DOCSLIB.ORG

Coastal Landscapes

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Coastal Landscapes 3.1 The Coastal system 3.5.1 Erosion 3.5.2 Transportation Systems terminology helps us to understand the connections between processes and landforms The break down and transport of rocks – smooth, A natural process by which eroded material is round and sorted. carried/transported. Input Material or energy moving e.g. precipitation, wind into the system from outside Attrition Rocks that bash together to become Solution Minerals dissolve in water smooth/smaller. and are carried along. Output Material or energy moving e.g. ocean currents, rip tides, sediment transfer, from the system to outside evaporation Corrosion A chemical reaction that dissolved Suspension Sediment is carried along in rocks. the flow of the water. Energy Power or driving force e.g. energy associated with flowing water, the effects of gravity on moving cliffs Corrasion Rocks hurled at the base of a cliff to Saltation Pebbles that bounce along break pieces apart. the sea/river bed. Stores / components The individual elements or e.g. beach, sand dunes parts of a system Hydraulic Water enters cracks in the cliff, air Traction Boulders that roll along a Action compresses, causing the crack to river/sea bed by the force of Flows / transfers The links or relationships e.g. wind-blown sand, longshore drift, mass expand. the flowing water. between components movement Positive feedback Where a flow/transfer leads e.g. coastal management can lead to an increase in to increase or growth erosion elsewhere along the coast Negative feedback Where a flow/transfer leads e.g. when the rate of weathering and mass movement to a decrease or decline exceeds the rate of cliff-foot erosion Dynamic equilibrium A state of balance within a e.g. constructive waves build up a beach, making it constantly changing system steeper. This encourages the formation of destructive waves that plunge redistributing the sediment. Unit 1, Section B, Topic 3 3.5.3 Deposition 3.2.1 How are waves formed? Coastal systems and landscapes When the water looses energy transported The formation, size and shape is a result of the exchange of energy from sediment is dropped. wind blowing over the sea. 3.3 Sediment sources, cells and budgets 3.4.1 Weathering Rivers are the main source of coastal sediment. Other sources include cliff erosion and offshore marine erosion The breakdown or decay of rocks. Sediment cells Sediment budgets Mechanical - Largely self contained natural systems - The total sediment in a sediment cell - Usually found between two headlands Losses The break-up of rocks without any chemical - The movement of sediment is pretty much - Deposition into sediment sinks changes e.g. frost shattering, salt contained Gains crystallisation, wetting and drying. Inputs (sources) - Coastal erosion Chemical - River and coastal erosion - Sediment brought into the system by rivers or 3.2.2 Different types of waves Transfers other offshore sources. A chemical reaction e.g. carbonation, - Longshore drift oxidation and solution. There are two main types of wave: constructive and destructive - Rip currents Stores (sinks) Biological Formation Distant weather systems Local storms - Beaches in the open ocean - Sand dunes The breakdown of rocks by organic activity e.g. plant roots, burrowing animals and birds. Wave form Low, surging. Long High, plunging. - Bars wavelength Short wavelength 3.4.2 Mass movement Wave break String swash, weak Weak swash, strong backwash backwash The downhill movement of material under the influence of gravity. This can be classified into Beach Beach gain Gentle Beach loss. Steeper creep, flow, slide and fall. profile profile 3.6.1 Landforms of erosion: cave, arch, stack, stump 3.6.2 Landforms of erosion: Headlands and bays 3.8.1 Sea level change Soft rock 1) Waves attack the coastline. Sea levels respond to climate change, in particular the onset of glacial and interglacial Bay 2) Softer rock is eroded by the sea periods. quicker forming a bay, calm area Hard rock cases deposition. Eustatic change Isostatic change 3) More resistant rock is left jutting out into the sea. This is a headland and is - Changes in seal level (rise or fall) - The land itself changes in height, now more vulnerable to erosion. Headland relative to the sea 3.7.1 Landforms of deposition: Spit 3.8.2 Landforms caused by changing sea level Emergent coastline Submergent coastline 1) Hydraulic action widens cracks in the cliff face over time. - A fall in sea level exposes land - A rise in sea level floods the coast. 2) Abrasion forms a wave cut notch between HT and LT. previously covered by the sea. 3) Further abrasion widens the wave cut notch to from a cave. 4) Caves from both sides of the headland break through to form an arch. Raised beaches Rias 5) Weather above/erosion below –arch collapses leaving stack. 6) Further weathering and erosion eaves a stump. When wave-cut platforms and their Sheltered, winding inlets formed when a beaches are raised above the present sea rise in sea level drowned river valleys 3.9 Coastal management level. 1) Swash moves up the beach at the angle of the prevailing wind. 2) Backwash moves down the beach at 90° to coastline, due to gravity. Hard Engineering Defences Fjords 3) Zigzag movement (Longshore Drift) transports material along beach. 3.8.3 Contemporary sea level change Groynes Wood barriers Beach still accessible. 4) Deposition causes beach to extend, until reaching a river estuary. prevent No deposition further 5) Change in prevailing wind direction forms a hook. - Until recently sea levels have been Formed when deep glacial troughs are longshore drift, down coast = erodes 6) Sheltered area behind spit encourages deposition, salt marsh forms. stable for the past 3000 years. flooded by a rise in sea level so the beach faster. - Over the 20th century global sea levels can build up. 3.7.2 Landforms of deposition: Beach have rose by 1.7mm per year. Dalmatian coasts Sea Walls Concrete walls Long life span - By 2100 it is estimated that sea levels could have increased by up to 1m. break up the Protects from flooding Formed when valleys running parallel to the - This increase is largely due to thermal energy of the Reflects energy rather coast are flooded by a rise in sea level. wave . Has a lip than absorbing it. expansion od water due to warming to stop waves and the melting of ice. going over. Rip Rap/rock Cages of Cheap 3.7.5 Landforms of deposition: 3.7.6 Landforms of deposition: armour rocks/boulders Local material can be Barrier beach (bars) Offshore bar absorb the used to look less waves energy, strange. Where a beach or spit extends across a bay Are submerged or partly exposed ridges protecting the Intrusive and does not to join two headlands of sediment created by offshore waves cliff behind. fit in with the local 3.7.3 Landforms of deposition: Sand dunes geology. Soft Engineering Defences 3.7.7 Landforms of deposition: Saltmarsh Beach Beaches built Cheap Develop in three types of Nourishment up with sand, so Beach for tourists. environment: waves have to Storms = need travel further replacing. - Sheltered areas where before eroding Offshore dredging deposition occurs. cliffs. damages seabed. - Where salt and freshwater meet. Marsh Low value areas Reduce flood risk 1) Large quantities of sand from constructive waves - Where there are no creation of the coast are Creates wildlife 2) Large tidal range, creating a large exposure of sand that can dry out at strong tides or left to flood and habitats. low tide currents to prevent erode naturally. Compensation for land. 3) Dominant onshore winds, to blow dried sand to the back of the beach. sediment deposition..
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Characterisation and Prediction of Large-Scale, Long-Term Change of Coastal Geomorphological Behaviours: Final Science Report
    Characterisation and prediction of large-scale, long-term change of coastal geomorphological behaviours: Final science report Science Report: SC060074/SR1 Product code: SCHO0809BQVL-E-P The Environment Agency is the leading public body protecting and improving the environment in England and Wales. It’s our job to make sure that air, land and water are looked after by everyone in today’s society, so that tomorrow’s generations inherit a cleaner, healthier world. Our work includes tackling flooding and pollution incidents, reducing industry’s impacts on the environment, cleaning up rivers, coastal waters and contaminated land, and improving wildlife habitats. This report is the result of research commissioned by the Environment Agency’s Science Department and funded by the joint Environment Agency/Defra Flood and Coastal Erosion Risk Management Research and Development Programme. Published by: Author(s): Environment Agency, Rio House, Waterside Drive, Richard Whitehouse, Peter Balson, Noel Beech, Alan Aztec West, Almondsbury, Bristol, BS32 4UD Brampton, Simon Blott, Helene Burningham, Nick Tel: 01454 624400 Fax: 01454 624409 Cooper, Jon French, Gregor Guthrie, Susan Hanson, www.environment-agency.gov.uk Robert Nicholls, Stephen Pearson, Kenneth Pye, Kate Rossington, James Sutherland, Mike Walkden ISBN: 978-1-84911-090-7 Dissemination Status: © Environment Agency – August 2009 Publicly available Released to all regions All rights reserved. This document may be reproduced with prior permission of the Environment Agency. Keywords: Coastal geomorphology, processes, systems, The views and statements expressed in this report are management, consultation those of the author alone. The views or statements expressed in this publication do not necessarily Research Contractor: represent the views of the Environment Agency and the HR Wallingford Ltd, Howbery Park, Wallingford, Oxon, Environment Agency cannot accept any responsibility for OX10 8BA, 01491 835381 such views or statements.
    [Show full text]
  • Geomorphology of Mandvi to Mundra Coast, Kachchh, Western India
    24 Geosciences Research, Vol. 1, No. 1, November 2016 Geomorphology of Mandvi to Mundra Coast, Kachchh, Western India Heman V. Majethiya, Nishith Y. Bhatt and Paras M. Solanki Geology Department, M.G. Science Institute, Navrangpura, Ahmedabad – 380009. India Email: [email protected] Abstract. Landforms of coast between Mandvi and Mundra in Kachchh and their origin are described here. Various micro-geomorphic features such as delta, beaches (ridge & runnel), coastal dunes, tidal flat, tidal creek, mangrove, backwater, river estuary, bar, spit, saltpan etc. are explained. The delta sediment of Phot River is superimposed by tidal flat sediments deposited later during uplift in last 2000 years. Raise-beach, raise-tidal flat, firm sub-tidal mud pockets on beach, delta and parabolic dune remnants and palaeo-fore dune (Mundra dune) - all these features projects 3 to 4 m high palaeo-sea level than the present day. All these features are superimposed by present day active beach, dune, tidal flat, creek, spit, bar, lagoon, estuary and mangroves. All these are depositional features. Keywords: Coastal Geomorphology, mandvi, mundra, kachchh, landforms. 1 Introduction The micro-geomorphic features, their distribution and origin in Mandvi to Mundra segment of Kachchh are described here. Tides, waves and currents are common coastal processes responsible for erosion, transportation and deposition of the sediments and produce erosional and depositional landform features in the study area. Tides are the rise and fall of sea levels caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and the Sun and the rotation of the Earth. Most places in the ocean usually experience two high tides and two low tides each day (semi-diurnal tide), but some locations experience only one high and one low tide each day (diurnal tide).
    [Show full text]
  • 2 G322 Lab Exercise Neotectonic and Coastal Processes of Oregon Part I
    G322 Lab Exercise Neotectonic and Coastal Processes of Oregon Part I. Pre-Lab Questions Use your notes, textbook, wall maps, and reading assignments to answer the following questions. A. Match the Following Coastal Locations with the terms on the Right. List all that apply. __________________ 1. Oregon Coast Passive Margin Tectonics (inactive) __________________ 2. Washington Coast Active Margin Tectonics - subduction __________________ 3. Southern California Coast Active Margin Tectonics - transform __________________ 4. Northern California Coast Active Margin Tectonics - rifting / spreading __________________ 5. Aleutian Islands of Alaska Emergent Coastline __________________ 6. Southeast Alaskan Coast Submergent Coastline __________________ 7. Gulf of Mexico - Texas Active Subsidence __________________ 8. Central Atlantic / U.S. Active Uplift B. Thinking Questions 9. The last major glaciation (i.e. a pervasive cold-wet climate regime) in the northern hemisphere was at it's peak 18,000 to 20,000 years ago. 100's to 1000' of feet of Ice covered much of Canada and the northern tier of the U.S. A. From what major hydrologic source does the precipitation that forms glacial ice originate? B. Describe how this moisture is cycled into glacial ice (what are the processes associated with this part of the hydrologic cycle). C. What happens to global sea level during a major glacial climate? What happens to global sea level during a major interglacial (i.e. warm / melting) climate? D. What happens to land surface elevation at convergent tectonic boundaries (i.e. subduction zones), especially where accretionary tectonics is prevalent? E. What happens to land surface elevation at passive tectonic boundaries, where sediment accumulates over time (think about what happens to water saturated sediment as it accumulates, becoming thicker over time, under increasing weight).
    [Show full text]
  • Coastal Modelling Environment Version
    Coastal Modelling Environment version 1.0: a framework for integrating landform-specific component models in order to simulate decadal to centennial morphological changes on complex coasts Andrés Payo1, 2, 3*, David Favis-Mortlock1, Mark Dickson4, Jim W. Hall1, Martin D. Hurst3, 5†, Mike 5 J.A. Walkden6, Ian Townend7, Matthew C. Ives1, Robert J. Nicholls2, Michael A. Ellis3 1Oxford University Centre for the Environment, South Parks Road, Oxford, OX1 3QY, UK 2Faculty of Eng. & the Env. Energy & Climate Change, Southampton Univ., Southampton, SO17 1BJ, UK 3British Geological Survey, Keyworth, NG12 5GD, UK (current address) * 4School of Env. University of Auckland, 10 Symonds St, Auckland Private Bag 92019, NZ 10 5University of Glasgow, East Quad, Glasgow, G12 8QQ, UK (current address) † 6WSP|Parsons Brinckerhoff, Keble House, Southernhay Gardens, Exeter EX1 1NT, UK 7National Oceanography Centre, Southampton University, SO14 3ZH UK Correspondence to: Andres Payo ([email protected]) Abstract. The ability to model morphological changes on complex, multi-landform, coasts during decadal to centennial time 15 scales is essential for sustainable coastal management world-wide. One approach involves coupling of landform-specific simulation models (e.g. cliffs, beaches, dunes, estuaries, etc.) that have been independently developed. An alternative, novel, approach explored in this paper is to capture the essential characteristics of the landform-specific models using a common spatial representation within an appropriate software framework. This avoid the problems that result from the model- coupling approach due to between-model differences in the conceptualisations of geometries, volumes and locations of 20 sediment. In the proposed framework, the Coastal Modelling Environment (CoastalME), change in coastal morphology is represented by means of dynamically linked raster and geometrical objects.
    [Show full text]
  • View / Download 3.5 Mb
    The roles of vegetation, sediment transport, and humans in the evolution of low- lying coastal landforms: Modeling and GIS investigations by Rebecca Lauzon Earth and Ocean Sciences Duke University Date:_______________________ Approved: ___________________________ Allen Murray, Supervisor ___________________________ Marco Marani ___________________________ James Heffernan ___________________________ Joel Rowland Dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Earth and Ocean Sciences in the Graduate School of Duke University 2018 i v ABSTRACT The roles of vegetation, sediment transport, and humans in the evolution of low- lying coastal landforms: Modeling and GIS investigations by Rebecca Lauzon Earth and Ocean Sciences Duke University Date:_______________________ Approved: ___________________________ Allen Murray, Supervisor ___________________________ Marco Marani ___________________________ James Heffernan ___________________________ Joel Rowland An abstract of a dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Earth and Ocean Sciences in the Graduate School of Duke University 2018 Copyright by Rebecca Lauzon 2018 Abstract Low-lying coastal landforms such as barrier islands and river deltas are attractive sites for human habitation and infrastructure. They are also highly vulnerable to both climate change impacts such as rising sea levels or increases in storm intensity and anthropogenic impacts such as changes in sediment supply. In this dissertation I aim to improve understanding of some of the primary drivers of the evolution of low- lying coastal landforms over varying space (1-100s km) and time (decadal to millennial) scales. I focus in Chapter 2 on the influence of shoreline curvature and resulting gradients in alongshore sediment transport on shoreline change; in Chapter 3 on the influence of wave-edge erosion on back-barrier marsh resilience; and in Chapters 4 and 5 on the cohesive effects of vegetation on river deltas.
    [Show full text]
  • 1455189355674.Pdf
    THE STORYTeller’S THESAURUS FANTASY, HISTORY, AND HORROR JAMES M. WARD AND ANNE K. BROWN Cover by: Peter Bradley LEGAL PAGE: Every effort has been made not to make use of proprietary or copyrighted materi- al. Any mention of actual commercial products in this book does not constitute an endorsement. www.trolllord.com www.chenaultandgraypublishing.com Email:[email protected] Printed in U.S.A © 2013 Chenault & Gray Publishing, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Storyteller’s Thesaurus Trademark of Cheanult & Gray Publishing. All Rights Reserved. Chenault & Gray Publishing, Troll Lord Games logos are Trademark of Chenault & Gray Publishing. All Rights Reserved. TABLE OF CONTENTS THE STORYTeller’S THESAURUS 1 FANTASY, HISTORY, AND HORROR 1 JAMES M. WARD AND ANNE K. BROWN 1 INTRODUCTION 8 WHAT MAKES THIS BOOK DIFFERENT 8 THE STORYTeller’s RESPONSIBILITY: RESEARCH 9 WHAT THIS BOOK DOES NOT CONTAIN 9 A WHISPER OF ENCOURAGEMENT 10 CHAPTER 1: CHARACTER BUILDING 11 GENDER 11 AGE 11 PHYSICAL AttRIBUTES 11 SIZE AND BODY TYPE 11 FACIAL FEATURES 12 HAIR 13 SPECIES 13 PERSONALITY 14 PHOBIAS 15 OCCUPATIONS 17 ADVENTURERS 17 CIVILIANS 18 ORGANIZATIONS 21 CHAPTER 2: CLOTHING 22 STYLES OF DRESS 22 CLOTHING PIECES 22 CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 24 CHAPTER 3: ARCHITECTURE AND PROPERTY 25 ARCHITECTURAL STYLES AND ELEMENTS 25 BUILDING MATERIALS 26 PROPERTY TYPES 26 SPECIALTY ANATOMY 29 CHAPTER 4: FURNISHINGS 30 CHAPTER 5: EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS 31 ADVENTurer’S GEAR 31 GENERAL EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS 31 2 THE STORYTeller’s Thesaurus KITCHEN EQUIPMENT 35 LINENS 36 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS
    [Show full text]
  • Astrea Sixth Form ST NEOTS Transition Materials for a Level
    Astrea Sixth Form ST NEOTS Transition materials for A Level Geography Welcome to the A Level Geography pack, preparing you for your A level Geography course. This pack contains a step by step programme of activities and resources created to prepare you for the academic demands of A Level Geography study. All activities are aimed to be used after you complete your GCSE exams and should be completed in stages throughout the remainder of the summer term and over the summer holidays to ensure you are ready to start your course in September. We look forward to working with you. Mrs McAllister Head of Geography and Geology St Neots Astrea Sixth Form Longsands Academy [email protected] Introduction to A Level Geography Your exam board is OCR and the yr12 course is divided into two areas, Physical and Human Geography. Link to A level HomepageOCR A level Geography Specification The course is broken down into 3 exams, sat at the end of year 13; you will also complete an independent investigation on a topic of your choice. Physical Systems Paper 1hour 30 min Worth 22% Human interactions Paper 1hour 30 min Worth 22% Geographical Debates Paper 2 hours 30 min Worth 36% Independent investigation Coursework out of 60marks Worth 20% One of the main attractions of this A Level is the freedom you have to research an idea of your choosing for your independent investigation (NEA). As you go through the first year keep this in mind and be thinking about what parts of the course interest you the most, what would you like to investigate at the end of yr12? You will need a copy of the core OCR A Level Geography text book, published by Hodder (ISBN13: 9781471858703).
    [Show full text]
  • Earthcomm C4s10
    Chapter 4 Surface Processes Section 10 Coastal Processes What Do You See? Learning Outcomes Think About It In this section, you will Coasts are the narrow zones where Earth’s vast oceans meet • Model how the surfaces of the the edges of continents. Coastal regions extend for hundreds oceans interact with winds. of thousands of kilometers. They are dynamic places where the • Model ocean waves and their hydrosphere, atmosphere, geosphere, and biosphere interact. interaction with coasts. • Are all coasts the same? If not, how are they different? • Apply ideas about balance in systems to coastal areas. • What kinds of processes shape coastal regions? • How can you tell which processes are doing the most work in a coastal region? Record your ideas about these questions in your Geo log. Be prepared to discuss your responses with your small group and the class. Investigate In this Investigate, you will explore some of the basic properties of ocean waves. You will do this by generating waves in water and studying their behavior. After this, you will run a model that explores what happens to ocean waves when they meet a shoreline. You will then explore what happens to waves as they approach an irregular coastline with headlands and bays. Finally, you will run a model that explores deposition along a straight section of coast. 478 EarthComm EC_Natl_SE_C4.indd 478 7/12/11 9:55:33 AM Section 10 Coastal Processes Part A: Waves a) For each of the three methods 1. Imagine the ocean on a calm day. (penny, blowing, and swasher), a) Draw a profile of the ocean that predict what you think will happen shows how its water moves, under to the marble and the cork.
    [Show full text]
  • People and Processes in Quaternary Pacific Northwest
    AMQUA 2014 American Quaternary Association 23rd Biennial Meeting, 2014 Program and Abstracts People and Processes in Quaternary Pacific Northwest Hosted by the Quaternary Research Center, University of Washington UW Husky Union Building (HUB), Seattle, Washington August 7-10, 2014 Table of Contents AMQUA Officers ........................................................................... 2 Program Committee ........................................................................ 3 Program ........................................................................................... 4 Venues Map .................................................................................... 7 Abstracts of Invited Plenary Presentations ..................................... 9 Abstracts of Contributed Poster Presentations .............................. 41 Author Index ............................................................................... 129 Notes ........................................................................................... 133 1 AMQUA Officers E. Arthur Bettis, President Alison Smith, President-elect Colin Long, Secretary Brian Carter, Treasurer AMQUA Councilors Steve Holden, Archeology Matthew Hill, Archeology Kim Cobb, Geochronology, Geophysics, Geochemistry Jessica Tierney, Geochronology, Geophysics, Geochemistry Alex Wolfe, Geohistory Mary Savina, Geohistory Jean Lynch-Stieglitz, Marine Geoprocesses Andrea Dutton, Marine Geoprocesses Elizabeth Hadley, Paleobiology Jack Williams, Paleobioloby Sara Hotchkiss, Paloebiology Connie
    [Show full text]
  • Coastal Modelling Environment Version
    Coastal Modelling Environment version 1.0: a framework for integrating landform-specific component models in order to simulate decadal to centennial morphological changes on complex coasts Andrés Payo1, 2, 3*, David Favis-Mortlock1, Mark Dickson4, Jim W. Hall1, Martin D. Hurst3, 5†, Mike 5 J.A. Walkden6, Ian Townend7, Matthew C. Ives1, Robert J. Nicholls2, Michael A. Ellis3 1Oxford University Centre for the Environment, South Parks Road, Oxford, OX1 3QY, UK 2Faculty of Eng. & the Env. Energy & Climate Change, Southampton Univ., Southampton, SO17 1BJ, UK 3British Geological Survey, Keyworth, NG12 5GD, UK (current address) * 4School of Env. University of Auckland, 10 Symonds St, Auckland Private Bag 92019, NZ 10 5University of Glasgow, East Quad, Glasgow, G12 8QQ, UK (current address) † 6WSP|Parsons Brinckerhoff, Keble House, Southernhay Gardens, Exeter EX1 1NT, UK 7National Oceanography Centre, Southampton University, SO14 3ZH UK Correspondence to: Andres Payo ([email protected]) Abstract. The ability to model morphological changes on complex, multi-landform, coasts during decadal to centennial time 15 scales is essential for sustainable coastal management world-wide. One approach involves coupling of landform-specific simulation models (e.g. cliffs, beaches, dunes, estuaries, etc.) that have been independently developed. An alternative, novel, approach explored in this paper is to capture the essential characteristics of the landform-specific models using a common spatial representation within an appropriate software framework. This avoid the problems that result from the model- coupling approach due to between-model differences in the conceptualisations of geometries, volumes and locations of 20 sediment. In the proposed framework, the Coastal Modelling Environment (CoastalME), change in coastal morphology is represented by means of dynamically linked raster and geometrical objects.
    [Show full text]
  • Unit 5 Oceans and Atmospheres Real Study Guide What Is
    Unit 5 Oceans and Atmospheres Real Study Guide ● What is refraction? ● Name an isolated remnant of wave erosion. Name 2 non­isolated remnants of wave erosion. ● List and describe 3 constructed protective structures that decrease beach erosion. ● List at least 1 beach erosion reduction strategy that does not require constructed protective structures. ● Changes in ocean current patterns are a result of what 2 natural phenomena? ● Describe the difference between the air temperature of a coastal area versus the air temperature of a land­locked area. ● Weather occurs in which atmospheric layer? ● List the top 4 gases in Earth’s atmosphere in order from most abundant to least abundant. ● What erosional and depositional feature is located along North Carolina’s coast? ● What is a tombolo? ● Describe from where the Gulf Stream flows and to where it flows. ● Coriolis effect causes wind and water to deflect to the _______ in the northern hemisphere and to the _________ in the southern hemisphere. ● Name 3 erosional coastline features. ● What causes barrier islands? ● What special layer is located in the stratosphere? What is its benefit to the surface of the Earth? ● What is an example of an erosional feature of an emergent coastline? ● Draw an example of a diurnal, semidiurnal, and mixed wave cycles. ● What is the coldest layer of the atmosphere? ● What is the hottest layer of the atmosphere? ● List the layers of the atmosphere in order from the Earth’s surface to outer space. ● What is the actual location of an earthquake called? What is it called with reference to the Earth’s surface? ● How do we record seismic waves? ● List the layers of the Earth, starting at the Inner Core.
    [Show full text]
  • High-Angle Wave Instability and Emergent Shoreline Shapes: 1
    View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Woods Hole Open Access Server JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 111, F04011, doi:10.1029/2005JF000422, 2006 Click Here for Full Article High-angle wave instability and emergent shoreline shapes: 1. Modeling of sand waves, flying spits, and capes Andrew D. Ashton1,2 and A. Brad Murray1 Received 14 October 2005; revised 27 May 2006; accepted 19 July 2006; published 15 December 2006. [1] Contrary to traditional findings, the deepwater angle of wave approach strongly affects plan view coastal evolution, giving rise to an antidiffusional ‘‘high wave angle’’ instability for sufficiently oblique deepwater waves (with angles between wave crests and the shoreline trend larger than the value that maximizes alongshore sediment transport, 45°). A one-contour-line numerical model shows that a predominance of high-angle waves can cause a shoreline to self-organize into regular, quasiperiodic shapes similar to those found along many natural coasts at scales ranging from kilometers to hundreds of kilometers. The numerical model has been updated from a previous version to include a formulation for the widening of an overly thin barrier by the process of barrier overwash, which is assumed to maintain a minimum barrier width. Systematic analysis shows that the wave climate determines the form of coastal response. For nearly symmetric wave climates (small net alongshore sediment transport), cuspate coasts develop that exhibit increasing relative cross-shore amplitude and pointier tips as the proportion of high-angle waves is increased. For asymmetrical wave climates, shoreline features migrate in the downdrift direction, either as subtle alongshore sand waves or as offshore-extending ‘‘flying spits,’’ depending on the proportion of high-angle waves.
    [Show full text]