BUYINGGUIDE OCTOBER2017 THIS MONTH 2 PORTUGAL 31 LOIRE VALLEY 41 VIN DE FRANCE 44 CORSICA 45 OTHER FRANCE 46 SICILY 49 PIEDMONT 54 LUXEMBOURG 54 GERMANY 56 GEORGIA 57 BULGARIA 58 ISRAEL 58 MOLDOVA 58 AUSTRALIA 59 NEW ZEALAND 61 ARGENTINA 68 CALIFORNIA 86 OREGON 98 COLORADO 99 TEXAS 99 VIRGINIA 102 AMERICA 103 SPIRITS 105 BEER Boats carrying wine on the Douro River, Portugal FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS BEBA73/GETTY WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE Quevedo 2014 Q Grande Reserva (Douro). Aged for 14 months in large new-wood bar- 93 rels, this wine from the Quevedo siblings is lush and generous, with swathes of ripe, rich fruit. Firm tan- nins promise further aging, while the juicy fruiti- PORTUGAL ness shines strongly. Drink from 2019. P.R. Grisley Dão and Douro reds reign supreme Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ig, bold reds are a specialty of Portu- In the Douro, many of the top still reds Quinta da Romaneira 2014 Tinto (Douro). gal. While there are great warm-hearted come from the great traditional Port produc- This rich wine is concentrated and ripe 93 offerings from the southern Alentejo, the ers, such as Quinta da Romaneira, Poças and with black fruits and juicy acidity. With its density, best examples come from the two north- Quinta da Carvalhas. The Dão, held back for fruits, wood-aging and complex texture it provides Bern regions of Douro and Dão, which specialize years by the dominance of under funded coop- a beautiful example of a Douro blend. Minerality in this still-young wine comes through strongly. Drink in the country’s star grape, Touriga Nacional. eratives, has blossomed as talented produc- from 2019. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. The two regions are situated within 50 miles ers like Casa Anadia and Casca Wines have abv: 13.5% Price: $30 of each other, yet their styles are realized the potential of this quite distinct. The Douro, also mountainous area. Quinta das Carvalhas 2014 Carvalhas Touriga Nacional (Douro). A selection of Touriga home to Port wines, produces There are not many These two wine regions 93 Nacional, this was foot-trodden in open lagars. reds that are luscious, concen- are featured strongly in this wine countries That gives a richness and smooth density to this trated and dense. The best exam- where you can buy month’s Buying Guide. Portugal stylish wine, adding to its concentration and pow- ples have a line of firm tannins continues to astonish thanks erful black fruits. It is solid with tannins that needs that allows them to age for 10–15 such impressive to the increasing quality of its to age further. Drink from 2020. Saranty Imports. years or more. The Dão, with its wines for under wines and their terrific value. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 granite soil, produces wines that $30. There are not many wine coun- are driven by minerality and tries where you can buy such Quinta do Sagrado 2011 Reserva (Douro). structure. They age equally well, impressive wines for under $30. From a great Douro vintage, this is a ripe 93 always preserving a firm and solid core. Beyond Portugal in this issue’s Buying wine, packed with generous fruit and concentrated In the 20 years that I have been following Guide, we review hundreds of Old World wines tannins. Berry flavors and juicy acidity dominate a wine that has plenty of power while keeping ele- Portugal, the best winemaking traditions, some from France, Italy, Germany and more. For New gance and stylishness. Drink now. Skurnik Wines, of which date back to the Roman era, have been World selections, you’ll find plenty of reviews Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. maintained. However, alongside these tradi- from Argentina, California and Oregon. And, abv: 13.5% Price: $23 tions have been advancements in vine growing as always, be sure to check out our complete and winemaking, which have brought Portugal database, with thousands more reviews, at Quinta do Sagrado 2009 Grande Reserva (Douro). Fermented in open stone lagars, into the modern era. buyingguide.winemag.com —Roger Voss 93 this wine has the typical opulent structure that comes from this time-honored technique. With its dark tannins and concentrated black fruits, this wine, dominated by Touriga Nacional, is ready to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. Quinta das Carvalhas 2014 Carvalhas abv: 14% Price: $29 (Douro). This is the top wine from a great DOURO 94 estate. Situated in the heart of the Douro, the vines Rui Roboredo Madeira 2014 Quinta de Fafide Casca Wines 2012 Vinha das Lameiras grow around a conical north- and east-facing hill. 12 Barrels (Douro). This wine is the result 93 (Douro). Terroir is the key in this wine from The wine was foot stomped in lagares and then aged of a selection of 12 barrels that were chosen after 95 a single parcel in the Douro. A field blend, it has in new wood. The result is a rich wine with mint, aging. It is rich, smooth and concentrated, with more than 20 varieties in the mix. It is very Douro: spice, black plum and dark damson flavors. It is powerful tannins behind the ripe texture and gener- structured, mineral and with initially austere fruit still young, ready to age. Drink from 2020. Saranty ous blackberry fruits. It needs to age further; drink that broadens out. It is ready to drink from 2019. Imports. —R.V. from 2019. MS Walker. —R.V. Laurel Importers. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $90 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Poças 2015 Poças Reserva (Douro). Pro- Rui Roboredo Madeira 2013 Castello d’Alba Poças 2014 Símbolo (Douro). This is a major duced from old vines planted in the heart- Limited Edition (Douro). This field blend has 93 93 Douro wine from the Poças family-owned land of the Douro vineyards, this wine is intense rich tannins and concentrated new-wood aging fla- 94 Port and wine producer. Dusty tannins already give and structured, with swathes of black fruits and big vors. Ripe, generous mint and black-plum fruits are it class as well as richness. Packed with black-plum tannins. The fruit has the weight to balance with powered by the dark, firm texture. It demonstrates fruits and with good concentration, the wine is still the wood aging and the structure, but it all needs great style as well as powerful fruit and tannins. maturing. It needs to age further, so drink from more time. Drink from 2019. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Drink from 2018. MS Walker. —R.V. 2019. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $37 abv: 14% Price: $150 Continued on page 15 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Managing Editor/Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Tasting Coordinators Carrie Dykes and Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jens- sen, Joe Czerwinski and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Con- tributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan Hors Categorie 2014 Syrah (Walla Walla Val- Cattleya 2015 Cuvée Number One Pinot in Washington. ley). This is a new project from Christophe Noir (Russian River Valley). From the Lake- 96 95 If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- Baron. The aromas pop, with notes of earth, plum, view Vineyard in Green Valley, this deeply concen- tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- nori, iron, sea salt, herb, olive tapenade, black pep- trated bottling shows blackberry, crushed graphite, ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. per and smoked meat. The palate is concentrated asphalt-laced gravel, dried violets and rose petals Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. and structured, with rich yet restrained bacon fat on the richly layered nose. The palate is soft and Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its and smoke flavors that bring a sense of vibrancy and approachable, yet firm enough to ensure a long suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us richness along with a near endless finish. It brings life, carrying flavors of elderberry, elderflower and by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices a fair amount of tannic heft that will benefit from a meaty richness. Drink 2018–2035. Cellar Selec- are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. some additional time in the bottle. Best from 2024- tion. —M.K. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS 2028. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. abv: 14.1% Price: $240 Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection.