Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1
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Assembly Information Guide Disclaimer Definition of Terms The use of the word “Information” includes any and all information contained within this Backcountry Super Cubs Builder’s Manual, including, but not limited to text, images, graph‐ ics, diagrams, and references. “Guide” means this Backcountry Super Cubs Builder’s Manual. “User” means any individual or entity who utilizes this Guide for any purpose.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF INHERENT RISKS By using the Guide, User acknowledges the inherent risks associated with experimental and amateur‐built aircraft and aviation, including bodily injury or death. Backcountry Super Cubs, LLC and its members, officers, directors, agents, employees, and their heirs, succes‐ sors and assigns (collectively, “BCS”) has no control over, and assumes no responsibility for, User’s ability to successfully construct and test the User’s completed aircraft, with or with‐ out the use of the Guide.
User acknowledges that the FAA and/or other knowledgeable persons should inspect the aircraft at construction intervals, as well as the completed project, prior to flight and that User should work with his local FAA representative regarding the construction and licens‐ ing of the aircraft. User, on behalf of itself and its successors and assigns, agrees to comply with all FAA regulations regarding the construction, licensing, and operation of the com‐ pleted aircraft, including but not limited to obtaining and maintaining all appropriate li‐ censes and ratings prior to operating the completed aircraft.
NO WARRANTY ANY USE WHATSOEVER OF INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THE GUIDE IS AT USER’S OWN RISK. THE INFORMATION IS INTENDED TO BE SOLELY EDUCATIONAL AND REC‐ REATIONAL IN NATURE, AND IS PROVIDED “AS IS” WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW. BCS EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES AND CONDITIONS, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, IN‐ CLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, NONINFRINGEMENT, STRUCTURAL INTEG‐ RITY, PERFORMANCE, FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS, OR SAFETY OF THE USER’S COM‐ PLETED AIRCRAFT AND ITS COMPONENT PARTS, WITH OR WITHOUT USE OF THE GUIDE. THE ENTIRE RISK ARISING FROM USE OF ANY INFORMATION IN THE GUIDE RE‐ MAINS WITH THE USER.
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1
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Assembly Information Guide Disclaimer (continued) NO ENDORSEMENT ANY USE WHATSOEVER OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THE GUIDE IS AT USER’S OWN RISK. THE INFORMATION IS PROVIDED “AS IS” WITHOUT ENDORSEMENT OF ANY KIND EITHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, INTENTIONAL OR UNINTENTIONAL BY BCS. NO LIABILITY FOR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, IN NO EVENT SHALL BCS BE LIABLE FOR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAM‐ AGES WHATSOEVER (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, EMOTIONAL DAMAGES, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF BUSINESS PROFITS, BUSINESS INTERRUPTION, LOSS OF BUSINESS INFORMATION, OR ANY OTHER PECUNIARY OR EQUITABLE LOSS) ARISING OUT OF THE USE OF OR INABILITY TO USE THE GUIDE. LIMITATION OF LIABILITY BCS’s ENTIRE LIABILITY AND USER’S EXCLUSIVE REMEDY FOR ANY DAMAGES ARISING FROM USE OF THE GUIDE SHALL NOT EXCEED THE ACTUAL AMOUNT PAID BY USER FOR THE GUIDE.
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1
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Chapter # Page # Revision # Creation Date #1 Introduction Unpacking & inventory Required Tools & Work Area July 2008 Techniques & Torque values 12 1.0 Construction standards 13 1.0 May 2009 May 2009 #2 Airframe Assembly
Trim System Jack screw sub‐assembly 18‐20 1.2 Jack screw install 20‐21 1.2 April 2009 Rear trim indicator pulley 35 April 2009 Trim cable 21 Trim system fairleads 22 1.2 Trim plate 23‐24 1.2 April 2009 Trim handle & front pulleys 25 1.2 April 2009 Trim indicator cable 26 1.2 April 2009 Trim indicator 27 1.2 April 2009 April 2009 Balance cable sub‐assembly 23‐25 1.0 Rudder –Cleaning bushings 26 1.0 April 2009 Rudder –Bushing install 27 1.0 April 2009 Rudder –Temporary install 28‐30 1.0 April 2009 April 2009 Stringers Top 34 1.0 Bottom & sides 36 1.0 April 2009 Vertical fin 39 1.0 April 2009 Elevator balance cable bracket 33‐35 1.0 April 2009 Vertical fin radius (Saddle) 39 1.0 April 2009 April 2009 Floor boards Board Map 36 1.2 Rear & front baggage 37 1.0 May 2009 Front seat fitting 38 1.0 May 2009 Torque tube thread cleaning 38 1.0 May 2009 Front floor boards 40‐41 1.0 May 2009
April 2009
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1
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Chapter # Page # Revision # Creation Date
Rudder Controls Pedals install 39‐41 1.0 April 2009 Pulleys & cables 43‐44 1.0 April 2009 Flap cables 42 1.0 April 2009 Elevator cables 43 1.0 April 2009 Torque tube 45‐46 1.0 April 2009 Rudder cable s to pedals 47 1.0 April 2009 Fair leads 48 1.0 April 2009 Lift strut pulleys 48 1.0 April 2009
Brake System Brake reinforcement plate 49 1.0 April 2009 Pedals 49‐50 1.0 April 2009 Connecting pedals together 51 1.0 April 2009 Master cylinder install 51‐52 1.0 April 2009 Reservoir 52‐53 1.0 April 2009 Gear legs 54‐57 1.2 May 2009
Fuel System Fuel system switch modification 58‐59 1.2 May 2009 Fuel line routing 60‐63 1.0 May 2009
Electrical System 1.1 May 2009 Battery cables & ground wires 64‐66 1.0 May 2009 Wiring Map 67
1.0 May 2009 Interior panels 68‐75
#3 Wing Assembly Introduction 76 1.0 April 2009 Removing flaps & ailerons 76 1.1 June 2008 Fuel tanks 77‐80 1.0 April 2009 Landing lights 80‐85 1.1 November 2007 Wiring 86‐88 1.1 November 2007 Fuel lines & auxiliary pump 89‐90 1.0 April 2009 Pitot line 91 1.0 April 2009 Drilling for rivets 92‐93 1.0 May 2009 Flap & aileron install
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1
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Chapter # Page # Revision # Creation Date #4 Fabric Covering Map
#5 After paint assembly Landing gear 94‐97 Tail wheel 97‐99 Stabilizer 100‐109 Tail brace wires 110‐115 Elevators 116‐120 Rudder 120‐122 Tail control cables 123‐127 Instrument panel Glass installation 128‐137 Main wheels & brakes 137‐146 Brake lines 147‐148
#6 Firewall forward Engine install Video Cowling Video Baffling 149‐151 Other items firewall forward
#7 Wing install Lift struts & tie down rings Jury struts Flaps & Ailerons Connecting Flaps & Ailerons Connecting Fuel & Pitot lines
#8 Finishing Trim Interior panel trim Wiring outside of panel Wing root fairings Inspection cover plates “N” Number & Required Placards
#9 Before Flight Information Log Books Weight & Balance Ground Run & Taxi Test Safety equipment FAA Inspection How to break‐in a new engine
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1
–Page #4
Chapter # Page # Revision # Creation Date #10 First Flight What to expect Fine tune your rigging Phase 1 flight testing
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Parts Inventory Rev # 1.0
–Page #5
Fuselage Group Fuselage Group
Part # Description Amount Part # Description Amount
F1 Fuselage Assembly (welded & Power Coated) 1 F46 Windshield 1 F2 Jack Screw 1 F47 Windshield Trim Strips 2 F3 Jack Screw Yoke 1 F47B Rear Side window front trim strips 2 F4 Jack Screw Tube 1 F48 Windshield side Trim Strips 2 F5 Jack Screw Pulley (Large 2 Groove) 1 F48B Skylight front & rear trim strip 2 F6 Jack Screw Key 1 F48C L21 rear upper side glass trim strip 2 F7 Trim Cable Rear Idler Pulley Bracket (1 3/4) 1 F49 Throttle Cover (Single Door Only) 1 F8 Trim Cable Front Drive Pulley (2 Groove) 1 F50 Throttle Handles 2 F9 Trim Indicator Fairleads 5 F50B Throttle Handle Balls 2 F10 Trim Cable Front Idler Pulley F51 Throttle Connecting Rod 1 Bracket 1 3/4" (Dual Door) 1 F52 Flap Lever Assembly 1 F11 Top Elevator Cable Connecting Link 1 F53 Flap Lever Pivot Shaft 1 F12 Lower Elevator Cable Connecting Link 1 F54 Flap Cam Detent 1 F16 Oil Light Bushings (12 small & 6 long) 1 F56 Instrument Panel 1 F17 Hinges Engine‐side Cowls (2" x 26") 2 F57 Engine Mount Saddles 4 F18 Bag Door Hinges (1 1/2" x 24") 1 F58 Engine Mount (Check options) 1 F19 Control Stick Torque Tube 1 F59 Engine Cowl Support Channels 4 F20 Control Stick connecting Rod 1 F60 Side‐Cowl Doors 2 F21 Control Sticks 2 F61 Side Cowl Door Formers 2 F22 Control Stick Pivots 2 F62 Nose Bowl 1 F23 Hardware Bolt Kit (Airframe) 1 F63 Top Cowl 1 F25 Rudder Pedals 4 F64 Bottom Cowl 1 F26 Rudder Pedal Saddles 8 F64B Air scoop (check options) 1 F27 Brake Pedals 2 F64C small air scoops (air exit) 2 F28 Brake Pedal Saddles 4 F65 Entrance step (2 for double door) 1 F29 Brake Pedal Blocks 4 F66 Upper Door (check options) 1 F30 Brake Reinforcement Plate 1 F67 Lower Door (check options) 1 F31 Floor Board 2 Hole Mount Plate 14 F68 Trim Cable Tensioned Spring 1 F32 Set Floor Boards (4 pc) 1 F69 Elevator Balance Cable Spring 1 F33 Front Seat Assembly (Top & Bottom) 1 F70 Trim Handle & Bearing Kit 1 F35 Lower Aileron Cable Connecting Link F73 Brake Master Cylinder (check options) 2 (At the Control Stick) 2 F74 Fuel Site Gauges (check options) 2 F36 Upper Aileron Cable Connecting Link 2 F75 Carb Heat Air Box (check options) 1 F37 Brake Interconnect Rods (24 1/2" threaded) 2 F76 Torque Tube Caps 2 F37B Rod Ends & Jam Nuts (XM3) for F37 4 F77 Flap Button 1 F38 Large Fairleads 19 F78 Tail Brace Wire Set 1 F39 Rear seat Crossbar 1 F79 Vertical fin radius fairing ( Saddle ) 1 F40 Baggage Door 1 F80 Kit Assembly Manual (Book + CD) 1 F41 Fuselage Stringers 6
F42 1 3/4" Pulleys 12 F43 2 3/4" Pulleys 5
F44 1" Pulleys (5 with upper rear baggage door) 3 F15 Front Elevator Cable Pulley (3") 1 F45 Boot Cowl w/reinforcements, instrument
panel tabs (6) 1 Engine Cowl Angle Mounts (4)
F45B Side Cheeks (just behind boot cowl) left & right 2 Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Parts Inventory Rev # 1.0
–Page #6
Part # Description Amount Part # Description Amount
Fuselage Group Cont. Tail Group
F78 Tail Brace Wire Set 1 T1 Rudder 1 F79 Vertical fin radius fairing ( Saddle ) 1 T2 Elevators 2 F80 Kit Assembly Manual (Book + CD) 1 T3 Stabilizers 2 T4 Rear Stabilizer Pivot Shaft 1 T5 Front Stabilizer Pivot Shaft 1 Wing Group T6 Vertical Fin 1 W1 Wing Assembly R & L 2 W2 Fuel Tanks 2 Cables Group W4 Fuel Tank Covers 2 W9 Flap Assembly 2 C1 Top Aileron Cables w/Turnbuckles 2 W11 Flap Bell crank Rods 2 C2 Lower Aileron Cables w/Turnbuckles 2 W12 Aileron Assembly 2 C3 Jack Screw to Elevator Balance Cable 1 W18 Lift Struts 4 C4 Jack Screw to Elevator Balance Cable W18B Lift Strut Forks 4 Pulley Bracket (1 3/4) 1 W19 Droop Tips (Square Only) 2 C5 Top Elevator Cable at Turnbuckles and Frt. Link 1 W20 Lower Aileron Cable Bracket (2 pcs) & Pulley (2 3/4) 2 C6 Bottom Elevator Cable 1 W21 Landing Light Bulb Holder (set of 2) 4 C7 Rudder Cables w/connecting Links 2 W22 Landing Light Finishing Kit (see options) 2 C8 Flap Cable w/2 turnbuckles 1 W23 Front Jury Strut 2 C9 Trim Ind. Cable 1 W24 Rear Jury Strut 2 C10 Trim Cable (endless) 1 W25 Front Jury Strut Clamp 2 C11 Trim Indicator Cable Rear Stringer Brackets 2 W26 Rear Jury Strut Clamp 2 W27 Jury Strut Spacer Bar 2 W28 Jury Strut Clamp Tab 4
Landing Gear
L1 Tail Spring Support 1 L2 Main Landing Gear Leg (left & right) 2 L3 Landing Gear Struts 2 L4 Cabane V 1 L5 Wheel Spacers 2 L6 Main Wheel & Brake Set 2 L7 Tail Wheel 1 L8 Tail Wheel Spring 1 L9 Axel Nuts 2 Section Intro 01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Required Tools & Work Area –Page #12
When building your aircraft you will need enough space to at least buildup and cover one wing at a time & have the ability to move each component outside after completion. There would be nothing worst then to build your aircraft indoors and have no way of getting it outside.
To maximize your work area and reduce the need of a helper we suggest getting a wing rotator, you will be able to move the wings around the shop much easier and it would make it much more ergonomically better for you when working. Your work area should be large enough so that you can work around the total circumference of one wing at a time. The work area should be well lit & free from debris. The work table should be large enough to set your components on in, make sure that it’s surface is clean at all times so that none of your parts could get scratch or damaged.
NOTE: Before starting any part of your aircraft it is STRONGLY SUGGESTED to have a camera around to take photos of you doing work during each step of the construc‐ tion. It is best to get a notebook and make entries every day that you are in the shop. The FAA prefers to have hand writ‐ ten entries and a signature at the end of each entry. Note your start and finish time for each entry. This should prove to the inspector that you were indeed the one who worked on your aircraft and not another person or company. Having as much proof in place will give the inspection process a more positive result in your favor. Be detailed in the log book of what and when you did the work. Remember that it is OK to have friends or other people help you with the build, as long as they are doing it as an amateur builder. Have them make an entry in your log book for each day they help you. Remember, you need to be in each picture. The FAA does not care about the aircraft at this point, they only care about you proving you did the work.
We have done our best to minimize the amount of tools needed to build one of our aircraft and still keep within the 51% rule. We also tried our best to only use tools that are easy to come by & reduced as much specialty tools needed. How ever some specialty tools will save a ton of time but with a cost. In the next page or so we will list the tools that we used and list tools that would help reduce Section Intro 01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Required Tools & Work Area –Page #13
Listed below are the AN Bolt, wrench & drill bit size re‐ quired to build your aircraft. Bolt size Wrench Drill Torque AN526‐ 1/4” #36 AN3‐ 3/16” #12 20‐25” lbs AN4‐ 7/16” 1/4” 50‐70” lbs AN5‐ 1/2” 5/16” 100‐140” lbs AN6‐ 9/16” 3/8” 160‐190” lbs AN7‐ 1” 7/16 450‐500” lbs
Torque wrench either inch lbs or foot lbs A set of standard imperial wrenches An index of fractional, numbered, and lettered drill bits Plexiglass Drill bit #11, 3/8”, 5/16” Ream 1/8‐26 NPT Tap 1/4” x 20 Tap Cleco pliers Clecos 3/32” & 1/8” (Copper & Zinc ) Strap duplicator * (hole finder) #6 Nut plate drill jig Countersink tool Unibit drill “Step drill” Deburring tool * Phillips screw driver Common head screw driver Duck billed pliers Nicopress pliers* or large pliers Rivet gun Rivet squeezer Measuring tape Rulers long & short Caliper digital or analog Spring clamps Hack saw or power miter saw Magic markers (fine point) Acid brush Paint brush
Section Intro 01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Required Tools & Work Area –Page #14
Electrical tape Painter tape Needle file Flat file Round file Sand paper Small round wooden dowel Pinking shears ( Fabric scissors ) Safety wire twisters Tubing cutter Tubing bender Tubing flange tool Green & Red handle shears (snips) Wire stripper Fine tip & knife edge Soldering iron Multi meter with continuity test Level 5/32” Hex wrench ( Allen Key ) Rare earth magnets Vacuum Dremel tool Fish scale Hammer Dead blow hammer Hand held grinder Band saw * Punch tool
* tools that you don't have to buy but would make it much easier to build your aircraft with. Section Intro 02 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Unpacking & Inventory –Page #15
When you receive your aircraft kit, the first thing that you need to do is take your parts list check off sheet and check off every part that you find in your kit. If you are having a hard time recognizing an item you can use our website’s packing list link to identify each part. Our packing list shows in detail the part number, description, amount required and a photo of every part that should be shipped. Note: Look over all parts and accessories for any possible damages during shipment. The last thing you want is a set of lift struts dented or bent. If any of your parts have been damaged during shipment please report it as soon as possible.
Hardware Descriptions & Torque Values Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs Quick Reference Guide –Page #16
Ft
‐ 41.66 lbs 1.66 ‐ 2.08 4.16 ‐ 5.83 8.33 ‐ 11.66 37.5 Torque 13.33 ‐ 15.83
lbs
20 ‐ 25 50 ‐ 70 Torque Inch 100 ‐ 140 450 ‐ 500 160 ‐ 190
Size #12 1/4" 3/8" 5/16" 7/16" Drill
CHART
Pin
Cotter SIZE MS24665 ‐ 138 MS24665 ‐ 132 MS24665 ‐ 283 MS24665 ‐ 138 MS24665 ‐ 283
‐ 5 ‐ 3 ‐ 7 ‐ 4 ‐ 6 Nut
AN310 AN310 AN310 AN310 AN310 DRILL Castle
& ‐ 524 ‐ 720 ‐ 428 ‐ 624 ‐ 1032 Insert
series. Locknut AN365 AN365 AN365 AN365 thread AN365 Nylon
Flat ‐ 5 ‐ 7 ‐ 4 ‐ 6 ‐ 3
plated fine
Area
Washer TORQUE AN970 AN970 AN970 AN970 AN970
Lg. cadmium locknut
nut
nut free
use
oil
locknut ‐ 10L
‐ 516L ‐ 716L ‐ 416L ‐ 616L castle Washer
from
Size castle use Descriptions
BOLT
Shank
use AN960
use & AN960 AN960 AN960 AN960 Thin derived
shank
AN are shank head head Size ‐ 10
‐ 516 ‐ 716 ‐ 416 ‐ 616
Number
Drilled Undrilled Drilled Drilled AN960 AN960 AN960 AN960 AN960 Part Washer valuse torque
‐ 4 ‐ 4A ‐ 4 ‐ 4A Size
following AN5 ‐ AN4 ‐ AN6 ‐ AN7 ‐ AN3 ‐ AN3 AN3 AN3H Bolt AN3H
The Sample
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
FAA Construction Standards –Page #17
The FAA Construction standards guide (AC43.13‐1B) can be purchased threw Aircraft spruce Part # 13‐11350.
We also offer this book on our website as a downloadable PDF.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #18
Sub‐assemble Jack Screw
The 1st step in building the trim system is to prime and paint the Balance Cable Bracket. The bracket shown in Fig‐ Figure #21 ure #21 will need to be pre‐bent around the Jack Screw Yoke then removed before painting.
Use a spray can of rust resistant primer. Let dry then use a spray can of paint to protect this bracket from any possible rusting.
The bending process is shown in Figure #22 ‐ #25.
Figure #22 Figure #23
Figure #24 Figure #25 Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #19
Figure #26 To install the Balance Cable Bracket on to the Jack Screw Yoke, use a AN3‐7 bolt, AN310‐3 castle nut with two AN960‐10 washers and a MS24665‐132 cotter pin. Assem‐ ble each part as shown in Figure #26
During the installation of the trim system you may find a few parts that have paint buildup in unwanted areas. These items will require paint to be removed before installation can occur. Any paint buildup in the following areas will make it impossible to install the Jack Screw and will cause some unwanted binding.
The Jack Screw Tube will require this paint removal process at its attachment points and at the grease nipple location. To clean the attachment points it is suggested to use a 15/16 drill bit to remove the excess paint in the bolt hole locations.
Use a 1/8‐27 NPT Tap to clean the Zerk fitting location.
You will need to buy a ( MS15003‐6 ) 90 degree Zerk fit‐ ting (Grease fitting) to install in to the Jack Screw Pipe. You can buy these thru Aircraft Spruce.
Install the Zerk fitting in to the Jack Screw Pipe and have the fitting pointing forward and offset either left or right of the indicator cable location.
Place the Jack Screw Tube on to the Jack Screw Yoke, en‐ suring you have the yoke in the upward forward position and have the tube ‘s Zerk fitting facing upward when in‐ stalling. Use two AN5‐7 bolts, two AN960‐516 washers, two AN960‐516L washers and two MS24665‐136 cotter pins.
Connect the Jack screw pipe and yoke together as shown in Figure #27 Figure #27. The thicker washer will be set between the Jack Screw pipe and yoke and the thinner washer will be set between the pipe and the castle nut.
When securing each of the castle nuts turn the nuts snug then slightly back off to the next hole on the castle nut. Place a MS244665‐136 cotter pin in each of the bolts and bend each cotter pin to complete the Jack Screw Yoke sub‐ assembly.
Before installing the jack screw shaft in to the airframe, you will need to clean any paint that may be found in the air frame’s Jack Screw bushings. We suggest using a small round piece of dowel wrapped with sandpaper Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #20
To ensure that you don’t enlarge the bushing holes, clean each bushing a small amount and check for correct fit. At the bottom of the lower bushing you will need to file off any excess paint to ensure a correct fit for the Jack Screw pulley.
Lubricate both the Jack Screw and each bushing with am‐ ple amount of white lithium grease before inserting the Jack Screw in position.
Jack Screw install
Spin the screw clockwise when inserting in to the bushings Figure #28 to reduce any possible binding. When you are satisfied with the fit of the Jack screw, remove the screw half way up between the upper and lower bushings to install the Jack Screw Yoke and pipe assembly. Spin the Jack screw in to the yoke making sure that the Jack Screw Pipe is facing forward. Insert a AN960‐616 washer between the lower bushing and the base of the Screw. Then place the screw in to the lower bushing. Place a AN960‐616L small washer at the bottom of the bushing as shown in Figure #28.
Cutting Jack Screw Key
Then take a measurement from the bottom of the cotter Figure #29 key hole to the bottom of the AN960‐516L washer. This measurement will now be used to measure and mark the top side of the Jack Screw Key. Place the key in a vise and use a common file to cut the key down to size as shown in Figure #29 . Make sure to file the top of the key level.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #21
Figure #30 Place the key in to the Jack Screw to check for correct fit between the key and the pulley. Place the two grove pulley item #F8 in to place . The pulley should slide over the key without much resistance as shown in Figure #30.
Endless trim cable install
Remove the pulley from the Jack Screw and place the end‐ less trim cable onto the pulley. Carefully unpack the cable and lay it inside the airframe from the trim handle location in the front of the airframe to the back of the Jack Screw.
Run the cable on the top groove of the pulley ,then loop Figure #31 round the R/S rear pulley tab. Then take the cable and run it back around L/S the lower pulley groove as shown in Fig‐ ure #31 . Run the remaining excess cable toward the front of the aircraft.
Notice that the R/S lower groove cable will be crossing un‐ der the tension rear pulley cable.
Carefully place the pulley on to the Jack Screw and ensure Figure #32 that the cables do not slip out of the grooves. Then insert two AN960‐616 washers on the screw, then secure the pulley with a AN310‐6 Castle Nut. Tighten the castle nut snug, then use a MS24665‐140 cotter pin to complete the Jack screw assembly as shown in Figure #32.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #22
Figure #33 The next step is to clean the 1” pulley holes with a #11 reamer. If you skip this step you may find that when you run your AN3‐7 bolt threw each pulley it may have a tight fit. Install two 1” pulleys onto the airframe using a AN3‐7 bolt, AN960‐10 washer, AN310‐3 castle nut and a MS24665‐132 cotter pin. In each location be sure to have the cable running under each pulley as shown in Figure #33. Check to see that each pulley spins freely after assem‐ bly.
Fairlead Bushing install Figure #34
Clean each of the large bushing slots found on the airframe with a knife to allow the endless cable to slip inside each fairlead. We suggest painting the inside of each bushing to ensure that no rusting could occur. You can use a small brush to paint each inner bushing. When painting is com‐ plete and dry, install the cable in to the bushings. You may need to slightly bend the opening of each slotted bushing with a common head screwdriver to slide the cable in to position. Then install the plastic fairlead assemblies in to each bushing. (each assembly will have 2 halves and 1 metal clip) There are a total of 4 large bushings that require this step as shown in Figure #34 . Each of these fairleads must be installed with the metal ring facing toward the front of the aircraft.
Then install the 5 small fairlead bushings in the airframe. These bushings are for the trim indicator cable. Figure #35
Fit trim indicator plate
The next step is to install the trim indicator plate. To pro‐ tect the airframe’s paint use masking tape during the fit‐ ting process of this plate. There will be 3 areas you will need to protect, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear of the plate as shown in Figures #35 ‐ #36.
Note: The trim indicator plate is not part of the Aircraft Figure #36 kit. If you decide that you would like Turbine Cubs of create this plate you can be perched one for a small cost.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #23
Figure #37 The trim indicator plate may need to be slightly trimmed to fit in place. Mark with a magic marker the locations that require trimming, an example is shown in Figure #37.
Use a file to cut down the unwanted material as shown in Figure #38 Figure #38.
When the cover fits to your liking, mark the 2 securing Figure #39 points, then mark the hole needed for the trim handle, these locations are shown in Figure #39.
We marked both the inside & outside radius of the trim Figure #40 handle as shown in Figure #40. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #24
Figure #41 To ensure a correct measurement, measure the radius of the trim handle bushing, as shown in Figure #41.
Figure #42 Take the measurement then divide in half. This will be the center of the hole. Mark, then drill this location with a small drill bit. Then use a step drill to enlarge the hole, show in Figure #42.
Figure #43 To enlarge the hole to the needed size use a round file and file to the marked line, as shown in Figure #43.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #25
Trim Handle & Pulleys install
Find item #F70 (Trim Handle & Bearing Kit) shown in Fig‐ Figure #44 ure #44.
The first step is to install the lower bearing. This bearing should slide in position with little force. Ensure you have the bearing sitting flush with the bushing. Then install the collar, place the crank handle in the lower bearing and col‐ lar then place the top bearings into position. Press down on the bearing so that they fit flat in the trim crank bushing. Place a washer on top of the bearing, then run the small pin in to the trim handle post.
Install the Trim cable front idler pulley bracket. This assem‐ bly will require a AN3‐5A Bolt, 2 AN960‐3 washers & 1 AN365‐1032 locknut.
Place a washer on to the head of the bolt, run the bolt through the pulley bracket and place the bracket on to the airframe. The opening of the bracket will be pointing for‐ ward, run the bolt through and place the 2nd washer onto the bolt, then install the locknut. Tighten with 3/8 wrenches.
Loop the endless trim cable around the pulley by first start‐ Figure #45 ing from the top L/S of the front pulley then run the cable toward the 2nd pulley location. Then run the cable forward (left lower groove) of the front pulley. With the small 1 3/4 pulley in hand, place a AN3‐5 bolt and a AN960‐3 washer on to the rear pulley bracket and place the pulley in to the bracket. Use a AN960‐3 washer on the backside of the bracket and then the AN310‐3 castle nut with a MS24665‐ 132 cotter pin and then bend in to position. Your final as‐ sembly should look like Figure #45.
Run the endless trim cable around the Rear Idler Pulley. Then install the pulley in the Bracket item #F7 with a 1 3/4” pulley. It will require the same hardware as previous AN3‐5 bolt, 2 AN960‐3 washers, AN310‐3 castle nut & a Figure #46 MS24665‐132 cotter spin.
Once assembled, use item #C12 spring and secure spring on to the bracket and then to the airframe as shown in Fig‐ ure #46.
When completed check the operation of the trim system. You should be able to turn the handle and watch the Jack Screw yoke travel all the way up and down with no resis‐ tance. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #26
Install the trim indicator cable . Start from the front of the Figure #47 aircraft route the cable threw each of the 5 small fairleads. Install a small black nicopress sleeve on the end of the ca‐ ble. Then make a small loop in the cable, run the end of the cable back through the nicopress sleeve, use a pair of pliers to bond the wire together, as shown in Figure #47.
The final out come should look like Figure #48. Figure #48 Run the cable through the top of the rear trim indicator pulley and downward to the Jack Screw tube.
Figure #49 Trim indicator cable install
Place a AN960‐10 washer onto a AN3‐6 bolt, then run the bolt half way through the jackscrew trim indicator, then loop the cable around the bolt, run the bolt through the bracket, place a AN960‐10L washer, spin on a AN380‐3 castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin. The final assembly will look like Figures #49.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #27
Trim indicator post install
To make the trim indicator , you will need a scrap piece of Figure #50 stainless steel and cut it down to size we used a measure‐ ment of 1 5/8” x 5/8”. Mark a cross center line with a magic marker. Place a AN366F‐1032A anchor nut onto the metal plate, center the middle hole over the mark the you cre‐ ated. Mark the two end holes with the magic marker. Re‐ move the nut plate and drill out the center hole using a #11 drill bit then drill out the two outside holes using a #40 drill bit.
Place the anchor nut onto the stainless steel plate, then measure half way between the end of the anchor nut to the end of the metal plate. Make a mark half way between them. Do this for each end.
Drill each end with the #40 drill bit. Then install two CCP‐ 32 rivets on the underside of the steel plate and through the anchor nut . Press the rivets with a hand press rivet gun.
Figure #50 Install one side of the stabilizer to add needed weight to the Jack Screw, as seen in Figure #50. This is needed to give a correct measurement when installing the trim indi‐ cator post.
Set the Jack Screw all the way up . Then install a spring onto the one side of the metal plate and then attach the other end of the spring onto the airframes top tab. Then run the trim indicator cable through the other end of the metal plate.
To set the length of the cable, make sure that the spring has some tension on it. Install a small black nicopress sleeve onto the cable and press the sleeve as shown in pre‐ vious steps. Make sure to give enough tension on the spring but not too much. Install a small bolt in the anchor nut this will be used to make a mark on the cover plate. Use a magic marker and mark the center of the bolt loca‐ tion for the front. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #28
Then crank the Jack Screw all the way down. You should Figure #51 notice the bolt moving toward the back of the airframe. Make a center mark under the bolt at the lowest Jack Screw location, as shown in Figure #51 ‐ #52.
Figure #52
When both locations have been marked remove the trim Figure #53 indicator cover plate and make a straight line between the two locations. Measure the width of the bolt you will be using for the trim indicator. Divide the measurement in half and make two marks beside your center line on the cover plate, as shown in Figure #53.
Use a #11 drill bit to drill out the two end marks on the cover plate. Then use a round file to cut out the needed hole. Follow the center line when cutting with the small round file. When the hole has been made from one end to the other use a flat file to trim to each of your outside lines. Debur if needed.
Place the trim indicator cover plate back in to position and check for fit. Crank the Jack Screw all the way up then all the way down to check your final measurement / positions.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #28
Figure #54 Use a #11 drill bit to drill out the two end marks on the cover plate, as shown in Figure #54.
Then use a round file to cut out the needed hole. Follow Figure #55 the center line when cutting with the small round file, as shown in Figure #55.
When the hole has been made from one end to the other Figure #56 use a flat file to trim to each of your outside lines, as shown in Figure #56. Debur if needed.
Place the trim indicator cover plate back in to position and Figure #57 cleco in, then install the bolt thru the trim plate then . To check for correct fit, crank the Jack Screw all the way up to see if your bolt rubs or touches the trim plate. Then turn the crank all the way down to check the other end of the slot for any touching, as shown in Figure #57. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #30
Sub‐assemble balance cable pulley
Sub‐assemble the Jack Screw item #C14 to elevator bal‐ ance cable pulley bracket to a 1 3/4 pulley. To do this you will need a AN3‐7 Bolt, AN3‐10 washer, AN3‐10L washer, AN310‐3 Castle Nut and a MS24665‐132 cotter pin.
Place the AN3‐10 washer onto the AN3‐7 bolt. Wrap the cable around the 1 3/4 pulley, slide pulley through the bracket then install bolt to hold pulley in place as seen in Figure #58 Figure #58. Place the AN3‐10L washer on the threaded end of the bolt. Then screw on the castle nut, tighten until snug, then back off one hole on the castle nut to install the MS24665‐132 cotter pin.
Next install a cotter pin MS24665‐283 in the middle hole of the bracket. This cotter pin will keep the cable from com‐ ing out of the pulley grove.
Clean Bushings Figure #59 With a 3/8” ream, clean any paint and welding debris out of each of the hinge bushings. The rudder system has 2 hinges. 2 at the top of the vertical fin item #T6, two at the lower rear of the tail post, and 4 on the Rudder item #T1. Ensure that you don’t over size the bushing holes during the cleaning process. You can use a 3/8” Line Reamer to clean each bushing, as shown in Figures #59, #60 & #61.
Figure #60 Figure #61 Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #31
Install Bushings
Install the short Oil Light Bushings item #F16 in the Verti‐ cal Fin item #T6 and through the tail post. Make sure that the bushings go in straight when installing each bushing. Use a AN5 Bolt as a guide pin, tap in by hitting the head Figure #62 with a hammer (you may find it easier to use a punch on the head of the bolt).
The bolt head will protect the bushing during the installa‐ tion process, as shown in Figure #62.
Install 2 long Oil Light Bushings in the Rudder item #T1 bushing locations. Follow the previous steps shown above for installing the bushings.
Figure #63 When all 6 Bushings are installed, place the Vertical Fin in the tail post and jackscrew tower of the airframe. Then install the rudder by using 2 MS20392‐3C53 clevis pins.
The pins are inserted from the top down as shown in Fig‐ ure #63.
Note: You will only temporally keep these pins in place until all needed measurements have been taken.
Next we need to make the rudder parallel with the tail post Figure #64 of the airframe. Measure the distance at the lowest point between the tail post and rudder as seen in Figure #64.
Now measure the distance between the top of the tail post Figure #65 (the top of the airframe, not the vertical fin) and the rud‐ der. Move the front of the vertical fin (where it goes threw the Jackscrew tower) up or down until the distance at the top of the tail post is the same as the distance at the bot‐ tom of the tail post, shown in Figure #65. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #32
Figure #66 When the vertical fin has been set in the correct position, drill the front of the vertical fin to the jackscrew tower. To do this, first drill out one side of the airframe with a 3/16” drill bit. It is not advisable to continue drilling all the way through to the other side because it is too difficult to line up the second hole. Install a pin (the backside of a drill bit works well) in the hole you just drilled. This will hold the alignment between the two holes as you go around and drill the other side. With the same 3/16” drill bit, drill the other side being cautious to keep the drill bit (being used as Figure #67 a pin) square to the vertical fin. Then clean out the same holes with a #11 drill bit. This can be seen in Figure #66 & #67
Figure #68 Drill the forward rear side of the vertical fin with the 3/16” drill bit. Then re‐drill with a #11 drill bit. Drill only the front side of the airframe. Then place the 2nd drill bit in this hole to temporally secure the vertical fin in place. Shown in Figure #68.
To drill out the rear vertical fin location you must first re‐ Figure #69 move the rudder by pulling out both clevis pins to expose the final drilling location. Drill out the last hole in the same manner shown in the pervious steps. Keep the drill bit straight during drilling, as shown in Figure #69. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #33
Elevator balance cable bracket Install
Install the Elevator balance cable bracket assembly onto the airframe. To install the bracket you will need a AN3‐12 Bolt, 2 AN960‐10 washers, AN310‐3 castle nut & a MS24665‐132 cotter pin. Bend & cut the cotter pin into position to complete the front side of the vertical fin instal‐ lation.
Note: ensure to have the Elevator balance cable bracket Figure #70 installed in the correct direction. The cable guard is to be at the top of the bracket as shown in Figure #70.
Place a AN3‐12A bolt facing forward through the vertical Figure #71 fin & airframe, then install a AN960‐10 washer and com‐ plete the installation with a AN365‐1032 Locknut. Shown in Figure #71.
To keep the top elevator balance cable from moving Figure #72 around during the fabric covering process, it is suggested to temporary secure it to the airframe with a tie strap as seen in Figure #72.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #34
Stringer Install Figure #1 The next step is to install the stringers. Measure the top center stringer. Start from the inside top front slot of the airframe to the rear slot by the jackscrew. The measure‐ ment that we had was 83”.
Check your airframes measurement to ensure correct length. Take one of the shorter stringers and mark the measured length, then cut to size.
To cut the stringer you can use either a hack saw or even a power miter saw as shown in Figure #1.
Note: When cutting with a power miter saw, cut the metal slowly. This will ensure that the metal won’t bend during the cutting process.
Figure #2 Figure #3
Top center stringer install Figure #4 Install the center stringer by first sliding it in the front slot. Then work your way to the back along the airframe. Place the stringer in to each of the top airframe tabs. Clamp the stringer in place at each tab location. This will eliminate any movement of either the stringer or tabs. See Figures #2 ‐ #3 for locations and clamping examples.
When marking the screw hole locations of each end of the stringer, measure the center width of each slot then divide the number in half. Then mark with a small magic marker this location, as shown in Figure #4. Figure #5
Because the slot is angled it is advisable to use a spring handle center punch to assist with the start of drilling, as shown in Figure #5. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #35
Drill the hole using a #36 bit as shown in Figure #6. Make Figure #6 sure to drill straight on. When the hole is complete use a AN526C 440‐16 screw and a MS21044N04 locknut. To tighten the screw and nut, use a 1/4” wrench & a #1 Phillips screwdriver.
When drilling out each tab location install the same size screw and locknut before moving to the next tab. Follow the same guidelines for the rear slot as you did for the front stringer slot.
Rear trim indicator pulley
Sub‐assemble the rear trim indicator pulley bracket. Use a Figure #7 1 3/4” pulley, pulley brackets item #C11 one An3‐7 bolt, one AN3‐10 washer, AN310‐3 castle nut & MS24665‐132 cotter pin.
You will first need to clean the pulley’s brass bushing and each of the 3 holes in the bracket, using a #11 ream. Install the bolt in the bracket then thread the bolt into the pulley, place the other bracket onto the bolt then install the washer and castle nut onto the bolt.
Figure #8 Measure the width of the stringers lower channel, then divide the measurement in half.e Ligh tly scor the center line in this channel as shown in Figure #8.
Position the pulley / bracket under the top rear stringer. Measure from the front edge of the Jack Screw tower bushing to the beginning of the pulley. The location should be 2 3/8”. Use a clamp to hold the pulley bracket in place and make a center mark for each hole in the bracket as Figure #9 seen in Figure #9.
Remove the pulley bracket and drill out both holes using a #30 drill bit to start. When both holes are complete re‐drill each hole again using a #11 drill bit to complete.
Re‐install the pulley bracket and secure the bracket to the stringer using 2 AN526C 1032‐16 screws and 2 MS21044N3 nuts. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #36
Bottom stringer install Figure #10 Measure the length of the bottom stringer. Start from the bottom front center slot and measure to the rear center tab add an inch extra to the total length of the stringer. Place the bottom stringer in to the front slot and make sure the stringer is in each tab clamp the stringer by each tab to minimize any possible movement . Take a square and mark from the rear bottom tab a line on the stringer, as shown in Figure #10.
Remove the stringer and make the needed cut and file any sharp edges.
Place the bottom stringer back in the front slot and clamp Figure #11 in to position at each tab location. Check to see that the stringer fits correctly at the rear tab. The stringer will need to have a slight bend in it to fit in to the rear tab as shown in Figure #11.
Drill the front slot as shown in pervious steps using the same size drill bit and hardware to secure each tab loca‐ tion.
When drilling out the rear end of the stringer push up on the stringer so that the bottom of the stringer would be flush with the bottom of the rear tab, then drill and secure with the required hardware.
Figure #12 Side stringers install
Measure and cut both of the upper side stringers at a length of 98 3/4” long. Make sure that there isn’t any sharp ends of the stringers, file the ends if needed.
Place one of the stringers in the front side slot. Then place the stringer in each tab and clamp.
Follow the same steps shown for the upper middle stringer, using the #36 drill bit and hardware to secure both upper side stringers, as shown in Figure #12. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #37
Preparing side stringers
Install the two thin profiled stringers on the lower sides. Figure #13 The length of each extrusion will be different depending on your baggage door configuration. We suggest starting with the left side extrusion. Place the extrusion in to the front slot, then work your way toward the rear of the airframe. Set the extrusion on each airframe tap and clamp at each tab. The extrusion will need to be bent in two locations, one at the front and the other at the rear. These bends are required so that the extrusion will not rub on the airframe. See Figures #13‐ #14 for bend location examples. Figure #14
Figure #15 To make the required bends, it is suggested to use two blocks of wood , a table with a straight edge & a clamp. Place the two blocks of wood between the extrusion and then clamp in to position. Slide the extrusion through the blocks until the marked location is at the edge of the table. Hold down the back end of the extrusion so to keep the extrusion from sliding. Slowly push down on the extrusion to make the required bend, as shown in Figure #15.
Figure #16 NOTE: The blocks will ensure that the extrusion will not roll over when you put some pressure down on to the extrusion to bend. Figure #16 shows an example on how to bend the ex‐ trusion with the blocks in place.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #38
Figure #17 By just placing a small amount of pressure down on the extrusion you can create the needed bend in it, as shown in Figure #17.
Side stringers install
Drill a hole at the tail end of both extrusion, center the hole Figure #18 and measure 1/8” from the end then drill using a #36 drill bit.
When installing each extrusion place them in to the front slot first, then clamp on top of each tab. Drill at each tab location with the #36 drill bit and secure with AN526C 440‐ 8 screws & Ms21044N04 locknuts.
Note: When drilling in very tight angles it may be easier to drill out the hard to reach holes with a very long drill bit, as shown in Figure #18.
Take a scrap piece of extrusion and cut it to a length that Figure #19 would slightly pull the rear stringers toward the center of the airframe. On our air craft we measured a length of 5” cut the extrusion and file each end.
Measure from each end of the short extrusion 2/8” mark a center hole, then drill out two holes using a #36 drill bit, as shown in Figure #19.
Place the short extrusion on to the top of the two rear stringers. Place two AN526c 440‐8 screws in each end of the short extrusion then through the longer extrusion. Se‐ cure using a MS21044N04 Locknut.
Determine where the stringers intersect the tubes when Figure #20 they are straight all along the airframe. Mark the position, move the stringers out of the way, and wrap the tubes with black electrical tape to protect them.
Double wrap lockwire around each side as seen in Figure #20 This will hold everything secure. You can use 0.032” lockwire to secure these items. Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #39
Vertical fin radius install Figure #73 Find the Vertical fin radius or other wise known as “Saddle” item #F79 prime and paint this item.
Noticed the hole in the middle of the saddle. This hole is to be placed over the Jack Screw location. If ever you need to remove the Jack Screw you would remove it though this hole. Mark a center line at the front bottom of the saddle, then measure 2/8” from the end mark as shown in Figure #73 Then use a 1/8” drill bit to drill this location.
Figure #74 Place the saddle on to the top of the center stringer. We suggest to find a pipe or dowelling that would fit in the Jack Screw hole to help center the saddle over this hole, as shown in Figure #74.
When centered, drill a 1/8” hole through the top of the Figure #75 stringer. This hole only needs to be slightly deeper then the CCP‐44 pop rivet, as shown in Figure #75.
Figure #76 Install the rivet then secure the rear side of the saddle with a AN526C 440‐8 screw and use a MS21044N04 locknut, as shown in Figure #76. The screw head and locknut must be tight enough that when installing the aircraft skin that they will not poke though, as shown in Figure #77.
Figure #77 Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #40
Figure #78 shows a top view of the airframe floor board Figure #78 map and how the boards are placed on the airframe. There are five pieces that come with your kit. The ¼” plywood floor boards have been each precisely cut using our CNC Router. Plywood can be easily be marked & water stained so take great care when handling. You need to treat this wood with some sort of finish. This is your choice and you need to imagine the end result, how you want the airplane to look. You can paint what ever color, leave clear, or even use these floor boards as a pattern and make the floor out of a different material. (Carbon Fiber)
For the sample airplane we used an automotive style clear coat that was sprayed on. We achieved a nice gloss look by using multiple coats. Between each coat, lightly sand (400 to 600 grit) and then tack cloth off. Because we used a two part clear coat, the drying time was only about 30 min. be‐ tween coats. This takes a day to do, but only requires a few minutes during each coat. Make sure you test fit your floor boards in the airframe before you spend time and product (money) to make sure everything fits. The front two boards sit at a lower level. The back two boards sit in the baggage bay area, and the middle board overlaps the front baggage board slightly. The rear seat board gets attached to the front baggage board with a piano hinge later during final assembly.
Go ahead and set these boards in to place (after you are done whatever finish you are doing to them). Starting from the back, Lay the front and rear baggage boards in to place, as shown in Figure #79.
Figure #79 Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #41 Figure #80 Using a 3/16 drill bit, you need to drill 3 holes evenly spaced down the left and right side of each board. You are drilling through the wood into the steel tray that supports the bag‐ gage bay. You need to measure how far the steel goes in under the wood boards, and then half that amount. That should be the distance you should drill your holes in from the edge of the board. Locations shown in Figure #80.
Use 18 x 10‐32x1” machine screws and 18 x AN365‐1032A lock nuts. It is recommend that as you drill each hole, drop a screw through the hole before drilling the next one. You don’t need to tighten them up until you are done drilling, but this will keep the floor board from shifting around while drilling. When you are ready to tighten the screws, be careful to only make them snug. Don’t tighten too much where the head of the screw starts to sink through the wood. Place only a small amount of force on the screws, so do not over tight.
Figure #81 shows 2 screws at each end on the rear board Figure #81 and two screws at the back end of the front baggage board. There are not screws at the front of the front bag‐ gage floor board. We will get to that later on in the man‐ ual.
Before installing any of the other floor boards, it is recom‐ mended to check for a correct fit of the front seat’s lower frame. Doing this now, will make it much easier to access the seat frame securing point locations.
Center the seat base tubes in to the four slots that support them. Make sure the seat base is pushed down as far as possible in to the tabs and centered left to right. If you find one of the legs is off from the rest, average out the legs the best you can. Unfortunately, steel tends to move slightly as it is welded. Once all four legs are in position, drill through the holes in the seat legs using a 3/16” drill bit. It works best to drill through one side of the tube and then go around to the other side. Slide a pin in to the first hole you just drilled as you drill the other side. This pin will hold the tube from shifting. When you get through the other side, remove the pin and run the drill bit through the other side. This will clean out and align the holes for the bolt. Repeat this on all four holes. Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #42
As each hole is drilled, insert 4 x AN3‐12A bolts. If you find the holes too tight, go ahead and clean the hole out with a #11 drill bit. Once all four holes are drilled, remove the bolts and the seat base.
Using a ¼” x 20 tap (hardware store) clean out the threads Figure #82 (remove paint) in the left & right torque tube travel stops. This is located at the rear torque tube saddle and is de‐ signed to stop the stick when full travel is used left & right on the control stick. Make sure you start the tap square in the holes and the tap needs to line up with the threads that are already there, as shown in Figure #82.
Install 2 – ¼” x 20 x 1 ¼” long bolts. They need to be Figure #83 threaded the full length of the bolt. Each bolt gets a ¼” plain nut as seen in Figure #83. These are just regular hardware store bolts.
Set the #2 floor board in to place and then reinstall the Figure #84 seat base. Put the four bolts back in to the holes. Then 4 x AN960‐10 washers (one against nut) and 4 x AN365‐1032A lock nuts, as shown in Figure #84. Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #43 Figure #85 Find the 4 rudder pedals item #F25, the two hole mounting plates item #F31 & 4 rudder return springs Part # D346000 (Wag‐Aero Part #). Place the return springs on the rudder pedals as shown in Figure #85.
Use Lubriplate No. 630‐AA Aircraft Spruce part number 09‐ Figure #86 25400 (14 oz. can) and a acid brush (you can get the brush at any hardware store). Apply the lithium grease to the rotation point surfaces on each pedal.
It is recommend to check the fit of the front floor board. Center the #2 floor board left to right. Using a 3/16” drill bit you can drill up in to the rudder tabs (all of the rudder tabs already holes in them). Place a block of wood on top of the floor board to minimize any possible splintering dur‐ ing the drilling process. Drill up from the bottom, through the bracket on each side of the pedal. After the first hole has been drilled, place a 2 hole mounting plate item #F31 & AN3‐7A bolt through the hole from the top down. Re‐ check to see that the floor board is still centered and square in the opening, drill next hole. Carry on until all 8 holes are drilled.
NOTE: You are drilling up through wood. Too much up pres‐ sure on the drill will cause the wood to break out as it breaks through the top. Let the drill bit do the work, meaning you can run the RPM of the drill fast but your upward feed rate is Figure #87 to be slow.
Remove the front floor board. Starting with the left pedal, drop the pedal down through the notch in the floor board as seen in Figure #87. Turn the pedal to 90 degrees to the left so it faces the direction it should when complete. The top of pedal should be resting on the floor board (careful it doesn’t scratch). Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #44 Figure #88 Apply Lubriplate grease to the two ends that will be rotat‐ ing in the saddles item #F26 & apply a light coat of grease to each saddle, as shown in Figure #88.
At each hole location place a AN3‐7A bolt through the two Figure #89 hole rudder pedal tab& through the floorboard. Then raise the rudder pedal upward, you will need to pry the pedal’s spring back and place one end of the saddle through the bolt, place a AN960‐10 washer on the bolt and complete with a AN365‐1032A lock nut.
Note: If you have a helper handy, the installation of this assembly will be much easier with a second set of hands to help hold the assembly together.
Repeat previous steps for the right side pedal.
To secure the 2nd front floor board drill from the underside of the floorboard, the four tab locations using a 3/16” drill bit. Remember to use the block of wood to reduce any possible chip out or splintering.
Figure #90 At the rear two holes place a 10‐32 x 1” screw through a AN970‐3 penny washer, as shown in Figure #90. Place the screw through the top of the floor board then through the metal tab. (The penny washer is required due to the slight direction change to the floor board.)
Figure #91 Then place a AN365‐1032A nylock nut on the bottom of each bolt. Example shown in Figure #91. Section AF03B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #45
Front Floor Board Figure #92 Set the front floor boards in place. Drill the two back holes after you have everything positioned and centered. 3/16” drill again with 2 x 10‐32 x 1” machine screws, 2 x AN970‐3 penny washers, and 2 x AN365‐1032A locknuts. Just put the nuts on the bottom finger tight (a few threads). These are going to hold the board in position as we do more work to it.
Tip up the front of the front floor board slightly (no more Figure #93 than you need to) and slide in the brake reinforcement plate item #F30. Align the plate’s holes to match the holes in the floor board. The plate should be flush with the be‐ ginning edges of the two outside brake pedal holes, as shown in Figure #93.
Front Rudder Pedals Figure #94 The front rudder pedals will be an exact duplicate installa‐ tion process as the rear rudder pedal install.
To place the front pedals in place just lift up the front of the floor board to slide the pedals in position, as shown if Fig‐ ure #94. Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Pulleys & Cables –Page #46
Figure #95 Place the airframe on two saw horses. Make sure that the pulley tabs along the bottom of the frame do not hit the saw horses. It’s suggested to place a clean rag under the back of the frame where it rests on the saw horse to reduce any possible scratching. Location for a rag or towel shown in Figure #95.
Clean out all 3/16” holes on the airframe with a ream tool. Figure #96 Make sure that you run the reamer as square (90 degrees) as possible you do not want to enlarge these holes but to just clean any excess paint, example shown in Figure #96.
The cables should go in place before many of the pulleys are installed. However, we are going to pre‐fit all of the pulleys first. This may seem like a waist of time. But we don’t want to risk damaging a cable while trying to adjust a pulley. So, fit each pulley first & make sure that it spins freely before installing the cable. If a bolt calls for a castle nut, DON’T put the cotter pin in yet! Once you have fitted and tried each pulley, then you may install the cable.
Figure #97 shows a map of the five 2 3/4” pulleys in the flap system.
Figure #97 Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Pulleys & Cables –Page #47
Figure #98 The 2 3/4” pulleys usually work without any needed adjust‐ ments. You will also notice that there is a tab at each loca‐ tion that keeps the cable from slipping off the pulley. You will need to make sure that the cable is in the pulley groove as you install the pulley, as shown in Figure #98.
The order of assembly for four out of the five pulleys will be to first place a AN970‐5 large penny washer through a AN5‐16A bolt, then run the bolt through a 2 3/4” pulley and then through the air frame’s bushing. Place two AN960‐ 516 washers on the end of the bolt and complete with a AN365‐524A locknut.
The lower left side pulley will need to be assembled differ‐ Figure #99 ently. The bolt will have to be placed in from the inside out so that you will be able to replace latter on with out having to damage the aircraft’s fabric. To install the pulley place the AN5‐16A bolt through the bushing, the threads of the bolt should be pointing outward. Then place the 2 3/4” pulley on to the bolt, place a AN970‐5 large washer on the bolt and complete with a AN365‐524A locknut. Example shown in Figure #99.
Figure #100 Sub‐assemble the top elevator bracket item #F11 to the turnbuckle on item #C5 use a AN3‐5A Bolt, AN960‐10 washer, then a AN310‐3 Castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin.
The bottom elevator bracket item #F12 will be placed on to item #C6 it too will use a AN3‐5A Bolt, AN960‐10 washer, then a AN310‐3 Castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin, assembly shown in Figure #100.
Figure #101 Use a small zip tie and secure both the top and bottom brackets to the end of the airframe as shown in Figure #101. Rest the cables along the lower center of the air‐ frame and up toward the torque tube. Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Pulleys & Cables –Page #48
There are two sets of two pulleys that carry these cables. The bronze bushings should be reamed out with a #11 Figure #102 (0.091”) drill that allows them to freely spin on a AN3 bolt. The cables lie between the brackets before the pulleys go in (after you have already pre‐fit the pulleys). Install each set of two pulleys with one AN3‐12 bolt, one AN960‐10 washer on the head. Slide the bolt through the bracket and pulleys and install another AN960‐10 washer and a AN310‐3 castle nut. Install a Ms24665‐132 (1/16” x ½”) cotter pin, as shown in Figure #102.
Place the longest cable through the rear torque tube base Figure #103 & then through the small around hole at the front side of the base. The example in Figure #103 shows the front base facing forward.
Figure #104
Then place a fairlead in to the torque tube base, as shown in Figure #104.
Run the cable under the front floor board, then loop the cable around a 2 ¾” pulley. Place the end of the cable on the top of the front floor board. Use a AN5‐10 Bolt with a Figure #105 AN960‐516 washer on the head of the bolt. Thread the bolt through the airframe and place a 2 ¾” pulley through the bolt, then thread the bolt through the other end of the airframe bracket. Place a AN960‐516 washer on the bolt, then place a AN310‐5 castle nut on the end of the bolt, place a MS24665‐138 cotter pin at the end of the bolt. Then use a MS24665‐138 cotter pin and place it through the pulley’s bracket. Assembly shown in Figure #105. Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Torque Tube Assembly –Page #49
Install a 1” pulley on the bottom of the control stick torque tube, item #F19 . Place a AN3‐7 bolt through a AN960‐10 Figure #106 washer then run the bolt through the one side of the torque tube bracket. Place a 1” pulley between the pulley brackets & run the bolt all the way through the other side. Place a AN960‐10 washer on the end of the bolt and spin on a AN310‐3 castle nut. Place a MS24665‐132 cotter pin through the bolt and bend. Place the front cable between the pulley’s brackets and use a MS24665‐132 cotter pin to keep the cable from falling out.
Note: Ensure to have the pulley at the rear of the tube as shown in Figure #106.
Lubriplate the front & rear torque tube saddles, as shown Figure #107 in Figure #107.
Place the torque tube in the saddles. The front saddle will Figure #108 fit in between the two collars of the torque tube. The two collars will keep the torque tube from any unwanted sliding from front to back. Figure #108 shows a close up shot of the two welded collars.
Lubriplate the top covers for each saddle and set them in place, as shown in Figure #109 & #110. Figure #109 Figure #110 Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Torque Tube Assembly –Page #50
At all the four bolt hole locations place a AN4‐14A bolt Figure #111 through a AN960‐416 washer, run the bolt through the torque tube saddle and place a AN365‐428A locknut on the end of the bolt.
Figure #112 Place the control stick connecting rod item #F20 through the torque tub, as shown in Figure #112.
Clean the attachment points of the control stick pivots, Figure #113 item #F22 with a 1/4” ream. Some power coat paint may have built up in these areas. Slide a AN4‐23 bolt in each attachment point to check to see if it pivots freely. Place a AN4‐23 bolt through a AN960‐416 washer place one of the control stick pivots in to the torque tube and thread the bolt though it, as shown in Figure #113. Place another AN960‐416 washer on the end of the bolt, then thread on a AN310‐4 castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐134 cotter pin. Figure #114 Repeat the same steps for the rear control stick pivot.
Place the front elevator cable connecting point to the con‐ trol stick connecting rod item #F20, then place the control stick pivot item #F22 over the two other items. You will see by the spacing of the metal on each piece, there is only one way these three parts can connect together in order to be centered, as shown in Figure #114. Place a AN24‐14 clevis bolt through the aligned holes, then a AN960‐416L Figure #115 washer, spin on a AN320‐4 shear nut and complete the assembly with a MS24665‐281 cotter pin.
The assembly for the rear of the torque tube will be the exact same process. Figure #115 shows the rear assembly fully assembled. Section AF02 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Cables Installation –Page #51
Rudder Cables Figure #116 The rudder cables consist of a left and right that are identi‐ cal. They have a long and a short length cable that are crimped together. This allows for the double rudder pedal connection, final assembly shown in Figure #116.
Take a AN3‐5 bolt and place a AN960‐10 washer through Figure #117 it. Run the bolt from the inside of the rudder pedal through the pedal and place a AN960‐10 washer on the end of the bolt then place the rudder cable attachment point through the bolt, use another AN960‐10 washer, spin on a AN310‐3 castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin. Assembly example shown in Figure #117.
Repeat this assembly for the other three rudder pedals.
Figure #118 When all four pedals are attached, run the cables from the rear rudder pedal & place each cable between the 1 ¾” pul‐ ley tabs, shown in Figure #118. Then through the four lower airframe bushings, two per side.
Figure #119 Secure both rudder cables to the tail post with zip ties, as shown in Figure #119.
Section AF02 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Cables Installation –Page #52
Figure #120 Then install the rudder pedal cable fairlead bushings in to the airframe, as shown in Figure #120. Place the fairlead bushings from the front of the airframe to the rear, the medal retainer clip will be on the rear side of the airframe’s bushings.
Note: All fairlead bushings will be orientated the same way through out the airframe.
Figure #121 Install a 1 ¾” pulley on each side (left & right cable) which is located at the forward ending point of the baggage com‐ partment floor. Take a AN3‐10 bolt and place a AN960‐10 washer through it. Run the bolt through on side of the pul‐ ley tab and place a 1 ¾” pulley between the tabs. Slide the bolt all the way through and then place two AN960‐10 washers on the end of the bolt, spin on a AN310‐3 castle nut and complete the assembly with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin. An example of the assembly shown in Figure #121 with out cotter pin.
Install a 1 ¾” pulley on each side of the airframe, just Figure #122 above the lower lift strut attachment point. Use a AN3‐7 bolt run a AN960‐10 washer through the bolt then slide the bolt half way through the pulley attachment point then place the 1 ¾” pulley between the tabs. Place a AN960‐10 washer on the end of the bolt, spin on a AN310‐3 castle nut and complete the installation with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin. Example shown in Figure #122. These two pulleys are for the aileron control. The cables for these pulleys will be connected when the wings are attached. The aileron con‐ trol cables run down the lift struts and attach to the bot‐ tom of the torque tube. Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #53
Take a 3/32” drill bit and drill 8 holes through the underside Figure #123 of the brake reinforcement plate item #F30 and though front floor board. Place a block of wood on top of the front floor board and apply downward pressure on the block of wood during the drilling process. This will reduce any un‐ wanted splintering of your floor board. As you drill each hole drop a AN3‐15A bolt through the hole from the top down. The bolts will keep the plate from shifting as you drill the remaining holes, as seen in Figure #123.
When all eight holes have been drilled, remove the four Figure #124 center AN3‐15A bolts. Find the set of two holed mounting plates, item #F31 then place 2 bolts in each plate. Run the bolts with the plates though the top of the front floor board. Then remove the remaining four bolts and repeat the same steps, as shown in Figure #124.
Find the brake pedal spacer blocks item #F29. Notice that Figure #125 two of the blocks have a notch in them. The notch is meant to clear the structural tube of the airframe. Install the blocks on to the bottom of the AN3‐15A bolts, as seen in Figure #125.
Find the heel brake pedals item #F27. At the end of each Figure #126 brake pedal is a 3/16” hole. Clean each of these holes out with a 0.190” drill. Now you can manipulate the brake ped‐ als in to the hole in the floor board. Start with the pedal facing the back of the airframe and upside down as seen in Figure #126. Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #54
Get the first third of the pedal in to the hole and turn the Figure #127 pedal 90 degrees, seen in Figure #127.
When you are finished your pedal should sit in the position Figure #128 shown in Figure #128.
Install 2 brake pedal saddles item #F28 under each pedal Figure #129 as seen in Figure #129. Apply a small amount of lithium grease to the inside of each saddle where the pedal will rotate. Then place a AN960‐10 washer and a AN365‐ 1032A locknut on each bolt. Tighten the nuts making sure the pedals swing freely in the saddles. If for some reason the saddles are too tight and don’t swing, you may need to add a shim between the spacer block and the saddle. A thin washer may do the trick. Make sure it swings freely but don’t make it any looser than you have to.
Now set your rear brake pedal assemblies on the floor. Figure #130 You will notice an angle change on the bottom of the rear pedal assembly. That angle change should be centered over the seam between the first and second floor board, location example shown in Figure #130.
Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #55
Note: Our new kits come with a rod end bearing package. These new items get installed on to the brake connecting rods, they are not required for the older kits but many like the new addition because of the feel and look of the break pedal.
Find the brake connecting rods item #F37 & #F37B rod end bearing package. Assemble the nut on to the threaded ends then run screw on the bearings to each rod. Leave the jam nuts loose at this time, you will have to set the length of each rod before the jam nut can be tighten.
Attach the rod end to the front pedal using a AN3‐7 bolt with an AN970‐3 Penny washer on the head of the bolt. Than an AN960‐3 regular washer, the rod end, the pedal, another AN960‐3 washer and the AN310‐3 Castle Nut. The purpose of the large penny washer is to act as a safety mechanism if the bearing ever failed. The penny washer would keep the body of the rod end from sliding off the bolt.
Repeat the same sequence on the rear pedal to attach the rod end except you will use the next size longer bolt (1 – AN3‐10). Than the penny washer, regular washer, rod end, brake pedal body, regular washer, castle nut. Don’t forget to install a cotter pin in each castle nut when you are fin‐ ished. Figure #131 Once the rods are attached, position the rear brake pedals by sliding them left or right so that the connecting rod is just on the outboard side of the inner two holed tab for each pedal as seen in Figure #131. Remember that the angle change on the bottom of the rear pedal mounting arm has to stay directly over the seam between the first and second floor board. Make sure the rear rudder pedal does not interfere with the operation of the connecting rod.
Make sure that the front brake pedals are swung to the rear (hitting the floor board) of the aircraft before your drill any holes for the rear pedal position. Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #56
When you are certain that your Rear pedals are even and symmetrical from the centerline of the airframe you can drill 3/16” holes through the floor boards through the brake pedal. Only drill the two outside holes and the rear inside hole.
You can see in Figure #132 that the inside front hole may Figure #132 hit the structural tubing. The main idea is to get at least one bolt to go through the mounting plate welded to the airframe. Install a penny washer on the bottom where ever you are able. It may not look pretty on the bottom side but as long as one bolt catches the steel you are OK.
Install a AN3‐10 bolt through each hole with either a penny washer or regular washer (whichever you can get in) and AN365‐1032 locknuts at each bolt.
Reservoir Installation Figure #133 Place the reservoir in a location that is pleasing to you. Some have placed it ahead of the front seat & other have placed it under. In this manual we will install the reservoir under the seat, as shown in Figure #133.
You will now have to cut a small metal plate to hold the Figure #134 reservoir on to. Measure the two holes on the reservoir and mark the measurements on the plate. Leave enough room on the top side of the metal plate to place two holes to secure the metal plate to the inside of the seat frame.
Drill the two holes in to the plate for the reservoir and place 10 32 x3/8” Machine screw through the plate and in to the reservoir.
Place a AN825‐4D Tee fitting in the bottom of the reser‐ voir and have the Tee pointing left and right of the bracket. Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #57
Leave enough room on the upper side of the metal plate so Figure #135 that two holes could be made to secure the metal plate to the inside of the seat frame. Place the reservoir assembly centered above the control stick torque tube and drill two 1/8” holes through the metal plate and in to the seat frame. Use two 1/8” pop rivets to secure to the seat frame. Loca‐ tion shown in Figure #135.
Install two AN822‐4D 90° fittings in to each brake master Figure #136 cylinders. Have the two rear fitting pointing up.
You may now drill out the two holes for the brake lines that will go through the front floor board and in to the gear legs. Have the holes placed well enough so that the lines will not rub the floor board as they go through it.
When the holes are been cut out of the floor board, place a AN822‐4D 90° fitting in to the front of each master cylin‐ ders, an example is shown in Figure #136.
Note: When the fabric covering has been complete and the gear legs have been installed you will be able to measure the length of each needed brake line and have a professional company cut an crimp stainless steel brake lines for you. We found that the length of brake lines needed was about 12” for the brake lines from the reservoir to the rear side of the mas‐ ter cylinder & 28” lines from the gear legs to the front side of the master cylinder.
Measure the distance for each brake line on your aircraft to be safe!!
Section AF07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Gear Leg assembly –Page #58
This section will cover the steps required to make your gear legs ready for fabric covering. Normally gear legs are fab‐ ric covered but some people choose not to cover them, due to the fact that the fabric might get damaged by brush or debris in rough landing areas. You need to decide on the final look of the aircraft and its functionality. People who might decide against fabric on the legs are after a true Bush plane look and feel. In this tutorial we will be running the brake lines inside of the gear legs regardless of your covering decision.
Run the rigid brake line down each main gear leg so that it can be hidden inside the fabric covering of the gear leg. One side will attach to the brake caliper (wheel end) and the other end will attach to a flexible line. This flex line is needed because the gear leg rotates about the two mount‐ ing bolts on the airframe.
All of the following instructions are for one gear leg. Re‐ peat each step for the opposite gear leg (do the same step for each before proceeding to the next step) but remember to mirror each step.
First clean out the two mounting tabs with a #11 ream, as Figure #137 shown in Figure #137.
Ream the power coated paint out of the lower mounting plate’s four holes, take great care that you do not enlarge these holes, as shown in Figure #138. Figure #138 Section AF07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Gear Leg assembly –Page #59
To determine the correct length of the brake lines, you will Figure #139 need to install item #L6 brake calipers first.
Place the mounting plate so that the two bushing face for‐ ward. The four holes in the plate should line up with the gear leg plate. Temporary Install a under sized bolt in one of the four holes to hold the plate in place, as seen in Fig‐ ure #139.
Install a AN822‐4 90 degree elbow in to the caliper. Apply Figure #140 Loctite 545 on to the threads of the elbow before installing. Be sure not to mark up the anodized elbow when installing, as it will be easily seen by many.
The caliper slides in to the mounting plate on the inboard Figure #141 side of the plate, as shown in Figure #141.
Start at the bottom of your gear leg. Use a tubing bender Figure #142 to make a 90 degree bend, leave about 3 inches extra length on the tube than you need to attach to the caliper. It’s better to have extra when making a bend like this and trim some off after the bend has been made. Section AF07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Gear Leg assembly –Page #60
Place the 90° bend toward the caliper’s 90° fitting and measure up to the top of the gear leg. Again leave a few inches extra and cut the brake line. Install two Adel clamps around the brake line. Place screws through the clamps and in to the gear legs weld tabs.
Do not place any nuts on the screw just yet. We just need the brake line to be held in place as you do a measurement from the lower brake line to the 90 degree fittings threads.
Figure #143 Have the excess brake line lay on top of the caliper’s 90 degree fitting. Make a mark on the brake line located just before the 90° threading with a pencil or marker. Remove the brake line from the gear leg and cut the brake line with tubing cutters, as shown if Figure #143.
Install a nut, sleeve and put a flange on the tube. Figure #144
Place the tube back on to the gear leg, use both Adel Figure #145 clamps to hold the brake line in place as before. Place the brake line nut on to the 90 degree fitting finger tight. Section AF07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Gear Leg assembly –Page #61
A 45° bend goes at the top of the gear leg. Determine where you want the 45° bend and the end of the tube. Mark the location on the brake line and remove. Make your 45° bend, cut the brake line and install the other nut and sleeve as shown in previous steps.
If you plan on covering the gear legs the tube can stay where it is. Place the locknut on the ends of each screw and tighten. Cap the ends of the brake lines to prevent any contamination in the lines. It is also a good idea to rap the exposed ends in masking tape to keep them clean during the covering steps.
If you don’t want to cover the gear leg, remove the brake lines. Make sure you label the lines left and right. You can paint the lines separately if you like. How ever it is not ad‐ The final brake line assembly with out fabric cover‐ vised to paint the Adel clamps because the paint will crack ing will look like Figures #146, 147 & 148. off of the rubber later on. Figure #146
The end result after fabric covering will be the brake lines protruding from the fabric at each end as shown in Figures #149 & 150.
Figure #149 Figure #147
Figure #150 Figure #148 Section AF06A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel Valve Modification –Page #62
We are going to do a little modification to the fuel valve Figure #151 (Aircraft Spruce Part # 6749). When you receive this valve take a look at the internal plastic barrel. You can see from the outside (with out taking it apart) that the barrel only has two holes in it. This would only let you select either left tank or right tank, NOT BOTH. You are going to add a third hole to this barrel which will allow a “BOTH TANK fuel feed selection”. You may feel like this is something you shouldn’t be messing with but have no worries. This is very easy to do, and when you are finished it will look like a factory manufactured hole. Figure #152 Lets get the valve out on the bench and begin! First thing is to loosen the nut that holds it together and remove the barrel. You will see a retainer plate (Brass) that needs to stay flat as it comes out. If the barrel is not coming out easily you need to slightly adjust the angle of that plate (only a few degrees) and it should fall out.
Figure #153
Now look inside the valve, you should see three directions Figure #154 the fuel can take. By not adding the third hole to the barrel you would have a left tank, right tank, off & off positions. These would be the four positions as you rotated the valve. Section AF06A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel Valve Modification –Page #63
Hole #3 will be directly across from hole #1, as shown in Figure #155 Figure #155. To create this new hole location place a 19/64” drill bit in to hole #1 and drill from the inside out .
Take your time when drilling out this hole, the plastic is Figure #156 very soft and it should drill very easily. As you drill, do your best to keep the sides of the bit from touching hole #1.
Take a 3/8” drill bit and re‐drill the hole. Figure #157
Using a needle file carefully file the edges of the new hole. Figure #158 File inward strokes going around the hole. The idea is that when you are done, your hole will look just like the other two.
When you are finished filing, completely clean the valve of any bits of plastic. Wipe it down, inside and out. You can use compressed air gun to blow out any possible filings. The bottom line is to remove any debris from going inside the fuel system.
Reassembly the valve and tighten the nut back up. Section AF06B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel System –Page #64
The fuel system will have four suction lines to it. One from the front and one from the back of each wing tank. This allows the aircraft to suck fuel in a nose up attitude (from the back line) or a nose down attitude (from the front line). Having these two feeds from each tank will eliminate a “header tank” requirement which original Piper’s used.
Place two elbows & two tee’s in to the fuel valve. They will hit the airframe tubes if you try to screw them in after the valve is mounted. Place some sealant on the threads of all the fuel fittings that don’t accept a flanged tube. We rec‐ ommend Loctite 545 as a good sealant. Use just a few drops of Loctite to cover the threads on the male side of your connections. After the two elbows and two tees are in place (hold the valve up to the airframe to see if any valves could hit the airframe tubing. Make any needed adjust‐ ments needed to the tees. To secure the fuel selector valve in place, use two AN3‐4A bolts and run them from the in‐ side of the airframe out to the fuel selector the use a AN960‐10 washer on each bolt and complete with AN365‐ 1032A locknuts, as shown in Figure #159. Figure #159
Figure #160 shows the fuel switch parts map. Figure #160 The fuel switch will use.
1x Fuel valve P/N 6747 5x Nuts 2x AN825‐6D Tees 1x AN822‐6D Elbow 1x AN914‐2D Elbow Section AF06B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel System –Page #65
It is suggested to run all of your fuel lines before making Figure #161 any connections. It would be a waste of time if you flared the tubing and ending up kinking the line as you are bend‐ ing them. Figure #161 shows a map of where the fuel line are to be connected and routed from the fuel switch.
Figure #162 shows the fuel line routing. The BLUE line is Figure #162 the right side fuel line, the RED is the left side fuel line & the arrows indicate where to install the Adel clamps.
Route the rear fuel lines under the center of the airframe, Figure #163 toward the drain plug location, as shown in Figure #163.
Along the lower left side of the airframe there will be a Figure #164 mounting bracket for the fuel drain tees. Install two AN825‐6D tees facing front to back in the bracket, secure the tees to the airframe with AN924‐6D bulkhead nuts. Place AN910‐2D couplings on the bottom of each tee, then place the CAV‐160 safe‐air drains in to each coupling, as shown in Figure #164. Loctite each joint.
Section AF06B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel System –Page #66
Route the fuel lines back around the left side of the air‐ Figure #165 frame, as shown in Figure #165.
To secure the left side fuel lines, butterfly the adel clamps Figure #166 together P/N MS21919WDG6, use two 10‐32 truss head S/S screws & two 10‐32 locknuts on each Adel clamp. In‐ stall the truss head screws pointing toward the cabin shown in Figure #166.
The fuel lines will now split off left & right up to the wing. Figure #167 Place two Adel clamps along both side diagonal weld tube tabs. Use four 10‐32 truss head S/S screws & four 10‐32 locknuts on each Adel clamp. Install the truss head screws pointing toward the cabin as shown in Figure #167.
When routing the fuel lines, ensure that no fuel line rubs or Figure #168 chafes against anything. Figure #168 shows an area where the fuel line is very close to rubbing on the pulley bolt. Make sure that the lines are secure and if needed cable tie them together.
Section AF06B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel System –Page #67
When securing fuel lines to the airframe you may use zip Figure #169 ties. You will need two zip ties for each fuel line. The first zip tie will be loosely tied around the airframe tube then the second zip tie will go around the fuel line and through the 1st zip tie. Then tighten both ties together. This proc‐ ess will eliminate any possible rubbing between the fuel lines and the airframe. An example is shown in Figure #169.
Figure #170 Figure #170 shows the routing of the two front fuel lines. You may use a single zip tie in different locations to secure the fuel line to the airframe.
Figure #171 The left side fuel line has a very sharp bend in it, be very careful not to kink the fuel line in the area shown in Figure #171.
Figure #172 When routing the two front fuel lines leave about two inches running parallel with the bottom of the wing. End these about even with the front and rear wing pickup fit‐ tings. Plug the ends of these tubes 04‐0049 plugs and tape over, to ensure no debris could get in to them during the covering process, as shown in Figure #172.
When you are satisfied with the lengths and bends in your tubes, flare the ends. Remember that before you make a flare, make sure you slide the nut and then the sleeve on. You do not Loctite these connections. The sleeve com‐ presses the aluminum flared tube and makes a tight seal. Don’t over tighten these. Make them snug but not super tight. Section AF11 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Battery Cables & Ground wire –Page #68
The preferred position to mount your battery is under the rear seat. You can mount the battery in other locations, but this section will describe the under seat location. With today's COl ignition systems (electronic) and the glass pan‐ eled display options available we have noticed that it is better to run a separate negative line direct from the bat‐ tery forward to a bus located under the instrument panel instead of using the airframe as a ground.
The under seat storage box seen in Figure #173 is an extra Figure #173 option not included with the kit. You can build your own or buy one from us. Our battery box kit comes with three ex‐ tra pieces that make up the battery box. The battery can be mounted on either side of the box. We designed the battery box to hold an Odyssey Gel Cell Battery (Aircraft Spruce P/N# 1102233). It is a 68O AMP battery that will supply more than sufficient for power for your aircrafts applications. The displayed battery is sealed so you can lay it on it's side and not need to worry about any needed venting. Figure #174 shows our battery on its Figure #174 side.
There is also room beside the battery to mount a constant duty solenoid (Aircraft Spruce # 111226) as shown in Fig‐ ure #175. This allows you to shut off all battery power which you can control from a battery "Master" switch lo‐ cated in the instrument panel. (Aircraft Spruce # 11‐ 15900) and the mounting plate (Aircraft Spruce # 1115910). This is a Cessna style split switch that allows you Figure #175 to control the battery master solenoid on one half of the switch and the alternator field circuit on the other half of the switch. Section AF11 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Battery Cables & Ground wire –Page #69
Figure #176 When routing the wiring from the battery box location, we found that the best way to start the wires is from the bat‐ tery box going forward under the floor boards toward the firewall. You can see in Figure #176 this airframe used the frame as a ground. Make two runs of the #2 gauge wire leaving about 12" extra wire where you think each wire will end. Route the wire toward the center of the airframe, then down along right side of the stringer. Running the ground wire in this matter will maximize the amount of room needed to not touch the fabric. Route 3 runs of #14 gauge wire and secure them with the 2 #2 gauge wire. Use zip ties to secure the wires as you go. When cutting the zip ties pay particular attention to the cut ends make sure that when you cut the excess tie off that no sharp edges could possibly contact the fabric locations. Do you best to cut the ties flush! Figure #177
When securing the wires you want to isolate the wire from the steel tube. An example of this is seen in Figure #177 showing the use of two tie wraps. First the tie wrap goes around the steel tube but it is not pulled tight. This allows you to get the second tie wrap around the wire (or in this photo tubing) and through the first tie wrap. Tighten the tie wrap around the wire first, then the tie wrap around the steel tube. This method keeps the wire or tubing from chaffing (rubbing) against the steel tube and causing elec‐ trical shorts or failures.
You may notice some steel tabs under the airframe by the front seat, you could use the tabs to secure the electrical cabling to them, or use zip ties and secure the cables to the airframes tubs as shown in the previous step. The main idea is to ensure no rubbing, chaffing could ever happen! Keep the cabling as close to the airframe as possible you don’t want to see them protruding out and touching the fabric. Figure #178
Place the electrical wiring along the right side center of the airframe until you get just past the location of where your side cheek meets with the boot cowl. Run the wires over to the right side of the airframe, they will go around the bot‐ tom of the lower longeron (On the outside) and run straight up and over the outside of the top longeron. Fig‐ ure #178 shows the electrical harness coming out of the lower front as described. Section AF11 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Battery Cables & Ground wire –Page #70
The arrow pointing in Figure #179 shows that there is Figure #179 enough space between the airframe and the boot cowl to allow you to run the wires on the outside of the airframe. Secure the wire to the steel tubes using zip ties. Leave enough wire to reach over and touch the left upper longeron so that you won't be short reaching anywhere on the electrical control panel.
Wiring diagram is shown on the next page. The diagram Figure #180 shows the requirement to make 2 runs from the battery positive & Negative to a Positive & Negative Buss bar lo‐ cated behind the instrument panel. The master solenoid will get placed in the battery box with a 14 gauge wire run‐ ning from the solenoid to the master switch on the instru‐ ment panel as shown in Figure #180. It is also a good idea to run a couple extra 14 gauge lines from the battery box to the panel for any possible future use. An example would be if you want to have a constant power line to run a clock or a cigarette lighter socket to power any hand held elec‐ Figure #181 tronics.
When you are complete with this section, you should have 5 wires (2 ‐ #2 Gauge & 3 ‐ #14 Gauge) running from the battery box location to the rear side of the instrument panel. Make sure that to leave an extra 12" at each end. Now just secure the loose ends to the frame so they don't get in the way during the covering process. Section AF11 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Battery Cables & Ground wire –Page #71 Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #72
Introduction Figure #182 This section has been created for those who has purchased our interior panel kit. Those who have chosen not to buy this kit, the proceeding steps will still be a major help when fitting your created panels in to place.
Place the left front side panel in to position. Start by slid‐ Figure #183 ing the panel between the floor board and airframe. At this point you will need to mark a center hole location for the fuel switch. The size of the hole for the switch will vary depending on the size and type of switch you have chosen. Figure #183 shows where we drilled the fuel switch hole.
After you have drilled out the needed hole, place the panel Figure #184 back in to the airframe. Check to see that the front edge of the panel runs parallel with the front airframe tube, check the fit of the panel around each welded corner of the air‐ frame, these areas may require the interior panel to be filed to fit. When the panel sits flat & square against the airframe, secure the panel using either spring clamps or rare earth magnets to the airframe. You want to make sure that the panel will not shift around when you are about to drill out the needed holes. Use a #30 drill bit and drill through the tab and through the panel at each attach‐ ment point. Place a cleco in to each hole right after you have drilled, as shown in Figure #184.
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #73
Take the second left side panel and fit it in place. You may Figure #185 need to trim out the top front corner of the panel so that it will fit flat around the door frame. Depending on if you have a single door aircraft or you have ordered a duel door, the following steps will change slightly. A two door aircraft will require some trimming around the door frame. Place the panel flat against the airframe and mark around the door frame with a magic marker, as shown in Figure #185. The lower rear line will be drawn straight pass the rear side of the door frame. Remove the panel from the aircraft. Measure 3/8” out from Figure #186 the outlined mark that you just drawn and mark the new measurement on your panel. This new measurement is to enlarge the opening for your door. The larger opening is needed so that the panel will fit in the door frame channel after the panel has been fabric covered. Use a straight edge to connect your new measurements. When you have created the second new set of lines cut the unwanted ma‐ terial out of the panel & file any sharp edges.
Place the panel back in to the airframe again to check for correct fit, you may need to file the panel to fit around the Figure #187 welded corners, make any needed trimming to the panel for that perfect fit. Place the panel under the door frame channels when complete.
Drill through the tab holes and in to the panel, place clecos Figure #188 in the drilled locations after each hole has been drilled. Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #74
To connect the 1st & 2nd panels together, measure from Figure #189 the top of the throttle post 3/4” and mark. Then measure from the bottom of the throttle post 3/4” and place a mark. Measure 6” down from your 2nd marked location & place a mark, then mark a location 3/4” from the top of the flap control tube. Then measure from the bottom of the panel up 1 1/4” & mark. Have all of your marks centered along the safety edge of the 1st panel. Use a 1/8” drill bit to drill each location, cleco each hole after drilling as shown in Figure #189.
Take your lower rear panel and fit in to position. If you Figure #190 have a baggage door option you will need to trim the panel around the door channel to fit. Figure #190 shows the panel trimmed around the baggage door. Hold the panel in place and mark around the frame. Cut & file the panel to fit. Place the panel back in position & hold in place. Drill each tab locations & cleco in place.
Take the 4th left side panel, carefully place it in to the air‐ Figure #191 frame. Check the fit of the panel around the welded areas and mark any area that is needed to be filed or cut down. If you have a baggage door option then trace out the door opening as shown in Figure #191. Remove the panel from the airframe, then measure .6” around the traced area. The .6” enlargement is needed so that the panel can fit around the baggage door frame and allow the interior fab‐ ric to be wrapped around the panel. Use a straight edge to connect your new measurements, then cut out the bag‐ gage door hole. Figure #192
It is suggested to drill out the four corners of your baggage door cut out with a drill bit. The drilled holes should be large enough so that it would allow a pair of snips to start cutting the hole. When drilling the four holes make sure that the drill bit doesn’t go past your .6” line. Use a pair of snips to cut out the unwanted material. Take your time cutting out the baggage door opening. File any sharp edges when complete, as shown in Figure #192. Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #75
Place the panel back in to the aircraft and check for fit. Figure #193 When you are satisfied with the fit, drill and place clecos in to each tab.
Place the 3rd left side panel in to position. The rear side of Figure #194 the panel will fit under the 4th panel’s small step. The for‐ ward side of the 3rd panel will slide just under the door frame channel. You will only want about 3/8” of the panel to be under the door frame channel. Having the panel fit too tight against the door frame channel will make it very difficult to fit the panel back in place when it is fabric cov‐ ered. Look over the panel to see if any area needs to be trimmed. When you are satisfied with the fit of the panel drill through the tabs and through the panel. Place clecos in each hole after drilling.
Figure #195 To secure the lower portion of the 3rd & 4th panels you will need to drill through the lower steel bracket and through the panels. When placing the measurements along the lower steel frame, measure no lower then 1/4” from the top edge down of the steel frame. Any lower, the timberman nuts that you will be using will not fit correctly. When measuring the distance between the hole locations we sug‐ gest to place the holes parallel to the holes above as shown in Figure #195.
Drill and place clecos in each hole. Figure #196 Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #76
From the inside of the airframe place 3 marks along the Figure #197 bent channel. Have the holes evenly spaced and a 1/4” along the edge of the panel to allow the timberman nuts to fit in. Place clecos in the drilled holes as shown in Figure #197.
Figure #198 The right side panels will be installed using the same steps. The only difference is the 3rd & 4th panels will not have the small step between them. Install the front panel first then work your way toward the back, fit, drill then cleco each panel. Depending on what size door frames you have or‐ dered you may need to enlarge the hole in the panel to fit around the door frame. The airframe shown in Figure #198 has the oversized door frame as you can see our standard interior panel will need to be trimmed to fit.
If you have a right side baggage door trace out the door Figure #199 area and enlarge the opening .6”. The drawn enlarged area is displayed in Figure #199. The rest of the right side pan‐ els will follow the same steps as the left side.
C Window frame install
Figure #200 To install the upper interior panels for the C window style airframe you will first find the multi cut trim strips. Clamp the lower strips in place and mark the support rail location. Remove the strip and cut out the unwanted material. Fig‐ ure #200 shows the trim strip cut to fit. Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #77
The outer side of the trim strips will fit inside the metal Figure #201 channel as shown in Figure #201. When both window trim strips are cut to fit clamp both top and bottom of each strip.
Mark a center hole in the upper airframe tabs there will be Figure #202 a total of 7 taps that will need to be drilled with a #30 drill bit.
The upper interior panels go together like Lego. Do not Figure #203 start drilling any of the panels until the back, top & sides are in place. The 1st panel you need to install will be the top rear panel. You can use tape to hold in place for the time being. Then the top panel will fit under the rear panel, check for correct fit around the upper airframe. Use tape or magnets to hold the top panel in place. Install the side panels last. Figure #203 shows the panels secured with tape.
When all four panels are in place allow the rear top panel to Figure #204 lean forward to but the ends of the side panels. The lower end of the rear panel will be secured to the airframe but the upper side will only be secured to the top panel along the fold. An example of how it should look is shown in Figure #204. Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #78
When the side panels have a nice fit around the rear and Figure #205 top panel drill the tab locations and cleco both sides to hold in place. Then have a helper push up on the top panel and drill through the tab holes and through the panel, cleco each hole to secure the panel. Then drill three holes along the bottom of the rear panel and cleco to hold the panel in place. Place four evenly spaced marks along the top rear panel. These four locations will secure the rear panel to the top of the top panel. Drill and cleco each mark. Figure #205 shows the clecos installed.
Mark the excess material around both window frames. Figure #206 Remove the side panels and trim out the unwanted mate‐ rial.
Find the front wing root cover plates and tape on to the Figure #207 airframe, then place the side window frame covers in place. We used rare earth magnets to hold the covers in place as shown in Figure #207. You will have to do a bit of trimming around the side window panels to have them fit perfectly.
Place the wind root covers in to position check around the Figure #208 welded tubes for any fit issues mark and trim any areas needed. The bottom end of the panel will fit around the door frame channel.
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #79
The last panel to fit will be the top over head panel shown Figure #209 in Figure #209. You will have to cut out the seatbelt bracket hole and make any necessary filing to have the panel to fit correctly. When you are happy with the over all fit of the wing root covers, side window frame covers and top rear cover fit drill each trim tabs and cleco in to place.
Label all of the interior panels with a magic marker. You do not want to waste time trying to figure out what panel needs to go where latter on. Remove all the panels and store in a safe place where they will not get dented or scratched up.
You could go directly in to covering these panels if that is what you would like to do. This process will be covered latter on in our manual. Section WG02 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #80
Figure #210 You may find the bolts are a bit stiff, if so it is recom‐ mended you turn the head with a wrench while pushing the back of the bolt with a smaller pin. This will walk the bolt out of the hole without the necessary use of force. Once all of the bolts are ready to be removed, gently lift the flap or aileron out of position and place them onto a clean table. You will notice that the nut and bolt are not aircraft grade. These are used for shipping purposes only. You will reuse the washers so store them in a labeled zip lock bag, in a place you will remember. The removal of the hardware is Figure #211 as shown in Figure #210 & #211.
Note: When removing the flaps and ailerons it is recom‐ mended you have two people assist with this step to en‐ sure that the items do not get damaged.
Now we are ready to remove the wings from the shipping Figure #212 stands. Our intention is to place each wing on two saw horses in the normal flight attitude. If you don’t already have saw horses (4) the preferred height is 36”. They also make a wing rotisserie unit but saw horses work for this step.
Prepare an area roughly 17 feet long by 6 feet for each wing. Place the saw horses so the wing will rest on the #1 Root rib & the full tip rib. It is recommended you place an old blanket on top of the saw horse to prevent scratching of the wing. It is also critical to have the saw horses cen‐ tered under a rib to support the weight of the wing. This is 3 person job to remove the wings from the shipping stands. You will need 2 x 1/2” wrenches to remove the nuts first. Then each wing should lift straight up off the shipping stand. The stand is designed so that one wing will rest on the stand without it tipping over. When lifting the wing at the root end you may hold it anywhere along the round spreader bar as shown in Figure #212. At the tip end, if you have a round set of wings, you may pick it up by the bow (it is strong enough to do this.) Section WG02 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #81
Figure #213 If you have a square set of wings grab it by the rib bracing around the front and rear spar as shown in Figure #213. Set the wings on the saw horses. Now you are ready to remove the fuel tank lid.
To remove the tank lid, remove all 15 phillips head screws Figure #214 out of each fuel tank lid, as shown in Figure #214. There will be 6 screws along the front and 4 screws along the back of the fuel tank lid, that are 10‐32 x 3/4”. Then remove the remaining 5 screws along the #5 rib. These screws are 6‐32 x 1/2”. Place these tank lid screws in a labelled zip lock bag & store in a place you will remember.
We recommend before you remove the fuel tanks, take a Figure #208 measurement of the position of the filler neck, (from the #1 root rib and from the front spar) as shown in Figure #208. This is to reposition the fuel tank when re‐installing. Write down the measurements in a note book that you will use in the assembly process. (It is advisable to have a blank note book to record various measurements. Keep this book handy alongside your builder’s log) Section WG03 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #82
Figure #215 Use a 5/32” Hex head wrench (Allen key) to unbolt the top fuel tank straps, as seen in Figure #215. Before laying both of the metal strap onto the wing we recommend laying a soft cloth between the strap and the wing to ensure that the strap doesn’t scratch the wing or the paint on the strap. Once unbolted swing the straps 180 degree by the hinge so that the straps stick out forward of the leading edge. Take the 2 fuel tank strap bolts and place them in the same zip lock bag that you used for the Phillips screws so they won’t get lost.
Now unbolt the steel compression tube that runs through Figure #216 the fuel tank. Remove each of the AN3‐5A bolts and the 10‐32 locknuts with two 3/8” wrenches as shown in Figure #216 & #217.
Figure #217
Note: To remove the black steel compression tube you will Figure #218 need to lift the rear root corner of the tank as you slide the root end of the compression tube upward off the end of the steel tab that it’s attached to. You will need to get the compression tube to slide between the top of the round spreader bar & the bottom of the upper rib extrusion on the #1 rib. You should now slide the tube straight out of the fuel tank as shown in Figure #218. Section WG03 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #83
Figure #219 Lift the fuel tank straight up from the top of the wing. Once the fuel tank is removed replace the steal compres‐ sion tube back in to the wing, as shown in Figure #219. This compression tube is a critical component to ensure that the wing does not sag or come out of shape. Discard the white air‐foam packing that is found between the fuel tank and the tank straps. Replace it with either glue on 1” wide cork board or the recommended 1” wide nylon strap.
Apply anti‐chafe material Pre‐cut nylon straps (1”x .45”) to length to cover the tank side of each tank strap. The top straps need to be sepa‐ rated in two pieces leaving about 1/8” gap on each side of the hinge. The bottom straps are to be done in one piece. The general idea is to separate the fuel tank from the steel straps all the way around.
Take a 1/2” wide brush and cut the bristles with a pair of Figure #220 scissors to half of the factory length (this make a stiffer application tool for applying the gel contact cement). Ap‐ ply the contact cement glue to both the steel fuel tank strap and the nylon strap, as shown in Figure #220. Let the glue flash off (dry until tacky to the touch) for approxi‐ mately 2‐5 minutes.
Bond the nylon strap to the fuel tank strap, as shown in Figure #221 Figure #221. This will be an instant bond, so use caution in aligning the nylon. Once you are happy with the alignment rub your hand over the nylon ensuring a good connection between the two surfaces. Repeat this step for each tank strap. It is recommended you start and complete one strap at a time. Section WG03 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #84
Figure #222 Storing fuel tank for later assembly This is a perfect time to clean out the fuel tanks for stor‐ age. Vacuum the fuel tanks with a regular domestic vac‐ uum (or shop vac) to remove any possible unwanted debris that could be left over from the manufacturing process.
To reach the far corners of each tank, attach a ½” to 1” flexible (vinyl) hose and tape it to the end of your vacuum hose as shown in Figure #222. When trying to remove any unwanted debris, rotate (tilt and shake) the fuel tank in every direction & listen for any audible sound that the de‐ bris could make.
Once this process is complete it is recommended you place each fuel tank in a plastic garbage bag to ensure no dust or any other possible debris could enter the fuel tank.
Now you can store the fuel tanks in a safe place. We will not use them again until the fabric covering is all done.
Installing Landing light lenses Figure #223
Locate the #4 leading edge skin. This is between rib #11 & rib #12 counting from the wing root. On this skin you should see the manufacture’s marker lines. There will be two marked lines, one on top and one on the bottom of the leading edge of the wing. These lines indicate the begin‐ ning of the internal light bracket. The manufactured marked lines are shown in Figure #223. Draw a straight line to connect both of these lines with a magic marker.
Measure the total width of the #4 leading edge skin, then divide the measurement in half. The divided number will be the center of the #4 skin. Use a magic marker and mark the center line for both the top and bottom of the leading edge skin.
Note: The following information is for those who have pur‐ chased the “Landing Light Finishing Kit” item #W22. If you have not purchased the finishing light kit, you will need to create the needed cover and sides. We will show how to make these items in a latter date. Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #85
Find the landing light cover kit and measure the total width Figure #224 of the light cover, then divide the measurement in half. Take the divided measurement and make a center line on the upper & lower sides of the cover, with a magic marker. Then place & hold the cover plate on to the leading edge of the wing. Align the leading edge center line with the light trim cover center line, shown in Figure #224 items #1 & #2. Then align the inside opening of the cover to the manufactures lines, item #3. Make sure you keep the lines square. Draw a line on the outside top and bottom edge, the top edge line is shown in item #4. Then draw a line all the way around the inside opening of the cover. To draw this area have someone assist with holding the light cover, to ensure the cover does not shift during marking.
From each side, measure 3/8” to add extra space. This will Figure #225 make the total cutout area 12” wide. Use the cover plate as a template to draw the second set of out side lines, ensure that your vertical lines are square to the manufactures top & bottom guide line. Example shown in Figure #225.
When you are ready to cut out the landing light skin area, it is highly suggested you cut 3/8” to 1/2” inside of the manu‐ factures guide lines. This will allow you to measure the re‐ maining distance to be removed so that your final cut line is flush with the forward most edge of the internal bracket. Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #86
To cut in to this surface, drill a 1/4” hole (in to the center of Figure #226 your opening) giving you a spot to get a sheet metal snip started in to. Using RED handled snips, cut counter clock‐ wise and Green handled snips to cut clockwise. It is best to cut all the way around the perimeter of your opening stay‐ ing about 1/2” inside the lines. At this point confirm the location of the top and bottom manufactures lines by in‐ serting a ruler just under the leading edge skin, pushing it in until it hits the beginning of the bracket. Once you con‐ firm the top and bottom line and are satisfied with the lo‐ cation of the corners you can drill a hole in each corner with a 1/4” drill bit. Drill your holes so that the radius of the bit creates a rounded corner joining your two intersecting lines. Make a second pass with your snips leaving 1/8” in‐ side the lines and a third final pass on your lines. This will ensure a desirable finish as shown in Figure #226.
Measure 1 1/4” from the manufactured line, both top and Figure #227 bottom, and draw a line on the leading edge. Then place a ruler on this line, put the center line at 6” then make four marks at 2”, 4 1/2”, 7 1/2” and 10” for both top and bottom of the leading edge skin. Example shown in Figure #227.
Drill each marked location with a #40 drill bit. Use a cleco after each hole has been created.
Install both of the side brackets under the leading edge Figure #228 skin. You will notice that these brackets are a bit longer than required, as shown in Figure #228. The brackets will need some trimming for a correct fit. Cut to size and put in to place. The 1/8” drop in height on these brackets should be the only part showing in the opening (3/8” protruding the opening). Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #87
Figure #229 Along both sides of the landing light measure 3/8” and mark a line. Then starting from the upper leading edge’s manufacture line measure and mark 4 spaces. Each space will be 1 1/2” apart. Then from the bottom leading edge manufacture line measure 3 spaces at 1 1/2” each. Then drill each hole with a #40 drill bit & cleco each loca‐ tion as shown in Figure #229.
Counter Sink & Debur each hole before riveting in the side Figure #230 brackets as shown in Figure #230.
Install press rivets with rivet squeezers as shown in Figure Figure #231 #231 & #232.
Figure #232 Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #88
Figure #233 Take the landing light cover, starting from the outside side edge measure and mark a 3/8” line. Then from the inside edge of the upper cover measure and mark a 1” line. Then do the same thing for the other end of the cover. When complete place the cover on the leading edge with spring clamps, ensure that the cover is centered and flush at the top and bottom edge, as shown in Figure #233.
Use a #40 drill bit and drill out the lower two corners and install clecos in to each hole. Then check to see if the cover is tight against the forward leading edge. When satisfied with the covers fit, drill out the top 2 corners and cleco each hole. Measure the distance from corner hole to cor‐ ner along the top and bottom line (this should be 12 3/4”.) Mark 6 holes locations across, which is 5 spaces of 2.55” each.
From the top corners, measure down 2.55” & 5.10” and mark both location. For the bottom corners measure for‐ ward 2.55” and place a mark. Check the inside of the lead‐ ing edge to see if these locations would interfere with the counter sink rivets. You do not want the nut plates to in‐ terfere with the rivets, relocate the nut plate locations if needed. Try to make the spacing aesthetically pleasing.
When all of the locations have been checked and are clear of any interference, drill out the needed holes.
Remove the cover plate. Enlarge all the holes with a 0.135” Figure #234 drill bit. This will accommodate a #6 nut plate tool as shown in Figure #234. Then using a nut plate tool and a #40 drill, insert the side holes to the support your nut plate. Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #89
Figure #235 Use 3‐3 counter sunk rivets, permanently install the nut plates with a rivet squeezer. On your cover plate enlarge the #40 holes to accept the #6 screws. Making these holes slightly larger then the #6 screw will give you room for any possible misalignment, due to the extra space that the fab‐ ric may consume.
Figure #235 shows the lower nut plates installed.
When all of the nut plates are installed, Trim your glass to fit in to the recess groove . Check for proper fit along the front leading edge. Then remove the glass and store in a safe place. The final installation of the glass and trim plate will happen after the fabric has been installed and painted.
Note: The final steps to complete the landing light will be covered after the fabric covering process. Section WG05 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #90
Install the Wiring harness for the Wing
The purpose of this section is to show how to build a wire harness that supplies power to the landing lights, naviga‐ tion lights, Strobe lights and optional auxiliary fuel transfer pump.
Note: This harness can be installed at our factory for an ad‐ ditional cost or you can build them yourself. These harnesses are available from Turbine Cubs and can be shipped with your kit. The pictures in this guide shows installation of the har‐ ness in front of the front spar. You will not be able to do this because your wings will have the leading edge skins already installed. You will install your harness in the same fashion, only it will run along the inside of the front spar.
Figure #236 Start by laying out each wire along the whole length of the wing as shown in Figure #236, then add 18‐24” extra of each along the root of the wing. Use 3 14 gauge wires for landing lights, 3 16 gauge wires for the navigation lights & 2 14 gauge wires for the fuel transfer pump.
If you were going to install the (Whelen nave / strobe sys‐ tem) or L.E.D nave strobe system both kits will be shipped with the necessary harness. Section WG05 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #91
Take a roll of the black braided sleeve and roll the cut end Figure #237 into itself about 1” at each end ( Doing this will ensure that the braid wont break apart) Then place each cable that has been cut to length, through the braided black sleeve. Use a soldering iron to burn a small hole in the black sleeve at the landing lights & optional auxiliary fuel transfer pump loca‐ tions, then pull out the required wires for each system as shown in Figure #237 & #238.
Figure #238 Section WG05 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #92
With another piece of the braided sleeve, run the pulled Figure #239 out wires through it and cut to length. Again roll the frag‐ mented end in to the braided sleeve about 1” as shown in Figure #239. With a hook needle, thread each of the braided sleeves together as shown in Figure #240. The final outcome should look like Figure #241.
Figure #240 Figure #241 Section WG06 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel Lines for Auxiliary Pump –Page #93
The Facet transfer pump that comes with the Auxiliary fuel tanks already has 3/8” flared tube fittings on the pump. It is important that you verify the direction of the pump. It only works one way and is marked with an arrow. They install the pump at the factory with the arrow pointing to‐ wards the leading edge of the wing. You want to suck from the back of the Auxiliary tank and dump the fuel in the front of the main tank.
At the back of the aux tank, we reduce the 3/8” pipe thread Figure #242 down to a ¼” AN912‐2D. Then install elbow AN821‐6D pointing to the transfer pump when tight. Don’t forget to seal the threads with Locktite 545 the same way as you did for the airframe fuel system. Do not seal the joints with the compression fittings! Place a short piece of 3/8” alumi‐ num tubing with a small offset bend joins the elbow to the back (suction side) of the pump. This tube will get a nut AN818‐6D and a sleeve AN819‐6D on each end. Flare the ends and connect the tube as seen in Figure #242.
Now is a good time to mix up some top coat paint and Figure #243 touch up any areas that did not get painted because they where taped over to keep bushings clean. Mix up a small amount just like you would to spray, except you are going to use a small artists brush to carefully apply the paint as seen in Figure #243. Let this paint dry before continuing with the tail brace wire installation.
The front of the main tank gets a Nipple AN816‐6D with Figure #244 thread sealant as seen in Figure #244. Section WG06 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel Lines for Auxiliary Pump –Page #94
The second tube goes from the front of the pump to the Figure #245 top hole located at the front of the main tank. The same nut and sleeve go on each end of this tube.
Make sure your power wires (14 gauge) are connected to Figure #246 the pump and that you have properly labeled the positive and negative at the root of the wing. Check continuity with a meter to make sure. Section WG07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Pitot Static Line –Page #95
This section covers the pitot tube installation. Although Figure #247 some glass cockpit systems supply a special pitot tube end we are showing a normal mechanical airspeed configura‐ tion. We are not showing a Static line installation because this type of aircraft is not an air tight unit. We have found that just leaving the back of your altimeter and VSI open are sufficient and don’t run any lines. You can, however run lines if you want to. This step requires 10 feet of ¼” aluminum tubing 03‐ 40400. It runs from the root of the wing behind the front spar and exits just behind the front jury strut attachment bracket.
This is typically done to the left wing only. You need to bend a gentle 90° curve at the jury strut pickup end. Be careful not to kink the tube.
The best way to attach the tube to the spar is using the Figure #248 white cable tie mounts as seen in Figure #248. These can be picked up from electronics shops or hardware places like Fastenal. In this application you need to drill a #37 hole in the spar web and use a #4 screw to fasten the cable tie mount. Then you use a small cable tie to secure the tubing.
Leave about 2” of tube sticking out at the wings root end. Figure #249 You need enough to attach hose to each end.
Note: Wrap both ends of the pitot line with electrical tape during the covering process. This will keep the ends clean and free of any contaminates.
Section WG08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Drill for rivets –Page #96
In this module we will be showing you the steps needed to drill holes in the wings, flaps & ailerons. This is only done if you plan to use pop rivets rather then rib stitching to attach your fabric to the wings. The rivets will be needed to se‐ cure the fabric to the aircraft wing assembly. Depending on the length of chord of your flaps & ailerons the amount of rivets will change.
Starting from the wing front spar (on the bottom of the Figure #250 rib), measure back 1” and place a mark on the center of the rib, as shown in Figure #250.
Then measure back 1” from the trailing edge skin and Figure #251 mark, as shown in Figure #251.
Figure #252 The FAA stipulations on the placement of rivets & lacing on the wings are found in AC43.13‐1B Chapter 2 Page 2‐21. Figure #252 shows the FAA maximum allowable spacing envelope. On our aircraft kits the ribs 1‐5 from the wing root will need the 2 1/2” spacing due to the prop wash, the remanding ribs can be spaced at 3 1/2” apart, but no fur‐ ther. Measure and mark the locations along each rib, keep an eye for any possible poor placement of rivets around the rib support brackets, keep the holes far enough away so that when you later install the rivets they won’t strike the support brackets. You repeat these steps for both top and bottom of each rib.
Note: Rivets are only needed on the bare rib and not on the leading edge or trailing edge skins. Section WG08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Drill for rivets –Page #97
It has been suggested to make a story board for the river hole placement so that your rivet locations would be evenly spaced and uniformed. The story boards will also assist in cutting down the time needed when marking the locations.
To make a rivet story board you could you a scrap piece of metal or bristle board. You will need to make a total of 3 different story boards 1 for the bottom ribs that are in the prop wash area, 1 for the remaining non prop washed area of the wing & 1 for the top non prop washed wing.
Flaps should have 3 rivet locations top and bottom in the prop wash area & 2 rivets in none washed areas. On each rib evenly space 2 locations both top and bottom for the ailerons.
When you have marked all of the rivet locations use a 1/8” Figure #253 drill bit and drill each hole & de‐bur, as shown in Figure #253. Section AA01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Landing Gear Assembly –Page #98
This is the beginning of the assembly process. When you Figure #254 are done, all of the painted parts will come together to make an assembly that should look like the aircraft in Fig‐ ure #254. This section covers the assembly of the main landing gear. The first step is to get the airframe off the rotisserie used for covering and painting and onto the wheels.
As shown in Figure #255 there are four parts we are going to deal with in this section, a left & right main gear leg, a left & right shock strut, a cabane V, & one or two side steps. The only time you will have two side step configura‐ tion is your aircraft has both a left & right side door.
Raise the front of the airframe high enough so that you Figure #255 may fit the main gear legs in to position. We suggest you use a couple of short 2x4 blocks of wood and place them under each axel. This will protect the bottom of the gear legs paint from any possible scratching during the time of positioning the air frame.
There are two bolts that get installed on each gear leg to attach the leg to the airframe. As shown in Figure #2 & #3 there should be a space between the leg and the bracket Figure #256 that holds it on to the airframe. The leg requires you to have the ability to swing freely so the small gap isn't a ma‐ jor concern.
Use a AN6‐26 Bolt for the front fitting with a washer on the head. Use 1 or 2 washers on the other end with a castle nut so the hole in the bolt is just exposed within the nut to accept a cotter pin.
The rear fitting requires a AN6‐26 Bolt with a washer on the head & 1 or 2 washers on the threaded end with a cas‐ tle nut. (Note: Use a AN6‐25 Bolt if you are not using the conventional step)
Tighten both nuts finger tight, then tighten one more flat Figure #257 (1/6th of a turn) until the hole in the bolt lines up with the slot with n the nut.
Note: If you are going to install a side step it needs to go on to the rear fitting before the nut is installed.
Section AA01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Landing Gear Assembly –Page #99
Side step installation. Figure #258 The side step is installed with two attachment points. A rubber bumper is used as a leverage arm. These rubber bumpers are available at most fastener retailers.
As shown in Figure #259 the larger hole that is in the step Figure #259 will go in the back side of the rear gear leg fitting.
The rear attachment point of the step will get bolted to the Figure #260 tab sticking out of the bottom airframe as shown in Figure #260. Bolt these together with an AN3‐5 bolt with AN960‐ 10 washer on the head & a AN960‐10 washer and a AN365 ‐1032 lock nut on the threaded side.
Section AA01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Landing Gear Assembly –Page #100 Figure #261 Installing the Cabane V
The Cabane V gets installed with bolts number 1 & 2 as seen in Figure #261 . These are 2x AN5‐17A Bolts with 2 AN960‐516 washers & 1 AN365‐524 locknut. You can use a Locknut here because this part of the gear does not pivot.
These 2 nuts get tighten to 120 inch LBS of torque.
Installing the Shock Struts Figure #262 Your kit comes with a single die spring suspension arm. Figure #262 shows the optional heavy duty suspension arms. They both get attached the same way.
#3 location is a AN6‐17 bolt with a AN960‐616 washer on the head & 2 AN960‐616 washers, a AN310‐6 castle nut & MS24665‐283 cotter pin on the threaded side of the bolt.
#4 location is a AN6‐22 Bolt with a AN960‐616 washer, a AN310‐6 castle nut & MS24665‐283 cotter pin on the threaded sided of the bolt.
If you are using the heavy duty suspension arms, they are required to be drilled together. To do this, mount the arms onto the aircraft with bolts #3 & #4.
Now add or remove wooden 2x4 blocks to have the arms measure 30 7/8” center to center between the bolts.
By mounting the arms onto the aircraft you must assure the bolt holes are running parallel to each other.
Figure #263 Figure #264
Section AA02 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Wheel Installation –Page #101
Your tail wheel is going to come assembled, as seen. It Figure #265 comes straight out of the box ready to be bolted to your tail wheel spring. This is a fairly simple system held to‐ gether with only 4 bolts as shown in Figure #265.
Location # 1 bolt is a AN7‐21A with 1 washer & 1‐AN365‐ 720A lock nut. Torque nut to 475 inch pounds. (inch pounds divided by 12 = Foot pounds)
Locations #2 & #3 each bolt is a AN5‐17A with 3 AN960‐ 516 washers & one AN365‐524 locknut. Torque between 100‐140 inch pounds.
Location #4 bolt is a AN6‐26A with 3 AN960‐616 washers & AN365‐624 locknut. Torque the nut between 160‐190 inch pounds.
Stack all three leaf springs together as shown in Figure Figure #266 #266. The shortest spring is to be on top, the middle spring is the one with the slot in it at the tail wheel end & a regular hole at the forward facing end & the bottom spring is the one with the hole at both ends.
Location #4 Bolt shown in Figure #267 clearly shows a castle nut & not a locknut as listed in the Bill Of Materials. Either style of nut can be used here due to the fact that this item is not a rotating part.
Figure #267 Section AA02 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Wheel Installation –Page #102
Figure #268 You may notice that the tail wheel leaf springs have a rough texture to them. This is a result of the forging proc‐ ess & not the signs of a recycled spring. Some builders decide to sand the springs smooth & then repaint them. Either way, the it won’t effect the springs performance.
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #103
This section is going to show you how to install the hori‐ zontal stabilizers & then the brace wires. The tail brace wires hold the stabilizers square to the vertical fin of the aircraft and also add great rigidity to the entire tail system.
The First step is to ream out the two holes that are the Figure #269 lower mounts for the bottom tail brace wires. Carefully clean these holes by running a 0.191” reamer through keeping the reamer as square as possible. This is easier to access now before the stabilizers go on, as shown in Figure #269.
The second step is to check the fit of the rear pivot tube (T4) & make sure it will freely enter the rear of the stabiliz‐ ers. The best way to do this is to lay a blanket down on a work bench (something soft to protect the newly painted surfaces) or a couple of saw horses. Be careful that what‐ ever you use doesn’t scratch the stabilizers. Do one stabi‐ lizer at a time.
Try inserting the pivot tube in to the rear of the stabilizer. Don’t ram it in there if it won’t go in easily. Sometimes a small bit of weld will penetrate through the stabilizer as it is being welded, or paint will obstruct the pivot tube from rotating freely. Either way, you need to make sure the sta‐ bilizer pivot tube will slide in to the stabilizer at least 2 1/2 inches.
If the pivot tube won’t slide in the stabilizer you will need to Figure #270 clean out whatever is obstructing the hole. The easiest way to do this is with a Dremel tool as seen in Figure #270 with a small sanding wheel that will fit into the stabilizer tube. If you don’t have a Dremel you can use ad sm all roun or half round file or even regular sandpaper on a small dowel or any round handle. Don’t make this hole any lar‐ ger than you have to!! Make the fit between the two tubes just loose enough that you can slide the pivot tube in to the stabilizer with one hand. You don’t want any excess play between the tubes. If you have to tap the tube with a ham‐ mer it is too tight. If you get the tube stuck while fitting, wrap the tube in a rag and grab the tube with channel lock pliers. What ever you do, don’t mark the outside of the pivot tube with the pliers. Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #104
Figure #271
Repeat this for the second stabilizer. Figure #272
Now you are going to get the rear pivot shaft ready to ac‐ Figure #273 cept the stabilizers. You need to apply a coating of Lock‐ Tite C5‐A anti‐seize to the pivot shaft before it is slid in to the airframe as seen in Figure #273. Apply to shaft leaving 2” bare on each end of the shaft. Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #105
Now slide the shaft in to the airframe tube making it cen‐ Figure #274 tered (an even length of shaft sticking out each side of the airframe). You should have about 2 ½” on each side of the airframe. Don’t get worried if this measurement varies a small amount (plus or minus 1/8”) shown in Figure #274.
Once the pivot tube is centered, wipe off any anti‐seize on the tube that is visible. Re‐check that the tube is centered after you wipe the anti‐seize.
We are going to install the left stabilizer first so you need Figure #275 to mark the right side of the tube with tape. Using mask‐ ing tape, wrap the tube as seen in Figure #275 as close to the airframe as you can but keep all of the tape on the pivot tube. This will serve as a witness mark as you push the left stabilizer on. If the pivot tube moves side to side (which it is suppose too) you will know how far to install the pivot tube in the left stabilizer and still keep it centered in the airframe.
OK, now let’s move up to the front stabilizer support. This Figure #276 is a floating tube attached to the jack screw yoke. Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #106
The front pivot tube item #T5 has two definite high spots Figure #277 that are thicker and you can see a ridge here in Figure #277. Before you install the front tube you need to apply anti‐seize only on the two thicker portions. The ridges also serve as the witness marks for centering purposes. Insert so an even amount of tube sticks out each side.
Figure #278 Now you should be ready to install the left and right hori‐ zontal stabilizers. This is a job that is best done with two people. One person is going to hold the two pivot tubes from moving while the other person slides the stabilizer on to the two tubes, as shown in Figure #279.
Place the front tube through the front hole of the stabi‐ lizer. Make sure you have the left stabilizer and not the right. Check that the Seaplane drain holes are on the bot‐ tom (if you installed them on the fabric).
After you get the front tube started, you need to make sure Figure #279 the powder coated tube that is attached to the jack screw yoke is rotated down and not upward as seen in Figure #279. In other words, the tube must be below the AN3 bolts attaching the tube to the jack screw yoke and nut above the AN3 bolts. The stabilizer will fit on to the air‐ frame with the tube rotated upward, but your trim range will be off. Make sure it looks just like the picture seen in Figure #279. Now you can begin fitting the rear tube.
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #107 Figure #280
Once the stabilizer is started (making sure it is level with the ground) begin sliding it toward the vertical fin. The person holding the two pivot tubes can rotate the tubes to help the stabilizer move toward the fin.
Figure #281 The person pushing against the stabilizer can use one hand against the back of the vertical fin as leverage to apply pressure toward the fin. Be careful and take your time with this. You don’t want to bend anything!
When you are done sliding the left stabilizer toward the Figure #282 center, it should be tight to the airframe and the rear tube should only have 2 ½” sticking out the right side. You should just be able to see the shoulder of the front pivot tube, and it should not protrude out past the end of the painted jack screw yoke tube. Now you need to drill two holes to anchor the pivot tubes to the left stabilizer.
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #108 Figure #283
You need to mark the location for two 3/16” bolts. Using a pencil, measure exactly 1” in from the root of the stabilizer at the front and rear tubes as seen in Figures 283 & 284. Make sure your marks are on the very top of the tubes. Imagine a square placed on top of the fabric covering the stabilizer. You need to drill holes down the square in both directions from the top of the fabric.
Figure #284
Measure the center of the forward and rear tubes of the stabilizer as seen in below in Figure #285. Mark the center at the 1” mark as seen in Figure #286.
Figure #285 Figure #286 Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #109
Install AN3 bolts in these holes so the end size for your hole Figure #287 is to 0.191”. This needs to be a tight fitting hole which means under size first. Start by drilling a smaller hole about 1/8”. Drill this hole, keeping your drill bit as square as you possibly can to the top surface of the stabilizer. Shown in Figure #287.
Figure #288 Drill a second time using a #12 drill bit and then a final clean out with a 0.191” ream. As shown in Figure #288 & #289.
Figure #289 Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #110
Place a AN960‐10 washer though a AN3‐14A bolt then run Figure #290 the bolt though the hole and place a AN‐960‐10 washer on the end of the bolt and complete with a AN365‐1032 lock‐ nut.
Repeat the same steps for the rear tube. Tighten front & Figure #291 rear nuts at 20‐25 inch lbs.
Repeat the same steps for the right stabilizer. Figure #292 Have someone hold the left stabilizer as you align the right stabilizer and push the right side on to the aircraft. Be very careful to get the right side level and square with the pivot shafts. Push the stabilizer, in making sure you push the front and rear tubes at the same rate.
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #111
Once you get the right side started on to the tubes, you can Figure #293 go to the end of the stabilizer as seen in Figure #293. It may help to wiggle the stabilizer front to back every so slightly to get it to slide inward. Have your helper go to the end of the left stabilizer and resist you with the equal amount of pressure and press inward.
Figure #294
Figure #295
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #112
Make sure that both stabilizers are tight to the airframe Figure #296 and that you can’t possibly push them any closer together. Now you are going to mark drill hole locations just like you did on the left stabilizer, 1” in from the root of the stabi‐ lizer and exactly centered on top of each tube, as shown in Figure #296.
When you are ready to drill the right side it is easier if you Figure #297 have a third person. This can be done with two people, but the person holding the stabilizers together has to reach over the airframe and gets in the way of the person trying to drill the hole.
With three people, have one person at each end of the sta‐ bilizers pushing toward the center of the airframe. The third person (whoever is most competent to do the drilling) will drill a hole at the front and rear of the stabilizer just as you did on the left stabilizer. Start with a 1/8” drill, then switch to a #12 drill, and finally clean out the hole with a 0.191” reamer.
Now install your bolts to hold the right stabilizer on just as you did on the left.
Just for fun, you can go up to your trim handle and crank the trim to full up and full down travel. You should see the front of the stabilizers move as you turn the trim handle.
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #113
Figure #298 You have a couple of things you need to do before you can install the tail brace wires. First you need to open up the holes that accept the tail brace wires that you covered over when you where covering the stabilizers. Start by locating the bushing in each stabilizer as seen in Figure #298. You will be able to feel the indent of the hole and likely will be able to see the flat of the weld around the bushing. Using a small diameter rod (welding rod or clothes hanger) poke a hole in the center of the bushing.
Repeat this to the other side.
Also you need to poke a hole in the vertical fin located be‐ Figure #299 tween the upper hinge bushings as seen in Figure #299.
The next step is to burn the fabric around the holes that Figure #300 accept the bolts for the tail brace wires. This is done with a soldering iron. Carefully insert the tip of the iron through the holes and rotate it around the inside of the bushing to melt the fabric out as seen in Figure #300. Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #114
Figure #301 Now is a good time to mix up some top coat paint and touch up any areas that did not get painted because they where taped over to keep bushings clean. Mix up a small amount just like you would to spray, except you are going to use a small artists brush to carefully apply the paint as seen in Figure #301.
Let this paint dry before continuing with the tail brace wire installation.
Now you need to install the tail brace wires. You are going to assemble the wires, as shown in Figure #302 but leave everything loose. There are two top and two bottom tail brace wires. The top wires are longer in length than the bottom and have bent ends at both ends. You will notice the bottom wires (the shorter wires) have straight tabs at one end.
Figure #302 Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #115
Figure #303 shows the lower tail brace wires. Pay particu‐ lar attention to the fittings on the ends of the wires.
Figure #303
Starting with the top wires at the top of the vertical fin, Figure #304 insert one AN4‐15A bolt with the special Univair #U40131‐ 00 bent washer on each side, then a AN960‐10 washer and an AN365‐1032 locknut, as seen in Figure #304. Do not tighten this bolt just yet.
Turn the nut until about two threads are showing. You want to be able to swivel the brackets at the top of the tail brace wires.
The idea is that you are going to install all of the wires at both ends. Then you will tighten the nuts that hold the wires to the aircraft that last little bit. This will help you to get the brackets aligned at each end.
Figure #305
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #116
Figure #305 Now you are going to attach the other end of the top tail brace wires to the top of the left and right stabilizers. Look at Figure #305 below and you will notice that you need to have the lower tail brace wires ready to go on as well. Make sure you have them positioned so the bent end of the lower wires goes on the bottom of the stabilizer and the straight end goes down to the bottom of the airframe.
Note the bushing that is pointed out in Figure #305. The purpose of this bushing is to allow the brackets attached to the stabilizers to pivot and stay pointed directly at the top and bottom attachment points on the top of the fin and the bottom of the airframe. As the trim is adjusted, the brackets attached to the stabilizer as shown in Figure #306 would change direction without these bushings in place. They have just recently been added since (April 2008) to the hardware packages included with your kit. If you do not have these bushings, you will need to order them from either Turbine Cubs or Univair Part# U82732‐072.
Figure #306
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #117
Lastly you are installing the bottom of the lower tail brace Figure #307 wires which are bolt # 14, as shown in Figure #307.
You will use AN3‐5A bolts. Install a AN960‐10 washer on the head and another on the threaded side after it is in‐ serted in to the bracket, then place a AN365‐1032 locknut on the end of the bolt and snug tight, as you did with the other bolts.
At this point let’s talk about how the wires tighten. Look back a few pages and find the part explosion for explana‐ tory purposes, we are going to call the components a nut and a barrel. The nut works just like a collet does. You turn the barrel to adjust the length of the wire and when you are finally satisfied with the length of the wire you tighten the nut. The nut locks the barrel so it cannot turn any longer, maintaining the pre‐set length of the wire.
This means that you want all of the nuts on the end of each barrel (8 in total) to be loose as you square up the stabiliz‐ ers to the fin. When you adjust the barrels you want to hold the wire from rotating with one hand and turn the barrel with the other. Figure #308
It is Critical that you DO NOT put any marks / Cuts / Nicks in the wires. This would be an area that would promote a failure in the wire. If you did damage the wire in any way, when you begin to fly this aircraft the poten‐ tial failure of a tail brace wire would wreak your entire day!
Warning ! ! !
If you put pliers or Vise Grips on to the wire to keep it from turning and you press some kind of mark in to the wire, you need to replace the wire!!!!!! Figure #309
Now you are going to need two 48” levels. The idea here is to first get the vertical fin as level as you can. Do this by either jacking the axels up or by adjusting the air pressure in the tires.
First check the back of the fin with a smaller level (torpedo level) as shown in Figure #309. When you have adjusted and are satisfied that the fin is completely level, you are going to look at the two levels on the top of the stabilizers. Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #118
Figure #310 Make sure the two 48” levels are not hitting or on top of any bolts or the tail brace wire brackets as seen in Figures #310 & #311.
Now you are going to adjust the barrels of all the wires un‐ til the stabilizers are square and level with the tail fin. Turn the barrels all finger tight and no more. Now you need to finish tightening the bolts that go through the fin and sta‐ Figure #311 bilizers and the bottom mount bracket. You are going to tighten these to normal torque specs for 3/16” & ¼” bolts. As you tighten these bolts you need to hold the brackets from rotating as they should be in line with the wire and pointing straight to the other end of the wire. In other words, there should be no side pressure on the barrels. You want a nice straight tension load on each tail brace wire assembly.
Figure #312
Now you can start adding tension to the wires. Below is how Piper described the proper amount of tension that should be applied to the wires.
What this means is that you need to hold a straight edge against the side of the wire and parallel with the length of the wire. Measure the exact center of the wire. This is the point that you will be pulling from to measure your deflec‐ tion. Now you need to pull at 90 degree from the direction the wire travels in with 10 pounds of force. The easiest way to ensure you are using 10 pounds of force is to use a fish scale. Go down to your local Walmart and purchase a fish scale like the one shown in Figure #312. Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #119
Figure #313 Attach the hook end of the scale around the tail brace wire at the center of the wire (in the “PULL” area as seen in Fig‐ ure #313) and hold the other end of the scale pull on the scale until you read 10 lbs on the scale dial. Be careful not to pull any harder than the 10 lbs because you don’t want to distort the shape of the wires. Now you need to meas‐ ure the distance the wire moved from the rest position to the position it is in when the 10 lbs are applied. This dis‐ tance should be 7/16”. If you measure more than 7/16” you need to tighten the wire. The opposite is true if you meas‐ ure less than 7/16”, loosen the wire.
Remember that all four of these wires work together as a Figure #314 single unit. This means that you want the same pressure on all four wires. So take your time gradually tightening each wire. Each time you adjust a wire check your levels as seen in figure 2. When you are done you need to be certain of 4 things.
1) The stabilizers are square to the vertical fin.
2) You have an even amount of thread showing at the top and bottom of each wire.
3) Each wire deflects 7/16” when 10 lbs force is applied.
4) You have NO nicks or scratches on the wires.
Once you are satisfied that you have completed all of the Figure #315 four steps above, go ahead and tighten the nuts located on each barrel.
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #120
This section is going to cover the installation of the eleva‐ Figure #316 tors and the connection of the elevator control cables. The next section (AA05) will cover the installation of the rud‐ der, the rudder cables, the rudder steering arm and the spring kit connecting the rudder to the tail wheel. When you are done both sections (AA04 & AA05) your tail section should look the one in Figure #316.
The first thing to do is mount the elevators to the stabi‐ lizer. If you did not install the oil light bushings item #F16 in to the hinges before you did your fabric covering, you need to do this now. There are two hinge points on each elevator. We are going to discuss installing one elevator and then you can just repeat each step mirroring every‐ thing for the other elevator.
Start by laying a blanket on a work table so you do not Figure #317 damage your paint job. Now you need to ream out the two bushings or hinge points to accept the longer oil light bronze bushings. These holes come from the factory all ready to size. The steel bushings welded to the stabilizer is 0.375” ID. The bronze bushings are. 0.376 OD That means these are a press fit. Check your hole for paint and debris and remove if necessary before driving the bushing in to place. Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #121
Figure #318 Using a clevis pin inside one of the bushings, align the bushing with the hole and tap the bushing in to place by hitting the head of the clevis pin. Be very careful not to hit the painted surface of the elevator by accident. If you are concerned that you may hit and damage your paint, wrap a piece of cardboard around the elevator to protect it. You need to install two long bushings in to each elevator and four small bushings in to each stabilizer.
When you have all of your bushings in place you want to Figure #319 mix up a small amount of paint and brush any areas around your hinges that are not painted. Before you mix the paint, now is a good time to make sure the oil light bushings are also installed in to the rudder hinge points. Now you can mix your paint and cover both horizontal and vertical tail surfaces in one step. When you are finished all of your tail surface hinge points will look like Figure #319. You can see the steel outer bushing welded to the control surface with the bronze bushing inside.
Now you have some holes that need to be cleaned out. Figure #320 Clean out the top and bottom holes marked number 1 as shown in Figure #320 with a #11 drill. Clean out the hole marked number 2 with a 3/8” drill. Repeat this to the other elevator making sure you keep the number 2 hole on the top for the left and right elevator.
Now you are ready to install each elevator on to the stabi‐ lizers. Have two smaller pins ready to temporarily slide in to the hinges when you get the elevator in place. Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #122
Figure #321 You need to start by keeping the tip of the elevator below the tip of the stabilizer as seen in Figures #321 & #322. This allows you to get the bottom of the elevator horn (the root end that goes inside the airframe) to slide in between the upper longerons of the airframe.
Figure #322
Lower the root of the elevator down until you can lift the Figure #323 tip of the elevator and straighten out the elevator horn without the horn hitting the top of the fabric patch. Once you have the entire horn inside the airframe you can begin to align the root elevator hinge as seen in Figure #323.
If you find that the center of the elevator hinge will not go in between the two smaller hinge bushings on the stabi‐ lizer, you may need to remove the elevator and use a flat file to remove a small amount of material from the sides of the bushings.
When you get the root hinge to fit in to the stabilizer, insert one of your temporary pins in to the hinge. This allows you to let go of the root and concentrate on the tip of the ele‐ vator. Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #123
Figure #324 Now repeat the last step until the tip hinge fits properly in to the two smaller bushings on the stabilizer. You can now install your second smaller pin. This gives you a chance to let go of the elevator and gather your clevis pins.
Starting at the root hinge you are going to install: Figure #325 1 x AN394‐55 Clevis Pin
2 x AN960‐416 washers
1 x AN960‐416L thin washer
1 x MS24665‐132 Cotter Pin
Start with the clevis pin with one washer on the head. Us‐ ing a punch and hammer carefully start driving the pin in to the hinge. It helps to have a second person hold and align the center portion of the hinge with the two outer sections.
Drive the first pin in all the way until the shoulder of the pin Figure #326 rests against the stabilizer bushing.
Repeat this process to the tip hinge using the same pins.
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #124
Figure #327 When both clevis pins are installed you can repeat the in‐ stallation on the other elevator. When all four pins are in, go ahead and install the required washers and cotter pins to finish the mounting of the elevators.
Each hinge assembly should look like Figure #328 when Figure #328 finished.
levator Cable Installation
Now it’s time to connect the cables that control the eleva‐ tors. You start by sliding the black steel tab (F11) seen in Figure #329 in between the left and right elevator horns. This tab should already be connected to the elevator bal‐ ance cable spring. To make this installation easier, go for‐ Figure #329 ward to the trim handle and make sure the trim (jack screw) is as high as possible (nose down trim) on the jack screw. This will take some of the pressure off the spring as you install the two bolts seen in Figure #329. It will also help if you lift the trailing edges of the elevators. Doing this will allow you to install the bolts with no pressure on the spring. If you have trouble with this, you can discon‐ nect the balance cable from the jack screw yoke while you install item #F11.
Bolt # 4 is 1 x AN3‐7A 2 x AN960‐10 1 x AN365‐1032 (20 – 25 inch pounds)
Bolt # 5 is 1 x AN6‐7A 2 x AN960‐616 1 X AN365‐624 (160 – 190 inch pounds)
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #1215
Figure #330
Install the steel tab item #F12 between the bottom of the elevator horns as seen in Figure #331. Make sure you ream the holes in item #F12 with a # 11 drill before you Figure #331 install the plate.
Install using bolt 6 shown here in Figure #332.
Bolt 6 is: 1 x AN3‐7 (bolt) 2 x AN960‐10 (washer) 1 x AN310‐3 (castle nut) 1 x MS24665‐132 (cotter pin)
Tighten this bolt until it is snug and the castle nut lines up with the hole in the bolt. F12 needs to be able to rotate in between the elevator horns, so do not over tighten. Figure #332 The top elevator control cable item #C5 gets attached to the only remaining hole available on F11. This cable goes down on an angle to the double pulleys that go under the floor of the aircraft. The other end of this cable gets at‐ tached to the rear of the tube that goes through the torque tube. Install the turn buckle to F11 with bolt 7 seen in Fig‐ ure #332.
Bolt 7 is: 1 x AN23‐11 (clevis bolt) 1 x AN960‐10 (Washer) 1 x AN310‐3 (Castle nut) 1 x MS24665‐132 (cotter pin) Tighten the castle nut on bolt 7 finger tight. Then tighten until the first available groove in the castle nut lines up with the hole in the bolt. It does no good to tighten this nut any further putting unnecessary pressure on the turn buckle fork end. Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #1226
Figure #333 Next you are going to attach the lower elevator cable to the bottom connection of the elevator. Cable item #C6, which is the cable that connects to the front of the torque tube, connects to item #F12 as seen in Figure #333. Con‐ nect the turn buckle with bolt 8 seen in Figure #334.
Bolt 8 is: 1 x AN23‐11 (clevis bolt) 1 x AN960‐10 (Washer) 1 x AN310‐3 (Castle nut) 1 x MS24665‐132 (cotter pin)
Tighten the castle nut on bolt 8 finger tight. Then tighten until the first available groove in the castle nut lines up with Figure #334 the hole in the bolt. It does no good to tighten this nut any further putting unnecessary pressure on the turn buckle fork end.
Here is another view of the lower elevator connection. Notice how the elevator horns rest against the short piece of tube connecting the lower longerons. This acts as the down travel stop for the elevators. The upper stop is the lower elevator horns hitting the tail post. Original Piper had an adjustable bolt in place to act as the stop. It was decided that you could achieve greater elevator travel by removing this stop and just using the tail post. There is no strength compromise from this alteration.
At this point you should have an elevator system that looks Figure #335 similar to the one in Figure #335 less the rudder of course. You should be able to sit in the front seat of the aircraft and pull back on the control stick and watch the elevators go up. Push forward and the elevators should go down!
Don’t get worried about the cable tension. You likely loos‐ ened the turnbuckles slightly as you attached the turn‐ buckle ends to the steel brackets. We will cover the cable tension in AA09 (Struts & Rigging). When you are ready, you will rig the entire aircraft. Then you are going to go through and safety wire all of the turnbuckles. Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #127
This section covers the installation of the rudder, the rud‐ Figure #336 der control cables, and the rudder steering arm that con‐ nects to the tail wheel. Figure #336 below shows the areas that will be covered.
The first step is to mount the rudder on to the vertical fin. You should have installed the bronze bushings in the rud‐ der during section AA04, so the rudder should be all set to install. Same as the elevators, have two smaller pins ready to temporarily hold the hinges together while you work at driving the clevis pins in to place.
Starting with the top hinge install:
1 x AN394‐55 Clevis Pin 2 x AN960‐416 washers 1 x AN960‐416L thin washer 1 x MS24665‐2‐8 Cotter Pin
Repeat this for the lower hinge. Figure #337 The top and bottom hinge should look like the example in Figure #337 when you have finished mounting the rudder.
Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #128
Figure #338 For the next step you want to lock the rudder from moving. The best way of doing this is to cut two pieces of thin wood. Notice that the wood blocks used in Figure #338 have masking tape applied to the side against the paint. Doing this will help protect the paint.
Here you can see a closer view of the blocks used to keep Figure #339 the rudder aligned with the fin.
Your job now is to install the rudder arm. This rudder arm Figure #340 is Aircraft Spruce P/N 06‐15900. It has a ¾” shaft that will slide directly in to the bottom of the rudder post as seen in Figure #340. Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #129
Figure #341 This next step is a job that requires two people to do. First thing is to get the rudder steering arm square with the rud‐ der. This can be done by using a speed square as seen in Figures #341 & #342. Place the square against the side of the lower frame of the rudder. Make sure that the arm is hitting the square in the same points on the left and the right sides. Before you drill you need to mark some holes as seen below in Figure #343.
Figure #342
Figure #343 The two holes seen in Figure #343 will need to be drilled exactly 90° to the rudder on the center of the front rudder tube. These holes will go through the rudder tube, through the rudder steering arm, and back out the center of the other side of the rudder tube. Mark up from the bottom 3/8” for the first hole and 1” from the bottom for the sec‐ ond hole. Start drilling with a smaller pilot drill through the assembly and finish off with a # 12 drill. After the first hole is drilled, install a bolt. This will ensure no movement in the parts as the second hole is drilled. Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #130
Figure #344 Bolts 10 & 11 are: 2 x AN3‐13A Bolts 4 x AN960‐10 Washer 2 x AN365‐1032A Locknuts
Now you are going to install Eye bolts in to the bottom of Figure #345 the holes on each side of the steering arm you just installed on the bottom of the rudder. These bolts as seen in figure 9 ,allow an easy connection point for the spring connectors that go to the tail wheel. These bolts require:
2 x AN42B‐7A Eye Bolt 6 x AN960‐10 Washer 2 x AN365‐1032A Locknut As you torque the eye bolts (50‐70 inch lbs) make sure you keep the flat tabs on the ends square to the rudder steering arm.
Now you can connect the tension spring kit (Aircraft Figure #346 Spruce P/N 2151) as seen in Figure #346. The link chain that comes with the kit is longer than needed and will re‐ quire cutting. As you fit the spring kit, you need to make sure that each side is the same length and that there is a small amount of pressure on each spring (you should see a small gap between each coil of the springs)
Note: Your tail wheel is a caster and spins 360 degrees. The tail wheel shown in Figure #346 is pointing to the front because the aircraft was pushed backwards into the hanger. Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #131
Next thing to do is connect the rudder cable
This job requires the following hardware: Figure #347 2 x AN23‐9 Clevis Bolts 6 x AN960‐10 Washers 2 x AN960‐10L Thin Washers 2 x AN310‐3 Castle nuts 2 x MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
A Clevis bolt is used here because this is a high shear load area.
You will notice there are 5 holes in the split steel tabs that Figure #348 come on the ends of the rudder cables. This is for tension adjustment on the cables. Use the middle hole to begin with, as seen in Figure #348, (this is not a clevis bolt in the photo, just a regular AN3 bolt to demonstrate the center hole)
The tail is now finished except for the rigging section.
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Skylight & Side Glass Installation –Page #132
This section is going to cover the installation of the side window glass and the skylight glass.
There are two different side window configurations offered Figure #349 in the PA‐18 and PA‐12 kits. The “C” Frame shown in Fig‐ ure #349 and the L21 style shown in Figure #350 Both of these configurations have a glass skylight directly above the pilots seat. The “C” style has a left & right side window in the shape of a “C” for the passenger. The L21 style has a skylight for the passenger and much larger side windows.
For both window styles should starte with th side windows. Figure #350 You will notice that there is a channel or groove for the glass to sit in located at the bottom and the back of the window frame. The easiest way to begin is to make a pa‐ per pattern. We suggest using 5 – 6 sheets of heavy Bristol board paper. Start by placing the Bristol board in the lower channel and slide it in the rear channel. If you have rare earth magnets it would be a large help in holding the Bris‐ tol board in place during the pattern process ensuring an Figure #351 accurate fit. You will have to make 3 cuts in the paper to have a flat fit 1 for the fuel line 2nd for the wing root attach point and the 3rd for the rear spar attachment point as show in Figure #351.
Note: The fuel lines on each side are routed out through the glass and up in the wing root area. When cutting these holes in the paper to the hole pattern can be bigger than the fuel line and cut in a slot fashion as seen in Figure #351. Any small un‐uniformity in cutting this hole in the window will be un‐shown by an interior trim cover that will get glued directly to the plastic. The outside portion will be hidden within in‐ side the wing root fairing. Figure #352 When tracing out your pattern you will run a straight line up the forward edge of the rear door post to the bottom of the rear spar attachment point and then trace along the top of the air frame as shown in Figure #352. Cut around the rear spar attachment point and continue up to the top of the frame.
When you have your paper pattern finished it should work for both sides of your aircraft. It is suggested that you en‐ sure correct fit by physically checking that the pattern does indeed fit for the opposite side. Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #133
Now that your side window pattern has been created you Figure #353 must decide on what kind of plastic you are to use for your aircraft. We suggest using Lexan due to its durable proper‐ ties. You may use Plexi‐glass if you wish.
For a good straight cut we suggest using a band saw to Figure #354 make long contoured cuts. If you have not acquired a band saw then a hand held grinder will also do the same job but will not give a good clean cut.
Figure #3
If you do use a band saw, lay strips of masking tape onto Figure #355 the table of the saw as seen in Figure #355. This will help prevent any possible scratches in the lexan as you make your cuts. It is a good idea to place a strip of masking tape onto each cut line that you are going to make to minimize any possible cracking in the lexan during the cutting proc‐ ess. Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #134
Figure #356 It is easier to have someone help you hold the weight of the sheet of Lexan as you run it through the band saw. You will have better control on larger pieces with the needed help.
Take your time when making each cut & be careful to fol‐ Figure #357 low your lines exactly.
Figure #3
After each piece has been cut and the fit has been checked, Figure #358 file the edges to remove any burrs. Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #135
Figure #359 Now that we have talked about technique on cutting the Lexan, lets go ahead and start placing your paper pattern onto a sheet of Lexan, try to arrange your pieces on the sheet to best utilize the material.
Place tape down where your outside trace lines need to be secured to ensure that the paper patterns won’t move, then trace the perimeter of each side window onto the plastic. Once all of your patterns are all traced go ahead and cut out the first window.
Now that you have one side window cut out of the plastic, you will want to test the fit your glass. Slide your window in the lower channel and to the rear channel of the opening to check for a correct fit.
Note: You will need to keep the window held out to clear the rear wing root attachment point as you slide it in.
Before you remove the window you will need to mark a hole for the aluminum fuel line shown in Figure #360 item Figure #360 #1 .These fuel line holes will be one of the hardest holes to create and maybe necessary to mark and fit the fuel line a Figure #3 few times to get a good correct fit. You will also have to cut out a ¾” hole for each of the flap actuator cables as show in Figure #360 item # 2. This hole requires to be 90 degrees out from the forward most part of the pulley groove. Imagine a line from the left flap pulley to the right flap pul‐ ley. Now extend that line left and right until it hits the plas‐ tic. That point is to be the center of the ¾” hole.
After your flap cable holes are marked you can then re‐ move the glass to drill the ¾” flap actuator cable & fuel line holes.
If the depth of the lexan plastic is to wide and will not fit between the narrow window channel you will need to taper the window edge that will go through the channel. If this happens we suggest to measure the depth of the window channel with a ruler or scale, then run a strip of masking tape parallel to the edge of the glass and inset towards the middle of the sheet by the depth of the channel. You will need to carefully grind the plastic with a hand held grinder at a slight angle 5 – 10 degrees max. Make a uniform taper in the plastic along the side you wish to taper out. Take care that you do not to cut out past your tape line. Ensure that you are only grinding the plastic that will be hidden inside the channel. Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #136
Once the side window are in place, the final step is to trim Figure #361 the lower front corner in a 45 degree angle. Start by mark‐ ing a line from the bottom of the channel to the center of the longeron as seen in Figure #362.
It is suggested to use metal guards and secure the guards Figure #363 by using tape. When cutting the Lexan plastic we suggest using a knife edge soldering iron to ensure a correct and straight edge as shown in Figure #363. File any possible burs smooth in the Lexan plastic. Repeat the past steps for the other side window.
Rear Skylight Installation:
Securing the rear skylight window will require 8 screws for each side of the skylight and 8 screws along the top of the steel air frame. Start measuring the sides of the skylight first. Start your measurement from the rear wing root tab 3/4” and then measure 3/4” from the rear skylight transi‐ tion 3/4” in. Then measure & mark the 3rd hole at 5” and Figure #364 the 4th hole at 9” as shown in Figure #364. Ensure that each of these holes are centered on the metal channel. Then measure the rear 4 holes starting 3/4” from each tran‐ sition ends. Make each of the holes parallel with the 1st 4 holes so to keep with consistency. Once when all the side holes are marked drill each hole with a 11/64” drill bit & then de‐bur any matterial. To mark the 8 holes along the top of the air frame start the measurement 3/4” from each end of the frame and 3/4” from the middle spine. Then evenly mark the other 4 holes. Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #137
The rear passenger skylight had slight bend in the glass. Figure #365 This bend tapers to nothing towards the front. To achieve this bend you are required to use a hand brake. Ensure that the skylight window material still has the protective coating on it so that the jaws will not to scratch the plastic. When using the brake drop the jaw of the side you want the bend on. It is acceptable to only have one jaw closed on the brake as you make a bend as shown in Figure #365. Lexan plastic has a natural spring to it so it requires some over bending. Try 45 degree on the brake and then check your angle. Keep re‐bending until you achieve the correct angle.
Note: Due to the high cost of Lexan plastic and the cost of tooling to correctly create this rear skylight we here at Turbine Cubs of Wyoming LLC can do this step for you at a small cost.
After you have successfully created the needed bend in the rear skylight the window should look like Figure #366. Figure #366
Place the rear skylight onto the airframe and place the Figure #367 Lexan on top of the rear channel as shown in Figure #367. Have the rear skylight’s left & right rear edge flush with the rear channel and then clamp to the airframe for a quick measurement. You should notice a slight over hang along the center spine. Mark the excess plastic and then cut and remove this excess material. Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #138
Mark the over hanging material on both sides flush with Figure #368 the airframe as shown in Figure #368 . Then cut off excess material. After all required cuts are made to the rear sky‐ light slide the Lexan into the rear channel & ensure that the skylight window in centered, then clamp in position. You will now mark each hole that you made in the airframe onto the Lexan. Remove the Skylight and drill out each of these holes on a flat surface to ensure that no possible stress cracking happens during the drilling process. We suggest using a specially ground point , 60 degree tip to prevent fractures, chipping or cracking the Lexan plastic.
After all of the holes have been cut out of the Lexan place Figure #369 clecos along the sides of the rear skylight to secure the plastic in place. Now you are going to measure the top sky‐ light window. Follow the same procedure using the Bristol board to make a pattern and then cut out the Lexan to fit for the top skylight position. You will need to create 8 holes in the top front of the steel airframe.& 4holes for each side . The top front holes measurement will be the same measurement as the lower 8 holes for the top rear skylight. The measurement of the remaining 4 holes for each side of the top skylight should start 3/4” from the corners of the air frame and then measure the two holes evenly between the front holes to the rear holes.
Drill & debur each the holes with the same size drill bit as before and then secure the top skylight and mark the hole onto the Lexan remove and then drill each of the marked holes as described during the past steps.
Place the top skylight onto the airframe and secure with clecos. The top window will over lap the rear skylight as shown in Figure #370. This overlapping will help with the Figure #370 ram airflow pressure. When installing the front windshield you will over lap the top of the front skylight to complete the correct air flow.
Note: Do the following steps only after all of the inside wing root connections are completed. Wing root connection steps will be covered latter in our manual.
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Glass Installation –Page #139
After all required wing root connections are complete you will then be ready to place the 4 painted finishing trim strips. These will be used to cover each of the window tran‐ sitions as shown in Figure #371 . The hardware required to Figure #371 secure these 4 finishing trims strips are clear plastic wash‐ ers, screws & lock nuts. The clear washers are not supplied with your kit but may be purchased thru Aircraft Spruce. These washers are to ensure that your finished paint does not get damaged during the screw installation. Each of the screws will go threw the Lexan skylight windows, trim strips and airframe & the forward 8 screws will screw through the top of the windshield. Then use lock nuts for each of the screws. Some of needed locknuts will fit through the steal airframe channels. Installing these lock‐ nuts maybe a tight fit and may require two people to install and secure each screw.
Figure #372 shows the side window trim that is required to Figure #372 hold the side windows in place. Some of the Smith cubs kits did not come with these trim panels. If you still require these covers you can purchase them from Turbine Cubs.
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Glass Installation –Page #140
Notice in Figure #373 & 374 the small cut outs for the side Figure #373 trim strips. Both the top and bottom notching that is re‐ quired is easily done with hand snips and files. This same type of trim strip is used to hold the “C” framed window in place.
Figure #374 Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #141
Figure #375 This section is going to cover the installation of the wheels and brakes. When complete your landing gear should look like a ready to fly landing gear system as in Figure #375. The tires in are 8.50 x 6 size tires (Aircraft Spruce Part # 06 ‐21175) and they come with the tubes. The 850 tire is a nice size and gives the aircraft a proportionate look. They a large enough to perform most “off airport “ maneuvering without sacrificing cruise speed.
The 6” wheels that are standard with the kit will accommo‐ date most any tire size up to and including 31”. Larger than 31” requires a 10” wheel. Keep in mind that 35” tires will reduce your cruise speed by as much as 20 mph compared to the 850 tires. Single puck brake calipers are standard with the kit. If you are going to use 26” tires or larger it is recommended that you upgrade to the double puck brake Figure #376 calipers. The mass of the larger tires require the extra braking force.
Step #1 : Mount Tires
Mount the tires and tubes on to the wheels. When you open the box with the wheels and brakes inside you will notice that each wheel assembly is in a plastic bag. Open the bag and remove the wheel assembly. You will notice a warning label notifying you that you must repack the wheel bearings. We will get to that later.
The wheel assembly is held together with 3 x 5/16” bolts. You will need 2 ‐ ratchet wrenches with 2 ‐ 1/2” sockets. It will also be easier to have short socket extensions to reach in to the bolts due to the design of the wheel. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the wheel assembly together. The assem‐ bly will split in to two halves along the wheel split line seen in Figure #376.
Clean the inside of the tire, making sure there are no parti‐ cles of debris from packing and shipping. Lubricate the inside of the tire lightly with talc (baby powder). Inflate the tube to slightly round. Lubricate the tube as well with talc. You want only a light dusting over the tube and inside the tire. This will prevent the tube from sticking to the inside of the tire during inflation.
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #142
Insert the tube in to the tire with the valve stem facing away from the red balance dot seen in Figure #377. The Figure #377 red balance dot will be on the back side of the tire and the valve stem will face the front or outside of the tire. This is done so that when looking at the aircraft from the side, the balance marks are not noticeable.
Bolt the two wheel halves back together around the tire. Make sure that when you mate the front half of the wheel to the tire, the valve stem on the tube goes through the valve stem hole. Be cautious that the tube does not get pinched between the wheel halves as they mate together. If you have trouble with this you can deflate the tube slightly when mating the wheel halves.
Install and tighten the three 5/16” bolts to 150 inch pounds of torque. The heads of the bolts are on the brake disc side of the wheel with the nuts on the valve stem side. The torque value is also printed on the data tag on the wheels as seen in Figure #377.
Inflate the tires to their rated pressure. Deflate the tires to Figure #378 allow them to equalize stretch. Re‐inflate the tires to rated pressure. When finished they should look like the tires in Figure #378. Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #143
Pack the Bearings
Inside one of the plastic bags that hold the wheel assem‐ blies will be Grove Aircrafts Installation Instructions. There will also be a “CAUTION” note advising you that the bearings need to be packed with grease. The Grove in‐ struction sheet notifies you that the manufacturer put a small amount of Aeroshell‐22 grease on the bearings so they would not corrode during shipping. It is your respon‐ sibility to completely pack the wheel bearings with more grease. It is recommended that you use more Aeroshell‐22 grease (Aircraft Spruce part # 08‐05490) . If you decide to use some other type is grease it is recommended that you completely clean the manufacturers shipping grease off of Figure #379 the bearings. Do this by using Varsol and a small clean paint brush to wash the grease off. Once completely clean and dry you may pack the bearing with some other wheel bearing grease. The logical solution is just to use more of the same grease the manufacturer recommends.
To access the bearings you need to first remove the re‐ tainer ring as seen in Figure #379. A flat screw driver works well to un‐seat the ring from its groove. Be careful not to distort the spring by applying too much force. When prying the spring out of its groove cover the spring with your other hand so that it does not fly across the room or in Figure #388 to your face.
After the spring is removed, remove the seal cover seen in Figure #389 Figure #389. Section AA08Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #144
Next remove the protective felt ring seen in Figure #390. Figure #390
You should now be able to lift the bearing out of the wheel Figure #391 by grabbing the red protective dust cap. The bearing is actually stuck to the washer by the packing grease. Hold the large washer in one hand and the bearing in the other. You should be able to separate the bearing from the washer and dust cap.
Set the bearing down on a clean surface (old newspaper) and arrange all the other pieces that you removed on the bench. Now repeat this same process with the other side of the wheel and also the other complete wheel so that when finished you have all 4 bearings laid out in front of you. It is not necessary but a good practice to keep all the other parts from each bearing assembly separated.
Now you can pack all 4 bearings at the same time. You can Figure #392 see in Figure #392 that you want to completely fill in the space between the inner and outer race of each bearing. This is the space between each of the little round rods all around the bearing. It is cleaner to use latex gloves for this next step but not necessary.
Section AA08Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #145
Place a golf ball size dollop of grease in the palm of your Figure #393 left hand (assuming you are right handed). Holding the bearing in your right hand and work the grease in to the bearing until the grease is coming out the top of each space between the rollers. The photo below is not the ac‐ tual grease used, because it is the wrong color, but is meant to give you the idea of the method required to prop‐ erly pack the bearing.
When you have packed all the bearings, install them in to the wheels in the exact reverse order as you took the bear‐ ings out. Make sure the retainer lock rings are seated in their groves and secure. At this point you should have new grease in all your bearings and the rudder installed on to the rims.
Set the tires aside and you are going to put the brake mounting plates and calipers on to the axel.
Your axels are likely resting on blocks of wood on the floor Figure #394 as seen in Figure #394. You need to lift the axels up on to higher blocks of wood that will allow you to install the brakes and wheels. It is recommended you have two peo‐ ple do this step. The easiest way to do this is to stick a pipe through the end of the axel. The pipe shown here is a pre‐ bent pipe and did not bend from lifting the aircraft. One person can lift the axel up using the pipe while the other slides the wood blocks under the axel.
You can see a sample of the wood blocks in Figure #395. Figure #395 Notice the paper towel between the wood block and the newly painted surface of the gear leg.
Now you need to clean any paint from the powder coating process and any material from the four holes that will bolt the brake mounting plate to the gear leg. Use a 5/16” ream to clean the bolt holes. Be careful to keep the ream parallel with the axel as you spin it in the four holes. Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #146
Install the brake mounting plate on to the axel as seen in Figure #396 Figure #396. Note the direction the plate faces and the bushings are facing forward. Also note the bushings are longer on the inside and this longer side faces the center line of aircraft.
The four mounting holes in the brake backing plate are 3/8” in size. You just finished cleaning the mounting holes on the gear leg with a 5/16” ream. These are obviously not the same size. The manufacturer includes 8 bushings to step down these holes from 3/8” to 5”16”. It is important that each of the four holes on the brake caliper mounting plate get a 3/8” to 5/16” step down bushing.
NOTE: It has come to our attention that the manufac‐ turer included 4 bushings in some wheel and brake sets and 8 bushings in other sets. If you received only4 bush‐ ing in your wheel and brake set please contact us and we will send you the other 4. The manufacturer has been made aware of this mishap and from the time of writing this section all wheel and brake kits will include 8 of these bushings.
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #147
Once a 3/8” to 5/16” step down bushing is installed in to each of the four holes of each mounting plate you can in‐ stall the bolts. The hardware list requires:
8 x AN5‐6A Bolts 8 x AN960‐516 Washers on the head 8 x AN960‐516L Thin washers on the nut 8 x AN365‐524 Locknuts)
When installing the bolts and washers and nuts ,you want to have a thick washer on the head of the bolt before in‐ serting in to the hole. Then you want to install a thin washer and a elastic stop nut. The nuts on the upper two bolts are going to be very close to the gear leg structure. If necessary you can swap the thick and thin washers so that the thick washer is on the head and the thin washer is on the nut side. This will give you a bit more clearance be‐ tween the end of the bolt and the gear leg.
Tighten all four bolts on each gear leg between 100‐140 Figure #397 inch lbs or 8.33‐11.66 foot pounds. Use a 1/2” wrench to hold the nut and a torque wrench with a 1/2” socket and extension on the head of the bolt. This is depicted in Fig‐ ure #397.
After the four bolts are tightened you need to install the wheel spacer. The wheel spacer is roughly 1 13/16” long and 1 1/2” ID. It should slide on to the axel with little ef‐ fort.
Figure #398 Figure #399
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #148
The next step is to install the wheel and tire assembly on to the axel. You will notice that the inner bearing of the wheel contacts the edge of the wheel spacer. The wheel spacer tube maintains the proper spacing between the brake disc and the brake caliper. Obviously, make sure that the valve stem is facing out and the brake discs face the center of the aircraft.
Now you need to pre‐load the wheel bearings. Rotate the Figure #400 wheel and tire while tightening the axel nut until it is so tight that you are unable to turn the wheel and tire. Care must be taken to not damage the valve stem during this process. Loosen the axel nut just enough so that the wheel and tire are on the “edge” of rotating freely. Install a safety cotter pin through the axel nut and axel as seen in Figure #400.
Cotter pins required : 2 x AN381‐4‐40
These cotter pins are a little long (2 1/2”) and will need to be cut to length with side cutters. You will bend one side 180 degrees around the nut, estimate the length and trim the excess. Then bend the end in until it almost contacts the main part of the cotter pin. The other side of the cotter pin requires a 90 degree bend backwards towards the bear‐ ing. Estimate the length and trim with side cutters before bending. You want the end to be as long as possible with‐ out actually touching the bearing’s protective dust cap.
Some of the earlier Smith Aviation landing gear legs did Figure #401 not have a deep enough grove in the end of the axel to ac‐ cept the cotter pin. If you tighten the axel nut and discover the grove is not deep enough, you need to remove some more material. The easiest method is to use an angle grinder as seen in Figure #401. You could also use a small round file to do this job. Whatever method used, be very careful to not damage the threads on the axel. Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #149
Next you are going to install the Brake Calipers. Notice Figure #402 that on one end of the brake caliper there is a brass fitting with a black rubber plug on the end. This is the bleeder plug. On the other end of the caliper there should be a plastic plug that you need to remove. This is the hole that accepts an elbow. The fitting used here is a AN822‐4D.
On the pipe threaded end (not the compression end) put some LOCTITE 545 thread sealant on to the threads. Tighten the fitting so that when done ,the elbow faces to‐ ward the two pins as seen in Figure #402.
Next remove the two bolts that hold the outer brake pad Figure #403 plate on to the brake caliper assembly. This requires a 7/16” wrench and is shown in Figure #403 and Figure #404.
Figure #404
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #150
Install the brake caliper on to the mounting plate by sliding Figure #405 the outer brake pad between the tire and disc as seen in Figure #405. Slide the caliper (with the inner brake pad) pins in to the holes on the mounting plate. Install the bolts that you just removed in Figure #406 and torque between 100‐140 inch pounds (8.33‐11.66 foot pounds).
Figure #406
Figure #407 Figure #408 Section AA09 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake Line Installation –Page #151
Connect each top gear leg brake hose to the forward mas‐ Figure #409 ter brake cylinder 90° fittings. Check all the hose connec‐ tions & elbows to make sure they are all tight, example shown in Figures #409, 410, 411 & 412.
Figure #410
Figure #411
Figure #412 Section AA09 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake Line Installation –Page #152
Attach a tube from the nozzle of a pressure tank containing Figure #413 the brake fluid to the brake bleeder valve as shown in Fig‐ ure #413. Make sure that the hose is bubble free before attaching.
Have one helper press & hold forward on one of the master Figure #414 cylinder shaft to fully extended to open up the internal by‐ pass valve, as shown in Figure #414.
Then open the bleeder valve. Pump brake fluid from the Figure #415 bleeder valve up in to the reservoir, until reservoir supply is about 1/4” full. Close the bleeder valve when complete and remove the service hose, as shown in Figure #415. Have your helper release the master cylinder pedal.
Repeat the same steps for the other side, but 3/4 fill the reservoir with the brake fluid. After you have completed both sides you will bleed the brake system to ensure no air is in the lines.
Have your helper press and hold the other side master cyl‐ Figure #416 inder pedal. Take a clean container to capture the brake fluid and open the other side bleeder valve, allow any brake fluid to drain in to the container. Close the bleeder valve and have your helper release the master cylinder and re‐ press again. Open the bleeder valve again and capture the brake fluid. Repeat until all air pockets are removed. Close the brake bleeder valve. When finished, the brake pedal should feel firm and not spongy. Repeat the same steps for the other side.
Section ENG03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Engine Baffling –Page #153
When installing the engine baffling you can either make Figure #417 your own or purchase our engine baffling kit. Our baffling kits will save you a lot of time, frustration & will ensure that you will have a good fit. Figure #417 shows our baffling kit laid out from front to back. We have laid out our kit in this fashion to give you a good idea in how to install the kit on your engine. You will need to make slight modifications to the baffling kit to have it mount correctly on your engine.
Start with panel #1. The panel will be placed at the forward Figure #418 front right side of the engine. As you fit the panel in posi‐ tion, you should see a place on the engine where you can mount the plate. Figure #418 has an arrow pointing to the location where we drilled a hole through the panel and connected it to the engine. Mark the location on the plate and drill the needed hole. Remove the bolt from the en‐ gine and place it through the panel and back in to the en‐ gine. Leave the bolt finger tight. We will later have to re‐ move all of the baffling panels to place on the rubber de‐ flectors.
Place panel #2 on the front right side of the engine. It will Figure #419 fit around the rocker cover. You will see two spots where you can install screws through the panel and in the engine. At this point, mark the securing points between panel #1 & #2. You may need to drill these locations and place nuts & bolts to hold the two panels together.
Section ENG03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Engine Baffling –Page #154
Panel #4 will require the spark plug hole to be drilled out, Figure #420 lockwire hole to be created on the lower tab location and will need to have rivet holes created between Panel #4 and Panel #3. Panel #4 will be attached to #3 panel using 4 or more rivets. Place the panels together as shown in Figure #420. Mark, drill and rivet the locations. The lockwire will string through the hole and connect to the front #1 panel. This will force the baffling panels to hug the engine tightly to ensure correct airflow.
Place the panels on the engine and secure using the two Figure #421 screw locations around the rocker cover. The screw loca‐ tions are shown in Figure #421 items 1‐4.
Place panel #9 left side forward of the engine. You should Figure #422 see two locations where this panel will be secured to the engine. Mark the two locations and drill out the needed holes. Figure #422 shows the panel secured to the engine.
Place panel #8 over the forward left side rocker cover and Figure #423 secure to the engine using two screws. Mark four securing locations between Panel #9 & #8. Drill and rivet the four locations. The holes you will need to create are shown in Figure #423. Section ENG03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Engine Baffling –Page #155
Figure #424 The next step is to sub‐assemble panels #5, #6 & #7 to‐ gether. Drill out a total of 8 holes. Figure #424 shows three holes evenly spaced between panel #5 and panel #6. Center the holes on the #5 bent edge. Drill through both the #5 panel and through #6 panel. Rivet the 3 locations together.
Place panel #7 under panel #6. Mark 3 evenly spaced loca‐ Figure #425 tion for rivets 1/2” from the edge of panel #6. You may need to drill out a lockwire location in panel #5 & panel #6 & create a hole in panel #6 for the spark plug wires, as shown in Figure #425.
Place the panels on the left side of the engine & secure the Figure #426 panels to the engine by placing two screws through panel #7 and around the left side rear rocker cover. The left side assembly will look like Figure #426.
The rear panels #4 & #5 will need to be secured together using either a bolt or rivet. Mark and drill through both panels to create a securing point.
At this point the rubber deflector will need to be cut to fit Figure #427 around your baffling. It is suggested you make the rubber baffling in to 5 separate pieces, two for the left & right side top, two for the left & right side lower front & one for the top rear of the engine. Figure #427 shows the baffling installed all the way around the engine. The rubber baffling should be about 3” wide. 1” of the rub‐ ber will be mounted on the metal panels and the left over 2” will be hanging over the metal panels. Cut the rubber to fit. When all of the rubber has been created, use spring clamps to hold in place, drill rivet hole locations spaced about 1” apart. Start from one end, drill the hole and place a washer on a rivet. Run the rivet through the rubber & metal baffling, then pop the rivet in place. Repeat the process until all of the baffling is secured. Section ENG03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Engine Baffling –Page #156
Figure #428 shows one of two rubber grommet used to Figure #428 protect the spark plug wires from rubbing the metal baf‐ fling. You can use any type of rubber grommet that will keep the wires from rubbing / chaffing on the metal baf‐ fling. However, if you use a large grommet that will allow air to go through it, you may have to silicone the opening of the grommet to stop the air from going through it. We suggest you use a solid grommet and cut out the unwanted rubber and fit the spark plug wires into it.
Figure #429 When the rubber baffling has been installed the next step is to run the lockwire between the front metal baffling and the rear baffling. Examples are shown in Figure #429 & #430.
Figure #430 Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #157
Find the 4 lift strut forks item (#W18B) Use a caliper to Figure #431 measure two of the forks, adjust the fork’s nut 2.360” from the center of the fork’s bolt hole, then adjust the other two fork’s nuts at 2.298” an example is shown in Figure #431.
Place tape on each nut and fork, so that the nut does not Figure #432 move out of the set measurement, example shown in Fig‐ ure #432. Use a magic marker to mark what fork is the front and rear. The front fork will be the longest measure‐ ment from the nut.
To place all 4 forks on the air frame, use a dead blow ham‐ Figure #433 mer. Lightly tap each fork in position. Take special care that you do not scratch or chip the airframes power coated paint, as seen in Figure #433. Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #158
Figure #434 When each fork is set in place use a NAS1106‐10D bolt and place in to the top of the fork and through the airframe. Use a metal punch and hammer to install each bolt. We suggest using an old towel or blanket to cover the side of the aircraft. The towel / blanket will help reduce any possi‐ ble damage to the aircrafts paint during install, shown in Figure #434.
Place a AN960‐616 washer on the end of the bolt, then Figure #435 torque a AN310‐6 castle nut to 18.74 foot pounds and then install the MS24665‐283 cotter pin. Bend cotter pin to complete each fork, shown in Figure #435.
Note: You may need to turn the nut back one hole to fit cotter pin in place after torque.
Brush on permatex anti‐seize (Part# 09‐28410) on each Figure #436 fork’s threads and lightly wipe off the excess with a paper towel. The threads should have a even covering as shown in Figure #436.
Place the aircraft in a wide open area so that you will have Figure #437 enough room to install both wings on to the aircraft. Use 1 saw horses and place the wing tip on it, the other saw horse should be placed at the 5th rib from the root end, as shown in Figure #437. Not doing this could damage the wing’s fabric. Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #159
Clean the airframes wing connecting points with a 5/16” Figure #438 ream tool, as shown in Figure #438. Make sure that the ream tool is straight when cleaning these holes. It is sug‐ gested to use a pair of vise grips to clamp on to the ream tool so that you can get in to the tight angles. All that you should need to clean is the power coated paint in the at‐ tachment point.
When installing each wing, you will need the assistance of Figure #439 2 other people (3 people in total). Have one person lift and carry the wing at the tip, the other to hold at the wings root. Carefully lift and position the wing in to place so that the front and rear spars slide through the steel brackets of the airframe. The third person will need to use 2 small punches or drift pins to temporally secure the wing in place, by sliding the pins through the steel brackets on the airframe (with the spars positioned in between each steel fitting), example shown in Figure #439.
The person who gets chosen to lift the wing at the tip, will Figure #440 be required to hold the wing up while the other two people get the lift struts installed. It might be a good idea to have the strongest helper located at the tip. The person at the wing tip will be needed to make slight adjustments when installing the lift struts. With the help of another person thread on the front lift strut until the strut touches the fork’s nut. The thick end of the strut must be facing for‐ ward for a correct install. The end of the strut needs to be held high when screwing on to the fork, as seen in Figure #440. Take great care when installing each lift strut, the last thing that you want to do, is cross thread these items.
Place the front lift strut on to the wing, use a small punch Figure #441 or drift pin to hold in position, as seen in Figure #441. Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #160
To install the rear lift strut, follow the same procedures Figure #442 that you did for the front strut. When both struts are in place, you can use a step latter to hold the wing up, keep‐ ing the aircraft and wing from tipping over. It is suggested to use either some pillows or blankets to protect the fabric and paint when doing this. The pillows or blankets will also assist with keeping the aircraft level, as shown in Fig‐ ure #442.
When both the front and rear lift struts are in place remove Figure #443 the front small punch holding pin and replace it with a AN5 ‐17A bolt & a AN960‐516 washer. The head of the bolt must be facing forward. Use a hammer and a driving pin to carefully knock in place, as shown in Figure #443. When the bolt is through place a AN960‐516 washer on the end of the bolt then use a AN365‐524A locknut. Then torque the nut at 100‐140 inch lbs (8.33‐116.66 foot lbs) to com‐ plete.
Figure #445 Remove the rear holding pin and replace it with a AN5‐15A Bolt & a AN960‐516 washer. Again the head of the bolt must be facing forward as well. Carefully tap the bolt in place with a hammer and driving pin, shown in Figure #445. When the bolt is through place a AN960‐516 washer on the end of the bolt then use a AN365‐524A lock‐ nut. Then torque the nut at 18.74 foot pounds to complete.
Figure #446 Figure #447
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #161
Figure #448
Remove the holding pin from the front lift strut and place a tie down ring on the wings attachment point. Take a AN5‐ 33A bolt and slide it in to the tie down ring and lift strut. The bolts head must be placed forward, then place the 3/4” spacer bushing at the end of the bolt then place the pulley assembly kit on the end of the bolt. Place a AN960‐516 washer and a AN365‐524A locknut to finish. The final as‐ sembly is shown in Figure #448. Figure #449 Note: The pulley assembly bracket must be installed at the same angle as the lift strut. Torque the bolt and locknut at 18.74 foot pounds to complete.
Remove the rear lift strut holding pin and replace it with a AN5‐22A bolt, the head of the bolt must be facing forward. Slide a AN960‐516 washer on the end of the bolt and finish with a AN365‐524A locknut. Torque the bolt and nut at 18.74 foot pounds to complete.
When the front and rear lift struts are complete, repeat the same procedures for the other wing and lift struts.
Installing Jury Struts Figure #450
Find the front and rear jury strut clamps item (#W25 & W26). Cut to size a strip of Teflon anti‐chafe tape and in‐ stall the Teflon tape inside each strut clamp, as shown in Figure #450.
Figure #451
Bend up two plumb lines, you could use old clothes hang‐ ers to make these or any metal rods. The main thing to remember is to make the plumb lines straight, as shown in Figure #451. Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Jury struts) –Page #162
The airframe must be level to have a correct plumb line Figure #452 location. Place a level along the top of the airframe by the front or rear window. When the airframe is level, hang two plumb lines in the jury strut holes attached at the wing, shown in Figure #452.
Use a long ruler to mark the center line on each lift strut. Figure #453 The ruler should be long enough to touch both front and rear lift strut. Mark a center line for both lift struts, shown in Figure #453.
Then install the front jury strut clamps. The front clamp Figure #454 will have a retainer clip on the backside of the clamp. Place the clamp center of your line, as shown in Figure #454.
Place a AN960‐10 washer on a AN3‐13A bolt , then run the Figure #455 bolt through the forward side of the front jury bracket then place a AN960‐10L washer on the bolt then thread a jury bracket tab on to the bolt with a AN960‐10L washer on the other side of the tab. Run the bolt through the other side of the jury bracket and then place a AN960‐10 washer and AN365‐1032 locknut on the end of the bolt. Figure #23 shows the full assembly. Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Jury struts) –Page #163
Pitot line to left side jury strut installation Figure #456 Take the front left side jury strut and measure 5” from the tip and use a magic marker to make a mark on the front edge. Use a center hole punch to score a starting mark and drill this location with a 1/8” Drill bit to start the hole. Drill the hole at a 45° angle. Then use a 17/64” drill bit to enlarge the hole as shown in Figure #456. Then repeat the same steps to the other side & end of the jury strut.
Cut a 2 foot piece of 03‐40400 ¼” aluminum tubing. Slide Figure #457 one end of the tubing in to the front side drill hole of the jury strut, then run the tubing through to the other drill hole. Leave 5” on each end of the tubing, then make 90° bends on both ends of the tubing, as shown in Figure #457.
Figure #458 Solder the aluminum tubing to the jury strut by using a propane torch. First heat both the jury strut and then alu‐ minum tubing. The jury strut will take a bit longer to heat up then the small aluminum tube. When both items are heated enough place solder between the jury strut and the tubing, fill the drill hole with solder, do not worry to much if its not pretty, the main concern is that the hole is com‐ pletely filled, as shown in Figure #458.
You will need to repeat this step to the other side of the jury strut. Figure #459 When the jury strut and aluminum tube are cooled file the solder so that its smooth and ecstatically pleasing, as shown in Figure #459.
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Jury struts) –Page #164
Figure #460 Place a front jury strut item #W23 on one side of the wings front tab location. The jury strut must be centered on the tab & the tip of the jury strut must not touch or rum the bottom of the wing. Use a magic marker and mark through the wings tab a center hole location, as seen in Figure #460.
Use a #11 Drill bit to drill the marked location, as shown in Figure #461 Figure #461.
Place a AN3‐4A bolt through the jury strut and wing tab, Figure #462 then place a AN355‐1032 locknut at the end of the bolt to temporally hold the jury strut in place. Place the lower end of the jury strut to the front lift strut clamp tab. Have the jury strut centered to the tab and mark a center hole loca‐ tion. You may have to cut the jury struts length to have a correct fit.
Remove the jury strut and drill the second hole.
After the second hole has been created and the length of Figure #463 the jury strut is to your satisfaction place the jury strut on to the wings attachment point. The jury strut should sit in between the wind’s tab. Place a AN3‐5A bolt through the jury strut & the wing tab , as shown in Figure #463.
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Jury struts) –Page #165
Place the lower end of the jury strut in between the lift Figure #464 strut’s tab. Place a AN3‐5A bolt through the holes, the bolts head must be pointing away from the aircraft, as shown in Figure #464.
Note: Repeat the same steps for the other three jury struts.
When all four jury struts are in place measure in between Figure #465 the front lower jury strut bolt location to the rear lower jury strut bolt location. Take the measurement of the distance. Find the jury strut spacer bar item #W27 and center the distance of your measurement along the length of the spacer bar. At both ends of the bar, mark a center hole location and drill using a #11 drill bit. Place the spacer bar in between the two lift struts and slide on to the lower jury bolts, as shown in Figure #465.
Note: Repeat the same steps for the other sides spacer bar.
The final out come should look like Figure #466. Figure #466
When both sets of jury struts and spacer bars are complete, label each item so when you remove them to paint, the re‐ assembly process will become much easier.
Figure #467 The final assembly for both sets of jury struts will use a AN960‐10 washer on the head of the AN3‐5A bolt, run the bolt through the jury strut, lift strut tab and spacer bar. Place another AN960‐10 washer on the end of the bolt and complete with a AN365‐1032 locknut for the lower jury struts. The upper jury struts use a AN3‐5A bolt with a AN960‐10 washer on the head of the bolt. Place the bolt through the jury strut & through the wing attachment point, place two AN960‐10 washers on the end of the bolt and complete with a AN365‐1032 locknut. PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #166
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
TOP & BOTTOM STRINGERS 24 AN526C 440‐16 1” Truss‐head screws 24 Ms21044N04 Locknuts
SIDE STRINGERS 15 AN526C 440‐8 1/2” Truss‐head screws 15 Ms21044N04 Locknuts
REAR TRIM INDICATOR PULLEY 1 AN3‐7 Bolt 1 AN3‐10 Washer 1 AN310‐3 Castle nut 1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin 2 AN526C 1032‐14 Truss‐head screws 2 MS21044N3 Locknuts
TRIM INDICATOR CABLE BRACKET 1 AN3‐7 Bolt 2 AN960‐10 Washers 1 AN310‐3 Castle nut 1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
JACK SCREW SUB‐ASSEMBLY 1 MS15003‐6 90 degree zerk fitting (grease nipple) 2 AN5‐7 Bolts 2 AN960‐516 Washers 2 AB960‐516L Washers 2 MS24665‐136 Cotter pins
JACK SCREW 3 AN960‐616 Washer 1 An960‐616L Washer 1 AN310‐6 Castel nut 1 MS24665‐140 Cotter pin
1” TRIM CABLE PULLEYS 2 AN3‐7 Bolts 2 AN960‐10 Washers 2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts 2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
FRONT IDLER PULLEY BRACKET 1 AN3‐5A Bolt 1 AN3‐5 Bolt 4 AN960‐3 Washers 1 AN365‐1032 Locknut 1 AN3103‐3 Castel nut 1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
REAR TRIM INDICATOR CABLE 1 AN3‐6 Bolt 1 AN960‐10L Washer 1 AN960‐10 Washer 1 AN380‐3 Castle nut 1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
TRIM INDICATOR POST INSTALL 2 CCP‐32 Rivets 1 AN366F‐1032A Anchor Nut 1 Unknown Part # Indicator Post
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #167
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
BALANCE CABLE PULLEY 1 AN3‐7 Bolt 1 AN3‐10 Washer 1 AN3‐10L Washer 1 AN310‐3 Castle nut 1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin 1 MS24665‐283 Cotter pin
RUDDER TEMPORARY INSTALL 2 MS20392‐3C53 Clevis pins
VERTICAL FIN INSTALL 1 AN3‐12A Bolt 1 AN3‐12 Bolt 3 AN960‐10 Washers 1 AN310‐3 Castle nut 2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
VERTICAL FIN SADDLE 1 CCP‐44 Rivets 1 AN526C 440‐8 Screw 1 MS21044N04 Locknut
FLOOR BOARDS –REAR BAGGAGE 18 18 x 13 x 1” Machine screws 18 AN365‐1032A Lock nuts
TORQUE TUB STOPS 2 AN3‐12A Bolts 2 1/4” Nuts
FLOOR BOARDS—2ND FRONT 4 10‐32 x1” Screws 2 AN960‐10 Washers 4 AN365‐1032A Lock nuts 2 AN970‐3 Penny washers
RUDDER PEDALS 4 D346000 Return Springs 16 AN3‐7A Bolts 16 AN960‐10 Washers 16 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
FLAP PULLEYS 5 AN5‐16A Bolts 5 AN970‐5 Large Penny Washers 8 AN960‐516 Washers 5 AN365‐524A Locknuts
REAR ELEVATOR BRACKETS 2 AN3‐5A Bolts 2 AN960‐10 Washers 2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts 2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
REAR ELEVATOR PULLEYS 2 AN3‐12 Bolts 4 AN960‐10 Washers 2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts 2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
FRONT ELEVATOR PULLEY 1 AN5‐10 Bolt 2 AN960‐516 Washers 1 AN310‐5 Castle nut 2 MS24665‐138 Cotter pin PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #168
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
TORQUE TUBE 1” Pulley 1 AN3‐7 Bolt 2 AN960‐10 Washers 1 AN310‐3 Castle nut 1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
TORQUE TUBE SADDLES 4 AN4‐14A Bolts 4 AN960‐416 Washers 4 AN365‐428A Locknuts
TORQUE TUBE CONTROL STICK 2 AN4‐23 Bolts 4 AN960‐416 Washers 2 AN310‐4 Castle nuts 2 MS24665‐134 Cotter pins
TORQUE TUBE CONNECTION TUBE 2 AN24‐14 Clevis pins 2 AN960‐416L Washers 2 AN320‐4 Shear nuts 2 MS24665‐281 Cotter pins
RUDDER CABLE TO PEDALS 4 AN3‐5 Bolts 8 AN960‐10 Washers 4 AN310‐3 Castle nuts 4 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
REAR RUDDER CABLE PULLEYS 2 AN3‐10 Bolts 6 AN960‐10 Washers 2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts 2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
LOWER AILERON PULLEYS 2 AN3‐7 Bolts 4 AN960‐10 Washers 2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts 2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
FRONT BRAKE PEDALS 8 AN3‐15A Bolts 8 AN960‐10 Washers 8 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
BRAKE CONNECTING RODS 4 AN3‐7 Bolts 4 AN970‐3 Penny washers 4 AN960‐3 Washers 4 AN310‐3 Castle nuts 4 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
HEEL BRAKES 8 AN3‐10 Bolts 8 AN970‐3 Washers 8 AN365‐1032A Locknuts 4 AN822‐4D 90° Elbow flared and pipe threaded
BRAKE RESERVOIR INSTALLATION 1 A‐315 Reservoir (firewall mounted style) 2 NAS1801‐3‐8 Bolts 2 CCP‐44 Rivets 1 AN825‐4D Fuel Tee flared & pipe threaded on side
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #169
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
GEAR LEG BRAKE LINES 8ft 03‐39300 1/4” Aluminum tubing 4 MS21919‐WDG4 Adel clamps 4 AN526C 1032‐8 S/S Machine Screws 4 AN365‐1032A Locknuts 4 AN818‐4 Nuts 4 AN819‐4D Sleeves 2 AN815‐4D Unions 2 AN822‐4 Elbows
FUEL VALVE MODIFICATION 1 6749 Weather head fuel shut‐off valve
FUEL SYSTEM 50ft 03‐40600 3/8” Aluminum tubing 4 AN825‐6D Tee 1 AN914‐2D Elbow 1 AN822‐6D Elbow 10 AN819‐6D Sleeves 10 AN818‐6D Nuts 1 AN929‐6D Cap 2 AN816‐6D Nipple 6 AN912‐2D Bushing 3/8” to 1/4” pipe thread reducer 2 AN910‐2D Pipe threaded coupling 2 CAV‐160 1/4 NPT SAF‐AIR Drain valve 6 04‐00049 3/8” T Series Cap plugs (unthreaded) 2 AN924‐6D 3/8” Flared tube bulkhead nuts 8 MS21919‐WDG6 3/8” Adel clamps 6 AN526C‐1032‐10 Stainless steel machine screws 8 AN365‐1032A Locknuts 1 bag 11‐04229 Cable ties
BATTERY CABLES & GROUND WIRE 1 11‐02233 12 Volt battery 1 111‐226 Master relay 30 ft 11‐14502 #2 AWG battery cable 10 ft 11‐14510 #10 AWG battery cable 100 ft 11‐14514 #14 AWG Wire for solenoids & Instrument Panel 4 MS21919‐DG6 3/8” Adel clamps 2 AN526C 1032‐8 1032 x 1/2” Machine screws 2 K1000‐3 10‐32 Anchor nuts 1 bag 11‐04229 Cable ties 2 MS25226‐8‐4 Buss bars
WING WIRING HARNESS ? ft 11‐14516 16 Gauge wire (navigation lights) ? ft 11‐14514 14 Gauge wire (Landing light &Aux fuel pump) 25 T4X4 #4 Truss head type A stainless screws
WING AUXILIARY FUEL PUMP 2 AN816‐6D Nipple 8 AN818‐6D Nut 8 AN819‐6D Sleeve 2 AN821‐6D Elbow
PITOT STATIC LINE 10 ft 03‐40400 1/4” Aluminum Tubing 25 T4X4 #4 Truss head type A stainless screws
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #170
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY 4 AN6‐26 Bolts for Conventional steps 4 AN6‐25 Bolts for Non‐Conventional steps 12 AN960‐616 Washers 4 AN310‐6 Castle nuts 4 MS24665‐283 Cotter pins
LANDING GEAR –SIDE STEP 1 AN3‐5 Bolt 2 AN960‐10 Washers 1 AN310‐3 Castle nut 1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
LANDING GEAR—CABANE V 2 AN5‐17A Bolts 4 AN960‐516 Washers 2 AN310‐5 Castle nuts 2 MS24665‐138 Cotter pins
SHOCK STRUTS—UPPER 2 AN6‐17 Bolts 4 AN960‐616 Washers 2 AN310‐6 Castle nut 2 MS24665‐283 Cotter pins
SHOCK STRUTS—LOWER 2 AN6‐22 Bolts 2 AN960‐616 Washers 2 AN310‐6 Castle nut 2 MS24665‐283 Cotter pins
TAIL WHEEL 1 AN7‐21A Bolt 1 AN6‐26A Bolt 1 AN5‐17A Bolt 1 AN960‐716 Washer 3 AN960‐616 Washer 3 AN960‐516 Washer 1 AN365‐720A Locknut 1 AN365‐624A Locknut 1 AN365‐524A Locknut
STABILIZER 2 AN3‐13A Bolts 2 AN3‐14A Bolts 8 AN960‐10 Washers 4 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
TAIL BRACE WIRES 3 AN4‐15A Bolts 2 AN3‐5A Bolts 2 U40131‐00 Bent Washers ‐ Univair P/N 9 AN960‐10 Washers 4 U82732‐072 Bushings ‐ Univair P/N 5 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #171
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
ELEVATORS 1 AN3‐7A Bolt 1 AN3‐7 Bolt 1 AN6‐7A Bolt 2 AN23‐11 Clevis bolts 4 AN394‐55 Clevis pins 6 AN960‐10 Washers 8 AN960‐416 Washers 4 AN960‐416L Washers 2 AN960‐616 Washers 1 AN365‐624A Locknut 1 AN365‐1032A Locknut 4 AN310‐3 Castle nuts 7 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
RUDDER 2 AN3‐13A Bolts 2 AN42B‐7A Bolts 2 AN23‐9 Clevis bolts 2 AN394‐55 Clevis pins 2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins 2 MS24665‐28 Cotter pins 16 AN960‐10 Washers 2 AN960‐10L Washers 4 AN365‐1032A Locknuts 2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts 1 06‐15900 Rudder Arm with 3/4” post 1 2151 Tension spring kit
SKYLIGHT & SIDE GLASS 1.5 sheet 03‐504‐10 4 x 8 Clear lexan 1 sheet 03‐504‐08 4 x 4 Clear lexan
MAIN WHEELS & BRAKES 8 AN5‐6A Bolts 8 AN960‐516 Washers 8 AN960‐516L Washers 8 AN365‐524A Locknuts 2 MS24665‐379 Cotter pin