MAHARASHTRA 799 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Ajanta Ellora ( P825 )

MAHARASHTRA 799 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Ajanta Ellora ( p825 ). Pune Nasik Matheran Pune Konkan Coast ( p812 ) Ajanta ( p809 ) ( p818 ) Ellora ( p820 ) and then chug back ) and then chug back p820 ( ( p801 ), and its colourful riverside p801 ( Nasik temples and tumbling fortresses on the and tumbling fortresses on the temples Konkan Coast Matheran home on a toy train Buddhist art in the jungle at Temple, the shining jewel of the cave the shining jewel of the cave Temple, at temples to ghats

courts tennis) in (Zen Search for snakes and ‘zennis’ beaches, elephant Hunt out serene Gallop on a horse to Echo Point in for hiding a gallery of Ponder the reasons dwarfed by the monumental Kailasa Feel heading of pilgrims Follow in the footsteps

„ „ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

In the northcrashing colours, timeless ritual and Hindu Nasik, a city of legend. In there’s

of India, leaving much of this diverse state to the explorers. state of India, leaving much of this diverse make only a brief artistic scurrying away to other corners Ellora and Ajanta before pause at one of the most vibrant and rewarding corners of India, yet despite this, most travellers this, most travellers corners of India, yet despite one of the most vibrant and rewarding Ellora and Ajanta), that really steals the show. Whatever way you look at it, Maharashtra is the show. Whatever steals Ellora and Ajanta), that really of architectural and artistic wonders (topped by the World Heritage–listed cave temples of temples and artisticof architectural cave wonders (topped by the World Heritage–listed dous views and colonial-flavoured hill stations. But it’s the centre, with its treasure house with its treasure But it’s the centre, hill stations. dous views and colonial-flavoured for their money and in the hills of the Western Ghats, morning mists lift to reveal stupen- morning mists lift to reveal Ghats, the hills of the Western for their money and in coast a rash of little-trodden a run tropical dreams Goa’s beaches and collapsing forts give the adventurous can set out in search of tigers hidden in a clump of national parks. On the parks. of tigers hidden in a clump of national can set out in search the adventurous introductions to India anyone could want. Out in the far east of the state towards Nagpur, introductions state could want. Out in the far east of the to India anyone palaces, wrestling pits and overwhelming temples of Kolhapur make for one of the best temples pits and overwhelming palaces, wrestling famous for its sex guru as its bars and restaurants. Further south still, the old maharaja’s Further as its bars and restaurants. famous for its sex guru the south you can come face to face with modern India at its very best in Pune, a city as best in Pune, face to face with modern India at its very the south you can come India. India. heart. Within this massive framework are all the sights, sounds, tastes, and experiences of all the sights, sounds, tastes, heart. framework are this massive Within greens of the little-knowngreens Konkan of India’s beating Coast right into the parched innards Sprawling Maharashtra, India’s second most populous state, stretches from the gorgeous from the gorgeous Sprawling Maharashtra, stretches most populous state, India’s second Maharashtra MAHARASHTRA 800 0 50 km MAHARASHTRA 0 30 miles

Khandwa MAHARASHTRA 69 Tapi River GUJARAT Ramtek Chikhaldara Raipur Surat Gulf of Burhanpur Bhusawal Bhandara Khambhat Melghat 6 Nagpur Amalner Wildlife 8 Jalgaon Sanctuary Amravati Navagaon Dhulia Sevagram Paunar National Fardapur Park Malegaon Akola Wardha Daman Buldhana Ajanta Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve 43 3 Manmad 7 Nasik Ellora Daulatabad Lonar MADHYA Trimbak Pandav Chandrapur Aurangabad Lonar PRADESH Igatpuri Leni Jalna Meteorite Shirdi Crater Kondagaon Paithan Godavari River

Thana Parbhani Kalyan 50 Nanded Jagdalpur Mumbai Matheran Ahmednagar (Bombay) Karjat Mumbai-Pune Expwy Ferry Karla (Mumbai-Mandva) Khandala Mandva Caves Mumbai-Pune Hwy Alibag Lonavla 4 211 50 Nizamabad Chaul Bhaja Pune Caves Kashid Roha Latur Murud Indapur Sinhagad Barsi Janjira Raigad Deccan ORISSA Konkan Coast Mahad Plateau ANDHRA Panchgani PRADESH Warangal Pratapgad 9 W e s t e r n Mahabaleshwar 9 Sholapur Chiplun Satara Pandhapur Secunderabad

17 Gulbarga Hyderabad Ganpatipule Krishna River Ratnagiri 4 Miraj Vijayawada Panhala A r a b i a n G h a t s Bijapur Kolhapur 7 S e a lonelyplanet.com

4 KARNATAKA

Malvan 13 Sindhudurg Kudal B a y Tarkarli Beach Belgaum o f B e n g a l Panaji To Margoa GOA (40km) MAHARASHTRA 801 (nose) of Ravana’s(nose) thus sister, of (8 Twin Centre, Vakil Wadi Rd; per hr Rs 20; (8 Twin Centre, (MG Rd) Has a 24-hour ATM. nasika nasika September to mid-June (hills) to mid-June September 96.8 million Population: 307,690 sq km Area: Mumbai (Bombay) Capital: language: Marathi Main to go: October When to March (coast); 0253 / pop 1.2 million / elev 565m 0253 / pop 1.2 million / elev 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) Near Hotel FAST FACTS FACTS FAST „ „ „ „ „

Nasik also serves as a base for pilgrims giving the city its name. giving the city its name. here. town just east of Information Cyber Café HDFC Bank exiled here and it’s where Lakshmana and it’s where hacked exiled here off the (79km ) and Shirdi p804 visiting Trimbak ( Sai Baba. the original southeast), birthplace of host to the Kumbh Nasik plays 12 years Every gathering on earth. religious the largest Mela, The next one is due in 2019, but a smaller is held Mela), (Half gathering, Ardha Mela p1136. text, seeevery six years; boxed the Orientation known as MG Gandhi Rd, better Mahatma the Old Cen- blocks north of Rd, a couple of tral bus stand, is Nasik’s commercial hub. The flows through River Godavari temple-strewn remote places. remote NORTHERN MAHARASHTRA NASIK % ho- India’s one of Standing on the Godavari, Nasik (also known as Nashik) is liest rivers, you can’t walk more town where the kind of without tripping over steps than a couple of or colourful bathing yet another exotic temple ghat. It’s an absorbing and exciting place and has many associations with the Hindu epic Ramayana. Lord Rama Sita were and his wife rations. Otherwise there are plenty of trains trains of plenty are rations. Otherwise there long-distance buses,and private with rickety state transport buses connecting up the more h Panchavati. 9.45am- h (MTDC; Map p776 ; NORTHERN •• Nasik MAHARASHTRA is in Mumbai. Most major towns is in Mumbai. Most major

22026713; Madame Cama Rd, Nariman Point;

From the early 18th century the Maratha 18th century the Maratha From the early

After Independence, western Maharash- Independence, western After History History Because you might want is so large the state flights internal (eg to consider taking few a Mumbai to Nagpur) to speed up your explo- also players. also players. Getting Around Maharashtra’s main transport hub is Mumbai main transport hub is Maharashtra’s ), although Pune, Nasik and Nagpur are p793 ( Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Rs 1200 and up are hit with a 10% tax. Some Rs 1200 and up are tax also levy (up hotels an extra expenditure do not include to 10%). Rates in this chapter tax otherwise High-season unless indicated. but prices might quoted rise higher are rates as Diwali. still during holidays such In Maharashtra rooms costing Rs 1199 or rooms costing Rs 1199 or In Maharashtra tax, while those that are a 4% charged less are MTDC accommodation and tours. accommodation MTDC ACCOMMODATION throughout the state have offices, too, but offices, too, but throughout the state have only useful for booking generally they’re % 5.30pm Mon-Sat) The head office of Maharashtra Tourism Tourism Maharashtra The head office of Development Corporation Information Information rior regions to be hot; for some respite head to to be hot; for some respite rior regions Ghats. the Western the hill stations of The monsoon hits most of Maharashtra hard Maharashtra of The monsoon hits most of rest The through to September. from May the year you can expect the coastal and inte- once again separated. The state is currently once again separated. The state is currently coalition. controlled by a Congress-NCP Climate its capital and was formed in 1960 when the were Gujarati-speaking areas and Marathi- tra and Gujarat were joined to form Bombay tra and Gujarat were state Today’s as has Mumbai (Bombay) state. much tussling, the British barged them aside. tussling, the British barged much empire came under the control of the Peshwas, Peshwas, the of came under the control empire 1819 when, after power until who retained is credited for instilling a strong, independent a strong, independent for instilling is credited people. the region’s spirit among Deccan and conquered more than 300 forts than 300 forts more conquered Deccan and still highly respected, Shivaji, during his reign. and later Raigad, the he controlled and later from where With a relatively small army, Maratha leader army, Maratha small With a relatively (1627–80) established a base at Pune Shivaji lonelyplanet.com MAHARASHTRA and Lakshmana, the temple stands onthesite thetemple stands and Lakshmana, sual black-stonerepresentations Sita of Rama, temple. unu- Datingto1794 andcontaining Rama Kala the A shortwalkuphilleastof theRamkund, TEMPLES by thecolourful in Maharashtra. Thesc oneofpromises experiences themostintense ation of todie. thesoul),even Foratourist itall waters provide of moksha theRamkund (liber- the arriving dailytobathe,prayand,because hundredsworld andsees of colourfulpilgrims This RAMKUND Sights BankofIndia State office tourist MTDC 802 cheques andhasanATM. from theOldCentralbusstand.Changescashandtravellers h map (Rs5). south oftheOldCentralbusstand.Hasapretty uselesscity Old Agra Rd; 1 3 2 NASIK

(31km) To Trimbak Gungapur Rd Gungapur 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-1.30pmSat)Across 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri,

OTENMHRSTA • ai MAHARASHTRA ••Nasik NORTHERN College bathing tank 18 To TajResidency(7km); Sula Vineyards (8km); Ὀ Ὀ

Pandav Leni(8km); Goda (Black Rama), isthecity’sholiest (BlackRama), h Igatpuri (43km)

AC

Rd vari 10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)About700m Club Golf

River 16 14 market 12 ( isthecentre of theNasik ( 3 17 % % Old Agra Rd 2570059; Paryatan Bhavan, 2502436; OldAgra Rd; 4 ene isfurtherenhanced

justdownriver. Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd (MG) Gandhi Mahatma Nasik-Mum 15 13

bai Rd 11 2 Shalimar

Circle Nasardi 1 Victoria NH3 9 Bridge Ravivar Karanja B

River Panchavati Karanja 10 8 To MuktidhamTemple(7km); 7 Train Station(8km); showers andTV. (and nosiest).Roomsare goodvaluewithhot overwhelmedtotally bysacred Indiaatitsbest fromwhichthis isthebestbudget tobe base minutes’ walkuphillfromtheGodavari River, s/dfrom Rs215/290) .in; Panchavati Karanja; Abhishek Hotel Sleeping &Eating (Rs94)andreturnsbus stand at5.30pm. departs dailyat7.30amfromtheOldCentral athi andincludingTrimbakPandav Leni, An all-daytourof Nasik,conducted inMar- Tours 6am to9pm. of theBhagavad liningitsinterior Gita walls. hasthe18chaptersand nearthetrainstation, ham Temple black Vishnu deities,andthemodern western endof VictoriaBridge, three contains Ravana. hidfromtheevil Sita Nearbyisthe nose. sisters Ravana’s slicedoff where Lakshmana Dwarka Shirdi (87km) Circle All of thetemples listed here are openfrom The ramshackle 6 5 0 0 NH50 , about7kmsoutheastof thecity Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Approximate

Scale ( % TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION udrNrynTml...... B1 Sundur NarayanTemple...... Railway ReservationOffice...... Old CentralBusStand...... New CentralBusStand...... Mahamarg BusStand...... Talk oftheTown...... Annapoorna LunchHome...... Hotel Samrat...... Hotel Panchavati...... Hotel Abhishek...... Ramkund...... Market...... Kala Rama...... Gumpha Panchivati...... State BankofIndia...... MTDC TouristOffice...... HDFC Bank...... Cyber Café...... 2514201; hotabhi_nsk@sancharnet Sundar NarayanTemple Gumpha Panchivati NH3 D Acoupleof 800 m 0.5 miles , where Muktid- 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 , atthe A2 A2 A2 B3 A2 B2 A2 B1 B1 B1 B2 C2 C2 A2 A3 B2 B1 MAHARASHTRA , is is New Set Set 803 is the 2309309) 2309310)

% ( % railway reservation has services to is the fastest train is the fastest (CBS;

Tapovan Express Tapovan 2309308) % (Old Agra Rd; dishes Rs 60-150) (Old Agra (

8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) Mahamarg bus stand h 134; Panchavati Express Panchavati Old Central bus stand % (

Many private bus agents are based near the are bus agents private Many Talk of the Town Talk The office the Commissioner’s Of-on the 1st floor of the CBS. fice, Canada Corner, 500m west of The 7am Rs 56/211, four to Mumbai (2nd class/chair and the 9.50am hours) train to Aurangabad direct only convenient 4½ hours). The 4½ hours). has services hourly to Mumbai (semideluxe and twice-hourly to Shirdi Rs 140, 4½ hours) (Rs 60, 2½ hours). CBS and most buses depart from Old Agra Rd. Destinations include Pune (with/without Mumbai (with/ Rs 220/150, 4½ hours), AC Auranga- Rs 320/150, 4½ hours), without AC Rs 130, 11.30pm only) and bad (without AC Rs 500/280, 12 Ahmedabad (with/without AC the Mumbai-bound that most of Note hours). at Dadar. buses terminate TRAIN The Nasik Rd train station is 8km southeast of but a useful the town centre, inside a glass-plated building next to the Newinside a glass-plated the Town has a long of Central bus stand, Talk smartly and Chinese Indian favourites, menu of and a tranquil atmosphere. waiters suited Getting There & Around BUS player on the road-transport Nasik is a major buses state operating at scene, with frequent stands. different from three nearly all hours useful mainly for those going to Trimbak A block south the (Rs 17, 45 minutes). Central bus station hours) Rs 153, five (semideluxe Aurangabad Rs 110/170, and Pune (ordinary/semideluxe

) Its a 2578771; You can You can % ) Nasik’s most (Dec/Jan; Aurangabad, p805 ) Classical music and dance festival held at the festival ) Classical music and dance p805 (Dec/Jan; Aurangabad, The Hotel Pan- The Hotel

Panchavati Yatri Panchavati

2312318; singles/ (Aug; Pune, p825 & Kolhapur, p835 ) A slithery snake-worshipping) A slithery festival. p835 & Kolhapur, p825 (Aug; Pune, (MG Rd; snacks & meals

% ais (Aug & Sep; Pune, p825 ) Ganesh Chaturthi is celebrated with fervour Maharashtra, across but p825 (Aug & Sep; Pune, 2577211; fax 2306100; Old Agra 2577211; fax 2306100; Old Agra (Sep/Oct; Nagpur, p816 ) Thousands of Buddhists celebrate the anniversary of Dr Ambedkar’s Buddhists celebrate the anniversary ) Thousands of p816 (Sep/Oct; Nagpur, 2536604499; www.tajhotels.com; 2536604499; www.tajhotels.com; (430 Chandak Wadi) (Feb; Pune, p825 ) Classical Indian music and dance performances) Classical that last all night. p825 Pune, (Feb; (Nov; Nagpur, p816 ) A music and dance festival dedicated to the Sanskrit dedicated and dance festival ) A music poet Mahakavi Kalidas. p816 (Nov; Nagpur, % % ( NORTHERN •• Nasik MAHARASHTRA (

2575771; singles/doubles from Rs % There mightsurprises not be any There on 2578782; singles/doubles from Rs 710/ Soneri Mahal. one of the best places to be is Pune, 163km southeast of Mumbai, special arts where places to be is Pune, one of the best and cultural events accompany deity. for the elephant-headed the general mayhem Dussehra Festival Kalidas Festival Festival Ellora Dance & Music Matharaj Naag Panchami Matharaj Chaturthi Ganesh conversion to Buddhism. FESTIVALS FESTIVALS IN MAHARASHTRA Sarai Gandarvar Annapoorna Lunch Home Taj Residency Taj Hotel Panchavati Hotel Samrat % with the cheap eats dished out by the friendly eats dished with the cheap is al- dosas on offer The list of here. waiters most as long as the dosa itself! Rs 10-80) MIDC, Ambad; d from US$95; rooms are classier. Last the sumptuous all is of classier. rooms are ( Millionaire Panchavati 950/1190, with AC from Rs 1140/1340) is a 950/1190, with AC but the travellers pricier option for midrange ( Rs 920/1040). 910, with AC ( chavati service at the on offer are which has clean, cramped rooms and very has clean, cramped rooms and very which midrange guests. Brilliant-value foreign few and spot-on rooms with piping-hot showers ket is the Panchavati Guesthouse ( is the Panchavati ket dorms/singles/doubles Rs 250/400/500), hotels cover every pocket from budget to top- from budget every pocket cover hotels the mar- end of at the cheaper end. Kicking off save yourselftime and effort some save by heading straight for this excellent complex – the four span restaurant is open 24 hours and makes and makes open 24 hours is span restaurant delectable Gujarati thalis (Rs 70). cable TV, clean and comfortable enough are for a pleasant stay.to make Its spick-and- don’t have far to stumble with your bags, and far to stumble don’t have balconies and come with the rooms, which Rd; s/d from Rs 450/625, with AC from Rs 775/925; Rd; s/d from Rs 450/625, with AC lonelyplanet.com the menu but it would be hard to find fault doubles from Rs 1350/1650). luxurious hotel is on the Nasik–Mumbai Rd, is on the Nasik–Mumbai luxurious hotel Leni and well away from all close to Pandav the town centre. the noise of and excitement and calm modern business-class It’s a lovely restaurant. also has a regarded which hotel, position close to the bus stands means you MAHARASHTRA limited interest tothelay-person. therest are virtuallyemptyandofcarvings; AD. Caves 19and23have someinteresting tothe2ndcentury from the1stcenturyBC south of NasikalongtheMumbairoad,date morial Shalimar Circle,neartheCBS,inNasik, but name.same Indianmoviethe pioneering producerof the sheer sheer is tomake thefour-hour-return hike upthe come. of Thereal avisittoTrimbak highlight to washawaytheirsins.Non-Hindusare wel- bathingtank Gangadwar ters of theGodavari River tumbleintothe ideaoffit every exoticIndia. Nearby, thewa- narrowstreets andexplosivewhose markets this restriction Trimbakisafascinatingtown, intothecourtyard.Evenpossible tosee with of Shiva. It’sopentoHindusonly,butit’s linga, India’s mostsacred a temples, containing Trimbak, 33kmwestof Nasik,andisoneof Temple Trimbakeshwar Trimbak around Rs200. return journey includingwaitingtimecosts the easiestwaythere isbyautorickshaw; a (Indian/foreigner Rs5/US$2; BuddhistcavesThe 24Early of Pandav Leni AROUND NASIK about Rs70. (Rs6).Anautorickshaw costs the trainstation a few minutes’ walknortheastof theCBS,to leavebuses frequently fromShalimar Circle, (2nd class/chair Rs56/211,3½hours). Local 804 Below thecaves isthe Below Local buses (Rs7)runpastthecavesLocal buses from original SaiBaba(see p959 ). man whoalsocommands hugerespect, SathyaSaiBaba,claimstobe thereincarnation of the day. However, Elvis,he is possiblynoteven like dead–inAndhraPradeshanother famousholy a large following. Today,his temple complexinShirdidrawsan average of40,000pilgrimsa many miraclesattributed tohimmeantthatbythetime hediedin1918,hadestablished temple messageof tolerance betweenthefaithsand andprayinginthembothequally.His from Nasik,where hespenttherest ofhislife sleepingalternately inanoldMosqueoraHindu are unknown, butataroundtheageof16heappeared inthesmalltownofShirdi,notfar was but whoexactly Sai Baba?Well hisreal and knowledgeofhischildhood name,date ofbirth calm,smilingfaceisseenonpostersHis throughoutIndiaandmanyregard himasalivinggod, THE GODWHOCAME TOSTAY OTENMHRSTA • rudNsk MAHARASHTRA ••AroundNasik NORTHERN

oneof shrines the12mostimportant Brahmagiri Hill Brahmagiri (admission Rs10; h behindthetownto , stands inthecentre, stands of h , where pilgrimsgather 10am-9pm) Dadasaheb Phalke Me- Phalke Dadasaheb 8am-6pm) ,

dedicated to ,

about 8km Pandav Leni jyoti

become adangerous ragingtorrent. if rainlooksimminent,asthetrailcanquickly have madeahome. Don’tattempt theascent somecavesshrines andeven inwhich sadhus top youwillpassanumberof othertemples, soaked Ontheroute inincense. uptothe from aspringandintocoupleof temples summit where theGodavari dribblesforth the nationclamberuptoflowerencrusted to Mumbai,thevillage of Igatpuri ishometo About 44kmsouthof Nasikontherailline Igatpuri minutes). inNasiktoTrimbak(Rs17,45 bus station comforts such ascableTV. building housingspacioussuites withcreature ( % source of theGodavari. Pilgrimsfromacross If you want to stay the night, the thenight, If youwanttostay Regular buses run from the New Central runfromtheNewCentral Regular buses itors is growing industry.Onewinerywelcomingvis- the GrandCruxofIndia’sfledglingwine- ferent thistown fromBordeauxatall,making around 600mabove sealevel) aren’t thatdif- soilsandcoolerclimatethe fertile ofNasik(at this? AvineyardnearNasik?As itturnsout, chai,notwine–butwait,what’s India makes COUNTRY WINE out adroportwo. advance ifyou’re planningonvisitingtotry ing roomhasrecently beenadded;callin dropssince1998.Atast- decently drinkable of theIndianwineindustryhasproduced Rd; .sulawines.com; Govardhan,Gangapur-Savargaon 5.30pm) 02594-233143; dRs300,trste800) h Sula Vineyards , 8km southwest of Nasik. This pioneer , 8kmsouthwestofNasik. 11.00am-10.00pm, tastings11.30am- ( % 9970-090010; lonelyplanet.com isamodern MTDC Resort MTDC

www

MAHARASHTRA

805 9am- 10am- dawn-10pm) h 2331217; h 10am-6pm h % h ( Bibi-qa-Maqbara 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 2400620; Indian/foreigner 2400620; Indian/foreigner 2390618; Hotel Pancha- h % % ( (

might on not be a patch 2337129; Pattan Darwaza Rd; Darwaza Pattan 2337129; 2335598; aurangabad@classicservices 2322677; Station Rd West; 2322677; Station % 2331513; Station Rd East; ( 2331121; Juna Bazaar; 2331121; Juna Bazaar; % % dawn-dusk) % ( ( % ( ( h Aurangabad caves 2400620; Indian/foreigner Rs 5/US$2; 2400620; Indian/foreigner 10.30am-3pm Mon-Fri,10.30am-3pm Sat) Near the to 12.45pm % .in; MTDC Holiday Resort, Station Rd East) Trusty place to book transport, tours and even accommodation. 6pm Mon-Sat) Krishna Vilas, Station Rd West; Paithan Gate, advances on Visa and MasterCard. gives cash Paithan h vati, Station Rd West) City and regional tours, car hire and tours, car hire regional vati, Station Rd West) City and hotel pick-ups. for ticket your two groups 1km apart (retain of all Buddhist. Cave entry into both sets) – are scantily clad lovers of 7 with its sculptures positions is everyone’s favour- in suggestive from the Bibi-qa-Maqbara A rickshaw ite. than Rs 100 including shouldn’t cost more waiting time. is known as the ‘Poor mans Taj’. This is a This is a is known as the ‘Poor mans Taj’. slightly ironic comparison considering it was Aurangzeb’s father who built the original and impris- being overthrown shortly before his extrava- oned by his son on account of gance! The comparison is also a little unfair because, weathering, it’s the obvious despite than the impressive still a damn sight more gravestone. average CAVES AURANGABAD numerous than tourists, With goats more the Rs 5/US$2; MTDC office AGENCIES TRAVEL Ashoka Tours & Travels Classic Tours Sights BIBI-QA-MAQBARA Built in 1679 as a mausoleum for Aurangzeb’s Rabia-ud-Daurani,wife, the ( Bank of Baroda Bank of Trade Wings POST Post office Mon-Sat) TOURIST INFORMATION Government of India tourist office 7pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) Charges a Rs 50 fee. 7pm Mon-Sat, to to 1.30pm Sat) A friendly and helpful tourist office with a decent range of brochures. Ellora or Ajanta, but they are very quiet and very but they are Ellora or Ajanta, peaceful. Carved the hillside in the 6th out of – consisting or 7th century AD, the 10 caves

8am- was first was first h is 1.5km to . (a type of medi- of (a type Vipassana vipassana NORTHERN •• Aurangabad MAHARASHTRA Vipassana International Academy (MSRTC; Station Rd West) (MSRTC;

(Shop 12, Station Rd East; per hr Rs 30; (Konark Estate, Osmanpura; per hr Rs 20; 2335220; 119-A Kailash Market, Station Rd (Station Rd West; per hr Rs 20; % ( 10.30am-9.30pm) Aurangabad’s best selection of

Maharashtra State Road Transport Corpora- h 02553-244076; www.vri.dhamma.org) 9.30am-11pm) Doubles as a travel agent and money 0240 / pop 872,667 / elev 513m 0240 / pop 872,667 / elev 9.30am-11pm)

Silk fabrics are Aurangabad’s traditional Aurangabad’s Silk fabrics are Ten-day residential courses in this strict in this strict courses residential Ten-day % East; English-language books. MONEY MONEY on Nirala Bazaar and Sta- ICICI has ATMs tion Rd East. Global Access h exchange centre. Cyber-dhaba INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS Café Internet Sharayu BOOKSHOPS BOOKSHOPS buzzing Old Town with its narrow streets and buzzing Old Town with its narrow streets distinct Muslim quarter. Information tion bus stand are clumped together in the south of the town. in the south of clumped together are The The train station, cheap hotels and restaurants and restaurants hotels The train station, cheap tre with beer and bikes being the big earners. with beer and bikes tre Orientation trade but the city is now a major industrial cen- trade but the city is now a major because the city makes an excellent base from an excellent basebecause from the city makes site the World Heritage to explore which Ellora. of for dog-eared Aurangabad that day came Aurangabad that day came for dog-eared when the last Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb, made the city his capital from 1653 to 1707. Thoughfame was only brief, the its claim to histori- worthwhile a number of city retains wannabe Taj including a tempting cal relics, and some grandly carved the real but caves, is for traipsing all the way out here reason % They say that every has its day and dog AURANGABAD AURANGABAD taught by Gautama in the 6th century Buddha BC, to India by teacher but was reintroduced SN Goenka in the 1960s. form of Theravada Buddhist meditation are meditation Buddhist are Theravada form of held throughout the year. ( the world’s largest largest the world’s tation) centre, lonelyplanet.com h 11pm) Also changes money. the north. Northeast of the bus stand is the the north. Northeast of MAHARASHTRA giving banyantree. ofseries fish-filled nearalarge tanks, shade- which includeaguidebutnoadmission fees. charnet.in; Bharuka Complex;dwith/without ACRs495/345; charnet.in; Bharuka a top of thevalue-for-money class. andfriendly itsitseasilyatthe efficient bit of love showntothem.Themanagers are immaculate roomsthathave actuallyhada anditnowoffersits badpatch haspassed overestablishment that theyears butitseems a .com; StationRdWest;s/dRs300/400,withAC Rs550/650; arebut atleastit’scheap cool. andthestaff memorable aroma(thinklong-deadroadkill), Rs 150/200) costs Rs25. fast isavailable forRs17andathalidinner here.counting yourpenniestostay Break- is areal gem, butyoureally dohave tobe The womanwhorunsthisdecrepit oldhostel YHA Hostel BUDGET Sleeping Holiday Resort. low inaday.Tours andendattheMTDC start major Aurangabad sites, which isalottoswal- The Elloratouralsoincludesalltheother 5.30pm) run dailytours tothe Classic Tours Tours Aurangzeb. suit andacopyof theQuranhandwritten by Shivaji, includesa500-year-old chain-mail dedicated tothelife of theMaratha hero admission Rs5; This dull MUSEUM SHIVAJI garden memorial itual guidetoAurangzeb,isburiedhere. His thehumblemachine atwork. can stillsee away, itoncegroundgrainforpilgrims.You earthenpipesfromtheriverried through 6km of Driven engineering. bywater car-marvel the millwhich initsdaywasconsidered a Panchakki takes (Water itsnamefrom Wheel) PANCHAKKI 806 Hotel Panchavati Hotel Home Tourist’s Hotel Shree Maya Shree Hotel andspir- aSufisaint ShahBaba Muzaffar, ) ) We’ve received mixed reports about this Presentable and welcomingbudget ac- OTENMHRSTA • uagbd MAHARASHTRA ••AurangabadNORTHERN and As basicasgets andwithatruly ( % museum Ellora

( h % 2334892; StationRdWest;dm/dRs60/160)

10.30am-1.30pm &3-6pmWed-Mon) (admission Rs5; 2335598; www.aurangabadtours.com)

(Rs 170; ( ( % %

( % ( % 2337212; StationRdWest;s/d 2328755; www.hotelpanchavati h 2333093; shrimaya_agd@san 2334087; Dr Ambedkar Rd; 2334087; DrAmbedkar Ajanta 9.30am-5.30pm) h

(Rs 270; 6am-8pm) h caves, hasa 8am- ,

travel agency are onsite. Arestaurant,a bitfromroadnoise. barand spruce, spaciousrooms.Someroomssuffer one of thebetter MTDC operations,offering (inthenicestpossibleway)hotel is ganised in itsownshady disor- grounds,thisslightly glitzy lobby leads to slightly lessimpressiveglitzy lobbyleadstoslightly .com; JalnaRd;s/dfromRs1410/2100; ais Rd;s/dfromRs2300/2800; Airport .com; R-7/2,Chikalthana, ParkPresident TOP END sional thananyotherhotel initsclass. rooms, butit’smuch cleanerandmore profes- by pushystaff. Cinema hasvery cleanrooms,butisletdown This sparklingnewhotel nexttotheGoldie StationRd;s/dfromRs1000/1200; .com; Railway low/high seasonRs650/750,withAC800/900; HolidayResort MTDC MIDRANGE lers’ grapevine. intothetravel- It’sagoodspottotap served. terrace where breakfast andothermealsare the morning,butreal plusistheoutdoor andhotshowers in plain roomshave TVs The tothetrainstation. commodation close Offering both indoor seating andanoutdoor bothindoor seating Offering trance justbelow the SaraswatBank. Marathi) pointingthewaydown totheen- find –lookforan orange circularsign(in swami Yogiraj Hansthirth. It’squite hardto gazeofis gobbled upunderthebenevolent lots of icecreams andshakes –allof which theredian staples are pizzas(Rs30to40)and mains Rs20-55) Swad Veg Restaurant Eating balconies. have swingsonthe romanticMughal-style northern fringes of Aurangabad.Most rooms is anoasisof well-appointed roomsonthe of landscaped gardens,theTaj pleasantly Rd; s/dfromUS$75/85; pool forRs175perhour. the good top-endoption.Nonguestscanuse poolmakes thisa ting aroundthehalf-moon abitofclassy hotel needs apolishbutthe set- Classic Ashoka’s Fast Food Ashoka’s Taj Residency Hotel Amarpreet Hotel

Hotel Hotel ) Ontheroadtoairport,this Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com As well asapileof cheap-eat In-

( % ( ( % %

ais ( 2381106; www.tajhotels.com; Ajanta %

(Kanchan Chamber,StationRdEast; (Kanchan

5624314; www.aurangabadhotel

( 2486201; www.presidenthotels % (Nirala Bazaar; mainsRs20-60) 6621133; www.amarpreethotel 2331513; StationRdEast;d ) Set in2hectares Set a ) Achintzy, a ai Set )

) MAHARASHTRA 807 This A5 C4 A5 A5 A3 B4 B3 A5 A3 0.5 miles 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 800 m Airport (8km) D Jet Airways (3km); President Park (5km); To Indian Airlines (3km); Jalgaon (160km) Paithani Weaving Centre (3km); Delhi Gate Fardapur (103km); Ajanta Caves (103km); To Taj Residency (1.5km);

Sarafa Rd (Station Rd West; mains Rs 40-60;

0 0 11 Food Lovers...... Paradise Hotel...... Prashanth...... Swad Veg Restaurant...... & Bar...... Tandoor Restaurant Bicycle Hire...... MSRTC Bus Stand...... Private Bus Agents...... Taxi Stand...... Ashoka’s Fast Food...... B3 EATING TRANSPORT Jafar Gate (Station Rd East; mains Rs 50-200) 13

Directly opposite the MSRTC bus the MSRTC opposite Directly B4 C2 A5 C4 A4 A5 A5 A5 A4 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Gulmandi Rd Kala City

Darwaza Chowk Rd Jalna Rangeen Darwaza 11am-3pm)

Gate Food Lovers Paradise HotelParadise

1 Paithan Pattan Darwaza Rd Darwaza Pattan Kranti h lunchtime is a reliable Hotel stand the Paradise thalis. bet with quick curries and endless aquariums stuffed with is full of restaurant catfish. Oh and the Punjabi and Chinese food isn’t bad either. 23 Chowk 4 9

Juna Bazaar Jama Masjid 7 19 Circle 6

Osmanpura

Court Rd Court

Old Town Nirala Bazaar Nirala 27 Panchakki...... A2 State Bank of India...... 2) Trade Wings...... (see Shivaji Museum...... Classic Hotel...... Hotel Amarpreet...... Hotel Panchavati...... Hotel Shree Maya...... MTDC Holiday Resort...... Tourist’s Home...... YHA Hostel...... SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING B B3 B2 B5 C3 A4 A3 B5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Bhadkal Ghati Rd Darwaza 8

28 Hospital Aurangpura Rd Aurangpura Gate

Rd Makai

Government

Dr Ambedkar Rd Ambedkar Dr 21 West

Rd 12

3 Station Rd Station Dr Rajendra Prasad Marg Darwaza Goldie 14 Mehmood Panchakki Cinema 18 26 Garden 2 Siddarth Padampura 22 24 NORTHERN •• Aurangabad MAHARASHTRA 20 16 10 (Siddharth Rd East; mains Arcade, Station

Station Rd East Rd Station

15 AC West

5

Kham River Kham Ὀ 25 Station Rd Station 17 Prashanth wins trophies from travel- Train Station INFORMATION Sharayu...... Global Access...... Tourist Office..Government of India A5 22) HDFC Bank ATM...... (see ICICI ATM...... 22) ICICI ATM...... (see 16) MTDC Office...... (see Post Office...... Ashoka Tours and Travels...... (see 14) Ashoka Tours and Bank of Baroda...... 22) Café Internet...... (see 16) Classic Tours...... (see Cyber-dhaba...... District Police Office...... Aurangabad Caves (2km)

To Bibi-qa-Maqbara (500m); Begumpura Rd Begumpura Prashanth Khuldabad (26km); Ellora Caves (29km); Pune (230km) To Daulatabad (13km); AURANGABAD 5 2 3 1 4 To Paithan (56km) Rs 25-90) and Western-style burgers make the trek out the trek make burgers and Western-style well worthwhile. here terrace that is all the rage at night, Ashoka’s at night, Ashoka’s that is all the rage terrace sweet staples, Indian cakes Punjabi piles of lonelyplanet.com lers for its delightful vegetarian-only dishes, dishes, for its delightful vegetarian-only lers patio setting.epic fruit juices and enjoyable MAHARASHTRA if you’re notbuying. Indian Airlinesoffice. It’sworthavisiteven Chambers, StationRdEast;mainsRs60-200) becomes CourtRd,anda few to sit closer the corner where Marg Prasad Dr Rajendra The private busagents congregate around arebuses more andbetter value. comfortable For longer-distance journeys, private luxury five hours) andNasik(Rs110, five hours). stand for Ajanta (see p814 formore details). T-junction nearFardapur isthedrop-off point hours) viaFardapur (Rs74,twohours). The 45 minutes) andhourlytoJalgaon (Rs90,four toEllora(Rs17, headhalf-hourly Local buses BUS offers dirt-cheaptoMumbai. dailyflights to Mumbai(US$116,45minutes). AirDeccan (US$129, 3½hours). Jet Airwaysfliesdaily Mumbai (US$54,45minutes) andDelhi Jalna Rd) ( En route you’llfindtheofficesof The AIR Getting There&Away a yeartomake! price bearinmindthattheytake more than to Rs300,000,butbefore youbaulkatthe silk blend).Paithani range saris fromRs5000 ( masters atworkisthe One of thebestplacestocomeandwatch the from fathertosonbuttodaythisisadyingart. workshops. Traditionallythecraftwaspassed rooms inthecitywhich stillruntraditional power looms,butthere are acoupleof show- areshawls andsaris mass-producedusing in the14thcentury.Mostof today’sHimroo cades of silkandgoldthread woven forroyalty alternative toKam themore Khab, lavish bro- silver threads, asacheaper itwasdeveloped bad speciality.Made fromcotton,silkand Hand-woven Himroomaterial isanAuranga- Shopping Aurangabad’s toprestaurants. weirdly Pharaonic atmosphere, thisisoneof vegetarianIndian andChinese optionsina dishes andflavoursomefine tandoori North 808 % % Himroo saris start atRs1000(cottonand start Himroo saris Buses leaveBuses regularly fromthe Tandoor &Bar Restaurant 2485241; JalnaRd) 2482811, JalnaRd; airport

OTENMHRSTA • rudArnaa MAHARASHTRA ••AroundAurangabadNORTHERN ( % . Indian Airlines has daily flights to . IndianAirlineshasdailyflights 2242165; StationRdWest)

( % 2483392) and h 11am-8.30pm) is10kmeastof town. Paithani WeavingCentre Jet Airways Jet

( toPune(Rs140, % 2328481; Shyam , behind the Indian Airlines

( % Offering MSRTC bus MSRTC 2441392;

pollution-filled day’s sightseeing aroundpollution-filled day’ssightseeing (Rs4perhour)isanoptionforastation including ElloraandDaulatabad. here fordestinationsaroundAurangabad, shareto thebusstand; alsodepartfrom jeeps isnext stand in asummerswamp.Thetaxi Autorickshaws are ascommonmosquitoes Getting Around from there. Jalgaon andboardoneof themajor trains or eastern Indiabytrain,take abusupto 2AC Rs236/954,10hours). Toreach northern mad Express (sleeper/2AC Rs158/641,ninehours). and there’s alsothe11.25pm hours),eight fromMumbai,leaves at6.10am, Tapovan Express booked) runto/fromMumbai.The2.30pm line, buttwodirect trainsdaily(often heavily bad On thesouthernedge of townisAuranga- TRAIN Nagpur (Rs320,12hours). hours), Ahmedabad(Rs350,15hours) and (Rs 180,withAC Rs550,eight Rs250,sleeper overnight busdestinationsincludeMumbai RdWest.Deluxe onStation the busstand bad, the City of Moham- Fortune, bysultan the lawns. on pompous peacocks struttingtheirstuff and squirrels playingonthe battlementsand It’s apeacefulspot,withnumerous monkeys theHillofnally knownasDevagiri, theGods. hill–origi- central bastiontopsa200m-high surrounded by5kmof sturdywalls,whilethe ( cent hilltopfortress of The Daulatabad. Ellora caves istheruinedbuttrulymagnifi- Halfway Aurangabad andthe (13km)between Daulatabad AROUND AURANGABAD Lonely Planetreader! the factthatheownshisownrickshaw toa Hefound aroundthetrain/busstand. owes hecanfromyou.Herupee cannormallybe shaw driver whowon’ttryandwrangleevery .co.in) the city. % Hiring a bicycle from a stall nearthetrainHiring abicyclefromstall In the14th centuryitwasrenamed Daulata- To Hyderabad (Secunderabad), the To Hyderabad (Secunderabad), Ashok TKadam Ashok 2615777; Indian/foreigner Rs5/US$2; isarecommended andtrustworthyrick- train station departsdailyat7.20pm(sleeper/

( ( % (2ndclass/chair Rs94/344, % 9890340816; a_t_kadam@yahoo 131) . It’snotonamain lonelyplanet.com Devagiri Express Devagiri h 6am-6pm) Man- fort is

MAHARASHTRA 809 cave temples

Ellora , about 30km from Au- , about 244440; Kailasa Temple; Indian/foreigner Rs 10/US$5; Indian/foreigner 244440; Kailasa Temple; 02437 dawn-dusk Wed-Mon) Over five centuries, generations of monks of Over centuries, generations five Official guides can be hired at the ticket at the ticket Official can be hired guides Altogether Ellora has 34 caves: 12 Bud- Ellora has 34 caves: Altogether Generally calm place, Khuldabad a is % got. The contrast with that of his wife’s fan- his wife’s with that of contrast got. The in tastical Bibi-qa-Maqbara, mausoleum, the must Heads be greater. couldn’t Aurangabad office in front of the Kailasa Temple for Rs 280 Temple the Kailasa office in front of an extensive Most relay for up to four hours. Touts architecture. the cave of knowledge pictorial guidebooks. If a selection of offer time to visit either Ellora or you only have it Ellora. then make Ajanta in front of the main shrines. The masterpiece the main shrines. The masterpiece in front of 16). (Cave Temple Kailasa is the breathtaking it is the world’s largest to Shiva, Dedicated from the rock by hewn monolithic sculpture, a 150-year period. over 7000 labourers dhist (AD 600–800), 17 Hindu (AD 600–900) rep- 800–1000). The site (AD Jain and five Hinduism under of the renaissance resents the Chalukya and Rashtrakuta dynasties, the Indian Buddhism and subsequent decline of under official Jainism of a brief resurgence show the increas- The sculptures patronage. elements in India’s Tantric ing influence of and their coexistence at religions great three religious a lengthy period of indicates one site tolerance. ELLORA ELLORA % The World Heritage–listed ( h Deccan rock-cut the pinnacle of are rangabad, architecture. carved mon- (Buddhist, Hindu and Jain) from a 2km- temples and chapels asteries, them with a long escarpment and decorated detailed sculptures. remarkably of profusion Because slope, in the escarpment’s gentle of ), p812 ( contrast with the sheer drop at Ajanta courtyards elaborate have caves the many of be covered when visiting the tomb and women when visiting the tomb be covered into the inner sanctum. not allowed are beenworn said a robe April when to have within and kept Mohammed, by the Prophet to the public. is shown (shrine), the dargah from the Alamgir The shrine across the road the Prophet’s beard of contains hairs Dargah solid silver, of from a tree silver and lumps of a after at this site miraculously grew which saint’s death. swamped with millions of pilgrims every pilgrims every millions of swamped with , cast cannon , where Abul Abul , where is exactly what he Chini Mahal 7am-8pm) NORTHERN •• Ellora MAHARASHTRA h (

(Tower of the Moon), built in the Moon), built in (Tower of The climb to the summit takes at least 45 at least 45 the summit takes The climb to Part of the ascent to the top goes through of Part If you take an organised tour from Au- an organised If you take Higher up is the of his era, Aurangzeb left instructions that he of should be buried in a simple tomb constructed only with the money he had made from sew- – and an un- Muslim skullcaps ing together the earth in a courtyard of bare fussy affair of Alamgir Dargah pilgrimage town just 3km from Ellora. A A town just 3km from Ellora. pilgrimage buried here, are historical figures number of Mughal including Aurangzeb, the last great Brunei being the Sultan Despite of emperor. The scruffy Khuldabad, the walled town of little Muslim is a cheerful Abode, Heavenly rangabad to Daulatabad and Ellora, you won’t time to climb to the summit. have Khuldabad on the way down you’ll be left to your devices. that the crumbling staircasesNote and sheer difficult life for the elderly, drops can make sufferers. and vertigo children despite all these elaborate precautions, by by precautions, all thesedespite elaborate There’s simply bribing the guard at the gate.) normally a guide waiting near the tunnel to light the way with a flame for a small tip, but rows or even boiling water at invaders. (Alleg- at invaders. rows or even boiling water edly the fort was once successfully conquered, 1687. It was once coated in blue-and-white in blue-and-white 1687. It was once coated fragments fractured tiles but now only a few a 6m You will also find remain. Hasan Tana Shah, king of Golconda, died died Golconda, king of Shah, Tana Hasan from 12 years being imprisoned for after 1435, soars 60m above the ground, but unfor- 60m above 1435, soars climb it. it’s not possible to tunately charges. A tower of victory, known as the the victory, known as A tower of charges. Chand Minar ries of defences, including multiple doorways including multiple defences, ries of elephant to prevent doors with spike-studded over the surrounding countryside. On the On the the surrounding countryside. over se-way up you’ll pass through an ingenious bad proved untenable as a capital. untenable bad proved the superb views are rewards and the minutes Those back die on the way sloped who didn’t when Daulata- later years of to Delhi a couple capital here, but marching the entire popula- the entire but marching capital here, it. south to populate Delhi 1100km tion of med Tughlaq, crazy up with the who came building himself not only a new of scheme lonelyplanet.com from five different metals and engraved with metals and engraved different from five Aurangzeb’s name. tunnel – down which spiralling a pitch-black hurled burning coals, ar- the fort’s defenders MAHARASHTRA 810 To Daulatabad (15km); Milan Hotel Aurangabad (30km) CAVES ELLORA Kailas Hotel OTENMHRSTA • loa MAHARASHTRA ••Ellora NORTHERN Jain Group 30 –34 MTDC Ellora Restaurant & Bar 34 Parasnath 33 Hindu Group 13 –29 200m 0.1miles 0 0 32 1 2 Office Ticket 31 3 24 4 11 23 14 5 15 13 30 10 12 8 29 9 7 22 20 19 25 6 21 Buddhist Group 18 Temple Kailasa 26 17 27 1 –12 28 16 Mahabharata andtheadventures of Krishna. the els, depictingscenesfromtheRamayana, pan- Around thetemple are dramaticcarved able foritsprodigioussculpturaldecoration. as high. of theParthenon inAthensandis1½times tonnes of rock!Kailasa covers twicethearea removing thatentailed undertaking 200,000 then theshapewas‘released’ withtools–an huge trenches were faceand cutintothecliff lash), Shiva’s homeintheHimalaya. Three 760, wasbuilttorepresent MtKailasa (Kai- dynastyinAD Krishna Iof theRashtrakuta grand scale. ‘cave’, fromwhere youcanappreciate its aroundthetopperimeterwalk right of the up thepathtosouthof thecomplexand Afterwards take ahikeforgotten carvings. corners of thecomplexwith theirnumerous to prayinthemainshrine. functioning temple andmanypeoplecome Thisisstilla pride bysimplyflexingatoe. Kailasa. Unimpressed, Shiva crushesRavana’s vana flauntinghisstrength byshakingMt The mostsuperbdepictsthedemonkingRa- monument, this Neither asimplecave, noraplainreligious KAILASA TEMPLE Sights can pass through adoorwayto can passthrough Cave 7 similar toSaraswati, herHinduequivalent. of learning, Mahamayuri, lookingremarkably Avalokiteshvara, andof theBuddhist goddess images of Tara, consortof theBodhisattva and notaswellpreserved. sun. the setting Buddhafigureand itsimposingseated facing granary. with themore impressive Hindutemples. ambitious, probably inanattempt tocompete caves are simple,Caves 11and12are more is a haras The southernmost12caves are Buddhist BUDDHIST CAVES assembly hall. assembly benches hintthatitmayhave an oncebeen 18m wideand36mlong;therows of stone Cave 1 Size aside,theKailasa Temple isremark- Don’t forget toexplore thedank,bat-filled Cave 5 Cave 6 chaitya isanunadorned hall,butfrom here you (resting places), exceptCave 10,which , thesimplest isanornate is thelargest Cave 2 (assembly hall).While theearliest (assembly is notable foritsornate isnotable pillars Cave 3 rock-cut temple rock-cut and vihara, vihara vihara Cave 4 inthisgroup,at withwonderful mayhave a been lonelyplanet.com , builtbyKing Cave 8 are unfinished , thefirst vi- MAHARASHTRA 811 tirth- (great (great MTDC El- , across , also has which will which

, Cave 34 Cave tirthankars

(dishes Rs 20-50) , the Indra Sabha (As- A mixed bag of rooms bag of A mixed (dishes Rs 30-150)

244446; www.hotelkailas.com; d from Cave 32 Cave Milan Hotel % (

is really an extension of Cave 32. Cave of an extension is really , the Chota Kailasa (Little Kailasa), is , the Chota (Little Kailasa), Kailasa , the Jagannath Sabha, is similar in plan , the Jagannath and founder of the Jain religion. the Jain and founder of Locals say the best food emerges from the Locals say the best food emerges Cave 31 Cave In contrast, Cave 30 Cave and Ellora (Rs 17); the last bus returns from and Ellora (Rs 17); the last bus returns when jeeps leave Ellora at around 7pm. Share outside the bus stand full and drop off they’re in Aurangabad (Rs 12). A full-day rickshaw costs around tour to Ellora with stops en route between Rs 350 and a taxi will be somewhere Rs 500 and 600. Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Hotel Kailas Rs 300, cottages from Rs 900) the caves. and inviting views over showers lawn and a lush a good restaurant There’s a drink. you can sit and have where the of kitchens spotless is the the road. Also reliable lora Restaurant & Bar Getting There & Away between Aurangabad regularly Buses travel temples. Its ground-floor plan is similar to that Its ground-floor temples. is as ornate area but the upstairs the Kailasa, of is plain. as the downstairs decorated and richly the Jain of images are There the and Gomateshvara, Parasnath teachers) Inside the shrine surrounded by wildlife. latter the last Mahavira, of is a seated figure ankar 33 Cave to 32 and has some well-preserved sculptures. the small The final temple, the over On the hilltop sculptures. interesting Parasnath of a 5m-high temples, image Jain looks down on Ellora. developed temples exemplified by the Kailasa. the Kailasa. by exemplified developed temples waterfall. the nearby views over It has JAIN CAVES lack the artistic vigour may caves Jain The five best Hindu temples, the size of and ambitious detailed. exceptionally caves The but they are (Cave temple the last Hindu 1km north of are bitumen road. the of 29) at the end Temple Kailasa the great a poor imitation of and stands by itself some distance from the temples. other Jain sembly Hall of Indra), is the finest of the Jain the Jain Indra), is the finest of of sembly Hall that range from cheap budget cells that get that get cells budget from cheap that range with warm hot to clean, stone cottages very also provide lunch boxes for you so you can boxes lunch also provide a picnic beside the caves. have are sim- are 28 NORTHERN •• Ellora MAHARASHTRA to 22 , the Dumar Lena, is , the Dumar Lena, is is notable for its wonder- in the Buddhist group and in the Buddhist and numbers and numbers Cave 29 Cave Cave 9 Cave , the Ravana-ki-Khai, is a Bud- 20 converted to a temple dedicated dedicated to a temple converted chaitya to is a simple cave, most likely a gra- most likely is a simple cave, , the Do Thal (Two Storey) Cave, Cave, , the Do Thal (Two Storey) , the huge Tin Thal (Three Storey) Storey) Thal (Three Tin , the huge , known as the Ramesvara, features , the Das Avatara (Ten Incarnations (Ten , the Das Avatara , the Viswakarma (Carpenter’s) Cave, (Carpenter’s), the Viswakarma Cave, (crocodile), is particularly notable. Cave 14 Cave vihara Cave 21 Cave Cave 13 Cave 15 Cave Cave 12 Cave The large The large Caves 17 All these temples were cut from the top All these were temples Cave 11 Cave Cave 10 Cave thought model between to be a transitional and the fully the simpler hollowed-out caves Shaivite scenes depicted in the earlier temples. in the earlier temples. scenes depicted Shaivite standing Ganga, goddess on her of The figure makara interesting interpretations of the familiar the familiar of interpretations interesting ple monasteries. a lingam (phallic image) while Vishnu and a lingam (phallic image) Brahma pay homage. The two-storey temple contains temple a mesmeris- The two-storey from emerging and Shiva Nataraja, ing Shiva of Vishnu) Cave, is one of the finest at Ellora. the finest at Ellora. of is one Vishnu) Cave, of and moved down to the floor. down to the floor. and moved down so that it was never necessary to use scaffolding began with the roof – the builders nary. the Hindu group (Caves 13 to 29). In terms 13 to the Hindu group (Caves execution, of vision and skill scale, creative of their own. in a league of are these caves Where calm and contemplation infuse calm and contemplation the Bud- Where characterise and excitement drama dhist caves, dhist sometime in the 7th century. to Shiva HINDU CAVES HINDU CAVES large Buddha figure flanked by his seven pre- flanked Buddha figure large carved walls are vious incarnations. The with those in the Hindu caves. like pictures, relief Cave, is entered through a courtyard. The through a courtyard. The is entered Cave, on the top floor contains shrine a (locked) period. probably owes its size to competition with probably the same of Hindu caves impressive the more is entered through basement its third, level, is entered 12 it Cave 1876. Like until not discovered one of the finest in India. It takes its name It takes the finest in India. one of carvedfrom the ribs in imita- into the roof, tion of wooden beams; the balcony and upper the balcony and upper wooden beams; tion of the ceiling and a a closer view of gallery offer couples. A decora- frieze depicting amorous an enormous illuminates window gently tive Buddha. the teaching of figure is the only cave in which the sanctum the from is detached in which cave wall. the rear fully carved façade. Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book MAHARASHTRA bad, andabout 60kmsouthof Jalgaon –are 5.30pm Tue-Sun) is asafe placetoleave gear (Rs4perbagfor cousinturnsup. second andtheir ends orholidayswheneverybody Avoid anydetail. to glimpse visitingonweek- a torch, sobringyourownifyoureally want the caves are much without toodarktosee video-camera permitcostsRs25.Many of Flash photographyisbannedinthecaves; a Information this day. in which someof theirpaintingsremain to contributed of tothefinestate preservation party stumbleduponthem.Theirisolation forgotten until1819,whenaBritish hunting the gloriousAjanta caves were abandonedand andBuddhismgraduallywaned, developed toAD650and,asEllora from around200BC the Louvre of centralIndia. Thecaves date Ajanta A WorldHeritage site, the % AJANTA 812 1 3 2 AJANTA CAVES 23 24 A cloakroomnearthemainticket office 02438 26 21 OTENMHRSTA • jna MAHARASHTRA ••Ajanta NORTHERN

22 29 ( % 27 25 Ὀ Ὀ 244226; Indian/foreigner Rs10/US$5; 28 AC Park –105kmnortheastof Auranga- 20 19 18 17 Buddhist caves of Buddhist caves 16

B Waghore River Waghore 30 h Viewpoint Chair Hire...... laro...... D3 Cloakroom...... INFORMATION 0 0 To Viewpoint 15 9am- (500m) 14 13 25 are 15 minutes withineach cave. each end.Atbusytimesviewers are allotted the middleandneweronesare to close chronological order;theoldestare mainlyin the gorge totheother. Theydonotfollowa are numbered sequentially fromoneendof hore River. ApartfromCaves 29and30,they rockgorgehorseshoe-shaped ontheWag- The 30caves are faceof cutintothesteep a THE CAVES Sights &Activities frescoes tolife withtheirstories. They have extensive knowledge andbringthe for anapproximately two-hourtour(Rs350). can behired atCave 1foruptofourpeople hired atthefootof steps. these a chair carriedbyfourbearers (Rs400)canbe from theentrance;ifyou’re notuptothehike, There’s climbtothefirst ashort,steep cave and continuetoAurangabadintheevening. morning fromJalgaon, check outthecaves four hours), arrive soyoucouldeven inthe 12 Five of thecaves are Government of guides Indiatouristoffice 11 10 9 viharas 8 2 1 D3 . Caves 8,9,10,12,13andpart 7 u tn...... D3 Bus Stand...... TRANSPORT SLEEPING Main TicketOffice...... MTDC Travellers'Lodge...... Toilets &Showers...... (see2) chaityas 5 6 3 lonelyplanet.com 0.1 miles To MTDCHoliday Entrance Main Hotel Padmpani Fardapur (5km); whiletheother D Resort (5km); 2 4 1 Park (5km) Approximate 1 2 Scale 5 4 3 200 m 4 D3 D3 3 5 MAHARASHTRA at at at at 813 vihara chaityas at Ajanta and is at Ajanta vihara contains some of Ajan- contains some of (1994) can be bought from (1994) can be bought from vihara, is thought to be the oldest cave is thought to be the oldest cave , a is the only two-storey is the only two-storey is one of the earliest is one of is the largest is the largest has an atypical design, with porches with porches has an atypical design, . The façade has collapsed and the . The façade has collapsed and the Cave 16 Cave Cave 4 Cave 7 Cave Cave 9 Cave 10 Cave Cave 6 6 Cave paintings inside have been damaged, in some in some been damaged, paintings inside have cases by graffiti the dating from soon after rediscovery. ta’s finest paintings and is thought to have before the veranda, leading directly to the four leading directly the veranda, before shrine. sculptured cells and the elaborately flanking the figures Buddhist period, the two Mahayana later probably entrance door were down both sides of additions. Columns run and around the 3m-high dagoba at the cave has traces of roof the far end. The vaulted wooden ribs. (200 BC) by spotted and was the one first Ajanta. who rediscovered the British soldiers 9, it is the largest Similar in design to Cave chaitya surrounding the Buddha’s birth, including including Buddha’s birth, the surrounding elephant, a six-tusked of dream his mother’s the Buddha’s conception. heralded which Althoughnever com- pillars. by 28 supported sculp- has some impressive the cave pleted, people fleeing from scenes of including tures, of to the protection dangers’ the ‘eight great disciple Avalokiteshvara. the Buddha’s collapsed. Inside is a seated Buddha figure carvedand an intricately door to the shrine. the hall is surrounded by cells with Upstairs fine paintings on the doorways. Ajanta. Although it dates from the early the early from Although it dates Ajanta. Ajanta, but parts of the lower storey have have the lower storey parts of but Ajanta, with Ajanta: A Brief History and Guide vihara was one of the was one of vihara, NORTHERN •• Ajanta MAHARASHTRA is also a late Mahayana Mahayana is also a late , a Mahayana , a Mahayana American professor Dr Walter M Spink (who has studied the caves for more than 40 years) than 40 years) for more has studied the caves M Spink (who Dr Walter American professor around crafted had two periods of patronage: an early group was that the caves Scholars agree to Spink, that the sudden downfall of the eminent lining to the tragedy is, according silver The Spink’s book interested, If you’re WHEN WAS AJANTA’S GOLDEN AGE? GOLDEN AGE? WHEN WAS AJANTA’S no exception and there’s review undergo continuously sites on major archaeological Theories with the Ajanta caves. Mahayana been accomplished in less suggests that the splendour of the later group may have thought. centuries as previously than 20 years – rather than over Spink pinpoints began centuries later. of work the 1st and 2nd centuries BC and a second wave of activity. renaissance sponsor in the incredible the Vakataka emperor Harisena as a reigning forms, until their present began to realise caves his rise to the throne in AD 460 the Soon after deserted was probably in the AD 480s. site death in AD 477. The Harisena’s unexpected for their crafting is solely responsible energetic pinnacle of the caves’ at the Vakataka empire today. state phenomenally preserved touts near the site. touts near the site. Cave 2 Cave Cave 1 Cave Caves 3, 5, 8, 22 and 28 to 30 are closed 3, 5, 8, 22 and 28 to 30 are Caves Of special note are the Ajanta ‘frescoes’, ‘frescoes’, the Ajanta are Of special note decorated with geometric and floral patterns. and floral patterns. with geometric decorated jatakas Mural scenes include a number of deliriously ornamented columns and capi- deliriously ornamented tals, The ceiling is and some fine paintings. from Central lapis lazuli. Look up to the Asian ceiling to see the carving four deer sharing of a common head. life, and many of the facial expressions are are the facial expressions and many of life, in the The colours all wonderfully executed. from local minerals, created paintings were the vibrant blue made with the exception of to a large congregation hall, with elaborate hall, with elaborate congregation to a large murals. Perspective and narrative sculptures and daily dress in the paintings, details of closed. and/or inaccessible; Cave 14 is sometimes 14 is sometimes and/or inaccessible; Cave fresco is a painting done on a wet surface is a painting done on a wet surface fresco paintings the Ajanta that absorbs the colour; artists since the tempera, correctly more are gum mixed used animal glue and vegetable to bind them to the with the paint pigments dry surface. and is the most beauti- to be excavated latest at the front leads A veranda fully decorated. which are technically not frescoes at all. A at all. not frescoes technically are which represented directly – his presence was always – his presence directly represented as the footprint a symbol such alluded to by law. or wheelof 5th century AD). In the simpler, more austere austere AD). In the simpler, more 5th century never the Buddha was school, early Buddhist of 15 are older early Buddhist caves, while the while caves, Buddhist older early are 15 of the from around (dated Mahayana are others lonelyplanet.com MAHARASHTRA 8 and27. Afurther20-minute uphill walk via oneof theconcrete bridges belowCaves first isashort walkbeyondtheriver, crossed of gorge. thewholehorseshoe-shaped The Two lookoutsoffer picture-perfect views VIEWPOINTS Cave 26 tion byMara. a lengthydepictionof theBuddha’stempta- Otherscenesinclude preparation fornirvana. figure of the‘reclining Buddha’,lyingbackin some finesculptures. Ontheleftwallisahuge largest sits athisside. his head.Hiswife, hoodedbyasinglecobra, cobrahoodsaround the Nagakingwithseven the cave tothewestsitsastrikingimage of a figure of theBuddhaonfront.Outside entrance. Insideisathree-tiered dagoba with BuddhafiguresTwo finestanding flankthe is animpressive window. horseshoe-shaped façade;itsdominantfeaturemarkably detailed returns toconquertheisland. and tims. Simhalaescapesonaflyinghorse theirvic- anddevour women, onlytoseize island where ogresses appearasenchanting 500 companionsheisshipwrecked onan Withhis Simhala’s expeditiontoSriLanka. paneltells ofastonished son.Adetailed Prince his enlightenment tobegfromhiswife and wine andtheBuddhareturning homefrom using theoldtrickof plyinghislover with princess applyingmake-up, ahornyprince varied paintings.Famous images includea pillars, hasAjanta’s andmost best-preserved Path.the NobleEightfold onalionthroneteachingthe Buddhaseated architectural andthere’s details, of astatue ofsupport theceilinginimitation wooden figures appearto to becomeamonk.Carved renouncing thematerial life (andher)inorder have fainted atthenewsthatherhusbandwas to Nanda,whoissaid Buddha’s half-brother the ‘dyingprincess’–Sundari,wife of the plex. Thebestknownof paintingsis these theoriginalentrancetoentirebeen com- 814 them wasbroken through. cut intotherockandthenbetween caves were constructed –longgallerieswere Cave 27 Cave 24 Cave 19 Cave 17 Cave 26 OTENMHRSTA • jna MAHARASHTRA ••Ajanta NORTHERN vihara chaitya isvirtuallya , if it had been finished, wouldbethe , ifithadbeen , with carved dwarfssupportingthe , withcarved , alargely ruined , amagnificent atAjanta. howthe Youcansee . vihara chaitya, chaitya, connected tothe hasare- contains contains a hospitable welcome. a hospitable a stringof cheap (butnotvery appetising)res- pected toreopen sometimeduring2007. renovations atthetimeof research. It’sex- the ticket formuch-needed wasclosed office, are abitsleepy. the staff adequate andspaciousroomsagooddeal,but drop tojustRs650/450,which makes these that thepricesof roomshere are goingto 1km fromtheT-junction, there are rumours Rd; dwith/withoutACfromRs700/600; Rs 350/450) Aurangabad-Jalgaonyahoo.co.in; Rd;dwith/withoutAC following. ofdistance thecaves fromoneof choose the withinspitting meantime, ifyouwish tostay the T-junction, isdueforcompletion.Inthe book aluxuryholidaycomplex,justbeside duringthelifetime However, a base. of this limited andyou’re better usingJalgaon off as tothecavesAccommodation optionsclose are Sleeping &Eating you toJalgaon. are available in Fardapur; Rs500should get down themainroad towardsJalgaon. Taxis MTDC HolidayResort inFardapur, 1km to eitherAurangabad orJalgaon outside the After thecaves youcanboardbuses close Fardapurthrough stopatthe T-junction. to theT-junction. lastbusat6.15pm) regular basis(half-hourly, zoom downtothecaves. return Buses ona (Rs6,withACEuro Ibuses Rs 10),which the departure pointforthegreen-coloured the‘shopping plaza’to (Rs 5),racethrough From here, after payingan ‘amenities’fee the roadtocaves), 4km fromthecaves. (where the Aurangabad–Jalgaon Rdmeets ( opposite ) willdropyouoffattheT-junction fromAurangabad( Buses p808 ) orJalgaon Getting There&Away park belowCaves 22to27. is topackapicnicandenjoyitintheshady inthe‘shoppingplaza’–ouradvice taurants Fardapur. upto the lattertake ataxi viewpointfrom party first thecaves. saw It’s alsopossibleto leads tothelookoutfromwhere theBritish MTDC HolidayResort MTDC Padmpani ParkHotel As there farasfillingyourstomach goes is The MTDC Travellers’ Lodge, justbeside During thedayallMSRTC passing buses . Smallandcleanroomscomewith Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (

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( % 244230; Aurangabad-Jalgaon 244280; padmpanipark@ a AtFardapur, ) MAHARASHTRA

leav- 815 2229774) , which is , which %

( bus stand 07260-221602; dm/d Rs 100/ . Expresses to Mum- . Expresses Sewagram Express, Express, Sewagram %

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Government Rest House as well as wildlife, including lan- as well as wildlife, train station , has a prime location just across the road In addition to being an all-natural beauty The first run from the The first MTDC Tourist Complex Jalgaon’s train station and bus stand are train station and bus stand are Jalgaon’s 450) electric- much but don’t expect from the crater, here. also a basic restaurant ity. There’s Getting There & Away buses a day between a couple of are There hours). Lonar and Aurangabad (Rs 110, five nothing to you then take faith in the fact that, nothing to you then take in its base, it’s as lake with a shallow green as you could hope a spot tranquil and relaxing itself is highlyto find. The lake alkaline and, is excel- taking a dip in its waters apparently, lent for the skin. Scientists suspect that the is still embedded about 600m below meteorite the crater. rim of the southeastern home to several is edge the crater’s treatment, Hindu temples an array peacocks, gazelles and monkeys, gur birds. The of the starting point for the trail down to the walk from the 15 minutes’ bottom, is about bus stand. depart every half hour thereafter. The same bus depart every half hour thereafter. (Rs 77, four hours). continues to Aurangabad by autorickshaw). about 2km apart (Rs 12 on RailwayLuxury bus offices Station Rd offer services to Aurangabad (Rs 120, 3½ hours), Pune (Rs 250, Mumbai (Rs 250, nine hours), (normal/sleeper and Nagpur nine hours) Rs 300/350, 10 hours). LONAR METEORITE CRATER slammed ago a meteorite Around 50,000 years this massive behind into the earth leaving some 2km across and measures which crater, 170m deep. It’s the only hypervelocity natural in basalticimpact crater rock in the world – this means stuff, hey! Assuming impressive you wouldn’t come for here for tea with the with for tea for here come you wouldn’t Queen, can’t so if she food is good, but the it then it’ll do just fine. make & Away Getting There Several trains between Mumbai and express Delhi or Kolkata (Calcutta) at Jal- stop briefly gaon are Rs 170/691, eight hours) bai (sleeper/2AC The available. readily at 10.10pm, goes to Nagpur ing from Jalgaon Rs 170/691, eight hours). (sleeper/2AC is at 6am; buses (Rs 38, 1½ hours) to Fardapur

) ai Another ) Opposite Opposite NORTHERN •• Jalgaon MAHARASHTRA malai kofta malai a Just past the Next door to Next door to 2225079; Khandesh Mill % ( 2227354; hotelplaza_jal@yahoo

% (

2223949; [email protected]; Sta- (mains Rs 45-150)

% (

(Navi Peth; mains Rs 20-60) (Navi Peth;

Hotel Plaza

0257 / elev 208m 0257 / Hotel Kewal

Silver Palace Hotel Arya Anjali Guest House luxury might be overstating things a tad – luxury might be overstating colourful Indian food that won’t set your taste to It’s so popular you may have buds aflame. queue for a table. Kelkar Marke, near the clock tower. Serving near the clock tower. Marke, Kelkar tian, Hindu Indian and European Romantic certainly memorable. wall decorations are after the Hotel Plaza, this is the best bet in the Hotel after Egyp- Pharaonic town and the eccentric mix of (veggie balls) to die for. (veggie rooms is the downstairs vegetarian restaurant restaurant vegetarian rooms is the downstairs pilau and has Kashmiri which guesthouse designed for fat certainly aren’t or tall people, but for anyone else it will just than the about pass for a night. better Much Complex, Station Rd; s/d from Rs 250/300) autorickshaw stand. The tiny beds in this owner is a mine of useful information. owner is a mine of mix range of styles and sizes. The effusive effusive styles and sizes. The of mix range of paint you too could create an establishment too could create paint you of rooms are The snow-white Plaza. Hotel like simple and efficient and come in a pick-and- Hotel owners throughout Maharashtra take take throughout Maharashtra owners Hotel licks and a few care With just a little love, note. o .com; Station Rd; dm/s/d from Rs 150/200/250; Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating 24-hour have in Jalgaon the hotels Most of checkout.

You can find a couple of banks, ATMs and banks, ATMs of You can find a couple is the Rd, which cafés along Nerhu internet Station Rd. top of road running along the Information Information makes a great base for the Ajanta Caves, 60km Caves, base for the Ajanta a great makes to the south. a small country town full of happy people. happy people. of a small country town full Jalgaon practically, Secondly, more and much cause the town keeps a couple of alluring aces causea couple of keeps the town a popula- despite stuffed up its sleeve. Firstly, like feels Jalgaon some half a million, tion of more than a dreary transit town – which, in transit town – which, than a dreary more fact, it is. However, be- it’s not all bad news Built on the passing rail trade, you might passing Built on the be as nothing Jalgaon for thinking of forgiven JALGAON JALGAON % Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book the Hotel Plaza this restaurant’s claims of claims of Plaza this restaurant’s the Hotel tion Rd; d with/without AC from Rs 775/525; in India’s legion of drab hotels. Despite this, this, Despite hotels. drab in India’s legion of MAHARASHTRA Cyber Zoo on themaindrag. Computrek Information theboxedor October); see text, below . sake isduringthe one timeNagpurisworthvisitingforitsown buys are thenear-fluorescent claypots.The in isthecolourfulcentralmarket –thestar call of sites. Whatisworthproddingabout mall andalessshinyprisoninthetowns’roll of attractionsthatlocalslistashinyshopping interesting hassuch adearth butthecityitself nilgais andseldom-spotted tigers. leopards, whilethelatter hostsgaurs, chitals, The formerhas bears, wilddogsandelusive Tiger Reserve Andhari NavagaonNationalPark venient headingtotheisolated stopforthose ( around Sevagram opposite ), Nagpurisacon- ( imity toRamtek opposite ) andtheashrams corner of Maharashtra. Inadditiontoitsprox- ofpoint foraseries tripsintothefareastern fluent citywhich makes agoodjumping-off ofgrowing capital India,isacleanandaf- Nagpur, thegeographic centre andorange- % NAGPUR either townwillcostatleastRs1800. and driver. Afulldaythere andbackfrom from AurangabadorJalgaon ifyouhire acar dapur withachange atBuldhana. Lonar canalsobereached bybusfromFar- 816 Mon-Sun) Anothercentralinternetcafé. It’s possibletovisitLonaronadaytrip The countryside around Nagpur might be The countrysidearoundNagpurmight www.ambedkar.org. his life. BuddhismandthefightforDalit parity, see Formore informationonDrAmbedkar, tenets oftheBuddha,hestated, ‘Ishallbelieve intheequalityof man’. that wasrepeated byanestimated three millionlow-caste Hindus. Alongwithvowsembracing would ever beeradicated 1956,heconverted toBuddhisminNagpur,an act and,on14October he unrelentingly soughtequalityforthedepressed classes. anything forfear ofritualpollution.Thus beganalifelong campaignforDalit rights,inwhich returned to Indiatoencounter discriminationwith even hisworkmates refusing tohandhim ofRatnagiri in1891.Afterborn intoaDalithouseholdinthedistrict studyingintheWest,he alow-caste who became LawMinisterandScheduledCastes Hindu Ambedkar, leader. Hewas One ofthemosthighlyrespected historywas humanitarians inMaharashtra’s Dr BhimraoRamji UNTOUCHABLE CHAMPION 0712 /pop2.1millionelev305m OTENMHRSTA • apr MAHARASHTRA ••Nagpur NORTHERN Every DussehraFestival yearthousandscometoNagpur during theHindu tocommemorate prejudice lostfaiththatHindu againstDalitsDespite forthepeople,DrAmbedkar hisvictories (54CentralAve; perhrRs15; (18CentralAve; perhrRs20)Internetaccess Dussehra Festival , 150kmsouthof Nagpur. , 135kmeast,and h (September (September 10am-10pm Tadoba- rnet.in; Central Ave; s/d with TV fromRs350/500) rnet.in; CentralAve; s/dwithTV Ave; s/dRs450/575,withAC775/850; .in; s/dRs1700/2200; exchange. minute walkwestofthetrainstation.Dealswithforeign best budget hotel, butit’snothingtorave any awardsforimagination. large, plainandcleanroomsthatdon’twin hotels with tothetrainstation the closest ithasthecheapestHowever, bedsintown. expect tofindabove ’70snightclub. aseedy and theroomsare pretty much thetypeyou’d reception outof isstraight abad’70snightclub with ACRs550/650; bathroomRs250/350, bathroom fromRs150/200,withprivate .hotelbluediamondnagpur.com; 113CentralAve; s/dwithshared men thantourists. tion here ismore onIndianbusiness- focused costsaroundRs20.Theaccommoda- stand Aveautorickshaw toCentral fromthebus 10-minute walkeastof An thetrainstation. tels are clustered Ave, alongnoisyCentral a The majority of thebudget andmidrange ho- Sleeping &Eating BankofIndia State office MTDC (meals Rs50to120). a diverse range of food IndianandChinese restaurant, which hasregular live music,has clean. Thereceptionist isvery helpfulandthe about. Roomsare drab, dreary andnonetoo opposite HotelHardeo. Sitabuldi; Hotel Skylark Hotel BlueMoon Hotel BlueDiamond Hotel Hotel Hardeo Hotel h ( 10am-5.45pm Mon-Sat)Inthecompound Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com %

a 2533325; SanskrutikBachatBhavan, ( ( % % ai (

( Themirrored ceilinginthe ) % % 2529116; hardeo_ngp@sancharnet 2724654; fax2726193;119Central

( % 2531099; Kingsway) A two- 2531099; Kingsway) 2726061; ktcbaja_ngp@sancha ) Around1kmeastof 2727461; fax2727460;www a ) Thisisthe Oneof MAHARASHTRA

817 8am- on the on the h 6am-9pm) Sevagram h . (

mosque temples (admission Rs 5; , which is lined with is lined with , which 6.30am-6.30pm) 07114-255620; d with/without AC departs from Nagpur at at from Nagpur departs h % (

has large but overpriced rooms but overpriced has large ) 284753; Ambala Tank a % Kalidas Memorial (

, on the top of the hill beside the main main the hill beside the , on the top of 07152 On the road to the temples you’ll pass the On the road to the temples The On the hilltop and not far from the temples, Buses run half-hourly between Ramtek SEVAGRAM SEVAGRAM % Sevagram, Service, of the Village Ma- is where Gandhi setup base in the long run to hatma Independence and established the Ashram 8.30pm) (also classical Sanskrit dramatist Kalidas other is a number of There spelled Kalidasa). temple including a Jain in the area, temples the hill and a at the base of hill. opposite Rajkamal Resort that come with TVs. has a basic The hotel restaurant-bar. bus stand in Nagpur (Rs 24, and the MSRTC back to Nagpur is The last bus 1½ hours). at 8.30pm. Rama and are positively bubbling with play- bubbling with Rama positively and are It’s said in the epic Ramayanaful monkeys. that Rama with Sita and spent time here Lakshmi. you the will cart Autorickshaws 5km from the bus stand to the main temple you can walk back complex for Rs 25 and at the the 700 steps down to the town via the complex. back of delightful appear to be which most of small temples or waters back into the lake slowly dissolving An hour disappearing into the undergrowth. or so spent poking your nose into nooks and a real like you feel can make crannies here avail- are Boat rides around the lake explorer. able for Rs 20 per person. bai Howrah Mail Howrah bai 5.50am at at Howrah and arrives 11.05am Five Rs 345/1398, 1138km). (sleeper/2AC stop at Jalgaon expresses Mumbai-bound Rs 170/691, sleeper/2AC caves; (for Ajanta also connections are seven There hours). between Nagar and Bengaluru, Delhi and Hyderabad. AROUND NAGPUR Ramtek the in- Nagpur, of 40km northeast About 600-year-old teresting Ramtekatop the Hill of squat happily of temple complex, is dedicated to the famous to the famous complex, is dedicated temple Rs 900/700;

, on , on upma Mum- is 2km 131) Jet Airways % (

Directly op- Directly 2726221) % (

(snack bars), food (snack bars), has flights to Hy- This is one of the better the better of This is one train station dhabas originates in Nagpur and in Nagpur and originates 2533962) NORTHERN •• Around Nagpur MAHARASHTRA % (

(Central Ave)

MSRTC bus stand has flights (US$126, to Mumbai (Central Ave; mains Rs 25-80) mains (Central Ave;

5617888) Shivraj Krishnum The dozens of The dozens of % pur. Heading north to Kolkata the Heading pur. Rs 288/1165, 14 hours) at 6.10pm. The same at 6.10pm. The same Rs 288/1165, 14 hours) train departs Mumbai at 7.40pm for Nag- departs for Mumbai CST (sleeper/2AC (sleeper/2AC departs for Mumbai CST Nagpur Junction the Mumbai–Howrah line, is an impressive town. The overnight of edifice in the centre Express Vidarbha TRAIN TRAIN bus to Hyderabad (Rs 350, 12 hours) leaves leaves (Rs 350, 12 hours) bus to Hyderabad at 6pm. roar off daily to Jalgaon (semideluxe/deluxe (semideluxe/deluxe roar off daily to Jalgaon and a semideluxe Rs 300/350, 10 hours), head regularly for Wardha (Rs 40, two hours) for Wardha (Rs 40, two hours) head regularly and Ramtek Two buses (Rs 24, 1½ hours). The main Buses area. the train station and hotel south of BUS BUS and IndiGo zooms to Mumbai and Kolkata. and IndiGo zooms to Mumbai and Kolkata. the airport to the from Taxis/autorickshaws cost Rs 300/150. city centre Nagpur up with Ahmedabad, Bengaluru, and Pune, Hyderabad Chennai (Madras), twice daily). Air Deccan has cheap daily flights twice daily). Air Deccan has cheap to Mumbai and Hyderabad. Kingfisher hooks (US$93, 1½ hours, three weekly). three (US$93, 1½ hours, ( Delhi (US$108, 1½ hours, daily) and Kolkata Delhi (US$108, 1½ hours, AIR AIR Indian Airlines derabad (US$75, one hour, twice weekly), twice daily), Mumbai (US$93, 1¼ hours, tion rouse in the evening. is the best Summer time to sample the famed oranges. Getting There & Away stalls the train sta- and fruit stands opposite (spicy South Indian semolina pancake), fruit (spicy South Indian semolina pancake), Indian snacks you’ll juices and other South why. understand eating choices on the main road and once you on the main road and once eating choices sample great its thalis (Rs 30 to 60), large, clean rooms are past their sell-by date. date. past their sell-by rooms are clean large, restaurant. a good There’s doorman to know that this business-class know that this business-class doorman to so the Even the bunch. of is the best hotel the train station. You only have to look at to look station.the train have You only the moustachethe drooping tail and of coats lonelyplanet.com posite the Krishnum, the Shivraj has similar has the Krishnum, the Shivraj posite and a mean dosa. South Indian tastes MAHARASHTRA casual visitor tosee. There’s littleforthe Wardha or Sevagram. it’s Rs50inanautorickshaw toPaunar from from Nagpurruns pasttheashram;otherwise a bathroomisavailable; callahead.The bus and board(about Rs75)intworoomssharing central management. accommodation Basic ated onasocialsystem of withno consensus swarajya almost entirely bywomen.Dedicated to million hectares. to persuade of themtoforkoutatotal 1.6 for redistribution tothepoor–hemanaged India askingrich landlordstohandover land Bhave. Thispersistent soulwalked through 2-6pm) Ashram Nagpur atPaunar isthe on theroadto Just 3kmfromSevagram AROUND SEVAGRAM shaw willcostRs60forthe8kmtrip. Wardha (Rs5,20minutes), oranautorick- and Wardha(Rs40,twohours). runmorebuses frequently Nagpur between faster, one-hour expresses). Express MSRTC on theslowcountrytrainsorRs42 (Rs16 press trainsfromNagpurtoSevagram There are Railway. aroundfive ex- the Central bothof trainstations, which areSevagram on The ashramcanbereached fromWardhaor Getting There&Away intheashram’sdininghall. meals are served theashram.Vegetarianin advancethrough Rs 80) presented. fortunate theexhibitionissodullandpoorly graphs. Forsuch figure, animportant it’sun- Wed-Mon) Exhibition dhi Picture famous walkingstick. as someof hispersonal includinghis effects, the great man’stoilet(Western style!),aswell that Gandhilived in,oneof which contains of avisitareThe highlights the originalhuts be recommended todie-hardGandhifans. where it’sonlyto and,withvery littletosee, and research centres, isalongwayfrom any- hectares of farmland,aswellresidences 818 Local buses goregularlyLocal buses to theashramfrom The peacefulashram,encompassing40 With just33members, theashram isrun Very basic lodgingisavailable in Across theroadfrom ashram,the , across the road from the entry gate – book , acrosstheroadfromentrygate –book OTENMHRSTA • oknCat Coast SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••Konkan , theashramof Gandhi’sdiscipleVinoba

( % , traceshislife oldphoto- through (rural self-sufficiency), it’s oper- (ruralself-sufficiency), 07152-288388;

(admission free; h 6am-10am, 11am-noon& Brahmavidya Mandir Mandir Brahmavidya h Yatri Nivas 10am-6pm Gan- (d (d

fishing townof Murud isthemostobvious About 165kmsouthof Mumbai,thesleepy % Murud of which theMaldives wouldbejealous! give. The rewards are foryourefforts beaches ers’ –begenerous houses withhowmuch you have invillag- sleeping tospendsomenights drift slowlydownthecoasttoGoa. Youmay area then rent acaranddriver inMumbaiand dots. Ifyouwanttogainthemostfromthis helpconnectupthe towns whilelocalbuses provides accesstosomeofRailway thebigger tomed toforeigners. theKonkan However, fully slowandthelocalscompletely unaccus- scarce, thefoodmonotonous,transportpain- region totravel accommodationis through; forts.It’snottheeasiest collapsing clifftop disco-green paddyfields,heaped-uphillsand little-explored fringe of superlative beaches, fromthebeatento deviate track.It’s aremote, travellers –willsuitthose reallySea wishing theWestern GhatsandArabian strip between Maharashtra’s Konkan Coast–thenarrow KONKAN COAST MAHARASHTRA SOUTHERN and holidays youwon’thave towait long. minimum of 20passengers. Onweekends part from7amto 6pmdaily,butrequire a Port, about 5kmsouthof Murud.Boatsde- boat (Rs12return, 10minutes) fromRajpuri rubble anditsinterior backintoforest. Mother Nature: itswallsare slowlyturningto conqueredhas finallybeen bynone otherthan haji, attempted totunnelit.Todaythefort andhisson,Samb- tried toconqueritbysea Marathas tothemighty nable, even –Shivaji Thismadethefortutterlyfrom thesea. impreg- toemerge wallsseem straight its 12m-high of Africa. constructed Although onanisland, descendants of sailor-traders fromtheHorn ofthe 16th-centurycapital theSiddisof Janjira, was builtin1140bySiddiJahor andbecame you’ll behappyyoucame. fortress of from Mumbai)andthecommandingisland fromalittlepollution carried down suffering first portof call.With astrikingbeach (though The onlywaytoreach Janjira is bylocal Standing alittlewayoffshore,Standing thefortress 02144 /pop12,551 Janjira , 5kmsouthof thevillage, lonelyplanet.com MAHARASHTRA Bank 819 235223; %

( Hotel Shiv Sagar , serving local temple ) ) . This massive pink . This massive is nicely ensconced , which can change can change , which 235248; fax 235328; d with/ a a 235248; 2-/4-bed tents Rs 300/ % ( %

( 235304) (mains Rs 40-90)

% (

with its Swayambhu Ganpati, Ganpati, with its Swayambhu 25147163; [email protected]; d with/ Tent ResortTent MTDC Resort % (

might be a cheaper option but the tents tents option but the might be a cheaper

, 5am-9pm) Foreign tourists do not frequent Ganpati- tourists do not frequent Foreign The There are several places to stay are in and There One MSRTC bus heads daily to Ganpatipule One MSRTC from Mumbai, Rs 250, 10 hours) (semideluxe near transport terminal road the state leaving Mumbai Central bus stand at 7.30pm. The bus rumbles back to Mumbai from Ganpatipule at ordinary buses head down 6.00am. Frequent to Ratnagiri (Rs 30, one hour). Palace without AC from Rs 1400/1200; among the palms and has the prime beachside spot. Its 500) hot. The re- no security very and can get have sports, has a water a variety of sort offers of Maharashtra and the but not currency, cheques travellers Restaurant Tarang fish curry. MTDC as Malvani specialities such (Rs 1200 day tour, tours can also organise that include the region Rs 500 evening tour) of visits. a boat cruise and village GETTING THERE & AWAY around the town but a kilometre or so from kilometre around the town but a is the unforgettable the beach without AC from Rs 1000/1500; arches colonnades, domes and full of structure, on LSD. hotel a tacky Laslooks like Vegas is big enoughThe sweeping to park driveway a 747 on and, once inside the hallowed halls, plastic orange world of kitsch a you’ll discover gold tables towering chandeliers, palm trees, staying It’s worth for the novelty and mirrors. The stunning seafactor alone. views, good veg- attitude and a professional etarian restaurant class to the place. bring an unexpected perfect beaches and clean waters that leave that leave waters and clean beaches perfect the year of For much for dead. Goa those of but woe slowly along very plods betide life peace and for a bit of here anyone coming is the Indian holidays (Diwali quiet during come Theseespecially busy). tourists haven’t and sand sun though, of for the hedonism but town’s seasiderather for the h discovered allegedly a lurid orange), (painted ago. 1600 years to be an object likely you are and pule often patch considerable curiosity. For a quieter of in front of sand, head towards the beach of Resort. Tent the MTDC or ‘naturally formed’ monolithic Ganesh monolithic Ganesh or ‘naturally formed’

A ) a Patel Inn •• Konkan MAHARASHTRA SOUTHERN Coast , estate of the the , estate of 274078; www.gold % 276744; opposite Kumar (

, serving fish fresh % (

The first place you come to place you come The first ) Ahmedganj Palace a

274153; mains Rs 40-60) 02357 02357

The nearest railhead on the Konkan Rail-The nearest Both the above serveBoth the above food, but the Golden Mirage Holiday Homes

If you want to be right on the sand, the Back in Murud you can waste away the Backthe away you can waste in Murud Golden Swan Beach Resort % Mumbai, has several kilometres of almost almost of Mumbai, has several kilometres Ganpatipule, on the coast 375km south of on the coast 375km south of Ganpatipule, % Ganpatipule Ganpatipule an autorickshaw will be about Rs 120. Rickety will be about Rs 120. Rickety an autorickshaw local buses from Alibag head down the coast Alternatively, to Murud (Rs 27, two hours). buses from Mumbai Central bus stand take to Murud (Rs 130). almost six hours Roha. away in two hours way is about take the hydrofoil the ticket includes a free includes a free ticket the the hydrofoil take otherwiseshuttle bus to Alibag (30 minutes), Gateway of India cruise to Mandva. If you India cruise to Mandva. of Gateway GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE (Rs 60, one hour) ferries In Mumbai regular from the (Rs 110, 45 minutes) or hydrofoils ( you drool. dishes that make Otherwise, in the town centre, try Otherwise, centre, in the town Swan Beach the best selection. Resort offers beach to the north of Murud has a number to the north of beach stay places to homes or either in people’s of in simple guesthouses. cottages Rs 4000; enswan.com; Darbar Rd; d with/without AC from Rs 1800/1000, Several strung options are accommodation road. out along Murud’s beach SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING & EATING swim, there’s a near-pristine beach a couple beach a near-pristine swim, there’s to the north. kilometres of Siddi Nawab of Murud, or scramble around Murud, or scramble of Siddi Nawab tombs on the south the decaying mosque and spot to town. If you want a quieter side of days on the beach, peer through the gates of peer of through beach, days on the the gates the off-limits beach road. beach midroad shrine on Darbar Rd, Murud’s main on Darbar Rd, Murud’s midroad shrine To get to Rajpuri an either take from Murud, To get (Rs 4 a bicycle 45) or hire (Rs autorickshaw the the small shop opposite per hour) from Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book as the bus enters town and also the plushest. as the bus enters clean and brightly decorated. The rooms are Talkies, Darbar Rd; d with/without AC Rs 1500/600; Talkies, small and friendly hotel with a pretty garden with a pretty small and friendly hotel – so simple that not and clean, simple rooms a roof! all the bathrooms have MAHARASHTRA admission free; taurant serving goodIndianfood. serving taurant will findanarray of simplebutsturdy(anda on thebeach or a school of dolphins playing turtles upearly andyoumaysee Get taurant. little overpriced) chalets andanexcellentres- 1200) town, the bumpy 7kmroadinfrom Malvan, thenearest eigners. There are afew onthe placestostay ing isatouristindustrykitted outfor for- Goan beaches. Theonlythingit’sreally lack- and agooddealcleanerthanmany of the have. Infactit’sactuallyconsiderably nicer blue waters tropicalbeach thatevery should andsparkling has thecompulsorywhite sand ofand withinstrikingdistance Goa,Tarkarli Two hundred kilometres southof Ratnagiri % Malvan & Tarkarli hours). and Panaji (Panjim) inGoa(Rs200,seven dailytobothMalvanbuses (Rs110,five hours) stand Ganpatipule (Rs30,onehour).The toKolhapur(Rs97,fourhours)buses and five hours, FridaytoWednesday).The Tuesday) andnorthtoMumbai(Rs137/455, class/chair Rs122/390,3½hours, Thursday to 10.33am town; allexpress trainsstophere, includingthe ( cafés alongthemainroadintotown. wouldn’t wanttoswimorsunbathehere. stroll along A more excitingoptionistotake anevening the Britishfrom1886untilhisdeathin1916. king,Thibaw,wasinterned under Burmese the Tilak, which isnowasmall former homeof freedom Lokmanya fighter anddoasidefromvisitingthe with littletosee forit.It’sahot,stickyworkadaytown be said way), butforatouristthat’sabout allthatcan main transporthub(it’sontheKonkanRail- is thelargest townonthesouthcoastand Around 50kmsouthof Ganpatipule, Ratnagiri % Ratnagiri 820 d withACRs995; stand % Ratnagiri Ratnagiri Just westof thebusstands, There isnoshortage of ATMs orinternet 02365 02352 /pop70,335 Thibaw Palace Thibaw 220120; fax220124;ThibawPalace Rd;s/dRs495/695, beingonlythemost obvious.Here you

OTENMHRSTA • ahrn SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••Matheran ( ( % % Jan Shatabdi 222340) 227882) MTDC HolidayResort MTDC h train station Bhatya Beach a 9am-7pm) , inthetowncentre, , 1kmfurtherwest,hastwo (Thibaw Palace Rd) (Thibaw

) has cleanroomsandares- southtoMargao (2nd , andtheremnants of (

% , but you certainly , butyoucertainly 131) (

museum % is10kmeastof , where thelast Hotel Landmark Hotel 252390; dfromRs

has state has state (Tilak Alley; (Tilak

new bus old

bus

trict, ‘discovered’ Matheran in1850 while of Maharashtra’s hillstations. lookouts,iseasilythemostgorgeoustaking withwalkingtracksandbreath-crisscrossed amidashadySahyadris Mountains forest Matheran Topped),resting atopthe (Jungle % MATHERAN costs Rs60. Malvanautorickshaw between andTarkarli (Rs100,sixhours). An toRatnagiri of services Panaji, Goa(Rs85,five hours) andacouple dailyto is Rs300.Malvan buses hasseveral ickshaw fromKudaltoMalvan orTarkali van here(Rs 35,onehour)runbetween andMal- west of thecoast.Reasonablyfrequent buses ples liewithinthe3kmof fortwalls. above theentrance. tem- Avillage andseveral footprints canbefoundinoneof theturrets impregnable hishand-and islandcitadel; Chhatrapati Shivaji helpedbuildthisalmost (Rs 27)fromMalvan. thatthegreat It’ssaid island anditcanbereached byfrequent ferry 1664, iseasilyvisiblefloatingonitsoffshore backwater tours onitshouseboat. in thewaters. Alsoinquire attheresort about time of research repair workwasongoing and shenanigans thankstotrack damage. Atthe crippled, alsoput atemporary endtosuch hundreds across thestatedeadandMumbai monsoonof 2005, whichthe devastating left 21km route totheheartof thevillage, but toy train(minitrain)chugged along ascenic the fun;fromNeralJunctionanarrow-gauge ludicrous. it’s packed tothegillsandhotel pricesget periods of May toJune,DiwaliandChristmas – –thepeakholiday season during thetruehigh Matheran clogged withday-trippers, while weekendsbernates. generally Otherwise see the monsoon-muddedvillage practicallyhi- tourists, butless sure of foreigners. very friendlytown,wellgeared upforIndian an idealplacetorest theears andlungs.It’sa ban onmotorvehicles andbicycles,makingit Theplaceowesitstranquillitytoa station. thereafter itquickly becameapopularhill climbing thepathknownasShivaji’s Ladder; The closest train station isKudal,38km trainstation The closest The monstrous Getting toMatheranGetting tobehalf alwaysused From aroundmid-JunetoearlyOctober Hugh Malet,Hugh collectorfortheThanedis- 02148 /pop5139elev803m bus stand

( % 252034) Sindhudurg Fort Sindhudurg . Otherwise anautor-. Otherwise lonelyplanet.com , datingfrom MAHARASHTRA 821 D1 (15km) To Neral 9 10 down the D , be sure to give to give , be sure Garbut Point , allegedly trod , allegedly on the way back 10 Ticket Office 6 One Tree Hill Echo Point also have stunning views also have Shivaji’s Ladder To Panorama Point (2.5km) Charlotte Lake EATING TRANSPORT Panorama Rd Garden View Restaurant...... B2 Rasna Restaurant...... (see 7) Dasturi Car Park...... 00 1 mile 2 km

Garbut Rd Tank Simpson Little Chouk Point Horses can be hired from people along MG can be hired Horses

from Echo Point, but don’t go for a swim – Point, but don’t from Echo in Matheran – they can be as early as 7am. – they in Matheran standard high-season are Rates here quoted then busy weekend prices, but if it’s a very prices will do their best to push most hotels all the accommoda- Regardless, even higher. and standards are tion is highly overpriced the lowest in Maharashtra. some of it a yell. Stop at supply. You can this is the town’s main water the valley below reach path known as leader himself. upon by the Maratha Rd – you will certainly – for be approached rides to lookout points; they cost about Rs 200 per hour. Sleeping & Eating sit near the train sta- places budget A few and upscale the midrange tion, but most of between accommodation is 10 and ‘resort’ from the walk away (1½ hours 20 minutes’ Dasturi car park). Checkout times vary wildly and visiting and if you’re

Hart Rd (MG) Point Gandhi

Alexander Point Pramod Lodge Train

2

Station 9 Mahatma Cemeteries (1.5km); 5

(also

Hospital Main Bazaar Main Little Chouk Point (1.5km) To Rambaug Point (1.5km); Point 7 BJ Municipal Monkey 3

Kasturba Rd 4

B Louisa Point next to the Shivaji Rd Shivaji 230282; MG Rd; •• Matheran MAHARASHTRA SOUTHERN tourist office 1 , on Mahatma , on Mahatma

D1 A3 B3 B3 B2 B3 B3 % ( Lake 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Charlotte Porcupine Point changes travellers travellers changes 230354) Park Paymaster %

( 8 Echo Point Shivaji's Ladder (1.5km) To One Tree Hill (1.5km); Lord Point is the most dramatic place to Union Bank of India Pisarnath Temple Point (1km) AC To Porcupine inside the MTDC Resort inside the MTDC Point Point Louisa Coronation INFORMATION SLEEPING Rucha Heritage Hotel...... B3 Hope Hall Hotel...... Lord’s Central Hotel...... MTDC Resort...... Verandah in the Forest...... MTDC Tourist Office...... (see 6) MTDC Tourist Office...... (see Police Station...... Post Office...... Union Bank of India...... 3) Vishwa’s Photo Studio...... (see 230540) 10am-2pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Vishwa’s Photo Studio MATHERAN 2 3 1 % glimpse the sunrise, while known as Sunset Point) is the most popular as the sun drops. packed) (read: and it’s a place suited to stress-free ambling. to stress-free and it’s a place suited then got the early morning energy If you’ve Point Panorama You can walk along shady forest paths to most to paths forest You can walk along shady hours of viewpoints in a matter Matheran’s of h only. cheques Sights and Activities ( car park. The (Rs 25) and is actually a far better source of source of (Rs 25) and is actually a far better information than the so-called Gandhi (MG) Rd, sells useful miniguides Entry to Matheran costs Rs 25 (Rs 15 for chil- Entry to Matheran you pay on arrival at the train which dren), station or the car park. chugging through ‘One Kiss Tunnel’ by the time this book hits the shelves. Information it’s hoped that the train will once again be Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book MAHARASHTRA Rs 650) .com; MGRd;s/dRs800/1600,valleyview1700/3400; merous ‘ from canejuice)andnuts.Finditat thenu- Rs 250 and take 20 to 30 minutes. A seat inaRs 250and take 20to30 minutes. Aseat From Neral toMatheran costaround taxis TAXI Getting There& Away the jawsmadeof honey andfor such asmilkshakes andburgers. value andincludesafew Matheran surprises Restaurant attraction. the star Matheran comewithagardenview.Thalisare Rs 60-100) breakfastnental anddinner)are very good. meals(Indianlunch, conti- Vic.Theset Queen and areception wouldn’tamuse thatcertainly bit hitandmiss. It’s letdownbylousyservice ern distractionsandtheelectricitycanbea racing. Thehotel iscompletely withoutmod- Raj-lovers’ willsend creaky house Barr hearts the 19th-centuryauraandperiodfurniture of amidtheforest toCharlotte Lake, close Set fromRs2000/2500) dweekdays/weekends ranahotels.com; per person ratherthanperroom. warned thatwhentheyquote pricestheymean of informationandtherooms are decent.Be the largest chess Theowners are set. awealth and mostinvitingswimmingpoolaswell win anotherawardforhaving thecleanest to for moststunningview.Italsodeserves is character. Checkoutis24hours. of thewomanwhorunsthis joint,isquite a ers. Junior,theIronMaiden–adoring brother rooms withsquattoiletsandhotbucket show- This lovely ramshackle buildinghasoverpriced tion andthetidyroomsare goodvalue. town withtheirgear. Apeaceful,woodedloca- whoarethose toolazytowalkallthewayinto but atthispricewho’scomplaining? don’t lastlongandtheroomsmatch up, is inthethickof theaction.First impressions This grandandformalwhite-pillared building 822 Matheran is famedforitslocallyproduced toRuchaAttached Heritage Hotel, intheForest Verandah Hotel Lord’s Central Hope HallHotel Hotel Rucha Heritage Garden View Restaurant View Garden Resort MTDC OTENMHRSTA • oal SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••Lonavla NexttoDasturicarparkandgoodfor ) The Lord’s Central winstheaward TheLord’sCentral Locals insist that the tastiest meals in Localsinsistthatthetastiest chikki

( % 230072; MGRd;mainsRs70-110)

( chikki marts’andshops onMGRd. %

( % gur 230540; fax 230566; d with TV from 230540; fax230566;dwithTV ( , arock-hardworkoutfor

230253; MGRd;dfromRs1500)

% (unrefined sugarmade ( %

230072; MGRd;dfromRs500)

( % ( % 230228; www.matheran 230550; MGRd;mains 230296; www.neem isgood Rasna

bai CST andget atNeral(2nd/1stclass off a suburbanKarjat-bound trainfromMum- the frequent localtrains.Alternatively, take tion, fromwhere youcanbacktrackononeof downthelinefromNeralJunc- stop atKarjat, until 10.31am.Mostexpresses fromMumbai Express class/chair Rs34/142,7.10am).The to NeralJunctionisthe nus (CST) themostconvenient express train office. ervation res-tions inadvancefromanycomputerised of trainsperday.Ifpossible,make reserva- is completed, youcanexpectasimilarnumber were farlessfrequent. When therepair work journeys. Duringthemonsoonperiodtrains andanequalnumberoftrain station return three departures dailyfromNeralJunction Prior totheclosure of thetrainthere were tracks isexpected tocontinueuntillate 2007. monsoon of 2005andrepair worktothe The toytrainwasputoutof actionbythe TRAIN and expecttopayRs200perhorse orcart. dust toyourhotel of choice –bargain hard here inabundancetowhiskyouacloudof zaar area. Horses andrickshaws are waiting car park,anhour’shike fromMatheran’s ba- shared isRs50.Taxis taxi stopattheDasturi from the big city and is promoted by the local from the big cityandispromoted bythelocal to weekenders and conference groups coming Lonavla, 106kmsoutheast of Mumbai,caters % LONAVLA of attaching acarttohorse. some reason nobodyappears to have thought options are yourownfeet, orahorse. For from therickshawsonlyother transport from theDasturicarparktotown. Apart rickshaw); theycharge Rs200tohaulyouup are these even more(though barrowcartthan where you’ll findhand-pulledrickshaws Matheran isoneof thefew placesleftinIndia Getting Around there. andgetthat stopsatKarjat alocaltrainfrom ing at10.09am.Alternatively, take anexpress only express stoppingatNeralJunction,arriv- AC(sleeper/2 Rs101/280,twohours) isthe Rs 20/120,2½hours). From Punethe7am From MumbaiChhatrapatiShivaji Termi- 02114 /pop55,650 /elev625m (9am) doesn’t arrive atNeralJunction (9am)doesn’t Deccan Express Sahyadri Express Sahyadri lonelyplanet.com Koyna (2nd

MAHARASHTRA ) is C1 C1 823 Balaji a (50km) To Pune 10 km 16 17 200 m 6 miles Bedsa Caves 0.1 miles D 13 Kamshet Train Station 273039; www.kdham Dam Pawana Dam Shirsta Lonavla % 1 ( Train Station 9 12 Justice Telang Rd 0 0

Station Rd 2 8 Lonavla Bus Stand...... Famous Cycles...... TRANSPORT 0 0 , immediately south of the train the of south , immediately 16

Hwy 9 17 Shivaji Rd 6 3 (1st fl, Khandelwal per hr Rs 20; Bldg, New Bazaar; 4

14 Mumbai-Pune Expwy Mumbai-Pune Bhaja Village 10 7 15

12.30-10.30pm) Mumbai-Pune

Change money in Mumbai or Pune as as in Mumbai or Pune money Change Mumbai-Pune Hwy Mumbai-Pune Malavli town, which includes a busy market, is south a busy market, includes which town, station. the of 11 .com; s/d Indian Rs 400/600, foreigner from US$15/24; .com; s/d Indian Rs 400/600, foreigner by those seeking yogic healing. It was favoured Kuvalayanandji founded in 1924 by Swami none of the banks here deal in foreign ex- deal in foreign the banks here none of at access is available Internet change. Cyber Café h station. Activities 2km from Set grounds about kept in neatly just off the Mumbai–Pune Hwy on Lonavla the Caves, and Bhaja the way to the Karla Kaivalyadhama Yoga Hospital Train Station Waksai Varsoli the rock- B 5 Dam Valvan C4 C1 C1 C3 D2 D2 C1 C1 D2 C2 C4 C3 B3 C3 chikki, 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Lake Shivam Falls 10 11 12 13 14 15 Tungarli Lonavla Dam

Bhushi Hwy

•• Lonavla SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA

See Enlargement Fort Pune Troppo Point - Rajmachi Lake AC Lonavla Mumbai Khandala Train Station Lohagad Fort...... C4 Fruit Market...... Hotel Gurukripa...... Hotel Rama Krishna...... Hotel Chandralok...... Hotel Lonavla...... MTDC Karla Resort...... Coopers...... Hindu Temple...... Kaivalyadhama Yoga Hospital...... Karla Cave...... Visapur Fort...... Balaji Cyber Café...... GPO...... Bhaja Caves...... EATING INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING

Mumbai-Pune Expwy Hotels, restaurants and the main road to the restaurants Hotels, LONAVLA & AROUND 2 3 1 4 To Mumbai (100km) caves are a short walk north of the train sta- walk north of a short are caves Lonavla 1). Most of tion (exit from platform are the best in Maharashtra. best in Maharashtra. the are calling card – the nearby Karla and Bhaja Cave and Bhaja Karla calling card – the nearby Ellora and Ajanta, those after of which Temples, hard nut brittle sweet that is made in the area. hard nut brittle sweet that is made in the area. worthwhile very one doesBut Lonavla have Lonavla is a long way off being an attractive being an long way off is a Lonavla drag consists almost exclusivelytown – its main flogging garishly lit shops of is relatively pretty, if a little overdeveloped, and if a little overdeveloped, pretty, is relatively Mumbai. and less humid than the air cooler in the background or precipitous drops to peer drops or precipitous in the background the surrounding countryside but over, fearfully tourist board as a ‘hill resort’. This is a bit of a bit of This is a ‘hill resort’. board as a tourist certainly soaring peaks no are – there misnomer lonelyplanet.com MAHARASHTRA spiffy waiters serving tasty Punjabifare. tasty waitersspiffy serving posite ), thebestbetintown. able, cleanand,after theMTDC Resort( op- closed Wed) stop atLonavla the oldhighway. (ordinary/deluxe Rs44/60,two hours) use a few forPune times daily.Themanybuses while theirAC siblings(Rs100)rev upjust (ordinary/deluxe Rs56/70,three/two hours), ously fromthe Mumbai–Pune Expressway departcontinu- toplythesmooth-moving set State buses Getting There&Away cludes alarge fruitmarket. chocolate fudges. 50 years andisjustlyrenowned foritsgooey inbusinessformoretracks. It’sbeen than ers dishes Rs45-120) dark restaurant. inthiscooland dishes areChinese served Cheap, cheerful reliable andever Punjabi and makestaurant aremarkable Gujaratithali. res- andthein-house outside of season high areon thewallsandsheets. Rates negotiable rooms andafascinatingcollectionof stains thisisafriendlyhotel withdrearythe traffic, d with/withoutACfromRs1200/900; a have a10amcheckout time. themonsoon).Allhotelsthrough listed here out duringweekends andholidays(except Mostplacesareand lowstandards. packed Lonavla’s hotels frominflated suffer prices Sleeping &Eating 25km fromLonavla. atKamshet, flights €250) orshorttandem ing courses (three-day learnercourse from 26493110; www.nirvanaadventures.com) Book inadvance. tures. days. isseven The minimum course aswellprogrammesandlec- yoga sessions therapies. Roomrates cover fullboardand and combinesyogacourses withnaturopathic 824 Hotel Chandralok Hotel If you’ve got a sweet tooth, search out If you’ve tooth,search gotasweet Krishna Rama Hotel Lonavla Hotel Mumbai-based All express trainsfrom MumbaitoPune The bazaar,southof in- thetrain station, Gurukripa Hotel ( ) % Smallfan-onlyroomsthatare comfort- OTENMHRSTA • al hj ae &BhajaCaves SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••Karla 272564; JaychandChowk; , onthesouthernsideof therailway Thesleekest placeintownwith (

% bus stand train station

(Mumbai-Pune Hwy;mainsRs40-80)

( 272914; Mumbai-Pune Hwy;dRs795; % Nirvana Adventures Nirvana

( % 272294; fax272921;ShivajiRd; (

% 273600; Mumbai-Pune Hwy; h 273842) a

( % 11am-1pm &3-5pm, offers paraglid- Set backfrom Set ) 273725) toMumbai

( . Trav- % Coop- 022- towards thecave’s representation of theBud- the mostimpressive cave temple inthestate. from Ellora’sKailasa Temple thisisprobably of more familiarwoodenarchitecture. Aside fromtherockinimitation monks andartisans by andwascarved 40m longand15mhigh, the Completed in80BC, the largest earlyBuddhist lar A 20-minute climbbringsyoutothespectacu- Karla Cave more enjoyable site toexplore. impressive singlecave, butBhaja isaquieter, rickshaw fromLonavla. Karla hasthemost either MumbaiorPuneifyouhire anauto- them worthyof avisit. makecountryside andzerocommercialisation Ellora orAjanta, butthelackof visitors, pretty scaleas India. Theymaynotbeonthesame examples of earlyBuddhistrocktemple art in rock-cut caves are amongtheoldestandfinest these Dating fromaroundthe2ndcenturyBC, KARLA &BHAJACAVES (Mumbai-Pune Hwy;perhrRs5) trains (Rs14,twohours). 122, onehour,64km)andhourlyshuttle there are express trains(2ndclass/chair Rs27/ and costRs35/122in2ndclass/chair. ToPune Cave 12is anopen 10of the18cavesBC, here are Karla Cave. todate fromaround 200 Thought islusher, greenersetting andquieter thanat (Indian/foreigner Rs5/US$2; or ridefromthemainroadto Crossing over theexpressway, it’sa3kmwalk Bhaja Caves scene. and theirpresence addssomecolourtothe intheareadraw forthepilgrimsyou’llmeet the cave thetemple mouth.However isabig by themodern sides of thevestibule oncehadivorytusks. elephantheadsonthe elephants. Thecarved lars formingtheaislesare toppedbykneeling tobeoriginal.The37pil- with teak beamssaid wooden umbrella. Thecave’s roof isribbed dha –adagoba,orstupa,protected byacarved elling fromMumbaitrainstake three hours Bicycles canbehired from The beautyof thiscave issomewhatmarred A semicircular ‘sun window’ filters light in ‘sunwindow’filtersA semicircular in light It’s possibletovisitthecaves inadayfrom Karla Cave Karla Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(Indian/foreigner Rs5/US$2; Hindu temple Hindu chaitya, h . 8am-6pm) earlierthan Karla, chaitya chaitya builtinfrontof viharas, Famous Cycles , where the h isaround Bhaja Caves inIndia. 9am-5pm) while ,

MAHARASHTRA 825 9.30am- 10.30am- h h (Sadhu Vaswani Rd; per (Sadhu Vaswani map of Pune (Rs 60) map of 9.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, (326 Ashok Vijay Complex, (7 Moledina Rd; h 8am-11.30pm) 26346171; 2418 G Thimmaya Rd; h % ( (1st fl, Sohrab Hall, RBM Rd; (1B Gera Sterling, North Main Rd, Koregaon Destination Finder Destination 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Despite the pollution and clogged traffic and clogged the pollution Despite h 9pm) On Raibahadur a diverse Motilal (RBM) Rd, this offers collection of books and magazines, as well as a small café. an ATM at the Pune train station and another an ATM Park Koregaon Rd. Southwest of on Koregaon near the Air India of- is a HSBC ATM, there Rd. On MG Rd you’ll find fice on Mangaldas a UTI Bank ATM. Thomas Cook Cyber-Net Dishnet Hub Internet Centre MAP The is the best map around. You can find it at most bookshops or at the newspaper stand the train station. on platform 1 of MONEY at its main branch Citibank has 24-hour ATMs on East on Bund Gar- St and at the branches Rd. ICICI Bank has den Rd and North Main streets narrow and take on the atmosphere of of on the atmosphere narrow and take streets the Northeast of a traditional bazaar town. the home of Park, train station, Koregaon the Pune ashram and ground zero for Osho upmarket the more scene, is where backpacker to be found. are and bars restaurants Information BOOKSHOPS Crossword Manneys Booksellers INTERNET ACCESS Computology Systems Many maharajas had palaces here, too, taking palaces here, had maharajas Many cooler climate. its of advantage is an go with Indian cities, Pune that typically hang out for a day or two place to interesting to glimpse place touted, the much and a great hard to find, ‘New India’. but sometimes Orientation the Mutha The city sits at the confluence of Gandhi (MG) Mahatma and Mula Rivers. Pune train station, Rd, about 1km south of and is lined with banks, is the main street the here, Southwest of and shops. restaurants 1.30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat) Bootie St; per hr Rs 10; 11am-8pm Sun) hr Rs 30) Park; per hr Rs 30; Park; , which , which •• Pune SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA Visapur Forts and 02114-282230; fax 282370; d cot- % (

The tidy and spacious rooms The tidy and spacious ) Lohagad ai

020 / pop 3.8 million / elev 457m The great Maratha leader Shivaji would be leader Shivaji Maratha The great

Autorickshaws are plentiful, but they drive plentiful, but they drive are Autorickshaws their alternative capital during the monsoon. their alternative business as well as a historic centre and home as well as a historic centre business Resort. Meditation to the Osho in astonished to see city has changed how his the city after was raised here He 500 years. to his grandfather in 1599. The was granted to the British in 1817 and became town fell without a second thought, Pune (pronounced Pune (pronounced without a second thought, and academia of Poona) is a thriving centre % India interweave old and new A place where and a return trip from Lonavla to the Karla to the Karla trip from Lonavla and a return will cost Rs 400. Caves and Bhaja PUNE a hard bargain. The price should include wait- a hard bargain. all up), hours (about three ing time at the sites village (around Rs 70). The last bus from Karla (around Rs 70). The last bus from Karla village at 7pm. leaves to Lonavla by taking an autorickshaw from Karla to Bhaja to Bhaja by taking from Karla an autorickshaw then follow your feet back to Malavli train back to Malavli then follow your feet a local train station (one hour, 3km) to catch You can trim some walking time to Lonavla. first leaves Lonavla at 6am. From Karla, walk at 6am. From Karla, Lonavla leaves first 10km), (minium two hours, Caves to Bhaja Lonavla and Karla Cave (Rs 9, 12km); the (Rs 9, 12km); the Cave and Karla Lonavla If you don’t mind some walking, you can If you don’t mind some walking, you can within a day by public around the sites get local buses run between transport. Frequent Getting There & Away Getting There & Away you either to the caves or back to Lonavla. or back to Lonavla. you either to the caves and is just off the has a restaurant, The resort Mumbai–Pune Hwy. a little lake where you can go boating. Fre- where a little lake quently passing buses can take rickshaws and Lonavla can throw at you. Set can throw at you. Lonavla under the trees, even peaceful – there’s the complex is very Rs 2500; MTDC Karla Resort cottage 1000/600, executive tages with/without AC from Rs local kids will happily lead you to for a tip. happily lead you to for local kids will Sleeping & Eating nine outside a cave. If you avoid weekends and and weekends If you avoid a cave. nine outside you’ll be a good chance there’s holidays then helps to lend an which here, the only visitor your to discovery Indiana Jones–style air of you’ll see Caves the From Bhaja wanderings. the ruins of containing Beyond dagoba. a simple this is a and inside five 14 stupas, huddle of strange Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book on offer here are much better than anything than better much are here on offer MAHARASHTRA 826 0 1 km PUNE 0 0.5 miles OTENMHRSTA • ue SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••Pune A B C D E F Sangam Wadi Rd ὈBund To Aga Khan 9 37 28 To Mumbai (171km); Palace (1.5km); Gardens 3 Rd Nasik (206km) Gandhi National 40 Alandi Rd 44 Boat Club Rd North Main Rd Memorial (1.5km); Bung Rd Narangi Koregaon

46 Park 6 Koregaon Le Méridien...... 29 B2 -Pune Airport (6km); 51 Park 1 Aurangabad (231km) 33 39 National Hotel...... 30 C2 Dhole Patil Rd 27 42 Tadi Walla Rd 26 To ABC Farms (300m); Koregaon Rd Osho Meditation Resort Rd 31 18 Osho 34 High Spirits (300m);

Mumbai 8 Shisha Cafe (300m); Guesthouse...... 31 C1 aldas Teerth Mula River Mang Swiss Cheese Garden (300m); Samrat Hotel...... 32 C2 Shivaji Nagar 1 Garden Rd 10 Gold Ad Labs (1.3km) Taj Blue Diamond...... 33 C1 Train Station 47 Bund ὈὈὈ 54 EATING To Vaishali (2km); 29 5 Arthurs Theme...... 34 E1 Shabree Restaurant (2km); Raibahadur Motilal (RBM) Rd Pune Train Station Queens INFORMATION Café Barista...... 35 C3 University of Pune (4km); Garden To Sholapur Citibank ATM...... 1 C1 Flags...... 36 C2 Ramamani lyengar Memorial 50 21 53 56 (270km) Citibank ATM...... 2 C3 German Bakery...... 37 C1 Yoga Institute (5km) Dr B Ambedkar Rd 23 30 24 36 Richardson 17 To Miraj Citibank ATM...... 3 C1 Juice World...... 38 C3 Sasson52 Rd 7 Computology Systems...... 4 C3 Kayani Bakery...... (see 14) Shivaji Rd (280km) 2 13 32 49 Crossword...... 5 C2 Malaka Spice...... 39 E1

Queen's Garden Rd Rd Cyber-Net...... 6 C1 Prems...... 40 D1 Biramji Rd Manekji Rd Dishnet Hub Internet Centre....7 C2 The Place: Touche the Jangali Maharaj Rd Ὀ 25 11 HSBC ATM...... 8 C1 Sizzler...... 41 C3 ICICI ATM...... 9 C1 Third on the Seventh...... 42 E1 tha River Moledina Rd Mu Prince of Wales Dr Kuk@Ease...... 10 E1 Sadhu Vaswani Main Post Office...... 11 C2 DRINKING 20 22 Ganesh Rd Manneys Booksellers...... 12 C3 Thousand Oaks...... 43 C3 41 12 MTDC Tourist Office...... 13 B2 35 Rokshan Travels...... 14 C3 ENTERTAINMENT Sachapir St4 Laxmi Rd East St Thomas Cook...... 15 C3 Lush...... 44 B1 Dadabhat Butti Marg 45 38 14 UTI Bank ATM...... 16 C3 Laxmi Rd ὈὈ SHOPPING 3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bombay Store...... 45 C3 16 Empress Old Town Sanas Rd Botanical Jangali Maharaj Temple...... 17 A2 Celebrate Shopping Mall...... 46 C1 Gardens Osho Meditation Resort...... 18 D1 Either Or...... (see 5) Shivaji Rd 15 Pataleshvara Cave Temple...(see 17) Fabindia...... 47 C1 19 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd Racecourse Rana Pratap Rd G Thimmaya Rd Raja Dinkar Kelkar S Dorabji Padmali Rd 43 Museum...... 19 A3 TRANSPORT Tilak Rd Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Rd 2 Nava Canal Shaniwar Wada...... 20 A3 Air India...... (see 8) Bajirao Rd Tribal Cultural Museum...... 21 C2 Air Sahara...... (see 5) ὈὈὈὈ Architect College Bus Stop..... 48 A4 Sholapur Rd SLEEPING Bright Travels...... 49 C2 48 lonelyplanet.com Saras To NH9; Grand Hotel...... 22 C3 Indian Airlines...... 50 B2 Baug Nehru Sholapur (270km) Homeland...... 23 B2 Jet Airways...... 51 C1 Gardens 4 Stadium Hotel Ashirwad...... 24 C2 PMT Depot...... 52 B2 Peshwa Badge Rd Tanaji Park Saras Baug Hotel Ritz...... 25 C2 Pune Train Station stand...... 53 B2 Ganesh Temple Wanowri Rd Hotel Srimaan...... 26 C1 Shivaji Nagar Bus stand...... 54 A1 Ma 55 Rd To NH4; Hotel Sunderban...... 27 D1 Swargate Bus stand...... 55 A4 lusare Katraj Snake Park & Zoo (2.5km); Sinhagad (22.5km); Hotel Surya Villa...... 28 D1 Taxi Stand...... 56 C2 Mahabaleshwar (117.5km); ὈὈParvati Temple Satara Rd Kohlapur (230.5km) MAHARASHTRA 827 . Lo-

(Rs 25;

(admission (Shivaji Rd;

, dedicated , dedicated palace 25535941; Jangali Ma- stand in the old stand in the old Osho Teerth Katraj Snake & Park 6am-10pm) 24461556; www.rajakelkar % (

sound & light show h is one of Pune’s true Pune’s is one of % (

(

, a small, unfinished 8th- , behind the commune; the the commune; , behind 8am-6.30pm) . Temple

h museum 9.30am-6pm) (pillared pavilion). Adjacent is the Adjacent pavilion). (pillared 6am-9.30pm) h 24367712; Pune-Satara Hwy; adult/child Rs 3/2; 6-9am & 3-6pm) h % ( h 10.30am-6pm Jul-Mar, to 7pm Apr-Jun, closed Wed) 10.30am-6pm Jul-Mar, Apr-Jun, to 7pm

8.15pm Thu-Tue) Elephanta Island one near Mumbai. It’s an for with people coming here temple, active in the gardens. or simply to relax worship is a circular Nandi the excavation In front of mandapa Jangali Maharaj SHANIWAR SHANIWAR WADA this fortresslike The ruins of admission US$2; the city. Built in 1732, the palace of part of burnt down in 1828, but the rulers the Peshwa sturdy palace as do the walls remain, massive In the evenings with their angry spikes. doors is an hour-long there TEMPLE CAVE PATALESHVARA Set is the curious rock-cut across the river Pataleshvara Cave Temple similar in style to the grander century temple of fish scales and crocodile skin, hundreds hundreds fish scales and crocodile skin, of of hookah pipes and a superb collection of cutters. betel-nut & ZOO SNAKE PARK KATRAJ Indian of good representation is a There on show at the wildlife Zoo h city, the the of on the southern outskirts cated the zoo of natural-looking enclosures large, and breeding built with the requirements are a in mind. It provides the inmates needs of and monkeys, leopards, bears home to tigers, passion real the that are but it’s the reptiles as one of The zoo curator is renowned here. herpetologists. India’s most respected at 9am and 2pm daily. Even if you decide not decide not if you Even and 2pm daily. at 9am the out checking it’s worth resort, the to enter gardens, placid 5-hectare free; all day for those accessible with a gardens are meditation pass. MUSEUM RAJA KELKAR DINKAR This quirky Bajirao Rd; adult/child museum.com; 1377-78 Natu Baug, Rs 200/50; col- the personal delights. The exhibits are Dinkar Gangadhar, who died in Sri lection of or so artworks and 1990. Among the 17,000 armour made a suit of are curios he collected haraj Rd; to a Hindu ascetic who died here in 1818. to a Hindu ascetic who died here h san- 10am- h 2066019999;

% ( is located in a de- is located ashram 26126867/24373277; I Block, 26126867/24373277; 26136304; rokshantravels@ 26125516; Sadhu Vaswani; Sadhu Vaswani; 26125516; % ( •• Pune SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA % % ( ( 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Buried10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) in a h (seekers), many of them Westerners. Westerners. them many of (seekers), 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) The curious can watch a video presentation The curious can watch The commune is big business. Its ‘Multiver- government complex south of the train station and not south of the train station government complex MTDC desk at the train is also a small help. There of great to Saturday, and to station (open 9am to 7pm Monday 3pm Sunday). Central Bldg; hotmail.com; 1st fl, 19 Kumar Pavilion, East St; hotmail.com; 1st fl, 19 Kumar Pavilion, 6pm) Small, friendly outfit. Staff can professional and and domestic and interna- arrange bus and train journeys tional flights, as well as taxis. h silent tour of the facilities (Rs 10; no children) children) the facilities (Rs 10; no silent tour of at the visitor centre and take a 10-minute a 10-minute and take at the visitor centre as you please. If you want to contribute fur- as you please. If you want to contribute ‘Work-as-Meditation’ the resort’s ther, there’s programme. robe). Meditation is Rs 450/150 (foreigner/ is Rs 450/150 robe). Meditation Indian) per day and you can come and go meditation pass. You’ll also need two robes from Rs 300 per (one maroon and one white, on-the-spot HIV test (sterile needles are used), needles (sterile are on-the-spot HIV test day’s introductory sessions and your first visit for the day to meditate you’ll have to pay visit for the day to meditate you’ll have a mandatory registration, Rs 1280. This covers take part in any of the courses, or even just to the courses, part in any of take sity’ runs a plethora of courses in meditation courses sity’ runs a plethora of to If you wish techniques. as well as New Age Samadhi, where the guru’s ashes are kept, is kept, the guru’s ashes are Samadhi, where also open for silent or music-accompanied meditation. spiritual dance is the Osho Auditorium (a Auditorium (a spiritual dance is the Osho zone’!). The Osho and sneeze-free ‘cough-free boutique guesthouse ( p829 ). The main centre ). The main centre p829 boutique guesthouse ( for meditation and the nightly white-robed ‘zennis’ (Zen tennis) and basketball courts, a ‘zennis’ (Zen and basketball tennis) and a and beauty parlour, a bookshop massage Facilities include a swimming pool, sauna, include a swimming Facilities Bhagwan’s death in 1990, the meditation re- Bhagwan’s sort has continued to draw in manifold The Bhagwan Rajneesh’sThe Bhagwan Park) 17 Koregaon www.osho.com; Since the Pune. sirable northern suburb of OSHO MEDITATION RESORT Sights & Activities Sights & Activities yasins Rokshan Travels TRAVEL AGENCIES AGENCIES TRAVEL TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION MTDC tourist office POST POST Main office post lonelyplanet.com MAHARASHTRA carnival rides are upoutside set dozensthe evening, of andkiddie foodstalls enjoy thespotsof shadeunderthetrees. In (admission Rs 2; h At the GARDENS poorly presented. Gandhi’s extraordinarycareer, but it’sallvery (shrines) inthegardens. samadhis prisoned here. Theirashesare kept inmemorial hissecretary for35years,Desai, diedwhileim- Gandhi, theMahatma’s wife, andMahadoebhai ment here fornearlytwoyears. BothKasturba other leaders of India’s Independencemove- resolution in1942,theBritishinterned himand Mahatma delivered hismomentous QuitIndia gar Rd;Indian/foreigner Rs5/100; and River inYerwada isthegrand in6.5hectares ofSet gardensacrosstheMula GANDHI NATIONAL MEMORIAL thing fromtheRiocarnival. papier-mâché festival masksare like some- visitors are completely unaware of. Theornate opens upawholenewsideof Indiathatmost Rd;Indian/foreigner Rs5/10; Richardson this excellent About 1.5kmeastof thePunetrainstation, TRIBAL CULTURAL MUSEUM 828 Photos andpaintingsexhibitmomentsin local community.That, authoritiesclaim,isuptosomeoneelse. resort none ofthemoneygenerated goesintohelpingthepoorordisadvantagedof bytheresort and, justincaseyouwere wondering,despite Osho’scommentsonhownobodyshouldbepoor, privilegesarePrices forthe‘resort’ continuallyontherise,facilities becomeever more luxurious the alteration ofthecentre’s namefrom‘OshoCommuneInternational’ to‘ Osho MeditationResort’. for hisnightlydiscoursesandmeditationcourses. countries. By1987hewasbackatthePune ashram,where thousandsofforeigners soonflocked he andhisfollowers,intheirsearchforanewbase,were fromordeniedentryto21 deported Anepicjourneybeganduringwhichwith immigrationfraud,finedUS$400,000anddeported. runningamok,theBhagwanwaschargedrumours andlocalparanoiaabouttheashram’sactivities (boughttoprove thatmaterial processionshadnomeaning!)grew weeds. like Eventually, with commune andashraminOregon. There, hisashram’snotoriety aswellitsfleetofRollsRoyces of Californian poppsychologyandIndianmysticismtotheUSA,where hesetupanagricultural to enlightenment, tookhiscuriousblend earninghimtheepithet‘sexguru’.In1981Rajneesh religion orphilosophyandoutragedmanyIndians (andothers)withhisadvocacyofsexasapath gurus’andundoubtedly themostcontroversial.flamboyant ‘export Hefollowednoparticular Bhagwan Shree (1931–90), orOshoashepreferred Rajneesh tobecalled,wasoneofIndia’smost THE ARMANI OFASHRAMS 6.30am-7pm) Gandhi NationalMemorial Gandhi OTENMHRSTA • ue SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••Pune They stillcomeindroves. The unveiling ofthecapaciousOshoAuditorium in2002alsomarked Empress BotanicalGardens Empress h cosycoupleson park benches museum 9.30am-5.30pm) (

% h 2636207; 28 Queens Garden, 2636207; 28QueensGarden, (

% 9am-5.45pm) . h 26680250; Ahmedna- Aga Khan Palace Khan Aga

(admission Rs5; 10.30am-5.30pm) Peshwa Park . After the . After the

quickly cover allof Pune’smajor sights. daily, returning around6pm(Rs128).They Courses years.practising yogaforatleasteight tohaveof youneed thetrainstation, been Rd,ModelColony) Mandir ( atthisfamous To attended classes INSTITUTE RAMAMANI IYENGARMEMORIALYOGA to grab a good night’s sleep. Qualityvaries sleep. to grab agood night’s private bathrooms, thisisthecheapest way room withashared bathroomandRs250for ellers atRs150for a and,withprices starting Many familiesrent roomsouttopassingtrav- has becomethemainbackpackers’ hang-out. its proximity totheOsho Meditation Resort, andKoregaontrain station Park, which, with over Punebutthe mainhubsare aroundthe There’s noshortage of accommodationall Sleeping 8am-noon &3-6pm) depot nicipal Transport Good bustours of Puneleave the Tours equipment andingredients supplied. person ingroupof fourRs1600/600),with one-day cookery courses (singleperson/per .com; C-8,Sapphire Apts,Lane6,Koregaon Park) Kuk@ease % 25656134; www.bksiyengar.com; 1107B/1Hare Krishna (

% Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 30938999/09371207599; antimaa@rediffmail , near the train station, at9am , nearthetrainstation, , around7kmnorthwest (PMT; SassonRd; h Pune Mu- institute offers offers bookings bookings

MAHARASHTRA

A ) 829 An An ) a The smug ) ) Clean and ) Styled on a a a ais ais 26133535; [email protected]; 26128585; [email protected]; 26128585; [email protected]; 6025555; bdresv.pune@tajhotels 26050505; www.lemeridien-pune % % 26122995; fax 26136644; 6 Sadhu 6 Sadhu fax 26136644; 26122995; ( ( % (

% ( If your visit to Pune is to attend If your visit to Pune is to attend ) %

(

a Osho Meditation Resort guesthouse Osho Meditation Resort guesthouse 2066019999; www.osho.com; Koregaon Park; s/d s/d Park; Koregaon 2066019999; www.osho.com; Le Meridien Hotel Srimaan o Hotel Ritz Hotel Ashirwad % The opportunity to eat, drink and make merry make The opportunity to eat, drink and The biggest the highlights Pune. is one of of well-priced, high-quality concentration of be found around the Lanes are in eateries Unless otherwise mentioned Park. Koregaon open noon to 3pm and 7pm the following are to 11pm daily. TOP END TOP END Blue Diamond Taj Rd; d from US$180; .com; 11 Koregaon with all the hotel elegant, top-class business stafftrimmings from courteous in saris to pleasantly rooms and a stylish se- decorated restaurants. lection of .com; RBM Rd; d from US$235; high ceilings, this is the most sumptuous hotel comfortable. compact and Rooms are in Pune. two Other assets restaurants, include three a nightclub, gym and a small rooftop bars, pool (open to nonguests for Rs 450 per day). Eating serves Mughlai Punjabi, and Chinese vege- tarian fare. 361/5A Bund Gdn Rd; s/d Rs 2300/2800; spark. It’s any real functional but lacking Indian businessmen popular with passing and is good value. ( Rs 2400/2900; ), then its p827 Resort ( Meditation the Osho stylish guesthouse, with minimalist rooms, in the unique opportunity to breathe offers air! Book specially cleaned deep lungfuls of to be at- have that you in advance and note to stay. at the resort courses tending ramshackle old building with unharnessed old building with unharnessed ramshackle and certainly It’s friendly one of potential. TVs All rooms have bets. Pune’s better and back next to the at the ones are the cheaper serves which garden restaurant, Gu- good jarati thalis. 16 Cannaught Rd; s/d from Rs 2200/2500; The class. the midrange nicely near the top of that is a worthy choice Akshaya restaurant Vaswani Path; d with/without AC Rs 2550/1950; AC Rs d with/without Path; Vaswani Mughal palace and full of marble pillars and marble pillars Mughal palace and full of management don’t exactly warm you to this management clean and it sits very place but the rooms are )

) a a •• Pune SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA Excluding Excluding 26124949; www.tghotels.com; 26124949; www.tghotels.com; 26124501; www.hotelsuryavilla 26125054; 14 Sasson Rd; d/tr Rs 450/ Located opposite the train opposite Located % % 26137964; [email protected]; (

( 26127659; [email protected]; 26127659; [email protected];

% 26360728; MG Rd; s with shared bath- s with shared 26360728; MG Rd;

( % (

% ( %

(

With lightrooms this could and airy ) a Every Indian town has one hotel that that hotel Indian town has one Every ) Hotel Sunderban Samrat Hotel Homeland National Hotel Hotel Surya Villa kling modern hotel is in a class of its own and is in a class of kling modern hotel superb value for money. It’s often represents full so book in advance. a and in Pune that others all the shines above This spar- honour falls to the Samrat Hotel. 17 Wilson Garden; s/d Rs 1190/1400, with AC Rs 1600/1800; scheduled) it’s likely to remain just as popular. just as popular. to remain it’s likely scheduled) pre-renovations. are The prices listed that at the time of research was about to close was research that at the time of (no date When it reopens for renovations. accept credit cards. accept credit MIDRANGE MIDRANGE and a noon checkout have listed All hotels The downstairs café seems café The downstairs to be cockroach- and is good value. free (or even twelvesomes) with the numerous with the numerous (or even twelvesomes) the bedrooms. infested that have cockroaches have been one of the better Koregaon Park Park Koregaon the better been one of have threesomes but sadlyhotels, you’ll be having .com; 294/1 Koregaon Park; s/d Rs 1000/1200, d with AC Rs s/d Rs 1000/1200, Park; .com; 294/1 Koregaon 1300; 18 Wilson Garden; s/d Rs 450/550, with AC Rs 750/850; basic, they are clean, and the cottages have have the cottages clean, and basic, they are little porches. in a pleasing garden. While the rooms are the rooms are in a pleasing garden. While 550, cottages from Rs 500) colonial run-down station is this charmingly and high set ceilings mansion with verandas its private rooms in family homes, the Grand rooms in family homes, its private beds in Pune, but it’s not a has the cheapest place you would chose a luxurious break. for side the patio bar is a good On the positive place for a beer. BUDGET BUDGET Grand Hotel room/d with private250/575) bathroom Rs where to look. where room in one of these from Rs 3000 to places of room in one know will drivers Rickshaw 10,000 per month. widely, so check out a few before deciding. deciding. before a few out so check widely, a stays negotiate you can For longer-term Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book 19 Koregaon Park; d with shared bathroom from Rs 800, with d with shared Park; 19 Koregaon private bathroom with/without AC from Rs 1300/1000; Next to the Osho Resort this was a popular, Next to the Osho property heritage neglected, but increasingly Dirty and run down but if everything else is for a night.full it will pass MAHARASHTRA popular placeforadecentmixture of Indian the mainroad,Prems isarelaxing andvery In aquiet,leafycourtyardtucked awayfrom delicious SouthIndiandishes. Puneinstitutiononaccountoftablished its delicious pastas, offersdelicious pastas, goodold-fashioned ashtran thalisyoucouldhopetofind. North Main Rd;mainsRs110-300, Main North pipes (Rs 125). restaurant, complete with bubblinghookah combination of ajazzbarandanIranian mains Rs100-180; equally enjoyable fondues.Almostnextdooristhecheese ( the bestrestaurants isthe organic foodistheorder of theday.Oneof restaurants inKoregaon Park, where healthy, atmosphere. ing decentFrench formal cuisine inaslightly Rd, mainsRs120-300) with theyoungandbeautifulof Pune. artwork, parttravel diary.It’svery popular Southeast Asian foodandamenuthatispart supertrendy littlerestaurant withexcellent food. and Continental bulging recipe bookof ‘British-style’ curries to PunefromtheUKbringingwiththema a British-Indiancouplewhohave returned versal of trends, thisclassy jointisrunby Rd;mainsRs120-250) Main dishes. Continental and but italsooffers seafood Indian,tandoori, insizzlers,this long-runningplacespecialises Moledina Rd;mainsRs120-200) Indians asWesterners. food.It’saspopularwith and Continental interior. all wrappedupinacomfycontemporary practicallyeveryone,has somethingtoplease Japanese popularFlags noodles),thehighly Mongolian cauliflowerto est menu,runningtheglobalgamutfrom mains Rs75-200) mains Rs70-120) Vaishali RESTAURANTS 830 % The ABC F The ABC Theme Arthur’s o ontheSeventh Third Place:TouchetheSizzler The Flags Restaurant Shabree Prems 26817413; mainsRs100-400) OTENMHRSTA • ue SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••Pune

( ( %

% (North Main Rd,Koregaon Park; Main mainsRs80-150) (North Malaka Spice Malaka 25672676; FCRd;mainsRs70) 26141617; G2 Metropole, Bund Garden Rd; BundGarden 26141617; G2Metropole, Someof thebest,cheap Mahar- WithpossiblyPune’slong- arms is h Thisisastylish place offer-

( % 10.30am-1.30pm) Shisha Café

(Hotel Parichay, 1199/1AFCRd; Insomethingof are- 26132710; Lane 6, North Main Main 26132710; Lane6,North ( a complexof midrange

% As thenamesuggests,

( % 26140715; Lane 7, North 26140715; Lane7,North , which, alongside Swiss CheeseGarden h yakisoba 26136293; Lane6,

(

% 11am-11pm) , which isa ( % Alonges- 26134632; 7 26818885; (fried A

decide whatkindof musictheyare into. style barisanoldfavourite butitsDJscan’t Sat, 11am-8pm Sun) general souvenirs. Rs 130) some locals. little cliqueyanditreally helpsifyouknow for thelatest. ThebarsceneinPunecanbea bars andclubs.Ask aroundKoregaon Park tivities andhasalarge arrayof ever-changing puts agreat dealof intonocturnalac- effort With itsmassive studentpopulation,Pune Drinking &Entertainment manner of cakes. attractionsruntoall biscuits, butthesweet St isfamousforitshomemadeShrewsbury with goodcoffee. which andcakes dishesup plainsandwiches A branch of theWestern-style coffee chain, forbeverageswater used ispurified. stop. Fruitandvegetables are and sterilised snacks andgreat cakes makes abrilliantlunch andhealthylong-running café,withlight scene, butalsoappreciated bylocals.This sory haltontheKoregaon Park backpacker Rs25-50; Rs 50-150,cakes around Rs40. pav bhaji inexpensive snackssuch aspizzaand serves shakes, thiscasualcaféwithoutdoorseating as producingdeliciousfresh fruitjuicesand Juice World CAFÉS Pune hassomegoodshopping options. Shopping pens tobealmostnextdoor. –whichMcDonalds onaSaturdaynight hap- andabout asmuchlights exoticaas Eastern surrounded bymodernshoppingmalls, bright &SatRs 200) 2417 EastSt;admissionFri est newlounge bar. It’s Farms. ABC tion. Has aniceopenterrace. It’s nexttothe theattentioncaught of the studentpopula- Gold AdLabs The family-runKayani Bakery onEast Barista Café Thousand Oaks Thousand Spirits High German Bakery German Bombay Store Lush the New state-of-the-art cinemacomplex Newstate-of-the-art place to be seen. It’sLush,Pune’ssleek- placetobeseen.

(Boat ClubRd)

(2436/B EastStCamp; (spiced vegetables andbread) for

(Koregaon Park)

(Sterling Centre, 12MGRd;mealsRs40-80) ( % Thisplace isthebestspot for

(322 MGRd; (

%

(North Main Rd,Koregaon Park; Main dishes (North It’scool.supertrendy. 26050101; Queen’s Garden Rd; adult 26050101; Queen’sGarden 26343194; [email protected]; h 6am-11.30pm) Brand newbarthat’s h h 10.30am-8.30pm Mon- Thiscosypub- lonelyplanet.com 8am-1am) Acompul- As well

MAHARASHTRA

, and ; its 831 , for is in the 25536970) Deccan Deccan taxi stand 131) 24441591) % (

% %

(

( Sinhagad Express Sinhagad

26114222; Connaught Rd) % booking hall (

are fast commuter trains to fast commuter are in front of Pune train station Pune train station in front of Swargate bus stand Shivaji Nagar bus stand Shivaji Deccan Queen, Deccan Bright Travels 26121090) The For Mumbai the train is the safest option. the safest For Mumbai the train is Plenty of private deluxe buses head to most deluxe private Plenty of % Pragati Express Pragati to four hours. Mumbai, taking three TRAIN TRAIN Pune is an important rail hub with connec- The swarm- the state. tions to many parts of ing computerised the station as you face building to the left of cross- before a deepthe entrance – take breath ing the threshold. you off (going to Mumbai, for instance, (going to Mumbai, you off some buses no further than Borivali). private get Try buses service depart from the station near the roundabout. TAXI taxis (four passengers) Long-distance shared link up Pune with Dadar in Mumbai round from the the clock. They leave ( hours). Rs 320, three (per seat AC Rs 260, servicesShare-taxi to Nasik and Aurangabad been discontinued. have Lonavla; Lonavla; including and northeast, north for points and Aurangabad, Ahmedabad Ahmednagar, Nasik; and buses from the train station shuttle bus stand (semi- everyto Dadar (Mumbai) 30 minutes four hours). Rs 117/240, deluxe/deluxe Goa (ordinary/ in including Panaji centres, – thoughsleeper high Rs 300/400, 12 hours season rise prices sometimes to Rs 600!), five Rs 200/250, Nasik (semideluxe/deluxe and Aurangabad (Rs 160, six hours). hours) the bus will drop know where you sure Make Sinhagad, Bengaluru and Mangalore. Deluxe Deluxe Sinhagad, Bengaluru and Mangalore. 230/933 13¼ 4.40pm 57/215 3¼ 7.15am 337/1366 22½ 6.05pm 417/1691 21¾ 9.40pm 325/1327 21½ 11.45am

(Sakar 10, Sasson Pune train station Chennai Exp Jhelum Exp Exp Hyderabad Queen Deccan Udyan Exp Fabindia (Bund Garden Rd, Koregaon

or (24/25 Sohrab Hall, 21 Sasson Rd; (24/25 Sohrab Hall,

26052147; 39 Dr B Ambedkar Rd) , for Mumbai and destina- . •• Pune SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA 26123268; 243 Century Arcade, Narangi 26123268; 243 Century Arcade, % 26059003; 131 Sohrab Hall, 26059003; 131 Sohrab Hall, ( Either Or 26128190; Hermes Kunj, 26128190; Hermes Kunj, % % ( 26126218) ( % fares are 2nd class/chair. To calculate 1st class and other fares see p1179 . p1179 see 1st class and other fares To calculate 2nd class/chair. are fares ( % 10am-7.45pm) (

This glass-fronted mall is full of Western Western mall is full of This glass-fronted Chennai Delhi Hyderabad Mumbai CST 6011 7031 1077 2124 Bengaluru 6529 Destination Train No & name (Rs) Fare Duration (hr) Departure 10.30am-8pm, closed Thu) 10.30am-8pm, closed h Express fares are 2nd class/chair for day trains, sleeper/2AC sleeper for overnight trains; sleeper for overnight for day trains, sleeper/2AC 2nd class/chair are fares Express Queen MAJOR TRAINS FROM PUNE TRAINS FROM PUNE MAJOR Pune is a good spot to buy modern Indian spot to buy modern Pune is a good

Celebrate Shopping Mall 21 Sasson Rd) Belgaum, Kolhapur, Mahabaleshwar and Belgaum, and Kolhapur, Mahabaleshwar Pune has three bus stands: Pune has three flies to Bengaluru and Delhi. BUS stand Bengaluru, and IndiGo Delhi and Hyderabad, Ahmedabad, Bengaluru, Chen- Coimbatore, and Nagpur. Jammu nai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Air Deccan links Pune up with Ahmedabad, hours). Of the budget airlines Spice Jet flies to airlines Spice Jet Of the budget hours). Delhi and Bengaluru, while Kingfisher flies to hours) and Kolkata US$336, 2½ hours). Air and Kolkata US$336, 2½ hours). hours) Sahara flies twice daily to Delhi (US$115, two two hours), and daily to Chennai (US$169, 2½ two hours), Bung Rd) and Mumbai minutes) Goa (US$60 45 hours), Airways flies twice Jet (US$102, 30 minutes). Ben-daily to Mumbai (US$81, 30 minutes), Delhi (US$186, galuru (US$146, 1½ hours), Indian Airlines flies daily to Delhi (US$153, Indian Airlines flies daily and to Bengalurutwo hours), (US$102, 2½ Indian Airlines Jet Airways Air Sahara Air India AIR AIR in Pune: Airline offices 4 Mangaldas Rd) Rd; & Away Getting There clothing; try clothing; try h high-street labels. high-street Park) lonelyplanet.com tions to the south and west, including Goa, MAHARASHTRA street with loudexuberance. Ifyouare after hordes of holidaymakers whofill themain tworeasons thatMahabaleshwarthese attracts temperaturesequally delightful andit’sfor changed onejotare viewsand thedelightful and summerballsare longgonewhathasn’t a properlybrewed cupof tea. Whilethetea gethad becomeandgoodgosh,youcan’t even theoldgirl howdown-at-heel if hecouldsee yard Kiplingwouldpositively turninhisgrave couple of dilapidated buildings.InfactRud- few tracesof timesremain, those save fora presidency duringthedaysof Today theRaj. ofbecame thesummercapital theBombay John ‘Boy’ Malcolm, after which itquickly of Mahabaleshwar wasfoundedin1828bySir upintheWestern Ghats,thehillstation High % MAHABALESHWAR by heavy monsoonrains. road outof actionthanksto damage inflicted andtheaccess research thefortwasclosed (Rs17,45minutes). AtthetimeofStadium the Architect College bus stopopposite Nehru leavinguntil evening, fromeitherSwargate or runs frequently toSinhagadvillage from7am stroll of thesummit.ThePunecitybus50 usually aroundtocartyouwithinashort Sinhagad village. workout onthehike upfromthebusstopin viewsandthechancesweeping forahealthy therealand touriststalls; attractionsare the hill cluttered with telecommunications towers ontopofout. Theruinedfortstands asteep Fort), 24kmsouthwestof Pune,isafunday ofthose Bijapurin1670,Sinhagad(Lion Scene of avictorybyShivaji’s forcesover Sinhagad AROUND PUNE 50 atnight. Park costsabout Rs30inthedaytimeand toKoregaonride fromthePunetrainstation terminal, andbus159toKoregaon Park. bus 4toSwargate, bus5toShivaji Nagarbus slower thanawetSunday.Useful include buses butjourneysarefrom Punetrainstation, is Rs150. autorickshaw there costsabout Rs50,ataxi The airportis8kmnortheastof thecity.An GettingAround 832 If you don’t want to walk, jeeps (Rs25)areIf youdon’twanttowalk,jeeps Autorickshaws canbefoundeverywhere. A City buses gatheratthePMTCity buses depotacross 02168 /pop12,736elev1372m OTENMHRSTA • rudPn SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••AroundPune variety oflocaltoursandallmannerbustickets. variety h cash andtravellerscheques. Sights &Activities Krsna Travels BankofIndia State office tourist MTDC Bank ofMaharashtra Mahabaleshwar hasnointernet facilities. Information arrival. ispayable on ern end.ARs15‘touristtax’ isatthewest- of Thebusstand holidaytack. Rd, alsocalledDrSabaneRd)–a200mstrip Most of theactionisinmainbazaar(Main Orientation abundantly green landscapes. pours. After thingscalmdown,thereward is stave offdamage fromthetorrential down- falls. Buildingsare cladwith 6mof whenanunbelievable rain September), during themonsoon(fromlate Junetomid- days (ApriltoJune),ChristmasandDiwali. peak periodsduringthesummerschool holi- (Rs 200per hour). rowboats (Rs160perhour) andpedalboats a Lingmala Falls habaleshwar include good.Attractivebeen waterfalls aroundMa- drop of 600m–atleasttheviewwouldhave have resulted inhimtumblingdownasheer should Arthurhave fallenoutof ever it,would being 9kmfromtown,is thinks so. Much quieter, thanks nodoubtto ning; butyouwon’tbetheonly one who footinMahabaleshwarto set in1824. dedicated toPeter Lodwick,thefirst European ington ofdistance town,aswell as Point),which iswithineasywalking Sunrise be savoured from sible. If you canignore thisthenfineviewscan allthetownsviewpointsasquicklypos- off totick windows aspeopleracebyinaneffort it’susuallybeingblasted outofthough car The hillsare alive withthesoundof music, helpful staff. southoftown,hascrudemapsbut At theMTDCResort just ahintof peaceandquiet thenavoid the boathouse The hill station virtuallyshuts upshopThe hillstation The sunset viewsat The sunset 9am-8pm) Reliable onwardtravelinformation,a 9am-8pm) Reliable , Kate’s

( (Temple Rd; (Temple and % . Ontheedge of Venna Lake, 261035; Subhash Chowk, Main Rd, 261035; SubhashChowk,Main ( (Masjid St)Hasa24-hourATM. (Masjid % Wilson’s Point Lodwick Points ( % 260318; BombayPointRd) Chinaman’s h Bombay Point 260290; Main Rd)Changes 260290; Main Arthur’s Seat Arthur’s 8am-8pm) lonelyplanet.com Elphinstone kulum (alsoknownas . Thelatter is , rents out Dhobi’s are stun- grassto , which, , and Bab- MAHARASHTRA 72 833 (50km)

To Satara Hwy Falls (1km) To Wilson's To Lingmala Point (50m)

Pune (120km) State Castle Morarji Panchgani (13km); D To Mapro Gardens (6km);

Dam

Point (500m) Venna River Venna To Babington 261778; Murray Perth Rd; d

Fields Satara Rd 5 Strawberry % 260678; 114 Main Rd; d low/high (

% (

Babington Point Rd During the low season the 72 Lake Venna To Kate's Point (2km) To Kate's Point 00 1 mile 2 km ὈὈὈ

One of the towns’ better budget budget the towns’ better One of Petit Rd Petit

State Hwy 7 9 Falls

10 View Rd Chinaman's

Christ Valley Church 11 Hotel Blue Star Hotel Mann Palace Hindu & 6 and back with a stop at Old Mahabaleshwar and back with a stop at Old Mahabaleshwar to the also available are along the way. Tours 13 Garden from Rs 500) well- refreshingly options, with great-value, rooms. cared-for season Rs 250/1000) but beds in town can be found here, cheapest lookout points south of town (Rs 280, 2½ town (Rs 280, 2½ lookout points south of and hours) (Rs 300, three Panchgani hours), hours). Pratapgad Fort (Rs 450, three Sleeping & Eating supply and demand all about prices are Hotel soar during peak – rates in Mahabaleshwar and holiday times; at other times the budget Most of can be good value. hotels midrange around the main bazaar places are the budget resort-style near the bus stand, but dozens of scattered full board) are (most offering lodges the monsoon the During around the village. Note places shut up shop. of vast majority and top-end es- the midrange that many of – men single travellers tablishments refuse in particular.

Parsi Cemeteries Murray Peth Rd SG Makharia 1 4

8

Masjid Rd

12 Ὀ Temple Rd Temple The ὇὇὇὇὇ ὇὇὇὇὇ Mosque Club 2 14 3 , which , which

Christian

Cemetery Old Mahabaleshwar Rd Mahabaleshwar Old Main Rd (Dr Sabane Rd) B back into back into •• Mahabaleshwar MAHARASHTRA SOUTHERN 6am-9pm) Arthur's Seat (9km) B2 D1 C2 C3 C3 C2 C2 B2 C2 B3 B2 C2 Panchganga MandirPanchganga Elphinstone Point (5km); 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Panchganga Mandir (2km); Panchganga Mandir 10 11 12 13 14 h (

Tiger Trail Tiger To Old Mahabaleshwar (1.5km); To Old Mahabaleshwar Mahabaleshwar Mandir (1.8km); Mahabaleshwar Mandir Tiger Trail (1km) Bombay Point (1km); To MTDC Resort (500m); MTDC Tourist Office (500m); , said to contain the springs of five , said five to contain the springs of AC To Dhobi's Falls (500m); Lodwick Point (1.5km); Pratapgad Fort (23km); Mahad (59km); Raigad Fort (86km) INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING TRANSPORT Bus Stand...... 11) Vasant Cycle Mart...... (see Country Corner...... Elises Dairy and Bakery...... Grapevine...... 8) Hotel Panorama Restaurant...... (see Hotel Blue Star...... Hotel Mann Palace...... New Hill Retreat...... Post Office...... State Bank of India...... Boathouse...... Bank of Maharashtra...... Krsna Travels...... Hotel Rajmahal...... C2 Hotel Panorama...... B3 Mahabaleshwar Mandir 7am-9pm) The village of Old Mahabaleshwar has has Old Mahabaleshwar of The village By far the most enjoyable way of seeingBy far the most enjoyable way of a MAHABALESHWAR 2 3 1 h tively, taxi drivers will fall over themselves to themselves will fall over taxi drivers tively, tour for Rs 300. you on their three-hour get This amounts to a ride out to Arthur’s Seat habaleshwar round (Rs 45, 4½ hours) takes takes round (Rs 45, 4½ hours) habaleshwar in nine viewpoints plus Old Mahabaleshwar; the bus stand at 2.30pm. Alterna- it leaves The MSRTC conducts sightseeing (high tours The MSRTC season rushed. The Ma- only) for the very the the Tours ( and Krishna River, including the sacred rivers, two ancient temples. The two ancient temples. town (maps are available from the MTDC from the MTDC available town (maps are tourist office). recommended two-hour walk is to stroll down recommended to Bombay Point and then follow the very named inappropriately probably won’t rub shoulders with anyone probably won’t rub shoulders One highly monkeys. but the odd troupe of couple of the viewpoints is to follow the forest viewpoints is to follow the forest the couple of tracks that run between them. This means you Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book has a naturally formed lingam. MAHARASHTRA cake ortheginger cake? question here iswhich isbetter –thecarrot Mahabaleshwar inordertoescapethe noise son fromRs450/650) main bazaar,thissmallhotel boastsdimbut this Mediterranean-flavoured restaurant. The worth comingtoMahabaleshwar justtoeatat here are undeniably tasty. healthy –theburgers, pizzasandothersnacks Rs 40-120) and Punjabi eats. thalisandotherSouthIndian for itssatisfying a buzzingvegetarian padfrequented bylocals 100) isoneof thebestintown. and itsvegetarian restaurant (mealsRs60to are friendly, a spinaroundthepool.Thestaff can take aplasticswan-shapedpaddle boatfor are pasttheir primebutwhocares whenyou low/high seasonfromRs1500/2800; staff. spotlessroomsandeager-to-pleaseotherwise Rs 500/1100) .co.in; Peth 187SchoolMohalla,Murray Rd;dlow/highseason from thetowncentre isRs40. It’s blissfully quietandexcellentvalue. Ataxi the towncentre, shouldfitthebillperfectly. Resort, acoupleof kilometres southwestof and bustleof thenearbycitiesthenMTDC completely ludicrous. pricesare season knowit!High you certainly 834 Country Corner Rajmahal Hotel Retreat New Hill Grapevine Elises Dairy&Bakery Panorama Hotel Resort MTDC and Panchgani. dens into somesamplesare offered at Free toursandthechancetotuck factory dips intofruitdrinks,sweets,fudgeand jam. bazaar.in Mahabaleshwar’s The industryalso direct, orgetthemfromthemanyvendors February. Youcanvisitthefarmsandbuy to June,withthebestcropscomingaround mulberries andgooseberries. finest strawberries,aswellraspberries, isripewithsomeofIndia’s Mahabaleshwar BERRY DELICIOUS 6.30pm Wed-Mon) OTENMHRSTA • rudMhblswr SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••AroundMahabaleshwar Fruits are fromlate harvested November

( Sowhatifthey’re greasy andun- % Ashort walkfromtheheartof the

02168-240112; (Masjid Rd;dishesRs60-160) (Masjid

( % (Imperial Stores; Main Rd;snacks&dishes Stores; Main (Imperial Assuming youhave cometo

(80 Main Rd;mealsRs30-60) (80 Main

( , between Mahabaleshwar , betweenMahabaleshwar % 260318; fax260300;dlow/highsea-

( % 260404; fax261234;28MGRd;r

(Main Rd;Rs25-60) (Main 261361; hillsretreat@yahoo h 10am-1pm &2pm- as Mapro Gar- Therooms It’salmost ) Thebig Thisis hour orRs50fortheday. Rs 70/105,3½hours) withlessfrequent buses hour orsoforPune(semideluxe/deluxeevery Pune (Rs190)willbidyouadieuatSwargate. furthest you’llget to isBorivali.Private buses Rs 350/550,6½hours) gointothecity– season toMumbai(low/high the luxurybuses where theyintend to dropyouoff. None of quote similarpricesandtimes,butinquire Surur where youmustchange bus).Theyall Rs550/750,12hours via to Goa(seat/sleeper todestinationswithinMaharashtra buses or leave at9am,1pmand2.45pm. hours), (Rs139) whilesemideluxeseven buses (Rs180, Station bus headstoMumbaiCentral hours). Outsideof themonsoon, onedeluxe making thelongruntoKolhapur(Rs110,five services Fort; Rs31,twohours), andseveral (Rs 10,30minutes) andMahad (forRaigad (Rs31,twohours),rolling toSatara Panchgani From the Getting There&Away left). cious, Deli- juice, icecream Berry andjams(see which youcanbuyfreshoras (inseason) of itsIndianorEuropeanwines. dishes.Washyourmealdownwithone nental issuperb asare theAsian andConti- service enemy with a set ofenemy with aset iron rived armedand Shivaji his disembowelled end astalemate. thetwo menar- However, belowthefortwallsinanattemptKhan, to agreed theBijapurigeneral, tomeet Afzal involving theMaratha leader. In1659Shivaji foroneofsetting themostenduringlegends 24km westof Mahabaleshwar andwasthe (admission free; Built in1656,theimpressive Pratapgad Fort AROUND MAHABALESHWAR ant CycleMart the viewpoints.Bikes canbehired from lanes withtheirblindcorners ifyourideto take careoption, though alongthenarrow minimum charge isRs30(forupto2km). or toPanchgani. Fortripsaround town, the totake you tothemainviewpoints the busstand There are heapsof andMaruti taxis vansnear Getting Around Private agents inthebazaarbookluxury Mahabaleshwar isfamousforitsberries, The light traffic makes cyclingasensible traffic The light bus stand h

(Main Rd; (Main 7am-7pm)

( % h dominates a high ridge dominates ahigh 260254) 8am-9pm) waghnakh state buses leave state buses lonelyplanet.com Pratapgad Fort forRs10per (tiger’s Vas-

MAHARASHTRA

, 835 6am-8pm) Mahalaxmi 2538060; ad- , with one Town Hall , a courtyard h

% ( museum (Shivaji Rd;

2660735; Udyamnagar) A 2660735; Udyamnagar) 2652935; Assembly Rd; Assembly Rd; 2652935; dedicated to Amba Bai, dedicated Motibag Thalim % % ( ( 9.15am-12.30pm & 2.15-6pm) 5am-10.30pm) h Bhavani Mandap (Station Rd) Has a 24-hour ATM just west of just west a 24-hour ATM (Station Rd) Has h (

10am-5.45pm Mon-Sat) On the way to the maharaja’s On the way to Mon-Sat) 10am-5.45pm The maharaja was a bit of an animal lover an animal lover was a bit of The maharaja Kolhapur is famed for the calibre of its its of Kolhapur is famed for the calibre In the grounds of the nearby Old Pal- In the grounds of Other Mant-designed buildings in Kol- Other Mant-designed palace, opposite the Collector’spalace, opposite Office. h ace the It also to the goddess Bhavani. is dedicated hunt- maharaja’s the of more contains a few ing souvenirs. and at the wrestlers Mandap, beside the entrance to the Bhavani which now houseswhich a dull museum. OLD TOWN to Kolhapur’s hours Don’t fail to devote a few atmospheric old town. Dominating this com- and colourful is the lively pact area Temple origins or the Mother Goddess. The temple’s what you of back to AD 10, but much date see is from the 18th Century. the It’s one of most important Amba Bai in India temples attracts an unceasing tide of and therefore and its humanity who flood across the temple welcome and it’s a courtyard. Non-Hindus are people-watching. fantastic place for a spot of houses an extraordinary mission Rs 24; memorabilia collections of the most bizarre of a visit worthy of in the country. The building, Charles in its own right, was designed by ‘Mad’ who fashioned the architect the British Mant, colonial architecture, Indo-Saracenic style of and is a cross between a Victorian train station mansion. and the Addams Family fluffyand he was particularly fond of wild ani- they’d beenmals after shot, stuffed and hung on his wall – the building is a giant horror- house zoo with the stuffed pangolin (a scaly the oddest being probably nocturnal anteater) animal anyone has ever hunting for. gone MTDC tourist office State India Bank of UTI Bank Hotel International. Sights MUSEUM SHAHU SHREE CHHATRAPATI old junk then If you think your house is full of The this place. a load of just wait till you get in 1881, ‘new’ palace, completed maharaja’s short autorickshaw ride of the train station near southwest exchange. Hutatma Park. Deals in foreign hapur include the attractive old hapur include the attractive . , a , a 8.30am-6.30pm) h

(Indian/foreigner Rs 5/ (Indian/foreigner Raigad Fort Matharaj Naag Panchami has stunning views. This has stunning views. This 02145-274831; •• Kolhapur SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA % (

(Kedar Complex, Station Rd; per hr Rs 20; 8am-5.30pm)

ropeway

h 8am-midnight) Internet access. 0231 / pop 485,183 / elev 550m

In August the Raigad is best reached from Mahad (Rs 13, Raigad from Mahad is best reached You can hike to the top – it’s a 2½-hour steep You can hike The fort is reached by a 500-step climb, climb, by a 500-step reached The fort is

h Information Information Internet Zone the Hotel Shalini Palace, is 5km southwest Palace, Shalini the Hotel the stations. of distance to the north. Rankala Lake, a popular spot for evening strolls and the location of is around 3km southwest of the bus and train is around 3km southwest of stations, while the ‘new’ palace is a similar Orientation Orientation Temple The old town around the Mahalaxmi snake-worshipping festival, is held here and is held here festival, snake-worshipping in Pune. because, with its proximity to Goa, a friendly because, with its proximity complex, population and an intriguing temple the best introductions to Kolhapur is one of India that you could hope of the splendours to find. of foreign visitors each month. This is a shame month. This is a shame each visitors foreign of Kolhapur was once the capital of an importantKolhapur was once the capital of today it’s just a forgotten but state, Maratha than a handful no more backwood receiving KOLHAPUR KOLHAPUR % 45 minutes) or you can take a taxi tour direct a taxi or you can take tour direct 45 minutes) (Rs 1100). from Mahabaleshwar The return ticket (Rs 130) includes a guide, ticket The return entry into a small museum and the opportunity past. the site’s to view a short film about much hard work then you can glide up the hillmuch via a haul up 1475 steps. Or if that sounds like too sounds like Or if that haul up 1475 steps. US$5; he was crowned capital, where was Shivaji’s he died and was cremated in 1648 and where in 1680. Over 80km northwest of Mahabaleshwar, all Over Mahabaleshwar, of 80km northwest alone on a hilltop, Raigad Fort Raigad Fort the 9.30am state bus (Rs 50 return, one hour). one bus (Rs 50 return, the 9.30am state returning. for an hour before site It waits at the A taxiPratapgad to costs Rs 450. and back able from outside the fort for a negotiable fee. fee. the fort for a negotiable able from outside you can take from Mahabaleshwar, here To get which affords brilliant views. Guides are avail- affordswhich are brilliant views. Guides claws). Khan’s tomb marks the site of this this of Khan’sclaws). site marks the tomb encounter. painful lonelyplanet.com MAHARASHTRA fering theneatest budget bedsintown.The such abeaconof calm.The roomsare large ness hotel should be commendedforcreating ai 517 A2ShivajiPark; s/dRs1050/1200,with ACRs1350/1500 a goodbet.Meals are Rs60to100. tended sothisone’s tothebedrooms,buteven It’s ashame haven’t thecleanlinesslevels ex- ofpolished asthose theHotel International. Maharashtra withbathroomsasimmaculately a A1 ShivajiPark; s/dfromRs600/700,withAC800/950; with itsneighbour. meanthatitcannotquite competedifficulties are cleanbutsquattoiletsandcommunication the next-doorHotel Touristisfull.Therooms Rs 450/550,withAC room facingawayfromallthecommotion. soaskfora only drawbackisalittleroadnoise Rs 600/650; .com; StationRd;s/d/trRs375/475/550,s/dwithACfrom west of thetrainstation. isthebusymainstreetately enough running Rd,whichbe foundalongStation appropri- Most of thebetter hotels andrestaurants can Sleeping &Eating sketches. of hismovies aswellhisfinepaintingsand h gallery Mandare (1913–2001),thiswell-maintained Dedicated toactorandartistChandrakant CHANDRAKANT MANDARE MUSEUM unheard of. ofthe hardsale someIndiantouristcitiesis are rammedwithgoldjewelleryshops where you’re ashopoholic, thentheoldtownstreets are announcedinlocalpapers. Finally,if short walksouthof MotibagThalim.Events earth arena inanaturalsunken a stadium and Decemberinthe of grimyIndiaatitsbest. aslice uncomfortable. Either wayit’scertainly sterone filled,sweaty,seminaked menalittle tion of beingsurroundedbydozens of testo- single womentravellers mayfindthesensa- pit. Touristsaren’t exactlyencouraged and you canwatch youngathletes train 836 Hotel Pearl Hotel International Hotel Swami Radha Hotel Professional matches are June heldbetween Hotel Tourist Hotel ) 10.30am-1pm &1.30-5.30pmTue-Sun) You’dbehardpushed tofindanyhotel in OTENMHRSTA • ohpr SOUTHERN MAHARASHTRA ••Kolhapur

( ) Themanageress of thisclassybusi- % a 2525256; Rajarampuri, 7thLane;admissionRs3; 2525256; Rajarampuri, ) Exceptionally friendlyhotel of- Exceptionally

(

% (

% Rs 650/750) 6684451; [email protected]; 2650421; [email protected]

(

% ( % Kasbagh Maidan Kasbagh 2536641; fax2536644;517 A useful standby if standby A useful 6682485; StationRd;s/d , houses stills , houses

in amuddy , ared- the bus stand, andalmostmovesthe busstand, it’ssobusy. This eatery isoneof clustered those around fanfare. to arrive atthereal price)withoutanygreat aconversionoutdated and sothey’lluse chart are theirmeters these use or even (though most drivers willgive youthecorrect price Rickshaws are abundantinKolhapurand Getting There&Around dishes ataroundRs140foramain. nental Indianand Conti- having Chinese, thetastiest are thebestplacestoeat,withHotel Pearl bhelpuri snacks such as The crowdscomeforitsthalis,Kolhapuri inamaharaja’sstay palace… romancetoit–ifyoureallya certain wantto areto stay, ridiculouslyoverpriced. Stillithas Thedirtyrooms,should youreallyself. want finest hotels. Instead it’sashell of itsformer of TLC, beturnedintooneof thecountry’s old British-influenced pilecould,withabit of hotels inIndia. thesaddest Thiswonderful dfromRs1800; Lake; Rankala basis with AirDeccan. Kolhapur andMumbaion adaily between 298/1208, 21hours). Youcanalsoflycheaply (sleeper/2AClong voyage toBengaluru Rs trains embarkdaily exceptWednesdayforthe (Rs 101/338,41½hours). Avarietyof express 2.26am of town. Three daily expresses, includingthe walk westof towardsthecentre thebusstand hours). non-AC overnights gotoPanaji (Rs160,5½ Rs300/550,ninehours) and(seat/sleeper withAC headtoMumbai services Overnight Chambers, justacrossfromthebusstand. the western sideof thesquare atMahalaxmi bus. Mostof theprivate busagents are on your bodywillbehappieronadeluxe private (Rs 100,fourhours). Forpopularlonger hauls, (Rs60,2½hours) andBijapur to Belgaum (Rs97,fourhours), aswell and Ratnagiri hours), Mahabaleshwar (Rs110,five hours) regularly toPune(semideluxe Rs200,5½ (sleeper/2AC Rs146/592, 10hours) viaPune professional attitude. have averyand well-equippedthestaff From the ShaliniPalace Hotel Other thanSurabhi,thehotel restaurants Surabhi The train station Sahyadri Express, Sahyadri ) andlassi.

(Hotel Sayhadri Bldg;snacks&mainsRs20-45) (Hotel Sayhadri Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com bus stand misal

( % ( (aspicysnacknotunlike

%

a ( 2654389) % 2650620) Withoutdoubtone ) zoomtoMumbai 2630401; fax2630407; is10minutes’ , services head , services

© Lonely Planet Publications www.lonelyplanet.com 837 MAHARASHTRA

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