Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Zagreb Autumn 2016 Street Art Creative works of freedom Vintage Zagreb Golden oldies depicting a former era Film Festivals A must visit to escape those rainy days N°85 - complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com #FEELZADAR last minute booking app zadar travel mobile app ZADAR TOURIST BOARD PHONE: +385 23 316 166 / MAIL: [email protected] / WEB: WWW.ZADAR.TRAVEL Contents ESSENTIAL CIT Y GUIDES Foreword 4 Sightseeing 44 A word of welcome Snap, camera, action Arrival & Getting Around 6 Shopping 52 We unravel the A to Z of travel Ready for a shopping spree Zagreb Basics 10 Hotels 59 All the things you need to know about Zagreb The true meaning of “Do not disturb” Culture & Events 11 Directory 61 Let’s fill up that social calendar of yours Services you just may need Street Art 18 List of Small Features Murals, graffiti... Autumn Flavours 32 Merging of Gastronomy, Architecture & Art 50 Restaurants 26 City Centre Shopping 57 Lunch or dinner, you pick Vintage Zagreb 58 Local Flavour 32 Maps & Index Keep tradition with cuisine Street Register 63 Coffee & Cakes 38 Transport Map 63 What a pleasure City Centre Map 64-65 City Map 66 Nightlife 40 Bop ‘till you drop Pin Up Girls, Vintage Zagreb Festival Archives “Are you one who fancies fashion, music, film, dance and even the interiors of the 1920s, 30s, 40s, 50s or 60s? Than see page 58. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Autumn 2016 5 Foreword Autumn is well and truly upon us and so are the reddish and brownish leaves which cover city parks as kids rattle, kick and throw bundles and bundles of leaves in the air. Publisher And don’t forget, this time of year offers many reasons to Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732 head out before the major cold zips in. To enrich your calendar, do see the exhibitions, concerts, special events... Company Office & Accounts and a series of jazz concerts to make you jazzily jovial. In Višnja Arambašić this issue you can expect an interesting story about street Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 art with interviews by leading street art artists whose [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com works are changing vistas of rundown buildings and in Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o. some way communicate more than just a picture to pas- Printed by Kerschoffset d.o.o., published 4 times per year sers-by. Also, for all lovers of the past, ‘Vintage’ is the key Editorial adjective in this edition with a tribute to Vintage Zagreb Editor Višnja Arambašić and the festival with the same name, not to mention the Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Festival of Silent Film that you can visit this Autumn. We Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola will also look at other places in Zagreb that exude a vin- Badovinac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac tage vibe and take you to a different time. So as you ven- Assistant Editor Blanka Valić ture out, discover some of the city’s hidden treasures and Community Manager Eli Gajinov Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife btw, feel free to send us any Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Design Bojan - Haron Markičević feedback on our IYP Guide Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated so that we can make it even Zagreb Cover © Višnja Aramabšić, “Tribe” a mural by Artez Autumn 2016 Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević better… Support Sales Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov, Kristina Štimac Copyright notice COVER Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps Street Art Creative works of copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub- STORY freedom Vintage Zagreb lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts Golden oldies depicting a former era for the purpose of review, without written permission from the romantic legends “Tribe” a mural by Artez, at Film Festivals publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket A must visit to escape Zagreb’s Student Centre. More those rainy days is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, about Zagreb’s street art and Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb In Your Pocket N°85 - complimentary copy the artists responisble on zagreb.inyourpocket.com is not responsible for any information which might change after page 18. publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt. ABOUT IYP In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading pub- lisher of locally-produced city guides sin- ESTONIA ce 1992, recently launched a brand new LATVIA RUSSIA smartphone app: In Your Pocket City NORTHERN LITHUANIA IRELAND Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked IRELAND BELARUS NETHERLANDS POLAND venues and sights alongside essential GERMANY UKRAINE travel information, these city guides BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC have been carefully crafted by our lo- AUSTRIA HUNGARY cal editors and include only the places SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA SLOVENIACROATIA ITALY they are happy to recommend. The BOSNIA SERBIA BULGARIA MONTENEGRO app - available on both iOS and Android FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA - is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/ GREECE app on your smartphone to download it. DUTCH To keep up with all that’s new at In Your CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook. com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). 6 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Around ZAGREB INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT (MEĐUNARODNA ZRAČNA LUKA ZAGREB (MZLZ)) QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb- airport.hr. The bus and train stations are not directly in close proximity to one another but are within a 10 minute easy walk or a 2-4 minute drive by car. BY BUS The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed by someone with at least a minor command of English. Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange (mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to the right of the main hall for 5kn/ hr unless your bag weighs over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets are located up the small staircase to the left of the main hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the station entrance the centre is to your left View from the Zagreb 360° - Zagreb eye observation deck, and behind you. For proponents of public transportation a Photo by Višnja Arambašić tram is your best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6 towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg BY PLANE bana Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town. 50kn to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both is well connected with buses which are linked to all major domestic and international arrival and departure areas are cities in Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - capital range from 26-77kn. 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Informa- tion Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. MAIN BUS STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR) Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from QE-4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, the post office have a baby changing room, but do note www.akz.hr. that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Air- port, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recom- mend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 Photo by Višnja Arambašić local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from. 8 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com Arrival & Getting Around BY TRAIN Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very user- friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left00 cor- 100 ner.