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Armenia% 374 / POP 3,019,000

Armenia% 374 / POP 3,019,000

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Armenia% 374 / POP 3,019,000

Includes  Why Go? ...... 128 Few nations have histories as ancient, complex and laced ...... 156 with tragedy as (Հայաստան). And even fewer Canyon . . . . . 162 have a culture that is as rich and resilient. This is a des- ...... 166 tination where you will be intrigued by history, awed by monuments, amazed by the landscape and charmed by ...... 169 down-to-earth locals. It’s not an easy place to explore – ...... 171 roads are rough, transport is often hard to navigate and . . . . . 176 those who don’t speak Armenian or Russian may find ...... 182 communication difficult – but travelling here is as reward- Understand Armenia . .186 ing as it is revelatory. The simply extraordinary collection of medieval mon- Survival Guide...... 193 asteries scattered across the country is the number-one attraction, closely followed by a dramatically beautiful landscape that is perfectly suited to hiking and other out- door activities. And then there’s the unexpected delight of Best Places to Eat Yerevan – one of Europe’s most exuberant and endearing ¨¨Anteb (p143) cities. Put together, they offer an enticing and hugely en- ¨¨Ankyun (p144) joyable travel experience. ¨¨Cherkezi Dzor (p158) ¨¨Zanazan Restaurant (p173) When to Go ¨¨Most of Armenia has a dry, high-altitude climate, though there are some verdant rainy pockets in the Lori, and Best Places to regions. These receive the most rain in early spring. ¨¨Spring temperatures are mild and the countryside is Stay covered in wildflowers, making it a perfect time to go hiking. ¨¨Azoyan Guest House (p141) ¨¨Autumn has long, warm days and stable weather ¨¨Avan Hotel (p163) conditions. ¨¨Gohar’s Guest House ¨¨Summer in Yerevan can be 40°C with little or no breeze for (p177) days at a time; weather in the north is cooler. ¨¨Maghay B&B (p161) ¨¨Conditions in winter can be bleak, with temperatures falling ¨¨Marriott to -10°C or even lower in many areas. Roads are often closed (p174) due to snow and ice. ¨¨Tufenkian Historic Yerevan Hotel (p141) E Armenia Armenia Highlights G 127 N A G÷nc÷

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Goris R SYUNIK

Tatev H NAGORNO-

Mt Mets Beverafap (3616m) G E (p184) Kelbajar (Karvachar) Agarak

M 2 Istusu (Vaykunik) (3904m) . (2344m) njoying a high-altitude njoying (p180) . Mt Kaputjugh E Pass Soaring up to fortified fortified up to Soaring

Lchavan Makenyats Vank picnic in front of a 14th-century a 14th-century of picnic in front Selim on scenic caravanserai Pass 8 car cable 7 on the world’s longest longest world’s on the monastery at Tatevmonastery surrounding . (p176) Karchagbyur DZOR VAYOTS Nax…ivan City Vanevank

Yeghegnadzor (NAX†IVAN) AZERBAIJAN Lake Sevan Getap Ttujur TAVUSH Arpi Noravank Ijevan

Getik E

Aghstev G

Chambarak N Valley

Sevanavank A R (2410m) A

M Canyon Debed A Selim Pass H S÷d÷r÷k E G xploring somnolent xploring somnolent

Yenokavan G Sevan 4 Yeraskh Watching the sun slowly the sun slowly Watching Visiting medieval fresco- medieval Visiting E Dilijan ARARAT Ararat villages, ruins and an old ruins villages, in Yeghegis cemetery Jewish . (p178) Valley 5 6 4 set over the dramatic cliffs cliffs the dramatic over set covered churches of the of churches covered dramatic . (p162) Monastery Debed Canyon Debed (2114m) Abovian Tumanyan (2061m) Sevan Pass 6 50 km Mt Kotuts River 30 miles

Tsaghkadzor

Charentsavan Araks (3101m) Alaverdi (56km) Tbilisi Masis Mt Tekhenik (p128) .

RANGE Yerevan LORI

PAMBAK Artashat wine bars and wine bars Mt Ararat Gorge (3081m) (Masis) (5165m) () (3925m) (Echmaidzin) Little Mt Ararat Aghtsk Mt Maymekh Mt Aragats Doµubayaz‰t njoying time in the wel- time in the njoying E 0 0

arvelling at the ancient Marvelling Hiking between spec- Hiking between Igdir Armavir 1 Gyumri rock-hewn churches at churches rock-hewn . (p149) Monastery Geghard 3 in monasteries sited tacularly . (p154) Gorge the Kasagh coming cafes, cafes, coming Yerevan of restaurants 2 Armenia Highlights 1 GEORGIA Talin