birth of George and James, in 1756, an illegitimate son, William, had also been born to “the handsome colonel”. James Kirkpatrick retired to, and died at, Hollydale but was buried at St Clement Danes church in the Strand where there was a memorial plaque to him and his son William on the north wall. It was destroyed when the church was burned down on 10 May 1941 during the Blitz.

20 Bromleag March 2007 Feature Keston’s lost mansion By Leonard Smith The Kirkpatrick brothers illiam had been born when “the handsome colonel” was a bachelor, W boarded at a school in Ireland. His father supported him and when old enough James purchased his illegitimate son a military cadetship in the East India Company; but his younger brothers were unaware of William’s existence until the 1880s. In 1784 William was staying at Hollydale but by the following year he was in Calcutta where he married Maria Pawson, there were four daughters from this marriage. He rose rapidly in the Company’s army becoming British Resident at the courts of Scindia and of the Nazim of Hyderabad. As Lord Wellesley [the Duke of Wellington] stated, William rose “on his merits”, attaining the rank of lieutenant colonel.

The rear of Hollydale House, Kestonpposite

Home from India: Hollydale House

March 2007 Bromleag 21 Feature

Stable and park preserve the memory of Hollydale The stable buildings, which are all that remain of Hollydale house, are just inside the northern boundary of Keston Parish. The park and lakes, which were part of the original grounds perpetuate the name of the house. Prior to the 1930s they extended up to the main Hastings Road and are in Bromley Common. The existing buildings were originally stabling for horses and three coach houses with accommodation for staff on the first floor. The right hand elevation of the building was damaged in 1941 by a German bomb which fell on the house next door. The whole structure is now converted into domestic units. Sections of the brick enclosed kitchen garden wall can be seen from the public park and the rear of the stable building itself. A clearer view can be obtained from Cedars Crescent. A spring fed stream, which rises in Holwood, flows under Croydon Road then through what was the kitchen garden, and by damming, provided water for the lakes in the park. This attractive area was created with a variety of trees and shrubs traversed by pathways, and parts of the park remain unchained even today. The rear and most important entrance to Hollydale was from the Hastings Road with an entrance lodge, large painted wood gates, matching side panels and fencing [approximate position of Lakeside Drive from the Hastings Road]. The driveway followed roughly the route of Rowan Walk to the junction with Lakeside Drive through a beautiful avenue of Lime trees, many of which remain to this day. To the rear of the house, much extended over the years, a sweeping drive, lawns, fountain and flower beds. To the rear of the kitchen garden there was an ice house for preserving food. The remainder of the land to the north divided into meadows with trees and small copses and near the lake two summer houses. Some lovely mature trees still remain, including a magnificent Maple tree on the green area of Cedar Crescent.

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William was not just an army man but also a Persian scholar and linguist and in 1793 was the first Englishman to cross the high mountain range between Bengal and Nepal to mediate with the Chinese, who had invaded Tibet, Nepal having implored the help of Britain. In 1800 he became military secretary and chief political adviser to Lord Wellesley, who said that his skill and knowledge of the customs, manners, and laws of India were unequalled. After the death of their mother, George, the second son of the ‘handsome colonel’, and his brother James were, presumably, brought up by Indian servants and nursemaids until they returned three years later, with their father, to England. The two boys attended various schools in England and France with a short period at Eton. Their father having set off east again, George and James spent their holidays with the grandfather at Hollydale. There is in Keston Church, on the interior north wall of the chancel, a fine marble relief memorial to George Kirkpatrick of the Honourable East India Civil Service, who died at Hollydate in 1838. In the churchyard of Keston Parish Church, at the northeast corner of the church, there is a stone table tomb to his two sons and the Kirkpatrick family. James Achilles Kirkpatrick, the youngest Memorial in Keston Church to son, returned to India in 1779, his father George Kirkpatrick having obtained for him a cadetship in the East India Company in Madras. He rose to the rank of major in the Company’s army, like his elder half-brother he became British Resident at the Court of the Nizam of Hyderabad. He also became thoroughly orientalised adopting local customs, and was very successful in the Company’s political service.

March 2007 Bromleag 23 Feature

In 1800 he formally married a highborn Indian Muslim woman, Begum Khair Un-Nissa, and embraced the Islamic religion. This was of grave concern to British interests, provoking a high level enquiry. Two children were born. In1801 a son Mir Ghulam Ali, Sashib Allum and in 1802 a daughter, Noor un-Nissa, Sahib Begum. Both children were instructed in the Muslim faith, dressed in Indian clothes and became part of Indian family life. Their father’s health deteriorated and he left Hyderabad for Calcutta where he died on 5 October 1805, aged forty-one, and was given a military funeral. The two children were quickly booked on a ship for passage to England. They were now known as William George and Katherine Aurora Kirkpatrick (Kitty), names they would retain for the remainder of their lives. Accompanied by a Mrs Ure, a doctor’s wife, and three servants they landed at Portsmouth, journeyed to London where they were met by their uncle William, and soon after, in March 1806, the children were baptised Christian, the link with India severed.

24 Bromleag March 2007 Feature

Their Indian mother Hegum Khair-un Nissa, separated from her children and with her health failing, gradually faded away and finally died in September 1813. William and Kitty grew up at Hollydale but William suffered an accident and died in 1828, aged 27. His sister Kitty married Capt James Phillips of the 7th Hussars in 1829 and died at Torquay in 1889 aged 87 So ended the last direct personal connection between Hollydale and the East India Company. Hollydale into the 20th century

here were a number of owners and occupiers of Hollydale after the T Kirkpatrick family including, at the end of the 1880s, the Earl of Derby when he was Secretary of State for the Colonies. He also owned Holwood and Keston Lodge, late Keston Park Hotel and now houses of Keston Park Close. In the 1920s Major Higgins OBE, MC resided at Hollydale. The owner, in 1935, was Walter Holland. In 1938 he moved to 32 Croydon Road, the old stable buildings, for short period. These remained unaltered and during the war years were occupied by tenants. About this time a Miss Holland became the owner [possibly the sister of Walter]. She acquired the remainder of the grounds of the estate, part having already been sold for development, and also purchased and resided in the house named The Cedars off Oakley Road, at the rear the two properties met. An area of land was sold off with the lakes to Bromley Council to become a park and recreation ground. Miss Holland continued to own the stable building and retained some of the meadows. She continued to live at The Cedars until 1940, when it was requisitioned by the RAF. Hollydale recreation park, lakes and the original stable block perpetuate the name of a house which stood there for possibly two hundred years.

Further reading: the Kirkpatrick family’s story in India is told in William Dalrymple’s White Moghals, published by Harper Collings, 2002

March 2007 Bromleag 25 Feature Great days out for Victorian

Extracts from the St Mary Cray Parish magazines of the 1890s, transcribed by Paul Rason, shows the spiritual and physical care that was given to poor children and to the fruit pickers by the parish.

September 1890. No 153. London children’s holiday fund n Saturday, August 2nd, the Vicar and several Motherly Women met the O train arriving at 11.47 to receive forty children in connection with the above Fund, who came to stay a fortnight in these parts. Seventeen were dispatched to S. Paul’s Cray, and twenty-three were located in our Village. During their stay they were most kindly entertained at tea (those here) by Mr. Spicer, and those at St. Paul’s Cray by the Rev. J. G. Gardner, on Wednesday, August 13th. They returned home on Saturday August 16th shortly before noon, heartily expressing how much they had enjoyed their stay, and the way they had been taken care of, and showing by their brown faces how much good their stay had done them. The weather during their stay was all that could be desired. September 1890. No 153. Sunday school treats n Thursday, August 14th the scholars, teachers and some of their friends, O numbering in all 112 children and 27adults, went to the Crystal Palace. The party left St. Mary Cray Station at 12.44 and arrived at Penge Station a little after one - walking at once to the Palace. Here the party dispersed to enjoy themselves in their own way till five o’clock, when all re-assembled and walked to the room in the Palace, where a splendid tea was served. After tea the Vicar briefly thanked Dr Allfrey, superintendent of the Sunday School, on behalf of the children and himself, for the pains and trouble he had taken in collecting the funds for the treat and the admirable arrangements he had made for their day’s outing. He concluded by urging all the children to attend regularly, as only the very regular ones would be permitted to attend the treat next year.

26 Bromleag March 2007 Feature children in St Mary Cray

Dr Allfrey briefly replied thanking all present for their kind expressions and stating what a pleasure he felt it to do anything to help towards the efficiency of the Sunday School. All then dispersed till 8.30, when they re-assembled to witness a most admirable display of fireworks, after which the party returned home, all declaring what a very enjoyable time they had spent. Infants unable to go on the 14th were entertained at tea and games on Friday, August 22nd, in the Vicarage Garden. October 1890. No 154. he Annual Treat in connection T with the above Schools took place on Thursday, August 28th. A short service, conducted by the Vicar, was held at the Church, at 1.30. Several hymns were sung, and the Vicar delivered a brief Address. At the conclusion of the Service the children assembled at the Vicarage, where they were marshalled into order by their master, Mr. Algar, and, St Mary Cray Parish Church accompanied by Mrs. Algar and their teachers, marched to Kevington Park, where they were received by Mrs. Berens and family and some friends. After singing some part songs they dispersed for games of all kinds. An excellent tea was partaken of at 4.30. After tea there was a capital display of Afternoon Fireworks. Next, races for toys took place, which afforded immense amusement. At the conclusion, the children, having been arranged in order, Mr. Berens and the Vicar addressed them briefly. The prizes, consisting of some splendid books, were then distributed by Mrs. Berens the prizes [were] for those answering so well in the Religious Examination. The Vicar desires to thank all who so kindly subscribed to supply the children with prizes, toys, etc. The weather was all that could be desired. October 1890. No 154.

March 2007 Bromleag 27 Feature

Choir treat wing to the persistent energies of our Choir-master and Organist, Mr. O Gorman, sufficient money was collected for a treat for the Members of the choir, a party, mostly made up of the juvenile members, accompanied by the Vicar and a few of the adult members, left Cray on Thursday, September 4th, at four minutes to ten, and went to London, under the guidance of Mr. Gorman. A visit was paid to St Paul’s Cathedral, afterward the party journeyed to Old Swan Pier, and went by boat to Greenwich. A visit was paid to the splendid Hospital, where the paintings and contents of the Museum were much admired. At 2.30 the party left Greenwich, and proceeded by boat to the Royal Military Exhibition, where, after witnessing a Balloon Ascent, a capital tea was partaken of. The day’s pleasure wound up with a visit to the Christy Minstrels. The arrangements made by Mr. Gorman were excellent, and every member of the party expressed themselves highly pleased with the day’s enjoyment. The Vicar thanks all those who so kindly subscribed towards the treat. October 1890. No 154

Hard life: Fruit pickers, Crockenhill Road, St Mary Cray

28 Bromleag March 2007 Feature Looking after the spiritual welfare of the fruit pickers

Fruit pickers’ mission he work amongst the Pickers has now finished. During the past Season T eight Missionaries have been employed, and a real good work has been done. The accounts and reports of the work in the various Parishes will shortly be printed and circulated. July 1891. No 163. Rescue and religious work amongst pickers Church Army Officer is resident in our parish during the Fruit Picking A Season to meet the spiritual needs of the Immigrants. The vicar will be glad of the aid of any parishioners to help either by singing or speaking at the services. Contributions towards the work will be thankfully received by the Vicar. March 1893. No 183. Fruit pickers mission society meeting of the above was held at the Vicarage, on Friday, February 10th, at A 5 o’clock. The Rural Dean in the chair, The Hon. Sec and Treasurer, Rev. E. Ball, read the report and accounts, which had been duly audited. The report showed that 8 Missionaries had been at work amongst 4,824 pickers, that 4,752 visits had been paid to different huts, 18 children had been baptized, 25 sick cases had been visited and cared for. 10.230 tracts, & and 300 portions of the word of God had been given away, and that 193 Sunday and 216 week-day services had been held. The amount received was £100 2s 2d., and that expended £102 19s. 3d,. leaving a balance due to treasurer of £2 17s. 1d. August 1893. No 188 Fruit pickers’ mission Tea in connection with the above Mission was held on Friday evening, July A 14th, in a field belonging to Mr. Haines, to the pickers employed by him. Seventy sat down to an excellent tea at quarter to eight, after tea addresses were delivered by the Rev. E. Ball, Hon. Sec. and Mr. Melling, the Missionary who has been working amongst them. Hearty cheers were given for Mr. Haines,

March 2007 Bromleag 29 What’s On

who had so liberally subscribed to the tea, and for Mrs. Ball and all who had helped at the tea. On Tuesday, July 18th, a tea was given to the pickers remaining at Mr. H. Figgess’, Mr. Wing’s, Mr. Jackson’s, and Mr. Allen’s at Mr. Jackson’s farm at 7.30. after tea a short service was held in which Mr. T. Simmons, Mr. Melling, and the Rev. E. Ball took part. At its conclusion one of the pickers proposed a hearty vote of thanks to all their employers and all who had assisted at the tea, calling for a hearty cheer. The behaviour of the pickers at the teas was all that could be desired, not a single rude or bad word being heard. n Thursday, July 20th, all the Missionaries were entertained by the Vicar O and Mrs. Ball. Service, with Holy Communion, was held at the Church at 11.30. Dinner was served at the Vicarage at 1.15. A conference took place at quarter to 4, and followed by tea at 5.30. The Mission Work of the Society will terminate next week.

January 1980. No 145 Postal information

Letters are despatched from Post Office on Week days at 9.25 a.m., 12.25, 3.0, 9.15, and 9.50 p.m. On Sundays at 6 p.m. Wall Box at Reynolds Smiths cleared on Week days at 8.35 and 11.30 a.m., 2.10 and 8.25 p.m. Deliveries of Letters and Parcels in Village commence 7.30 a.m., 2.15 and 7.15 p.m. Parcels are despatched at 9.20 a.m., and 9.45 p.m. No parcels despatched or delivered on Sundays.

30 Bromleag March 2007 Reminiscences

Thoughts from abroad Reading BBLHS publication In and around Bromley at the turn of the century sparked some youthful memories, particularly of Cudham, for Fred Roles of Ontario Canada. He wrote to our secretary Patricia Knowlden:

“Thank you for kindly sending the book. One or two of my ancestors came from there [Cudham}. We used to cycle there from Bellingham as a family and the thing I remember most was a very steep hill, which we used to call the ‘Cudham Test Hill’ as back in the 1930s it was a real test for a car to get up it. * Did it go to Biggin Hill? I can’t remember exactly where Biggin Hill was … it was so beautiful around there and we used to gather bluebells and primroses. Bluebells don’t grow here – the winter is too cold I think. Chelsfield was also good as that is where the Eyles family came from – Mary Ann Eyles who married a Roles was born there, as where her parents. Farnborough, of course, is the major link with my Roles ancestors – the church of St Giles the Abbott has records of their marriages and births back in the 1700s. That’s when they appear to have been paupers and could not pay anything towards their many kids’ baptisms … Beckenham was close to Bellingham and we went there quite often. That was where the ‘posh’ people lived and we used to climb over garden walls, which had broken glass on top, to ‘scrump’ apples and peaches. My father was a fireman and although he had a regular income, we were fairly poor and lived in the rented LCC houses [two bedrooms] on the Bellingham estate, and I will remember the unheated bathroom upstairs etc. Hayes, Downe and Keston were frequently visisted places. Keston ponds were for fishing trips and Caesar’s Well was a must for a cool drink of water. I also remember a Windmill at Downe. Is it still there?” [He probably means the Keston Windmill]. *In the early 1930s the hill was indeed used for motorcycle trials.

March 2007 Bromleag 31 Society officers

Chairman and Membership Secretary Dr Anthony Allnutt Woodside, Old Perry Street, Chislehurst, BR7 6PP 020 8467 3842 [email protected]

Secretary Mrs Patricia Knowlden 62 Harvest Bank Road, West Wickham, BR4 9DJ 020 8462 5002

Treasuer/Publications Officer Brian Reynolds 2 The Limes, Oakley Road, Bromley, BR2 8HH 020 8462 9526 [email protected].,uk

Programme Secretary Elaine Baker, 27 Commonside, Keston, BR2 6BP 01689 854408 [email protected]

Subscription Rates Yearly subscription from 1 January Individual £8.50; couple £10. Senior citizens pay a re- duced rate of £6 per person or £8 for a couple. Members joining after 30 June pay half rates.

32 Bromleag March 2007