Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Autumn 2016

Street Art Creative works of freedom Vintage Zagreb Golden oldies depicting a former era Festivals A must visit to escape those rainy days

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PHONE: +385 23 316 166 / MAIL: [email protected] / WEB: WWW.ZADAR.TRAVEL Contents

ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES

Foreword 4 Sightseeing 44 A word of welcome Snap, camera, action

Arrival & Getting Around 6 Shopping 52 We unravel the A to Z of travel Ready for a shopping spree

Zagreb Basics 10 Hotels 59 All the things you need to know about Zagreb The true meaning of “Do not disturb”

Culture & Events 11 Directory 61 Let’s fill up that social calendar of yours Services you just may need

Street Art 18 List of Small Features Murals, graffiti... Autumn Flavours 32 Merging of Gastronomy, Architecture & Art 50 Restaurants 26 City Centre Shopping 57 Lunch or dinner, you pick Vintage Zagreb 58 Local Flavour 32 Maps & Index Keep tradition with cuisine Street Register 63 Coffee & Cakes 38 Transport Map 63 What a pleasure City Centre Map 64-65 City Map 66 Nightlife 40 Bop ‘till you drop

Pin Up Girls, Vintage Zagreb Festival Archives

“Are you one who fancies fashion, music, film, dance and even the interiors of the 1920s, 30s, 40s, 50s or 60s? Than see page 58.

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 5 Foreword Autumn is well and truly upon us and so are the reddish and brownish leaves which cover city parks as kids rattle, kick and throw bundles and bundles of leaves in the air. Publisher And don’t forget, this time of year offers many reasons to Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732 head out before the major cold zips in. To enrich your calendar, do see the exhibitions, concerts, special events... Company Office & Accounts and a series of jazz concerts to make you jazzily jovial. In Višnja Arambašić this issue you can expect an interesting story about street Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 art with interviews by leading street art artists whose [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com works are changing vistas of rundown buildings and in Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o. some way communicate more than just a picture to pas- Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o., published 4 times per year sers-by. Also, for all lovers of the past, ‘Vintage’ is the key Editorial adjective in this edition with a tribute to Vintage Zagreb Editor Višnja Arambašić and the festival with the same name, not to mention the Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Festival of Silent Film that you can visit this Autumn. We Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola will also look at other places in Zagreb that exude a vin- Badovinac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac tage vibe and take you to a different time. So as you ven- Assistant Editor Blanka Valić ture out, discover some of the city’s hidden treasures and Community Manager Eli Gajinov

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife btw, feel free to send us any Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Design Bojan - Haron Markičević feedback on our IYP Guide Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated so that we can make it even Zagreb Cover © Višnja Aramabšić, “Tribe” a mural by Artez Autumn 2016 Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević better… Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov, Kristina Štimac

Copyright notice COVER Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps Street Art Creative works of copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub- STORY freedom Vintage Zagreb lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts Golden oldies depicting a former era for the purpose of review, without written permission from the romantic legends “Tribe” a mural by Artez, at Film Festivals publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket A must visit to escape Zagreb’s Student Centre. More those rainy days is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, about Zagreb’s street art and Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb In Your Pocket N°85 - complimentary copy the artists responisble on zagreb.inyourpocket.com is not responsible for any information which might change after page 18. publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

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6 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (MEĐUNARODNA ZRAČNA LUKA ZAGREB (MZLZ)) QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb- airport.hr.

The and train stations are not directly in close proximity to one another but are within a 10 minute easy walk or a 2-4 minute drive by car.

BY BUS The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/ hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left View from the Zagreb 360° - Zagreb eye observation deck, and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a Photo by Višnja Arambašić tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg BY PLANE bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town. 50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both is well connected with which are linked to all major domestic and international arrival and departure areas are cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - capital range from 26-77kn. 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Informa- tion Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. MAIN BUS STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, the post office have a baby changing room, but do note www.akz.hr. that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Air- port, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recom- mend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 Photo by Višnja Arambašić local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from. 8 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Around BY TRAIN Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very user- friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left00 cor- 100 ner. A currency exchange is located in the international ticket- ing area as is another ATM. The Information office (Tel.5 060 95 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as you exit5 the 75 tracks). Across from the Information window is a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as you the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/per day. Getting to 5Town: 25 Walk out the main entrance and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get to the main square, Trg bana Josipa 5 Jelačića, take tram N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 head- ing towards Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a 0 ride into town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less expen- sive than other means of transport. There are also seasonal dis- counts and organised day trips where guests can see quite a lot in little time. If you would like to tour around the surround- ing area by bike, prices depend on the distance and vary from 10-35kn. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you must have a mandatory veteri- nary booklet, small dogs are free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger dogs must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the standard price for tickets.

MAIN TRAIN STATION (GLAVNI KOLODVOR) QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT TRAMS & BUSES Getting around town is made all the much easier via the city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take00 you 100

TOURIST INFORMATION 5 95

5 75 TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Za- greb Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića5 11, 25 tel. (+385-) 0800 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, www. zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 5 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

0 ZAGREB COUNTY TOURIST BOARD QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 9 Arrival & Getting Around

from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link Zagreb, , and Zaprešić. The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are avail- able from the driver on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an em- barrassing and costly experience, with inspectors op- erating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www.zet.hr/default.aspx?id=290Qtel. (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, www.zet.hr.

THE SLJEME BUS LINE The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac Stop and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Stop, six times a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/ voznired/140.pdf.

BIKING Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? In what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very visible and clear to both bike riders and car driv- 20% off on first ride ers. If you would like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of the following www.zagrebbybike. ordered through app com, www.nextbike.hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those seeking a recreational ride, then , Bundek and are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged should know that the city

QR CODE

This QR code contains the website address, http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/za- greb for Zagreb In Your Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone’s browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save the image and print it out any way you want. www.ekotaxi.hr Photo by Marša Gajinov

10 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Around surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes your mobile to text message your registration number that range in various levels of degree as well as differ- (no gaps) to the number shown (including the inter- ent types of surface. For all other information and maps, national code if you’re using a foreign mobile (+385) visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and www.pedala. 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103 (zone 3). Your hr, www.mojbicikl.hr. payment is confirmed when you receive a return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you CAR RENTAL to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the to move your car. In case you don’t pay for your park- city’s large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) ing spot or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a or within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an ticket valid for 24 hours from the moment the beady- economy or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 eyed inspector spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour kn. In order to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to ticket costs 100, 60 or 20kn respectively according to have a credit card and be 18 years old (by law). If a prob- the zone, and can be paid in any post office. lem occurs on the road, first call your rent-a-car contact number, then the HAK roadside assistance service at (+385) 1987. TAXIS EKO TAXI QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456 04 PARKING 55, www.ekotaxi.hr. STREET PARKING/SMS PARKING There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by RADIO TAKSI ZAGREB signs on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/ a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is (+385-) 17 17, www.radio-taksi-zagreb.hr. 3kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the TAXI CAMMEO ticket machine box which is beside the parking sign Qtel. (+385-) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi- and make sure you display it on your dashboard, or use cammeo.hr.

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 11 Zagreb Basics CUSTOMS TOILETS There are no longer custom limits between member You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs states of the EU or tax return. For other non-member (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few, as one in the Cesarčeva states we recommend you to follow info at www.porez- Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and na-uprava.hr. wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through DISABLED TRAVELLERS the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape or ženski for women. and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted VISAS for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. There- you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, fore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addi- visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation tion, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a and make your arrival as accessible as possible. visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through . If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to ELECTRICITY enter Croatia. The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- cal appliances. WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb signifi- cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should WATER keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer- gency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city MONEY district, in case you were involved in an accident or were There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest on you. hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987. TIPPING Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about NATIONAL HOLIDAYS tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw January 1 New Year’s Day a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically January 6 Epiphany round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they March 27 Easter want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems March 28 Easter Monday like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it? May 1 International Workers’ Day May 26 Corpus Christi ROADS June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day June 25 Statehood Day When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt August 15 Feast of the Assumption and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- October 8 Independence Day hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in November 1 All Saints’ Day urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ December 25 Christmas ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. 12 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Romeo and Juliet, Photo by Marko Ercegović, HNK Archives

Culture & Events IT’S RAINING WITH CULTURAL EVENTS: EXHIBITIONS, CONCERTS, SPECIAL EVENTS, FILM FESTIVALS, JAZZ CONCERTS. Culture & Events

a distinguished classical guitarist and student of the Royal Academy in London who won first prize at the prestigious competition Francisco Tarrega. He is joined by the brilliant young pianist and flutist Ana Dadić.QC‑1, The Golden Hall of the Croatian Institute of History, Opatička 10.

OPERA 21.10, 24.10, 26.10 19:30 » GIOACHINO ROSSINI - THE BARBER OF SEVILLE Rossini’s most popular opera delivers amazing perfor- mances by Manuela Custer as the spirited Rosina.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 88, www.hnk.hr.

14.11 19:30 » FAUST AND OPERA GALA Charles Gounod’s ‘Faust’ is the opera which brings to- gether a star studded line up that includes the devoted Finnish conductor Ville Metvejeff together with the Opera Orchestra of the Croatian National Theatre in Rijeka. With rave reviews, commendations also go to mezzo-soprano Diana Haller and the great Finnish soprano Marjukka Tep- ponen amongst others.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, 200 - 260kn, www.lisinski.hr.

03.12 19:30 » MARINA REBEKA Rudolf Matz, Archives Undoubtedly one of the leading sopranos of our time, Latvian born Marina Rebeka is about the grace the Li- CLASSICAL CONCERTS sinski stage with her repertoire of class epochs from 07.10 - 15.10 » ZAGREB KOM 11 - THE 11TH Mozart to Verdi, and Rossini to Tchaikovsky. She is joined ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL CHAMBER MUSIC by the Croatian Radio and Television Symphonic Orches- FESTIVAL tra.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Fit for the occasion, the most beautiful halls of the Croatian Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, 200 - 260kn, www. Academy of Sciences and Arts will host six thematically lisinski.hr. conceived concerts featuring greats from Bach to Mozart and others. Come and hear exceptional interpretations performed by world musicians and ensembles that will BALLET & DANCE amplify music taken from authors to contempo- 11.10 19:30, 14.10 19:30, 19.10 19:30, 22.10 18:00 rary authors.Q The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters » SERGEJ SERGEJEVIČ PROKOFJEV - PATRICE HAZU, Trg N. Š. Zrinjskog 11; National Hall Revival State- BART: ROMEO AND JULIET room, Opatička 18; The , Medvedgradska Romeo and Juliet is a ballet by Sergej Sergejevič Prokofjev, 2, www.zagreb-festival.org. which is based on William Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet and tells the tragic tale of lovers from Verona. 22.10 19:30 » THE TOKYO SYMPHONIC Prokofjev’s musical interpretation of the play has inspired ORCHESTRA many generations of choreographers and directors. In One of Japan’s finest orchestras is set to shine at the Li- this presentation of one of the world’s most famous love sinski Hall as its members will be joined by the famous stories, the choreography will be directed by Patrice Bart. German violinist Isabelle Faust and English Conductor QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, Jonathan Nott. The trifecta of artists will perform works tel. (+385-1) 488 84 88, www.hnk.hr. from Beethoven and Shostakovich.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisin- ski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, 160 - 240kn. ROCK & POP CONCERTS 14.10 20:00 » THE BAMBI MOLESTERS 26.10 » SRĐAN BULAT AND ANA DADIĆ - GOLD- Few Croatian rock bands could truly be said to be mas- EN ZAGREB: “SPECIAL GLOW CONCERTS” - AN ters of their genre. More often than not, local acts end up EXCLUSIVE CYCLE OF CONCERTS sounding like Croatian versions of something done bet- Two young guns hit the spotlight as they fuse their talents ter elsewhere. The one exception to this rule is surf-punk to create a magical night of acoustic music. Srđan Bulat is band The Bambi Molesters, an act so steeped in offbeat 14 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events

Americana that they frequently do a better job of setting promoted jazz, rock, folk, electronic music and more. it to music than the Americans themselves. The Molest- Organisers have in recent years established side festivals ers were certainly Croatia’s most internationally exposed such as Šibenik’s Terraneo and Super Uho in the coastal band in the early 2000s, supporting REM on European town of Primošten. American indie rock band Explosions tour dates and gaining international distribution for their In The Sky kick off the festival and American experimental .QB‑4, Kset, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97 58, 50 - rock band Swans conclude it along with Swedish pianist 70kn, www.kset.org. and singer Anna von Hausswolff.QH‑3, – The House for People and Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. 15.10 » TULUM! , BRKOVI, ŠANK?! (+385-1) 630 21 15. It’s hard’n’heavy, and the third edition of the ‘Tulum’ se- ries of gigs brings together some of the top punk-rock 29.10 20:00 » VATRA acts Croatia has to offer on the opening night. Local Vatra, which means fire, is a Croatian rock band best legends ‘Hladno Pivo’ headline with their smashing array known for their hit song, Tremolo, that won them the of hits as they are supported by punk folk quintet Brkovi Porin, a Croatian music award, in 2012. Don’t miss out on and the quartet Šank?!. It’s time for moshing seeing this burning hot group.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski mania!QH‑3, , Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11, tel. Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 (+385-1) 365 03 33, 70 - 90kn. 11, 120 - 180kn, www.lisinski.hr.

21.10, 22.10 20:00 » S.A.R.S. 04.11 » GENERAL WOO Founded in 2006, this popular Belgrade group has already One of Croatia’s well known rap artists is Srđan Ćuk, nick- gained an army of followers with their mixture of differ- named General Woo. He hails from the city of ent musical genres such as reggae, ska, hip hop, and tradi- and has been in the music scene since 1999. Ćuk is so tional Serbian music.QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira passionate about rap and hip-hop that he hosts his own Ćosića 11, tel. (+385-1) 365 03 33, 90 - 120kn. radio show and organises festivals. With his die hard and devoted fans, General Woo will ignite the stage at 22.10, 26.10 » THE 17TH ŽEDNO UHO FESTIVAL Tvornica Kulture this November.QE‑3, Culture Factory, A stalwart of the city scene is ‘Žedno Uho Festival’ which Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89, 30 - 50kn, www. has always given fans a taste of unbiased music as it has tvornicakulture.com. Ruta Cres, Photo by Igor Njhausler facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 15 Culture & Events 09.11 » JUSTIN BIEBER Definitely one of the biggest events of the year, Justin Bieber heads to in what will be a night to remember for all of his devoted’ belieber’ fans. Having per- formed at sold out shows all over the world, his European tour begins in Iceland. Get ready for ‘Where are U now’, ‘Sorry’, ‘Baby’ and his multitudes of hits played live with an entire entourage of dancers and stage performers join- ing him.QH‑5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8, tel. (+385-1) 642 09 00.

10.11 » PLACEBO Two decades have flown by quickly for Placebo and these English musicians are getting into full swing for their new Detour tour. With seven studio albums behind them, vocalist Brian Molko has confessed that the band will play a lot of 19.11 21:00 » DETOUR their classics, some of which they haven’t touched in years, This critically acclaimed six-member musical group from and something that will hearten all fans of the band, new Zagreb is famous for their very distinctive electro-acoustic and old.QA‑4, Dražen Petrović Concert Hall, Savska 30, pop sound that has, throughout the years, earned them tel. (+385-1) 484 33 33, 199 - 269kn. numerous nominations for the prestigious Croatian Porin Music Awards.QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel. 14.11 21:00 » MERCHANDISE (+385-1) 457 83 89, 50 - 90kn, www.tvornicakulture. This US post-punk outfit cannot be truly categorised as com. their music also includes jazz, dub and hardcore elements. Their LP ‘After the End’ received excellent reviews in 2014 26.11 » SKYE & ROSS FROM MORCHEEBA as has their recent release ‘A Corpse Wired for Sound’ Call it a Morcheeba side-project; band members Skye Ed- which is the reason for their soon to begin European tour. wards and Ross Godfrey have teamed up to further extend QI‑3, Močvara Club, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1) their musical talents. These Brits return to their roots a little 615 96 67, 55 - 80kn, www.mochvara.hr. while exploring other genres but fear not, Morcheeba’s finest hits will still form the bulk of their set list. This will be 17.11 21:00 » RUSSIAN CIRCLES their 2nd gig in Croatia this year, and their first in Zagreb. Named after a drill exercise in ice-hockey, this American QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 three-piece instrumental band from Chicago echo the 89, 130 - 150kn, www.tvornicakulture.com. post-rock genre having played with the likes of Tool, Boris, and etc. In their return to Zagreb, the gents will be sup- 09.12 21:30 » NATALI DIZDAR ported by recognised composer and cellist Alison Chesley, One of Croatia’s finest pop singers, Dizdar is known for her better known as Helen Money.QI‑4, Vintage Industrial vocal talents having released several chart topping hits in Bar, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15, 65 - 100kn. the space of a decade. With pop-jazz as her forte, Dizdar is about to embark on a new journey with her very own solo concert. Accompanied by top musicians and long-time collaborators, she will present her new single and most famous songs.QE‑3, Culture Factory, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89, 70kn.

EXHIBITIONS 21.04 - 31.12 » SEARCHING FOR SHAKESPEARE IN MIMARA In the global project Shakespeare Lives–as organised by the British Council, the exhibition concept is made of a variety of items from the permanent exhibition of the mu- seum which through a multimedia Smart Guide in Croa- tian and English, uses smart phones and Samsung tablets to encourage visitors to search and detect Shakespeare in the . It’s a bit like Pokémon Go, Shake- speare style!QB‑3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Merchandise, Photo by Drew Reynolds Closed Mon. 16 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events

01.06 - 23.10 » MOLECULES THAT itors to the Art Pavilion will have the unique opportunity in CHANGED THE WORLD seeing around twenty drawings, as many lithographs and An inspirational insight into the chemistry of all known sculptures borrowed from the French Foundation ‘Mae- molecules, molecules that are changing our lives, culture ght’. His acclaimed works, ‘Thin People’, ‘Women in Ven- and society today! The centrepiece of the exhibition con- ice’ and ‘The Man Who Walks’ will all be on show.QC‑3, sists of a 3D projection of 25 molecules that have affected Art Pavilion, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 the development of chemistry and science in general. 70, www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri Scientific, terrific!QA‑4, Technical Museum Nikola Tesla, 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnicki- muzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. 22.09 - 20.10 » MUNIR VEJZOVIĆ - EMBRACE OF Closed Mon. EROTICISM AND PLASTIC This monographic exhibition by painter Munir Vejzović ex- 07.09 - 26.10 » BACHRACH & KRIŠTOFIĆ - DESIGN poses eighty of his paintings and sculptures created over & PHOTOGRAPHY the last ten years. This extremely respectable cycle of new Celebrating a thirty-five year working relationship be- paintings includes large oil paintings in which the artist tween a photographer and a designer; this tandem has explores the erotic sense of physicality in the contempo- worked in fields such as royalty, the record industry, and rary postmodern multitude of their appearances.QC‑3, the history of design, pop culture and popular art. See Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 photos and cover art for recordings produced by Jugoton 10 40, www.moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, and , as well as posters, books, catalogues, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. fanzines, and the visual identity for various cultural proj- ects, exhibitions, art and theatre performances.QB‑3, Arts 26.09 - 11.12 » THE TREASURE OF THE and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 See the most precious artefacts from the National Archaeo- - 14:00. Closed Mon. logical Museum in Warsaw used in the early Middle Ages. The exhibition will display rings, necklaces, pendants, ear- 08.09 - 21.10 » KRISTINA LEKO - rings, hair ornaments, bracelets, glass ornaments, belt buck- HOW THE PEOPLE LIVE? les and crosses. A special place is intended for jewellery from An interdisciplinary art project based on the book ‘How the beautiful hoard - mid 11th century and found in Borucin, the people live?’ by Rudolf Bičanić, 1936. The author of the central Poland.QC‑2, Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, exhibit, Kristina Leko, brings to life the book and its charac- Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) 487 30 00, ters, eight ordinary Croatian families living in passive and www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun fairly poor localities. The museum is transferred to a real 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. life village portraying each person, the floor plan of each household, the building of one home in its entirety, origi- 27.09 - 23.10 » THE BEAUTY OF A FAKE SHINE nal documentation and an emphasis on the economic In what is deemed as criminal, we now have an exhibition and social dependence of the times, and its psychological of art; counterfeit art! The Police Museum has opened its effect. A travel back to a time long gone…QJ‑4, Contem- doors and presents fifty-three paintings and four sculp- porary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) tures by some of our most astute artists including Dušan 605Papaya 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 Džamonja, Edo Murtić, Ljubo Ivančić and others. - 20:00. Closed Mon. See oil paintings and prints analysed by art historians, art- ists, and academic critics, works that have been tested in 19.09 - 18.12 » RUDOLF MATZ - forensic labs for true authenticity.QI‑3, The Headquarters GREAT OPUS OF JOY of the Ministry of the Interior, Savska cesta 39, www. On the occasion of the 115th anniversary of his birth, we policija.hr. pay tribute to Rudolf Matz and his wife Margita, a legend- ary music couple whose apartment at Mesnička Street 15 became a meeting place for people in music and cultural circles. The exhibition, conceived as a monograph pres- ents his versatile artistic personality and love for music. QC‑1, Zagreb City Museum, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.

20.09 - 08.01 » ALBERTO GIACOMETTI: SCULP- TURE, DRAWINGS, LITHOGRAPHS - PORTRETS OF THE PRESENT In the series ‘The greatest sculptors of the 20th century’, the next virtuoso on the agenda is Alberto Giacometti. Vis- Battleme facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 17 Culture & Events

16.10 » STEREOTIP The popular music project Stereotip returns for the fifth time and will be held on a Sunday afternoon, starting at 16:00 o’clock. The Zagreb-Berlin duo of famous producers and DJs -Felvera and Dixon organ- ise the event and turn various city venues into dance floors. Electronic tears are bound to be coming your way.QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10.

11.11 20:00 » BRIT FLOYD Progressive rock tribute masters to the British icons continue their world tour as they per- Stereotip Archives form the very best songs that Pink Floyd has to of- fer. Enter a journey through 50 years of music history including hits from albums like ‘The Dark Side of the 17.10 - 31.12 » MEŠTART - TANJA RAVLIĆ, ARRIVAL Moon’, ‘Wish You Were Here’, ‘Animals’, ‘The Wall’ and In this exhibition Tanja Ravlić thematises the arrival at more.QI‑4, Boćarski dom Zrinjevac, Prisavlje 2, 75 the wellspring, as well as her attitude to the spaces that - 690kn. formed her. With her works, Tanja Ravlić, only in places, but entirely consistently, overlaps with given themes of 18.11 20:00 » QUEEN SHOW - THE SHOW MUST Meštrović. It is with the very free connections that she GO ON - THE BOHEMIANS emphasises the essentiality of the cyclical renewal of a In the year and month in which we celebrate twenty- phase of life and creativity. Meštrović, more than most five years since the death of Freddie Mercury, tribute artists or individuals, accepted the challenges and risks of act ‘Queen Show’ will put on a bombastic audio- the tumultuous periods in history and his personal life, visual performance playing many of their chart top- setting an indelible stamp on them with his inexhaust- ping masterpieces. The Polish Symphony Orchestra ible artistry.QB‑1, Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović will also join them on stage adding a classical ele- Museums, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www. ment to the show. Who will rock you? Queen will rock mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - you!QI‑4, Boćarski dom Zrinjevac, Prisavlje 2, 100 14:00. Closed Mon. - 160kn.

09.11 - 23.11 » ZAGREB SALON - EXHIBITION OF 19.11 » EUROPEAN THEATRE NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHOTOCLUB ZAGREB One evening in the year dedicated to the dramatic and Photo Club Zagreb primarily organises the Zagreb Salon, performing arts, European Theatre Night is celebrated an international exhibition of photography that began in most major Croatian Theatres. It’s night when the- tradition in 1910. The exhibition is convened every two atres come alive with the buzz of meetings, conversa- years with 300 - 400 mostly amateur photographers from tion and new ideas both among theatre professionals different countries around the world participating. Now and the audience. Exchange programmes are held, it’s time to see over hundred photographs mostly by win- familiarising the Croatian public with the treats that ning authors.QB‑3, The Mimara Museum, Trg Franklina European theatre hold and promoting the Croatian Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr. dramatic arts abroad.Qwww.noc-kazalista.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. 26.11 - 08.01 » ADVENT IN ZAGREB The beginning of Advent sees a transformation of the town with Christmas lights glowing, Christmas stands SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS encompassing authentic souvenirs, mauled wine, EVENTS sausages and traditional fritule (hot like doughnut 13.10 - 16.10 » THE 6TH GANZ NEW FESTIVAL - balls seasoned with icing sugar and other toppings). THE RAGING FESTIVAL Qwww.adventzagreb.hr/en/. This year’s topic is ‘rage’, and what we can do to either en- rage rage, or tame it. In what is an extraordinary festival; 02.12 » THE 12TH POSITIVE CONCERT national and international performers, musicians and art- The name says it all; purely positive is the msg here ists offer free theatre and dance performances, plays, art with strong regional performers (Bajaga & Instruktori, installations, workshops and uncompromising DJ dance Josipa Lisac, Rundek Cargo Trio & Luce). The event nights. See how to flush out negative emotions, or attend traditionally commemorates World AIDS Day and hap- a screaming metal yoga workshop... And that’s just the pens to be one of the regarded events at this time of beginning!QB‑4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, tel. year.QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11, (+385-1) 459 35 55, ganznovi.sczg.hr. 70 - 90kn. 18 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events FILM 01.01 - 31.12 » SUBTITLED TUESDAY Every Tuesday, screenings at Cinema Europa’s main hall have English and Croatian subtitles side by side. This is a chance for our growing international audience in the unique setting of Zagreb’s 90-year-old cinema on Varšavska 3, to see our non-English-speaking regu- lar releases on the big screen.QB‑2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45, www.kinoeuropa. hr. Every Tuesday.

11.10 - 17.10 » 23RD WEEK OF CZECH FILM You can’t ignore tradition with the 23rd edition of Atrium of Arts and Crafts Museum, Stereotip Archives Czech Film opening at the Europa Cinema as it is well known that the love between the home audience and Cinematography is a growing affair. This year screen- ings include six highly selected achievements of recent Czech cinema, including the Czech candidate for the Oscars, ‘Home Care’ by Slávek Horák.QB‑2, Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 482 90 45, www. kinoeuropa.hr.

12.11 - 20.11 » THE 14TH FESTIVAL Film fans fire up as for the fourteenth consecutive year, ZFF brings the freshest and most interesting debutant amateur to the screen. Carefully se- lected films from the most diverse achievements of European and world cinema appear; don’t forget Josipa Lisac, The Positive Concert Archives that there will be plenty of side programs for addi- tional fun.Q Europa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac Cinema, Tuškanac 1; Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17 and other locations, www. zagrebfilmfestival.com.

JAZZ & BLUES 20.10 - 22.10 » JAZZ.HR/AUTUMN A mega line up over 3 days which includes none other than Justin Kauflin and his trio, the jazz piano gem was voted ‘Jazz Artist of the Year’ in VEER Magazine and now works along the legendary Quincy Jones. Vesna Pisarović is a Croatian pop and jazz singer with a forte for jazz jive, and finally the Pawel Kaczmarc- zyk Audiofeeling Trio perform considering that their ‘Complexity in Simplicity’ was voted as album of the year by many Jazz forum readers.QB‑3, Blagoje Bachrach and Krištofić - Mario Krištofić, Gojko Tomljanović, Bersa Concert Hall, Academy of Music, University of Massimo, Photo by Vedran Benović Zagreb, Trg maršala Tita 12, www.jazz.hr. 24.11 » ŠIMUN MATIŠIĆ & MATIJA DEDIĆ - 08.11 » TAMARA OBROVAC TRANSHISTRIA GOLDEN ZAGREB: “SPECIAL GLOW CONCERTS” ENSEMBLE - AN EXCLUSIVE CYCLE OF CONCERTS Watching Tamara and her band perform is an experience Talented young vibraphonist Šimun Matišić is follow- in itself as one is transported into a whirlwind of improvi- ing in the footsteps of the legendary Boško Petrović and sation and spontaneity. This international ensemble plays performs in a duo with the one and only Matija Dedić, a contemporary jazz with elements of Istrian and Mediter- renowned Croatian jazz pianist. This dynamic duo ought ranean music, thus creating a unique artistic expression. to dazzle with their eloquent musicianship fused into one. QC‑2, Zagreb Youth Theatre, Teslina 7, 90 - 110kn, QC‑1, The Golden Hall of the Croatian Institute of His- www.tamaraobrovac.com. tory, Opatička 10. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 19 “Oh, Barbie” by Lonac, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Street Art EXCELLENT STREET ART CONTRIBUTES TO ZAGREB AS AN EXCITING HOME FOR ART AND CULTURE AND IS PROOF OF THE UNIQUE URBAN IDENTITY, ENERGY AND INDIVIDUALISM OF THE CITY. Street Art

CREATIVE WORKS Where does your tag name come from? OF FREEDOM Artez: My name comes from the time when I was tagging Turn a corner in Zagreb and you’re increasingly likely to walls illegally and I needed to hide my identity. That need come face to face with a piece of amazing street art that has been lost over time but the combination of letters I makes you stop and catch your breath with admiration. found interesting from back then have remained. Transporting you for a moment out of your daily routine, it Bare: I got it from my mom, hahaha! suddenly makes you think or makes you laugh. Dominik: It’s from my mom and dad, although my grand- What is street art? The first association is with graffiti. But pa wanted to call me Grga, which would have been awe- as the artists we’ll meet here show, this is very far from some! :D But Stipan called me Domingo about seven years the mindless, destructive scrawls many people think of ago and so that’s what my friends call me now. when they hear the word “graffiti”. Street artists, in the Stipan: It’s from the Dalmatian hinterland! true sense can create powerful images that challenge our perceptions, make us think and astonish with their sheer How did it all begin, and how is it today? visual audacity. Artez: It all began with a passion for drawing and it’s con- Street artists have created a stir worldwide with provok- tinued to this day. I often changed my styles and fields of ing works that question political and social injustice. Street interest, but the love of interacting with public spaces over art is fusing with and inspiring mainstream art forms and the years has remained. I think the biggest change in my these days work by street artists can come with a high city has been to do with the dimensions of the drawing price tag. These are artists who work in diverse media, space - the older I get, the bigger the walls get. who show in galleries and across borders, sharing ideas Bare: It started back in school writing on desks and note- and collaborating on projects with artists from around the books. The first spray paint can I picked up was in the world. seventh grade and I started doing graffiti, and scribbling everywhere. Today I’m completely against it because I live Zagreb has had a street art scene since the 1980s starting off of my work, and I think there are other ways of express- with a big project for the Universiade in 1987 when the ing yourself than scribbling and destroying property. Per- long mural alongside the railway tracks on Branimirova sistence is one of the most important things for this job. street was first painted. It was re-painted in 1999 to cele- Dominik: In elementary school I realized that I wasn’t brate the Day Against Drug Abuse, and again in 2010 when interested in school and discovered that I was going to the mural became a part of Zagreb’s Museum of Street Art, do something creative ... I even wanted to be a chef for a which includes works scattered around the while! I started with tables and eventually built up some neighbourhoods of Siget, Dugave and Utrine. The project experience, techniques, ideas, and nature took its course. is continuously growing to encompass and enliven other Modul: When I started there wasn’t much in terms of ma- parts of the city. terial, and if there was it was expensive and of poor quality. Excellent street art contributes to Zagreb as an exciting So I started to mix my own water-based sprays that would home for art and culture and is proof of the unique urban be quickly washed away by the rain. Today the situation identity, energy and individualism of the city. is such that everything’s available and in any colour your So let’s meet some of the magicians of paint and brush heart desires. whom are contributing to brightening up Zagreb. Stipan: I don’t know what you mean by “all”. But I think I started to draw when I was three or four years-old and I Introduce yourself! How would you define yourself? haven’t stopped. Everything has stayed mostly the same As an artist? Street artist? Something else? except for new techniques that I started to use, such as Artez: My name’s Artez, I have a degree in architecture, but murals, oil on canvas... I’m a street artist by profession and muralist from Belgrade. Bare: I’d define myself as someone who does what he What’s the first thing you do in the morning? loves, but also as an artist, street artist, organizer, etc. I like Artez: Like all millennials, the first thing I check is Insta- being around people and working on the street because gram so I can be up to date with current events from the that’s how the whole story begins and it’s accessible to world of street art. The rest of the morning depends on everyone. what city I’m in and the kind of project I’m currently work- Dominik: I would present myself as an illustrator and ing on. painter; while I’m just getting into street art, I’ve worked on Bare: I have a large collection of records, so I start my four murals and only one of them independently. morning off with music; then I do everything else. Modul: I began my career as a graffiti artist, then spent Dominik: First I drink a glass of water; sometimes I add a some time as a sign painter, then doing calligraphy, street spoonful of honey. Or I drink a smoothie - I like that more art, it’s all there! :D than breakfast. Stipan: Hi! I’m Stipan Tadić, painter, illustrator, muralist Stipan: I make and drink kefir. and draughtsman from Zagreb. I finished my studies at the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb in 2011, and since then I’ve In all forms of art, inspiration is crucial. What inspires been working here and there as an independent artist. you? facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 21 Street Art

“Digital Love Story” by Stipan Tadić, Photo by Igor Nobilo for Konzum Klik

Artez: I draw inspiration mostly from the location and en- definitely the mural “What is and what will be,” that I did in vironment in which the mural will be. Based on this, I cre- Užice. Of course, the portrait of my dog Iuna will always be ate the composition and colour palette. The themes pres- in a class of its own! ent on the wall very often come from the environment, Bare: In addition to my works on walls, I have to mention but also from characters, and often emotional moments the PIMP MY PUMP project that I succeeded in introduc- that life brings. Often what I draw on the wall is not some- ing. It began on a neighbourhood level - then on a city- thing that I’m initially able to clearly define, but it eventu- wide level - with the reconstruction of old abandoned ally becomes clear as to why I drew it at that time. Zagreb water pumps, which put a smile on your face with Bare: Life stories, music, something that I have experi- pleasant childhood memories. With this came the revival enced, something I love, something that interests me. of the old park on the border of the Upper and Lower Since Miro and I often work together, and now that we’ve Towns, and terminated with the finial product which is been involving Dominik, we inspire each other. the Art Park. Painting hospitals, fundraising projects and Dominik: Other people’s work has a significant impact workshops, that’s all me and my art. on what I do. I like to talk about the creative process and Dominik: I do illustrations and for now that’s my favourite generally about painting, illustration, or any kind of ex- work so far; my art thesis, which isn’t the best, but I did pression. For the most part, I want my work and drawings invest lots of time and effort. Even today it’s something to tell a story. that reminds me of the things I need to work on and how Modul: Everyday life inspires me. One day you might be I want to develop. sad, but produce the best work possible; while another Modul: Letters are my art: the art of beautifully drawn cal- day you’re so happy you can’t even get started. ligraphy is what I like to paint. There are no hidden sym- Stipan: I’m inspired by other artists - but most of all I’m bols, they’re just stylized letters that I like to be as readable driven by the fear of homelessness! and as decorative as possible. Each piece of work is inter- esting, and although there are some I’m not fully satisfied Tell us something about your art, does it include sym- with, I don’t have a favourite. The piece I do tomorrow is bolisms, messages or repeated patterns. What’s your always my favourite! : D favourite piece of work? Stipan: It depends on the series, the project itself, and Artez: I try to customize my work to the environment in what stage it’s in. Somehow I can’t take everything I’ve which it is located, and thus contribute to improving the done and put it all in one basket, but yes, I use elements quality of the spaces in which we live. I guess that’s a need from all of them. My favourite piece is the mural in Dugave, that I developed while I studied architecture and now that ‘The Arrival of Blacks in Dugave’ because it predicted the would be hard to give up. My favourite piece this year is future. 22 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Street Art

What’s the hardest part while doing a new piece of Street Art is a visually stimulating form of art. If you art? How do you pick a location? could add another element, what music would you Artez: The hardest part is definitely the beginning: creating pick to accompany your work? the appropriate composition, choosing the colour palette Artez: Right now it would be one of David August’s mixes. and matching the theme of the mural with the environment. Bare: Pink Floyd. Once the conceptual design is complete, the creation of the Dominik: Of all the musical genres, I somehow always piece may be physically difficult, but for me it doesn’t present come back to Blues - which for me is particularly endear- much of a problem. As far as the location is concerned, I’ve ing: it’s simple and very narrative; it tells a story that in- lately been fortunate enough that the place chooses me and spires me. I really like the period between the 50’s and 70’s, not the other way around. Otherwise, I like to draw in aban- especially Little Walter for his harmonica (which I also play) doned and dilapidated factories - walls where the ravages of and Lightnin’ Hopkins. time have left its mark are to me very inspiring. Modul: Music is always necessary when I work and I love Bare: The most difficult thing is negotiating the price of a Rock the most. commercial piece of work. And in terms of the work itself, the Stipan: I’ve never thought about that. But maybe it’d be hard part is setting up and the preparation until the actual classical music from the Impressionist period. fun part begins. While walking through the city I don’t look down or at my cell phone, I study everything around me (the Which cities inspire you the most? buildings and walls) and when I see something abandoned, Artez: Cities for me have become very boring, so I rarely decrepit - like the former Art Park - I get ideas about what I get inspiration from them. I’d say I get more inspiration could do. from the people I meet during my travels, whether that Dominik: I think it’s the same like in all forms of art, and that’s be in cities or not. Definitely my biggest inspiration is na- coming up with a viable idea. The sketch, format, medium and ture: plants, and the colours that appear in the sky during technique are all steps that come later and tie together with sunrise and sunset. the idea. The location is anywhere my friends call me to. :D Bare: Mostly Zagreb. But I like to travel, so every year I try Modul: The hardest part is setting it all up and paining the to go on a journey somewhere to expand my horizons a wall with the background colour. Everything after that is bit and along the way I get some inspiration. fun! The wall simply catches my eye. And if it’s a special Dominik: I’ve never sought inspiration from the city itself, location I try to get in contact with the owners and get but more through friends in Zagreb. I associate romance permission to carry out my idea. with cities like New York, Berlin… Stipan: The problem is that I’m not exclusively a street art- Modul: Of course, Zagreb! I’m glad that Zagreb has a lot ist; therefore the walls choose me - and not the other way of artists now. We’re very diverse and everyone has their around. I simply get invited by organizers to take part in own style with lots of room to develop. There aren’t imita- festivals where I’m presented with a wall. But now, for the tors who want to be like someone else, each artist is an first time I want to start choosing my own walls, so I think individual with their own space. I’ll have to do that soon. Stipan: Berlin, Moscow, Paris.

“Sea Turtle” by Etien, Photo by Marša Gajinov

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 23 Street Art

“Selfie with three crows” by Dominik Vuković

What’s the first thing that comes into people’s minds plain have nothing to say because you’re doing something when they see your work on the streets? positive for the community - regardless of the fact that Artez: Haha, I can’t speak for everyone, but I’m sure some you’re promoting yourself - the final product is for ev- of them say, ‘Look! It’s that fern-man again!’, probably be- eryone. cause of the floral motifs which I’ve recently been incor- Stipan: I’d love it if it made them smile, but I don’t know to porating in my work. what extent I achieve that. Bare: For now I’ve had more positive reactions than nega- tive ones because of my work on abandoned buildings, How long do your works last on the street? How do so the final result is something that immediately cheers you react when you see that someone has defaced people up. I’m more disappointed myself with some of my your work (if that happens)? work because I think I can do a lot better. Artez: It all depends on the particular location - there Dominik: Well, I don’t see them much, hahaha. I did a really is no rule. I came to the realization a long time ago solo piece called ‘The Birds of Zagreb’, and I don’t know that street art isn’t a permanent thing, so I don’t have a what people think when they see it. But while I was doing problem when other people manipulate my work. Once it they’d show interest as they walked by - which I thought the work is done it stops belonging to me and belongs to was cool. everyone; so if someone wishes to ruin it they have just as Modul: I most often get positive comments, like: ‘Wow, much right to do so as I did in drawing it. that’s nice!’ or ‘Awesome! The wall was terrible, now it’s Bare: There are lost of pieces that have remained un- finally beautiful.’ Realistically, the people who would com- touched to this day - in Trešnjevka there’s a piece in a park 24 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Street Art

“Bless from the past” by Lonac, Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Stipan: I’d be upset, but of the 5-6 years I’ve been doing murals most of my work has survived.

Are there artists whom you admire, and why? Artez: I admire musicians most of all because for me it’s incomprehensible that someone can trap energy as sound. Music influences my mood and the inspiration I get from it is reason enough to believe that some musicians PIMP MY PUMP Archives are from another planet. Bare: There are many of them who do great things but I on Adžijina St. that’s not been untouched in 3-4 - and don’t know who I’d specifically like to mention. there’s no problem if someone draws something beside Dominik: I’ve got so many I can’t count, but it changes it. The situation like the one on Branimir pains me a bit depending on my momentary interests and needs. I look where a mural that takes 2-3 days to do gets spray-painted at them as mentors I can learn something from. From on and disfigured in a few seconds. But when you’re doing some of them it may only be a word about technique that work on the street you know that it’s not forever and will I hadn’t thought about before but which I can now notice eventually fade away. in my work. Dominik: It’s still there :D Modul: Each artist has his own artist. I’ve been inspired by Modul: Some are still around today after years and years, Salvador Dali since childhood. As for street art artists there and some survive half an hour because there are vandals are a million and I follow all of them on social networks and of all the walls in the city they choose yours as the and so I’m up to date with their work which I think’s great. one to mark up. When I finish a work I take a photo for my Stipan: Of course, I always admire relaxedness, versatility, album, if it happens to be late I come back the next morn- directness, unpretentiousness, sense of space, emotion ing and after that whatever happens, happens. We had a and composition, and performance skills. situation in Mostar where overnight they tagged over our freshly completed wall which we had to fix up the next What other passions do you have besides for art? morning; of course, later the guys felt bad and apologized. Artez: I love to travel, cook and eat; so if I get to blend all When you work on the street you have to expect things three together and spice it up with drawing, my happiness like that. would know no bounds. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 25 Street Art

Modul at work

Bare: Traveling and snowboarding. Basically I like to be outside in nature as much as possible. Dominik: I like biking the most, but also sports and physi- cal activity in general. Like how books are for the soul, sports feed the body. Modul: I was a pro Skateboarder, and I generally love all “Making The Creation Of Adam” by Stipan Tadić sports. Besides football, I like to fish, ping pong is fun, I like to play card games like Bela, I like everything that young that it’s possible live off one’s art. I also think it’s very im- people like: D portant that your actions send a positive example, not Stipan: My biggest hobby is biking. only on a professional level, but also on all other levels. Something like Miss World, only with a little more paint on Where do you see the whole street art movement in the fingers and clothes, haha. ten, twenty years? Bare: I do, that’s why I try to contribute to community Artez: Computers - I think with the development of tech- projects like Art Park, educational workshops, and fund- nology will come new tools that will allow artists to create raising events, in order to send a particular message. huge works art from the comfort of their own homes (or Dominik: Yes, if you have the opportunity to put some- maybe from armchairs placed in front of the wall). Some thing in front of people, you definitely need to choose pioneering attempts using drones to draw on walls have your words and the way you present things. I especially already been made. And there are already rumours regard- like the idea that we are all teachers and students and that ing the development of large printers that will be able to we can influence someone or something. “print” murals on buildings. Of course, artists who make Modul: Of course. All works on the street are part of a street art using traditional methods will always be around, conversation with the people, so that’s why I always try to but the development of new technology will definitely af- make sure it’s positive. fect their lives. Stipan: Sure, every piece of work has to communicate Bare: Somehow I feel like it’s at its peak. There’s a hype with and educate the viewer. surrounding street art now, but I have no idea how things will continue to develop. It’s great to see that finally people Is there a specific thought or message you’d like to and institutions have begun to accept the street art move- pass to the readers? ment. Artez: Be consistent in your work and never give up on Dominik: On a higher level, of course, street art and mu- what you love! rals have been around for a long time but I think that it’s Dominik: Be teachers…and students… hahaha. still in its infancy, and in my opinion for development there Modul: Catch and release. needs to be more planning. Stipan: Drugs don’t expand your mind. Stipan: It will go into manirism and collapse; at best, the last jolt will produce something new + of course the “old- In your opinion, where’s the best place in Zagreb to schoolers” will continue to do graffiti. relax? Artez: Art Park, because that’s where my friends are! As an artist, do you feel any responsibility towards Bare: Art Park, but during the winter it’s Atelier Lapo Lapo society? and of course Sljeme. Artez: I feel an obligation to remain true to the craft that I Dominik: Art Park and any other park when the weather’s have chosen and to keep things on the streets as much as nice. I like to drink tea/beer/wine in Mali Medo on Opato- I can, so that in this way I can lead by example and prove vina St.,and I like to hang out in Atelier Lapo Lapo. 26 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Street Art

Modul: Art Park, Gradec, vidikovac, Strossmayerove stube, Zrinjevac, basically wherever there’s green space. During the summer it’s mostly along the river while fishing under the bridge and enjoying the shade. Stipan: Sljeme.

What’s the best way to get to know the city and its people? Artez: Through drawing, of course! Bare: Infiltrate yourself among like-minded people and explore the city with them. Dominik: Through conversation! That’s the best and most natural way. Modul: Drawing and conversations: that’s how many new projects and friendships have come about. Stipan: I somehow always meet the best people in the strangest places, but again, Krivi Put is a nice place to start.

Where do you think’s the best new place for street art in Zagreb? Bare: The sides of buildings that are in bad shape which are all over the city. “Making The Creation Of Adam” by Stipan Tadić Dominik: Neighbourhoods! Neighbourhoods are great: Novi Zagreb and Trnje have many grey and depressing socialist buildings which could be brought to life with murals. Modul: I think the only legal place remaining is the round- about, which is also the worst possible place. A lot of the facades have begun to be painted, so I think that most of the potential walls are in the centre and are yet to be discovered. And the people themselves will start to seek out the artists, just like we were contacted by the tenants of a building who were interested in their facade being painted. Stipan: I think the whole city has potential for street art, especially Novi Zagreb.

How has street art changed in Zagreb and Croatia in the last few years? Bare: Like I’ve already said, I think we’re experiencing a lot of hype, and that fact’s proven by how much work we have. Dominik: It’s growing and developing well, but there can still be more. Modul: It’s changed immensely. Until about 5 years ago there weren’t so many people - mainly graffiti artists - while now there are people doing murals, stencils, stickers, posters and looking for any piece of wall, entranceways, and door where they can leave their mark. There was a boom and a lot of new names came out of it, which if it continues like this will be great for street art. Stipan: It’s strange here, street art had a roof over its head before it really came to life on the street. Interestingly it’s held together by a total of about 5 people. At first, the only serious “street artist” - except for graffiti artists - was Filjio, who did a pretty good job of keeping his anonymity; which I think is cool with “real” street artists. Right now Lonac is very active and very good + graffiti artists Chez Bare at work and ManeMei ... facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 27 Restaurants CROATIAN MEET THE MEAT BALON BATAK GRILL The super-friendly waiters, modern interior, lovely A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This outside seating, good cooking at sensible prices. Be restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly sure to book for an evening table.QI‑4, Prisavlje 2, trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept tel. (+385-1) 604 09 18, www.restaurantbalon.com. fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick, Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). P ­T ­A ­6 ­L ­ but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with G ­B ­W urnebes. Divine.QK‑2, Vlaška 115, tel. 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Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 22:00. (30 - 75kn). N ­B ­X ISABELLA A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15 minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a SEAFOOD converted barn, with a superb raftered dining room, DUBRAVKIN PUT where they offer up all kinds of meals with local and Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to international accents (such as fondue, flambeed dish- this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall es and chateaubriand). The emphasis is definitely on entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood de- meat – they have a game section on the menu, and lights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection 73, www.restoran-isabella.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sun- Closed Sun. (65 - 110kn). 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A great choice of beers, both domestic to have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole and international, is available in what is apparently Tesle 17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, www.restoran-korcula. one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2, Mesnička 6, hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 165kn). P ­J ­ tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, www. A ­G ­B ­W starifijaker.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (55 - 130kn). P ­A ­G ­X ­W INTERNATIONAL VINODOL CANTINA Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially A little piece of Italy in the heart of Zagreb. Here you’ll well known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some find the menu brimming with handmade pasta, sauce, of the traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportu- and bread. It’s a blend of Italian tradition, passion, and nity is perhaps the best in the centre of town, with know-how, and of course the almost stereotypical Italian candle-light flickering as you move from anxious and chef singing in the kitchen while preparing everything, disagreeable to smooth and charming (finally). Highly show-cooking style. The shelves are awash with wines on recommended.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) offer, and Cantina might well be the only place in Zagreb 481 14 27/(+385-1) 481 13 41, www.vinodol-zg.hr. (if not the entire country) where you can get your hands Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 180kn). P ­J ­A ­6 ­G ­ on a sparkling red wine. There’s even Italian beer on the B ­W menu. Also at Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16.QD‑2, 28 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Restaurant Voncimer - the gastronomic but casual value for money dining and drinking experience in a relaxed atmosphere. Personal selection of Croatian wines, mainly from smaller independent vineyards and artisan winemakers.

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MANO Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve in advance.QI‑2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, www.mano.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 150kn). P ­A ­G ­B ­W

VONCIMER Situated just a mere hop, skip, and a jump from Zagreb’s džamija, Voncimer has reinvented itself as an International eatery, with Ukrainian specialities. Situated in the ORIS House of Architecture, it’s ideal for impressing friends, Rooster in red wine, Voncimer Archives family, or business guests, or simply for enjoying yourself. We can recommend trying a traditional house drink, Mors, made with cranberries, cinnamon, aniseed, and cloves. QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. (+385-1) 798 83 74, www. oris.hr/hr/voncimer/. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 125kn). P ­J ­A ­G

ZINFANDEL’S Zinfandels, named for a variety of grape which originated in Croatia, specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food, using local and international know-how to best cre- ate great dishes which resonate with regional authenticity. The huge štrukli is well worth trying, and if you were to try two, no one could fault you.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Es- planade Zagreb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66, www.zinfandels.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). P ­A ­G ­B ­W Hemingway Bar & Bistrot Archives

Trg Drage Iblera 10, tel. (+385-) 091 592 59 03, www. CHIC & CHEERFUL cantina.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:30 - 23:00. Closed BISTRO ROUGEMARIN Sun. (18 - 65kn). P­i ­T ­J ­A ­B ­S Tuck in a napkin bib, here comes the burger to write home about…to write sonnets about… to declare juicy, beefy CARPACCIO goodness on par with lottery winnings about. Served at Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this ready-to-eat temperatures on perfectly soft, crispy-crust robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From buns with thin bacon slices and crunchy lettuce leaves. carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and comple- Then there is lešada, seafood, lamb, chicken or beef mented from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, www.ristorantecarpaccio.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 150kn). P ­J ­A ­G ­B ­W

HEMINGWAY BAR & BISTROT Hemingway is an established name that oozes in class and is a place to be seen. With years of experience, the staff is highly trained with attention paid to every detail, as with the food, drinks and even cigars. Cocktails are a menu classic with some unheard of combos that will knock your socks off, and the music is very much based on the clubbing and lounge scene!QB‑3, Trg Maršala Tita 1, tel. (+385-1) 485 58 88, www.bistro.hr/. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. i ­T ­J ­A ­G ­B ­W Voncimer Archives 30 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Restaurants

cooked in salty water with various ingredients for spice. top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at Tasty, healthy and served with potatoes or silver beat. It’s 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel. love at first bite and highly recommended.QK‑4, Frana (+385-1) 484 12 18, www.asia.hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (29 Folnegovića 10, tel. (+385-1) 618 77 76/(+385-1) 788 - 125kn). P ­A ­G ­W 87 76, www.rougemarin.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 80kn). A ­6 ­G ­B ­W ASIA T HOUSE Zagreb has seen a rise in non-regional cuisine in recent BISTRO ŠALŠA months and years, and all of it very much welcomed in- Ladies, this is one bistro where all the chefs and staff are deed. Here, just around the corner from the main square, men and one would expect that at least 50% of the cus- you can call in for tea, coffee, beer, most of it with a dis- tomer base finds this enticing. The concept is oh so simple tinct Asian feel to it. But it’s not just a place for a break with a choice of three types of hearty meals per day. The from shopping, it’s a place to shop, and to eat. The market menu changes daily and is tops for brunch or lunch.QH‑3, is expansive and offers a great many ingredients for the Kostelska 11, tel. (+385-) 095 199 54 59. Open 11:30 - burgeoning chefs among you, while the restaurant has a 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 40kn). P ­N ­ menu packed full of familiar items, and some not so famil- G ­B ­S ­W Marunada - Lovran Tourist Board Archives iar. Connected to the Asia Gold restaurant, so you know it’s quality.QC‑2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 86, www. MALI BAR asia-thouse.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 150kn). Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot P ­A ­G ­B ­W carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the ROYAL decor with over thirty business casual making up the Located by the Zagreb , Royal India is the per- major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but fect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine. Situ- with a tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. ated in the basement, the scent of incense greets you at (+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (50 - the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some 110kn). P ­A ­G ­B ­W samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other PAPA’S delicious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy This American styled burger joint, not far from the heart because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food of Zagreb, certainly looks the part. Music, check, decor, really is spicy. Best of all, the extremely friendly staff rec- check, all the beautiful people, check... The food is priced ommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for well, and with word spreading fast you’d be well to take the day.QC‑1, Kaptol 27, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65, www. any opportunity to pay a visit, while there are seats free. royal-india-zagreb.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 90kn). QB‑1, Tuškanac 1, tel. (+385-1) 483 40 17, www.papas. P ­J ­A ­G ­W hr. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (24 - 38kn). P ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W TIME RESTAURANT & BAR Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place certainly isn’t. Perhaps better known to many as a great ETHNIC bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food, ASIA something not so common in Zagreb even a few years Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the rolls with duck.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT de- 60. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat cor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact 09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 160kn) €€. P ­T ­J ­ Voncimer Archives it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently A ­G ­B ­K ­X facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 31 Restaurants

BREAKFAST BISTRO FOTIĆ Vegetarian quiche with ham, omelets, coffee, freshly squeezed oranges, fried bread, whole-grain groat, eggs, apple and cheese strudel.QC‑3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1) 481 04 76, www.bistrofotic.com. Break- fast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Sun. (20 - 25kn). i ­J

BISTROTEKA Oatmeal, porridge, scrambled eggs, poached eggs, quinoa, and sandwiches with avocado.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 11, www.bistroteka. hr. Breakfast is served: Mon - Fri 08:00 - 11:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. (17 - 42kn). i ­J Cantina Avenue Mall, Photo by Marša Gajinov CORNER BAR They offer a large selection of coffee and tea, along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smooth- ies, natural juices. There’s something to suit every- one’s taste!QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93. Breakfast is served from 08:00 - 12:00. (22 - 33kn). P ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­U ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W

JOHANN FRANCK Homemade cheese and sour cream, bacon and onion, gluten-free bread, omelet with cheese and mushrooms, turkey sandwich with mozzarella, toast, Cantina Avenue Mall, Photo by Marša Gajinov croissants with chocolate and jam.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, www.franck.eu/johann-franck/. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. (8 - 65kn). i ­J

KAVA TAVA How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled or sunny-side-up? Not to mention bacon’n’eggs, sausages’n’eggs, toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with cream, tortillas.QA‑2; C‑2, Bri- tanski trg & Tkalčićeva ulica 12, www.kavatava. com. Breakfast is served: 07:00 - 24:00. (14 - 40kn). J ­N ­B ­W

Bistor Rougemarin, photo by Bojan - Haron Markičević LOUIE CAFE & KITCHEN English breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausages and mush- rooms), a protein smoothie, yogurt with chia seeds, LUNCHES croissants, muffins, homemade focaccia with chick- FAJN BISTRO en, roast beef sandwiches and burgers.QC‑1, Nova ‘Fajn’ dining indeed here, as any regular will tell you. Well Ves 19, tel. (+385-1) 466 61 59. Breakfast is served: known for its exceptionally friendly staff, Fajn is situated Tue - Sun 09:00 - 11:30. (18 - 58kn). A ­6 ­W in Zagreb’s Upper Town, well within striking distance of a multitude of tourist sites, and Zagreb’s plentiful water- ing holes. Mediterranean, international and contemporary POD ZIDOM COFFEE, FOOD & WINE BAR food is on offer, and the wine menu won’t disappoint. Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro QB‑1, Vranyczanyeva 6, tel. (385-1) 485 14 11, www. right in the heart of Zagreb. It offers dishes made fajnbistro.com.hr. Open 13:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (50 - from the fresh groceries which it gets from the near- 120kn) €€. P ­T ­J ­A ­L ­G ­B ­X ­W by , a wide selection of Croatian indig- 32 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Restaurants enous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails and refreshments. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch VEGE RESTAURANTS from Dolac) also, Pod Zidom has a special à la carte NISHTA menu, featuring beef carpaccio, pork sliders, agno- It’s far from ništa (nothing) that you’ll get here, should lotti with rabbit ragu. Pod Zidom also plays host to you choose to forego meat for your meal. The menu has live music during the week(end).QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see a wonderful tel. (+385-) 099 325 36 00. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian dishes. The Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 75kn). menu also contains vegan and gluten-free dishes for E ­B those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the lo- cal wines, beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. Staff is very helpful and will assist in choosing PIZZA an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian repast. A FRANKY’S return visit is definitely on the cards. Kitchen closes at Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north of 22:00QB‑2, Masarykova 11/1, tel. (+385-1) 889 74 44/ Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd floor), (+385-) 099 254 69 59, www.nishtarestaurant.com. so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink) before Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). P ­T ­ heading home, and in relative peace and quiet too. Do J ­A ­6 ­G ­W your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass of wine. Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always something ZRNO BIO BISTRO you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI‑2, Nova ves 17, tel. (+385-1) 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which 486 08 34. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (22 - 63kn). P ­T ­J ­ can boast such a thing, it also a decent selection A ­U ­L ­V ­G ­B ­X ­S ­W of regional wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with a narrow terrace outside if the KOD ŽACA weather allows. There’s a bookstore in the basement If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not as well, for budding architects.QB‑2, Medulićeva spoken to anyone living within its delivery radius. 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, www.zrnobiobistro.hr. Known for its pizza and lasagne you could probably Open 12:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn). P ­A ­ eat here all month long and still have something 6 ­G ­B ­W new to try. Zagreb is truly blessed when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to suggest a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably edges it.QJ‑2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, www. pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn). P ­T ­6 ­V ­N ­G ­S ­W

O’HARA O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen their pizza chefs win award after award. The western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complaining, and nor are the many others who travel across the city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you might come away thinking you could have eaten more, you will not feel the least bit hun- gry. That’s a guarantee.QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www.oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (38 - 86kn). P ­T ­A ­ G ­B ­X ­S

ZERO ZERO Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here… The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Nea- politan, and we’d love to tell you more about the décor and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates, family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35, tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20 - 69kn). P ­T ­J ­A ­U ­G ­B ­X ­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 33 Local Flavour delightful while being transformed in the city’s restaurants AUTUMN FLAVOURS and Zagreb households where every day cooking has Rain, they say, falls ever so often; scientists argue over not been abandoned. To not peek into an old tavern or a whether we will experience global warming or an ice age, modern restaurant which has modernised an old recipe to summers seem ever so brief. However, despite of it all and make it even better, would be a shame. Actually, there’s no with our luck, the couriers of Zagreb’s autumn are always real dilemma there, for when the Grički cannon announces ‘the same old’, ordinary, charming, and impeccable, colour- with a bang that it is exactly noon, it is time for lunch! In ad- ful, alluring. You can sense her smell in the air, because the dition, that fresh cheese and sour cream from the kumice smell of Zagreb’s autumn is, as they say in Zagreb, utterly on Dolac, was eaten long ago with a piece of corn bread delicious. whilst standing. Dolac awakens all senses in the autumn. On Zagreb’s cen- Autumn is the season that longs for, as it is so popularly tral open market, under the sunshades in the colours of said, food that is eaten with a spoon, food that fortifies but the šestine umbrella an array of curiosities are compressed, does not fall heavily on the stomach. Autumn is ideal for even the kumice or godmothers awaken from the abun- hundreds of types of vegetable stews, for a plate of young dance. Some ingredients are special, authentic autumnal beans in which meat is optional, and which can and does favourites of old Zagreb, such as young beans that will not have to be adorned with a pork sausage, for sour pork be eaten with a spoon, pumpkins that will be made into lungs, for tripe in which men, more frequently than wom- a dainty pumpkin and cream cheese strudel, chestnuts en, look for comfort with a spoon. Tripe, that lunch-classic, that will smell in the streets until the real winter comes, such as let us say wine goulash or gentle egg noodles with or porcini mushrooms which the hardworking mushroom cabbage that reminds us of childhood. A little bit of cab- pickers have sent down to the city from lofty , bage, a little bit of grandma’s noodles and there is happi- hovering high above Zagreb. The same ingredients that are ness. And ham hock!? It is important not to be impressed strutted on Dolac, are the same as those that smell oh-so by a large piece of pork meat that can be taken off the bone with one’s fingers. Autumn looks for invigoration of all sorts, and ham hock is even more than that. Every bite from Zagreb’s gastronomical autumns reminds of home, wherever you may be from. To be, truly, for a moment, and then for evermore to remain, a real Purger or authentic Zagreb resident, it helps to buy a bag of hot chestnuts, and to pair it with Portugiser, a young wine. For Zagreb has its Beaujolais, its young wine, which is, why would it not be, maybe even better than that which the French have made famous. Croatia has a singer named Oliver. In his repertoire is a song that lists tens of meals that can be made from eggs. When you once try Zagreb’s autumnal delicacies, it is easily possi- ble that you will start to sing lyrics that list: ˝sour pork lung, vegetable stew, pork sausage, black pudding, young beans, egg noodles with cabbage, thin dried flatbread, cottage cheese pasty, wine goulash, ham hock, pumpkin pastry, porcini mushrooms…˝ Rain, they say, falls ever so often; scientists argue over whether we will experience global warming or an ice age, summers seem ever so brief. Luckily, Zagreb’s autumn is always ‘the same old’, ordinary, charming, overwhelming. Here she is, you can feel the smell in the air - utterly deli- Peppers and home made ajvar, photo by Višnja Arambašić cious!

HIT THE MARKET! If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want to miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find meat, fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.

The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide. Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the Dawn in the vineyard, Slatina, photo by Mirsad Mujanović lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunt- 34 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour

day at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered bag with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies are known as kumice and for their years spent sup- plying the city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at the top of the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be trucked in from the coast where it’s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun.

See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale The Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archives traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce – natural food is not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud (but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight on the scales).

The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter, chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and lit- tle food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule.

If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat sec- tion where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it’s a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a little like a giant chorizo), multitude sala- mis and the scourge of children everywhere, offal.

Potentially even more off-putting is thedairy section at Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aro- ma. There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese Dried Figs, photo by Višnja Arambašić from Pag island.

ing experience. You have to find a way to communicate A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voy- with the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships age, part natural history adventure. The creatures of the with their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just deep whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen for the weekend. How can you be sure you’re not short- before. Along with shimmering crates of sardines are changed or given spoiled produce? plump pink scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, ​Don’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an fearsomely-toothed, delicious and hideously expensive open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If dentex. If you’re not sure how to prepare these things, ask you look carefully you can spot the importers – the fruit is the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and of- a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it fer advice on cooking. Look for fish with plump flesh and might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its pack- bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s fish to suit every pocket, aging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yester- the healthiest of them all. 36 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour

KARLO TASTY GETAWAYS This charming picturesque restaurant is located in the Interested in trying some delicious local specialties avail- heart of the Plešivička Wine Road, part of an area locally able around the Zagreb area? You’re in luck because we’ve nicknamed, “Little Tuscany.’’ They offer traditional dish- made a list of some great places for you to try out dur- es full of mouth-watering flavour and seductive aromas ing your visit. Savour the taste of traditional local dishes using fresh seasonal ingredients, such as homegrown made using only the freshest seasonal ingredients at these rabbit prepared with a delicious rose champagne or mouth-watering restaurants, which can be enjoyed along savoury chicken and vegetable skewers. These tasty with various homemade wines produced in Central Croa- meals can be enjoyed with some homemade wine tia. Or, as an alternative, stop by an organic farm to pick up while overlooking a beautiful view of the vineyards in some fresh produce and make your own meal. this gastronomic fairytale.QPleševica 40, tel. (+385- 1) 629 30 91. Open 12:00 – 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. BERTIJA POD LIPOM (60 – 95kn). This is a 200 year old, originally decorated, cottage and a protected monument that continues to serve up classic MAJSECOV MLIN dishes from the hills of Zagorje. You can taste the home- For an authentic zagorski ambience make sure to stop made strudels, sausages, cheese and sour cream on offer. by Majsecov mlin. Several small wooden house are lo- The owner Božo is the heart and soul of this place and cated around an old mill, in which you can still grind makes sure that everything runs smoothly.QZarebačka 8, flour. Try some local dishes which are made using Gornja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 91 60. Open 09:00 – only ingredients from the Zagorje region. Mulberries, 22:00. Closed Mon. N ­B ­W pumpkin oil and cream of pumpkin soup are avail- able to try along with numerous other local delicacies. QObrtnička 47, Donja Stubica, tel. (+385-49) 28 80 92, www.majsecov-mlin.com. Open 09:00 – 23:00. (65 – 90kn). A ­G ­B ­X ­W

MALA HIŽA Dishes in a 125 years old restaurant - This majestic small traditional wooden building was built in 1887, dismantled, relocated, reassembled, refurbished and opened in 2001. What a journey! And when going to such extremes, the food just has to be good. There is a yearly all-round menu and an additional seasonal menu that combines tradition with innovation.QBal- ogovec 1, Mačkovec, Čakovec, tel. (+385-40) 34 11 01, www.mala-hiza.hr. Open 10:00 – 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 – 24:00. (65 – 185kn). P ­A ­B ­W

THE FOODIE’S GUIDE 18. 09 - 30.10 » ISTRIA –TRUFFLES, WINE AND CHESTNUTS Istria’s old hilltop towns and rolling countryside paint a picture of a Croatian Tuscany complete with a host of foodie treats. Gastronomically speaking, this Pomegranate, photo by Višnja Arambašić is one of Croatia’s most interesting regions. The heart of Istria is where the white truffle flourishes and you can really dabble in some gem dishes spruced with truffles. Join in the exhibitions, promo sales, cook- ing workshops, wine, cheese and other eco gastro sampling on the Zigante Truffle Days in Livade. Qwww.trufflefair.com.

07.10 - 16.10 » WEEK OF RESTAURANTS From New York to London and to our humble Zagreb! Choose restaurants to wine and dine at the mere price of 100kn, special 3 course menus will be served up . What a bargain and great way to experience new cuisines. Bučnica, The Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archives Qwww.tjedanrestorana.com. 38 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Local Flavour

07.10 - 09.10 » HRVATSKA KOSTAJNICA 10.10 - 16.10 » GASTRO TUROPOLJA CHESTNUT FESTIVAL (VELIKA GORICA) This is a wonderful event which celebrates chestnuts and A festival of traditional foods promoting the cuisine and every autumn attracts numerous visitors to the beautiful cultural attractions of the town of Velika Gorica and its en- little town of Hrvatska Kostajnica. Expect an array of mu- virons. Just a short drive from Zagreb, Turopolje is a region sical, sporting and cooking events – all dedicated to the of peaceful villages characterised by wooden architecture. main theme of chestnuts, as well as a nice stroll through As you drive around, you’ll find a whole host of specialities the chestnut woods.QHrvatska Kostajnica, www.tzg- and a welcoming atmosphere waiting for you in the lo- hrvatska-kostajnica.hr. cal pubs and restaurants.QVelika Gorica Tourist Board, www.tzvg.hr. 14.10 - 16.10 » 12TH PUMPKIN FESTIVAL A festival where you’ll have the chance to sample and buy 16.10 » ZELINA CHESTNUT FESTIVAL a whole range of delicacies made from pumpkin. There’ll (KLADEŠĆICA) be myriad traditional foods on display, as well as rides by Make the most of the autumn days in the leafy hills around carriage and classic car laid on, children’s play areas and Sveti Ivan Zelina, and don’t miss out on fresh roast chest- workshops, theatre and music performances and exhibi- nuts this year. After an easy hike to the Kladešćica hik- tions. This festival is one of the highlights of the year in ing hut you’ll find a merry throng picking and roasting Ivanić-Grad – and you’re most welcome to join in the chestnuts. Fresh grape is laid on to quench your thirst and fun!QIvanić-Grad, www.tzig.hr. delicious, locally - produced nibbles will keep you going until the chestnuts are done!QSveti Ivan Zelina, www. tz-zelina.hr.

11.11 » ST MARTIN’S DAY (MARTINJE) In the rich wine-producing hills around Zagreb, on St Martin’s Day the grape must is “baptised” and turned into wine in a jovial ceremony with all the trappings of a real baptism. On this day, roast goose is eaten since according to legend St Martin hid in a stable filled with geese when he was proclaimed bishop. Martinje is celebrated in many towns and villages around Zagreb, particularly in the hill- side wine cellars around .Qwww.tzzz.hr.

25.11 - 26.11 » 11º ZAGREB VINOCOM Fancy a drop of wine! Yet another top quality exhibition that promotes the very best in national and international vino as locals would call it.QC‑4, Esplanade Zagreb Ho- tel, Mihanovićeva 1, www.vino.com.hr.

Gastro Turopolja, photo by Mario Žilec, Velika Gorica Tourist Board Archives THE LITTLE MARKET FROM THE ATTIC Many people feel they’d love to have better access to healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, producers of organic food need better access to custom- ers. The Little Market from the Attic (Mali plac s Ta- vana) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to have a lot of fun along the way. Here you can find all kinds of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croa- tia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural healthy food. For locations and dates check their website or Facebook page.Qwww.mali-plac.org. J

WINE SCHOOL BY JELENA ŠIMIĆ VALENTIĆ Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these workshops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of three 180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates to be released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes always begin at 18:30 and four international wines will always be The Pumpkin Festival, Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archives tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098 165 80 73, www.pupitres.hr. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 39 Coffee & Cakes BLOK BAR FINJAK A small space brought to life by the creative talents of Neatly nestled just off the street, Finjak finds itself alongside Zagreb’s most famous designers, the Blok offers much a number of like-minded businesses. This delightful step- more than a seat inside architectural artistry. While sight back-in-time antique-filled cafe has a very nice selection and touch delight in the cubic and cushy, take in the tastes of high quality teas, as well as the usual coffee fare you’d and smells of fresh bakery sweets and smoothies that expect. Heineken and San Servolo can be found here. In- complement the select coffee offerings. They offer a large doors is non-smoking but there is an outdoor terrace.QE‑2, selection of Croatian wines. Finest of all is the friendly staff, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-) 092 111 34 83. Open 08:00 - 22:00, welcoming all to their futuristically homey space.QE‑2, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Tomašićeva 13. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. P ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W KINO EUROPA Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is so CUKERAJ much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes Cuker is for sugar, so be sure you’ll feel some sweet sen- and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as sations. Also at Pakoštanska 12 (G-4), tel. (+385-1) 302 01 much. Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, mu- 54, and Dubrava 20, tel. (+385-1) 291 05 66. QA‑2, Britan- sic performances, and of course documentaries. Kino Eu- ski trg 9, tel. (+385-1) 558 84 49, www.cukeraj.hr. Open ropa is not only home to any number of film festivals but 08:30 - 21:00. P ­J ­N ­G also to a rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to ELI’S check the cinema’s website for upcoming features.QB‑2, Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small Varšavska 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, www.kinoeuropa. coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner hr. Open 08:30 - 24:00. P ­J ­B ­W feels it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in ORIJENT oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure There are people we know who practically orgasm when of getting the right sort of coffee to match the time of they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything year. Eli’s are careful about the quality of their prod- is home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in uct and only supply a few locations elsewhere in the most other places is made from packet mix. Here it’s city.QA‑2, 63, tel. (+385-) 091 455 56 08, www. fresh cream, and the same stuff goes in the ice cream. eliscaffe.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Nice old-skool vibe.QJ‑2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385- Sun 09:00 - 14:00. P ­J ­N ­G ­W 1) 231 53 23. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. P ­N ­G ­W EXPRESS BAR It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff PALAINOVKA (but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as start- and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and out- ing point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore side, naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is the area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the cor- based on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express ner you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which has ‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different in turn takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the countries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in back of Ksaverska. If you’re ending here you’ll be happy blend this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely to know that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of different. They also have single origin coffee! So, if you your tea and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and devour coffee, then you need to put the time aside to try an even better selection of beer.QC‑1, Ilirski trg 1, tel. a few cups.QC‑2, Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat (+385-1) 485 13 57. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 08:00 – 22:00, Sun 09:00 – 14:00. 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P ­N ­B ­X ­W

40 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Coffee & Cakes

NOT JUST A GREAT SPOT TO SIP YOUR MORNING COFFEE IN PEACE, BUT ALSO FOR A FUN NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN WITH FRIENDS.

Open : 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00

Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) • tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93

PIF available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff Always nice to sit on a heated terrace, during the morning in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room rather than at night, and watch life go by. Pleased to note style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a that Pif is still one of the fastest cafes around the area to winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake! QC‑1, Nova Ves 11, have their outdoor seating ready for customers, even dur- Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-) 099 343 41 11, www.torte-i-to. ing the cold weather. Great mint tea available here, which hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P ­N ­G ­B ­W is always nice. Staff are prompt and friendly, and inside is well ventilated should you be a non-smoker, and unable to U DVORIŠTU find space on the terrace. Plenty of local and craft beers, and Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this open late.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59. chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the 11:00 - 01:00. P ­J ­B street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer se- lection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the SWANKY MONKEY GARDEN process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s all cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great ad- too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists.QB‑3, Jurja dition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls of Žerjavića 7/2. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers and 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. P ­6 ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W documentation dating back to the building’s previous life as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which sits VIS À VIS neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and orchard. Located just beneath the Zagreb funicular, see an entire Thumbs up to the staff who organise live bands, DJs, movie new approach to cakes and pastries which are all made glu- nights, warm ups for club nights and festivals.QB‑2, Ilica 50, ten free! Only nutritious healthy ingredients are used includ- tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - ing stevia, rice or soy milk, flax seed, olive oil, cranberries, 01:00. P ­A ­G ­B ­X ­W sweet potatoes, carrots, almonds, cashews, fruits and more. Digest it all with 100% Arabica coffee, revolution teas, or TORTE I TO healthy fruit juices. Get a terrace seat and remember, ‘health Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café is wealth’.QB‑2, Tomićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 483 15 51. Open offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. P ­J ­N ­B ­W facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 41 Nightlife

Johann Franck, photo by Dino Ninković

High on demand, here you can find the latest information KSET about nightlife in the Croatian capital which is becoming On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a the ‘must visit’ category in terms of rankings. From jazz, reputation for some especially cool live shows that in- funk and alternative music, through to new and old R&B, clude flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is hip hop to edgier electro beats, we present to you an entire the icing on the cake. Locals are becoming very passion- range of what that is ‘smoking hot’ in the Zagreb’s nightlife ate about their worship of this place.QB‑4, Unska 3, tel. scene. It has to be said that the city is full of small sized (+385-1) 612 97 58, www.kset.org. Open 20:00 - 24:00, nightclubs and bars made for clubbing and warm-up par- Fri 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E ­G ­W ties, so there is no excuse to stay in as its time to face the music; ladies get the heels on, gents get the gel and head MOČVARA into town for a party all-round. This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something ALTERNATIVE going on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre AKC MEDIKA performances, literary events and art happenings includ- Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked be- ed. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the hind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ bar area is reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club squat that was granted official status by a city administra- opens only for organized concerts or special events, so it’s tion eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community. best to keep track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb, A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. Open for or- DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of ganized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either track via the web or Facebook page. P ­T ­6 ­U ­L ­ dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their E ­N ­G ­B ­X ­W website to see what’s going on.QA‑3, Pierottijeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 619 72 23, www.attack.hr. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00 and on request. J ­6 ­N ­B ­X ­W BARS BACCHUS JAZZ BAR JABUKA Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted This is the last bastion of unadulterated in Za- grotto, but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in greb. Black clad sulky people dance it up on Fridays and the courtyard on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, Saturdays in a pantomime of rock and leather, but not or under a fig tree. The solitary can read one of the books without a touch of 1980s irony and even some electro- from the shelves under the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava pop.QH‑2, Jabukovac 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 43 97. Open 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 04. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. P Sun. T ­J ­6 ­N ­B ­X ­W 42 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Nightlife

viewer has already been back more than a few times. QA‑4, Ivana Broza 48, tel. (+385-1) 366 83 60, www. jiggybar.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. P ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­U ­E ­ B ­X ­W

KINO KLUB GRIČ There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft, main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a must-see.QC‑2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03 06, www.artkinogric. hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. T ­J ­6 ­ N ­B ­X ­W

MOJO BAR, WINE RAKIJA & CO. Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, over- looking the fountain, on Trg hrvatskih velikana, or enter the underground bar and move into a smoky urban style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-and- The Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail Bar Archives white pictures, create a mellow and calming atmo- sphere. A very large selection of wines and rakijas are BOOZE&BLUES offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights, A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze & featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. Every Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the spirit you’d likely see on Bourbon Street, open late, and live weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There’s a Heineken 526 67 33. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. tap made from a functional saxophone which is worth a P ­T ­A ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W visit alone.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483 77 65, www.booze-and-blues.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, TABAN BAR Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. P ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W Leave your footprint at this American downtown-like bar which is located on one of Zagreb’s most popular CORNER BAR walking streets. The outdoor patio is the perfect loca- Situated in the Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil tion to sit back with some friends and people watch. yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace cre- Inside, the brick walls, graffiti style writing on a chalk- ates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst board and comfy couches create an urban feel. Usu- the contemporary and chic decor, a top escape from the ally featuring rock music on Friday nights and DJs on hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip Saturdays, make sure to check online for weekly event your morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out details.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 82, tel. (+385-1) 553 35 27, on the town with friends. They offer a large selection of www.tabanzagreb.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat wines, champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea, 08:00 - 04:00. T ­J ­6 ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natu- ral juices, cigars and whiskey. There’s something to suit TESLA POWER HOUSE everyone’s taste! In addition, they host various musical Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central loca- evenings with multimedia equipment and projectors tion features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as available for presentations.QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca well as copious Tesla related decorations. Live music, 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 funk rock… Everything goes at this Zagreb dive bar. 93. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - Ideally located for those waiting for events in nearby 11:00. P ­T ­J ­A ­6 ­U ­E ­G ­B ­X ­W Kino Europa or on Trg.QB‑2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385-) 098 955 81 94. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - JIGGY BAR 02:00. P ­T ­J ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W Jiggy almost feels as if you’re entering some sort of WWII shelter, but it’s very cosy within and very welcoming. The THE PLACE venue is split so as to allow patrons to enjoy a quiet-ish Make a night of it at ‘The Place Bar’ which offers more beer, or revel in whatever live music is playing. Funk, alt than 35 world brands of bourbon and whiskey, over 10 rock, etc., just a few of the genres on offer, and this re- brands of cognac, 12 brands of gin and 60 types of se- facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 43 Nightlife CLUBS JOHANN FRANCK If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee and watch the world go by. More terrace space than you can shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of Za- greb’s main square. An expansive food menu, with daily specials posted on site and on social media.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81 53, www. Corner Bar Archives johannfranck.hr. Open Mon - Thu, Sun 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. P ­J ­A ­G ­B ­X

KLUB. Created as part of the Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub. is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located underground. It is accessible through the Joe Strummer Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared by the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of bands to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n’ roll and in- die to electronic and punk.QD‑3, Pavla Hatza 14, www. subkulturnicentar.com.hr. Open Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. N ­X ­W Mojo Bar, Wine Rakija & co. Archives PEPER lected wines. The mind boggling choices are matched by A familiar name in Zagreb’s nightlife, but now in a new lo- its modern interior with a glowing effect. Judging by the cation. Peper Ilica 5, formerly Pepermint, still continues to name, this is the place to be when it comes to having a provide you with great music and great drink deals. Funk, drink or more.QC‑2, Teslina 12, tel. (+385-1) 658 65 57, disco, pop, rockabilly, and soul. And soul is what this venue www.theplacebar.eu. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 has in abundance. Open all week round, it’s always worth - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. P ­T ­J ­6 ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W calling in to see what’s on that night. Entry is free up until 22:00 Wednesday and Thursday, and until 23:00 at the VINTAGE INDUSTRIAL BAR weekend. We’ll see you there!QC‑2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-) This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than 091 393 99 38, www.pepermint-zagreb.com. Open just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some Wed, Thu 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. P ­J ­ friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance A ­G ­X ­W performances, theater acts, film screenings or even liter- ary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with SAX! graffiti and black and white photography, create the This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you here every night and is an especially delicious and wide don’t need to worry about parking because the front en- array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are trance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www. for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss. 20:00 - 05:00, Sun 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. P ­T ­6 ­ QD‑3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, www. E ­B ­X ­W sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. N ­G ­W VINYL A wine and whiskey bar, Vinyl is still finding its feet but has SHOCK SHOW INDUSTRY - D KATRAN - TRIM great potential. Beautifully decorated, with as much vinyl KABINET 5REKOVIĆ adorning the walls as you might expect from the name, it Located in an alleyway in Zagreb’s business district, this has the sense of those classic beatnik venues of the 1950s. grungy bar offers a variety of special events, includ- Food is advertised and there’s live music several nights a ing live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show week.QC‑2, Bogovićeva ulica 3, tel. (+385-1) 238 54 21. Industry, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - ‘Katran,’ by locals. It’s not just a regular club, but part of 24:00. P ­J ­A ­B ­X ­W a cultural association from Bjelovar, which was founded 44 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Nightlife in 1972, with a branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don’t forget to make a reservation ahead of time. QJ‑3, Radnička cesta 27 (door No 17, 2nd floor left), tel. (+385-) 098 58 35 77, www.ssi.com.hr. Open Fri, Sat 24:00 - 06:00. J ­6 ­E ­N ­X ­W

PUBS BIKERS BEER FACTORY Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer.Sounds like a ZZ Top Time Restaurant & Bar Archives clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www. bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. P ­T ­6 ­E ­N ­B ­X ­W

SHERIDAN’S PUB Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond La Bodega Zagreb Archives of your pint of plain then that’s a good thing.QI‑3, Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P ­T ­6 ­ N ­B ­X ­W

MIGHTY FINE WINE BASEMENT This subterranean hideaway is modestly named: its actually a cellar offering an unforgettable wine ex- ploration experience. An exclusive selection of wines from all over the country are complimented by local cheeses, meats and sundries. Offering only Croatian products, the blend of flavors available at excellent prices creates a uniquely unforgettable adventure. QB‑2, Tomićeva 5, tel. (+385-1) 777 45 85, www. basement-bar.net. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. P ­J ­A ­G ­B ­W

LA BODEGA ZAGREB Conveniently located in the heart of the city centre, this is a great spot for drinking some superb wines. This chic and trendy wine bar at night, also offers a breakfast and brunch menu for the early birds to en- joy the sights and sounds one of the most popular street, Bogovićeva.QC‑2, Bogovićeva 5, tel. (+385-) 095 345 34 45, www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­i ­T ­J ­A ­E ­B ­X ­W Johann Franck Archives

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 45 Sightseeing QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, https://zoo.hr/. Octo- ber 1 - 29 Zoo is Open 09:00 - 18:00, ticket office 09:00 - 17:00. October 30 - January 29 Zoo is Open 09:00 - 16:00, ticket office 09:00 - 15:00. Admission 15 - 20kn.

MIROGOJ in the capital city don’t mess around with the hom- age they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Za- greb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful in Europe. Lime-green cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open Archaeological Museum in Zagreb Archives art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the mu- nicipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known ar- chitect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and add- ing a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb.

Medvedgrad, Photo by Dalibor Brlek ST MARK’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MARKA) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of- ESSENTIAL ZAGREB arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for BAN JOSIP JELAČIĆ SQUARE quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters (TRG BANA JOSIPA JELAČIĆA) it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković. after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11. Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s im- STONE GATE (KAMENITA VRATA) age has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 This archway was one of the four original entries into the it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible because leaders found it overly representative of national- fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a ism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly na- that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 tionalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and can- & THE CITY ZOO dles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith. (MAKSIMIRSKI PARK I ZOOLOŠKI VRT) QC‑1, Kamenita bb. A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four- legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, THE CATHEDRAL OF ASSUMPTION OF THE grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as BLESSED VIRGIN MARY clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car en- (KATEDRALA MARIJINA UZNESENJA) gines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t for- entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. get to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 46 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives

1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically 487 30 00, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10 the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious - 20kn. damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised ARTS AND CRAFTS MUSEUM skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to bat- (MUZEJ ZA UMJETNOST I OBRT) tle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC‑1, aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amaz- Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 - 17:00, ing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very Sun 13:00 - 17:00. ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages are available. People with special needs also have guides. TKALČIĆEVA (TKALČIĆEVA STREET) These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting hu- 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - mans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages you to 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out the vibe, 40kn. U read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the sheer number of people wandering around here late into the evening. It CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM provides a unique visual for a city that you’re starting to un- (MUZEJ SUVREMENE UMJETNOSTI) derstand is very unique too!QC‑1, Tkalčićeva. Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a im- pressive building as you pass the Sava River. The col- lection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for MUSEUMS itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IN ZAGREB video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ U ZAGREBU) languages available as well as free wi-fi connection. Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. musings often accompany explanations of the materials, Closed Mon. Tickets 15 - 30kn. U facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 47 Sightseeing

CROATIAN SCHOOL MUSEUM (HRVATSKI ŠKOLSKI MUZEJ) Trace the development of the school system in this part of the world right up to the present day. Fun for educators and kids alike. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 4/1, tel. (+385- 1) 485 57 16, www.hsmuzej.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Ad- mission 10 - 15kn.

DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ MUSEUM (MUZEJ DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ) Photo by Marša Gajinov Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović, the one nicknamed ‘basketball’s Mozart’ is Europe’s greatest ever basketball export. The museum presents winning medals, rewards, personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.QA‑4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www. drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn. U

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to pro- vide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 20kn. U Croatian Institute of History, Dvorišta Archives

MEŠTROVIĆ ATELIER - IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ MU- SEUMS (ATELIJER MEŠTROVIĆ - MUZEJI IVAN ORIS HOUSE OF MEŠTROVIĆ) ARCHITECTURE Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this The Oris House of Architecture is an all-encompassing house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And it hub of architecture, design and art (Multimedia cul- is here where he completed many of his art works and ture centre). It’s a creative meeting place that hosts monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chi- conferences, lectures and seminars dedicated to the cago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, www. arts. There’s a multimedia hall, library, and even a res- mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. taurant with chairs donated by architects from around Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn. the world. QD‑3, Kralja Držislava 3, tel. (+385-1) 377 81 77, www.oris.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - MODERN GALLERY (MODERNA GALERIJA) 21:00. Closed Sun. The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Throughout the autumn period, you’ll find many in- Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, teresting exhibitions: it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, 15.10 - 5.11 » PEZO VON ELLRICHSHAUSEN - sculptors, as well others who work in new media. From NO MORE NO LESS the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious 15.10 - 5.11 » UMBERTO BONOMO - CONTEM- image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and PORARY CHILEAN ARCHITECTURE today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 8.11 - 24.11 » FRANCO ALBINI 10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 55, www.moderna-galerija.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. 30.11 - 8.12 » ZLATKO UGLJEN Admission 30 - 40kn. U 48 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing

MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS (MUZEJ PREKINUTIH VEZA) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innova- tive European Museum.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, www.brokenships.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 30kn.

MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not ap- pear as they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is broken into two floors; hologram pictures dominate the first floor and hands on displays are on the second floor. It’s open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, www.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn. Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus small children).

TECHNICAL MUSEUM NIKOLA TESLA (TEHNIČKI MUZEJ NIKOLA TESLA) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellor- powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnicki-muzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Ad- mission 15 - 20kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

THE CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART (HRVATSKI MUZEJ NAIVNE UMJETNOSTI) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, na- ive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-book- ings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, www.hmnu. hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 15 - 25kn.

THE MIMARA MUSEUM (MUZEJ MIMARA) The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20 people minimum, then a guide is avail- able in English.QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81 00, www.mimara.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 40kn. U facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 49 Sightseeing

ZAGREB CITY MUSEUM Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, www.lauba. (MUZEJ GRADA ZAGREBA) hr. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Ad- With theme music and sprawling city models, this mu- mission 10 - 25kn. U seum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia THE CROATIAN SOCIETY OF ARTISTS as an independent country in the 20th century especially. Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan for an educational experience with the kids. There is also Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popu- a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly lar name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, available in addition to special guides for the blind.QC‑1, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of vi- Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open sual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed the Borovje neighbourhood.QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel. Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, www.hdlu.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. GALLERIES ART PAVILION (UMJETNIČKI PAVILJON) LANDMARKS A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on GRIČ TUNNEL (TUNEL GRIČ) Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all Built during WWII as a shelter, this 350-metre long tunnel kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries was recently opened to the public and is located between of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top. Radićeva and Mesnička Streets in the heart of the city centre. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be orga- A range of cultural events are set to be hosted there whilst in nized, these service does not cost extra.QC‑3, Trg kralja the meantime it is a fine safe-haven if having to escape the Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, www.umjetnicki- hustle and bustle of the city.QB/C‑2, Open 09:00 - 21:00. paviljon.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission varies depending on exhibition. THE CROATIAN STATE ARCHIVES (DRŽAVNI ARHIV) LAUBA – THE HOUSE FOR PEOPLE AND ART On Marulić Square - part of the splendid, architectural- (KUĆA ZA LJUDE I UMJETNOST LAUBA) ly planned Green Horseshoe - stands a grand Art Nou- Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection of veau building - one of the finest piece of architecture 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of in Zagreb. This building now houses the Croatian State the greatest names in recent . Exhibitions change Archive, the home of documentation of state impor- monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH‑3, tance. The Reading Room, which has undergone a full restoration completed at the end of 2004, is particu- larly fine. Guided tours are available in English, German or Croatian at 10:00, 13:00 and 14:00. 20kn per person. QB‑4, Marulićev trg 21, tel. (+385-1) 480 19 99/ (+385-1) 482 92 44, 480 19 21, www.arhiv.hr. Open 08:15 - 15:45, Fri 08:15 - 14:45. Closed Sat, Sun.

THE LOTRŠČAK TOWER AND GRIČ CANNON (KULA LOTRŠČAK I GRIČKI TOP) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ en- campment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion. Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gal- lery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. Photo by Eli Gajinov Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. 50 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing

ZAGREB WELCOMES YOU - MODEL CITY Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts refer- encing the in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holi- days tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpt- ed by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.

CURIOSITIES These places have that unmistakeable air of the bizarre, eclectic and/or funky hanging about them making them a perfect destination.

FUNICULAR Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30 - 22:00. ranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west Italy, THE ALTAR OF ST. ROCCO including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5 B.C. and Sometimes we innocently fail to see the beauty of some- only basics of their language, which is pre-indo-European, thing until we learn about the efforts gone into its creation. are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many celebrities, The altar of St. Rocco which is now placed in the Chapel of is actually more famous for her clothes than her personal St. Rocco and located in the park overlooking the British talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the Square, has survived its own Calvary. It was originally built bandages the mummy was wrapped in are strips of a book in 1755 by city guilds and placed in St. Mark’s Church; it made of linen. This book is the longest preserved text in carried the name the altar of the Holy Trinity, St. John the the Etruscan language and appears to be something simi- Baptist and Evangelist. The quality of altars back then were lar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy is on permanent categorised by colour and their exaggerated baroque display but her bonds are locked away and only revealed decorations. At the time, Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer to experts.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. thought that many altars, though beautiful, were not spiri- tually inspiring and ordered a complete revamp; hence ZAGREB’S SOLAR SYSTEM the altar was subsequently given a new home, new look The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here in and new name. The end of the 19th century saw the altar Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big metal themed with a statue of St. Rocco and a dog carrying a ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course, the sun piece of bread in its mouth. Two centuries later, a fire in - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004 Davor the 1970s destroyed the right side of the altar and after Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this extensive restoration; it was possible to once again see the mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban loca- altar in its original design. QB‑2, St. Rocco Chapel, Rokov tions: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg bana Jo- perivoj. sipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva 21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus ZAGREB MUMMY - Siget 9, Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the Ar- (underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the chaeological Museum. The mummified body from Thebes planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until was bought by Mihael Bari in in 1848-49, which you the last planet was “discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the mummy is to get a feel for the dimensions of the solar system and to Etruscan and had no business being across the Mediter- discover random corners of the city. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 51 Sightseeing

and the art of gastronomy also. It is close to being a ‘home of culture’. The restaurant is certainly special because it is part of this institution and a sense of cultural and respectful communication is felt in every area, both in the exhibition hall, as well as in our Forcimer, and then in Voncimer as well.

ZIYP: In various restaurants we can see different exhi- bitions and occasional guest appearances by various authors, but mostly works on walls, yet in Voncimer there is a small treasure and a permanent exhibition of chairs that can be seen only here. Who are the au- thors of these chairs? How old are they? Where did they come from and which do you like to sit on the most? Andrija Rusan: Voncimer is definitely special for its vari- ety of chairs and armchairs. Naturally, this is not the first time that something like this has happened in a restaurant, but I believe it is quite rare that every chair would have a story, a special value, a known donor, and each donor here is a friend of Oris. Stylistically, the chairs are completely different, they come from different cultures, from all over the world, they are simple, cheap, demanding, and mostly comfortable (not all though ...... ). To me, the chairs by Otto Wagner, Bernardo Bernardi, Zlatko Ugljen are dear to me... each is special, each one of them .

Arge 2, ST 6, Dietmar Steiner ZIYP: Recently, we tried a range of dishes by the new Ukrainian chef who pleasantly surprised us, and with a great new dessert also? In a few words, enlighten us MERGING OF GASTRONOMY on the concept of the cuisine offer at Voncimer, and ARHITECTURE AND ART what would you recommend from the menu? Restaurant Voncimer (see page 28) emerged as the Andrija Rusan: Yes, Konstantin is a great Ukrainian master sheer desire of a group of people who run the Oris House of cooking derived from European culture, behaviour, and of Architecture (Kralja Drzislava 3, city centre, near life. His art and his smile is certainly the wealth of the Von- Meštrović Pavilion also known as Džamija, see page 46) cimer restaurant. Restaurant managers Tetiana and Andrii and were keen on setting up a place which not only pro- form with him the ‘trio fantasticus’ that deserves great at- motes culture and art but also the art of gastronomy. The tention. You will not be sorry if you engage in a thorough project design was created in the architectural studio test of their menu. Start from the top. I find it difficult to named Rusan Architecture. single something out. Ask yourself, your stomach and your body as to what suits you on the day. You might not like The name Voncimer (original German: Wohnzimmer = living everything, but you will certainly enjoy most things. We all room) was chosen because we wanted to be in a space where have our preferences, and that is how the menu was first people feel at home, as in their own living room, dining room created. There is something for everyone. But best of all is .... And it seems that this is how it has been accepted. that you do not have to believe my every word, it is best to see it for yourself. Let me know how it goes! ZIYP: The project itself is interesting as it is located within the Oris House of Architecture. How did the idea of the merging of gastronomy and architecture and art in general come about? What was the guiding principle for the creation of such a restaurant? How was it meant to be unique? Andrija Rusan: Oris the House of Architecture is an as- sociation that has been publishing the Oris magazine for 18 years straight. Recently, we published the centennial edition. We fixed this venue one and a half years ago so that we could maintain and host exhibitions, lectures, pro- motions and presentations, in order to give all interested parties the opportunity to carry out their quality programs. So this is not just a house of architecture, but of all arts, Voncimer Archives 52 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Sightseeing

Photo by Daniela Kos

TRAM NO13 the extensive and lush university meadow with fountains Turing back the clock to 1910, a vivid transformation occurred which use holograms to mark major events and holidays, that would leave a major imprint on the city of Zagreb. Low and in warmer days also serve to refresh. Turning towards and behold, electric trams finally replaced the classical and Savska Street, one moves to a busier and livelier cultural most worthy horse trams that diligently served city folk for part of the city with the Dražen Petrović Museum, many years. A century later, today’s tram network consists of Technical Museum, Mimara Museum, Museum of 116 km of railway coordinated in fifteen day and four night Arts and Crafts, the Croatian National Theatre, Acad- tram lines. emy of Music, and the Gavella Theatre. And then you Amongst these, one tram number is very specific and that is finally arrive to the well-known Ilica Street which is also tram number 13. It was put into operation way back in 1911 one of the longest streets in town (the 4th largest to be and its route consisted of Ban Jelačić Square - Kaptol - Nova exact). In just a few minutes, from perusing the river to Ves - Gupčeva zvijezda - Mirogoj. After a tragic accident on watching people stroll along Ilica Street amongst more October 31, 1954, both the tram line and tram 13 were discon- shops, ice cream parlours and cafes, you reach the inau- tinued. After forty-two years, the tram with the number 13 gural main square. Look to the left, and what time is it? returned to function and rides between Žitnjak to Kvaternik Glance at Ban Jelačić Square, give the Duke on the horse Square today. a salute then move along towards the Lenuci horseshoe So what exactly can be seen on tram 13? Firstly, the line en- and beautiful Zrinjevac Park which boasts a gorgeous compasses 27 stations from beginning till end and the route Bollé fountain. On the right side of the Archaeological passes by some of Zagreb’s major sights, cultural institutions Museum and the Museum of Modern Art sits one of the and locations that you should certainly visit. If you board tram first hotels in Zagreb, the Palace Hotel, which overlooks 13 the entire ride takes approximately an hour from start to the beautiful park and Strossmayer Gallery of Old Mas- finish, depending on traffic of course. ters. Then to the King Tomislav Square aka ‘Tomislavac’ Here at IYP, we can’t help but recommend you start your jour- and its nearby Art Pavilion, from there you get a view of ney from the central station at Ban Jelačić Square and head the main railway station next to which is the historical and towards the direction that interests you most. Decisions… classical Hotel Esplanade, built in 1925 and for the most decisions… If you happen to start from Žitnjak, you’ll pass famous ‘Orient Express’ which ran from Paris to Istanbul through one of the older suburbs of Peščenica, where you and passed through Zagreb. Branimirova Street is next on will find the Church of Blessed Augustine Kažotić which is the agenda and the ‘Branimir Centre’ is located at the in- famous for its contemporary architectural design. Vukovarska tersection with Draškovićeva Street, this is where the first Street is the lengthiest part of the route where you can see production of biscuits and chocolate called ‘UNION’, later the remains of socialist architecture. The intersection with known as ‘Kraš’ used to operate. Did someone just say Držićeva has blocks of residential buildings inspired by the ‘fa- chocolate? Hmmm… Scrumptious! A mere two stations ther of ’ Charles - Edouard Jeanneret further, we arrive at the Croatian Association of Artists - Le Corbusier; a typical example is the residential block Vu- (Meštrović Pavilion) i.e. Džamija (the former mosque). And kovarska 35 - 35a, not to mention state institutions such as two stations thereafter is the final destination, Kvatrić. the Palace of Justice or the Public Open University. The Walk through the market place, sip on coffee, nibble on Lisinski Concert Hall, which is also one of the largest con- cake and enjoy the city life. cert halls in Croatia, was built in 1973 in honour of the great Fun Fact: ZET vehicles run the entire length of the equator Croatian composer Vatroslav Lisinski who wrote the first three fold and on a daily basis. In terms of a yearly scale... Croatian opera, ‘Love and Malice’. Opposite the hall, there is they travel the equivalent of 109 trips to the moon and back! facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 53 Shopping A GOOD OLD VINYL DANCING BEAR CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream. QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, www. dancingbear.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A

DIRTY OLD SHOP The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, t- shirts with cool prints, posters, original figures of charac- ters from favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tratinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, www. dirtyoldempire.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

CROATIAN DESIGN CROATIAN DESIGN SUPERSTORE Totally new concept store bringing the finest in Croatian Ulični Ormar Archives design to the forefront! This pop-up shop includes fashion, gastronomy, kitchen & tableware, decor, jewellery, lighting SHOPPING MALLS and furniture. It’s a fab place to find unique gifts and origi- A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb and nal souvenirs that are designed and produced in Croatia. its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre can be Also, the cafe, which is located within the store, offers reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre and Centar great cups of coffee and refreshing smoothies, cocktails, Cvjetni walking distance from the main square. The bigger craft beers and wines, plus loads of homemade snacks on centres require public transport and include Avenue Mall in a daily basis from 09:00 till 21:00.QD‑2, Martićeva 4, tel. Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre in Lanište, City Centre One West (+385-1) 580 65 65, www.croatiandesignsuperstore. in Jankomir, Point Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. One East in Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava. What else can we say but, ‘shop till you drop’! LINK GALLERY Shop till you drop store packed with hand-made Croa- tian designer products including lamps, unique ceramics, ANTIQUES gifts for kids, jewelry and accessories. And with friendly APARTMAN staff who are happy to tell you a little story behind each Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other unique item, why not bring home that perfect souvenir? So come stuff.QA‑2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96. Open 09:00 - in and take a peek!QC‑1, Radićeva 27, tel. (+385-1) 481 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A 32 94. Open 09:00 - 13:30, 16:00 - 20:00.Sat, Sun Open 10:00 - 15:00. GALERIJA KERUBIN Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds LOVE_ANA of other stuff.QC‑1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98, A recently established fixture in the field of interior design, www.galerijakerubin.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passer- 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A by, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some

54 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Shopping avant-garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and arti- sanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16 76, www.anatevsic.com. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

TAKE ME HOME - CROATIAN DESIGN SHOP The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian souve- nirs and gifts created by over 60 designers. Tote bags and Nicholas Shoes purses with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy daily planners and note- books, plus all sorts of other creative knick-knacks and handmade mementos are all offered to remember your trip by.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www. takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

CLOTHES FASHION BOUTIQUE DORA Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional fam- ily business that has been designing and manufactur- ing beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is known for their quality production and feminine designs. Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 17 63, www.dora-zagreb.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J ­A LAPIDARIUM - ZLATARNA MARIO MARA ETNO BUTIK Looking for a piece of jewelry that’s truly one-of-a-kind A little boutique run by the charming Vesna Milković, who and fits your unique individualized style? Then look no specialises in fashion design incorporating materials and further because Lapidarium offers the perfect solution motifs drawing on Croatian cultural heritage. Her fine lace to your search. Not only do they supply finished jewelry, tops and bags make delightful and unique gifts or sou- but they also allow customers to create their own custom- venirs at sensible prices. Items made to order.QB‑2, Ilica ized pieces for every type of occasion.QC‑1, Radićeva 10, 49, tel. (+385-1) 480 65 11, www.etnobutik-mara.com. www.zlatarna-mario.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A - 15:00. Closed Sun. J ­A

MEDAKOVIĆ JEWELRY Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938, BASHOTA these contemporary and unique pieces were created by Jewellery from two end of the spectrum, choose from goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane Petrića 2, tel. modern and original designs to jewellery which has been (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64 70. Open 09:00 - nurturing the family tradition since 1924. Also at A-2 Ilica 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N 69, tel.(+385-1) 484 69 41. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.QB‑2, Ilica 37, tel. (+385-1) 483 36 23, www.zlatarnica-bashota.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 16:00 SHOES&ACCESORIES - 20:00. Sat Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A A SHOO A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one. JOZEF GJONI Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex. unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With a large QD‑2, Martićeva 19, www.ashoo.net. Open 12:00 - collection of handmade gold and silver antique pieces, as 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned with pre- cious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something BAGATT for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića 10, tel. (+385-1) Located on Praška Street, Bagatt has opened up in Croatia 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.hr. Open 08:00 - for the first time. The Milan based company still maintains 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J ­A a complete blend of tradition and modernity in their shoe facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 55 Shopping

NICHOLAS SHOES The brand Alberto Guardiani is synonym for quality Ital- ian shoes and can now be found at Nicholas Shoe store, in Jurišićeva Street 1. The men’s line includes shoes, sneakers, slippers and sandals that appeal to those who appreciate quality in an elegant, modern and value for money way. For the ladies the women’s collection includes shoes and sneakers with full soles, and with thick heels that last year had recorded its great ‘comeback’ in the fashion world. To complicate your decisions in which shoes to buy, footwear from the Filling Pieces brand is also available, the Amster- dam based company have sent a wave around the world with their crossover mix between high-end fashion shoes and smooth street wear.QD‑2, Jurišićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 481 34 01, www.nicholasshoes.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

STARTS FROM 01/09/2016 DELICATESSEN BONKULOVIĆ DELICACIES Take your pick with their wide range of world famous deli- cacies.QI‑2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07 89, www.bonkulovic.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Praška Street 10 ČAJOTEKA Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure teahouse in town that we know of.QD‑2, Iblerov trg 10 (Impor- tanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, www.cajoteka.com/. line production. The décor is second to none and Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A matches all the glamour found in any of their world- wide stores. New models are always released and CROP STORE stay in tune with all the latest in fashion trends!QC‑2, Crop Store is a great place to call into if you’re hunting for Praška 10, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 24, www.bagatt.it. Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart or Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything from 16:00. artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truffles and honey. If we were to list everything then we’d still be typ- BOROVO ing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank us later.QC‑1, Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and Tkalčićeva 28, www.crop.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. exports new collections as well as redesigned classics Grandma Lavender - dolls stuffed with lavender made from pieces such as the already popular Startas which happens to of traditional fabrics, Take Me Home Croatian Design Shop Archives be celebrating its 40th anniversary. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QC‑2, Preradovićeva 16, tel. (+385-1) 485 45 52, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

CROATA Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more special. Also at Kaptol 13, Av. Dubrovnik 16 (shopping center Avenue Mall), Vice Vukova 6 (shopping center Arena).QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Ok- togon), tel. (+385-) 645 70 52, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A 56 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Shopping

GALERIJA KULIN GALOVIĆ Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat). It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457 20 05, www.kulingalovic. com/. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J ­A

GAVRILOVIĆ A food gallery, specialising in various meats. A tradition beginning in the 19th Century, this is a favourite of the locals in spite of its expense. Famous for their pates, kulen (spiced Slavonian meat) and various other dried meat.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 56 03, www.gavrilovic.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. J ­A

KREDENCA GIFT SHOP Bring home a small part of Croatia with authentic prod- ucts manufactured from all four corners of the country. This cute store has something for everyone including liqueurs, rakija (for tasting), olive oil, honey, jam, wines, natural cosmetics, jewellery, souvenirs, decorative ob- jects made of ceramic and Murano glass and more.QC‑1, Radićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 278 20 40/(+385-1) 562 65 79; (+385-) 091 544 72 94, www.kredenca.com. Open 08:30 - 21:30. A

KUĆA ZELENOG ČAJA A teahouse selling dozens of aromatised black, green, white, herbal, fruit and rooibos teas.QB‑2, Ilica 14 (Pas- QUIRKY STORES sage Lovački rog), tel. (+385-1) 483 06 67, www. BLOSSOM & BLOOM kucazelenogcaja.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - Inspired by an incompatible love for flowers, this is one flo- 16:00. Closed Sun. J ­A rist gallery that tailors entire bouquets and gift packages according to your needs. They merge carefully picked and NATURA CROATICA only the finest roses with elegant design creations and A lovely little shop selling a specialist selection handmade boxes. From chocolates to champagne and of rakije and other Croatian delicacies.QC‑3, Pe- macaroons, surprise a loved one with a memorable gift tra Preradovića 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 50 76, www. from Blossom. They deliver too!QB‑2, Gundulićeva 5, naturacroatica.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 tel. (+385-1) 467 85 08, www.blossom-bloom.hr. Open - 16:00. Closed Sun. A 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J

PINKLEC DELICIJA HYSTERIA Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, ol- MAKS studio has for years been the place where artists and ive oils, truffels are offered along with most any other designers could come together to share their creations and palatte-pleasing product. Delight the senses with some creative solutions. After collaborating together for so long, cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence.QE‑2, MAKS studio designer Saša Maksimiljanović, decided that Martićeva 14c, tel. (+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 - the next logical step would be to open a store where all 21:00. Closed Sun. A their brands could come together in one place. The location now has an entire range of different brands, includ- SPICE UP ing MAKS studio, Naša posla, Gooma brand, bi.bi jewelery/ This Indian retail features a great selection of high-qual- watches, Gorana Gulišija, Dinići Đenka Ivanišević, Cabinet.K, ity merchandise of fresh spices, gourmet food, Indian Vrecha & Co.QC‑2, Teslina 9 (In the yard), tel. (+385-1) 481 tea varieties, basmati rice, lentils, cosmetics and many 06 06. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. other grocery products through to personal care, ap- parel and more. It’s a small store but packed with good- JASMINA I LUTKICE ies for a taste of curry in a hurry!QD-3, Mrazovićeva 9, A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and tel. (+385-1) 457 91 90, www.spiceup.eu. Open 09:00 stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 57 73. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 57 Shopping

KLOTO book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1, Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - Lolita and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 15:00. Closed Sun. N 26 59, www.udrugakloto.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A STRIPOVI NA KVADRAT An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as PROSTOR MANUFAKTURNE SLOBODE (PMS) the best known English editions are hot off the press here. An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61. gifts are also available and their website is updated with Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385- 1) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat ROBA STORE 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well chosen assortment of European fashion brands.QC‑3, Pe- tra Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 46 81, www.roba. 5 MUSEUM SHOP FINDS com.hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM SHOP Sun. Take home a piece of history with you today from the museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, SAŠA ŠEKORANJA GALLERY tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many, many Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in more.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1) Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions, 487 31 01, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. A

ART SHOP KLOVIĆEVI DVORI Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of an artist.QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A

HNK ART SHOP Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find T-shirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, www.hnk. Kaplja Raincoat, Cerovečki Archives hr. Usually operates every evening when there are shows on. A

MSU SHOP A great choice of books and works by Croatian and in- ternational designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 58, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

MUO SHOP Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of Arts and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, www.muo.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Istra square, Arena Centar Archives Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A

Coral necklace, Bashota Archives

58 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2, To- Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) mićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, info@takemehome. 492 65 00, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - hr, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00 10:00 - 15:00 GIFTS VINTAGE

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Fashion Boutique DoraQC-1, Kamenita 2, tel. Spice UpQD-3, Mrazovićeva 9, tel. (+385-1) 457 91 (+385-1) 485 17 63, [email protected], www. 90, [email protected], www.spiceup.eu. dora-zagreb.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00 - 14:00 CLOTHES FOOD

3 4 Shopping 01.10 - 08.10 » VINTAGE FESTIVAL Welcome to a unique blend of 1940s, 50s and 60s music, fashion, film, art, dance and design with pin ups, barbers, jive, lindy hop, a vintage market, old-timers, vespas, and a whole lot more. Step back in time to a golden era with plenty of ‘shake, rattle and roll’.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

10.11 - 12.11» PSSST! THE 10TH FESTIVAL OF Entrance hall, Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Archives SILENT FILM See film through a different light, this is where the audio background of a film is removed and the organisers pro- vide a alternative sound accompaniment. Modern day film makers and amateur enthusiasts are more than welcome to contribute. In addition, see masterpieces of the silent film genre as well as contemporary works. Pssst! Remem- ber, shhh!QH‑4, Centar za kulturu Trešnjevka, Park Stara Trešnjevka 1, www.festivalnijemogfilma.com. MORE STYLE FOR LESS CASH

BRITANSKI TRG ANTIQUE MARKET Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the Senti Mental Bikes, Vintage Zagreb Festival Archives antique market is bursting with flair and excitement. Here you will find various decorative things, old books and collectables of both local and interna- VINTAGE ZAGREB tional origin. Located in the very heart of the city, the Are you one who fancies fashion, music, film, dance, and market is a real cultural treat for all fans of antiquity. even the interiors of the 1920s, 30s, 40s, 50s or 60s? Then QA‑2, Britanski trg. prepare to step back in time as many of the city’s events, museums, shops, cafes and restaurants are about to revive HRELIĆ (JAKUŠEVAC) FLEA MARKET the good old days. Early October is when the ‘Vintage Festi- You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter val’ opens whilst in November, ‘Silent Black and White films’ brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea will be screened. And by November 20, the Ethnographic market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam Museum will host the exhibition,‘ A Handful of Beards’. All packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes, lovers of vintage vehicles will enjoy the to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s Museum of cars, whilst fans of fashion and accessories sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the should not miss Ulični Ormar (Street Wardrobe). In terms of time to relish some of the authentic local food and food and sensing the spirit of past times in the culinary scene meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave of Zagreb, we recommend a visit to Hemingway Bar & Bistrot by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch (see page 28) which in some way reflects the atmosphere of the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is Parisian bistros. Sip on coffee or tea at Finjak (see page 38), available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For or indulge your sweet tooth at the Hotel Palace. Last but not more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, least, we also recommend an evening beverage at the Espla- Jakuševac. nade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail bar. ULIČNI ORMAR 02.09 - 20.11 » A HANDFUL OF BEARD The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and If Ned Kelly was alive, he’d be a star in Zagreb with this this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and extraordinary tribute to male beards. FYI, long beards used retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s pure- to represent power and wealth, and a moustache heroism ly vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs. and courage. This exhibit portrays the myths behind the Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walk- history of beards, it traces back to the interior appearance ing distance from the main square, come and enjoy of old Zagreb barber shops as they were in the late 19th the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece. century and throughout the 20th century. See how shav- QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00. ing was once practiced.QB‑3, Ethnographic Museum, Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr. From 50kn. J ­A ­6 Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. 60 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Hotels Since Zagreb is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no sur- prise that there is a wide range of accommodation options from hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private accom- modation of different categories and prices. While on the go, where to snooze is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town which are extremely clean and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of the interior. Private accommodation with apartments and flats are always in demand while the hotel offer now includes an emergence of classy boutique hotels. Detailed information in reference to all types of ac- commodation is available on the web site and at the Tourist Information Centres. All in all, there’s something for every- one’s pocket!

5 STARS ESPLANADE ZAGREB HOTEL QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+385- 1) 456 60 20, [email protected], www.esplanade.hr. 208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €120 - 229, 48 Deluxe Rooms €140 - 229, 13 Deluxe Suite €220 - 309, 1 Presidential Suite €1900). P ­T ­J ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­I ­F ­L ­E ­G ­ B­K­D­W hhhhh

SHERATON ZAGREB HOTEL QD‑3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+385-1) 455 30 35, [email protected], www.hotel- sheratonzagreb.com. 306 rooms (254 singles €105 - 135, 254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 270, 23 Junior Suites €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 - 1500). P­i ­J ­H ­ A ­R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­D ­X ­Cw ­ ­W h h h h h

THE WESTIN ZAGREB QA‑3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00, fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, [email protected], www. hotelwestinzagreb.com. 349 rooms (308 doubles €125 - 170, 19 Westin Guest Office Suites €175 - 220, 1 Presidential Suite €1500, 19 Executive Suites €260 - 310, 2 Delux Suites €560 - 592). P ­Z ­O ­T ­J ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­ B ­K ­D ­X ­Cw ­ ­W h h h h h

4 STARS ARCOTEL ALLEGRA QD‑4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax (+385-1) 469 60 96, [email protected], www.arcotelhotels. com/en. 151 rooms (38 singles €170, 103 doubles €185, 4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260, 2 Rooms for disabled €170). P ­J ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­I ­F ­L ­E ­G ­B ­K ­D ­ S­w­W hhhh

BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL ASTORIA QC‑2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+385-1) 480 89 08, [email protected], www.hotelastoria.hr. 100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244, 28 King €93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 - 150, 4 Su- perior Executive €164 - 187). P ­T ­H ­A ­R ­U ­L ­G ­ K­W hhhh facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 61 Hotels PALACE HOSTEL ARENA QC‑3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00, fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, [email protected], www. QH‑5, Remetinečki gaj 28, tel. (+385-1) 642 19 50, palace.hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles fax (+385-1) 642 96 46, [email protected], www. €115 - 125, 3 suites €250 - 255, 2 Junior Suites €180 - nazor.hr/hostel-arena-zagreb. 261 dorm beds, 140 185). P­i ­T ­J ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­Kw ­ ­W - 190kn per person. P ­H ­A ­L ­G ­B ­K ­X ­W hhhh MOUNTAIN HIGH 3 STARS APARTMENT HOUSE SNJEŽNA KRALJICA CENTRAL Qoutskirts, Sljeme 4, Stubičke Toplice, tel. (+385-1) 460 45 55, QD/C‑4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax fax (+385-1) 642 93 63, www.sljeme.hr. 17 rooms (16 4-bed- (+385-1) 484 01 03, [email protected], www.hotel- ded apartment €90, 1 8-bedded apartment €155). P ­T ­ central.hr. 69 rooms (24 singles €68 - 80, 39 doubles H ­A ­6 ­U ­I ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­D ­C ­W h h h h €75 - 95, 6 triples €93 - 107). P­i ­O ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­L ­W hhh TOMISLAVOV DOM QSljemenska cesta 24, tel. (+385-1) 456 04 00, fax JADRAN (+385-1) 456 04 01, www.sljeme.hr. doubles €56. i­T­ QD‑2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) H ­A ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­D ­Cw ­ ­W h h h 461 21 51, [email protected], www.hup-zagreb. com. 49 rooms (24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples €98). P­i ­J ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­L ­G ­K ­W h h h SHORT TERM RENTAL EVISTAS JÄGERHORN QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/(+385- QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483 ) 091 533 70 96, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, www.evistas.hr. 35 73, [email protected], www.hotel-jagerhorn. 21 rooms (6 singles €35 - 45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125, €59 - 63, 7 apartments €49 - 105). P ­A ­L ­G 2 apartments €159). P­i ­J ­A ­L ­G ­B ­K ­W h h h INZAGREB Qtel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, www.inzagreb.com. 10 AROUND THE AIRPORT apartments (10 apartments €59 - €95) P ­Z ­T ­A ­ ARISTOS R ­6 ­U ­F ­G ­B ­C ­W QJ‑6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax (+385-1) 669 59 02, [email protected], www. DESIGN APARTMENTS SVIMI hotel-aristos.hr. 150 rooms (5 singles €78 - 150, QE‑2, Fra Grge Martića 35, tel. (+385-) 098 35 14 11, 134 doubles €84 - 160, 7 triples €130 - 190, 3 suites www.designapartmentszagreb.com. 5 apartments €190 - 240, 1 Presidential Suite €350 - 460). P­i­ (5 apartments €60 - €100). P ­T ­A ­­U ­­G ­W H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­D ­X ­Sw ­ ­W hhhh APARTMENTS DOWNTOWN QD‑3, Draškovićeva 40, tel. (+385-) 095 170 07 00, BEST WESTERN HOTEL STELLA www.dtapartments-zagreb.com. 3 apartments QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091 (3 apartments €35 - €70 ). P ­T ­A ­­U ­­G ­W 636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, info@hotel-stella. hr, www.hotel-stella.hr. 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76, SYMBOL KEY 41 doubles €100 - 114, 2 triples €128, 1 suite €141). P ­A ­U ­L ­G ­W h h h P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted OUT OF TOWN O Casino H Conference facilities T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled HOTEL PHOENIX Qoutskirts, Sesvetska cesta 29, tel. (+385-1) 200 63 33, F Fitness centre L Guarded parking fax (+385-1) 202 70 92, www.hotelphoenix.hr. 55 rooms R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly (24 singles €98, 26 doubles €123, 5 triples €148). P ­Z ­ i ­T ­H ­A ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­D ­C ­W h h h h K Restaurant J Old town location D Sauna C Swimming pool QG‑3, Zagrebačka cesta 211, tel. (+385-1) 386 27 77, I Fireplace W Wifi www.hotelvienna.hr. doubles €70. P­i ­A ­R ­G ­ B Outside seating B­W hhh 62 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Directory

formation about specific lawyers that specialise in the ser- BUSINESS CONNECTIONS vices you need.QB‑4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616 AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 52 00, [email protected], www.hok-cba.hr. Open QE‑4, Strojarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77, fax (+385-1) 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 483 67 76, [email protected], www.amcham.hr. Open 08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TAX CROATIAN CHAMBER OF ECONOMY Freephone info: 0800-1852QB‑3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel. VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most (+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@ goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Em- Sun. ployers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their FINA - THE FINANCE AGENCY incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is Call centre tel. 0800 0080QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70, determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, [email protected], www.fina.hr. Open to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. 11 000kn and 40% for a net income higher than 13 200kn. Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law MINISTRY OF ECONOMY, LABOUR AND ENTRE- determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an PRENEURSHIP amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable; QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11, Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contribu- [email protected], www.mingorp.hr. Open 08:30 - tions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum startup capital for a limited liability company is the coun- ter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits LAWYERS the capital into a temporary account with an authorized HRVATSKA ODVJETNIČKA KOMORA (CROATIAN business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered BAR ASSOCIATION) business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not al- regular company accounts. lowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for in- facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 63 Directory

BUNDEK PLAYGROUND (BUNDEK) NOTARIES Ride a bike, go for a walk, rollerblade, play Frisbee, or sim- HRVATSKA JAVNOBILJEŽNIČKA KOMORA ply hanging out with friends… No matter what you prefer, Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country: this is a park for small and big children alike and everyone there is a primary association that you have to go through. can find something for themselves. The kid’s swings are a QD‑2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1) winner!QJ‑4. 455 15 44, [email protected], www.hjk.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. THE CROATIAN NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (HRVATSKI PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ) Taxidermy dominates and some of it is larger than a jar LANGUAGE SCHOOLS can hold - spiders, bugs, lions, vultures, rocks and much BERLITZ more. Children love this place especially, for it has all the Language lessons and business workshops set up for com- creatures of the wild in it, only these aren’t capable of dis- panies with verified innovative methods and standardised membering passers-by.QB‑1, Demetrova 1, tel. (+385-1) programs.QC‑2, Ilica 44, tel. (+385-1) 481 21 16, berlitz- 48 5 17 00, www.hpm.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 [email protected], www.berlitz.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00 and Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Mon. Admission 15 - 20kn.

LANGUAGE SPOT MOZGAONICA QK‑3, Heinzelova 60, tel. (+385-1) 461 80 05, info@ The latest educational craze to hit town is ‘Mozgaonica’, a languagespot.hr, www.languagespot.hr. Open 09:00 - discovery centre for children and teenagers who are given 13:00. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun. real life challenges through play type activities and more. Knowledge, problem solving, critical thinking and analys- ing! A true WOW factor and kids can enrol in programmes PHARMACY 0-24 or visit any time for fun. Team building as well as birthdays CENTRAL PHARMACY can be reserved! Think out loud and be proud! QK‑3, QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98. Zavrtnica 17 (Enter from Podaupska ulica), tel. (+385-1) DUBRAVA 799 96 09/(+385-) 91 942 20 07, mozgaonica.hr. Open QL‑2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50. 09:00 - 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn. Family ticket 100kn. ILICA QG‑3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21. TECHNICAL MUSEUM NIKOLA TESLA OZALJSKA (TEHNIČKI MUZEJ NIKOLA TESLA) QH‑3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86. Science is fun. Eyes will be wide with wonder as they en- SIGET counter really cool space and train displays. Parents, brush QI‑5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25. up on your physics before taking the crew here: your memory will be pushed to its limit and don’t even think about making it up - they see right through you.QA‑4, POST Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tehnicki- CENTRAL POST OFFICE muzej.hr. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. QD‑4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@ Closed Mon. Admission 15-20kn. Planetarium admis- posta.hr, www.posta.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00. sion 15kn.

ZAGREB FOR CHILDREN In most every human population it’s likely that a percent- age of them will be children. Zagreb is no exception to this rule and as such, we thought it might be helpful for us to list places these strange creations are big fans of.

BOĆARSKI DOM PLAYGROUND (BOĆARSKI DOM) If the never-ending line of playground equipment weren’t enough to get your juices flowing, the halfpipe at the river’s edge will make you wish you packed your skateboard. From Trg bana Josipa Jelačića take N°17 west (Prečko) or 14 (Zapruđe) and get off at the Prisavlje stop. From there cross the street and walk a few hundred metres east on Prisavlje ulica. The playground is on your right.QI‑4, Prisavlje 2. Mozgaonica Archives 64 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Street register

29. X. 1918. C-1 Gundulićeva B-3 Lepušićeva E-3 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Habdelićeva C-1 Lisinskog B-1 Amruševa C-2 Harmica C-2 Lopašićeva E-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 Hochmanova A-3 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 A. Heinza E-1 Hrvojeva E-3 Margaretska C-2 Andrije Žaje A-3 Ilica A-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Antuna Bauera E-3 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Markovićev trg B-1 Arnoldova A-2 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Martićeva D-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Marulićev trg B-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Jagićeva A-3 Masarykova B-2 Bakačeva C-2 Janka Draškovića D-3 Matičina C-3 Barčićeva E-2 Jezuitski trg C-1 Matoševa B-1 Baruna Trenka C-3 Jukićeva A-3 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Basaričekova C-1 Jurišićeva C-2 Medulićeva B-3 Bednjanska B-4 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Mesnička B-2 Berislavićeva C-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Basement Archives Biankinijeva E-2 Kačićeva A-3 Miklouševa C-1 Bogovićeva C-2 Kamaufova E-2 Mikulićeva E-1 Božidara Adžije A-3 Kamenita C-1 Miramarska C-4 Ribnjak C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Branjugova D-2 Kaptol C-1 Mletačka B-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Brešćenskoga E-2 Kapucinske stube B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Rokova A-2 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Britanski trg A-2 Katančićeva C-3 Mrazovićeva D-3 Rubetićeva D-1 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Brozova A-4 Katarinin trg C-1 Nikole Tesle C-2 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Trg Maršala Tita B-3 Buconjićeva A-2 Klaićeva A-3 Novakova D-1 Runjaninova B-4 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Bulatova A-2 Kneza Borne D-3 Opatička C-1 Šalata D-1 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Bulićeva E-2 Kneza Branimira D-4 Opatovina C-1 Savska cesta A-4 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Čačkovićeva E-1 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Palmotićeva D-3 Schlosserove stube D-2 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Kneza Mislava D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Širolina E-3 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Čirilometodska C-1 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Park Ribnjak D-1 Skalinska C-1 Trpimirova D-4 Crnatkova A-4 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Paromlinska C-4 Smičiklasova D-2 Tuškanac B-1 Dalmatinska B-2 Koranska B-4 Patačićkina D-2 Splavnica C-2 Tvrtkova E-3 Degenova C-1 Kordunska A-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Stančićeva E-3 Unska B-4 Demetrova B-1 Koturaška A-4 Pavla Šubića E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Varšavska B-2 Dežmanova B-2 Kovačića Ante C-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Streljačka B-1 Vinkovićeva C-1 Domagojeva D-4 Kozarčeva A-1 Perkovčeva B-3 Strojarska E-4 Visoka B-1 Đorđićeva D-2 Kotarska C-1 Petrinjska C-2 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Vitezovićeva C-1 Dubravkin put B-1 Kralja Držislava D-3 Petrova E-1 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Pierottijeva A-3 Svačićev trg C-3 Vlaška D-2 Erdödyeva E-3 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Pod zidom C-2 Švearova E-3 Voćarska cesta E-1 Felbingerove stube C-1 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Posilovićeva E-1 Brezovačkoga B-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Praška C-2 Tkalčićeva C-1 Vodnikova B-4 Frane Petrića C-2 Kršnjavoga A-3 Preobražanska C-2 Tomašićeva E-2 Vojnovićeva E-2 Franje Račkog D-2 Krutićeva E-3 Preradovićeva C-3 Tomićeva B-2 Vončininova D-1 Frankopanska B-3 C-2 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Tratinska A-4 Vramčeva D-1 Froudeova B-1 Kumičićeva C-4 Primorska A-2 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Vranicanijeva B-1 Golubovac B-1 Kurelčeva D-2 Radićeva C-1 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Grič B-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Weberova C-1 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Laginjina E-2 Radnički dol A-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

ZAGREBAČKI HOLDING PODRUŽNICA MREŽA DNEVNIH TRAMVAJSKIH LINIJA ZAGREBAČKI ELEKTRIČNI TRAMVAJ Služba komunikacija i marketinga KONTAKT CENTAR ZET-a Informacije: 060 100 001* REGULAR TRAM SERVICES Sugestije i pritužbe: 0800 200 060 www.zet.hr *poziv na broj 060 100 001 iz fiksne mreže:1,16 kn/min, GračanskeGrač. stube MihaljevacGračani iz mobilne 2,36 kn/min (PDV je uračunat). 15 15 Operator: HT d.d., Savska cesta 32, Zagreb MIHALJEVAC 8 DOLJE 14 Jandrićeva Radićevo šetalište JANDRIĆEVA MEDVEŠČAK Gupčeva zvijezda Belostenčeva BRITANSKI TRG Grškovićeva MANDALIČINA KVATERNIKOV ončinina V Petrova TRG MašićevaJordanovacBukovačkaHondlovaRavnice Ljubijska KapucinskaGrižanskaDankovečkaČulinečkaAleja javoraPoljanice IV uđmana KAPTOL RIBNJAK ULICA 4 . T VLAŠKA DUBRAVA 11 . F USPINJAČA TRG BANA 12 DUBEC Sveti DuhMandaličina Slovenska rg dr Britanski trg Frankopanska 7 T J.JELAČIĆA Draškovićeva 5 MAKSIMIR DUBRAVA 6 6 11 1214 8 4 MAKSIMIRSKA ILICA ILICA 11 11 13 HEINZELOVA 1 MAKSIMIRSKA 2 17 Trg hrv. ČRNOMEREC 12 velikana Tržnica RELJKOVIĆEVA 13 Kvatrić 14 RAČKOGA ŠUBIĆEVA TRAMVAJSKE LINIJE Talovčeva Frankopan. PRAŠKA DRAŠKOVIĆEVA Trg žrtava uškanova SVETICE TRAM ROUTES FRANKOPANSKA TRG Klinika fašizma ŠubićevaT HeinzelovaŠulekova HarambašićevaSvetice ZAPADNI MAŽURANIĆA za 1 ULICA 1 1 traumat. KOLODVOR Rooseveltov 17 KRALJA 17 1 ZAPADNI KOLODVOR - BORONGAJ trg ULICA 9 ZVONIMIRA 9 Zrinjevac KNEZA 13 ČRNOMEREC - SAVIŠĆE Jagićeva MISLAVA BORONGAJ 2 Vodnikova LJUBLJANICA - SAVIŠĆE Adžijina JUKIĆEVA Sheraton 3 SAVSKA GLAVNI 7 5 SAVSKI MOST - DUBEC KOLODVOR Branimir. 4 Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV 13 Branimir. trž. odnikova PREČKO - MAKSIMIR V Botan. 6 ULICA 6 5 vrt 4 KNEZA 8 MIHANOVIĆEVA 2 BRANIMIRA 2 6 ČRNOMEREC - SOPOT rešnjevački trg 9 Selska NehajskaT ehnički BadalićevaT 12 13 17 14 4 9 SAVSKI MOST - DUBRAVA 12 m. Branimirova 7 9 OZALJSKA TRATINSKA AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE 3 8 2 8 6 7 5 LJUBLJANICA Stud. centar 9 LJUBLJANICA - BORONGAJ AVENIJA MARINA SAVSKA ČRNOMEREC - DUBEC DRŽIĆA 11

rbik LJUBLJANICA - DUBRAVA V Sveučilišna MiramarskaLisinski Kruge Strojarska Držićeva 12 OlipskaRadničkaHeinzelovaDonjeIvanićgradska SveticeFerenščica ULICA aleja 5 ŽITNJAK - KVATERNIKOV TRG Zagrepčanka GRADA 13 13 VUKOVARA 3 13 3 Getaldićeva MIHALJEVAC - ZAPRUĐE 2 14 Čavićeva Učiteljski fakultet 15 MIHALJEVAC - DOLJE 13 17 PREČKO - BORONGAJ 5 1714 4 ULICA Vjesnik Slavonska GRADA ŽITNJAK GOSPIĆA AVENIJA Elka Prisavlje MARINA DRŽIĆA Munja L E G E N D A / L E G E N D Veslačka Folnegovićevo Zagrebački naselje TRAM st. u oba smjera 8 6 7 transporti TRAM stop - both directions SlavenskogaM. RadevPetrovaradinskaRudeškaJarun Stud.dom StaglišćeSrednjaciHorvatiKnežija "S.Radić” Borovje 2 TRAM st. u jednom smjeru 5 3 SAVIŠĆE TRAM stop - one direction 17 4 SAVSKI MOST Most mladosti Autobusni terminali HORVAĆANSKA BUS terminal PREČKO 7 HORVAĆANSKA Naziv ulice Street name Muzej suvremeneSOPOT rnsko elesajam Središće Utrina 8 Arena Zagreb Savski gajT V umjetnosti6 AVENIJA 7 ZAPRUĐE DUBROVNIK 14 14

LINIJE BROJ 1, 3 I 8 NE PROMETUJU SUBOTOM, NEDJELJOM I BLAGDANOM. 29.10.2014. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocketROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS. Autumn 2016 65

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr