MARK YOUR MAPS WITH THE BEST OF MARKETS * was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram

LIMITED EDITION INSTAGRAM* FREE COPY Zagreb in full color No. 06 SEPTEMBER ast month, Zagreb was abruptly left without Dolac. 2015. LFor one week, stalls and vendors migrated to Jelačić Square, only to move back to their original place, but now repaved, refurbished and in full color again. The Z ‘misplaced’ Dolac was a unique opportunity to be remind- on Facebook ed of what things were like half a century ago. This month 64-second kiss there is another time-travel experience on Jelačić Square: on the world’s Vintage Festival in the Johann Franck cafe, taking us shortest funic- back to the 50s and 60s. Read more about it in this issue... ular ride The world’s shortest funicular was steam-powered Talkabout until 1934. The lower stop on Croatia Tomićeva Street GRIČ-BIT IS BACK! connects with the upper stop on The fifth edition of the the Strossmayer best street festival kicks promenade, off on the first day of in front of the ANJA MUTIĆ fall, joining forces with Lotršćak Tower. Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for New the ‘At the Upper Town’ As the Zagreb York Magazine and The Washington Post. Follow her at @everthenomad initiative and showcas- oldest means of public transport, ing Device_art work- the funicular shops and exhibitions began operating Sweet hosted by Space Festival only a year and the Klovićevi Dvori before the horse- gallery. All this topped drawn tram. It has kept its original September with concerts – the first look until today, headliner is TBF from which makes it a used to find the month of Split. #GornjiGrad protected cultural I September a tad sad. It meant EUROBASKET PLAYS monument. The the end of summer, the ceasing of AGAIN IN ZAGREB. funicular runs every ten min- careless play, time to get serious. And it’s the first time utes. A regular School starts again, the shops fill since the Dražen Petro- one-way ticket with sweaters and winter feels vić team won the Euro- costs 4KN; an nearly here. But I’ve had a change pean gold. Dario Šarić, emergency ride is of heart. Perhaps because I spent Bojan Bogdanović and 20KN. the last couple of Septembers in the team play matches Zagreb... against the Slovenes, Rather than an end, it now feels Greeks, Dutch, Mace- like the start of something new, donians and Georgians. an uplifting season. There’s still 5-10 September, Arena the tan (though peeling), the Centar. Be there. scent of sea salt on your rolled- #eurobasket2015 up beach towels you didn’t get around to washing, the fresh memory of starlit skies, a pebble

Tracks length: in a sandal that you unknowingly carried from the coast to the city. s for the city... There’s Astill the sunshine (fingers crossed!), even sometimes

66 m 66 real-deal heat – remembranc- es of the summer past. People ZAGREB’S TECHNI- feel more relaxed, and having CAL MUSEUM IS NOW returned from their holidays they CALLED NIKOLA TESLA. complain less. Put this lesser-known Plus there is Zagreb’s sexy social Zagreb highlight on your calendar. September is so packed bucket list, especial- ZET and happening that you don’t ly because now (and know which event to attend. And through mid-October) is In competition with Bordeaux, Lisbon, Athens, if you don’t attend any at all, at the time to see Europe’s Valletta, Riga, , least you have options. Famous Inventors’ Hall, Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels yself, I love options. And I a roving exhibit that *2014 Zagreb was the sixth love living in a city that has comes to Zagreb after best destination in Europe M Manufacture them. Even if it’s just sitting on Munich and Naples. year: 1890 A Metro my balcony that overlooks a leafy @tehnicki-muzej.hr Max speed: 1,5 m/s courtyard, a glass of red in hand, SUMMER IS OVER? Not Ride duration: 64 s named Desire listening to a chatter of voices at the Zagreb Riviera. Capacity: 28 coming in through the wide-open Visit Lake the first passengers to run in 2018 doors of kitchens and bedrooms, week in September to For the last 40 years sharing sweet tales of summer. witness a spectacle of WORD there have been talks sea sports: 2015 Jarun about building the Beach Open sand vol- Zagreb underground. September is a great time to leyball & the Croatia: Ulica A planned line would stroll the city aimlessly. Set aside (ooh- be 10 km long, crossing a couple of hours, take a tram to Slovenia Wakeboard lee-tsah) the Lower Town and any last stop and wind your way Championship. What are connecting it with Novi back to the main square. Then you waiting for: hit the Street, Straße, beach! #Jarun Zagreb. If the Zagreb tell us what you found en route! Rue, Calle, #BeachOpen2015 Strada, Rua mayor’s word is to be trusted, the first shovel ストリート will dig into the Jelačić Square in two years; 거리 the first passengers will get on board in 街头 2018. #underground

Keep in Project touch! Download your free copy and share: 30° zagreb-touristinfo.hr zagreb4you.com what*where*when* WHITE NIGHT - Koza: the leather AN ART AFFAIR crafts you’ll love On September 26, brace yourself for a fabulous art affair set to sweep Zagreb. Nuit Blanche (White Night) is the grand finale of the international Rendez-Vous Festival. That night, the entire city will become an art gallery with installations, performances, music, film screenings, dance and more. This fab event comes courtesy of Croatian and French artists. Admission is free. LONELY CIRCUS Lonely Circus/Fall Fell Fallen – and chic yet quirky – with simple an experimental project dubbed cuts, adjustable straps and patch- ‘electro circus’ – is a fine mash- es of vibrant colors. Two, they’re up of circus art and avantgarde crafted with all Croatian materials music. Head over to the ZeKaEm – from the high-quality leather Theater (Teslina 7) on Septem- to the metal bits. Three: It’s a ber 9 to experience what the family-run business started by a critics describe as ‘a fusion of brother-sister team, Velibor and humor, absurd and acrobatics.’ Dora, so talented at what they do Tickets: 90KN. @ulaznice.hr that you’ll want to support their conscientiously built brand. The t’s a late September afternoon first item they made a decade ZAGREB 2015 Ias you stroll a quiet Upper Town ago was a small leather case, street. You hear that familiar sound, sold in their flagship in the Istrian TOURFILM FESTIVAL so elusive and rare these days, the coastal town of Poreč. In their You’ve probably heard already: chuka chuka chuka of a sewing ma- Zagreb store, they carry several Zagreb is hot! A tourism hit itself, chine. Follow the sound and you’ll bag models, including the funky Zagreb hosts the International uncover one of Zagreb’s best-kept Noobook and the elegant Lile Tourfilm Festival, slated to run secrets. Koza, the tiny studio-shop (named after their mother), as September 21–24. This unique on Basaričekova 18 street, turns out well as items like wallets, belts event showcases free screenings handcrafted leather bags so gor- and briefcases. Pop in to see the of tourist films, promo videos geous that you’ll want to buy each bags being made and to pick and tourism-related TV cover- one you touch. One, the bags are your own piece of art to walk age, all produced in the last two plain beautiful – at once elegant away with. years. Pop by to mingle with film directors, producers and passion- "We grew up to the sound of the old Singer sewing machine. Our ate globetrotters from around mother was not just resourceful but also very creative so we the world. zagreb-tourfilm.com always had handmade bags and clothes." Dora Zoričić, owner NEW TAKE The pick off tours

that peel of Zagreb'sMatej Čelar layers agreb is going through a entific history of Zagreb. Their Zsightseeing tour renais- evening Ghost Tour takes you sance: from eerie evening walks to spooky Upper Town spots, and outings to Medvednica including old cemeteries (se- mountain to foraging for local cret-zagreb.com). food. The best of the guided Best of Zagreb does a Zagreb tours are not designed only to around WW2 historic tour. prevent you from getting lost. You’ll be taken to a square With each you take, you’ll see that changed names seven the city’s highlights woven into times under various political an engaging story – a history regimes! Politics will be spiced lesson, a dark legend, a cultural up with stories of everyday life ritual or a culinary experience. under Communism (bestofza- Zagreb is a perfect walking greb.com). city but if you prefer a speed- Underground Zagreb and ier rhythm, you can explore Book via www.secret-zagreb.com Castle Tour is Zagreb by bike (Blue Bike Za- for nature and adventure lov- greb) or segway (Segway City ers. Get ready to see an aban- Tour Zagreb). For adventurers doned underground ex-Yugo who like self-guided tours, bunker and a ruined asylum in Zagreb Be There free mobile the middle of the Medvednica app offers lesser-known routes, forest (destination-urban.eu). such as the indie or arty Zagreb Funky Zagreb takes you on or a tour around Zagreb Solar a Gourmet Zagreb Tour. System. Here’s what Zagreb sightseeing Learn how to haggle at Dolac tours will do for you: take you off Secret Zagreb Walks runs a the beaten path or show you a classic farmers’ market. After you daily Zagrebarium tour around hightlight from an unusual perspec- fill your basket, get ready places that played important tive. And what a great way to meet a for a hands-on cooking class part in the industrial and sci- real Zagreb local! (funky-zagreb.com). Sculpture park with beer on tap f you want to take a selfie with Jimmy Hendrix, John Lennon Ior the while in Zagreb, head over to Beertija, a Zagreb classic on Pavla Hatza Street. A unique rock’n’roll sculpture park founded by the team behind the Tvornica club, it’s become a popular hub of urban culture for both locals and visitors. Have your beer in the company of nine immortalized rock stars: Amy Winehouse and Nick Cave arrived this sum- mer, and a new surprise guest is on their way soon. "Groups of tourists stop by the park only to have their photos taken with statues of rock stars," says Dražen Goreta, founder of the rock’n’roll park. Zagreb's MONOVIEW ZAGREB: daily rhythm FROM 6.30AM WHERE MITTELEUROPA Do an early morning round of the farmers' market. MEETS THE MEDITERRANEAN ALEX CREVAR 12.00PM Lotršćak Tower Travel writer from the United States. His work ZAGREB IN A SENTENCE: fires a loud cannon. Hear it has appeared in The New York Times, everywhere around the cen- National Geographic Traveler and Fantastic fusion of ter. If you’re close by, open Outside magazine @AlexCrevar Central European your mouth to avoid your ears and Mediterranean getting plugged. influences, neither Why Zagreb? too big nor too small: LUNCH The main meal of was asked to co-teach a trav- an ideal city built for the day and the break that’s el-writing study abroad pro- taken seriously. Look for great I people, with just the lunch deals in restaurants. gram for an American university Martina right balance for a Avoid going to offices (banks, in 2016. The reason I said yes, Bienenfeld good life. post offices etc) at this time. frankly, was because the program Zagreb Tourist SEPTEMBER IN ZAGREB: asked me which city I thought Board CEO Packed with events, RUSH HOUR is 7–9am and best for such a class. “Zagreb,” I OUR HOT with Vintage Zagreb 4–6pm. Stay put if possible. said without hesitation. opening the Indian AT DUSK The street lamp It wasn’t what they expected. U.S. TIP FOR summer season. I’m lighter turns on the gas universities still think of Europe TOURISTS: especially proud of lamps in the Upper Town. as Paris, Rome, and Prague. In the international Follow him for a great sight- fact, after I said Zagreb, I still LOWER AND White Night finale seeing tour. had to pause and say: “The capi- of the Rendez-Vous tal of Croatia.” UPPER TOWNS, FROM 7PM Evening buzz Festival. It will be a all around the center, or residents of Zagreb, this MIROGOJ memorable night of especially Tkalčićeva and Fmay seem strange, because CEMETERY AND contemporary art Bogovićeva. Time to grab a the Croatian capital is hot right events happening all drink. now. I don’t mean temperature TWO ZAGREB around Zagreb, in hot … I mean in popularity. AFTER MIDNIGHT Night SEAS. indoor spaces as well trams and buses run less Backpackers are everywhere. as alfresco. frequently. Hop on for an Tourism and hostel numbers THE MOST FREQUENTLY ASKED unusual nocturnal city tour are soaring. When I was first QUESTIONS IN TOURIST (find lots of empty seats and in Zagreb, in the 1990s, there OFFICES: Where do we cheerful night clubbers). was one hostel. Today, there are go for the best of nearly 40. Translation: Croatian WEE HOURS City center Zagreb food?. What streets are thoroughly visitors are not just coming for events should we check out? hosed down, in case you’ve Carpe Diem on Hvar. They are MY FAVORITE ZAGREB RITUAL: On Saturdays, wondered why Zagreb is so shopping on , drinking coffee having coffee with friends and feeling clean. in Gradec, and getting freaky on the Zagreb pulse. I’m always excited Tkalčićeva. to see the nice outfits and friendly DAWN A few bakeries will Still, the university needed be open. Sniff out the smell smiles Zagreb people proudly wear. of freshly baked goodies and convincing. “Why Zagreb?” I have breakfast as the sun told them the same thing I tell goes up. everyone planning Central Eu- rope vacations. First, the city is Zagreb goes easy to navigate by foot. Second, retro with its first there are dozens of museums and galleries. Third, you are just Vintage fest a few hours from the coast, Italy, and Austria. ans of music and film didn’t bother mentioning that decades wise. Vintage will Zagreb is where I most like to F NATIONAL HOLIDAYS I past, gear up for present a string Everything, including drink beer and watch the world fun times this of artists who museums and restaurants, is go by. month! Hop on nurture the retro closed; large shopping a time machine culture,” says centers remain open. Tip: to celebrate the Tomo Ricov, the Zagreb is a perfect base for Euro- 1940s—1960s event’s master- Arsen Dedić pean travel. It is cheap, has great connections and plenty of ways to with Vintage mind. There will 1938. - 2015. Zagreb, the inau- be hoola-hoop get into trouble. gural edition of a contests, vinyl fun fest slated to record sales, run September display of vintage Coolture 5—18. Held at the cars, motorbikes heart of Zagreb, and hand-made OK, YOU’VE HAD FUN in Cesarčeva bicycles by Sen- CLUBBING, you've checked out Zagreb and I the bookstores, theaters and street, this fusion tiMental Bikes, love each other cinemas but you still want more of film, fashion, dance classes by in secret culture? music, art, dance Back to Swing, Arsen Dedić - a Croatian and design retro hairstyling CATCH THE RODIN IN MEŠTRO- bard - was among the most celebrates times workshops, ser- prolific Croatian composers VIĆ’S ZAGREB show before past, when style vices by vintage whose work is recognized it closes on September 20. was king. “Style barber shops, across all generations. The great French sculptor’s was so important fashion shows Singing chansons or retrospective is part of the in the middle and music acts composing for film, he French Culture in Croatia nurtured his own unique Festival (Rendez-Vous). Don’t of last century, by retro bands artistic style. both in a fashion and DJs spinning miss Rodin’s 97 works of art, sense but also oldies. including his masterpieces like The Thinker, The Kiss and Door QuiZG to Hell. What is Zagreb’s tallest Varaždin, Dubrovnik 1 8TH ZEGEVEGE - Festival of building? a) Sljeme Tower Sustainable Living takes place of the continent on September 4–5 at the Ban N b) A historic town only 75 km c) Trešnjevka heating plant Jelačić Square. Meet health north of Zagreb, Varaž- food producers and makers of din is a city-monument 2 The first non-American eco cosmetic lines from Croatia in itself. A simple stroll film to win an Oscar - Dušan and abroad, all spread over 90 min Vukotić’s Surrogate (1961) - through the center reveals from Zagreb came out of the Zagreb hundreds of stalls where you stunning architecture, es- film studio in can also grab a vegan meal and pecially from and which street? learn about various non-for- Art Nouveau periods. A a) Vlaška profit organizations. visit to the museum quarter – a complex b) Martićeva , one of the most of old villas and the Old Town Fortress c) Maksimirska popular music bands in Cro- – is a treat for history hawks. End with 3 How old is the atia and the region, plays on a leisurely coffee at the Ritz House, a this September 19 at Šalata. The charming place where the local crème summer? concert is part of their Days of flocks. a) 80 Closed Door tour and guaran- b) 90 tees a two-hour roaring gig. c) 100 Tickets: 80KN.

ANSWERS

been living there since 1985. 1985. since there living been PARQUET COURTS, an American

female griffin vulture who has has who vulture griffin female rock band, plays on September

90. The oldest resident is Mojca, a a Mojca, is resident oldest The 90. 15 in Tvornica Kulture (Culture 3 b b studio; Film Animated Zagreb

Vlaška, home to the famous famous the to home Vlaška, Factory). Catch this special kind

2 a a is the tallest edifice in Croatia; Croatia; in edifice tallest the is of American punk genre: loud

Varaždin city’s museum quarter was nominated for tower Trešnjevka this meters, 200 indie rock with a heavy 90s gui- 1 the European Museum of the Year Award in 1994. over Reaching plant. Heating c tar sound. Tickets: 70KN. N MARK YOUR MAPS WITH THE BEST OF MARKETS Map&card ‘Going to the market’ in Zagreb is a number one cultural ritual. It’s not only about shopping for what’s local and seasonal but a way to join the daily bustle. Colorful market stalls rarely offer ready-made meals for tourists. The best thing about them is their unspoilt flavor: they are traditional meeting points of local food producers and city dwellers.

Every Sunday, the otherwise daily Britanac farmers’ market transforms into a bubbly Kvatrić You have just 24 hours antiques fair. Stir your market is the to experience Zagreb? belly of an imagination with old books, vinyl Or you are here for just records, quirky house up-and-coming decorations like doorknobs as arty three days and want well as socialist-era memorabilia. Dolac is the jewel in Zagreb’s neighborhood. things to be easy? Then market crown. It’s where you Scour the rich can shop for freshest food from Zagreb Card is your Trešnjevka food stalls, then all over the country - even fish! best friend. Like in oth- market lies at the rest with your Splavnica showcases seasonal heart of a large shopping bags er big cities, it includes flowers and the inside market is residential area. The in cafes and a map of the city and a treasury of meat, dairy and rich selection of boutique shops baked goods. along its surroundings, free honest fresh food is transport and discounts only second to Martićeva. Dolac. Tip: Smaller at 150 attractions. More heaps of food usually River @zagrebcard.com means you’re buying from a local Hippodrome producer.

Hrelić is Zagreb’s cult flea market, open on weekend mornings. Go there for three experiences. Haggle for an incredible variety of TIPS& 1) curious products: fake designer clothes, vintage vehicles, unopened letters. 2) Yummy and cheap street food. 3) Take seriously good photos. Tip: To get a good bargain, get there as early as dawn. TRICKS ZAGREB TAXI HELP Street food Chow down +385 1 1777 112 EXCHANGE RATES, (BUY RATE, AUGUST 27, 2015) on the streets of Zagreb € 1 7,57; $ 1 6,56; JPY 100 5,48 TIPS FOR STREET MUSICIANS If the music moves you, a 5KN coin (0.66 euro), the one with the brown bear, will do the trick. NO GUIDE? NO PROBLEM! The VoiceGuide app enables everyone to tour the city alone yet with the help of an experienced guide. The app also works offline. NEED TO KNOW FOR SMOKERS hile Zagreb My favorite Zagreb Many cafes, bars Wpeople love street food are and clubs tolerate to eat their food on sandwiches at smokers but where the go, you won’t it says smoking is Pingvin, chestnuts prohibited, take find city pockets at Flower Square your smoke outside. lined up with busy in fall and Zagreb’s stalls. There aren’t first burrito in RENT YOUR OWN any. The street MATE JANKOVIĆ Masarykova.’ TWO WHEELS food scene is quite Bikes can be rented Chef, columnist, TV star and Anthony - Morana Zibar, Bourdain's host whenever he's here. You subtle. Instead, at 13 locations can find Mate at Johann Franck follow the smell food writer around the city, half of which are in the center. of quintessential Just look out for a Nextbike Mad Men snacks that locals of Dinara bakery station or check out take on their walks (Dolac, Flower nextbike.hr. The first half an and errands around Square, Gajeva 8). hour is free; one hour costs Zagreb town. Late summer Zagreb locals often 8KN; five hours (and up to es! We are back! Vacation is the season for take their street 24 hours) goes for 79KN. Yis over, back to reality. I the corn on the breakfast into a FOR RAINY DAYS... absolutely love Zagreb this time cob. Have it boiled cafe. It’s an unwrit- The Šestine umbrella is of year. The temperature is per- or roasted from ten rule so waiters one of Zagreb's most fect, the streets are back to be- vendors nestled at won’t mind you recognizable souvenirs. Grab yours at one ing crowded and full of people in squares and street eating food bought of the souvenir a rush. All the coffee places are corners. Street fruit elsewhere. If you shops on Bakačeva full and Zagreb again becomes stands (Tomislav want a quick bite, street, below the the city I fell in love with. I know square, the corner look for hole-in- Cathedral. not everyone shares my enthusi- of Ilica and Fran- the-wall kiosks with A FEE TO PEE asm and I don’t blame them. It’s kopanska) provide pizza slices, sand- Public toilets at shops, hard to come back home from healthy snacks of wiches, kebabs and markets and bus and train holidays where the hardest de- locally sourced such. The best street stations charge two kunas. cision was whether to jump into organic fruit. And food after partying Cafes and restaurants will the sea or to slowly walk in. But right now is the time the night away is let you use the loo for free. for me, this is THE time to be in for blackberries! A served by Pingvin CAN I DRINK WATER Zagreb. This is the time you feel customary morning (Teslina 7). This the city waking up. bite features a legendary sandwich FROM THE PUMPS? The old iron pumps, popu- t is a cycle that repeats every scrumptious pastry bar is open until larly called 'Iron France- Iyear, a new beginning. You look you can get in the 4am and serves ki' remain an image of forward to seeing your friends. city’s ubiquitous top-notch grub. childhood for many elderly Everybody is relaxed, with a nice bakeries. Tip: try There’s nothing like citizens of Zagreb. Today tan, telling you stories of their bučnica (savory their sliced steak the Pimp My Pump art group paint them over with vacation. Kids go back to school, pumpkin strudel) at sandwich after a symbols of popular culture. business is starting to roll and any of the branches long night out. And, yes, the water is good suits are back. I miss suits during for drinking. summer. Zagreb is a city made SMALL TAILOR REPAIRS for suits. Sometimes it feels like 4 am If you need small a Mad Men episode, only with tailor repairs, pick less drinking and more beautiful HIP-HOP LEGENDS one of two tailors women. (Mega-Cif or Cik Cak) in ou can actually feel the RETURN TO JARUN Prilaz Sestara Baković, the small passageway that breeze cooling down the Y If you missed a live gig from connects Masarykova and streets, giving us a chance to Onyx, an American hard-core Varšavska streets. enjoy sitting in the sun. It won’t hip-hop band founded by Sticky last for long, fall is just around Fingaz and Fredro Starr in 1988, the corner. Did I tell you that fall you now have a second chance. MORE INFO is my favorite season? I guess I Their third visit to Zagreb is scheduled have to leave something for the for September 11 when they’ll launch next issue. Enjoy Zagreb. It’s so their Against all Authorities EP, at the easy this time of year. Aquarius club at 9pm. Onyx and Aquar- ius have a lot in common - they rose to Zagreb is a city that is made fame around the same time and they’re for suits. Sometimes it feels famous for hip hop mastery. We expect like a Mad Men episode, with you there, and at the after party! less drinking, and more beautiful women APPS

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