©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Armenia% 374 / POP 3,019,000 Includes ¨ Why Go? Yerevan . .. 128 Few nations have histories as ancient, complex and laced Gyumri . 156 with tragedy as Armenia (Հայաստան). And even fewer Debed Canyon . 162 have a culture that is as rich and resilient. This is a des- Dilijan . 166 tination where you will be intrigued by history, awed by monuments, amazed by the landscape and charmed by Ijevan . 169 down-to-earth locals. It’s not an easy place to explore – Lake Sevan . 171 roads are rough, transport is often hard to navigate and Yeghegnadzor . 176 those who don’t speak Armenian or Russian may find Goris . 182 communication difficult – but travelling here is as reward- Understand Armenia . .186 ing as it is revelatory. The simply extraordinary collection of medieval mon- Survival Guide . .. 193 asteries scattered across the country is the number-one attraction, closely followed by a dramatically beautiful landscape that is perfectly suited to hiking and other out- door activities. And then there’s the unexpected delight of Best Places to Eat Yerevan – one of Europe’s most exuberant and endearing ¨ Anteb (p143) cities. Put together, they offer an enticing and hugely en- ¨ Ankyun (p144) joyable travel experience. ¨ Cherkezi Dzor (p158) ¨ Zanazan Restaurant (p173) When to Go ¨ Most of Armenia has a dry, high-altitude climate, though there are some verdant rainy pockets in the Lori, Tavush and Best Places to Syunik regions. These receive the most rain in early spring. ¨ Spring temperatures are mild and the countryside is Stay covered in wildflowers, making it a perfect time to go hiking. ¨ Azoyan Guest House (p141) ¨ Autumn has long, warm days and stable weather ¨ Avan Dzoraget Hotel (p163) conditions. ¨ Gohar’s Guest House ¨ Summer in Yerevan can be 40°C with little or no breeze for (p177) days at a time; weather in the north is cooler. ¨ Maghay B&B (p161) ¨ Conditions in winter can be bleak, with temperatures falling ¨ Marriott Tsaghkadzor to -10°C or even lower in many areas. Roads are often closed (p174) due to snow and ice. ¨ Tufenkian Historic Yerevan Hotel (p141) 127 GEORGIA Tbilisi (56km) GEORGIA Tashir Shamlugh Noyemberyan Alaverdi Akhtala 1 Debed Canyon Stepanavan Tumanyan Ijevan LORI 6 Yenokavan Spitak Berd Vanadzor TAVUSH Gyumri Dilijan Mt Maymekh Mt Tekhenik Aghstev (3081m) (3101m) Ttujur PAMBAK Sevan Pass Getik AZERBAIJAN Aparan (2114m) G÷nc÷ Artik Chambarak Sevan ARMENI Mt Aragats RANGETsaghkadzor Sevanavank Maralik 4 Chkalovka Mastara Hrazdan ARAGATSOTN Hayravank Charentsavan KOTAYK Tsapatagh Kasagh Gorge G Byurakan E Noratus A Yeghvard G Gavar Talin ARMEN Aghtsk H Nor Hachn A Lake Abovian M Ashtarak A Sevan Karchagbyur Vardenis Metsamor Yerevan R A Martuni Artsvanist ia Vagharshapat N Lchavan G Armavir (Echmaidzin) Geghard E Makenis H Monastery Kelbajar ARMAVIR Masis Vanevank Makenyats Vank (Karvachar) ighligh Mt Kotuts Selim Pass (2061m) (2410m) NAGORNO- Artashat ARARAT GEGHARKUNIK Igdir Istusu KARABAKH Araks Vedi (Vaykunik) Yeghegis Jermuk TURKEY Ararat Valley T River Yeghegnadzor Mt Mets S Mt Ararat Yeraskh Arpi (Masis) (5165m) Areni Vorotan Pass Beverafap Malishka (2344m) (3616m) S÷d÷r÷k Getap Noravank Vayk Little Mt Ararat VAYOTS Khndzoresk (Sis) (3925m) Arpa DZOR 2 Aghitu Doµubayaz‰t Sisian Goris Harzhis AZERBAIJAN Aravus (NAX†IVAN) Dastakert Halidzor Tatev Nax…ivan City Mt Kaputjugh Kajaran (3904m) Kapan MEG HRI RA IRAN NG SYUNIK E Meghri Agarak 0 50 km 0 30 miles Armenia Highlights 1 Enjoying time in the wel- 4 Visiting medieval fresco- surrounding Noravank coming cafes, wine bars and covered churches of the (p176) . restaurants of Yerevan (p128) . dramatic Debed Canyon 7 Enjoying a high-altitude 2 Marvelling at the ancient (p162) . picnic in front of a 14th-century rock-hewn churches at 5 Exploring somnolent caravanserai on scenic Selim Geghard Monastery (p149) . villages, ruins and an old Pass (p180) . 3 Hiking between spec- Jewish cemetery in Yeghegis 8 Soaring up to fortified tacularly sited monasteries in Valley (p178) . monastery at Tatev (p184) the Kasagh Gorge (p154) . 6 Watching the sun slowly on the world’s longest set over the dramatic cliffs cable car ..