INDEX

Numbers in italics refer to illustrations American Physical Education Review, and photographs. 214 American , 3, 4, 5 Abbott, Margaret, 87, 259n14 The American in Sport (Gerber), Aberdare, Lord, 58–59 143, 259n11 “About Bicycles” (Munroe), 120–21 Amherst Regional High lacrosse team, aesthetic , 255n13 102 See also reform dress Amusing the Millions (Kasson), 13 Agassiz, Louis, 229, 276n4 ankle , 59, 224 Algerian Women in Their Apartments Anthony, Susan B., 264n44 (Delacroix), 156 Antwerp Olympic Games (1920), 97, 98, All England Croquet Club, 44 99–100 All England Lawn Tennis Club, 45 Applebee, Constance, 208 See also Wimbledon Appleton, William, 44 Altman, B., 125 archery, 88, 259n17 “America at Play” (exhibition), xii—xiii Arctic overshoes, 233–34 American Athletic Union, 88–89, 95–96 The Arena (social reform publication), American character 107, 109, 113, 136 monetary focus, 11–12 Argo (Wellesley College boat), 178, 181 Puritanism, 12 armsceye, 255n23 American , 105 Athens Olympic Games (1896), 86 See also bloomer athletes’ ( bottom), 92, 93, 260n28 American culture, genteel reformers of, Atkinson’s Casket (magazine), 161, 162 13 Atlanta Olympics Games (1996), 84 American Life Saving Society, 95 Atlantic Monthly (magazine), 171–72 American Olympic Committee, 87, 88, Australia, 91–92 91 Aved, Jacques-André-Joseph, 155

279 INDEX baby dress, 151, 152, 268n8 Stockholm Olympic Games, 91–92, “back to nature” movements, 151–52 93, 94–95, 98 balloon , 269n5 , 68, 76–77 bandeaus, 59 bathing , 76 banyans, 269n21 bathing machine, 62, 63 bathing , 99, 256n8 acceptance of, 238, 241 See also bathing dress bathing dress and, 68, 96–97, 276n47 Baum, L. Frank, 263n17 Barker, Clara T., 188, 192 beach , 247 baseball, 25 Beecher, Catharine, 14, 162–65, 172, for, 194, 194 249–50n1 basketball, 196, 203, 205 Beecher, Henry Ward, 250n1 California, 206, 208 Beecher, Lyman, 249n1 uniform for, 58, 226 (See also gym Beecher family, 163, 249–50n1 suit) Berenson, Senda, 146, 196, 203, 208, 210 at women’s colleges, 58, 203, 205, 205 Berkeley gym suit, 213, 214 basques, 271n9 “Best Dressed” lists, xv “The Bathe at Newport” (Homer), 66, bicycle 66–67 cost of, 118, 263–64nn39–40 bathing, 61, 256n9 development of, 117–18 mixed bathing, 62, 66 road improvement and, 265n61 segregation of, 62, 63 guards, 122, 122 See also swimming women, freedom for, 9, 117 bathing corsets, 73–75, 74 bicycle, dropped-frame, 118, 122 bathing costume, 256n8 bicycle, safety, 118 See also bathing dress bicycle bloomer, 114, 127–29, 134–35, bathing dress, 62–82, 91–99, 256n8 136–37 American vs. British, 68–69, 69, 76 myth of wholesale acceptance, Antwerp Olympic Games, 97, 98, 99 104–5, 131–33 athletes’, 92, 93, 260n28 La Bicyclette (magazine), 130, 131–33 bare legs and, 68, 96–97, 276n47 “Bicycling and Bicycle Outfits” (The body hair, problem of, 79, 82 Delineator), 124 corsets, 73–75, 74 bicycling craze, 104, 114–17, 142–43 criticism of, 62, 65–68, 70, 72–74, bicycling dress, 119–37 76–77 advertisements for, 123, 124, 125, fabric innovations, 73, 76, 80–81 130–31 French style, 70, 71 corsets, 119–21, 120 men, 62, 78, 92, 93, 94, 260n28 cost of, 126–27, 128, 265n58, 265n60 modesty vs. practicality, 64, 82, 91 divided skirt, 113, 120, 123, 124, 125, 1850s, 63, 64–67, 66 128–30, 135 1860s, 67–68 dress reform movement and, 114 1870s, 69, 69–70, 71 England, 134 1880s, 70, 71 fabric suggestions for, 125–27 1890s, 70–77, 72 France, 131–33, 266n72 1920s, 79–80, 99 health waists, 119–20, 121 1930s, 80–81 knickerbockers, 113, 126

280 INDEX

men, 120 Brown, Everett, 96 petticoats, 135, 136 Bryn Mawr College, 55–56 rainy day skirt, 123, 128 Budding, Edwin Beard, 26 rational dress, 119, 124 Butterick, Ebenezer, 38 Redfern designs, 126 Butterick & Co. See E. Butterick & Co. women’s colleges and, 128–29 See also bicycle bloomer cage crinoline, 35–37, 41 Bill of Divorcement (1932), 278n9 Caledonian Games, 25 Blackwell, Alice Stone, 110–11 California, basketball in, 206, 208 Blackwell, Elizabeth, 15–17 calisthenics. See physical education Blade, Timothy, xiii—xiv Calisthenics Exercises (Lyon), 169 , 255n24 , 65 Bleak House (Dickens), 159 Capper, Boy, 245 Bleibtrey, Ethelda, 96–97, 97, 99 Carter, Alison, 268n10 bloomer, 106 Castilleja School (Palo Alto, California), crew outfit, 192 206 dress reform movement and, 105–8, catalogue shopping, 22–23 136 Central Park (New York), 13, 14 ridicule of, 141 Chanel, Coco, 79, 221, 242, 245, 260n23 skating dress, 39–41, 40 Charles, Princess of Denmark, 115 See also bicycle bloomer; divided Charles VIII, King of France, 45 skirt; freedom dress; pantaloons; Charlotte Augusta, Princess of Wales, Turkish ; zouave trousers 153–54 Bloomer, Amelia, 105, 106, 106, 107–8, Chastain, Brandi, 258n2 142, 167 Chevalier, Michael, 12 bloomers, 30 Chicago World’s Fair (1893), 111–12, Bloomingdale’s (department store), 29, 227, 262–63n17 253n18 Clapp, Cornelia, 200–201, 229–30, 231, body hair, 79, 82, 258n28 238 bolero , 273n8 de Clifford, Lady, 154 Bolton, Florence, 216–17 Cole, Rebecca J., 17 gym suit design, 217–18, 218 Collins, John, 267n2 The Book of Athletics and Out-of-Door commedia dell’arte, 150, 267n2 Sports (Bingham), 120–21 Connaught, Duchess of, 115 Book of the Olympics (Wallenchinski), Cooper, Charlotte, 87 259n11 Copley, John Singleton, 155 Boston, Massachusetts, 136 Coquelin, M., 115 Boston Daily Globe, 191 corsets Boston Herald, 59, 192, 208 back pain and, 264n46 Boston Medical and Surgical Journal, bathing corsets, 73–75, 74 161 for bicycling, 119–21, 120 Boucher, François, 35, 268n6, 268n10 the costume. See bloomer Bow, Clara, 246 costume exhibitions, xvi Brainerd, Adelia K., 119 costume history, xvi—xvii British East India Company, 154–55, “ pour Vélocipédistes” (H. 268n16 Fraenkel, Paris), 130–31

281 INDEX cotton, importance of, 268n8 outing costumes, 47, 47, 111 cotton gin, 268n8 reform dress, 111–12, 112, 114 de Coubertin, Pierre, 85–87, 102, sports , 49, 178, 179, 207 258–59n9 tennis dress, 49, 56 country clubs, 8–9 De Marly, Diana, 150 courting, 7–8, 28 Demorest, Mme., 38, 39, 67, 253n30 court tennis, 43, 45 Demorest’s Family Magazine, 119 See also tennis Denmark, 89, 90 cover-up skirt, 145–46 Dennistoun, Alexander, 8 Crawford, Joan, 246 Depew, Chauncey, 189, 271n15 Crescent Bicycles (bicycle Detroit Free Press, 212–13 manufacturer), 118 Die Deutsche Turnkunst (Jahn), 161 crew, 178, 181–82, 182, 191, 192, 195 Dickens, Charles, 158–59 crew outfit dieting, 159 gymnastic dress and, 184–85, 192–94 Dietrich, Marlene, 247 success of, 194–95 Ditson, Henry A., 243 Wellesley College, 178, 178, 180, 182, divided skirt, 108 182–86, 183, 185, 187, 188–89, bicycling dress, 113, 120, 123, 124, 190, 192–93, 193 125, 128–30, 135 crinoline, 35 gymnastic dress, 202–3, 205 Crinoline Era, 35–38 See also bloomer croquet, 25–30 Dod, Lottie, 48–50 courting and, 28 Dodds, Gideon S., 237, 239 croquet stroke, 27–28 domestic economist, 164–65 history of, 26 drawers, 153–54 spooning stroke, 29–30 dressmakers, 265n59 croquet dress, 27, 28–29 Dress-Reform (collection of five croquet , 29 lectures), 108 Crusades, 154 dress reform movement, 105–14, 227 Cukor, George, 278n9 bicycling as catalyst for, 111, 114 Cunnington, C. Willett, 153 bloomer and, 105–8, 136 Cunnington, Phillis, 46, 153 college girls, role of, 109–10, 128–29 Curry, David Park, 252n8 , deference to, 108–9 cycling. See bicycling gymnastic dress and, 110–11 “Cycling Habit” (Altman), 125 reform dress, 111–14, 112, 114 dropped-frame bicycle, 118, 122 Davenport, Joanna, 259n11 duck , 51 Delacroix, Eugène, 155–56 See also health The Delineator (magazine), 118, 177 Dufay, Pierre, 153 bathing corsets, 74, 75 Dunlop, John Boyd, 117, 263n37 bicycle advertisement, 122 Dunlop Tire Company, 263n37 bicycling dress, 120, 123, 124 Durack, Fanny, 91, 94, 98 costumes, 271n9 Durant, Henry Fowle, 181 gymnastic dress, 203, 204, 205, 207 Dutch East India Company, 154–55 knickerbockers, 111, 113 “Manual of Lawn Tennis”, 56, E. Butterick & Co., 111, 203, 207 255n26 See also The Delineator

282 INDEX

Edwards, Eleanor, 223 Florida State University track and field elevator, skirt, 36, 37, 41, 253n11 team, 101 Elizabeth I, Queen of England, 268n16 Flower, Hattie C., 129 Elliot, Orrin Leslie, 206 Four Grandchildren of Empress Maria Elysian Fields, 252n5 Theresa (Zoffany), 150 Emerson, Joseph, 168 Fowle, William Bentley, 161 Emery, Joy Spanabel, 253n30 France Emma (1996), 259n17 bicycling dress, 131–33, 266n72 England bicycling in, 130–31 bathing, 62 French Revolution, 152 bathing dress, 68–69, 69, 76 women’s equality, 86 bicycling dress, 134 Frank Leslie’s Ladies Gazette of East India Company, 154–55, 268n16 Fashion, 65 English Lawn Tennis Association, 57 freedom dress, 105, 106, 262n2 Eton jacket, 265n53 See also bloomer Eugénie, Empress of France, 35–36, 38 French Revolution, 152 Evangeline (Wellesley College boat), Fuld, Leonhard Felix, 214–16, 218, 220 181, 182 Ewing, Elizabeth, 57 Gainsborough, Thomas, 151, 155 exercise dress, 165–67, 166, 173–76, 174, , 112, 112 175 “The Game of Croquet” (1867), 27 See also gymnastic dress; gym suit the Garibaldi, 173, 174, 254n33 “Exercise for Women” (Miller), 203 Garibaldi, Giuseppe, 254n33 expansive sleeve, 269n5 Gatty, Mrs. Alfred, 228–29 Geneva Medical College, 15 fashion, xviii genteel reformers, 13 “back to nature” movements, Gerber, Ellen W., 143, 144–45, 259n11 151–52 Gibson, Charles Dana, 259n14 bloomer and, 135 Gilbert, William S., 255n13 dress reform movement’s deference Gillot, Claude, 267n2 to, 108–9 Gilman, Charlotte Perkins, 250n1 gym suit, impact of, 221–22 “Girls Rule” (Newsweek), 258n2 , 4 “Girls Who Started in First Women’s movies’ influence on, 245–47 Intercollegiate Tournament” sewing machine, impact of, 21–22 (Boston Herald), 59 tennis dress and, 53, 55, 55 Godey’s Lady’s Book (magazine), 29, fashion diffusion theory, 110, 153 159, 254n33, 257n15 field hockey, 52, 208 bathing dress criticism, 62, 67–68, uniform for, 226 70, 71 Finland, 90, 90 exercise dress, 166, 166, 175–76 “The First Skating-Lesson” (Peterson’s gymnastic dress, 203 Magazine), 34 physical education, advocacy of, Fischer, Gayle, 105, 262n2 160–61 Fisher, Harrison, 221 sewing machine, approval of, 21 flapper, 59, 221 skating, advocacy of, 30, 33 Float Day (Wellesley College), 182–83, on skating dress, 34–35, 35–36, 36, 188, 189, 192 38–40, 41

283 INDEX

on women medical practitioners, 16, as schoolgirl uniform, 234–35 17–18 shirt and , 224, 226, 276n46 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang, 151 Stanford bloomer-, 222 golf, 8–9, 117, 249n5 Stanford gym suit, 213, 213–14 golf clothing, 10 tennis-dress style, 247 Goodale, Lucy T., 169 underwear for, 214 Goodyear, Charles, 117, 254n8 , replacement by, 225–26 Gordon, Harry, 100 See also exercise dress; gymnastic Goucher College, 64 dress Grace and Glory (Triumph Books), 258n4 H. Fraenkel, Paris (clothing company), Gradoz, Mme., 133 130–31 Grant, Zilpah, 168 Hale, Sarah Josepha, 17–18, 39–40, 159, The Great Train Robbery (1903), 245 160–61 green areas, 13–14 Hales, John, 155 Gulick, Luther Harvey, 89 Hanaford, Phebe A., 115 gymnastic dress, 142, 145–46, 200, 203, Hanna, Delphine, 170 204, 205, 207 Harbeton, Viscountess, 108, 134 crew outfit and, 184–85, 192–94 Harper’s Bazar (magazine), 28, 81, 117, Danish Olympic team, 89, 90 119, 135, 253n13 divided skirt, 202–3, 205 bathing dress criticism, 72–74, 76–77 dress reform movement and, 110–11 bicycling craze and, 115–17, 118 Finnish Olympic team, 90, 90 on bicycling dress, 120, 121, 122, London Olympic Games, 89 125–26, 126–27, 134–35 Stockholm Olympic Games, 90, 90 on New Woman, 119, 264n44 women’s colleges, 145–46, 175, 194, Harper’s Weekly, 30, 40, 63, 66, 66–67 200–202, 201, 204 Harvard University, 243 See also exercise dress; gym suit haute couture, 4 “Gymnastics” (Atlantic Monthly), Haver, Phyllis, 277n7 171–72 Hayden, Sophia B., 263n17 gymnastic societies, 25, 161–62 headache , 59 gym suit, 196–98, 205–6, 209–26, 210, health reform movement, 17 211, 227, 242, 275n44 health waist, 119–20, 121 Berkeley gym suit, 213, 214 Henry VIII, King of England, 43 Bolton design, 217–18, 218 Hepburn, Katharine, 247, 278n9 cost of, 209, 274–75n27 Her Story in Sport (Howell), 259n11 criticism of, 214–17 higher education, xviii—xix fashion, impact on, 221–22 women, prejudice against, 267n11 Howard design, 222–23 See also women’s colleges; specific marine biology fieldwork dress, institutions of higher education impact on, 235, 238 high schools, physical education at, men, 220–21 275n36 middy blouses, 218, 219, 220 Hill, Lucille Eaton, 189, 191, 193 modesty and, 224–25 Hillyard, Blanche Bingley, 50 Moser design, 212, 212–13 History of American Physical romper-style tennis suit, 222–25, 225 Education (Welch and Lerch), romper suit, 222, 222 100

284 INDEX

History of Physical Education Kenealy, Arabella, 259n9 (Leonard), 90 Keystone (film company), 246 “History of the Physical Education Kidwell, Claudia, 67 Department” (Mount Holyoke knee-length skirt, 58, 58 College), 145–46 Knickerbocker Base Ball Club, 25, History of Twentieth-Century Fashion 252n5 (Ewing), 57 knickerbockers, 111, 113, 126, 247 home economics, 164–65, 269–70n14 Korany, Hanna, 115 Homer, Winslow, 19, 26, 28, 30, 66, Krems, Baltasar, 19 66–67 Kuhn, Walter, 101 horseback riding. See riding Howard, Mildred, 222–23 “Ladies’ Bathing ” (Godey’s Howe, Elias, 20 Lady’s Book), 70 Howell, Reet, 259n11 ladies’ croquets, 29, 230, 230–31 How To Begin” (Hale), 160–61 Ladies’ Home Journal, 78, 78 Hunt, Walter, 19–20 The Ladies’ World, 135–36 Lane, Freddie, 92 immigrants, sports involvement, 25 Langtry, Lily, 252n33 India, 268n16 Lastex, 81 Industrial Revolution, 19, 268n8 Laver, James, 61 Ingres, Jean-Auguste-Dominique, lawn mower, reel, 26, 45, 252n9 155–56 lawn tennis. See tennis International Olympics Committee, 90 “Lectures on the Laws of Life” Ipswich Academy, 168 (Blackwell), 16 Iris (Watteau), 150 Lee, Mabel, 198 It (1927), 246 Legenda (Wellesley College newspaper), 192 Jacqueline Kennedy exhibition, xvi Leigh, Mary, 100 Jahn, Friedrich Ludwig, 161 Lenglen, Suzanne, 51, 58–59, 245 Jantzen, Carl C., 244 Leonard, Fred Eugene, 90 Jantzen (sportswear company), 244, 246 Lerch, Harold, 100 Jaques, John, 26 “Letter from Paris” column (Godey’s jersey, 23, 46, 76, 252n33, 271n12 Lady’s Book), 33 jeu de paume (court tennis), 43, 45 Letters to the People on Health and Jirousek, Charlotte, 262n3 Happiness (Beecher), 165 John Wanamaker’s (department store), Lewis, Dio, 162, 169, 170–71, 172–74, 22 174, 198 Joullain, François, 267n2 high-cut sleeve seam, 270–71n35 Journal de Demoiselles, 133 The Lily (Bloomer), 105, 107 Journal of Physical Education, 203 Ling, Hjalmar, 162 Joyner, Florence Griffith, 101 Ling, Per, 162 Liotard, Jean-Étienne, 155 Kahanamoku, Duke, 92, 93, 94 Locke, John, 151 Kasson, John F., 13 London Daily Telegraph, 89, 92 Kauffmann, Angelica, 155 London Olympic Games (1908), 89 Kellerman, Annette, 78, 78–79, 92, 221, Lord Willoughby and His Family 257n28, 258n4 (Zoffany), 268n9

285 INDEX

Louganis, Greg, 101 marine biology fieldwork dress, 231, Louis, dauphin de France, 150–51, 232, 233, 235, 237 151–52 sportswear, 3–4, 88, 88, xix—xx Louis Agassiz’s Anderson School of “mercerized”, 257n30 Natural History, 229 Michaux Cycle Club, 115 Louis of Parma, Prince, 150 middle classes, 25 low-calf skirt, 111–12, 112 middy blouses, 238 luge, mixed doubles, 102 gym suit, 218, 219, 220 Lycra, 81 marine biology fieldwork dress, 235, Lyon, Mary, 168–69, 198, 199–200 236, 239 See also sailor blouses Macy’s (department store), 22, 251n31 Miller, Annie Jenness, 203 Managgio, Dionisio, 267n2 Miller, Elizabeth Smith, 107, 167 Mansfield, Alan D., 46, 50 Mills, Alan, 52 Manual of Gymnastics (Clapp), Minneapolis Star and Tribune, 52 200–201 Mirror of Fashion (Demorest), 38, “Manual of Lawn Tennis” (The 253n30 Delineator), 56, 255n26 Mitchell, S. Weir, 18 Marble, Alice, 59 mixed bathing, 62, 66 Margherita, Queen of Italy, 115 La Mode Illustrée (magazine), 175 Marie Antoinette, Queen of France, 151 Monarch Cycle Company, 122 Marine Biological Laboratory (Woods Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 155 Hole, Massachusetts), 228, 231, Montgomery Ward (mail order 236, 238, 239 retailer), 22, 23 collecting parties, 232, 237 Montreal Golf Club, 8 marine biology fieldwork dress, 228–29, Moore, Doris Langley, 151 230, 230–31, 231, 232, 233–34, moreen, 67, 256n12 235, 235, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, Morgan, Ann Haven, 240, 241 241 Moser, Eliza M., 202, 209, 212 men, 231, 232, 233, 235, 237 gym suit design, 212, 212–13 Marsh, Jordan, 23 Mount Holyoke College, 6, 177, 249n1 Martinson, Miss, 272n1 baseball uniform, 194, 194 Marylebone Cricket Club, 44 gymnastic dress, 145–46, 175, Mary Queen of Scots, 249n5 200–201, 201, 204 Masters, Claire, 276n46 influence of, 272–73n3 matelot, 151 physical education at, 168–69, 198 Maud, Princess or Wales, 115 women’s basketball team, 58 Mayflower (Wellesley College boat), 181 movie magazines, 246, 277n6 media, 18–19 movies, influence on fashion, 245–47 sports coverage, 243 movie star, cult of the, 246 medical practitioners, women, 15–18 Munroe, Kirk, 120–21 men Munsingwear (sportswear company), bathing dress, 62, 78, 92, 93, 94, 243, 277n2 260n28 Murphy, Sarah and Gerald Murphy, 80 bicycling dress, 120 muscular Christianity movement, 172 gym suit, 220–21 Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 266n72

286 INDEX

Nagano Olympic Games (1998), 102 Our Dancing Daughters (1928), 246 Naismith, James, 203 “Out Door Woman” column (Harper’s National Association of Base Ball Bazar), 122, 134–35 Players, 252n5 Outerbridge, Mary Ewing, 44 National Council of Women, 112–13 outing costumes, 47, 47, 111 The Nation (magazine), 30 Outing magazine, 45 New Gymnastics for Men, Women, and Outlook magazine, 8 Children (Lewis), 170, 173, 174 Newport, Rhode Island, 116–17, 125 paille maille (French peasant game), 26, Newsweek, 258n2 252n8 New Woman (social phenomenon), 119, palempores, 269n17 233, 264n44 Paltrow, Gwyneth, 259n17 New York Herald, 113 pantalettes, 37 New York Infirmary for Women and pantaloons, 152, 153–54 Children, 17 See also bloomer New York News, 21 Paret, J. Parmly, 77 New York Nines, 25 Paris Exposition (1900), 86–87 New York’s Best & Co., 123 Paris Olympic Games (1900), 86–88, New York Times, 95, 97, 99, 99–100, 259n11 261n39 Parker, Lizzie Southgate, 144, 146 New York Times Magazine, 258n2 pat ball, 46 New York Tribune, 44, 107 Patience (Gilbert and Sullivan), 255n Noble, Margaret Etta, 175 13 the Norfolk, 265n53 Patou, Jean, 51, 58, 242, 245 Normal Institute for Physical Pepys, Samuel, 155 Education, 171 The Perfect Woman (house, family, and Northwest Knitting Company beauty book), 75, 76 (sportswear company), 243 Peterson’s Magazine, 27, 34, 203 “Nouvelles d’Angleterre” (La bathing dress, 65–66, 69, 69, 71, 72 Bicyclette), 130 tennis clothing, 53, 55, 55 Petit Courrier des Dames (magazine), Oberlin College, 267n11 133 Octavius, Prince of England, 151 petticoats Odalisque with a Slave (Ingres), 156 bicycling dress, 135, 136 Olmsted, Frederick Law, 13–14, 250n6, skating dress, 37–38, 41 263n17 Phelps, Almira Hart Lincoln, 167–68 Olympic Games, modern, 84, 243, xx “Physical Culture at Smith” (Parker), men’s vs. women’s sportswear, 88, 88, 144 102–3 physical education women’s participation in, 84–92, advocacy for, 160–61, 165, 168–69 94–95, 101, 261n42 exercise leaders, 161–62, 170–71, See also specific Olympic Games 172–74 Onlex (bicycling dress manufacturer), gender separation, 146 123 gymnastic societies, 25, 161–62 “On the Wissahickon” (1867), 37 high schools, 275n36 Oriental craze, 154–56 women’s colleges, 143–46, 167–69, Ottoman Turks, 154 198, 201–2

287 INDEX

See also basketball; crew; exercise “Report of the Department of Physical dress; gymnastic dress; gym suit Culture in Smith College, From Physiology and Calisthenics for Schools 1886 to 1888” (Walker), 145 and Families (Beecher), 165 resort wear, 80 Pierce, Louise N., 128–29, 265nn60–61 Reynolds, Joshua, 155 plagiarism, 257n24 Ribeiro, Aileen, 155 plimsolls, 253n18 Ricci, James B., 252n9 pneumatic tire, 117–18, 263n37, 263n Richards, Ellen Swallow, 234, 235 39 riding, 118–19 Poiret, Paul, 221 riding habit, 10, 264n42 popular press, 18–19 Riggin, Aileen, 97, 98 sports coverage, 243 Roberts, Julia, 258n28 Portland Knitting Company (sportswear Rockford College, 198, 222 company), 244 romper-style tennis suit, 222–25, 225 Portland Rowing Club, 244 romper suit, 222, 222 “Pourquoi Elles Pédalent, Une Rose, Clare, 268n6 Conversation” (La Bicyclette), Rousseau, Jean-Jacques, 151 131–33 rowing. See crew Powell, Elizabeth M., 202 Royal Montreal Golf Club, 8 Preston, Ann, 15–16 rubber, vulcanization of, 29, 254n8 Prevost, Marie, 277n7 bicycle and, 117 Princeton University, 243 tennis and, 45 private dress. See gymnastic dress rubber , 233 private sphere, 6, 11 rubber galoshes, 233, 253n18 public parks, 13–14 “Rules for Skating” (Godey’s Lady’s public sphere, 6–7, 11 Book), 33 public sports dress, 5–6, 6–7, 114 Russell, Frances E., 110, 262n14 courting and, 7–8 Rutgers University, 243 See also specific sports dress Rutt, Richard, 260n28 Punch (magazine), 134 Ryan, Joan, 82 Puritanism, 12 Rye Beach Swimming Club, 95 rainy day skirt, 123, 128, 264–65n52 safety bicycle, 118 rational dress, 111, 227 sailor blouses, 205–6, 207 bicycling dress and, 119, 124 See also middy blouses See also reform dress Saint-Gaudens, Augustus, 263n17 rational dress movement. See dress “Sallow Faces and Deformed Figures” reform movement (The Perfect Woman), 75 Rational Dress Society, 108 Salt Lake City Olympic Games (2002), Redfern, John, 126 84, 102 Redfern, Miss., 272n1 sans-culottes, 152 reel lawn mower, 26, 45, 252n9 Sargent, Dudley, 257n28 reform dress, 111–14, 112, 114, 255n sateen, 257n30 13 Scagel, R. F., 228, 276n3 for tennis, 46–48, 47 Schnall, Ida, 95, 261n31 See also rational dress Scott, Rose, 91 Reidesdelle, Marie, 113, 127–28 Sears Roebuck (department store), 23

288 INDEX

Second Great Awakening, 163 soccer, 226 Sennett, Mack, 246 socks, ankle, 59, 224 sewing machine, 19–22 softs, 253n18 shirtwaist blouse, 232, 233 Somerset, Lady Henry, 115 shorts Soper, Grace Weld, 272n19 gym suit, 224, 226, 276n46 Soule, Aileen Riggin, 97, 98, 261n37 tennis dress, 59 Spalding, Alfred G., 244 short skirt Spalding (sportswear company), 49, skating dress, 32, 41, 135 275n28 tennis dress, 57–59, 219 spas, 62 Simons, Seward A., 96 Speedo, 81 Singer, Isaac Merritt, 20–21 Sphairistike, 44 skating, 26, 30–34, 42 “Sphairistike or Lawn Tennis” safety frame, 36 (Wingfield), 44 “Skating Carnival in Brooklyn” Spitz, Mark, 101 (Harper’s Weekly), 40 split skirt. See divided skirt “Skating Costumes” (1869), 32 sport blouses, 177–78, 178, 179 skating dress, 32, 32–41, 37 sports bloomer, 39–41, 40 clothing as obstacle to participation, crinoline, 34–38 100–101 , 38–39 immigrants involvement in, 25 pantalettes, 37 social class and, 24, 25 petticoats, 37–38, 41 sports craze, factors of change, 11–23 short skirt, 32, 41, 135 catalogue shopping, 22–23 stockings, 38 popular press, 18–19 “Skating for Ladies” (Godey’s Lady’s public parks, 13–14 Book), 30 sewing machine, 19–22 skeleton suit, 151, 268n6 urbanization, 12 ski jumping, 102 women medical practitioners, 15–18 skirt, knee-length, 58, 58 sports dress. See specific sports dress skirt, low-calf, 111–12, 112 Squire, Geoffrey, 158, 159–60 skirt, short St. Louis Olympic Games (1904), 88, skating dress, 32, 41, 135 88–89 tennis dress, 57–59, 219 St. Louis World’s Fair (1904), 88 skirt elevator, 36, 37, 41, 253n11 Stanford bloomer-jumper, 222 skirt guards, 122, 122 Stanford gym suit, 213, 213–14 Sklar, Katherine Kish, 164, 165 Stanford University, 206, 217–18 slave trade, 268n8 Stanton, Elizabeth Cady, 107, 167, slops, 150, 267n1 264n44 “Smart Bicycling ” (Harper’s Staten Island Cricket and Baseball Club, Bazar), 125–26 44 Smith College, 177, 266n8 State Normal and Industrial School, 214 basketball team, 205 Steele, Frances M., 262n14 physical education at, 144, 145, 146, Sterns Brothers, 47–48 198 Sterry, Mrs., 57 tennis dress, 53, 54, 56, 56–57 Stewart & Company (department store), sneaker, 29 99, 261n39

289 INDEX

Stockholm Olympic Games (1912), 90, short skirt, 57–59, 219 90–91 tennis blouse, 49, 49 bathing dress, 91–92, 93, 94–95, 98 tennis shirt, 207 stockings white color of, 52, 56 bathing dress, 68, 76–77 Wimbledon, 51–53 skating dress, 38 women’s colleges, 53, 54, 56, 56–57, Story of Tennis (Aberdare), 58–59 180 Stowe, Harriet Beecher, 249n1 Thieme, Otto, xii, xiv straights, 253n14 Thimonnier, Barthelemy, 19 Sullivan, Arthur, 255n13 Thorpe, Jim, 260n25 Sullivan, James E., 88–89, 95, 96, 97, Tinling, , 52 261n31 Title IX (Civil Rights Act amendment), sun bathing, 79–80 225 Sutton, Florence, 50–51 Torontonensis (University of Toronto Sutton, May, 50–51 yearbook), 198–99 Sutton, Violet, 50–51 A Treatise on Domestic Economy Swanson, Gloria, 277n7 (Beecher), 164–65, 250n1 swimming, 61 tricots, 245 crawl stroke, 100 trousers, 149–58 See also bathing boys and, 150–51 swimming competitions, women’s influences, 151–56 participation in, 91, 95–97 origins of, 149–50 swimming dress. See bathing dress women, adoption by, 4, 7, 238, 240, swimming pools, 64 241, 247, 277–78n8 Troy Seminary for Women, 167–68 T. Eaton Company, 23 true womanhood, cult of, 143–45, talma, 65 158–60 tanned skin, 79–80 The Turkish Bath (Ingres), 156 tennis, 43–45 Turkish trousers, 105, 106–7 Bryn Mawr College, 55–56 See also bloomer elitism of, 44–45 Turner (calisthenics system), 161, 162 origins, 43–44 Turnverein (gymnastic society), 25, reel lawn mower and, 45 161–62 tennis ball, 45 turtleneck pullover, 188, 220 See also Wimbledon Twain, Mark, 145 tennis clubs, 44 tennis dress, 46–59 Uncle Tom’s Cabin (Stowe), 249n1 cost of, 255n10 United States Lawn Tennis Association, duck shirt, 51 57 fashion and, 53, 55, 55 U.S. Olympic Committee, 87, 88, 91 footwear, 49 University of California, 206 headwear, 55, 55, 59 University of Michigan, 274n19 jersey, 23 University of Toronto, 198–99, 273n4, middy blouse, 219 273n6 Paris Olympic Games, 87–88 University of Wisconsin, 217 reform dress, 46–48, 47 upper classes, 24 shorts, 59 urbanization, 12

290 INDEX

Ustinov, Peter, 254n6 Winkelmann, Johann Joachim, 151 Winterhalter, F. X., 35 The Valpinçon Bather (Ingres), 156 “Woman as Athlete” (Kenealy), 259n9 Vanity Fair (Thackeray), 159 Woman’s Book of Sports (Paret), 77 Vassar College, 177 women gymnastic dress, 194, 202 as medical practitioners, 15–18 physical education at, 143–44, 198, struggle for equality, 84–86, 101–2 201–2 “Women Muscle In” (New York Times Vaux, Calvert, 14, 250n6 Magazine), 258n2 Victoria, Princess of Wales, 115 women’s clothing Victoria, Queen of England, 268n16 as expression, xvii Vitagraph Studio, 277n6 factors in modernization of, 243–47 Vogue (British), 3 factory-manufacture of, 22–23 obstacle to sports participation, Walker, Gertrude, 145 100–101 Wallenchinski, David, 259n11 sales of, xvii water cure, 61–62, 165 See also fashion; public sports dress; The Water-Cure Journal, 107 specific sports dress Watson, Maud, 48 Women’s College of North Carolina, Watteau, Antoine, 150 219 Waverley (bicycle manufacturer), 118 women’s colleges Webster, Wait, 29, 253n18 basketball, 58, 203, 205, 205 Welch, Paula, 100 bicycling dress, 128–29 Wellesley College, 177, 180, 181, 198, crew, 178, 181–82, 182, 191, 192, 195 271n3 gymnastic dress, 145–46, 175, 194, crew, 181–82, 191, 192, 195 200–202, 201, 204 crew outfits, 178, 178, 180, 182, Mount Holyoke College, influence 182–86, 183, 185, 187, 188–89, of, 272–73n3 190, 192–93, 193 personal growth, encouragement of, Float Day, 182–83, 188, 189, 192 146–47 “Specials”, 186, 187, 188, 271n11 physical education, 143–46, 167–69, Wellesley Courant, 188 198, 201–2 wellingtons, 233 tennis dress, 53, 54, 56, 56–57, 180 White, Anne, 52, 258n1, 275n43 See also higher education; specific Whitney, Casper, 259n11 women’s colleges Whittelsey, Miss, 56 The Women’s Dress for Success Book, Whittingstall, Mrs. Fearnley, 59 277–78n8 “Why and How Girls Should Swim” Women’s Medical College of (Kellerman), 78 Pennsylvania, 16 Willard, Frances, 115, 264n44 “The Women’s Movement into the Williams, Esther, 81 Olympic Games” (Davenport), Williams, Serena, 52 259n11 Williams, Venus, 52 women’s sphere, 163–65 Wimbledon, 46, 48, 50 Women’s Swimming Association of clothing scandals, 51–52 New York, 64, 96, 100 dress regulations, 52–53 Woolson, Abba Goold, 108–9, 250n19 Wingfield, Walter Clopton, 43–44 working classes, 25

291 INDEX

World’s Columbian Exposition (1893), YMCA, 172 111–12, 227, 262–63n17 The Young Girl’s Book of Healthful Worth, Charles Frederick, 35 Amusements and Exercises, 166, Wright, George, 243 265n15 Wright & Ditson (sporting goods YWCA, 64 company), 222, 223, 243–44, 275n28 Zoffany, Johann, 150, 268n9 Wylie, Wilhemina (Mina), 91, 94, 98 the zouave (bolero jacket), 273n8 zouave trousers, 273n8 Yale University, 243 See also bloomer Yates, Christina E., 116 “The Yellow Wallpaper” (Gilman), 250n1

292 PATRICIA CAMPBELL WARNER was born and educated in Toronto, Canada, receiving her B.A. in art and archaeology at the Uni- versity of Toronto. Her M.A. and Ph.D. in design and the his- tory of design were completed at the University of Minnesota almost thirty years later. She has been a historian of dress at the University of Massachusetts Amherst since 1988, currently as professor in the Theater Department. She has published widely in scholarly journals and books on various aspects of the history of dress, including jewelry, slave clothing, and the movies, but her major focus has been the subject of this book, women’s clothing for sports. Warner is a Fellow of The Costume Society of America.