MARK YOUR MAPS WITH THE BEST OF MARKETS * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb LIMITED EDITION INSTAGRAM* FREE COPY Zagreb in full color No. 06 SEPTEMBER ast month, Zagreb was abruptly left without Dolac. 2015. LFor one week, stalls and vendors migrated to Ban Jelačić Square, only to move back to their original place, but now repaved, refurbished and in full color again. The Z ‘misplaced’ Dolac was a unique opportunity to be remind- on Facebook ed of what things were like half a century ago. This month 64-second kiss there is another time-travel experience on Jelačić Square: on the world’s Vintage Festival in the Johann Franck cafe, taking us shortest funic- back to the 50s and 60s. Read more about it in this issue... ular ride The world’s shortest funicular was steam-powered Talkabout until 1934. The lower stop on Croatia Tomićeva Street GRIČ-BIT IS BACK! connects with the upper stop on The fifth edition of the the Strossmayer best street festival kicks promenade, off on the first day of in front of the ANJA MUTIĆ fall, joining forces with Lotršćak Tower. Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New the ‘At the Upper Town’ As the Zagreb York Magazine and The Washington Post. Follow her at @everthenomad initiative and showcas- oldest means of public transport, ing Device_art work- the funicular shops and exhibitions began operating Sweet hosted by Space Festival only a year and the Klovićevi Dvori before the horse- gallery. All this topped drawn tram. It has kept its original September with concerts – the first look until today, headliner is TBF from which makes it a used to find the month of Split. #GornjiGrad protected cultural I September a tad sad. It meant EUROBASKET PLAYS monument. The the end of summer, the ceasing of AGAIN IN ZAGREB. funicular runs every ten min- careless play, time to get serious. And it’s the first time utes. A regular School starts again, the shops fill since the Dražen Petro- one-way ticket with sweaters and winter feels vić team won the Euro- costs 4KN; an nearly here. But I’ve had a change pean gold. Dario Šarić, emergency ride is of heart. Perhaps because I spent Bojan Bogdanović and 20KN. the last couple of Septembers in the team play matches Zagreb... against the Slovenes, Rather than an end, it now feels Greeks, Dutch, Mace- like the start of something new, donians and Georgians. an uplifting season. There’s still 5-10 September, Arena the tan (though peeling), the Centar. Be there. scent of sea salt on your rolled- #eurobasket2015 up beach towels you didn’t get around to washing, the fresh memory of starlit skies, a pebble Tracks length: Tracks in a sandal that you unknowingly carried from the coast to the city. s for the city... There’s Astill the sunshine (fingers crossed!), even sometimes 66 m real-deal heat – remembranc- es of the summer past. People ZAGREB’S TECHNI- feel more relaxed, and having CAL MUSEUM IS NOW returned from their holidays they CALLED NIKOLA TESLA. complain less. Put this lesser-known Plus there is Zagreb’s sexy social Zagreb highlight on your calendar. September is so packed bucket list, especial- ZET and happening that you don’t ly because now (and know which event to attend. And through mid-October) is In competition with Bordeaux, Lisbon, Athens, if you don’t attend any at all, at the time to see Europe’s Valletta, Riga, Ljubljana, least you have options. Famous Inventors’ Hall, Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels yself, I love options. And I a roving exhibit that *2014 Zagreb was the sixth love living in a city that has comes to Zagreb after best destination in Europe M Manufacture them. Even if it’s just sitting on Munich and Naples. year: 1890 A Metro my balcony that overlooks a leafy @tehnicki-muzej.hr Max speed: 1,5 m/s courtyard, a glass of red in hand, SUMMER IS OVER? Not Ride duration: 64 s named Desire listening to a chatter of voices at the Zagreb Riviera. Capacity: 28 coming in through the wide-open Visit Jarun Lake the first passengers to run in 2018 doors of kitchens and bedrooms, week in September to For the last 40 years sharing sweet tales of summer. witness a spectacle of WORD there have been talks sea sports: 2015 Jarun about building the Beach Open sand vol- Zagreb underground. September is a great time to leyball & the Croatia: Ulica A planned line would stroll the city aimlessly. Set aside (ooh- be 10 km long, crossing a couple of hours, take a tram to Slovenia Wakeboard lee-tsah) the Lower Town and any last stop and wind your way Championship. What are connecting it with Novi back to the main square. Then you waiting for: hit the Street, Straße, beach! #Jarun Zagreb. If the Zagreb tell us what you found en route! Rue, Calle, #BeachOpen2015 Strada, Rua mayor’s word is to be trusted, the first shovel ストリート will dig into the Jelačić Square in two years; 거리 the first passengers will get on board in 街头 2018. #underground Keep in Project touch! Download your free copy and share: 30° zagreb-touristinfo.hr zagreb4you.com what*where*when* WHITE NIGHT - Koza: the leather AN ART AFFAIR crafts you’ll love On September 26, brace yourself for a fabulous art affair set to sweep Zagreb. Nuit Blanche (White Night) is the grand finale of the international Rendez-Vous Festival. That night, the entire city will become an art gallery with installations, performances, music, film screenings, dance and more. This fab event comes courtesy of Croatian and French artists. Admission is free. LONELY CIRCUS Lonely Circus/Fall Fell Fallen – and chic yet quirky – with simple an experimental project dubbed cuts, adjustable straps and patch- ‘electro circus’ – is a fine mash- es of vibrant colors. Two, they’re up of circus art and avantgarde crafted with all Croatian materials music. Head over to the ZeKaEm – from the high-quality leather Theater (Teslina 7) on Septem- to the metal bits. Three: It’s a ber 9 to experience what the family-run business started by a critics describe as ‘a fusion of brother-sister team, Velibor and humor, absurd and acrobatics.’ Dora, so talented at what they do Tickets: 90KN. @ulaznice.hr that you’ll want to support their conscientiously built brand. The t’s a late September afternoon first item they made a decade ZAGREB 2015 Ias you stroll a quiet Upper Town ago was a small leather case, street. You hear that familiar sound, sold in their flagship in the Istrian TOURFILM FESTIVAL so elusive and rare these days, the coastal town of Poreč. In their You’ve probably heard already: chuka chuka chuka of a sewing ma- Zagreb store, they carry several Zagreb is hot! A tourism hit itself, chine. Follow the sound and you’ll bag models, including the funky Zagreb hosts the International uncover one of Zagreb’s best-kept Noobook and the elegant Lile Tourfilm Festival, slated to run secrets. Koza, the tiny studio-shop (named after their mother), as September 21–24. This unique on Basaričekova 18 street, turns out well as items like wallets, belts event showcases free screenings handcrafted leather bags so gor- and briefcases. Pop in to see the of tourist films, promo videos geous that you’ll want to buy each bags being made and to pick and tourism-related TV cover- one you touch. One, the bags are your own piece of art to walk age, all produced in the last two plain beautiful – at once elegant away with. years. Pop by to mingle with film directors, producers and passion- "We grew up to the sound of the old Singer sewing machine. Our ate globetrotters from around mother was not just resourceful but also very creative so we the world. zagreb-tourfilm.com always had handmade bags and clothes." Dora Zoričić, owner NEW TAKE The pick off tours that peel of Zagreb's Čelar Matej layers agreb is going through a entific history of Zagreb. Their Zsightseeing tour renais- evening Ghost Tour takes you sance: from eerie evening walks to spooky Upper Town spots, and outings to Medvednica including old cemeteries (se- mountain to foraging for local cret-zagreb.com). food. The best of the guided Best of Zagreb does a Zagreb tours are not designed only to around WW2 historic tour. prevent you from getting lost. You’ll be taken to a square With each you take, you’ll see that changed names seven the city’s highlights woven into times under various political an engaging story – a history regimes! Politics will be spiced lesson, a dark legend, a cultural up with stories of everyday life ritual or a culinary experience. under Communism (bestofza- Zagreb is a perfect walking greb.com). city but if you prefer a speed- Underground Zagreb and ier rhythm, you can explore Book via www.secret-zagreb.com Medvedgrad Castle Tour is Zagreb by bike (Blue Bike Za- for nature and adventure lov- greb) or segway (Segway City ers. Get ready to see an aban- Tour Zagreb). For adventurers doned underground ex-Yugo who like self-guided tours, bunker and a ruined asylum in Zagreb Be There free mobile the middle of the Medvednica app offers lesser-known routes, forest (destination-urban.eu). such as the indie or arty Zagreb Funky Zagreb takes you on or a tour around Zagreb Solar a Gourmet Zagreb Tour. System. Here’s what Zagreb sightseeing Learn how to haggle at Dolac tours will do for you: take you off Secret Zagreb Walks runs a the beaten path or show you a classic farmers’ market.