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Home , Kicking Horse River, MV Lady Rose, Ninstints, Prince of Wales Hotel, Robson Bight

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1 The Best of & the

British Columbia and the Canadian Rockies, which stretch across the provincial bor- der into , are extravagantly scenic and quietly sophisticated. The diversity of landscapes is astounding: You’ll travel from cactus-studded desert to soaring moun- taintops and on to wilderness ocean beaches. You can visit traditional Native Cana- dian villages, thread through market stalls in the largest Chinese community outside of Asia, and cheer on cowboys at an old-fashioned rodeo. As for creature comforts, British Columbia and the Rockies are famed for their lux- ury hotels, rustic guest ranches, quiet inns, and B&Bs. And the food? With Alberta beef, Pacific salmon, and some of the world’s most fertile farm and orchard land, these two provinces champion excellent regional cuisine. Finally, there’s no better place to get outdoors and enjoy yourself. These areas are flush with ski resorts and golf courses, hiking is a near universal passion, and you’ll find no better spot on earth to try your hand at adventure sports like sea kayaking, trail riding, or scuba diving. This guide is chock-full of recommendations and tips to help you plan and enjoy your trip to western ; the following are the best of the best, places and experi- ences you won’t want to miss.

1 The Best Travel Experiences • Wandering ’s West End: said the British don’t know good Vancouver is one of the most cosmo- food? The afternoon tea at the politan cities in the world, and wan- Empress is world-renowned, a little dering the streets, people-watching, stuffy, and very expensive; if that and sipping cappuccinos at street doesn’t sound like fun to you, we’ll cafes can fill an entire weekend. Stroll show you other places where tea is up Robson Street with its busy bou- more reasonably priced and a lot less tique-shopping scene, turn down formal. See chapter 5. cafe-linedCOPYRIGHTED Denman Street, then stride • Ferrying MATERIAL through the Gulf Islands: into 405-hectare (1,000-acre) Stanley The Gulf Islands, a huddle of cliff- Park, a gem of green space with old- lined, forested islands between Van- growth cedars, miles of walkways, couver Island and the British and the city’s excellent aquarium. See Columbia mainland, can only be chapter 4. reached via ferry. Hop from island to • Taking Tea in : Yeah, it’s a lit- island, staying at excellent country tle corny, but it’s also fun—and deli- inns and B&Bs; peddle the quiet cious. Tea, scones, clotted cream—who farm roads on your bike, stopping to 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE CANADIAN ROCKIES visit artists’ studios or to quaff a pint clamber up the steep desert-valley in a cozy rural pub. The romantic walls. Taste delicious wines, go for a getaway you’ve been dreaming of swim, play some golf, eat at excellent starts and ends right here on these restaurants, and do it all again tomor- idyllic islands. See chapter 6. row. See chapter 12. • Traveling the Inside Passage: The • Skiing the Canadian Rockies: You 15-hour Inside Passage ferry cruise can hit all three ski areas in Banff aboard the MV Queen of the North National Park with a one-price ticket, takes you from ’s using the frequent shuttle buses to Port Hardy along an otherwise inac- ferry you and your skis from resort to cessible coastline north to Prince resort. The skiing is superlative, the Rupert, near the southern tip of the scenery astounding, and—best of Alaska Panhandle. Orcas swim past all—you can stay at Banff’s luxury the ferry, bald eagles soar overhead, hotels for a fraction of their astronomi- and the dramatic scenery—a narrow cal summer rates. See chapter 15. channel of water between a series of • Riding Herd at a Guest Ranch: The mountain islands and the craggy edge of the Great Plains nudges up to mainland—is utterly spectacular. See the face of the Canadian Rockies in chapter 10. Alberta, making this some of the most • Wine Tasting in the Okanagan Val- fertile and beautiful ranching country ley: The Okanagan Valley in central anywhere. For more than a century, British Columbia has some of the most ranches have welcomed guests to their arid climatic conditions in Canada, rustic lodges and cabins, offering trail but with irrigation, grape varietals like rides, cattle drives, evening barbecues, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot and barn dances that’ll keep you noir flourish here. Vineyards line the entertained whether you’re a green- edges of huge, glacier-dug lakes and horn or an old hand. See p. 252.

2 The Best Active Vacations • Hiking the West Coast Trail: Hiking and Port Hardy are popular departure the entire length of the rugged 69km points, with outfitters ready to drop (43-mile) West Coast Trail, from Port you into the briny world of the wolf Renfrew to on Vancouver eel, yellow-edged cadlina, and giant Island, takes 5 to 7 days, but it’s truly Pacific octopus. See chapters 7 and 8. the hike of a lifetime. This wilderness • Kayaking : Paddle coastline, edged with old-growth for- a kayak for 4 or 5 days through the est and lined with cliffs, is utterly waters of Clayoquot Sound on Van- spectacular, and can be reached only couver Island’s wilderness west coast, on foot. If you’re not up for it, con- from the funky former fishing village sider an 11km (7-mile) day trip on of Tofino to a natural hot-springs the more easily accessible stretch just bath near an ancient Native village. south of Bamfield. See p. 166. Along the way, you’ll see thousand- • Scuba Diving off Vancouver Island: year-old trees and glaciers, whales, According to no less an authority and bald eagles. And if the pocket- than Jacques Cousteau, the waters off book allows, you can stop in at Vancouver Island offer some of the resorts that offer some of the best cui- best diving in the world. Nanaimo sine in the world. See p. 172. 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 7

THE BEST NATURE- & WILDLIFE-VIEWING 7 • Salmon Fishing from Campbell campsites, and shelters. The full cir- River: Even though salmon fishing is cuit is a 7-day trip, but the memories not what it once was, Campbell River will last a lifetime. See p. 263. is still the “Salmon-Fishing Capital of • Heli-Skiing near Golden: Heli- the World.” Join a day trip with an copters lift adventurous skiers to the outfitter and fish the waters of Dis- tops of the Selkirk and Purcell moun- covery Passage. Get ready to hook the tains that rise just west of Golden, big one! Even if your trophy salmon accessing acres of virgin powder far gets away (or you’re required to from the lift lines and crowds of tradi- release it), you’ll see plenty of tional ski resorts. CMH Heli-Skiing wildlife: bald eagles, seals, even orcas (& 800/661-0252) offers a variety of and porpoises. See p. 185. holidays, most based out of its private • Rafting the and Fraser high-country lodges and reached only Rivers: This 3-day white-water by helicopter. See p. 303. extravaganza flushes you from the • Cross-Country Skiing at Canmore: slopes of the glaciered Coast Range The 1988 Olympic cross-country down through shadowy canyons to skiing events were held at Canmore, the roiling waters of the mighty on the edge of Banff National Park. , second in North Am- The routes at the Canmore Nordic erica only to the in Centre (& 403/678-2400) are now power and size. A number of outfit- open to the public and offer 70km ters in Williams Lake offer river (43 miles) of world-class skiing. See options ranging from half-day thrill p. 352. rides to multiday trips with catered • Lodge-to-Lodge Trail Riding in camping. See p. 257. Banff National Park: See the park’s • Canoeing Bowron Lakes Provincial backcountry without getting blisters Park: Every summer, canoeists and on your feet. Instead, get saddle-sore kayakers set out to navigate a perfect as you ride horseback on a 3-day 120km (74-mile) circle of six alpine excursion, spending the nights in lakes, with minimal portages in remote but comfortable mountain between. There are no roads or other lodges. Warner Guiding and Outfit- signs of civilization beyond the launch ting (& 800/661-8352) provides all point, except some well-placed cabins, meals and lodging, plus oats for Sil- ver. See p. 363.

3 The Best Nature- & Wildlife-Viewing • Tide Pools at Botanical Beach near • Bald Eagles near Victoria: Just a few Port Renfrew: Waves have eroded miles north of Victoria is one of the potholes in the thrust of sandstone world’s best bald eagle–spotting sites: that juts into the Pacific at Botanical Goldstream Provincial Park. Recent Beach, which remain water-filled counts put the number of eagles win- when the waves ebb. Alive with tering here at around 4,000. (Jan is starfish, sea anemones, hermit crabs, the best month for viewing, though and hundreds of other sea creatures, there are eagles here year-round.) See these potholes are some of the best p. 140. places on Vancouver Island to explore • Gray Whales at Pacific Rim National the rich intertidal zone. See p. 137. Park: Few sights in nature match 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE CANADIAN ROCKIES observing whales in the wild. March Golden and Windermere, the Colum- is the prime viewing time, as the bia River flows through a valley filled whales migrate north from their win- with fluvial lakes, marshes, and ter home off Mexico. During March, streams—perfect habitat for hundreds both Tofino and Ucluelet celebrate of species, including moose and coy- the Pacific Rim Whale Festival; out- otes. Protected as a wildlife refuge, the fitters offer whale-watching trips out wetlands are on the migratory flyway onto the Pacific. See chapter 7. that links Central America to the Arc- • Orcas at : From whale- tic; in spring and fall, the waterways watching boats out of fill with thousands of birds—over 270 or Port McNeill, watch orcas (killer different species. Outfitters in Golden whales) as they glide through the operate float trips through the wet- in search of salmon, lands. See p. 305. and rub their tummies on the pebbly • Elk in Banff National Park: You beaches at Vancouver Island’s Robson won’t need to mount an expedition to Bight. See p. 196. sight elk in Banff: They graze in the • Spawning Salmon at Adams River: city parks and on people’s front lawns. Every October, the Adams River fills To see these animals in their own habi- with salmon, returning to their home tat, take the Fenlands Trail just west of water to spawn and die. While each Banff to Vermillion Lakes, another autumn produces a large run of favorite grazing area. See chapter 15. salmon, every fourth year (the next • Black Bears in Waterton Lakes are 2006 and 2010), an estimated 1.5 National Park: There are black bears to 2 million sockeye salmon struggle throughout the Canadian west, but upstream to spawn in the Adams chances are good you’ll spot a bear or River near Squilax. Roderick Haig- two along the entry road to Waterton Brown Provincial Park has viewing Lakes National Park, where the open platforms and interpretive programs. grasslands of the prairies directly abut See p. 269. the sheer faces of the Rocky Moun- • Songbirds and Waterfowl at the tains (remember, bears are originally Columbia River Wetlands: Between prairie animals). See p. 399.

4 The Best Family-Vacation Experiences • The Beaches near Parksville and longest fiord on Vancouver Island’s Qualicum Beach: The sandy beaches rugged west coast. Along the way, near these towns warm in the sum- you may spot eagles, bears, and por- mer sun, then heat the waters of poises. The MV Lady Rose is large Georgia Strait when the tides return. enough to be stable, yet small enough Some of the warmest ocean waters in to make this daylong journey from the Pacific Northwest are here, mak- to Bamfield and back ing for good swimming and family seem like a real adventure. See p. 165. vacations. See chapter 7. • The Okanagan Lakes: Sunny • The MV Lady Rose (& 800/663- weather, sandy lake beaches, and 7192): This packet steamer delivers miles of clean, clear water: If this mail and merchandise to isolated sounds like the ideal family vacation, marine communities along the other- then head to the lake-filled Okana- wise inaccessible Alberni Inlet, the gan Valley. Penticton and Kelowna 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 9

THE BEST PLACES TO REDISCOVER NATIVE CANADIAN CULTURE & HISTORY 9 have dozens of family-friendly hotels, that the labor has been volunteer and watersports rentals, and lakeside that all the work was done using tools parks and beaches. Mom and Dad and techniques from the 1880s. Take can enjoy the golf and wineries as the kids and give them a lesson in his- well. See chapter 12. tory and volunteerism! See p. 323. • Fort Steele Heritage Town (& 250/ • The Kicking Horse River: One of 426-7352): In 1864, the frontier the best white-water rafting trips in community of Fort Steele was a min- the Rockies is on the Kicking Horse ing boomtown with a population of River near Golden. While it’s the 4,000. Twenty years later, the town treacherous Class IV rapids that give was practically abandoned, soon the river its fame, there are also becoming a ghost town. Now a stretches gentle enough for the entire provincial heritage site, Fort Steele family. Better yet, most outfitters run again bustles with life: The town has simultaneous trips on both sections been largely rebuilt, other historic of the river, so part of your brood can structures have been moved in, and run the rapids while the other enjoys daily activities with living-history a leisurely float through lovely Rocky actors give this town a real feel of the Mountain scenery. See p. 304. Old West. See p. 309. • West Edmonton Mall (& 800/661- • Fort Calgary Historic Park (& 403/ 8890): Okay, so it’s a mall. But what 290-1875): This reconstruction of a mall! Within its 483,000 sq. m (5.2 the Mountie fort on the banks of the million sq. ft.) are 800 stores and a —and the genesis for the mammoth entertainment center that city of Calgary—has always been contains a complete amusement interesting, as volunteers have been in park, roller coaster, bungee-jumping the process of rebuilding the original platform, and lake-size swimming fort. In the last couple years, critical pool with real sand beaches and mass has been reached and new/old rolling waves. You can also ice skate, Fort Calgary is really taking shape: watch performing dolphins, ride a It’s gone from a good idea to a great submarine, attend movies at 19 thea- attraction. But what’s really cool is ters—oh, and get your shopping done, too. See p. 336.

5 The Best Places to Rediscover Native Canadian Culture & History • Quw’utsun’ Cultural Centre (Dun- Canada, Alert Bay is a short ferry ride can; & 877/746-8119): North of from northern Vancouver Island. Victoria, this facility contains a thea- Totem poles face the waters, and ter, carving shed, ceremonial clan cedar-pole longhouses are painted house, restaurant, and art gallery, all with traditional images and symbols. dedicated to preserving traditional The U’Mista Cultural Centre history and culture. Try to (& 250/974-5403) contains a collec- visit when the tribe is preparing a tra- tion of carved masks, baskets, and pot- ditional salmon bake. See p. 143. latch ceremonial objects. See p. 198. • Alert Bay (off Vancouver Island): • Gwaii Haanas National Park One of the best-preserved and still Reserve (Queen Islands): vibrant Native villages in western A UNESCO World Heritage Site 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE CANADIAN ROCKIES and a Canadian national park, this is pre-Contact replica village, complete the ancient homeland of the Haida with longhouses and totem poles. No people. Located on the storm-lashed ordinary tourist gimmick, the village Queen Charlottes, it isn’t easy or houses a 4-year carving school, cheap to get to: You’ll need to kayak, Native-art gift shop, traditional- sail, or fly in on a floatplane. But dance performance space, artists’ stu- once here, you’ll get to visit the pre- dios, restaurant, and visitor center. historic village of , aban- See p. 241. doned hundreds of years ago and still • Secwepemc Museum & Heritage shadowed by decaying totem poles. Park (Kamloops; & 250/828-9801): See p. 234. This heritage preserve contains a • ’Ksan Historical Village (; Native Secwepemc village archaeo- & 877/842-5518): The Gitxsan logical site from 2,400 years ago, plus people have lived for millennia at the re-creations of village structures from confluence of the and Bulkley five different eras. It’s not all just his- rivers, hunting and spearing salmon tory here: The Shuswap, as the from the waters. On the site of an Secwepemc are now called, also per- ancient village near present-day form traditional songs and dances Hazelton, the Gitxsan have built a and sell art objects. See p. 265.

6 The Best Museums & Historic Sites • Museum of Anthropology (Vancou- then visit a fur trapper’s cabin and see ver; & 604/822-3825): Built to tools from a pioneer-era sawmill. See resemble a traditional longhouse, this p. 186. splendid museum on the University • North Pacific Historic Fishing Vil- of British Columbia campus contains lage (Port Edward; & 250/628-3538): one of the finest collections of North- Salmon canning was big business in west Native art in the world. Step northern British Columbia in the around back to visit two traditional early 20th century. Located on the longhouses. See p. 83. waters of Inverness Passage, this iso- • Royal British Columbia Museum lated cannery built an entire working (Victoria; & 888/447-7977): The community of 1,200 people—com- human and natural history of coastal plete with homes, churches, and British Columbia is the focus of this stores—on boardwalks and piers. excellent museum. Visit a frontier Now a national historic site, the main street, view lifelike dioramas of mothballed factory is open for tours, coastal ecosystems, and gaze at ancient and you can even spend a night at the artifacts of the First Nations peoples. old hotel. See p. 229. Outside, gaze upward at the impressive • Fort St. James National Historic Site collection of totem poles. See p. 107. (Vanderhoof; & 250/996-7191): In • The Museum at Campbell River summer, the rebuilt log Fort St. James (Campbell River; & 250/287-3103): trading post hums with activity, as The highlight of this regional actors play the roles of explorers, museum is a multimedia presentation traders, and craftspeople. This open- that retells a Native Indian myth air museum of frontier life is a replica using carved ceremonial masks. After- of the first non-Native structure in wards, explore the extensive collection British Columbia, constructed in of contemporary aboriginal carving, 1806. See p. 243. 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 11

THE MOST SCENIC VIEWS 11 • Barkerville (83km/51 miles east of museums, the Glenbow has fascinat- ; & 250/994-3332): Once ing displays on the Native and settle- the largest city west of Chicago and ment history of the Canadian Great north of San Francisco—about Plains, plus changing art shows and 100,000 people passed through dur- thematic exhibitions. The gift shop is ing the 1860s—the gold-rush town a good place to find local crafts. See of Barkerville is one of the best-pre- p. 323. served ghost towns in Canada. Now a • Bar U Ranch National Historic Site provincial park, it comes to life in (Longview; & 403/395-2212): A summer, when costumed “townspeo- working ranch established in the ple” go about their frontier way of life 1880s, the Bar U preserves the arti- amid a completely restored late-Vic- facts and lifestyles of Alberta’s cattle- torian pioneer town. See p. 262. ranching past. This is still a real ranch: • Glenbow Museum (Calgary; & 403/ You might catch a rodeo one day, a 268-4100): One of Canada’s finest calf branding the next. See p. 332.

7 The Most Scenic Views • Vancouver from Cloud Nine North America. Alpenglow Aviation (& 604/662-8328): Situated on the (& 888/244-7117) offers flights top floor of the tallest building in along the Continental Divide in the Vancouver, towering 42 floors above Rockies, culminating with views of the city, the rotating restaurant/ the Columbia Icefields, the world’s lounge Cloud Nine has 360-degree largest nonpolar ice cap. See p. 304. views that go on forever. • Sulphur Mountain in Banff • The Canadian Rockies from Eagle’s National Park: Ride the gondola up Eye Restaurant (& 250/344-8626): to the top of Sulphur Mountain for The Kicking Horse Mountain Resort tremendous views of the cliff-faced isn’t just the newest skiing area in the mountains that frame Banff. Hike the Canadian Rockies. This exciting devel- ridge-top trails, have lunch in the cof- opment also boasts the highest-eleva- fee shop, or run through an entire roll tion restaurant in all of Canada. The of film. See p. 365. Eagle’s Eye sits at the top of the slopes, • Moraine Lake in Banff National 2,410m (7,905 ft.) above sea level. Park: Ten snow-clad peaks towering Ascend the gondola to find eye-popping more than 3,000m (10,000 ft.) rear up views of high-flying glaciered crags— dramatically behind this tiny, eerily and excellent cuisine. See p. 307. green lake. Rent a canoe and paddle to • Calgary Tower (& 403/266-7171): the mountains’ base. See p. 376. At 191m (626 ft.), this is one land- • Waterton Lakes from the Garden mark that you’ll want to get on top Court Restaurant at the Prince of of. From the windows of this revolv- Wales Hotel (& 403/859-2231): ing watchtower, you’ll see the face of There are lots of great views of the the to the west and Canadian Rockies, but perhaps the the endless prairies to the east. If you most singular is the view from the like the view, stay for dinner or a Prince of Wales Hotel, high above drink. See p. 322. . With blue-green water • Flightseeing over Banff and Jasper stretching back between a series of National Parks: Fly over some of rugged snowcapped peaks, the view is at the most dramatic landscapes in once intimate and primeval. See p. 402. 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE CANADIAN ROCKIES

8 The Most Dramatic Drives • The Sea-to-Sky Highway: Officially • Williams Lake to Bella Coola: Start Highway 99, this drive is a lesson in at the ranching town of Williams geology. Starting in West Vancouver, Lake, and turn your car west toward the amazing route begins at sea level the looming Coast Mountains. High- at and the Squamish way 20 crosses the arid Fraser River Cliffs—sheer rock faces rising hun- plateau, famed for its traditional cat- dreds of feet—then up a narrowing tle ranches, until reaching the high fiord, climbing up to Whistler, at the country near Anaheim Lake. After crest of the rugged, glacier-clad Coast edging through 1,500m (4,920-ft.) Mountains. Continue over the Heckman Pass, the route descends mountains and drop onto Lillooet. what the locals simply call “The Here, on the dry side of the moun- Hill”: a 32km (20-mile) stretch of tains, is an arid plateau trenched by road that drops from the pass to sea the rushing Fraser River. See p. 208. level with gradients of 18%. The road • The Sunshine Coast: Highway 101 terminates at Bella Coola on the follows the mainland British Colum- Pacific, where summer-only ferries bia coast from West Vancouver, cross- depart for Port Hardy on northern ing fiords and inlets twice on ferries Vancouver Island. See p. 258. on its way to Powell River. On the • The Icefields Parkway (Hwy. 93 east side rise the soaring peaks of the through Banff and Jasper national Coast Mountains, and to the west lap parks): This is one of the world’s the waters of the Georgia Strait, with grandest mountain drives. On a road the green bulk of Vancouver Island trip back to the ice ages, you’ll climb rising in the middle distance. From past glacier-notched peaks to the Powell River, you can cross over to Columbia Icefields, a sprawling cap Vancouver Island on the BC Ferries of snow, ice, and glacier at the very service to . See chapter 7. crest of the Rockies. See p. 380.

9 The Best Walks & Rambles • Vancouver’s Seawall: of several hiking trails that climb Stroll, jog, run, blade, bike, skate, through old-growth forests to misty ride—whatever your favorite mode of waterfalls and alpine meadows. transport is, use it, but by all means Return to the trail head, doff your get out here and explore this wonder- hiking shorts, and skinny-dip in gem- ful park. See p. 64. blue Buttle Lake. See p. 192. • Victoria’s Inner Harbour: Watch the • Johnston Canyon in Banff National boats and aquatic wildlife come and Park: Just 24km (15 miles) west of go while walking along a pathway Banff, Johnston Creek cuts a deep, that winds past manicured gardens. very narrow canyon through lime- The best stretch runs south from the stone cliffs. The trail winds through Inner Harbour near the Parliament tunnels, passes waterfalls, edges by Buildings, past the Royal London shaded rock faces, and crosses the Wax Museum. See chapter 5. chasm on footbridges before reaching • Strathcona Provincial Park: Buttle a series of iridescent pools, formed by Lake, which lies at the center of springs that bubble up through highly Strathcona Provincial Park, is the hub colored rock. See p. 362. 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 13

THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS & RESORTS 13 • Plain of Six Glaciers Trail in Banff • Maligne Canyon in Jasper National National Park: From Chateau Lake Park: As the Maligne River cascades Louise, a trail rambles along the edge from its high mountain valley to its of emerald-green Lake Louise, then appointment with the Athabasca climbs up to the base of Victoria River, it carves a narrow, deep chasm Glacier. At a rustic teahouse, you can in the underlying limestone. Spanned order a cup of tea and scones—each by six footbridges, the canyon is laced served up from a wood-fired stove— with trails and interpretive sites. See and gaze up at the rumpled face of p. 382. the glacier. See p. 376.

10 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts • Fairmont (Vancou- isolation fool you. New and dazzling, ver; & 800/441-1414): Built by the the resort has beautifully furnished on the site rooms, villas, and cottages, all over- of two previous Hotel Vancouvers, looking a peaceful harbor. The spa, this landmark opened in 1929. The restaurant, and facilities are absolutely château-style exterior, the lobby, and first class. See p. 134. even the guest rooms—now thor- • Wickaninnish Inn (Tofino; & 800/ oughly restored—are built in a style 333-4604): Standing stalwart in the and on a scale reminiscent of the great forest above the sands of Chesterman European railway hotels. See p. 67. Beach, this new log, stone, and glass • The Fairmont Empress (Victoria; structure boasts incredible views over & 800/441-1414): Architect Francis the Pacific and extremely comfortable Rattenbury’s masterpiece, luxury-level guest rooms. The dining has charmed princes (and their room is equally superlative. See p. 176. princesses), potentates, and movie • Four Seasons Resort Whistler moguls since 1908. If there’s one (Whistler; & 888/935-2460 or 604/ hotel in Canada that represents a 935-3400): This grand—even monu- vision of bygone graciousness and mental—hotel is the classiest place to class, this is it. See p. 99. stay in Whistler, which is saying some- • Hastings House Country Estate thing. This is a hotel with many (Salt Spring Island; & 800/661- moods, from the Wagnerian scale of 9255): This farm matured into a the stone-lined lobby to the precise country manor and was then con- gentility of the guest rooms to the faint verted into a luxury inn. The manor and welcome silliness of the tiled and house is now an acclaimed restaurant; back-lit stone fixtures of the restaurant. the barn and farmhouse have been This is a hotel that’s not afraid to make remade into opulent suites. You big statements. See p. 216. might feel like you’ve been trans- • Fairmont Palliser (Calgary; & 800/ ported to an idealized English estate, 441-1414): Calgary’s landmark his- if it weren’t for those wonderful views toric hotel, the Palliser is permeated of the Pacific. See p. 124. with good breeding and high style. • Poets Cove Resort & Spa (South The magnificent lobby looks like an Pender Island; & 888/512-7638): Edwardian gentlemen’s club, and the Poets Cove may be on a remote bay guest rooms are large and luxurious. on a rural island, but don’t let the See p. 324. 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE CANADIAN ROCKIES • Fairmont (Edmon- • Fairmont ton; & 800/441-1414): When the (Lake Louise; & 800/441-1414): Canadian Pacific bought and refur- First of all, there’s the view: Across a bished this landmark hotel, all of the tiny gem-green lake rise massive charming period details were pre- cliffs, shrouded in glacial ice. And served, and the inner workings were then there’s the hotel: Part hunting modernized and brought up to snuff. lodge, part palace, the Chateau is its The result is an elegant but still- own community, with sumptuous friendly small hotel. From the tux- boutiques, sports-rental facilities, edoed bellman to the gargoyles on the nine dining areas, and beautifully fur- walls, this is a real class act. See p. 337. nished guest rooms. See p. 377. • Rimrock Resort Hotel (Banff; • Post Hotel (Lake Louise; & 800/ & 800/661-1587): Banff is known 661-1586): Quietly gracious hospital- for its scenery and its high prices; this is ity in a dramatic Canadian Rockies set- one of the few luxury hotels whose rates ting is the hallmark of this luxurious are actually justified. New and architec- lodge. The original log-built dining turally dramatic, it steps nine stories room and bar remain from the 1940s, down a steep mountain slope. A fantas- now joined by a new hotel wing with tic marble lobby, great restaurant, and extremely comfortable and beautifully handsomely appointed bedrooms com- furnished rooms. The “F” suites are the plete the package. See p. 368. most desirable. See p. 378.

11 The Best B&Bs & Country Inns • West End Guest House (Vancouver; Combine a magical island view, a & 604/681-2889): This 1906 her- wonderfully inventive restaurant, a itage home is filled with an impressive full-service spa, plus luxury-level collection of Victorian antiques. Fresh- rooms, and you get this very hand- baked brownies accompany evening some inn. Flanked by gardens and turndown service, and the staff is thor- filled with major Northwest Native oughly professional. See p. 71. art, the Galiano Inn wears its high • Andersen House Bed & Breakfast style very comfortably. See p. 129. (Victoria; & 250/388-4565): Your • Woodstone Country Inn (Galiano hosts outfit their venerable 1891 Island; & 888/339-2022): The quin- Queen Anne home in only the latest tessential small country inn, Wood- decor, from raku sculptures to stone combines a marvelous edge-of- carved-wood African masks. Their the-forest ambience with fine folk taste is impeccable—the old place art and sculpture. The elegant but looks great. See p. 99. friendly atmosphere here is like staying • Old Farmhouse B&B (Salt Spring with friends who are great cooks and Island; & 250/537-4113): The Old who have great taste. See p. 129. Farmhouse is an 1894 farmstead with • Oceanwood Country Inn (Mayne a newly built guesthouse. The wel- Island; & 250/539-5074): Overlook- come you’ll get here is as engaging ing Navy Channel, this inn offers top- and genuine as you’ll ever receive, notch lodgings and fine dining in one and the breakfasts are works of art. of the most extravagantly scenic loca- See p. 125. tions on the west coast. Admirably, • Galiano Oceanfront Inn & Spa the inn maintains an array of prices (Galiano Island; & 877/530-3939): that range from affordable and cozy 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 15

THE BEST LODGES, WILDERNESS RETREATS & LOG-CABIN RESORTS 15 garden-view rooms to luxury-level & 877/837-8649): Equidistant to a suites that open onto hot-tub decks waterfall and Arrow Lake, this remote and hundred-mile views. See p. 132. inn in the forest has everything going • Fairburn Farm Culinary Retreat & for it: nicely decorated rooms with Guesthouse (& 250/746-4637): locally made pine furniture, a beauti- This rambling farmhouse B&B sits ful lounge with fireplace, decks to amid some of the most bountiful observe the hens and the garden (each farmland in Canada—so start cook- of which does its bit for breakfast), ing. This unusual operation is part and gracious hosts who exemplify culinary school, part country inn, Swiss hospitality. Swimming, boating, and part pilgrimage site for Slow fishing—it’s all here. See p. 297. Food–movement devotees. Come • Bank Inn (Edmonton; & 780/ here to learn more about regional 423-3600): Not quite a B&B, not foods and wines, and stay for the ter- quite a hotel, the absolutely charming roir. See p. 145. Union Bank Inn is something in • Melville Grant Inn (Gabriola Island; between. Right downtown, this mar- & 866/247-5444): This inn sits in ble-faced 1910 bank sat vacant for the middle of an island meadow, with many years before being redeveloped views onto Georgia Strait and the as an inn and restaurant. Each bed- Gulf Islands. The perfect spot for a room was individually decorated by romantic getaway, the rooms are opu- one of Edmonton’s top interior lent and indulgently comfortable, a designers. See p. 339. perfect counterpoint to the wild • Thea’s House (Banff; & 403/762- rocky bluffs, forests, and beaches just 2499): A vision of stone, pine, and outside your door. See p. 159. antique carpets, Thea’s is a newly • Otella’s, A Wine Country Inn built bed-and-breakfast just 5 min- (Kelowna; & 888/858-8596): High utes from downtown Banff. “Elegant in the hills above Kelowna, Otella’s is Alpine” is Thea’s style, a cross a discreetly elegant small B&B that between a log lodge and a vision out focuses on fine art, fine furniture, and of Architectural Digest. Perfect for a restrained good taste. Food and wine romantic getaway. See p. 369. lovers take note: Your hosts are very • Mountain Home Bed & Breakfast knowledgeable about the local wine (Banff; & 403/762-3889): All the and restaurant scene, and your break- comforts of home, plus commodious fasts here, prepared by the chef- rooms and thoughtful hospitality. owner, will be the perfect start to a There are bigger and fancier places, day seeking sun and fine wine in the but this is one of the best all-in-one Okanagan. See p. 290. B&B packages in the Rockies—and • Mulvehill Creek Wilderness Inn it’s just steps from downtown Banff. and Bed & Breakfast (Revelstoke; See p. 371.

12 The Best Lodges, Wilderness Retreats & Log-Cabin Resorts • Tigh-Na-Mara Resort Hotel (Parks- the new luxury log suites are just right ville; & 800/663-7373): Comfort- for romantic getaways. See p. 163. ably rustic log cabins in a forest at • Strathcona Park Lodge (Strathcona beach’s edge: Tigh-Na-Mara has been Provincial Park; & 250/286-3122): welcoming families for decades, and A summer camp for the whole family 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE CANADIAN ROCKIES is what you’ll find at Strathcona Park balconies overlooking the forests. Defi- Lodge, with rustic lakeside cabins and nitely worth the splurge. See p. 373. guided activities that range from sea • Tekarra Lodge (Jasper; & 888/962- kayaking and fishing to rock climbing 2522): Quaint little cabins ring a and mountaineering. See p. 194. central lodge building at this well- • Miles Inn on the T’Seax (New loved getaway. The cabins are atmos- Aiyansh, & 250/633-2636): In the pherically rustic; best of all, you’re a north, when you get to the end of the mile distant from Jasper’s busy town road and come face-to-face with the center. See p. 390. wilderness, it’s a comfort and wonder • Becker’s Chalets (Jasper; & 780/ to find this marvelous backcountry 852-3779): These very attractive new lodge. Miles Inn combines sophisti- cabins are set right along the cated lodging, First Nation artwork, . Some units are as and the friendly and knowledgeable large as houses. Jasper’s best restau- welcome of hosts ready to help you rant is here as well. See p. 389. explore the untamed woodlands • Overlander Mountain Lodge (Jasper along the Nisga’a River. See p. 240. East; & 877/866/2330): Forget the • Buffalo Mountain Lodge (Banff, wildly overpriced rooms in Jasper 1 & 800/661-1367): Rustic charm Townsite and stay here, just .5km ( ⁄4 meets upscale comfort on the Tunnel mile) outside the park gates. Lovely Mountain bluff behind Banff. Buffalo new cabins plus a handsome older Mountain Lodge is centered on a lodge with a good restaurant make this large, handsome log lodge building an in-the-know favorite. See p. 391. with an intimate fireplace-dominated • Emerald Lake Lodge (Yoho National bar and elegant dining room. The Park; & 800/663-6336): Location, woodsy, holiday-card-perfect atmos- location, location: Sumptuous lakeside phere extends to the guest rooms, with cabins at the base of the Continental fireplaces, slate-tiled bathrooms, and Divide make this a longtime favorite family-vacation spot. See p. 397.

13 The Best Restaurants for Northwest Regional Cuisine See “A Taste of British Columbia & the presentation is beautiful, and the Canadian Rockies,” in the appendix, for dishes are outstanding. See p. 103. more information on the style of cuisine • Sooke Harbour House (Sooke; unique to this region. & 250/642-3421): This small coun- • Lumière (Vancouver; & 604/739- try inn has one of the most noted 8185): From its early days, Lumière restaurants in all of Canada. Fresh has been in the running for best restau- regional cuisine is the specialty, with rant in Vancouver. You won’t be disap- an emphasis on local seafood. Views pointed by the French-influenced over the to Pacific Rim cuisine here. See p. 79. Washington’s mighty Olympic Moun- • Blue Crab Bar and Grill (Victoria; tains are spectacular. See p. 138. & 250/480-1999): You might think • Masthead Restaurant (Cowichan that the food would have a hard time Bay; & 250/748-3714): Sitting above competing with the view at this a busy marina, with islands and moun- restaurant in the Coast Hotel, but tains rising in the distance, the Mast- you’d be wrong. The creative chef head’s views are spectacular and its serves up the freshest seafood, the trappings—the century-old clapboard 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 17

THE BEST RESTAURANTS FOR NORTHWEST REGIONAL CUISINE 17 structure was built as a fine hotel— heritage home. Food this stylish and are charming. But the food here is up-to-date would pass muster any- absolutely up-to-date, an exploration where; to find it in Nelson is aston- of Vancouver Island’s rich terroir. See ishing. See p. 315. p. 146. • Belvedere (Calgary; & 403/265- • Shelter (Tofino; & 250/725-3353): 9595): The moody, noirish atmos- Fine dining in Tofino has always been phere of this elegant fine-dining synonymous with The Pointe, the room lights up when the food arrives: wonderful restaurant at the Wick- Easily one of ’s top aninnish Inn. But the tourist boom restaurants, Belvedere offers an in Tofino created an explosion of fan- inventive dining experience focused tastic new places in this remote cor- on Pan-Canadian ingredients and ner of Vancouver Island. Check out impeccable French-by-way-of-Tokyo Shelter for its youthful vigor and technique. See p. 327. absolutely fresh and authentic fla- • River Café (Calgary; & 403/261- vors—everything is right off the boat 7670): You’ll walk through a quiet, or just off the land. See p. 178. tree-filled park on an island in the • Bearfoot Bistro (Whistler; & 604/ Bow River to reach this bustling 932-3433): The food scene in place. At the restaurant’s center, an Whistler is extremely dynamic, as immense wood-fired oven and grill you’d expect at North America’s top produce smoky grilled meats and veg- ski resort and soon-to-be Olympic etables, all organically grown and host. To get noticed amid Whistler’s freshly harvested. On warm evenings, many restaurants requires something picnickers loll in the grassy shade. See special—and Bearfoot Bistro’s got it. p. 328. With very inventive food served in • Hardware Grill (Edmonton; & 780/ three- or five-course meals, this is like 423-0969): Although located in one having a cutting-edge Iron Chef in of Edmonton’s first hardware stores, charge of your dinner. See p. 221. there’s nothing antique about the • Fresco (Kelowna; & 250/868-8805): food at the Hardware Grill. A very Another exciting new restaurant at broad selection of inventive appe- the epicenter of the fast-growing tizers makes it fun to snack your way Okanagan wine district, Fresco through dinner. See p. 341 brings together fresh local ingredients • Maple Leaf Grille & Spirits (Banff; and sophisticated preparations in a & 403/760-7680): In a soaring, classy but casual dining room. The two-story dining room that’s at once chef/owner has cooked in the top rustic and classy, the Maple Leaf restaurants in Canada: He came to serves up Banff’s most sophisticated Kelowna to open his first solo effort. mountain cuisine. The menu focuses See p. 292. on regional ingredients, fresh prepa- • All Seasons Café (Nelson; & 250/ rations, and a friendly unstuffy wel- 352-0101): Innovative preparations come that lets you relax into having a and rich, hearty flavors are the hall- great time with inventive, delicious marks of the cuisine at this superla- food. See p. 373. tive restaurant in a downtown Nelson 05_778834 ch01.qxp 4/27/06 6:53 PM Page 18

18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BRITISH COLUMBIA & THE CANADIAN ROCKIES

14 The Best Festivals & Special Events • Vancouver’s Three F Festivals: The event has the feel of a weird and Folk, the Fringe, and the Film are the benevolent ritual. See p. 123. three F’s in question. The Folk Fest • World Championship Bathtub Race brings folk and world-beat music to a (Nanaimo): Imagine guiding a claw- waterfront stage in Jericho Park. The foot tub across the 58km (36-mile) setting is gorgeous, the music great, Georgia Strait from Nanaimo to Van- and the crowd something else. Far couver: That’s how this hilarious and more urban is the Fringe, a festival of goofily competitive boat race began. new and original plays that takes Nowadays, dozens of tubbers attempt place in the arty Commercial Drive the crossing as part of late July’s week- area. The plays are wonderfully long Marine Festival, with a street fair, inventive; better yet, they’re short and parade, and ritual boat burning and cheap. In October, the films of the fireworks display. See p. 153. world come to Vancouver. Serious • Calgary Stampede: In all of North film buffs buy a pass and see all 500 America, there’s nothing like the Cal- flicks (or as many as they can before gary Stampede. Of course it’s the their eyeballs fall out). See p. 58. world’s largest rodeo, but it’s also a • Celebration of Light (Vancouver): series of concerts, an art show, an This 3-night fireworks extravaganza open-air casino, a carnival, a street takes place over English Bay in Van- dance—you name it, it’s undoubtedly couver. Three of the world’s leading going on somewhere here. In July, all fireworks manufacturers are invited of Calgary is a party—and you’re to represent their countries in compe- invited. See p. 318. tition against one another, setting • Klondike Days (Edmonton): July’s their best displays to music. On the Klondike Days commemorate the fourth night, all three companies city’s key role as a departure point to launch their finales. See p. 59. the Klondike gold fields in the • Market in the Park (Salt Spring Yukon. The Sourdough River Raft Island): The little village of Ganges Race pits dozens of homemade boats fills to bursting every Saturday morn- against the strong currents of the ing, as local farmers, craftspeople, . The and flea marketers gather to talk, whole city gets decked out in its turn- trade, and mill aimlessly. With all of-the-20th-century finery for the ages of hippies, sturdy housewives, street fairs, music events, parades, fashion-conscious Eurotrash, and and general high jinks. See p. 335. rich celebrities all mixed together, the