BUYINGGUIDE OCTOBER2017

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2 31 41 VIN DE FRANCE 44 CORSICA 45 OTHER FRANCE 46 SICILY 49 PIEDMONT 54 LUXEMBOURG 54 GERMANY 56 GEORGIA 57 BULGARIA 58 ISRAEL 58 MOLDOVA 58 AUSTRALIA 59 NEW ZEALAND 61 ARGENTINA 68 CALIFORNIA 86 OREGON 98 COLORADO 99 TEXAS 99 VIRGINIA 102 AMERICA 103 SPIRITS 105 BEER

Boats carrying on the River, Portugal

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Quevedo 2014 Q Grande Reserva (Douro). 93 Aged for 14 months in large new-wood bar- rels, this wine from the Quevedo siblings is lush and generous, with swathes of ripe, rich fruit. Firm tan- nins promise further aging, while the juicy fruiti- PORTUGAL ness shines strongly. Drink from 2019. P.R. Grisley Dão and Douro reds reign supreme Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ig, bold reds are a specialty of Portu- In the Douro, many of the top still reds Quinta da Romaneira 2014 Tinto (Douro). gal. While there are great warm-hearted come from the great traditional Port produc- 93 This rich wine is concentrated and ripe offerings from the southern Alentejo, the ers, such as Quinta da Romaneira, Poças and with black fruits and juicy acidity. With its density, best examples come from the two north- Quinta da Carvalhas. The Dão, held back for fruits, wood-aging and complex texture it provides Bern regions of Douro and Dão, which specialize years by the dominance of under funded coop- a beautiful example of a Douro blend. Minerality in this still-young wine comes through strongly. Drink in the country’s star , Touriga Nacional. eratives, has blossomed as talented produc- from 2019. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. The two regions are situated within 50 miles ers like Casa Anadia and Casca have abv: 13.5% Price: $30 of each other, yet their styles are realized the potential of this quite distinct. The Douro, also mountainous area. Quinta das Carvalhas 2014 Carvalhas Touriga home to Port wines, produces There are not many These two wine regions 93 Nacional (Douro). A selection of Touriga Nacional, this was foot-trodden in open lagars. reds that are luscious, concen- are featured strongly in this wine countries That gives a richness and smooth density to this trated and dense. The best exam- where you can buy month’s Buying Guide. Portugal stylish wine, adding to its concentration and pow- ples have a line of firm tannins continues to astonish thanks erful black fruits. It is solid with tannins that needs that allows them to age for 10–15 such impressive to the increasing quality of its to age further. Drink from 2020. Saranty Imports. years or more. The Dão, with its wines for under wines and their terrific value. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 granite soil, produces wines that $30. There are not many wine coun- are driven by minerality and tries where you can buy such Quinta do Sagrado 2011 Reserva (Douro). structure. They age equally well, impressive wines for under $30. 93 From a great Douro , this is a ripe always preserving a firm and solid core. Beyond Portugal in this issue’s Buying wine, packed with generous fruit and concentrated In the 20 years that I have been following Guide, we review hundreds of Old World wines tannins. Berry flavors and juicy acidity dominate a wine that has plenty of power while keeping ele- Portugal, the best traditions, some from France, Italy, Germany and more. For New gance and stylishness. Drink now. Skurnik Wines, of which date back to the Roman era, have been World selections, you’ll find plenty of reviews Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. maintained. However, alongside these tradi- from Argentina, California and Oregon. And, abv: 13.5% Price: $23 tions have been advancements in vine growing as always, be sure to check out our complete and winemaking, which have brought Portugal database, with thousands more reviews, at Quinta do Sagrado 2009 Grande Reserva (Douro). Fermented in open stone lagars, into the modern era. buyingguide.winemag.com —Roger Voss 93 this wine has the typical opulent structure that comes from this time-honored technique. With its dark tannins and concentrated black fruits, this wine, dominated by Touriga Nacional, is ready to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. Quinta das Carvalhas 2014 Carvalhas abv: 14% Price: $29 DOURO 94 (Douro). This is the top wine from a great estate. Situated in the heart of the Douro, the vines Rui Roboredo Madeira 2014 Quinta de Fafide Casca Wines 2012 Vinha das Lameiras grow around a conical north- and east-facing hill. 93 12 Barrels (Douro). This wine is the result 95 (Douro). is the key in this wine from The wine was foot stomped in lagares and then aged of a selection of 12 barrels that were chosen after a single parcel in the Douro. A field blend, it has in new wood. The result is a rich wine with mint, aging. It is rich, smooth and concentrated, with more than 20 varieties in the mix. It is very Douro: spice, black plum and dark damson flavors. It is powerful tannins behind the ripe texture and gener- structured, mineral and with initially austere fruit still young, ready to age. Drink from 2020. Saranty ous blackberry fruits. It needs to age further; drink that broadens out. It is ready to drink from 2019. Imports. —R.V. from 2019. MS Walker. —R.V. Laurel Importers. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $90 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $80 Poças 2015 Poças Reserva (Douro). Pro- Rui Roboredo Madeira 2013 Castello d’Alba Poças 2014 Símbolo (Douro). This is a major 93 duced from old vines planted in the heart- 93 Limited Edition (Douro). This field blend has 94 Douro wine from the Poças family-owned land of the Douro , this wine is intense rich tannins and concentrated new-wood aging fla- Port and wine producer. Dusty tannins already give and structured, with swathes of black fruits and big vors. Ripe, generous mint and black-plum fruits are it class as well as richness. Packed with black-plum tannins. The fruit has the weight to balance with powered by the dark, firm texture. It demonstrates fruits and with good concentration, the wine is still the wood aging and the structure, but it all needs great style as well as powerful fruit and tannins. maturing. It needs to age further, so drink from more time. Drink from 2019. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Drink from 2018. MS Walker. —R.V. 2019. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $37 abv: 14% Price: $150

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Managing Editor/Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Tasting Coordinators Carrie Dykes and Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jens- sen, Joe Czerwinski and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Con- tributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan Hors Categorie 2014 (Walla Walla Val- Cattleya 2015 Cuvée Number One Pinot in Washington. 96 ley). This is a new project from Christophe 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). From the Lake­ If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- Baron. The aromas pop, with notes of earth, plum, view in Green Valley, this deeply concen- tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- nori, iron, sea salt, herb, olive tapenade, black pep- trated bottling shows blackberry, crushed graphite, ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. per and smoked meat. The palate is concentrated asphalt-laced gravel, dried violets and rose petals Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. and structured, with rich yet restrained bacon fat on the richly layered nose. The palate is soft and Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its and smoke flavors that bring a sense of vibrancy and approachable, yet firm enough to ensure a long suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us richness along with a near endless finish. It brings life, carrying flavors of elderberry, elderflower and by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices a fair amount of tannic heft that will benefit from a meaty richness. Drink 2018–2035. Cellar Selec- are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. some additional time in the bottle. Best from 2024- tion. —M.K. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS 2028. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. abv: 14.1% Price: $240 Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Eighty Four 2013 (Napa Valley). Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. Patricia Green Cellars 2015 Estate Vine- 95 Made by Elias Fernandez in partnership yard Etzel Block (Ribbon Ridge). with Doug Shafer, this red totally rocks in smoky Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 96 points) are not reviewed. Named after neighboring owner Mike Etzel toasted and a tease of char. Intense and electri- SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS (Beaux Frères), this exceptional wine is brilliantly fying, it offers rich layers of dark cherry, clove and Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- focused and rippling with muscular depth. The pal- dried herb. It’s bulky and substantial while preserv- ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price ate is etched with blackberry and black cherry fruit, ing a sense of grace, with a backbone of supportive with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible immersed in lush vanilla, coffee and caramel tones. refreshing acidity. —V.B. and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to It’s instantly gratifying, impossibly seductive and abv: 15.1% Price: $42 reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but exceptional in every way. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In abv: 14.5% Price: $60 general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be Horsepower 2014 Sur Echalas Vineyard accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. 95 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas LABELS Trisaetum 2016 Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry explode with notes of potpourri, olive, smoked Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given 96 (Ribbon Ridge). Stunningly good, meat, fire pit, orange peel, mineral, mushroom, gar- the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been this hits you with waves of fruit, acidity and spice. rigue and white pepper. The palate is lifted, bright finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information It reverberates across, down and through the pal- but intensely flavored, loaded with flower, berry, on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax ate, recalling clover, citrus zest and grapefruit, all olive and charcuterie flavors. The finish seems near 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. underlaid by bracing minerality. Editors’ Choice. endless and the sense of balance is exquisite. It’s Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at —P.G. shockingly good. —S.S. winemag.com/ratings abv: 13.2% Price: $32 abv: 13.5% Price: $120

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The Eyrie Vineyards 2015 Original Vines Cayuse 2014 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah (Walla 95 (Dundee Hills). From Draper 94 Walla Valley). The aromas of this wine leap Orfila 2014 Sequestered Pinot Noir (Santa clone vines planted in 1965, this bright gold-hued from the glass, with notes of orange peel, potpourri, 94 Maria Valley). Hearty aromas of black wine brings myriad details to its apple, jicama, smoked meat, spice, fresh herb, stem, ash and plum. cherry and mulberry meet with rustic iron, dark white peach and nut oil flavors. A whiff of smoke It’s expressive, but still wound up. The flavors are spice, crushed slate and dried sagebrush on the carries throughout, and its sheer complexity strains focused, concentrated and savory, bringing a sense expertly woven nose of this bottling by a Southern the vocabulary. Stay with it as more subtle layers of intensity and richness but also lightness. The California-based vintner. The palate balances bright unfold. Though seductive now, it should mature balance is exquisite. —S.S. acidity with upright tannins, allowing the dark-red well through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $85 fruit and mace spice flavors to shine. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $60 abv: 14.4% Price: $40

Dion 2014 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Chehalem Williams Selyem 2015 Olivet Lane Vineyard 94 Mountains). From vines planted in 1976, 95 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From the this aromatic wine shows the depth that old vines Shafer 2015 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay heart of the appellation, a sweet spot for the variety, can bring. Strawberry, cola, butter (from 14 months 94 (Carneros). Always impressive in its grasp of this wine is explosively delicious in rich red berries. in 50% new French oak), wild cherry and more power and grace, this white is memorable from start It boasts a lush, voluptuous texture that somehow come into focus, and although delicate, they last to finish, beginning with a dark golden-hay color feels graceful, balanced by juicy acidity that lifts and last on the palate. The finish is spectacular. Edi- that dazzles in the glass. A strong floral component the ripe fruit and cardamom cola flavors.Editors’ tors’ Choice. —P.G. of jasmine invites on the nose, while sparkling acid- Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $50 ity maintains a freshness amidst the integrated oak abv: 13.9% Price: $78 and delicious flavors of honeyed pear and crème brûlée. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

Michael Mondavi Family Estate 2015 Animo Williams Selyem 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 94 Heritage (Napa Valley). 95 Coast). This is a triumph of blending, a Following on a successful prior vintage, this doesn’t cuvée that over-delivers on the sum of its parts, skip a beat, gracefully exuding beguiling floral notes Tres Sabores 2014 Perspective Estate Zin- imparting a profile of raspberry strudel and juicy and a gravelly undercurrent of texture. White peach 94 fandel (Rutherford). From dry-farmed Bing cherry. With underpinnings of spicy carda- and vanilla add to a lush, seductive medium-bodied 40-year-old vines perched along the Rutherford mom, savory tones of forest and tea invite you fur- palate that’s brightly complex. —V.B. Bench, this impressive offering is sanguine and ele- ther into the glass, finishing with a tease of dark abv: 14.4% Price: $65 gantly balanced, a showcase of cranberry, raspberry chocolate. —V.B. and milk chocolate. Refined acidity contributes to abv: 14.1% Price: $55 an overall lightness, with dried herb and dust lin- gering on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $38

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Nicolas-Jay 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- 93 ley). The second release from this impres- Williams Selyem 2015 Pinot Noir (Russian Counter Punch 2014 Petite Sirah (Sierra sive new project is a touch lighter than the previ- 94 River Valley). Roses and strawberries rise 93 Foothills). This is a quietly and confidently ous vintage, but just as well built. Blending first on the nose of this well-made wine—a celebra- powerful wine with a long life ahead of it. An espe- from four different sub-AVAs, this shows a sleek tion of the appellation in its full embrace of medium- cially deep color that is opaque almost to the rim and detailed mix of fruit—strawberry, plum and bodied texture and weight. It offers elements of sets it apart, as do the lush, dense texture and con- cherry—married to just the right amount of new dried sage, black tea and cardamom around bursts of centrated flavors of mocha, blackberry, black pepper French oak (one third of the barrels). Editors’ cranberry, cherry and orange. —V.B. and beef tartare. With all that depth and layering, Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 it still comes across as balanced, even elegant. Best abv: 13% Price: $65 after 2030.Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

Williams Selyem 2015 Terra De Promissio 94 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Smoky, Gary Farrell 2014 McDonald Mountain Vine- with bursts of sage and celery root, this is a wine 93 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From Pascual Toso 2013 Alta Barrancas Vineyards that is unabashedly earthy, spicy, bold and juicy at a cool site in the Sebastopol Hills greatly influenced 93 Malbec (Mendoza). This ripe, charred, dark- its core. Light-bodied and delicate, the palate shows by the cooling fog and winds of the Petaluma Gap, as-night Malbec captures the lush essence of Argen- beautiful floral undertones. This is a complex and this wine is velvety in texture, with a gritty tannic tina at its finest. Deep aromas of licorice, blackberry, beguiling bottling that should hold well for years to backbone. Cedar, eucalyptus and savory tea comple- coffee and toast set up a full, layered palate, with come. —V.B. ment an array of juicy red fruit and blueberry, with vanilla, baking spice, black plum and blackberry fla- abv: 13.3% Price: $58 structure and balance at the wine’s core. —V.B. vors. A lusty finish with licorice, mocha and tobacco abv: 14% Price: $65 notes is generous and dandy. Drink through 2023. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Aberrant Cellars 2014 Chehalem Mountain Neyers 2016 304 Chardonnay (Sonoma 93 Vineyard Block B3 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Che- 93 County). This intriguing wine is stainless- halem Mountains). From the last remaining block steel fermented and aged in stainless and concrete Proemio 2013 I Barrel Selection (Mendoza). of a vineyard planted in 1968 by Oregon pioneer tanks. It deceives in its toasty undertones and its 93 Black-fruit aromas blend nicely into choc- Dick Erath that’s yielding less than 1.5 tons per velvety, creamy texture, allowing for an edge of olate, vanilla and savory fig scents on the nose of acre, this is loaded with rose petal and cherry blos- voluptuous body and weight. Fig, yellow apple and this Malbec, and Petit Verdot som aromas. Delicate and graceful, it offers subtle lemon peel provide flavor and depth, followed by a blend. A dense, well-structured palate holds savory raspberry, blackberry and cherry fruit. The finish is dry, focused and ultimately bright finish. Editors’ flavors of plum and baked berry fruits. A complex exceptional, long and complex, with hints of coffee Choice. —V.B. finish that revolves around mild oak and salty fruit and caramel. Give this wine your full attention and abv: 14.1% Price: $25 flavors is lasting. Drink through 2023. Testa Wines enjoy how long it lingers. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Of The World. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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Robert Renzoni 2012 Fiore di Fano (Temecula Tapiz 2012 Black Tears Malbec (Uco Valley). Adelsheim 2015 Caitlin’s Reserve Chardon- 93 Valley). This blend of , Cabernet 93 Dense, lush aromas of coffee, blackberry and 92 nay (Willamette Valley). Star fruit and citrus Sauvignon, and shows rustic turned earth give way to notes aged Gouda cheese. notes build into riper peach and tree fruit flavors. aromas of sun-dried cherry, leather, hot soil, pep- The jammy palate is packed with a mix of black- A hint of powdered sugar colors the finish, as does per and a slight gaminess. Rounded flavors of dried berry, plum and cassis flavors that blend together. a burst of buttered toast. Still integrating, this will strawberry, black plum, pepper and baking spice A compact, grapy finish shows no hard edges, gaps reward further cellaring. Drink 2019–2030. Cellar show on the palate, which is approachable now but or breaks. Drink through 2022. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. Selection. —P.G. will age for years. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.9% Price: $75

Waits-Mast 2014 Wentzel Vineyard Pinot Adelsheim 2015 Chardonnay (Willa- Sanford 2014 La Rinconada Vineyard Estate 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). This distinctive 92 mette Valley). This supple, lightly spicy 93 Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Exotic wine has a light-garnet color and intriguing rasp- 100%-Dijon-clone Chardonnay is vividly fruity, aromas of cranberry, plum, sandalwood, myrrh and berry and cranberry aromas that lead to full red- and with juicy Meyer lemon, grapefruit and crisp apple lavender makes for an elegant entry to this bottling black-cherry flavors accented by rosemary and wood flavors in abundance. Fresh and penetrating, it’s by the winemaking team of Steve Fennell and Laura smoke. Fermented by native yeast and using some built for salads, pastas or poultry dishes, boasting Roach. Layered flavors of tart cherry and pomegran- whole clusters for the astringency and flavor that impressive grip and length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ate are laced throughout by dried herbs, while the stems can add, it has a texture that’s moderately tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 tannic structure is firm but not obtrusive. Drink nic and nicely supported by acidity. —J.G. 2018–2034. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $47 abv: 14.5% Price: $70

Delgado 2014 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 92 Bright, juicy acidity perseveres around a rich, concentrated core of baked apple and pear. A Sante Arcangeli 2015 Split Rail Vineyard Williams Selyem 2015 Westside Road Neigh- strong cradling of toasted oak supports the fruit and 93 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). From a 93 bors Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Show- creamy texture, finishing in a flourish of floral apple vineyard perched 1,700 feet above the Monterey ing just a touch of reduction, this wine is bright, blossom and salty brine. —V.B. Bay, this wine by brewer-turned-vintner John crunchy and explosive on the palate. The palate abv: 14.8% Price: $30 Benedetti is both very light yet incredibly flavorful. shows a mix of raspberry, cherry and cranberry Rusty raspberry and strawberry aromas meet with that’s full of flavor. Seductively smooth, it should dill, thyme and white pepper on the nose, while the continue to evolve and expand with time, as the palate offers soft red cherry and gently sprinkled wine is just beginning to unravel its complex notes herbs throughout. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. of baking spice, vanilla and tea. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.9% Price: $72

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Elk Cove 2016 Estate Riesling (Willamette Greywacke 2014 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). 92 Valley). Most of the estate vines used for 92 Making top-flight Marlborough Pinot Noir Opolo 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso this blend date back to the mid-1970s. It empha- wasn’t easy in 2014, so this is an especially notable 92 Robles). This longtime winery recently sizes bright citrus flavors, like lemon and lime, with effort from Kevin Judd. Classic savory, forest-floor released new labels, and this bottling is one of the lemon verbena, cilantro and other fresh herb notes notes frame black-tea and plum flavors in this con- first releases to wear the slicker style. Lavish aromas that add detail to the finish. A very fine value, it centrated, richly textured wine. Drink now–2022. of blueberry, black currant and caramel lead into a can also age for a decade or longer. Editors’ Choice. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. palate full of soft chalky tannins that carry flavors of —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $39 tangy plum skin, bacon fat and crème de cassis. This abv: 13% Price: $19 will age very well, but is tasty now. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $32

Marimar Estate 2014 Bonita’s Hill Don Miguel 92 Vineyard Unfiltered Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Named for a beloved Springer Spaniel, Esk Valley 2014 Gimblett Gravels Merlot- this is pretty and bright, with an edgy line of acid- 92 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec-Cabernet Franc ity that supports a gravelly texture. Integrated oak Orfila 2014 Element 119 Pinot Noir (Arroyo (Hawke’s Bay). This shows just how good Gimblett contrasts against baked apple, honey and cinnamon 92 Grande Valley). Crushed hibiscus, rich red Gravels reds can be even at such a fair price point. flavors that are homey and comforting, finishing in cherry, sweet sagebrush and chai spice make for a Senior Winemaker Gordon Russell has fashioned a a coconut flake tone. —V.B. complex nose on this bottling. Rusty cherry rises to full-bodied, dark and dense wine that shows hints abv: 13.8% Price: $49 the fore on the soft and light palate, where a compel- of vanilla and cedar which frame dark plum and cas- ling texture and bright acidity go deep into the finish. sis fruit, then slowly fade into a long, velvety fin- —M.K. ish. Drink 2020–2030. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. abv: 14.1% Price: $40 Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $18

Oak Farm 2015 (Lodi). Wonder- 92 ful richness, depth and concentration make this full-bodied wine a standout. Rich berry and cherry flavors are densely packed within a velvety viscous texture that soothes the palate and clings to the sides of the mouth. A long finish completes the Penner-Ash 2016 Viognier (Oregon). Always picture. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. 92 a strength in the winery’s lineup, Flowers 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 15% Price: $24 this is sourced from both Columbia Valley and 92 Austere and elegant in its cool-climate, light- Rogue Valley vineyards. It’s aged entirely in stain- bodied way, this wine is dark and brooding nonethe- less steel and walks a tight rope between citrus zest less, offering a wild bramble of berry and rhubarb and honeysuckle, botanical herb and leafy green flavors. Firm in tannin and subtle in oak, it is dotted flavors. It’s all in perfect proportion, and absolutely in black-tea and savory forest-floor edges. —V.B. delicious lightly chilled. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $55 abv: 14.3% Price: $30

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Penner-Ash 2015 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir Rule of Three 2013 Malbec (Uco Valley). Williams Selyem 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 92 (Yamhill-Carlton). This light- to medium- 92 Plum and blackberry aromas dominate a 92 County). This bottling offers an expression bodied wine delivers well-integrated strawberry fruit-forward nose with palpable oak and toast. of velvety plush texture that’s persistent in stony preserve flavors, along with hazelnut, malt and milk This is rock-solid and firm on the palate. Ripe fla- minerality and an edge of graphite. Cranberry, rhu- chocolate highlights. It’s smooth and well propor- vors of baked black fruits are darkened by toast and barb and orange provide tart, tangy fruit flavors that tioned, and should drink well through 2023. —P.G. chocolate notes. On the finish, this tastes of fig and are irresistible around the complex spice core. Edi- abv: 13.7% Price: $65 peppery spice. Drink through 2023. Vines of Argen- tors’ Choice. —V.B. tina. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $39 abv: 14.2% Price: $60

Pertinace 2014 Barbaresco. This opens with 92 textbook Nebbiolo aromas of new leather, Aberrant Cellars 2015 Confero Pinot Noir (Wil- forest floor, red berry, culinary spice and a whiff of Serca 2014 Gran Corte Single Vineyard (Valle 91 lamette Valley). Consistent with the 2014 blue flower. On the savory palate, taut, fine-grained 92 de Uco). Ripe, lush berry and vanilla aromas Confero, this blends multiple clones from five dif- tannins and vibrant acidity support Marasca cherry, announce this nicely oaked blend of Malbec, Merlot ferent vineyards. Its details are sharp, framing taut raspberry compote, star anise and white pepper fla- and Cabernet Franc. The drying tannins are firm, red fruit with a vein of licorice before resolving into vors that should integrate after a few more years and vanilla, mocha and blackberry flavors finish dusty tannins. It delivers excellent length, muscle in bottle. Drink after 2022. MW Imports.Editors’ with tannic grip but also a sense of purity and lush- and definition.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Choice. —K.O. ness. Drink through 2023. 31 Seven Degrees. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $29 abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $60

Bella Luna 2013 Estate Riserva Sangiovese- Rivetto 2014 Marcarini (Barbaresco). This Willamette Valley Vineyards 2015 Vintage 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Templeton Gap District). 92 glossy and fragrant wine opens with heady 92 42 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Willa- This blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet woodland berry, menthol, botanical herb, iris, new mette Valley Vineyards’ vintner Bill Fuller planted Sauvignon is aged in oak for 40 months, which con- leather and exotic spice aromas. The palate deliv- the Draper clone vines that go into this wine at his tributes dark, woody spice to the nose, enhancing ers Marasca cherry, clove, pipe tobacco and savory Tualatin Vineyards in 1973. Buttery barrel flavors the fresh-pressed elderberry and crushed lava-rock mineral notes held taut by fine-grained tannins are immediately apparent—highlights of butter- aromas. The sip is soft at first before the tannins and vibrant acidity. Esprit du Vin. Editors’ Choice. scotch, vanilla and spice around a core of ripe apple tighten around the dark flavors, and the acidity is —K.O. fruit. It seems to gather strength throughout the powerfully fresh. Give it a tad more time for all com- abv: 14% Price: $41 sip, with a lingering finish. Drink 2019–2030. —P.G. ponents to marry. Drink 2019–2028. Cellar Selec- abv: 14.1% Price: $40 tion. —M.K. abv: 12.9% Price: $52

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2016 Herdade Duck Pond 2016 Hylo Vineyard Pinot Gris (Wil- Flowers 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 91 de São Miguel Art.Terra Amphora Tinto (Alen- 91 lamette Valley). More orange or lightly blush 91 This juicy coastal wine offers medium acidity tejano). Aged for three months on its lees in small than straw-hued, this is a fine single-vineyard wine. and a lightness on the palate. It is a well-crafted, clay amphoras, this wine has a juicy, fruity charac- It’s bone-dry, complex and sophisticated, with per- balanced effort, exuding wet stone, lemon zest, ter. The red fruits and crisp acidity are impressive sistent pear and peach skin flavors, offering more apple and white flower aromas and flavors. —V.B. and fascinating. Its texture and tannins suggest detail and less obvious fruit than most Oregon Pinot abv: 13.4% Price: $50 further aging, so drink from 2018. Quintessential Gris. —P.G. Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.1% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $22

Hahn 2015 SLH Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- 91 lands). This widely available and well-priced Elk Cove 2015 Clay Court Pinot Noir (Chehalem appellation blend shows dark aromas of black rasp- 91 Mountains). Pommard and Dijon clones berry, elderberry, wet slate and crushed gravel on planted in 2001 fuel this tasty wine. Its dusty plum the nose. The wine makes a soft entry on the pal- Chacewater 2013 Petite Sirah (Lake County). and black cherry fruit carries a touch of dark choco- ate, where mulberry meets with Earl Grey tea and a 91 This is a full-bore, concentrated and tannic late, all framed by firm yet polished tannins. Built pinch of anise. —M.K. wine that lives up to the reputation of a not exactly to age, it can be enjoyed now with a good decanting. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 “petite” varietal. It starts with smoky black pepper —P.G. aromas, then offers concentrated blackberry, dark abv: 13.5% Price: $60 chocolate and charred meat flavors, along with a rich wrapping of fine-grained tannins. Best after 2020. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $25

Elk Cove 2015 Mount Richmond Pinot Noir King Estate 2014 Bradshaw Vineyard Pinot 91 (Yamhill-Carlton). This wine’s cranberry, 91 Noir (Willamette Valley). Part of the limited raspberry and cherry flavors are spicy and tart, edition vineyard designate series, this stands apart carrying a suggestion of hard candy. It’s consistent for its elegant, aromatic style. Beet root, pomegran- Creekside Cellars 2014 Colorado’s Cabernet throught its tart finish and promises much devel- ate and chocolate suggestions come together on 91 Franc (Grand Valley). Attractive oaky aro- opment ahead. Drink now through the late 2020s. the midpalate, seemingly gaining concentration as mas of wood smoke, black licorice and cedar float Cellar Selection. —P.G. it finishes. Fresh, clean and well balanced, it spent above rich notes of black currant and blackberry, abv: 13.5% Price: $60 just the right amount of time in one-third-new with a bit of bell pepper adding nuance. Sweet spice French oak. —P.G. and smoke flavors prevail on the palate alongside abv: 13.5% Price: $55 crushed-velvet tannins, ample acidity and a core of dark fruit. The long, spicy finish is plush, with a slightly herbaceous note. —F.A. abv: 13.4% Price: $45

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Leoness 2013 Alessandro Vineyard Syrah Trefethen 2015 Chardonnay (Oak Knoll Dis- 91 (Temecula Valley). This is a fascinating wine 91 trict). This wine combines fruity tropical in that it delivers all of the components of a cool- Pascual Toso 2014 Reserva Barrancas Vine- flavors of pineapple, honey and papaya with lighter climate Syrah from what is considered a warm- 91 yards Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Aro- tones of orange and green apple. The rich palate is weather region. Black pepper, tar, charred game, mas of tar and rubber give way to rich black fruits lifted by bright acidity and a lingering crispness. cola and lavender show on the nose, while the and toasty oak. A hard, tannic palate means this —V.B. palate offers roasted lamb, more pepper and crushed needs air or meaty foods. Oaky, resiny berry and abv: 13.5% Price: $36 asphalt. It’s relatively light in body as well. Editors’ cassis flavors finish chocolaty, with intense tannins. Choice. —M.K. Drink through 2021. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $46 abv: 14% Price: $25

Marimar Estate 2015 Acero Don Miguel Vine- Saint Clair 2015 Pioneer Block 20 Dillons Point Zocker 2015 Paragon Vineyard Grüner Veltliner 91 yard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian River 91 Cash Block Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). 91 (Edna Valley). The nose on this bottling is Valley). Tightly focused acidity is the star of this Scents of crushed tomato stalk and green onion immensely intriguing and unique, with gooseberry, well-executed, estate-grown and unoaked white. make a big impression upfront, but they’re balanced grapefruit skin, wet river stone and the faintest Floral jasmine and apple blossom ride along the by stone fruit and pineapple flavors. This is rich and whiff of serrano chili. It’s as racy as it can be on the nose, while flavors of lemon peel and apple integrate ripe in the mouth, showing great power and persis- sip, as the bright, fresh and grippy texture reveals seamlessly on the rounded palate. —V.B. tence on the finish. Drink now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. flavors of underripe white peach, lime and tons of abv: 13.5% Price: $32 —J.C. wet stone. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Matchbook 2014 The Arsonist Red Blend (Cal- 91 ifornia). This blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec Sanford 2014 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. and Cabernet Sauvignon incorporates wonderful, 91 Rita Hills). This appellation blend is plummy Andis 2013 Petite Sirah (Sierra Foothills). spicy oak with a ripe and generous core of black on the nose, with additional aromas of wet camp- 90 This wine is robust in flavor, appropriately fruits to a firm texture of fine-grained tannins. It fire, elegant violets and turned earth. There is great laced with firm tannins and begs for a dry-aged has plenty of oak character, but the oak is well inte- energy on the palate, with flavors of tart pome- T‑bone to pair with. It has a deep color, moder- grated and complements the blackberry and blue- granate and snappy raspberry, as well as layers of ately spicy blackberry aromas, and a firm mouth- berry flavors deftly.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. peppercorn, dried marjoram and thyme. —M.K. feel. Blackberry and subtle blueberry flavors push abv: 14.3% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 through on the finish. Best after 2022. —J.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $25

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Elk Cove 2016 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- Marimar Estate 2015 La Masía Don Miguel 90 ley). Fragrant and nicely detailed, this 90 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Crane Family 2014 Alison’s Cuvée (Napa sends up clover and apple blossom scents. Apple- From a biodynamic vineyard planted with 30 acres 90 ­Valley). This red is made from 70% Merlot, infused flavors follow, with touches of peach and of Chardonnay, this white offers tingling acidity and with smaller additions of Malbec, Cabernet Sau- spice. —P.G. coolness alongside a rich, ripe character of papaya. vignon and Petit Verdot. Eucalyptus and bay lau- abv: 13% Price: $19 The tropical note is joined by fleshy flavors of peach rel dominate on the nose, as thick tannins resolve and pear. —V.B. softly in the glass. Peppercorn, licorice and black abv: 14.2% Price: $39 cherry combine to offer big flavor and length, mak- ing way for a powerful finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

Groth 2015 Hillview Vineyard Chardonnay 90 (Napa Valley). This vineyard is within the Oak Knoll District, a cooler section of the Napa Val- Matanzas Creek 2016 Sauvignon Blanc ley’s southern end. Tart, tangy and richly woven, 90 (Alexander Valley). This well-made wine is the wine is salty, with notes of toasted oak, apple fermented in both stainless steel and neutral French Duck Pond 2016 Hylo Vineyard of Pinot skin and oyster shell. This shows a combination of oak. Aromas of freshly cut grass and honeysuckle 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). Fermented in neu- savory spice and lush ripeness. —V.B. dominate on the nose, while flavors of fig and lemon tral oak barrels, this tasty wine is loaded with pretty abv: 14.5% Price: $30 peel come into play on the racy palate. —V.B. raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s fresh and vibrant, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 with excellent concentration and length. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Robert Mondavi 2014 Merlot (Napa Val- Ledson 2013 Malbec (Dry Creek Valley). 90 ley). This wine offers a wealth of big flavor 90 Stemmy and layered, this wine is velvety, and plush structure within a context of savory oak thick and rich in red and blue fruit. The oak is for- and firm tannin. Black olive and licorice highlight Durigutti 2013 Reserva Cabernet Franc ward, while the tannins resolve to become soft as an a nicely composed framework of plum and dark 90 (Mendoza). This Cabernet Franc is super- old leather glove through the finish. —V.B. cherry, dotted with fresh tobacco. —V.B. ripe and oaky, with earthy, stewed and woody aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 abv: 15% Price: $25 mas. In the mouth, this feels grippy, resiny and dense. As it airs out, vanilla, woodspice, prune and cassis aromas come to the fore. The chocolate- tinged finish is slightly sticky in feel, exuding a strong sense of ripeness. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

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Trinity Hill 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Hawke’s 90 Bay). This offers ripe nectarine and pine- Shannon Ridge 2015 High Elevation Collec- apple, showing ample weight for its modest alcohol 90 tion Petite Sirah (Lake County). This deeply level. Hints of snow pea and melon add nuance, colored wine has earthy and toasty aromas, ample while the plump body and succulent, citrusy finish blackberry and blueberry flavors, good concentra- beg for another sip. Drink now. Terroir Life. Editors’ McManis 2015 North Forty (Cali- tion and a soft texture. It feels smooth, with fine- Choice. —J.C. 89 fornia). Complex aromas of leather, tobacco grained tannins. —J.G. abv: 12% Price: $17 and cedar lead to similar earthy tones on the pal- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 ate, with a savory, meaty character. Medium in body, it offers a nicely tannic texture and a lingering leather-scented finish. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

Sidecar 2015 G-Force Red (Oregon). This 90 blend of 60% , 28% Cabernet Franc and 12% Pinot Noir, sourced from widely separate vineyards throughout Oregon, is a surprising suc- cess. The flavors are ripe, recalling sweet mulberry Messina Hof 2014 Paulo Limited Edition and blackberry, and the polished tannins wrap it up WindRacer 2014 Chardonnay (Russian River 89 (Texas). Aromas of licorice, cardamom and nicely. Drink up. —P.G. 90 Valley). Aged in French oak for more than cinnamon take charge on the nose, with blackberry abv: 13.3% Price: $29 a year (20% new), this is a full-bodied and layered lingering in the background. Additional notes of wine. Strong aromas of French butter and baguette dark fruit and pomegranate emerge on the palate, dominate the nose. The midpalate offers more alongside warming notes of sarsaparilla, cinnamon, brightness, revealing high-toned accents of apple leather and cigar box. The tannins are grippy, but blossom, lemon and mango wrapped in tart acidity balanced by ample acidity. The long, lingering fin- before returning to the richness of crème brûlée on ish is leathery and packed with currant flavor. Drink the close. —V.B. after 2022. —F.A. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $40

Starmont 2014 Chardonnay (Carneros). 90 With stainless steel-fermentation and time in oak, this seamless, elegant white is stony in min- eral notes and inviting in aromas of white flowers. Lurking golden-honey and crème-brûlée richness add texture and body, while the finish becomes clear and crisp. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Au Jus 2015 Chardonnay (Monterey County). Nieto Senetiner 2015 Don Nicanor Malbec 89 A ripe white-peach aroma meets with lime 89 (Luján de Cuyo). Floral berry and plum aro- candy and buttercream on the nose of this bottling. mas are direct and pure, emphasizing fruit over oak. It’s a crowd-pleasing offering, with the softness of A punchy palate follows the nose, while bright plum buttered nectarine and Gala apple as well as the and berry flavors complete the package. This cap- slight tang of pear skins, lime peels and lemon pith. tures the essence of Malbec while not going over- —M.K. board. Foley Family Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $19

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Castle Rock 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir (Rus- Uptick Vineyards 2014 Estate Chardonnay 88 sian River Valley). Velvety smooth and big- 87 (Russian River Valley). Exceptionally light, Schultz 2014 Freedom Stand Sure Vineyard boned, this wine shows crisp red fruit wrapped in this acid-driven wine is all flowers and green apple, 89 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Strawberry tart acidity and subtle oak. Bay laurel, spearmint with just the slightest reach out to honeycomb-like fruit defines this open, broad-flavored wine. The and green tea add savory complexity. —V.B. texture and weight. It’ll do well at the table in its palate is smooth in feel and carries accessible red- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 unfussy approach and crispness. —V.B. fruit flavors that offer immediate appeal. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 BEST BUYS

Messina Hof 2015 Private Reserve Double 88 Barrel Malbec (Texas High Plains). Aromas of cassis, dried cranberry and black cherry are Schultz 2012 Shepherd Steelhead Run Vine- backed by tobacco and a kick of licorice. The pal- Acrobat 2016 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This wine 89 yard Syrah (Applegate Valley). Raspberry ate is ripe in raspberry, blueberry and black cherry, 90 knocks the flavors out of the park again this and blackberry fruit, lively spice and a streak of showing whispers of leather and white pepper. The vintage, with spicy grapefruit and pine needle notes espresso come together in this tasty Syrah. It was tannins add balance, mellowing some of the ripe- leading the charge. Think more cool fruit—lime flesh fermented with native yeast and spent 23 months ness. Currant and vanilla show on the medium- and skin—than tropical flavors. Add vivid acidity, in oak. With almost five years of age already, it’s length finish. —F.A. impeccable balance and a refreshing, wet stone fin- drinking well and ready for immediate enjoyment. abv: 13.6% Price: $30 ish, and this is a must-have, everyday, goes-with- —P.G. anything white. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 abv: 13.3% Price: $14

Stemmari 2015 Cantodoro Riserva (Sicilia). Tinto Rey 2016 Rosé (Dunnigan Hills). 88 This blend of 80% Nero d’Avola and 20% 89 One of the more substantial examples of Cabernet Sauvignon is redolent of red currant, Castle Rock 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- rosé, this smooth and medium-bodied wine has a blackberry and cake spice. Its firm, savory palate 89 docino County). Vivid grapefruit and crisp copper-pink color and the heft of a light red wine. offers ripe black cherry, mocha and vanilla notes apple notes give a big personality to this medium- The plummy flavors fill the mouth nicely, and the alongside velvety tannins. Enjoy through 2021. bodied wine, while a light sweetness takes off the wine feels round and broad on the palate. Editors’ Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. acidic edge, while oaky and earthy accents linger on Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 the finish. It’s a terrific value and not hard find. Best abv: 14.2% Price: $16 Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Duck Pond 2016 Pinot Gris (Willamette McManis 2015 Petite Sirah (California). This 89 Valley). Light tawny in color, this palate- 88 is a powerful, dark and seriously structured pleasing effort boasts stone fruit, orange blossom wine, from the earthy, smoky charred-wood aro- Stemmari 2015 Estate Grown Sustainably and fresh herb flavors. It’s elegant and food-friendly mas to the cedar, cardamom and blackberry flavors 87 Farmed Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). Made entirely in style, with the sort of detail that usually comes that are supported by firm tannins. It’s an excellent from Nero d’Avola, this opens with mature plum, with a higher price tag. Best Buy. —P.G. value, like virtually all of McManis’s wines. Best blackberry and cooking spice aromas. It’s juicy and abv: 13.9% Price: $14 Buy. —J.G. easygoing on the palate, with fleshy black cherry, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 raspberry and ground pepper hints accompanied by round, smooth tannins. Drink soon. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $10

Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2016 São 88 Miguel do Sul (Alentejano). The cork label Nieto Senetiner 2016 Bonarda (Luján de of this rich, smooth wine is a reminder that Alen- 88 Cuyo). Jammy plum and berry aromas are McManis 2016 Viognier (River Junction). tejo’s vines are interspersed with the trees that tempered by notes of red fruits and currant. This is 86 Good ripe-pear and apple notes and touches provide much of the world’s cork. The wine has a vibrant on the palate, with saucy red-plum and cur- of vanilla and almond lend a lot of flavor to this full- rich southern character, soft tannins and plenty of rant flavors that aren’t overextended. Tomato and bodied wine. The texture is pleasantly soft, so it’s blackberry fruits. It is ready to drink. Quintessen- dry spice flavors mark the crisp finish. Foley Family easy to drink, and the price is hard to beat. —J.G. tial Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Patriarche Père et Fils 2015 Pinot Noir (Vin de Maison de la Villette 2015 Grenache-Syrah- 87 France). The Burgundy-based producer has Zolo 2017 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown 88 Mourvèdre (Vin de France). There’s a warm made a fresh, cherry-flavored wine that is identifi- 85 and Bottled Torrontés (Mendoza). Tropical character to this wine, with ripe black-plum and ably Pinot Noir. It has soft tannins and a dry core, aromas of lychee and honeydew set up a straight- blackberry fruit. It has a spiciness that enhances yet is dominated by red fruit and acidity on the fin- forward palate. Powdery flavors of green melon and the acidity. Drink now. Monsieur Touton Selection ish. Drink now. Barton & Guestier USA. Best Buy. lychee are light and flowery on a modest finish. Vino Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. —R.V. Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $10

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 SPIRITS Magnum Vinhos 2013 Baton Casal de Loivos Quevedo 2014 Claudia’s Reserve (Douro). This 92 (Douro). This wine comes from vineyards 91 is a dense, mineral and structured wine. Pro- high on the hill above Pinhão, in the heart of the duced by the sister-and-brother team of Claudia Douro vineyards. With solid tannins and dark fruits, and Oscar Quevedo, it is firm, with layers of black it is still developing. Powerful and ripe, it shows its fruits, acidity and a solid tannic core. The wood- wood aging in the spice and toast flavors. It needs aged wine is made for aging and will be better from to wait a little, so drink from 2018. Wine Bridge 2019. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $32 Quinta das Carvalhas 2014 Touriga Nacional Quinta da Romaneira 2013 Tinto (Douro). 91 (Douro). This is the estate wine from this 92 Aged for 14 months in wood, this wine is flagship estate of Real Companhia Velha. It is ripe smoothly structured and offers considerable dark and juicy, full of open, generous black fruits and bal- fruits and rich tannins. It has power and concentra- anced acidity. The structure gives it a firm character tion from the texture and the fruit. It is an agewor- that will allow it to age. Drink this wine from 2019. thy wine from a great estate. Drink from 2018. Grape Saranty Imports. —R.V. Frísco Brandy (USA; North Channel Spir- Expectations (CA). —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 92 its, San Francisco, CA). This pisco-inspired abv: 13.5% Price: $30 immature brandy is made from California grapes. Real Companhia Velha 2015 Evel Reserva It’s clear in the glass, with a sweet, distinctly fruity Quinta das Carvalhas 2015 Reserva (Douro). 91 (Douro). This wine is rich and firmly struc- scent. The palate echoes that sweetness, warming all 92 This is the estate wine from this flagship tured. Ripe black fruits are integrated into a gen- the way down and finishing with an echo of tropical estate of Real Companhia Velha. It is ripe and juicy, erous texture full acidity and with a great base of fruit. Mix into cocktails and you just might fool your full of open, generous black fruits and balanced tannins. It still needs to age. Drink from 2019. favorite pisco-lover. Best Buy. acidity. The structure of the wine gives it a firm Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. abv: 45% Price: $35 character that will allow it to age. Drink from 2019. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Magnum Vinhos 2014 Tom de Baton (Douro). 90 Produced from old vines, this generous wine Rui Roboredo Madeira 2014 Castello d’Alba is ripe with black fruits, with a juicy, dense texture 92 Vinhas Velhas (Douro). A field blend domi- as well as ripe tannins. The structure is comfortably nated by old-vine Touriga Nacional, this is a richly cushioned within the rich fruitiness, giving way to a endowed wood-aged wine. It is dark and concen- crisp, lingering aftertaste. Drink now. Wine Bridge trated, packed with juicy black fruits and acidity. Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. The tannins support the ripe fruitiness. Drink this abv: 13.5% Price: $16 generous wine from 2018. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24 Quinta de Porrais 2014 Tinto (Douro). This 90 wood-aged wine is rich and firmly struc- Secret Spot Wines 2014 Vale da Poupa tured. Big tannins power through the black fruits 92 Reserva Field Blend (Douro). Aged in wood and crisper mineral texture and acidity. It needs to for up to 14 months, this wine is rich and smooth. age another year, so drink from 2019. Multiple U.S. Produced from low-yielding old vines, it’s a field importers. —R.V. blend of many different varieties. It is ripe with abv: 14% Price: $30 layers of black currant and spice flavors along with Velvet Night Brandy (USA; In Distill of the acidity. The wine has weight but remains stylish. Rui Roboredo Madeira 2014 Quinta do Côa 87 Night Spirits, Inc, Fresno, CA). A small-batch Drink from 2018. Vintage Wine Marketing. —R.V. 90 (Douro). Produced from organic grapes brandy made from grapes, the pro- abv: 14% Price: $19 grown in the dry Côa valley, this is a pure, fruited ducer says that each batch is different; this one is wine with a black-plum-skin texture and firm tan- made with Chardonnay grapes, aged for at least two Casca Wines 2012 Monte Cascas Grande nins. With its layers of acidity, it is crisp at the end years in American and European oak barrels and 91 Reserva Old Vines (Douro). Mature and with while remaining solidly textured. The wine needs to bottled at cask strength. The end result is pleasing swathes of ripe fruit, this is a concentrated wine. age further, drink from 2018. MS Walker. —R.V. vanilla sweetness on the nose that suggests cookie Tannins give a firm core to the velvet-textured abv: 14% Price: $20 dough. The palate opens with a flicker of orange peel, blackberry fruits. Richness and a sense of power are drying to an astringent midpalate, and finishes quite aided by the spice, pepper and dry aftertaste. Drink Wines & Winemakers 2014 Aguia Moura em fiery, with clove, vanilla and black pepper. from 2018. Laurel Importers. —R.V. 90 Vinhas Velhas Reserva (Douro). With minty abv: 48.1% Price: $55 abv: 14% Price: $39 wood flavors, this wine is smooth and polished. It offers berry fruits from the blend of 10 varieties in Manuel Carvalho Martins 2015 Golpe (Douro). this old-vine vineyard. With spice and some firm 91 Full of dark tannins, this has bold black fruits, tannins in the background, it is ready to drink. Best with acidity to balance. The wine is impressive with Brands Incorporated. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. its weight, concentration, dense texture and spicy abv: 14% Price: $18 aftertaste. Drink this wine from 2019. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. Delaforce 2014 Touriga Nacional (Douro). abv: 13.5% Price: $19 89 This is a bold, structured wood-aged wine. It brings out the best in Portugal’s flagship grape, with blackberry fruits, a perfumed character and

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balanced acidity. Although it is already three years Quinta do Portal 2014 Mural Reserva aging is already well integrated into this bold, ripe old, this wine could still age to soften its solid 88 (Douro). Vineyards north of the Douro wine. Drink now. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. tannins, and will be better from 2018. Signature River deliver an attractive, fruity wine with bright abv: 14% Price: $15 Imports. —R.V. red fruits and a generous core of tannins. The light abv: 14% Price: $20 wood-aging character has smoothed and filled out Messias 2014 Selection (Douro). The tan- the fruitiness of the wine. Drink now. M Imports, 86 nins and the fruit are well balanced in this Quanta Terra 2013 Grande Reserva Tinto LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. open, fruity wine. A blend from several vineyards, 89 (Douro). Aged for 18 months in oak, this abv: 13% Price: $13 it has a dusty texture, ripe red fruits and acidity. richly structured wine is powerful and concen- The wine is ready to drink. LGL Imports LLC. Best trated. Bitter chocolate vies with ripe, juicy berry Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Buy. —R.V. fruits to give a wine that is both firm and extracted, 88 2015 Unoaked (Douro). All the ripe fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $9 but also generous. The wine is ready to drink. Aidil potential of a Douro red is displayed in this unoaked Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. wine. Intense blackberry flavors are laced with fruit Quevedo 2015 Oscar’s Red (Douro). Ripe and abv: 13.5% Price: $30 tannins and plenty of acidity. The young wine has 86 spicy, this is an obviously wood-aged wine. a mineral edge that gives the aftertaste a fine bite. Spice and toastiness still dominate, although in a Quinta do Sagrado 2010 Reserva (Douro). Drink now. VOS Selections. —R.V. few months the potential of the juicy black fruits 89 This mint and red-berry-flavored wine is abv: 14% Price: $22 should become apparent. Wait to drink this wine still firm with tannins. The juicy black-currant until 2018. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. character is lifted by acidity, but the dry core is Real Companhia Velha 2014 Porca de Murça abv: 13% Price: $14 persistent and likely to remain. Drink now. Skurnik 88 Reserva Tinto (Douro). This ripe wine, full of Wines, Inc. —R.V. black fruits, is juicy, rich and ready to drink. Packed Rui Roboredo Madeira 2014 Vinha da Urze abv: 13.5% Price: $23 with fruit and acidity, it is balanced and smooth. It 86 Tinto (Douro). This wood-aged wine is spicy takes its name from the small town of Murça to the and toasty. It comes from a small property 1,000 Caves Velhas 2015 Magna Carta Reserva north of the main Douro region. Metrowine Distri- feet above the Douro. Although it offers blackberry 88 (Douro). A firmly tannic wine with a pow- bution. —R.V. flavors and acidity, these are dominated by the erful structure, this is rich and well concentrated, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 wood. Let the wine soften a few months more and with a solid character that supports the generous drink from 2018. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. black fruits. Juicy and with good acidity at the end, Rui Roboredo Madeira 2015 Castello d’Alba Best Buy. —R.V. the wine will be ready to drink from 2018. Winesell- 88 Reserva (Douro). This firmly tannic wine is abv: 13.5% Price: $11 ers, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. a selection made for aging. It has structure and a dry abv: 13% Price: $11 core. Set against this are the blackberry fruits, the Caves Velhas 2015 Encostas do Douro acidity and the juicy aftertaste. It will be ready from 85 (Douro). This wine is rich and spicy, with Magnum Vinhos 2014 Vinha do Reino 2018. MS Walker. —R.V. red fruits and soft tannins. Made to drink young, 88 Reserva (Douro). Celebrating the creation abv: 13.5% Price: $16 it is full of fruitiness with a layer of acidity. Drink of the Douro demarcated region in 1756 by the King now. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. of Portugal, this wine comes from vineyards at the Caves Transmontanas 2013 Vertice Grande abv: 13% Price: $9 heart of the historic region. It is structured and 87 Reserva (Douro). This densely tannic wine dark, dense with both tannins and black fruits. At is bold and linear, with concentrated chocolate Enoport 2014 Topázio Reserva (Douro). three years old, it is still young, so wait until 2018. and spice flavors. Rich black fruits are layered with 85 There are firm and dusty tannins in this Wine Bridge Imports. —R.V. acidity and a tight, mineral texture. Still firm, the spicy wine. It has firm fruit, a solid texture and a abv: 13% Price: $14 wine is not likely to soften more, so drink now. Wine juicy, nutmeg-flavored aftertaste. Drink from 2018 In-Motion. —R.V. when some of the tannins have softened. Winesell- Messias 2014 Quinta do Cachão Reserva abv: 14.5% Price: $26 ers, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 (Douro). This spicy, wood-aged wine is full abv: 13% Price: $10 of both tannins and fruit. It is dense and still young, Delaforce 2015 Red Blend (Douro). This bringing together juicy blackberry and a solid 87 wine is all fruit. Its black-currant flavors Vinihold 2015 Cais da Ribeira (Douro). structure. It will be ready to drink from 2018. LGL and attractive acidity come from a blend that is 84 Named after the quay in the heart of Oporto, Imports LLC. —R.V. dominated by Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta this light, simple wine is full of black fruit, balanced abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Barroca. It has minerality and a dry edge, although tannins and acidity. It will be a good barbecue wine. its fruitiness means it is ready to drink. Signature Drink now. Prestige Beverage Group. —R.V. Poças 2015 Coroa d’Ouro (Douro). This Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 88 lightly wood-aged wine is ripe in red-berry abv: 13% Price: $10 flavors. It is well structured, its tannins integrated Adega Cooperativa de Vila Real 2015 Pre- into a broad, soft texture. Acidity and fruitiness Messias 2014 Quinta do Cachão (Douro). A 82 mium Tinto (Douro). A smoky character lies dominate the finish. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 87 single-vineyard wine from property owned over the firmly structured fruit and black-plum- abv: 13% Price: $18 by the Messias family, this is structured and packed skin texture of this extracted wine. —R.V. full of tannins. A chocolate and spice character abv: 14% Price: $NA Quinta da Romaneira 2013 Sino da Roma- partners with the red fruits and acidity. It is ready 88 neira (Douro). This is the second wine from to drink. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2015 Meia Lua (Douro). this showpiece quinta. The wine is a classic Douro abv: 13% Price: $10 82 This is a spicy, heavily toasty wine. Strong blend dominated by Touriga Franca, giving a rich, wood flavors mask the ripe berry fruits. It is a wine soft and juicy character that is ready to drink. It Quinta de Porrais 2015 Porrais (Douro). The to be drunk young, but the wood is too much. Iberia has great fruit, spice and integrated tannins. Grape 87 quinta for this wine is on the plateau north Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. Expectations (CA). —R.V. of the Douro river. It has produced a red-, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $19 rich with soft tannins and juicy fruitiness. The wood

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Magnum Vinhos 2015 Ribeiro Santo (Dão). Quinta da Romaneira 2014 Syrah (Duriense). DÃO 89 The perfumes of Touriga Nacional domi- 90 This comes from one of the rare parcels of nate this soft, smooth wine. A layer of tannins gives Syrah in the Douro Valley where the grape thrives. It Casa Anadia 2013 Palácio Anadia Reserva structure, and the ripeness of the fruit creates a is rich but packed with minerality from the Douro’s 94 Touriga Nacional (Dão). Portugal’s native delicious, full-bodied wine. Wine Bridge Imports. schist soil. It is also stylish, keeping its exuberant Touriga Nacional originally comes from the Dão Best Buy. —R.V. fruit in check by the balanced acidity and tannins. and this wine shows it in its glory. Planted around abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Drink from 2018. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. an ornate 16th-century palace, the vines have pro- abv: 90% Price: $30 duced a richly structured wine, still showing some Magnum Vinhos 2015 Pinha Ribeiro Santo signs of wood aging. It is concentrated, with ripe 88 (Dão). Named after the pine-tree aromas Quinta da Romaneira 2013 R de Romaneira red-cherry and blackberry fruits, solid tannins and that come from the trees around the Dão vineyards, 90 (Duriense). The Syrah in this blend gives an acidity. Drink this wine from 2020. Irokos Group. this wine is perfumed with structured black-cur- extra perfume and spice to this rich wine. Its tan- —R.V. rant fruits and wild-berry flavors. Its tannins and nins and firm structure are balanced by the black abv: 14% Price: $50 balanced concentration are just right. Drink from fruits, acidity and Douro minerality. This wine is 2018. Iberian Wine Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. ready to drink. Grape Expectations (CA). Best Buy. Casca Wines 2011 Vinha da Carpanha (Dão). abv: 13.5% Price: $13 —R.V. 93 This single-vineyard blend includes Jaen’s abv: 13.5% Price: $15 fruitiness and Touriga Nacional’s strength. That Global Wines 2015 Cabriz Colheita Seleccio- makes for a smooth, juicy wine, richly endowed 87 nada (Dão). This ripe and textured wine has Quinta da Romaneira 2014 Touriga Franca- with the spice of wood aging but more generously tannins as well as bold red fruits. The wood aging 88 Syrah (Duriense). This is one in a series of with the red fruits of the Jaen grape. Dusty tannins shows in the spice and vanilla flavors that give the wines that blends Syrah with a major Douro grape, show behind all this delicious fruit. Drink this con- wine its firm richness. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old The wine has a severe, austere character, as much centrated wine now. Laurel Importers. —R.V. World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. structure as fruit. Wood aging has helped to soften abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 13% Price: $9 the wine and give density. It needs more time, so drink from 2019. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. Casa Anadia 2014 Reserva (Dão). Dating Global Wines 2015 Grilos (Dão). Named after abv: 13% Price: $30 92 back to the 16th century, this estate pro- 87 the crickets whose sound is heard in the Dão duces some classic Dão wines. With its rich tannins region in summer, this soft wine has a ripe texture and minerality and with the influence of Touriga and generous black fruits. Its acidity is balanced to BEIRA INTERIOR Nacional in this field blend, this wine is structured, give the wine weight. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. still firm with tannins. Luscious fruits are held in Best Buy. —R.V. Rui Roboredo Madeira 2014 Vinhas Velhas check by the tannins. Let it soften more and drink abv: 13% Price: $7 94 (Beira Interior). Old vines of Tinta Roriz and from 2019. Irokos Group. —R.V. Touriga Nacional have produced an immensely con- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Global Wines 2013 Cabriz Biologico Organic centrated wine. It is dark, with some tough tannins 87 (Dão). This wine is produced from organi- that still need to soften. The richness offers gener- Magnum Vinhos 2014 Ribeiro Santo Reserva cally grown grapes. It is aged in tank, giving a wine ous black fruits although with plenty of acidity to 91 (Dão). This ripe, perfumed wine is an opu- that is all blackberry fruit with a crisp texture as balance. This wine will be ready to drink from 2019. lent blend of Touriga Nacional with smaller pro- well as generous tannins. With touches of Dão min- MS Walker. —R.V. portions of Tinta Roriz and Alfrocheiro. It is juicy, erality, the wine is ready to drink. Best Beverage abv: 15% Price: $49 ripe, concentrated and dense, with abundant black Corporation. Best Buy. —R.V. fruits. This harmonious wine could age a little lon- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Rui Roboredo Madeira 2015 Beyra Reserva ger and will be at its best from 2018. Wine Bridge 91 (Beira Interior). This rich blend of Tinta Roriz Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. and Touriga Nacional comes from high-altitude abv: 13.5% Price: $19 DURIENSE vineyards in Portugal’s eastern mountains. With its structure and solid texture, it has both power and a Casa Anadia 2014 Colheita (Dão). A blend Quinta da Romaneira 2014 Touriga Nacional sense of style and balance. It is drinkable although 90 that includes Touriga Nacional and Alfro- 92 (Duriense). Floral fruit gives this power- its fruit is young and will repay aging. Drink from cheiro, this is a well-structured wine. Tannins and ful wine a great lift, bringing out the tannins, the 2018. MS Walker. —R.V. black fruits are seamlessly integrated to give weight black fruits and acidity. Its structure is still young abv: 14.5% Price: $16 and richness. The acidity, the mineral texture and and packed with dark tannins, suggesting that this the density all contribute to a wine that will be complex, rich wine needs further aging. Drink from Rui Roboredo Madeira 2015 Beyra Colheita ready to drink from 2018. Irokos Group. Best Buy. 2019. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. 87 (Beira Interior). This simple, open and fruity —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 wine has gentle tannins. It is all about ripe berries abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and acidity. Made to be drunk young for its fruiti- Quinta da Romaneira 2014 Touriga Nacional- ness, it is ready now. MS Walker. Best Buy. —R.V. Global Wines 2015 Grilos Reserva (Dão). 91 Syrah (Duriense). When two naturally per- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 89 With six months in wood, this wine shows a fumed grapes get together they make an intense strongly spicy character that gives a toast taste. The wine that has big aromas as well as a series of firm fruit is still developing, although it shows prom- tannins and ripe fruit. Blackberry and spice are BAIRRADA ise with its rich tannins and black-currant flavors. shot through with acidity to give a solid wine, firmly Wait until 2018 before drinking to let it live up to structured and fruity at the end. Grape Expecta- Casca Wines 2012 Monte Cascas Vinha das its potential. Aidil Wines/Old World Import.Best tions (CA). —R.V. 94 Cardosas (Bairrada). This is a mature, Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 single-vineyard wine. Beautifully perfumed, it abv: 13.5% Price: $10 includes, unusually, a small percentage of white grapes (historically a field blend) that soften the

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BUYINGGUIDE

tannins of the 90% Baga. The wine is spicy, con- the acidity and the light wood aging. A wine to savor, The wine is ready to drink. Multiple U.S. import- centrated, dense with black fruits and tannins. It is it will be ready to drink from 2018. DHI Selections. ers. —R.V. ready to drink. Laurel Importers. —R.V. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $70 abv: 13% Price: $24 Casa Santos Lima 2016 Bonavita (Lisboa). Campolargo 2015 Rol Coisas Antigas (Bair- Herdade do Rocim 2013 Vale da Mata Reserva 86 This wine has a lively, open and fruity side 92 rada). This is a balanced blend of seven 92 (Lisboa). From a small Lisboa vineyard that promises plenty of good barbecues. Red fruits grapes, headed by Bairrada’s own Baga. It is this owned by Rocim’s Catarina Vieira, this wine is a and acidity lie easily together. Drink now. Multiple grape that gives the tannins and tight acidity that rich blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. It U.S. importers. —R.V. dominate this structured wine. Its potential is con- offers concentrated tannins and solid texture. At abv: 14% Price: $10 siderable, with its texture still evolving. The black- the same time, the black-currant fruit adds a great currant fruits at the end are crisp and will soften lift of juiciness and acidity. Drink the wine now. Casa Santos Lima 2015 Hat Trick (Lisboa). with age. Drink from 2019. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. 86 Smooth and soft, this easygoing wine has abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $35 spice, touches of wood from the barrel aging and a firm tannic core. It is balanced and ready to drink. Global Wines 2014 Q do E Encontro Preto Herdade do Rocim 2012 Vale da Mata (Lis- Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. 92 Branco Reserva (Bairrada). A bold wine, this 92 boa). From the Vieira family’s Lisboa vine- abv: 14% Price: $18 is full of ripe tannins and black-plum fruits. The yard, this blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and local Baga grape dominates the blend, giving its spe- Syrah is well balanced, offering elegant black fruits DFJ Vinhos 2014 Pedras do Monte (Lisboa). cial style of firm tannins that are integrated into the and delicious acidity. The structure is restrained 86 A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tinta rich fruits. The wine will be best from 2018. Best and finely wrought. Drink the wine now. Langdon Roriz, this wine has a good sense of structure, with Beverage Corporation. —R.V. Shiverick. —R.V. vibrant acidity and black-currant fruits. Touches of abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 oak give a spicy edge to this juicy, fruity wine. Drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Casca Wines 2015 Cabo da Roca Reserva (Bair- Casa Santos Lima 2015 Quinta do Espírito abv: 13% Price: $10 91 rada). Aged in barrel for 12 months, this is a 90 Santo (Lisboa). This is a ripe, impressively rich wine. Supple tannins are integrated with the rich wine. With dense tannins, spice and layers of DFJ Vinhos 2014 Vega (Lisboa). This is a spice, toast and the black-currant fruit that are typ- black fruits it is concentrated, wearing its high alco- 86 ripe wine with soft tannins and juicy black ical of the Baga grape. It is developing well, with its hol easily. It comes from one of the home estates of fruits. It has a good balance between the fruit and ripe fruits and crisp acidity at the end. Drink from Casa Santos Lima in the heart of the Lisboa region. the structure, making it a wine for early, easy, 2018. Laurel Importers. —R.V. Drink this wine from 2018. Multiple U.S. import- beside-the-barbecue drinking. Dionysos Imports abv: 13% Price: $20 ers. —R.V. Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $10 Messias 2013 Quinta do Valdoeiro Reserva Col- 91 heita (Bairrada). This Messias family vine- DFJ Vinhos 2014 Grand’Arte Alicante Bous- DFJ Vinhos 2015 Paxis (Lisboa). This pro- yard is close to their main winery in Bairrada. The 90 chet (Lisboa). While is 85 ducer is the only grower of Caladoc grapes wine, with its proportion of Baga, is full of acidity probably more at home in the Alentejo, this wine in Portugal, and one of the few in the world. Blended as well as tannins and black-currant fruits. It offers from the coastal Lisboa region still has much of the here with Tinta Roriz, the grape gives a ripe, soft a touch of saltiness as well as spice. The wine is dark color, solid, dry tannins and intensely juicy and perfumed wine. It has a generous character, just approaching maturity so drink from 2018. LGL wild-berry fruits. It is ready to drink. Dionysos all fruit and balanced acidity. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports LLC. —R.V. Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $10

Campolargo 2013 Os Corvos (Bairrada). This Casa Santos Lima 2015 Bons Ventos Reserva DFJ Vinhos 2015 Casa do Lago (Lisboa). Ripe 88 is a ripe, juicy and accessible wine. Full of 88 (Lisboa). From the good winds (Bons Ven- 84 red fruits dominate this soft and juicy wine. blackberries, soft tannins and with balanced acid- tos) estate, this balanced wine has good acidity as The light structure and touch of tannin give shape ity, the wine is more about fruit than structure. It is well as black-currant fruit. Tannins give the wine to this easy wine. Drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. ready to drink. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. its dry core and structure. Nine months in wood —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19 have added spice and the smooth texture. Drink abv: 12.5% Price: $10 from 2018. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. Campolargo 2015 Entre II Santos Tinto (Bair- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 DFJ Vinhos 2014 Alta Corte (Lisboa). With 87 rada). This blend is almost pure Baga, giving 84 some tannins and structure, this is still acidity as well as open blackberry fruit. The wine is Casa Santos Lima 2015 Passion of Portugal a juicy, red-berry-flavored wine. Acidity and the spicy, juicy with a light texture that makes it ready 88 Reserva (Lisboa). This is a good example lightly dry core give shape to the bright, ripe fruiti- to drink now. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. of a red , showcasing soft, gener- ness. Drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 ous tannins and juicy red and blackberry fruits. It is abv: 12.5% Price: $10 ripe, full of fruit and rounded with a firm, dry after- taste. Drink now. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. LISBOA abv: 13% Price: $20 TEJO

DFJ Vinhos 2015 Francos Reserva (Lisboa). Quinta do Conde 2015 Pernalta Reserva Quinta da Zaralhôa 2011 Tejo. Fermented 92 This is a flagship wine for DFJ owner and 88 (Lisboa). Wood aging has given this wine a 94 in open stone lagars, this well-structured winemaker José Neiva Correia. It is generous while decidedly spicy character. The balance comes from wine is rich and concentrated. Beautifully ripe with preserving great style and elegance. The black berry the ripe berry fruit, acidity and general brightness. fruits and layers of tannins are well balanced with

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 its plum fruits and warm acidity, it’s ready to drink. Fiuza 2015 Premium Alicante Bouschet (Tejo). in flavors and richness. Drink now. Wine Enter- Bliss Wine Imports. —R.V. 91 Rich, dense and full of black fruits, this wine prises LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 conveys a dusty tannic character as well as mint, abv: 15% Price: $14 spice and blackberry fruitiness. Eight months of Fiuza 2015 Ikon Touriga Nacional (Tejo). This wood aging softened the structure and deepened the Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2015 Coudel 93 oak-aged Touriga Nacional is rich and opu- density of the wine. It is ready to drink. Votto Vines 88 Mor Reserva (Tejo). This classic Portuguese lent. It offers fine tannins, flavors of dark chocolate Importing. —R.V. blend from five grapes is rich and opulent. Although and spice as well as black plum and berry fruit. It’s abv: 14% Price: $35 the firm tannins need time to soften, the rounded, dark and firm at this stage with tannins and dense powerful black fruits are all there along with bal- fruit. Drink from 2020. Votto Vines Importing. Quinta da Ribeirinha 2013 Vale de Lobos anced acidity. Drink from 2019. Wine Enterprises —R.V. 91 Touriga Nacional (Tejo). This perfumed and LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $55 solid wine offers some fine tannins. The black abv: 15% Price: $14 fruits and rich structure give a juicy concentration. Wines & Winemakers 2014 Tyto Alba Vinhas Named after the wolves who traditionally lived in Casa Cadaval 2013 Vinha Padre Pedro 93 Protegidas (Tejo). This richly structured the valley where the quinta is situated, this wine is 88 Reserva (Tejo). This wine, named after a wine comes from the the state-owned Companhia ripe and ready to drink. JK Imports. —R.V. family ancestor, is rich and ripe, with juicy black das Lezirias, the largest estate in Portugal. With abv: 13.5% Price: $30 fruits and integrated tannins. It’s firm while also equestrian events, wine, olive oil and an ecological fruity, finishing with acidity. It is ready to drink. sanctuary just east of Lisbon, the property merits Fiuza 2016 Babu Reserva (Tejo). This firm VOS Selections. —R.V. a visit. Named for the barn owl that nests in estate 90 and generous blend of Touriga Nacional abv: 14% Price: $18 forests, the wine is opulent, dense and packed with and Alicante Bouschet is powerful, with great black tannins and ripe black fruits. Give it time, at least fruits and layers of firm tannins. Its structure and Fiuza 2014 Alon Seasons Collection Sun Pre- until late 2018. Amara Wines & Spirits. —R.V. concentration are made for aging. Drink this wine 88 mium Alicante Bouschet (Tejo). Bold, rich abv: 14% Price: $30 from 2020. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. fruits are laced with wood notes and spiced with abv: 13.5% Price: $25 dark chocolate. The wine, with its strong toast and Quinta da Alorna 2013 Marquesa da Alorna dark-plum flavors, is rich, concentrated and has a 92 Grande Reserva (Tejo). Named after the Quinta da Alorna 2013 Reserva Touriga ripe aftertaste. Drink this dense wine from 2018. fourth Marquesa who was a noted poet, this dense 90 Nacional-Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). This Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. and concentrated wine is all about power and is a rich wine, structured and showing great black abv: 14% Price: $15 intensity. It has dark tannins, bold black fruits and fruits. A solid base of tannins supports the layers of super-rich wood-aged flavors. It is made to age fur- ripe fruit, acidity and warm spice. The wine, with its Quinta da Lapa 2014 Nana Reserva (Tejo). ther, and will be better from 2019. American B.D. juicy finish, is ready to drink. American B.D. —R.V. 88 This ripe, spicy wine offers strong wood Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 flavors as well as bold red fruits, accompanied by abv: 14% Price: $26 acidity and rich tannins. Drink now. D’Ouro Vino Casa Cadaval 2013 Trincadeira Preta (Tejo). Selections. —R.V. Quinta da Lapa 2014 Santa Teresa d’Avila 89 Produced from a parcel of 60-year-old bush abv: 14% Price: $17 92 Homenagem (Tejo). Created to celebrate vines on the Cadaval estate, this wine is structured, the 500th anniversary of the birth of Saint Theresa intense and concentrated. Layers of black fruits, Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2015 Bridão of Avila, this wine made from a special selection of tannins and acidity come together into a rich wine, 87 Colheita Seleccionada Trincadeira (Tejo). fruit. Richly structured, it displays great style as balanced and ready to drink. VOS Selections. —R.V. This wine is soft and juicy, with ripe red fruits bal- well as intensity. Black fruits are beautifully inte- abv: 14% Price: $22 anced by acidity. A firmer backdrop offers serious grated into the ripe body of the wine, backed by tannins and dark-coffee flavors. The wine needs a acidity and with tannins and wood-aging flavors Quinta do Casal Branco 2014 Falcoaria Clás- few more months, so wait until 2018. Wine Enter- in the background. Drink from 2018. D’Ouro Vino 89 sico (Tejo). This structured wine is firm, prises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Selections. —R.V. with still-young tannins. Perfumed black fruits—a abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $30 blend of Castelão, Alicante Bouschet and Touriga Nacional—are crisp, with plenty of acidity. With its Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2015 Bridão Quinta da Ribeirinha 2013 Vale de Lobos dry core, the wine will age further. Drink from 2018. 87 Private Collection (Tejo). A blend of Touriga 92 Grande Escolha (Tejo). Dense and spicy, this Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Nacional and Alicante Bouschet, this is an intense blend includes Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bous- abv: 14% Price: $25 wine, packed with tannins and with a firm structure chet.The spice is balanced by generous black fruits that comes from the super-ripe grapes. Jammy and and acidity that give great structure and density. Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2015 Bridão with black-coffee flavors, the wine is concentrated Drink this wine from early 2018. JK Imports. Cellar 88 Colheita Seleccionada Touriga Nacional and needs to soften until 2018. Wine Enterprises Selection. —R.V. (Tejo). This is a ripe, generous wine. The structure LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 typical of Touriga Nacional is submerged in the abv: 15% Price: $14 perfumed blackberry and ripe plum flavors. It’s a Caves Velhas 2013 Cabeça de Toiro Reserva big wine, with tannins softly cushioned in the rich Fiuza 2016 3 Castas (Tejo). The three grapes 91 (Tejo). This blend of Castelão and Touriga fruitiness. Drink from 2018. Wine Enterprises LLC. 87 (castas) are Touriga Nacional, Syrah and Nacional is well balanced. Spice from wood aging Best Buy. —R.V. Cabernet Sauvignon. The blend makes a satisfyingly for nine months mingles with the ripe black-currant abv: 15% Price: $12 structured wine with some firm tannins as well as fruits. A firm wine with rich fruitiness, it’s ready to ripe fruitiness. Drink now. Votto Vines Importing. drink. Other Brothers Brands. Best Buy. —R.V. Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2015 Bridão Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 88 Reserva Tinto (Tejo). This super-ripe wine abv: 13% Price: $12 is laced with powerful black fruits and spice from wood aging. It is forward and bold, not holding back

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Quinta da Ribeirinha 2015 Ardósia Tinto Caves Velhas 2014 Casaleiro Reserva (Tejo). structure and is likely to remain there. Iberia Wine 87 (Tejo). Made to drink young, this fruity, 85 This ripe, smooth wine is juicy with attrac- & Spirits LLC. —R.V. softly structured wine is ripe with blackberry fruits. tive red fruits. A barnyard character at the back abv: 14% Price: $15 There is a touch of spice from the wood aging and a spoils the natural fruitiness. Tannins and black- lining of attractive acidity. Drink now. P.R. Grisley berry flavors provide a happier finish. Winesellers, Wines & Winemakers 2016 Dona Helena Company. —R.V. Ltd. —R.V. 83 (Península de Setúbal). This is a stalky wine abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $10 with dry tannins under the wild blackberry fruits. It has a green edge to it that spoils its fruitiness. Iberia Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2015 Bridão Fiuza 2016 Babu (Tejo). This blend of Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. 86 Colheita Seleccionada Alicante Bouschet 85 Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $11 (Tejo). Ripe fruit and dark-chocolate flavors mark is soft and ripe, with a good sense of structure and out this concentrated wine. Intense flavors bring fruitiness. Rounded and with acidity as a counter- out the black plum and damson fruit and heavy weight, the wine is ready. Drink now. Votto Vines ALENTEJO tannins that lie behind. Drink the wine from 2018. Importing. Best Buy. —R.V. Wine Enterprises LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $7 Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2013 Montes abv: 15% Price: $12 91 Claros Garrafeira (Alentejo). Garrafeira is the Fiuza 2015 Tinta Miúda (Tejo). Tinta Miúda, Portuguese term for a special selection by the wine- Quinta da Alorna 2015 Touriga Nacional 85 known as the rare Graciano grape in Spain, maker. This rich wine, with 30 months in wood, is 86 (Tejo). Part of a range of single-varietal is not often found in Portugal. Here it makes a ripe, impressive and concentrated. With robust tannins wines from this producer, this bottling features juicy and jammy wine that’s soft, with only a mini- and dense juicy black fruits, it presents a power- richly structured and perfumed Touriga Nacional. A mum of tannins to keep it together. It has a typically house of flavors. It is ready to drink. Luiz’s Grocery firm core gives a minty edge to the blackberry fruits. warm character and is ready to drink. Votto Vines and Liquors. —R.V. Drink from 2018. American B.D. Best Buy. —R.V. Importing. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $9 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Cartuxa 2013 Tinto Reserva (Alentejo). This Quinta da Alorna 2014 Touriga Nacional Casa Cadaval 2013 Vinha Padre Pedro (Tejo). 91 powerful wine has big ideas, as indicated by 86 (Tejo). This is a soft, open wine showing a 84 Named after an ancestor of the present the weight of the bottle. The wine itself is dense, few tannins and some of the perfumed character of owner who became a saint, this wine is soft, spicy showing some signs of extraction that give a dry and the grape. The palate is rounded and shows attrac- and smoky, although with excessive acidity. The firm aspect to the wine. A juicy, black-plum after- tive red fruits. American B.D. Best Buy. —R.V. wine is ready to drink. VOS Selections. —R.V. taste adds lift. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Quinta da Lapa 2014 Reserva Syrah (Tejo). Fiuza 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon-Touriga Herdade do Rocim 2013 Grande Rocim 86 With perfumed black-currant and dam- 84 Nacional (Tejo). Caramel and red-fruit 90 Reserva Alicante Bouschet (Alentejo). Vine- son fruitiness, this is a juicy wine. That freshness aromas are followed by a soft-texture candy and yard redevelopment and a new winery contributed contrasts with a firm texture, chocolate and smoky fruity taste backed by acidity. Drink now. Gabriella to this fine expression of ripe Alicante Bouschet flavors and a tannic aftertaste. Drink from 2018. Importers Inc. —R.V. wine under the direction of Catarina Vieira. It’s rich D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $11 and structured, reflecting the grape. The dark color abv: 14% Price: $18 and powerful spice and black-fruit flavors are right Fiuza 2016 Oceanus (Tejo). This is a simple, up front to give a dense wine that will always be Quinta da Lapa 2014 Reserva Touriga Nacio- 84 fruity wine, balanced and with red-berry firm. The wine comes in a very heavy bottle. Lang- 86 nal (Tejo). Ripe and juicy, this is a warm fruits. It has soft tannins and a line of attractive don Shiverick. —R.V. version of Touriga Nacional. Acidity and a smoky acidity, and is ready to drink. Votto Vines Import- abv: 15% Price: $95 character balance the crushed blackberry fruiti- ing. Best Buy. —R.V. ness. Drink the wine now. D’Ouro Vino Selections. abv: 13% Price: $7 Cartuxa 2013 Colheita Tinto (Alentejo). This —R.V. 89 is powerful stuff. Its high alcohol does show abv: 14% Price: $18 in the pepper edge. Happily, the bold black fruits PENÍNSUAL DE SETÚBAL and acidity also give the wine a fresher side. The Quinta do Casal Branco 2016 Lobo e Falcão structure and the fruits are generous and dense. 86 (Tejo). This juicy wine is full of ripe, open DFJ Vinhos 2014 Fonte do Beco Castelão This rich wine is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. fruit that makes it drinkable when young. It offers 88 (Península de Setúbal). This wine has —R.V. spice as well as rounded strawberry fruits that have weight and considerable richness. Spice and an abv: 14.5% Price: $30 just enough acidity. Drink now. Lionstone Interna- attractive perfume meld with the blackberry fruits tional. —R.V. and juicy acidity. The Castelão grape is at home in Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2015 Premium abv: 14% Price: $20 this region, which shows in the sense of terroir in 88 (Alentejo). Soft, fruity and easy to drink, this bold wine. Drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. this blend includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Touriga Wines & Winemakers 2015 Samora Tinto Best Buy. —R.V. Nacional and Alicante Bouschet. The Alentejo puts 86 (Tejo). This wine is firm, with extracted abv: 14% Price: $10 its warm stamp on these disparate grapes. It is tannins that give a bitter, dark-chocolate edge. ready to drink. Luiz’s Grocery and Liquors. —R.V. Underneath await black fruits, acidity and a crisper Wines & Winemakers 2014 Dona Helena abv: 14% Price: $15 edge. Drink from 2018. Wine Without Borders. 85 Reserva (Península de Setúbal). Structured —R.V. and with solid tannins, this is a wood- and spice- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 laden wine. Its fruit lies somewhere behind all this

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 yielding a powerful wine that needs another year to Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2015 Segre- ALENTEJANO be ready. Wait until 2018. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. 90 dos de São Miguel Touriga Nacional (Alen- abv: 15% Price: $45 tejano). Dense dusty tannins dominate this 100% Luis Duarte 2014 Rubrica Tinto (Alentejano). Touriga Nacional wine, powering its black fruits 95 Six grapes are in the blend of this generous, Monte da Ravasqueira 2014 Reserva (Alente- and acidity. The serious structure and firm, dry core opulent wine. It has fine, velvet-smooth tannins, 92 jano). If you haven’t tried Portuguese wines contrast with the juicy berry flavors that will give with a background dryness that gives structure. before, this impressively rich wine is a good place a bright character as the wine matures. Drink from Black fruits shine through, enhanced by the spice to start. Aging for three years, with 12 months in 2018. Quintessential Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. and toast of the wood aging. Drink from 2019. Spe- wood, gives it a smooth, ripe black-fruit character. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 cialty Cellars. —R.V. The acidity and the fruit are a seamless part of the abv: 14.5% Price: $50 texture of the tannins. The wine is ready to drink. Casa Santos Lima 2015 Quid Pro Quo LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. 90 Reserva (Alentejano). An unusual blend of Herdade do Rocim 2013 Edition abv: NA Price: $18 Touriga Nacional and Petit Verdot, this wine does 94 (Alentejano). Portuguese Sommelier Marco in fact work. Tannins, perfume and a dense, dark Alexandre selected the best barrels of Alicante Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2016 Herdade color give weight and concentration. It is a powerful Bouschet, Touriga Nacional and Petit Verdot for this 91 de São Miguel Art.Terra Amphora Tinto (Alen- wine with a future. Drink from 2019. Multiple U.S. wine. Rich and stylish, it offers plenty of black fruits tejano). For full review see page 9. importers. —R.V. and juicy acidity, with a touch of spice and hints abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $25 from the wood aging. It is ready to drink. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2015 Monte Luis Duarte 2015 Rapariga da Quinta Col- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 91 dos Amigos Premium (Alentejano). Wood- 90 heita Seleccionada Tinto (Alentejano). Aged aged and ripe, this is a full, generous blend of Ali- for 12 months in wood, this smooth, ripe wine is Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2014 Mal- cante Bouschet, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacio- already rich and delicious. Its structure is well inte- 93 adinha Tinto (Alentejano). This wine comes nal. Full of rounded black fruits and firm tannins, grated into the berry fruits and acidity. It’s ready to from an estate in southern Alentejo. Aged for 14 it needs further aging to bring out the full supple- drink from 2018. Specialty Cellars. Editors’ Choice. months in mainly new barrels, it is rich in spice ness and richness. Drink from 2019. Quintessential —R.V. and toast that are balanced by great black fruits and Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16 generous tannins. This excellent wine is still aging; abv: 14% Price: $25 drink from 2019. H2 Vino. —R.V. Casca Wines 2014 Monte Cascas Reserva abv: 14.5% Price: $59 Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2015 Segredos 89 (Alentejano). This black-fruit-flavored 91 de São Miguel Reserva (Alentejano). Ripe and wine comes from a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Ara- Luis Duarte 2015 Rapariga da Quinta Reserva textured, this is a juicy, black-fruit-flavored wine. gonez and Trincadeira, all local Alentejo grapes. It 93 (Alentejano). Open-tank fermentation gives Power behind the fruit gives firmness and concen- is full of rich fruit, with acidity to balance. The tex- this wine a ripe, jammy character that is balanced tration. Acidity and berry fruits contrast with pep- ture and the tannins contribute to the density and by the intense black fruits and acidity. Together per and a bitter edge that needs to soften. Drink power, allowing the wine to age further. Drink from they form a rich, structured, juicy and firm wine from 2019. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. 2018. Laurel Importers. —R.V. that is likely to age. Drink from 2019. Specialty Cel- —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 lars. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $25 Ciconia 2015 Touriga Nacional (Alentejano). Herdade do Rocim 2014 Reserva (Alentejano). 89 This highly perfumed wine is rich in both Casca Wines 2013 Monte Cascas Grande 91 This ripe, black-fruit-flavored wine is con- black fruits and tannins. It has good structure and 92 Reserva (Alentejano). Ripe and luscious, centrated and intense. Big, bold tannins partner a dense texture, both enhanced by the wood aging. Alicante Bouschet gives this wine its color and with rich blackberry and black-plum fruits. The Acidity at the end keeps the wine crisp. Tri-Vin intensely smoky, spicy tannic structure. The texture weight is balanced by acidity and bright fruit at the Imports. —R.V. is dusty, with black chocolate as well as black plums end. Drink this wine now. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 adding concentration and aging potential. Drink abv: 15% Price: $25 this wine from 2019. Laurel Importers. —R.V. Herdade do Rocim 2015 Alicante Bouschet abv: NA Price: $39 Santos & Seixo 2015 Reserva Tinto (Alente- 89 (Alentejano). The red-juice Alicante Bous- 91 jano). This wine is ripe, balanced and full chet gives a strongly tannic wine here. Its firm Espaço Rural 2013 Poento Reserva (Alente- of bold, rich fruit. Solid tannins under the opulent structure is balanced by the generous, juicy black 92 jano). This big, ripe wine is dominated by black plums and black currants fit well with the fruits. Fermented in open stone lagars, this wine Alicante Bouschet. Between the tannins and the acidity and the structure. Give it a little time and is opulent and rich. Acidity and the firm aftertaste dense black fruit, the wine is concentrated and gen- drink from 2018. Luiz’s Grocery and Liquors. —R.V. keep the wine in check and balanced. Drink from erous. Perfumed, full of fruit and a good line of acid- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 2018. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. ity, this rich wine is ready to drink. Tambu Wines. abv: 15% Price: $22 —R.V. Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2015 Her- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 90 dade de São Miguel Touriga Nacional (Alen- Herdade do Rocim 2014 Alentejano. This tejano). This is a rich and perfumed wine. Packed 89 structured wine shows firm tannins as well Herdade do Rocim 2013 Reserva (Alente- with tarry tannins, dark black fruits and hints of as plenty of black fruit. At the same time, it has a 92 jano). This wine is concentrated and struc- truffles, it is firm and full. The structure is still sense of balance and elegance, as well as crispness tured. With dark tannins and bitter-chocolate fla- important in this wine, pushing forward around the that counteracts the ripe, juicy fruit. The wine is vors, it is dense with a ripe texture as well as big fruit. Wait a while to drink from 2018. Quintessen- ready to drink. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. black fruits. It comes from a vineyard selection, tial Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 14% Price: $20

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Santos & Seixo 2015 Santos da Casa Reserva was aged in wood for nine months. Filled by rich crisp aftertaste. Drink the wine now. Wine Without 89 Sem Barrica Unoaked (Alentejano). Bold blackberry fruits, the generous texture is cut by Borders. Best Buy. —R.V. and fruity, this wine shows the richness of the black acidity. Drink this smooth wine now. Luiz’s Grocery abv: 14% Price: $12 fruits. It has fruit tannins, a lush texture and a dry and Liquors. —R.V. core. With its density and its ripe fruit, it could abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Casa Agricola Santos Jorge 2015 Toutalga age further. Drink from 2018. Luiz’s Grocery and 86 Tinto (Alentejano). This ripe wine is suf- Liquors. —R.V. Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2016 Atlân- fused with southern warmth, with soft tannins and abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 87 tico (Alentejano). This lightly wood-aged generous black fruits. Rounded and smooth with wine is ripe, with some firm tannins and a dense just a hint of wood aging, it is ready to drink. Sar- Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2016 São structure. It is full of red-berry and spice flavors mento’s Imports. —R.V. 88 Miguel do Sul (Alentejano). For full review that are underscored by the dry tannins. Drink this abv: 14% Price: $8 see page 14. Best Buy. balanced wine now. Quintessential Wines. Best abv: 14% Price: $12 Buy. —R.V. Ciconia 2016 Tinto (Alentejano). Hints of abv: 13.5% Price: $9 86 wood go well with the fruits in this bright Casa Santos Lima 2015 Valcatrina by Santos wine. It is bursting with berries and with soft tan- 88 Lima (Alentejano). A brief period of wood Casa Agricola Santos Jorge 2015 Morgado da nins. The acidity and the fruit give it a crisp after- aging delivers soft tannins and juicy blackberry 87 Canita (Alentejano). Deeply colored, aro- taste. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. fruits to this ripe wine. A streak of acidity gives the matic and packed with red fruits, this is a solid, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 powerful wine a crisp edge. Drink now. Multiple dense wine. Blending Aragonez, Trincadeira and U.S. importers. —R.V. Alfrocheiro normally found in the Dão region, the Global Wines 2015 Monte da Cal Colheita abv: 14.5% Price: $15 wine is concentrated and conveys a strong sense of 86 Seleccionada (Alentejano). This fruity wine structure. Drink this wine from 2018. Sarmento’s bursts with the warmth of the Alentejo. It has a rich Casca Wines 2015 Monte Cascas Colheita Imports. —R.V. texture, black currant and berry fruits, and just the 88 (Alentejano). This smooth, rich wine abv: 14% Price: $13 right amount of acidity. It is a good wine to drink exudes southern warmth. The blend of Touriga young. Best Beverage Corporation. Best Buy. —R.V. Nacional, Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet gives a Casa Santos Lima 2015 Fortissimo (Alen- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 ripe, dark-colored wine dominated by black fruits. 87 tejano). Smooth red-berry fruits give this Tannins and acidity provide happy support. Drink wine a glow of ripeness. The blend of Touriga Nacio- J. Portugal Ramos 2016 Loios Tinto (Alen- now. Laurel Importers. —R.V. nal, Syrah and Alicante Bouschet is dense and full of 86 tejano). The latest vintage of this popu- abv: 14% Price: $13 dark berries, with a touch of wood aging to smooth lar brand continues the same ripe, soft character everything out. Drink now. Multiple U.S. importers. as before. Red berry fruits, balanced acidity and a Espaço Rural 2016 Bojador (Alentejano). —R.V. rounded aftertaste all contribute to a wine that is 88 This open, fruity wine is named after Cape abv: 14% Price: $15 ready to drink. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. Bojador in the western Sahara, which Portuguese Best Buy. —R.V. sailors rounded in the 15th century on their way Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2015 Monte abv: 14% Price: $9 around Africa. The wine’s red fruits and acidity are 87 da Peceguina Tinto (Alentejano). Bold and easy, ripe and with a juicy aftertaste. Tambu Wines. rich, this wine has plenty of tannins to allow it to Monte da Ravasqueira 2016 Guarda Rios —R.V. age, and equally generous ripe black-plum fruits to 86 Tinto (Alentejano). This soft, spicy wine abv: 14% Price: $16 make it attractive now. Solid and firm, the wine is has easy fruitiness. Black currants are balanced already drinkable with its juicy fruitiness, or age with acidity and a bright aftertaste. This great-value Herdade do Rocim 2016 Mariana Tinto until 2020. H2 Vino. —R.V. wine is ready to drink. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. 88 (Alentejano). This wine is rich and packed abv: 14.5% Price: $25 —R.V. with black fruits. The soft texture and ripe fruiti- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 ness mean the tannins will soon fully integrate. Herdade do Rocim 2016 Alves Vieira (Alen- Drink from 2018. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. 87 tejano). This juicy wine is ripe with black Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2016 Brado abv: 14% Price: $15 fruits cut with acidity. A firm tannic core sustains 85 (Alentejano). Young and fruity, this is a this rich fruitiness, giving the wine enough struc- bright and wine for immediate drinking. It has hints Herdade do Rocim 2015 Alves Vieira Reserva ture to age further. Drink from 2018. Langdon Shiv- of tannins, plenty of red fruits and no wood. Luiz’s 88 (Alentejano). Named after the family that erick. Best Buy. —R.V. Grocery and Liquors. Best Buy. —R.V. owns Rocim, this wine is ripe with soft tannins and abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $8 juicy black-currant fruits. A core of dryness is sur- rounded by the attractive acidity. Drink now. Lang- Herdade do Rocim 2015 Amphora Vinho de Herdade do Rocim 2015 Touriga Nacional don Shiverick. —R.V. 87 Talha (Alentejano). This comes from one of 85 (Alentejano). This wine is earthy, with a abv: 13.5% Price: $19 the new waves of wines from Alentejo that are fer- yeasty edge. It offers plenty of Touriga Nacional’s mented in clay amphoras. A fruity wine with lots of perfumed fruit although this is masked by a barn- Monte da Ravasqueira 2015 Guarda Rios acidity and gentle tannins, it’s ready to drink. Lang- yard character that needs to blow away. The wine 88 Signature (Alentejano). Bold and juicy, this don Shiverick. —R.V. requires another year to show its full potential, so is full of blackberry flavors, black-plum skins and abv: 12.5% Price: $20 drink from 2018. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. bright acidity. Six months in wood added the spicy abv: 14.5% Price: $16 element to this generous wine. Drink now. LGL Wines & Winemakers 2014 Album Lua Cheia Imports LLC. —R.V. 87 em Vinhas Velhas (Alentejano). Produced Magnum Vinhos 2015 Flor de Maio Mayflower abv: 13.5% Price: $13 in the vineyards of Estremoz, the marble capital of 85 (Alentejano). Named after the poppy that Portugal, this wine is a ready-to-drink blend of red blooms in May in the Alentejo, this wine is juicy and Santos & Seixo 2015 Santos da Casa Tinto fruits and soft tannins. A juicy character gives it a fruity, with a light touch of tannins. It is all red ber- 88 (Alentejano). This ripe blend of four grapes

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 ries, with an easygoing juicy character, Drink now. acidity, it is already balanced. The power comes Sandeman 2015 Quinta do Seixo Vintage Sarmento’s Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. from the dry tannins and the rich, concentrated 94 Port. Ripe and fruity, this is already deli- abv: 13.5% Price: $7 fruits. Drink from 2026. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. —R.V. cious, but that doesn’t detract from the firm tan- abv: 20% Price: $52 nins and density of a wine that will age well. It has Magnum Vinhos 2015 Maria Mora (Alente- all the elements, with the fruit, solid tannins and 85 jano). This is an easygoing, ripe and spicy Croft 2015 Quinta da Roeda Port. Beauti- a juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2025. Pernod Ricard. wine. Red-berry fruits and ripe tannins combine to 95 fully perfumed, this is a ripe and structured —R.V. give a rounded wine that is ready to drink. Sarmen- wine. It has fine dusty tannins, intense blackberry abv: 20% Price: $50 to’s Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. fruits and a dark-licorice aftertaste. Acidity keeps abv: 13.5% Price: $9 the wine fruity and fresh although with those Dow’s 2015 Quinta Senhora da Ribeira Vin- firm tannins, it will need time. Drink from 2027. 93 tage Port. Rich and fruity, this wine is Monte da Ravasqueira 2016 Fonte da Ser- Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. packed with intense black-currant flavors. It is 84 rana (Alentejano). This stalky wine has a abv: 20% Price: $55 perfumed, ripe with a good tannic background. The green character that gives a bell pepper taste. That density of the wine and the firm structure point to a comes through the tight tannins and acidity, con- Taylor Fladgate 2015 Quinta da Vargellas long aging process. Drink this beautifully structured trasting with the black-currant fruit. Drink now. 95 Vintage Port. This wine is ripe with tannins wine from 2026. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Cellar LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. and powerful with ripe fruit. A solid character gives Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 it density. The tannins and the richness of the wine abv: 20% Price: $70 are ripe and concentrated with fruit. Drink from 2026. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Fonseca 2015 Guimaraens Vintage Port. This OTHER RED WINES abv: 20% Price: $58 93 is a ripe and delicious wine, packed with tannins as well as perfumed fruit. It has density as Casa Santos Lima 2016 Rabo de Galo W. & J. Graham’s 2015 The Stone Terraces Vin- well as rich blackberries and acidity to balance. The 88 (Algarve). This rich wine comes from the 95 tage Port. An elegant wine with beautifully wine will be ready to drink from 2025. Kobrand. far south of Portugal. It is structured and dense integrated tannins, this is concentrated as well as —R.V. with black-plum fruit and firm tannins. Spice and fruity. Its structure and blackberry fruits are sweet abv: 20% Price: $60 grilled toast from wood aging and acidity gives this and ripe. The perfumes of this wine leave a stylish, wine a good balance as well as ripeness. Drink now. fragrant aftertaste. Drink from 2027. Premium Port Poças 2015 Port. Firm, dusty tannins with Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 great damson fruits characterize this wine abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 20% Price: $200 that will be impressive as it ages. With its ripe structure and concentration, it is perfumed and Casa Santos Lima 2015 Quinta das Setencos- Churchill’s 2015 Quinta da Gricha Vintage rich. The power resides in the dense aftertaste. 87 tas (Alenquer). This wine comes from the 94 Port. Ripe, fruity and balanced, this has the Drink from 2026. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. small region of Alenquer, which is in the larger Lis- potential to be a delicious, not-too-concentrated abv: 20% Price: $85 boa area. That influence of the ocean shows in the wine. Acidity and some dry tannins give the wine crisp black fruits and in the juicy acidity. The wine a firm character that is balanced by the fragrant Poças 2003 Colheita Port. Colheita must is ready to drink. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. berry fruits. Drink from 2026. Frederick Wildman 93 be barrel-aged for at least seven years, but —R.V. & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. Poças went for the long haul, bottling this in 2017. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 20% Price: $60 The result is a deep-gold color and richly mature flavors. Caramel, spice and a dry edge from the Caves Velhas 2014 D. Fuas Reserva (Terras do Quinta do Vesuvio 2015 Vintage Port. Full of wood aging gives it character, just hinting at the 87 Dão). This wine comes from vineyards out- 94 ripe fruit, this wine is rich while also hav- brandy, with acidity at the end. It is rich and ready side the boundaries of the Dão region but has the ing a delicately perfumed character. With its spice, to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. same typical blend. It shows minerality as well as generous fruits and sense of poise, it will age well. abv: 20% Price: $50 rich fruit and soft tannins. The wine is balanced, Drink from 2027. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Cellar stylish and deliciously ready to drink. Winesellers, Selection. —R.V. Quevedo 2015 Quinta Vale d’Agodinho Vin- Ltd. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $78 93 tage Port. This wine has richness, with fine abv: 13% Price: $10 tannins along with exuberant fruit. With its con- Quinta dos Murças 2015 Vintage Port. This centration and ripe berry flavors it has power as 94 is very dense, with concentrated, dusty well as elegance. Juicy and packed with blackberry PORT tannins and powerful blackberry flavors. It is rich and damsons, it will be ready to drink from 2026. and full of blackberry fruits along with acidity and P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. Taylor Fladgate NV 325 Anniversary Port. a beautiful perfumed aftertaste. Drink from 2027. abv: 20% Price: $60 97 This is a superb blend of aged tawny Ports, Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Cellar Selection. blended to celebrate the company’s 325th anniver- —R.V. Quinta do Sagrado 2010 Late Bottled Vin- sary. Filled with rich fruit, it has great depth and abv: 20% Price: $65 93 tage Port. Produced in the old stone lagars spicy richness although it is also impressively fresh. at the estate, this bold and fruity wine is beauti- Dried fruits and red plums are lifted with a hint of Quinta Vale Dona Maria 2015 Vintage Port. fully ripe. Light tannins are balanced by generous smoky wood and good acidity. Like any tawny Port, 94 This wine is dense, dark with tannins while black plum and berry fruits, topped with the edge it is ready to drink. Kobrand. —R.V. also perfumed. A solid structure gives concentration of spirits. It is in a dry style of Port, a wine either abv: 20% Price: $40 and richness. It will be a hugely fruity wine with a to drink now or keep for a few years, at least until dense aftertaste. Drink from 2027. MS Walker. Cel- 2020. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. C. da Silva 2015 Dalva Vintage Port. Power- lar Selection. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $28 95 ful, dusty tannins dominate this ripe wine. abv: 20% Price: $70 With its great blackberry fruits, currants and juicy

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Quinta do Vallado 2015 Adelaide Vintage allow it to develop slowly and surely. Drink this with some fine tannins, certainly plenty to promise 93 Port. This wine has a powerful, dense struc- fruity wine from 2025. Wine Enterprises LLC. —R.V. good aging. Drink from 2025. Broadbent Selections, ture that balances the ripe, jammy fruit and solid abv: 20% Price: $42 Inc. —R.V. tannins. It is full of juicy acidity and the potential abv: 20% Price: $66 of delicious black-plum fruitiness. The wine is in Vallegre 2015 Quinta da Vista Alegre Vin- a dry style, concentrated and needing time. Drink 92 tage Port. This well-integrated wine is full Cálem 2015 Vintage Port. The structure is from 2026. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. of black plums and stylish tannins. The structure 89 the thing with this wine, giving a bitter edge —R.V. is all there, giving firm tannins as well as richness. to the still very young fruit. Juicy blackberry flavors abv: 20% Price: $110 It is already a beautiful wine, ripe, solid and with show the fruit potential of this firm wine. It needs excellent potential. Drink from 2026. K&L Wine to age, with its concentration and dense aftertaste. Quinta Vale Dona Maria 2015 VZ Vintage Merchants. —R.V. Drink from 2026. Wineworth LLC. —R.V. 93 Port. With dense tannins and already gen- abv: 20% Price: $45 abv: 20% Price: $40 erous and opulent fruit, this wine has great struc- ture plus fine black-currant fruit and acidity. Its Duorum 2012 Late Bottled Vintage Port. Made Delaforce 2011 Late Bottled Vintage Port. perfumes are balanced, with an elegant character. 91 from a field blend, this Port is rich and packed 89 This LBV Port is powered by jammy dam- It should be ready to drink from 2026. MS Walker. with fruit. The tannins and juicy black plums are son and plum fruits along with dried figs and a juicy Cellar Selection. —R.V. balanced by prune, spice and a hint of wood aging. aftertaste. The palate is dry, with tannins just in abv: 20% Price: $70 Drink this wine from now and until 2022. Mundo- evidence, although the balance is just right. Drink Vino–The Winebow Group. —R.V. now. Signature Imports. —R.V. Viera de Sousa 2015 Vintage Port. The dense abv: 20% Price: $90 abv: 20% Price: $20 93 tannins of this wine balance the ripe- ness. With concentration and generous blackberry Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo 2015 Poças 2012 Late Bottled Vintage Port. This fruits, it is a rich wine, broadly structured and with 91 Vintage Port. This juicy, ripe and rich wine 89 LBV has many of the structural hallmarks of swathes of opulent fruit. It will need plenty of time, has a sweet jammy background, giving concentra- a fine Vintage. The extra wood aging has smoothed so drink from 2026. Superior Wines. —R.V. tion as well as good acidity and an open, ripe tex- the tannins to make a perfumed, ripe wine. Dried abv: 20% Price: $75 ture. Drink this already accessible wine from 2025. fruits mingle with red fruits and acidity to give a VOS Selections. —R.V. rich wine that is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. Barão de Vilar 2015 Feuerheerd Vintage Port. abv: 20% Price: $28 —R.V. 92 Dusty tannins, ripe fruit and concentrated abv: 20% Price: $30 structure point to a wine that is going to age well. Barão de Vilar NV Ten Years Old White Port. It also has great perfumes and juicy black-currant 90 This gold-colored wine has been aged for Quevedo 2012 LBV Port. This rich, spicy Port fruits that are going to be delicious as the wine ages. an average of 10 years in wood. It balances between 89 is full of jammy black fruits, dried prunes Drink this wine from 2026. Intercontinental Pack- ripe yellow fruits and dried fruits that are backed and raisins along with a good line of acidity. It is on aging. —R.V. by a spicy touch from the brandy used to fortify the the dry side of the Late Bottled Vintage spectrum, abv: 20% Price: $70 wine. Drink now. Intercontinental Packaging. —R.V. giving a wine that is structured as well as full of abv: 19.5% Price: $15/500 ml fruit. The aftertaste, with its tannins still in place, Burmester 2015 Quinta do Arnozelo Vintage suggests it will age at least until 2022, although it 92 Port. This rich wine is full of ripe, perfumed C. da Silva 2015 Quinta de Ventozelo Port. is very drinkable now. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. fruit. With its dark tannins and violet and spice fla- 90 Dense, dusty tannins dominate this rich abv: 19.5% Price: $25 vors, it is already attractive. However, the power of wine that has structure as well as plenty of ripe the wine and the dark concentration will allow it black-currant fruits. The balance, ripe and with Duorum 2015 Vintage Port. Passion-fruit age. Drink from 2027. Wineworth LLC. —R.V. great tannins and acidity, is already there. Drink 88 aromas are mingled with a strongly per- abv: 20% Price: $40 from 2026. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. —R.V. fumed character that comes from Touriga Nacio- abv: 20% Price: $58 nal and Touriga Franca. It is ripe with some firm Niepoort 2015 Vintage Port. This is a very structure, powered with dark tannins as well as this 92 perfumed wine, fragrant with violets and Cockburn’s 2015 Bicentenary Vintage (Port). hugely perfumed fruit. Drink from 2026. Mundo- with dry tannins. It has a juicy character along 90 This wine has acidity and juicy black-cur- Vino–The Winebow Group. —R.V. with acidity. The wine has a dry style, very firm and rant fruits. It is relatively light in structure, giving a abv: 20% Price: $100 dense. It will age well, ready to drink from 2026. delicious wine with attractive fruits that’s ready to Martine’s Wines. —R.V. drink from 2024. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. Messias NV 10 Years White Port. This dry abv: 20% Price: $NA abv: 20% Price: $80 88 style of white Port offers caramel and dried- fruit flavors, with hints of apricots in the back- Ramos-Pinto 2015 Vintage Port. With its Niepoort 2015 Bioma Vintage Vinha Velha ground. The contrast and dryness come from spicy 92 highly perfumed character, this wine is 90 Port. Concentrated black currant jelly aro- wood flavors from the old-barrel aging. Drink now. intense with ripe tannins and delicious acidity. It mas lead on the powerful nose. The tannins are con- LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. almost needs to hold back on its ebullient aromas centrated although the intensely perfumed charac- abv: NA Price: $40 and fruitiness to balance out. The tannic structure ter of the fruit is likely to be delicious. Acidity at could help, with a dry aftertaste that hints at the the end balances this over-the-top wine. Martine’s Poças 2007 Colheita Port. The wood aging fruit to come. Drink from 2026. Maisons Marques Wines. —R.V. 88 has retained the fruitiness of a young Port & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $NA while adding a sweeter, toffee character. That makes abv: 20% Price: $75 this a very accessible Colheita tawny, rich while not Quinta do Crasto 2015 Vintage Port. The too intense. It is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. Rozes 2015 Vintage Port. Fruity and with 90 wine has a jammy character that gives it —R.V. 92 juicy acidity, this wine is crisp, with a concentration. It is sweet although with enough abv: 20% Price: $40 strongly perfumed aftertaste. A tannic core will acidity. The blackberry jelly flavors are firmed out

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Quinta da Romaneira 2012 Late Bottled Vin- apple and citrus fruits, this is a concentrated wood- Herdade do Rocim 2016 Goivo (Vinho Verde). 88 tage Port. This is a rich wine in a dry style aged wine. The acidity is reminder of the cool cli- 85 Soft, medium sweet and fruity, this light, for Port, bringing out the red fruits as well as dried mate of Portugal’s Minho region. Drink from 2018. crisp wine is good for quaffing. It’s easy on the pal- fruits and acidity. It’s structured and firm while also MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —R.V. ate, with a bright, refreshing and clean aftertaste. fruity. Because it has been bottled unfiltered, it will abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Drink immediately. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. age further and will be at its best from 2019. Grape abv: 9.5% Price: $13 Expectations (CA). —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2016 Maria Papoila abv: 19.5% Price: $25 90 (Vinho Verde). While still light, this Vinho Wines & Winemakers 2016 Azul Portugal Verde has a creamy texture and a sense of richness. 85 (Vinho Verde). A dry style of Vinho Verde, Quinta do Sagrado NV Fine Ruby Port. Foot It blends two of the quality grapes of the region, this is crisp and cool. Slight petillance adds a lift, 88 treading during fermentation, plus aging in Alvarinho and Loureiro. Together they make an aro- brightening the citrus flavors and acidity. Drink French oak or large vats for four years makes this a matic, intense and tangy wine that is ready to drink. now. Amara Wines & Spirits. —R.V. special sort of Ruby. It is in a dry style, with a good Christopher Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $12 balance between the wood and the juicy red-berry abv: 11.5% Price: $14 fruits. The wine is ready to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2016 Toucas Alvarinho DOURO abv: 19.5% Price: $19 90 (Vinho Verde). Pure Alvarinho from the north of the Vinho Verde region makes this a Casca Wines 2013 Monte Cascas Vinhas Velhas Kopke 2015 Quinta São Luiz Vintage Port. smooth, ripe wine. It is perfumed, stylish and with 91 Old Vines (Douro). This is a sumptuous wine 87 With hints of vanilla as well as black cur- a good balance between acidity and refreshing green from Viosinho, a grape winemakers almost gave up rants, this wine still needs to come into balance. It and white fruitiness. Drink the wine now. Christo- on due to low yields. With its lees stirred for 18 has attractive fruitiness along with tannins, but it is pher Imports. —R.V. months, the wine has intensity and a lightly oxida- still young. Drink from 2027. Wineworth LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 tive character. Now maturing well, its citrus fruit is abv: 20% Price: $55 becoming almost toasty, certainly nutty. Great acid- Casa de Vilacetinho 2016 Avesso Superior ity keeps this rich wine full of crispness. Drink now. Quinta do Vale Meão 2015 Vintage Port. This 88 Avesso (Vinho Verde). Avesso is the hall- Laurel Importers. —R.V. 87 wine is light in body but heavily perfumed. mark white grape from the south of the Vinho Verde abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Clean fruit shows on the palate, with an addition of region. This wine is deliciously crisp, with a touch geranium aromas. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. of oak to add spice. It is full of ripe apples, with Quanta Terra 2014 Grande Reserva Branco —R.V. an aftertaste that brims with acidity. Santa Maria 91 (Douro). After 14 months in large wood bar- abv: 20% Price: $80 Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. rels, this wine is full of spicy flavors that go with the abv: 13.5% Price: $13 rich yellow fruits, generous apricots and peaches, and delicious acidity. This ripe wine is ready to OTHER Casa de Vilacetinho 2016 Vinho Verde. A drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Editors’ 87 blend of four Vinho Verde grapes, this dry Choice. —R.V. Global Wines NV Cabriz Impar (Vinho Licor- wine is crisp and spicy, with an herbal character. It abv: 13% Price: $16 93 oso). This fortified red blend was aged in has bright fruitiness, plenty of acidity and a crisp, wood for 20 years. That has taken away fruitiness tight, mineral aftertaste. Santa Maria Imports. Best Quevedo 2015 Claudia’s Reserve White and, as with an aged Tawny Port, has given the wine Buy. —R.V. 91 (Douro). This lightly wood-aged wine is full flavors of dried prune, spice and old wood aromas. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 of yellow fruits touched by spice. It is balanced, The wine is for sipping and savoring, ready to drink with good acidity to complement the fruits and with now. Best Beverage Corporation. —R.V. Casa de Vilacetinho 2016 Avesso & Arinto toast and minerality to give structure. It is ready to abv: 20% Price: $30/500 ml 87 (Vinho Verde). This is a tight, nervy wine, drink. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. steely in character, with plenty of wound-up, crisp abv: 13% Price: $25 fruits. It needs a few more months; drink from 2018. PORTUGAL Santa Maria Imports. —R.V. Quinta das Carvalhas 2015 Carvalhas Branco abv: 13% Price: $13 91 (Douro). This smooth, wood-aged wine is WHITE WINES impressively ripe and stylish. Yellow fruit and pear Casa de Vilacetinho 2016 Avesso & Azal flavors are spiced with nutmeg and toast from the VINHO VERDE 87 (Vinho Verde). This is the lightest in a series wood, giving richness and a ripe character that are of wines featuring the Avesso grape. Herbal, crisp balanced by acidity. Drink this wine now. Saranty Casa de Vilacetinho 2016 Avesso & Loureiro and with plenty of acidity, it’s also fruity and ready Imports. —R.V. 90 (Vinho Verde). This wine, one in a series to drink. Santa Maria Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35 featuring the Avesso grape, is a blend of two of the abv: 12.5% Price: $13 major Vinho Verde grapes. Avesso comes from the Caves Transmontanas 2014 Vertice Grande south of Vinho Verde; Loureiro is from the central Casa de Vilacetinho 2016 Grande Escolha 89 Reserva Branco (Douro). This wood-aged section. The wine is ripe, rounded and full of apple, 85 (Vinho Verde). This soft, medium-sweet white is richly endowed with yellow and crisp apple pear and green-plum fruits. The aftertaste is crisp wine comes from one of the oldest producers in the fruits. Balanced with the toast and spice, they give and tangy. Santa Maria Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Vinho Verde region, established in 1790. The wine is a ripe, opulent wine that is ready to drink. Wine In- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 fruity and crisp, with a light sparkle. Bright lemon Motion. —R.V. acidity comes through strongly at the end. Santa abv: 13% Price: $26 J. Portugal Ramos 2016 Alvarinho (Vinho Maria Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 90 Verde). A venture to the north of Portugal abv: 10% Price: $10 Secret Spot Wines 2016 Vale da Poupa for this Alentejo-based producer gives a rich view of 89 Branco (Douro). The Moscatel Gallego (the Alvarinho. With a smooth, ripe texture and layers of Moscatel from Galicia further north) produces a

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strongly perfumed wine even though it is dry. Aro- cious, refreshing lemon-curd flavor. Drink now. P.R. mas are further enhanced by the floral character of Grisley Company. —R.V. DÃO the wine. It is ripe, with good acidity that gives it a abv: 13% Price: $14 very fresh, crisp character. Vintage Wine Market- Global Wines 2015 Casa de Santar Branco ing. —R.V. Real Companhia Velha 2016 Porca de Murça 91 Reserva (Dão). Winemaking at the aristo- abv: 13% Price: $13 87 Branco (Douro). This delicious and refresh- cratic Santar estate is run by Global Wines. This ing wine comes from the plateau above the Douro rich wine, dominated by the high-quality Encruzado Wines & Winemakers 2016 Andreza Reserva Valley, giving it a cool character along with a mineral grape, is poised between crisp apple fruitiness and 89 (Douro). This is a 50-50 blend of Viosinho and spice texture. The wine is perfumed from the toast from wood aging. At two years old, the wine is and Verdelho, giving a rich wine with touches of 20% Moscatel in the blend. Drink now. Metrowine just ready to drink although it will be better from vanilla as well as ripe white stone fruits. Its youth Distribution. Best Buy. —R.V. 2018. Best Beverage Corporation. —R.V. and exuberant fruit need to calm down and inte- abv: 12.5% Price: $11 abv: 13% Price: $14 grate better. It will be a rich wine from 2018. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. Rui Roboredo Madeira 2016 Castello d’Alba Magnum Vinhos 2016 Ribeiro Santo Pinha abv: 13% Price: $18 87 Branco (Douro). From vines grown in the 88 (Dão). This is a blend of Encruzado, Malva- upper Douro Superior, this is crisp while also hav- sia and Bical (more commonly found in the coastal Poças 2016 Poças Reserva Branco (Douro). ing ripe apple and apricot fruitiness. It is a lively vineyards west of the Dão). Smooth and creamy tex- 88 A ripe, mineral and richly fruity wine, this wine, tangy with orange zest and a touch of spice. tured, it offers a perfumed mix of mangos and crisp is crisp while also having a creamy texture. It is a Drink now. MS Walker. Best Buy. —R.V. mandarin zest. Drink this wine from late 2017. Ibe- blend of four of the Douro white grapes, rich and abv: 12.5% Price: $12 rian Wine Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. finished with acidity. Drink from 2018. Tri-Vin abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Imports. —R.V. Rui Roboredo Madeira 2016 Vinha da Urze abv: 13.5% Price: $25 87 Branco (Douro). From a 34-acre vineyard on Global Wines 2016 Cabriz Biologico Organic the high plateau above the Douro river, this wine 87 (Dão). A small-production blend of Encru- Quanta Terra 2014 Terra a Terra Reserva is delicious, fruity and creamy. It has a crisp, fresh zado, Arinto and Malvasia, this wine is produced 88 Branco (Douro). Partially aged in oak, this feel, light and bright while also full of ripe white from organically grown grapes. Ripe with yellow wine is crisp, juicy and bright with citrus and acid- fruits, apples and pears. Drink now. Aidil Wines/ fruits and pineapple, it has a good line of balancing ity. Apples and pears come through strongly in this Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. acidity and citrus. Drink the wine now. Best Bever- attractive wine that is ready to drink. Aidil Wines/ abv: 12.5% Price: $11 age Corporation. Best Buy. —R.V. Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Real Companhia Velha 2016 Evel Branco 86 (Douro). Smooth, creamy and lightly per- Global Wines 2016 Cabriz Branco Colheita Real Companhia Velha 2015 Porca de Murça fumed, this wine is packed with apple, pear and yel- 87 Seleccionada (Dão). This is one of a range of 88 Reserva Branco (Douro). This fruity, uno- low fruit flavors that are topped with acidity. Well value wines under the Cabriz label. A cool fermen- aked wine is bright with citrus and crisp apple fla- balanced, it is ready to drink. Metrowine Distribu- tation, stainless-steel-aged wine, it is full of crisp vors, lightly perfumed from the Verdelho and Cer- tion. —R.V. fruit, light acidity and a clean, smooth texture. The ceal grapes in the blend. It’s a refreshing wine that abv: 13% Price: $15 wine is bright and ready to drink. Aidil Wines/Old is ready now. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 Santos & Seixo 2016 Santos da Casa Branco abv: 12.5% Price: $9 86 (Douro). This unoaked, fruity wine is crisp, Wines & Winemakers 2016 Andreza Códega full of green fruits and lively acidity. It is light and Global Wines 2016 Grilos Branco (Dão). This 88 do Larinho (Douro). The Códega de Larinho bright, with a touch of Douro minerality to lift the 87 attractive blend showcases Encruzado and grape produces a crisp style of wine that shows up texture. Drink now. Luiz’s Grocery and Liquors. Cerceal. A perfumed wine, it offers a light honeyed well in the warm conditions of the region. With its —R.V. character as well as clean green fruits and citrus delicious fresh character and blend of apple and abv: 13% Price: $NA acidity. The wine is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. grapefruit flavors, this light wine is ready to drink. Best Buy. —R.V. Amara Wines & Spirits. —R.V. Casca Wines 2016 Monte Cascas Colheita abv: 12.5% Price: $7 abv: 12% Price: $18 85 Branco (Douro). The short lees aging has allowed this wine to ripen and fill out. Along with Global Wines 2016 Vinha Maria Premium Wines & Winemakers 2016 Lua Cheia em the citrus acidity, it has plenty of fresh apple fruit 87 (Dão). This is a delicious, fruity blend of 88 Vinhas Velhas (Douro). This is a field blend and a zesty texture. Drink now. Laurel Importers. Encruzado, Malvasia and Bical. Together they give from old white vines. It has a tight, tangy texture —R.V. perfumed crispness, a touch of honey and fragrant to go with its rich fruits. The concentration and abv: 12.5% Price: $13 citrus. The wine is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. intense minerality are part and parcel of the old Best Buy. —R.V. vines and the schist soil. It has a cool feeling, crisp Casca Wines 2016 Bote (Douro). Crisply abv: 12.5% Price: $6 and tight at the end. Drink from 2018. Iberia Wine 84 aromatic, this is a light, bright wine. Citrus & Spirits LLC. —R.V. fruit and a tangy orange and mineral texture create abv: 12.5% Price: $14 a light, bright aftertaste. It is refreshing and ready to BAIRRADA drink. Laurel Importers. —R.V. Quevedo 2016 Oscar’s White (Douro). A ripe, abv: 12% Price: $10 Campolargo 2015 Branco (Bairrada). Two 87 smooth wine made mainly from Viosinho 90 types of wood barrels were used to age this and Gouveio, this is creamy-textured, rich with wine: large chestnut and smaller oak. The wood yellow fruits. It is cut by crisper acidity and a deli- shows although it does not detract from the tightly crisp and aromatic fruitiness of the Bical grape. It is

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 lively at the end with plenty of bright acidity. Drink Luis Duarte 2016 Rapariga da Quinta Col- ity and with a zesty aftertaste. Drink now. American now. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. 89 heita Seleccionada Branco (Tejo). This B.D. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $30 warm, rounded wine is rich in tropical and yellow abv: 12.5% Price: $10 fruits that are cut by intense citrus acidity. Spice Messias 2010 Quinta do Valdoeiro Reserva and juicy green plums give extra interest. This ripe Quinta da Alorna 2016 Verdelho (Tejo). A 90 Colheita Branco (Bairrada). After seven wine will be ready to drink from 2019. Specialty 87 ripe and perfumed wine, this is well struc- years, this wine has developed a pale-gold color. It Cellars. —R.V. tured with a touch of crisp minerality as well as has also lost fruit while gaining an extra richness abv: 14% Price: $16 melon and peach fruits. It is smooth, balanced and and spicy, nutty character that comes with age. The ready to drink. American B.D. Best Buy. —R.V. wine is delicious, smooth, definitely mature but not Casa Cadaval 2015 Vinha Padre Pedro abv: 13% Price: $10 old. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. 88 Reserva Viognier-Arinto (Tejo). This lightly abv: 13.5% Price: $24 wood-aged wine is soft and round in character. It Casa Cadaval 2016 Vinha Padre Pedro Col- has light spice and warm yellow fruits, as well as 86 heita Seleccionada (Tejo). The Verdelho in Campolargo 2015 Verdelho (Bairrada). This sliced apple and acidity to balance the fruitiness. this wine conveys attractive perfumes. Along with 88 is a limited-production, food-friendly wine, Drink now. VOS Selections. —R.V. Arinto, it makes for a crisp, fruity wine with citrus spicy and slightly oxidative. That gives the wine abv: 13% Price: $18 and apple flavors and good acidity at the end. Drink character as well as a toasty edge that contributes now. VOS Selections. —R.V. to its complexity. Drink this wine now. M Imports, Casal da Coelheira 2016 Private Collection abv: 12.5% Price: $13 LLC. —R.V. 88 Verdelho (Tejo). Intensely crisp and per- abv: 11.5% Price: $30 fumed, this is a green-fruit-flavored wine. Its tangy Quinta da Lapa 2016 Selection Branco (Tejo). character is reinforced by a mineral texture. The 86 This soft and smooth wine offers a creamy wine needs another six months, so drink from 2018. texture over youthful acidity. The blend contains LISBOA Select Fine Wine Imports. —R.V. Trincadeira das Pratas as well as Fernão Pires and abv: 13% Price: $20 Arinto, giving a crisp, tangy character that will mel- Casa Santos Lima 2015 Oak Aged 6 Months low into a softer character in a few months. Drink 90 Arinto (Lisboa). The Arinto grape is a Lis- Fiuza 2016 Alvarinho (Tejo). This is a crisp from 2018. D’Ouro Vino Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. boa specialty and this lightly wood-aged wine 88 wine, full of acidity and with an attrac- abv: 13% Price: $10 shows it to great advantage. Plenty of acidity and tive cool character. The citrus and apple flavors a crisp texture are balanced by vanilla and creamy are intense and deliciously refreshing. Drink this Quinta da Ribeirinha 2016 Ardósia Branco apple. This fine wine is ready to drink. Multiple U.S. attractive wine now. Votto Vines Importing. Best 86 (Tejo). A fruity blend of Fernão Pires and importers. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. Arinto, the two most familiar white grapes of the abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 region, this wine is soft and creamy. The acidity and the green fruits are already refreshing. Drink now. Herdade do Rocim 2015 Vale da Mata (Lis- Fiuza 2016 Premium Sauvignon Blanc (Tejo). P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V. 90 boa). The crisp Vital grape, local to the Lis- 88 Tropical fruits are cut with citrus acidity in abv: 13% Price: $13 boa region, is obvious in this light and bright wine. this warm, ripe wine that has rich fruitiness as well It has a wonderful tangy character, with delicious as a crisper texture. The wine is bright while also Wines & Winemakers 2016 Samora Branco acidity. Full of citrus and green plums, it offers a full and rounded in the mouth. Drink now. Gabriella 86 (Tejo). A blend of Fernão Pires and Arinto, bright aftertaste. Drink from 2018. Langdon Shiv- Importers Inc. —R.V. this fruity wine is deliciously refreshing and crisp, erick. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14 with great acidity. It is bright with lemon acidity abv: 12.5% Price: $20 finished with pink grapefruit. Drink now. Wines Quinta da Alorna 2016 Vinho Branco (Tejo). Without Borders. —R.V. DFJ Vinhos 2016 Grand’Arte Chardonnay 88 This blend of Fernão Pires, Arinto, Sauvi- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 88 (Lisboa). Part of a series that showcases gnon Blanc and, unusually, Marsanne is ripe, with major grape varieties, this wine brings out the a deliciously perfumed character. Acidity and bright Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2016 Bridão creamy, green and apple-fruit character of the fruit give crispness that contrasts with the rich tex- 85 Clássico Branco (Tejo). This blend of Fernão Chardonnay. It conveys hints of tropical fruits and a ture. Drink from 2018. American B.D. —R.V. Pires and Arinto offers lime and orange-peel fruiti- ripe apricot flavor. Balanced acidity lifts all this rich abv: 12.5% Price: $13 ness. It is smooth and rounded, with touches of car- fruitiness. Drink from late 2017. Dionysos Imports amel and vanilla to give extra richness. Drink now. Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Wines & Winemakers 2016 Companhia das Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13 88 Lezírias Tyto Alba Vinhas Protegidas (Tejo). abv: 13% Price: $9 This wood-fermented wine is full of ripe yellow fruits that are cut by the acidity. It is dense with Encosta do Sobral 2016 Reserva Branco TEJO spice and a generous texture. The richness is bal- 85 (Tejo). This broad, soft wine has hints of anced by the citrus acidity and the mineral edge. spice as well as ripe apricot flavors. The texture is Casal da Coelheira 2016 Reserva Branco Age the wine for another year and drink from 2018. easy and attractive. Drink now. Sarmento’s Imports. 90 (Tejo). This is a successful blend of Char- Amphora Wine Imports. —R.V. —R.V. donnay and Arinto that blends a creamy texture abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $18 with crisp fruit flavors. Wood aged, the wine has a toasty edge that fills out the fruit and gives spice to Quinta da Alorna 2016 Alvarinho (Tejo). Com- Quinta da Alorna 2016 Sauvignon Blanc the citrus and apple flavors. The wine is still young; 87 ing from the series of single-varietal wines 85 (Tejo). One of the range of single-varietal give it until late 2018. Select Fine Wine Imports. produced by this estate, this wine adds a southern bottlings from this estate, this wine is lightly —R.V. warmth to the crispness and elegant green-fruit fla- herbal, with orange and green-plum flavors. With abv: 13.5% Price: $18 vors of the Alvarinho. It is tangy, hinting at mineral-

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tangy acidity and a ripe character, the wine is ready Cartuxa 2015 Branco Colheita (Alentejo). An this still-young, tangy wine from late 2018. Tambu to drink. American B.D. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 easy focus on fruit and flavor is the key to Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 this ripe wine that is full of creamy apple and peach abv: 13.5% Price: $38 flavors. It is crisp, with plenty of acidity and a deli- Quinta do Casal Branco 2016 Lobo e Falcão cious, fruity aftertaste. Drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. Monte da Ravasqueira 2015 Reserva Branco 85 Branco (Tejo). The perfume of the Moscatel —R.V. 90 (Alentejano). Viognier and Alvarinho are grape shines through this wine that also has Fernão abv: NA Price: $25 not native to the Alentejo but the region’s heat adds Pires and Alvarinho in the blend. Ripe and fruity, warmth and richness. This refreshing wine’s acidity full of apple and melon flavors, the wine is lightly Ribafreixo 2016 Pato Frio Antão Vaz (Alen- and citrus flavors are balanced by the ripe yellow textured and ready to drink. Lionstone Interna- 86 tejo). This lively, fruity wine has soft apple fruit and pineapple. Partially aged in wood, it needs tional. —R.V. flavors and refreshing acidity. A zesty backdrop to a few more months. Drink from 2018. LGL Imports abv: 13% Price: $15 the fruitiness gives a light texture. The wine, which LLC. —R.V. comes from one of the cooler regions of Alentejo, abv: NA Price: $NA Encosta do Sobral 2016 Selection Branco is ready to drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. 84 (Tejo). This bright, tangy wine offers crisp —R.V. Espaço Rural 2016 Dornas Branco (Alente- acidity and plenty of herbal, green fruitiness. It is abv: 12.5% Price: $11 88 jano). This is a ripe, spicy wine with con- light and ready to drink. Sarmento’s Imports. —R.V. centrated white and citrus fruits. It is richly tex- abv: 13% Price: $12 Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2016 Adega tured and tangy, with an intense, crisp aftertaste. 85 de Borba Branco (Alentejo). Crisp, bright The wine will be ready to drink from 2018. Tambu Fiuza 2016 Alon Seasons Collection Blanco C and fruity, this is a refreshing and ripe wine. With Wines. —R.V. 84 Chardonnay (Tejo). This smooth wine with attractive citrus acidity and a bright aftertaste, the abv: 13% Price: $43 a creamy texture also features a light shot of acidity wine is ready to drink. Luiz’s Grocery and Liquors. as well as apple fruits. It is lively, crisp with acidity Best Buy. —R.V. Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2016 Monte at the end and ready to drink. Kosher. Votto Vines abv: 13% Price: $8 88 da Peceguina Branco (Alentejano). Pure Importing. Best Buy. —R.V. fruit without any wood aging, this is a soft, creamy abv: 12.5% Price: $7 wine. Dominated by Antão Vaz and Arinto, it is full ALENTEJANO of white stone fruits and apples, with just a touch of Quinta da Lapa 2016 Nana Branco (Tejo). apricots to add richness. The wine is ready to drink. 84 This is a simple, soft wine, open and fruity. Luis Duarte 2015 Rubrica Branco (Alente- H2 Vino. —R.V. Muted citrus flavors are highlighted by orange zest 92 jano). A straw-colored wine, this was aged abv: 13% Price: $23 and light acidity. The wine is ready to drink. D’Ouro in wood and is full of spice as well as fruit. Centered Vino Selections. —R.V. on Antão Vaz and Verdelho, it has acidity, apricot Herdade do Rocim 2016 Alvarinho (Alente- abv: 13% Price: $17 and citrus flavors and good acidity. Beautifully 88 jano). When planted south of its home in structured, it’s rich while still firm and restrained. the northern Vinho Verde region, Alvarinho reveals Quinta do Casal Branco 2016 Terra de Lobos Drink from 2018. Specialty Cellars. Editors’ Choice. a softer side. The acidity in this wine is balanced by 84 Branco (Tejo). This young, fruity wine is —R.V. the warm yellow fruits and open texture. Drink from crisp with acidity and light in texture. The wine is abv: 13.5% Price: $23 2018. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. bright and lively, ready to drink for its fruitiness. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2016 Her- abv: 13% Price: $13 91 dade de São Miguel Art.Terra Amphora Branco Herdade do Rocim 2016 Olho de Mocho (Alentejano). Pale gold in color, this was made in 88 Reserva Branco (Alentejano). This rich, clay amphoras, giving a dry wine but one that has wood-aged wine brings out the smooth, creamy ALENTEJO a honeyed edge. It is aromatic, ripe, and spicy, with qualities of the Antão Vaz grape. It is perfumed, an herbal character as well as good finishing acid- lined with lime flavors and a touch of vanilla from Cartuxa 2014 Pêra-Manca Branco (Alentejo). ity. Drink this limited-production wine from 2018. the wood aging. The wine will be ready to drink 95 The 2014 is only the fourth white release Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. from 2018. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. of this iconic label in 12 years, with 2005, 2009 abv: 11.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $32 and 2013 as the most recent . It is impres- sive with structured white fruits and great acidity. Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2015 Maladinha Magnum Vinhos 2016 Flor de Maio Mayflower A touch of minerality in the texture supports the 91 Branco (Alentejano). This oak-aged wine is 87 Branco (Alentejano). The red poppy flowers vanilla and spice flavors. The balance is impeccable rich and intense. It is a ripe blend of Arinto and across the Alentejo in the spring. This wine, with its and elegant, with the potential to age further. Drink Viognier, with a pinch of Chardonnay. Together they lightly perfumed and soft texture, has green plum now; better from 2018. Tri-Vin Imports. Editors’ give the wine its perfumed character, spiced and and spice flavors, gently lifted by balancing acidity. Choice. —R.V. with a beautiful streak of acidity. Although ready It is ready to drink. Sarmento’s Imports. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 to drink, the wine is young and will be better from —R.V. 2018. H2 Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $7 Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2016 Mon- abv: NA Price: $41 89 tes Claros Reserva Branco (Alentejo). This Ribafreixo 2016 Gáudio Verdelho (Alente- fruity, crisp blend of local white grapes offers a Espaço Rural 2016 Poento Reserva Branco 87 jano). This perfumed wine has a delicate touch of vanilla as well as creamy white stone fruits. 90 (Alentejano). This wood-aged wine is apple and pear character enlivened by light spice It is juicy, full of acidity and minerality. Drink this spicy, ripe, packed with rich yellow fruits and fin- and ripe melon. A delicious wine, it would be good wine from 2018. Luiz’s Grocery and Liquors. —R.V. ished with acidity. It is beautifully balanced, the with sushi and fine as an apéritif. Dionysos Imports abv: 13% Price: $16 spice and toast well integrated with the fruit. Drink Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Herdade do Rocim 2016 Alves Vieira Branco level wines from Rocim. An attractive, fruity wine, ity. It is ready to drink. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. 86 (Alentejano). This fruity wine, named after it offers plenty of acidity and citrus flavors. Still —R.V. the family that owns Rocim, has attractive acidity, young and tight, it needs a few more months, so abv: 12% Price: $11 spice and delicious citrus flavors. The aftertaste drink from 2018. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. is tangy and zesty. Drink now. Langdon Shiverick. abv: 12% Price: $15 —R.V. SPARKLING WINES abv: NA Price: $12 Casca Wines 2016 Monte Cascas Colheita 84 Branco (Alentejano). This wine that Messias 2013 Grande Cuvée Brut Millésime Herdade do Rocim 2016 White (Alentejano). includes 65% Antão Vaz conjures up a warm, ripe 88 (Bairrada). Crisp and fruity, this is a bright 86 This simple wine is all about crisp citrus character from the Alentejo. With its yellow fruits from a region which specializes and apple fruits that keep it bright and lively. It and almond flavors, it’s soft although finished with in this style. The Bical and Baga grapes allow the offers a tight texture and good fruitiness at the end. some attractive acidity. Drink now. Laurel Import- wine to sing with perfumed apples and citrus fruits. Drink now. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. ers. —R.V. Chardonnay adds a fuller side. Drink now. LGL abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $13 Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16 Monte da Ravasqueira 2016 Fonte da Ser- Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2016 Art. 86 rana Branco (Alentejano). Antão Vaz and 82 Terra Curtimenta (Alentejano). This wine is Fiuza NV 3 Castas Nature (Tejo). The Vital Arinto, two classic white varieties of Alentejo, are fat and slightly oxidative. Bitter-orange flavors and 85 grape in the blend gives crisp acidity to this blended into this simple, fruity wine. Its acidity acidity give the wine a tight aftertaste. Quintessen- soft wine. Light and lively, it’s packed with fruit and citrus fruitiness have been given weight by lees tial Wines. —R.V. and has a bright aftertaste. Drink now. Votto Vines stirring. The wine is crisp and lively, ready to drink abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Importing. —R.V. now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 10.5% Price: $11 abv: 12.5% Price: $9 OTHER WHITE WINES Monte da Ravasqueira 2016 Guarda Rios SWEET WINES 86 Branco (Alentejano). Named after the king- Adega Mãe 2015 2 2 1 Alvarinho (Portuguese fisher bird, this wine has a warm, yellow-fruit and 91 ). Anselmo Mendes from granite Real Companhia Velha 2013 Grandjó Late ripe character. It is perfumed, with a full texture Vinho Verde and Diogo Lopes from clay-soil Lisboa 92 (Douro). Sémillon weaves its magic and the richness that comes from aging on the lees. brought together the fruit of their harvests to make as a grape that attracts . This wine that Drink this ripe wine now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. one limited-edition Alvarinho wine. The result: a comes from some of the higher-elevation Douro abv: NA Price: $9 ripe, warm and creamy character with wonderful vineyards is rich with honey, dried apricot and fresh acidity. Drink this refreshing, ripe wine now. intense acidity. The classic dry edge of the botrytis Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2016 Brado Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. is very evident in this ripe, ready-to-drink wine. 85 Branco (Alentejano). The very local Tamarez abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. grapes make an appearance in this lemon-colored abv: NA Price: $35/375 ml and flavored wine. It is fruity, soft and bright with Rui Roboredo Madeira 2016 Beyra Branco acidity. Drink now. Luiz’s Grocery and Liquors. Best 88 (Beira Interior). This soft wine is a blend of Global Wines 2012 Outono de Santar (Dão). Buy. —R.V. two local white grapes: Síria and Fonte Cal. Intense 90 This late-harvest wine has hints of hon- abv: 13% Price: $6 acidity and a cool-climate feel from the high- eyed botrytis as well as apricot fruitiness, though it altitude vineyards make this crisp, with grapefruit is far from cloyingly sweet. The texture is soft and Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2016 Convento and lemon flavors. Drink now. MS Walker. Best Buy. mature, with good integration of the fruit and the 85 da Vila (Alentejano). This is a soft, fruity —R.V. botrytis character. Try it now with cheese or foie blend of Roupeiro, Rabo de Ovelha and Fernão Pires. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 gras. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. It is ripe, full of apple and crisp green fruits, shot abv: 13% Price: $16/375 ml through with acidity. Drink now. Luiz’s Grocery and Casca Wines 2016 Cabo da Roca Reserva Liquors. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 (Bucelas). Six months in wood have abv: 13% Price: $7 changed the naturally crisp character of the Arinto PORTUGAL grape for something altogether much richer. It offers Adega Cooperativa de Borba 2016 Senses spice as well as ripe red apples and peppered pears. ROSÉS 85 Viognier (Alentejano). This wine is soft and Drink now. Laurel Importers. —R.V. creamy, with the apricot flavor that is characteristic abv: 12.5% Price: $20 DOURO of Viognier. It is a ripe wine, although with a light and spicy aftertaste. Drink now. Luiz’s Grocery and Rui Roboredo Madeira 2016 Beyra Reserva Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Liquors. —R.V. 88 Quartz (Beira Interior). This ripe wine is all 87 2016 Rosé (Douro). This full-bodied wine abv: 12.5% Price: $13 about apple and grapefruit fruitiness, with a cool conveys Douro warmth. A light touch of tannin tang balancing the richness. The aftertaste brings in gives it shape. Pepper and red-berry fruits complete Espaço Rural 2016 Bojador Branco (Alente- spice and crisp, tight, mineral acidity. Drink from a generous wine that will be best with food. Drink 85 jano). This perfumed wine is softly textured 2018. MS Walker. —R.V. now. VOS Selections. —R.V. and lightly honeyed. It is ripe and smooth, with a abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 creamy texture. Acidity and grapefruit flavors come through easily at the end. Drink now. Tambu Wines. Wines & Winemakers 2016 Dona Helena Secret Spot Wines 2016 Vale da Poupa Rosé —R.V. 84 Coheita (Península de Setúbal). Moscatel in 87 (Douro). This ripe, full-bodied rosé is made abv: 12.5% Price: $16 the blend of this wine gives it a perfumed character. from 100% rich, perfumed Touriga Nacional. Good The wine is soft, gently ripe and with pleasing acid- balance between ripe strawberry fruits and the Herdade do Rocim 2016 Mariana Branco 85 (Alentejano). This is one in a range of entry-

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crisp acidity make it both fruity and warm. Drink smooth. It is rounded with an almost-sweet fruiti- crisp acidity are light and ready to drink. Langdon now. Vintage Wine Marketing. Best Buy. —R.V. ness. Drink now. VOS Selections. —R.V. Shiverick. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $22

Quevedo 2016 Oscar’s Rosé (Douro). This Herdade do Rocim 2016 Mariana Rosé (Alen- 86 fruity rosé is rich with perfumed Touriga PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL 84 tejano). This wine is very soft ,with only Nacional. It gives a ripe strawberry-flavored wine, light acidity to balance the raspberry fruitiness. full of fruit and with a layer of attractive acidity. Wines & Winemakers 2016 Monte de Baía What makes this wine is its aftertaste with a final It is a wine that is best with food. Drink now. P.R. 86 Rosé (Península de Setúbal). A crisp, cara- crisp bite. Drink now. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V. Grisley Company. —R.V. mel- and red-fruit-flavored blend of Castelão, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Touriga Nacional and Syrah, this is ready to drink. Produced at Casa Ermelinda Freitas winery, it has Monte da Ravasqueira 2016 Rosé (Alente- Rui Roboredo Madeira 2016 Vinha da Urze a salty edge from the nearby ocean, finishing with 84 jano). This is a lightly off-dry rosé, with a 86 Rosé (Douro). Produced from 100% Touriga plenty of acidity. Wines Without Borders. —R.V. soft texture and strawberry flavors. The wine is easy Nacional, this is a crisp, dry wine, full of red-cur- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 to drink now, bright with acidity and smoothly fin- rant fruits and with a tang of citrus. This attrac- ished. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. tive wine is ready to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Wines & Winemakers 2016 Azul Portugal abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Import. Best Buy. —R.V. 85 Rosé (Península de Setúbal). Made from abv: 12.5% Price: $11 100% Castelâo, the local grape of Setúbal, this wine is attractively fruity, with a crisp texture. Warmer, OTHER ROSÉS Casca Wines 2016 Monte Cascas Colheita ripe red-berry fruits contrast with the acidity, leav- 85 Rosé (Douro). A crisp and fruity blend of ing a balanced wine that is ready to drink. Iberia Global Wines 2016 Cabriz Rosé Colheita Douro grapes, this is packed with raspberry fruiti- Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. 86 Seleccionada Rosé (Dão). This ripe, fruity ness, offering delicious acidity at the end. The wine abv: 12.5% Price: $11 blend of Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro is zesty is dry and ready to drink. Laurel Importers. —R.V. and lightly spicy, with a warm, ripe character. The abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Wines & Winemakers 2016 Monte de Baía strawberry fruit is laced with acidity, allowing the 84 Rosé (Península de Setúbal). An intensely smooth texture to shine. Drink now. Best Beverage Wines & Winemakers 2016 Lua Cheia em orange-pink-colored wine, this is a blend of the Corporation. —R.V. 84 Vinhas Velhas Rosé (Douro). Produced from local Castelão with Touriga Nacional and Syrah. Its abv: 12.5% Price: $9 old vines, this is a crisp, bright wine. Its caramel acidity is filled out with ripe red-berry fruits and a and perfumes give it an exotic edge while acid- smooth texture of vanilla. The wine is soft and ready Casa de Vilacetinho 2016 Escolha Rosé ity keeps everything lively. It is ready to drink. to drink. Wine Without Borders. —R.V. 84 (Vinho Verde). This sweet rosé is light and Amphora Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 crisply fruity. Strawberry flavors make it an imme- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 diately refreshing and enjoyable apéritif wine. Santa Maria Imports. —R.V. ALENTEJANO abv: 12.5% Price: $10 TEJO Luis Duarte 2016 Rapariga da Quinta Col- Casa de Vila Verde 2016 Pluma Rosé (Vinho Quinta da Ribeirinha 2016 Ardósia Rosado 88 heita Seleccionada Rosé (Alentejano). Made 83 Verde). This is an off-dry, lightlypétillant 86 Rosado (Tejo). A crisp, fruity blend of from the Moreto grape, this light and fruity wine is wine, with strawberry fruits and light acidity. Drink Touriga Nacional and Aragonez, this wine is bright a perfect summer rosé. It is crisp with red currant immediately. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. and light. Its refreshing acidity and red-currant and raspberry fruits, with a delicious layer of acid- abv: 10.5% Price: $15 fruits are delicious to drink now. P.R. Grisley Com- ity. Drink now. Specialty Cellars. —R.V. pany. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $13 SPARKLING ROSÉS Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2016 Monte Wines & Winemakers 2016 Samora Rosé 87 da Peceguina Rosé (Alentejano). The ripe, Herdade do Rocim 2014 Brut Nature Rosé 85 (Tejo). A light, crisp blend of Merlot and spicy strawberry and orange fruitiness of this wine 86 (Alentejano). This is a rounded wine, with Syrah, this is soft and gently fruity. Raspberry and is immediately attractive. It has lively acidity within soft tannins and a crisp aftertaste. Red fruits mingle red-currant flavors shine easily through this simple a rich framework. Drink this refreshing wine now. with a yeasty character to give a wine that is warm, wine. Wine Without Borders. —R.V. H2 Vino. —R.V. smooth and soft at the end. Drink now. Langdon abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Shiverick. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Quinta da Lapa 2016 Nana Rosé (Tejo). A Ciconia 2016 Ciconia Rosé (Alentejano). 84 simple, fruity and caramel-flavored blend 85 A blend of Aragonez, Syrah and Touriga Fiuza NV 3 Castas Nature Rosé (Tejo). A of Touriga Nacional and Aragonez, this is soft and Nacional, this is a crisp wine, full of raspberry fruits 85 soft, off-dry rosé, this is a blend of Touriga smooth. Just enough acidity keeps it clean and and a soft texture. It is attractive with its balance of Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is gently fruity, crisp. D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. acidity and fruit, and is very ready to drink. Tri-Vin with balanced acidity and a clean, bright aftertaste. abv: 13% Price: $17 Imports. —R.V. Drink now. Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 11.5% Price: $11 Casa Cadaval 2016 Vinha Padre Pedro Rosé 83 (Tejo). This ripe, strawberry-flavored blend Herdade do Rocim 2016 Olho de Mocho Rosé of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Merlot is soft and 85 (Alentejano). A bright and fruity wine made from a blend of Touriga Nacional and Syrah, this is deliciously refreshing. Its red currant fruits and

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2015 Arrêt Buf- once used to ship wine on the Loire River to Paris LOIRE VALLEY 91 fatte (Pouilly-Fumé). Tightly wrought and is the inspiration for this wine. It is a blend of the still young, this is a concentrated wine. It has great various soils and vineyards in the river’s right-bank WHITE WINES fruitiness that is tangy with a strong mineral texture appellation. With bright acidity and a flinty texture, from the silex soil. Green asparagus and lemon fruits the wine still needs to age. Drink from 2018. Bridge POUILLY-FUMÉ are combined. Drink this complex wine from 2019. Imports. —R.V. Maverick Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Michel Redde et Fils 2015 La Moynerie abv: 12.5% Price: $22 93 (Pouilly-Fumé). This is a rich rounded wine Fournier Père et Fils 2016 Les Deux Cailloux that comes from the home estate of Michel Redde. Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2015 Genetin 89 (Pouilly-Fumé). The producer, although The wood aging shows through in the toasty char- 91 (Pouilly-Fumé).­ This beautifully balanced based in Sancerre, has vines across the Loire in acter while there is also a smooth vanilla character. wine has a fine texture of steely acidity and ripe fruit Pouilly. This wine, which is young and still develop- Ripe yellow fruits give this wine its intensity. The tones. Like many Pouilly-Fumé wines, it needs time ing, is in the ripe fat style typical of the appellation. wine is ready to drink. Kobrand. —R.V. to mature further to bring out the great fruit and the It has concentrated apple and green-plum flavors, abv: 13.5% Price: $30 fine structure that will make this an impressive wine. shot through with acidity. Drink from 2018. David Drink from 2018 DHI Selections. —R.V. Milligan Selections. —R.V. Domaine Chatelain 2015 Les Vignes de Saint- abv: 12.5% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $27 92 Laurent l’Abbaye (Pouilly-Fumé). Originally planted by monks in the 12th century, this vineyard Fournier Père et Fils 2014 Grand Fumé (Pouilly­ Villebois 2016 Pouilly-Fumé. With weight has produced an intensely herbaceous wine. Steely 91 Fumé). This is the top cuvée produced from 89 and concentration, this is a finely perfumed and crisp with grapefruit and gooseberry flavors, the Fournier’s Pouilly-Fumé vines. It is rich while wine. It has acidity and a tight texture that suggests the wine’s texture brings out the chalky soil. Still crisp, showing fine acidity and a mineral texture. The the wine will age well. Certainly with its youthful young, it will be better from 2018. BNP Distribut- green fruits cut through the zesty texture of the wine acidity and closed up character, it shouldn’t be drunk ing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. giving concentration and depth of flavor. Drink this yet. Wait until 2018. House of Burgundy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22 serious wine now. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Domaine Chatelain 2015 Prestige (Pouilly-­ Domaine Chauveau 2015 La Charmette 92 Fumé). From old vines and only produced in Jean-Max Roger 2015 Cuvée les Alouettes 88 (Pouilly-Fumé). This is an attractive fruity top vintages, this ripe perfumed wine is impressive. 91 (Pouilly-Fumé). Like most Sancerre produc- wine, crisp with acidity and refreshing with lime Rich with tropical fruits, layers of vanilla and acid- ers, Roger also draws on vines across the Loire in and lemon flavors. Its brightness is balanced by a ity, it is full, up-front and packed with concentrated Pouilly-Fumé. This ripe full wine shows the rich- steely texture from the chalk soil of the vineyard. flavors and textures. Like many wines from this ness of this appellation and also its potential for The wine does need to soften, so drink from 2018. appellation, it can age and will be better from 2019. aging. Its lime and green-plum fruits are shot Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. through with acidity and balanced by a tangy rich abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $23 texture. Drink from 2018. Massanois Imports. Edi- tors’ Choice. —R.V. Domaine de Bel Air 2016 Pouilly-Fumé. Patrice Moreux 2015 La Loge aux Moines abv: 12.5% Price: $26 88 This wine has richness and fine potential. 92 (Pouilly-Fumé). From one of the top vine- With its crisp steely texture it expresses the chalk yard sectors of Pouilly-Fumé, the wine is rich, full Patrice Moreux 2015 Corty Artisan Caillottes and flint soil of the vineyard. At the same time, the and complex. Spice and vanilla are contrasted with 91 (Pouilly-Fumé). This is a ripe and fat wine. young citrus fruit is still developing and the wine the intense acidity and steely white-fruit and citrus That combination gives it a rich character and a will be better from 2018. Wine Traditions. —R.V. flavors. It is still young with its fruitiness bursting full-bodied texture. The spice and the yellow fruits abv: 13% Price: $24 out of the glass. Wait until 2018. Imported Heritage. enhance the concentration and the generosity of this Editors’ Choice. —R.V. rounded wine. Drink now. Imported Heritage. —R.V. Domaine Chatelain 2015 Vincent Vatan Sélec- abv: 13% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $25 87 tion Silex (Pouilly-Fumé). The wine comes from silex soil around the small village of Saint- Château de Tracy 2015 Pouilly-Fumé. The Bouchié-Chatellier 2015 La Renardière Andelain. Crisply textured, it has vanilla and spice 91 wine comes from an aristocratic estate that 90 (Pouilly-Fumé). This is a perfumed crisp flavors to fill out the intense acidity. The aftertaste, dates back to 1396. The wine is always impres- wine, attractively fruity and with delicious acidity. still young, brings in a steely tight texture. Drink sive—rich, herbal and needing to age. It has ripe Its fruit is effusive and needs to calm down and fill from 2018. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. white and green fruit, a generous texture and a full- out, so just wait until 2018 for it richness to be fully abv: 13% Price: $22 bodied density. Drink this wine from 2019. Martin apparent. Misa Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Scott Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Jean-Pierre Bailly 2015 Pouilly-Fumé. The abv: 13% Price: $35 87 wine’s ripe fruit is balanced by a crisp tex- Joseph Mellot 2015 Grande Cuvée des Edvins ture. Apple and citrus are well to the fore, bringing Château Favray 2015 Pouilly-Fumé. The wine 90 (Pouilly-Fumé). Pouilly-Fumé is often the out the acidity. That contrasts with the steely texture 91 is ripe, dense and with fine layers of green source of wines for the Sancerre producers. This that will allow this young wine to age for another fruits, grapefruit and acidity. The flinty texture is wine is ripe, full in the mouth with its yellow fruits. year. Drink from 2018. The Artisan Collection. —R.V. still strong in this young wine which bursts with There is a spicy character from the oak aging. The abv: 12.5% Price: $25 youthful fruitiness. It is going to develop well into wine could age a little longer so drink from 2018. an impressive wine. Drink from late 2018. Fruit of Jerome Selection. —R.V. the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 SANCERRE abv: 13% Price: $22 Domaine Landrat-Guyollot 2015 La Ram- Alphonse Mellot 2014 Edmond (Sancerre). 89 barde (Pouilly-Fumé). The flat-bottom boat 95 This is a classic of Sancerre—enormously

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rich, packed with fruit and a touch of vanilla. It is fruit. Drink this still-young wine, with its wood- Joseph Mellot 2014 Cuvée Pierre Etienne the fruit, though, that sings in this beautiful wine. aging flavors from 2019. Chambers & Chambers. 93 (Sancerre). This is a wood-aged wine, Mango and peach blend with the crispest citrus Cellar Selection. —R.V. named after the founder of the Mellot dynasty in flavors. The wine demands aging and is still young. abv: 14% Price: $60 the 16th century. It is richly endowed, packed with Drink from late 2018. Elite Wines Import. Cellar fine white fruit that contrasts with the stony steely Selection. —R.V. Henri Bourgeois 2014 Etienne Henri texture. There is a great tang of acidity and orange abv: 13% Price: $75 94 (Sancerre). Named after an ancestor who zest at the end. The wine is still young and will pioneered using oak barrels for maturing Sauvignon repay cellaring until 2018. Jerome Selection. Cellar Daniel Chotard 2015 Les Cris (Sancerre). Blanc, the wine is, of course, wood aged. It is also Selection. —R.V. 94 This is a limited production wine from ripe with yellow fruits, spice and vanilla. Apricot is abv: 12.5% Price: $90 small parcels of limestone soil. Aged in acacia bar- cut with more tangy orange zest and finished with rels, it has subtle spice and toast flavors. They wood acidity. This is a concentrated wine that is just Michel Vattan 2015 Les L-O (Sancerre). From aging has had the effect of broadening the wine and ready to drink. Chambers & Chambers. —R.V. 93 a number of old-vine parcels, designated in giving it extra richness. It’s an impressive wine, abv: 13.5% Price: $65 the past as L-O and only produced in the best years, ready to drink from 2018. Kermit Lynch Wine Mer- this wine is beautifully ripe with great layers of rich chant. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Alphonse Mellot 2014 Génération Dix-Neuf apple and pear fruits. They are cut with zesty acid- abv: 13% Price: $39 93 (Sancerre). There have been 19 (dix-neuf) ity and a more mineral aspect. The wine still needs generations of Mellots making wine in Sancerre; at to age further, so drink from 2019. DB Wine Selec- Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2015 Pur Jus least one of them in each generation has been named tion. —R.V. 94 (Sancerre). This wine has no added sulfur, Alphonse. This wine celebrates the history and the abv: 13.5% Price: $34 giving crisp, clear and clean fruitiness. It also adds great quality of the family’s wines today. It is richly an light touch of oxidation that broadens the wine endowed with both the beautifully ripe fruit and Pierre Morin 2015 Ovide (Sancerre). The and makes the white stone fruit richer. Drink this with a sophisticated acidity and texture. Drink this 93 wine is named after the neighbor who sold impressively ripe wine from 2018. Diva Wine USA. very fine wine now, although, like the Mellots, it will this parcel of old vines to the Morin family. A small Editors’ Choice. —R.V. also age. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. amount has been matured in barrels which has abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $75 allowed the wine to gather extra richness. The wine has spice and an opulent texture that is beautifully Domaine Laporte 2016 Le Rochoy (Sancerre). Alphonse Mellot 2014 Les Herses (Sancerre). balanced by the acidity. Drink this wine from 2018. 94 From a sloping flinty vineyard, this is an 93 From a single vineyard on flinty silex soil, Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. impressive wine. It is powered by its tight tense this is a taut and concentrated wine. Its intensity is abv: 13% Price: $31 texture to give a concentrated essence of Sauvignon enhanced by the tense texture and powerful youth- Blanc. The wine, with its green and citrus fruits, is ful acidity. At this stage, it is still young, still with Domaine Fouassier 2015 Clos Paradis tangy, steely and needing to age. Drink from 2019. its exuberant fruit. So wait to drink this wine until 92 (Sancerre). Vines up to 40-years-old are Martine’s Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 2018. Elite Wines Import. —R.V. growing on this 13-acre parcel. The wine is lighter abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $57 than some in this producer’s range. At the same time, it is also more mineral and more textured, Domaine Vacheron 2015 Guigne-Chèvres Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2015 La giving a tight steely wine that will need some time. 94 (Sancerre). This is one of the several lim- 93 Baronne (Sancerre). Produced from the old- So drink this wine from 2019. Opici Wines. Cellar ited-production wines from this great producer. It est vines of the Domaine, the wine is taut while also Selection. —R.V. shows great intensity and a tangy balance between ripe. It has a crisp edge along with hints of the year’s abv: 12.5% Price: $30 the yellow and pineapple fruits and a tight mineral wood aging. That adds spice and a peppery edge to texture. It is certainly rich but so well balanced that the ripe yellow and golden-plum flavors. Drink from Domaine Fouassier 2015 Le Clos de Bannon its concentration is just right. Drink from 2019. early 2018. Diva Wine USA. —R.V. 92 (Sancerre). Like all wines from this pro- European Cellars. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40 ducer, the fruit from this five-acre vineyard has abv: 13% Price: $65 been grown biodynamically. That explains both the Domaine Roger & Christophe Moreux 2015 clean lines of the wine and its beautiful ripe fruiti- Domaine Vacheron 2015 Le Paradis 93 Les Monts Damnés (Sancerre). This is a ness. The yellow fruits and generous texture are 94 (Sancerre). Produced from biodynamically tropical-fruit-flavored wine with only a hint of deliciously full in the mouth. Drink this fine wine grown grapes, the wine was aged in wooden vats to more herbal flavors. It is ripe and juicy with sweep- from 2018. Opici Wines. —R.V. promote the oxygenation and richness of the already ing fruitiness as well as acidity. The texture, mineral abv: 13.5% Price: $33 ripe fruits. The result is a serious wine, one with in character, comes from the chalk of the vineyard— intense fruit and with a broad swathe of ripe white one of the top sites in Sancerre. Drink this beautiful Domaine Fouassier 2015 Les Romains stone fruits and mineral texture. The wine is power- wine from 2018. Michael Corso Selections. Editors’ 92 (Sancerre). Produced from biodynamically ful, finishing with a touch of pepper as well as great Choice. —R.V. grown grapes, the wine honors the fact that the fruit. Drink from 2018. European Cellars. Editors’ abv: 13% Price: $35 Romans got here 2,000 years ago. It has intense Choice. —R.V. fruit, yellow and whites stone-fruit flavors and just abv: 13% Price: $65 Domaine Vacheron 2015 Chambrates the right bright acidity to go with all this opulence. 93 (Sancerre). Matured in large wooden vats, The aftertaste brings in spice and vanilla that add Henri Bourgeois 2015 Sancerre d’Antan Ter- this is a wine that is so ripe and rich. With great complexity. Drink the wine from 2018. Opici Wines. 94 roir de Silex (Sancerre). The wine’s name fruit allied to an opulent texture, it is both spicy and —R.V. means Sancerre from the old days, or made in a full of tropical fruit flavors. At the moment, it is just abv: 13.5% Price: $35 traditional way. Certainly if that way was to make bursting with fruit and will need time to calm down, a superb rich wine with great fruit, then this suc- so wait to drink until 2019. European Cellars. —R.V. Domaine Laporte 2015 Le Grand Rochoy ceeds. It comes from flint soil and that’s discernible abv: 13% Price: $65 92 (Sancerre). This is still a young wine. It has in the steely edge that gives a contrast to the ripe a serious tight mineral texture and intense acidity.

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 There is a strong spicy element and a richness that the typical minerality of this vineyard, giving a wine texture and the dense fruit flavors offer a deli- comes straight from the deep soil of the vineyard. that always needs to age. Its tight tangy orange-zest cious take on Sauvignon Blanc, giving complexity This important wine needs to age, so drink from flavors are concentrated and reinforce the need to age and ripeness. Drink this wine from 2018. Martine’s 2019. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. the wine. Drink from 2019. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: NA Price: $27 abv: 13% Price: $25

Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2015 Saget la Perrière 2015 Domaine de Terres Gitton Père et Fils 2015 Les Montachins 92 Ammonites (Sancerre). This is a textured 92 Blanches Chêne Marchand (Sancerre). From 91 (Sancerre). Ostentatiously ripe, this full- wine with strong minerality as well as ripe white one of the top vineyard sites in Sancerre, this fine bodied wine hardly hides its richness. It’s gener- stone fruits. It is still young, full of life as well as wine is ripe, herby and intense. It has concentrated ous and packed with fruitiness. The acidity and the intense fruitiness. The herbal hint at the end will white fruits, citrus and green herbs. There is a dis- tighter texture are backdrops to this great burst of integrate as this fine wine ages further. Drink from tinct tangy minerality that will soften over the next fruit. Drink now. Wine Source International. Editors’ 2018. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. few months. Drink from early 2018. Yountville Wine Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40 Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $55 Domaine Vacheron 2015 Les Romains Paul Prieur et Fils 2015 Monts Damnés 92 (Sancerre). This wood-aged wine is rich Vincent Grall 2015 Sancerre. This is an 91 (Sancerre). The wine comes from one of the and full. Its intense fruits are balanced by subtle 92 impressive rich wine. Layers of warm yellow most famous vineyard sites in Sancerre, a steep wood flavors and a tight texture. Named after and white stone-fruit flavors are cut by steely acid- slope above the village of Chavignol. It is mineral the Romans who were the first to plant vines in ity and a fine herbal lift. The wine is tangy and ripe textured, tight and taut—wine that suggests it Sancerre, this is a concentrated wine that will while also crisp. The aftertaste is packed with deli- needs to age. The fruit is all there with crisp cit- repay some aging. Drink from 2019. European Cel- cious juicy fruit. Matinicus Wines, LLC. Editors’ rus and a tangy aftertaste. Drink from 2019. Russell lars. —R.V. Choice. —R.V. Herman Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $65 abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 13% Price: $40

Domaine Vacheron 2015 Sancerre. The bio­ Alphonse Mellot 2016 La Moussière Pierre Morin 2015 Le Chant de l’Orme 92 dynamically grown fruit that has gone into 91 (Sancerre). This is one of the entry-level 91 (Sancerre). The song of the elm is the poetic this ripe impressive wine has given great richness. ranges from this top producer. The wine is sophis- name of this wine. It is a rich wine, dense with It is structured while full of yellow fruit and an opu- ticated. It has a strong mineral texture and fine fruit and with some toast from the wood aging. It is lent character. The wine is still young, still full of ripe citrus and pear fruits shot through with acid- impressive with its ripe swathes of fruit and its spicy baby fruit and will be superb from 2018. European ity. With its finishing fruitiness, this is already aftertaste. The wine is just ready to drink although it Cellars. —R.V. an attractive wine, although it will be better from will be better from 2018. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 2018. Elite Wines Import. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $31 abv: 13% Price: $34 Fournier Père et Fils 2015 Cuvée Silex Pierre Morin 2015 Vieilles Vignes (Sancerre). 92 (Sancerre). This comes from a six-acre vine- Daniel Chotard 2014 Cuvée Marcel Henri 91 From old vines grown on two different types yard of 30-year-old vines. It is steely and taut with 91 (Sancerre). Old vines are the source of this of chalk soil, this wine is intense and rich. It has an almost flinty character. As a contrast, the young ripe tropical-fruit-flavored wine. It is concentrated ripe apple and pear fruitiness which is balanced fruit is crisp, full of citrus and green plum fruits. It and dense with a flinty texture that is taut and by the tangy acidity. The natural concentration is a ripe wine that has a few more months to be at nervy. There is a crisp aftertaste that gives the wine from low- old vines adds to the density of the its best. Wait until 2018. David Milligan Selections. its delicious lift. Drink the wine now. Kermit Lynch wine. Drink from 2018. Weygandt-Metzler. Editors’ —R.V. Wine Merchant. —R.V. Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $38 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $25

Jean-Paul Picard 2015 Cuvée Prestige Domaine Benoît & Mathieu Fleuriet 2015 Saget la Perrière 2015 Domaine de Terres 92 (Sancerre). This impressive and ripe wine 91 ­Renaissance Les Grandes Marnes (Sancerre). 91 Blanches Bellechaume (Sancerre). An intense comes from a warm vintage. It has mango as well This rich wine is concentrated and full of fruit. That wine, this is all crisp green herbs and tight citrus as apricot fruits, giving a rich generous character. is balanced by the mineral texture that gives the flavors. With acidity and minerality, it is a complex The acidity provides just the right tang at the end to wine its depth and intensity. With a touch of nut- wine from vineyards in Bué. It could age for another bring out the minerality that lies at the back of this meg and with fruitiness that is still young, the wine few months and will be better from 2018. Yountville fine wine. Drink now. VOS Selections. —R.V. needs to age. Drink from 2018. Vinifrance. —R.V. Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $31 abv: 13% Price: $33 abv: 13% Price: $55

Joseph Mellot 2015 L’Original (Sancerre). Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2015 Côte Bernard Reverdy et Fils 2015 Sancerre. This 92 One of the wines produced to celebrate the 91 de Marloup (Sancerre). From a south-facing 90 wine is fruity and crisp. It is also full of ripe family’s 500-year history, this is intensely herbal, steep slope, this wine is ripe while beautifully bal- apple and rich pear fruits that give density and fine with taut and highly textured minerality. It tastes anced between crisp acidity, apples and pears. The concentration to this delicious impressive wine. The of the chalk soil with its zesty flavor, bursting out steely texture and mineral edge give the wine added acidity adds brightness while the minerality comes of the glass. Drink this still young wine from 2018. complexity. It’s a fine wine, best after another six from the taut steely texture. Drink this wine now. Jerome Selection. —R.V. months in early 2018. Diva Wine USA. —R.V. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $80 abv: 12.5% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $50

Pierre Morin 2015 Chêne Marchand Domaine Laporte 2016 La Terre des Anges Daniel Chotard 2015 Sancerre. This is the 92 (Sancerre). This wine is from one of the top 91 (Sancerre). Rich, full of citrus and ripe apple 90 entry-level wine from this fine producer. vineyard sites in the village of Bué. It is tense with flavors, this is a sophisticated wine. The mineral It is soft, laced with acidity and grapefruit. Sliced

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apples add a further texture and bring out the steely vanilla as well as mango and warm apple flavors. It (Sancerre). This is a delicious and textured wine. edge of the wine. It has ripe fruit and a tangy after- comes from vines grown on flinty soils, but there is It has great swathes of crisp citrus and gooseberry taste. It’s ready to drink now. Kermit Lynch Wine little sign of that in the generous full texture. Drink fruits that are bright and still young. Drink this Merchant. —R.V. this ripe wine now. Wine Source International. steely flinty wine from 2018. Vinifrance. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28 —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Domaine Girard 2016 Philippe Girard Cuvée Domaine de Rome 2015 Sancerre. The wine 90 Silex (Sancerre). The flinty silex soil is Gitton Père et Fils 2015 Les Romains 89 is full of fruit that’s soft and smooth. It has a reflected in the steely flinty texture of this wine. 90 (Sancerre). Large barrels were used for broad ripe texture that is subtly contrasted with the It lies under the crisp and nervy white and citrus aging this superrich wine. That gives it a round acidity and more zesty character. The wine is refresh- fruits. The result is a wine that is under tension, character as well as generous fruitiness. Soft, full ing and fruity and ready to drink. DB Wine Selection. still young and needing time to open up with its full of tropical fruits and with a slight and attractive —R.V. potential. Drink from late 2018. Milton’s Distribut- oxidative character, it is beautifully ready to drink. abv: 13% Price: $20 ing Co., Inc. —R.V. Connoisseur Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $30 Domaine Laporte 2016 Les Grandmontains 89 (Sancerre). A new cuvée from this producer, Domaine Laporte 2015 La Comtesse Henri Bourgeois 2015 La Chapelle des Augus- it is brightly fruity and with fine tight acidity. There 90 (Sancerre). Hugely rich and in a seriously 90 tins (Sancerre). This is an intensely herbal is an earthy edge that gives it a funky character lifted heavy bottle, this is a statement wine. Its texture is wine. Its high alcohol doesn’t take away from its by the freshness and crisp texture. Drink this lively there, surrounded by superripe fruit and touches of green fruit, gooseberry and cool taste. Perhaps it fruity wine from early 2018. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. pepper from the alcohol. This almost tropical-fruit does increase the intensity of all these elements, abv: 13% Price: $25 wine needs to age a little longer, so drink from 2018. producing a wine that is both rich and also taut and Martine’s Wines. —R.V. mineral. It does seem to need more aging, so drink Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2015 Orig- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 from 2018. Chambers & Chambers. —R.V. 89 ine (Sancerre). This is the entry-level wine abv: 14.5% Price: $35 from this producer. Following the vintage, it is rich, Domaine Philippe Raimbault 2015 Apud juicy with white fruits as well as citrus and already 90 Sariacum (Sancerre). One of the numer- Jean-Max Roger 2015 Cuvée Marnes et Cail- refreshing. There is an attractive bite of minerality ous Raimbault family winemakers, Philippe has 90 lottes (Sancerre). This is a very fine ripe at the end. Drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. produced a ripe and generous wine. With its tangy wine. It has a steely character that comes from the abv: 12.5% Price: $30 edge, coming from the chalk soil, it does have a tex- limestone, clay and stony soil. Along with a pure tured side but that is filled out by the rich fruit with line of acidity and green herb flavors, the white Gitton Père et Fils 2015 En Creux (Sancerre). its yellow fruit flavors. The wine is ready to drink. fruits have found their tangy place. Drink this deli- 89 This single-vineyard wine has benefited from T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. cious wine from 2018. Massanois Imports. —R.V. the warmth of 2015. It is rich, full bodied and veering abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $28 towards tropical fruits. There is a contrast with the steely texture that keeps crispness in the wine. It is Domaine Roger & Christophe Moreux 2015 Joseph Mellot 2016 Domaine des Emois now balanced and ready to drink. Metropolis Wine 90 Les Bouffants (Sancerre). This is very much 90 (Sancerre). The wine comes from a 14-acre Merchants, Inc. —R.V. in the house style of this producer in this vintage. estate owned by the producer. Its fruitiness and tex- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 It is a ripe wine, orientated towards yellow fruits ture are both important elements in the wine at this with a hint of mango. The acidity is there to bal- young stage. They give a tightly textured wine that Gitton Père et Fils 2015 Les Belles Dames ance what is a rich wine, keeping the structure and is still bright, crisp with lemon fruit and crispened 89 (Sancerre). The wine is ripe and opulent. It shape. Drink this wine from 2018. Michael Corso with considerable acidity. Let the wine soften and has a soft texture that is filled out by the rich peach Selections. —R.V. drink from 2018. Jerome Selection. —R.V. and creamed-pear flavors. With just the right acid- abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $30 ity and flinty texture to balance this fruit, the wine is now ready to drink. Sacred Thirst Selections. Domaine Sautereau 2015 Côte de Reigny Joseph Mellot 2014 La Grande Châtelaine —R.V. 90 (Sancerre). Tang, mineral and a taut steely 90 (Sancerre). The short oak aging has broad- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 acidity, this wine is all about crispness. The lemon ened this already ripe wine. The touch of toast is and sliced green apples are laced with acidity and balanced by the yellow fruits and rich acidity. It is Henri Bourgeois 2016 Les Baronnes with a concentrated texture. Drink this zesty wine full, concentrated, mineral textured and ready to 89 (Sancerre). This wine is packed with the from 2018. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. drink. Jerome Selection. —R.V. purest stream of citrus flavors. There is a herbal abv: 12.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $30 background to the fruitiness along with acidity and a bright aftertaste. It’s a wine to drink young for its Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2015 Frétoy Château de Sancerre 2015 Sancerre. The delicious fruit. Chambers & Chambers. —R.V. 90 (Sancerre). This Domaine, based in the 89 Medieval Sancerre castle (Joan of Arc slept abv: 13% Price: $25 Pouilly-Fumé region across the Loire, also has vines here) was built on the site of an ancient Roman for- in Sancerre. The wine is rich, with melon and juicy tress. Now owned by the producers of Grand Marnier­ Saget la Perrière 2015 Domaine de Terres apple flavors. Its acidity and steely texture form liqueur, the vineyard produces an attractive, open 89 Blanches (Sancerre). A smooth and rounded a contrast to its deliciously refreshing character. style of wine. It has just the right tangy acidity along wine that is full of ripe fruits. It has a hint of steely Drink now. Robert Houde Wines. —R.V. with delicious ripe apple and citrus fruits. The wine texture and minerality but the white fruit is the abv: 12.5% Price: $22 is ready to drink. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. immediately attractive aspect of the wine. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $30 this wine now. Yountville Wine Imports. —R.V. Gitton Père et Fils 2015 Les Fredins abv: 13% Price: $30 90 (Sancerre). Vinified in large wood barrels, Domaine Benoît & Mathieu Fleuriet 2015 the wine is extra rich with a touch of spice and 89 Renaissance La Magie des Caillottes

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Vincent Grall 2015 Le Manoir (Sancerre). aftertaste. The wine is delicious now. Esprit du Vin. Pierre Prieur et Fils 2015 Sancerre. This rich 89 This wine shows its wood aging strongly in —R.V. 88 ripe wine is intense and concentrated. It the spicy smoky character. It gives an extra dimen- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 carries its unusually high alcohol easily, allowing sion to the wine—a contrast to the ripe white stone plenty of room for the full-bodied apple and yellow fruits. It is structured with a herbal edge finishing Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2015 Domaine fruits. There is a delicious tang of acidity at the end. with a crisp acidity. Drink from 2018. Matinicus 88 de la Croix Canat Les Blancs Gâteaux Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. Wines, LLC. —R.V. (Sancerre). This is a lively tangy wine that is made abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $27 to drink young. With its crisp texture, hint of min- erality and lively acidity, it is a refreshing wine that Roland Tissier et Fils 2015 Tradition Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2015 Tradi- could serve both as an apéritif and as an accompani- 88 (Sancerre). This is soft in style, ripe with 88 tion (Sancerre). The entry-level wine from ment to seafood. WineCraft.US. —R.V. fine acidity to create balance. The green fruits are this producer is ripe and a good reflection of the abv: 12.5% Price: $28 lifted by the crisp texture and the touch of spice. vintage. It has mango and apricot flavors as well Lightly perfumed and packed with fruit, it is ready as plenty of crisper acidity and white stone fruits. Fournier Père et Fils 2016 Les Belles Vignes to drink. The Winebow Group. —R.V. Drink this wine now. Diva Wine USA. —R.V. 88 (Sancerre). A tightly structured wine, the abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $30 entry-level Sancerre from this producer has density and concentration. It also has great fruit, a hint of Romain Reverdy 2015 Florilège (Sancerre). Domaine Fouassier 2015 Les Chasseignes green asparagus and swathes of lime and lemon bal- 88 The wine goes for the herbal side of Sauvi- 88 (Sancerre). This is a round, ripe and deli- anced by acidity. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. gnon Blanc with its green-fruit and gooseberry fla- ciously smooth wine. With a warm, vanilla char- abv: 12.5% Price: $27 vors. There is a grassy character that gives the wine acter as well as full and rich fruit, it is generous its intensely crisp acidity. Drink this wine from 2018 and ready to drink. The acidity at the end leaves a Hubert Brochard 2015 Aujourd’hui Comme so it can calm down. The Winebow Group. —R.V. refreshing aftertaste. Opici Wines. —R.V. 88 Autrefois Non Filtré (Sancerre). Unfiltered abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 and made in what the producer calls a traditional ancestral way, the wine is certainly intense and full Villebois 2016 Sancerre. This ripe wine with Domaine Fouassier 2015 Sur le Fort of spice as well as fruit. The wine, with its tangy 88 acidity and citrus flavors has an attractive 88 (Sancerre). Produced from 10- to 20-year- citrus and concentration, needs to age. Drink from mineral texture and lively acidity. It is crisp with old vines, this wine is bold and fruity. It has deli- 2018. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. —R.V. a fine tang of orange and lemon zest. Drink now. cious apricot and white peach fruitiness that is cut abv: 13% Price: $25 House of Burgundy. —R.V. by intense zesty acidity. Its fruit and crisp texture abv: 12.5% Price: $26 are still young and the wine will be better from 2018. Jean-Max Roger 2015 Cuvée les Caillottes Opici Wines. —R.V. 88 (Sancerre). Named after the stones in the Cave des Vins de Sancerre 2015 Les Champs abv: 13.5% Price: $30 vineyards, this wine is all crisp fruit and steely acid- 87 Clos (Sancerre). Produced by the Sancerre ity. The racy palate dominates, showing bright acid- cooperative, this is a warm, apricot and spice-fla- Domaine Girard 2016 Philippe Girard ity laden with citrus fruits. Drink this wine now. vored wine. It has a ripe character, is full of rich fruit 88 (Sancerre). The estate dates back to before Massanois Imports. —R.V. and has a soft open aftertaste. Drink now. Luneau the French Revolution. Today, it is run by Philippe abv: 13% Price: $26 USA Inc. —R.V. Girard who has produced this delightfully crisp abv: 13% Price: $25 wine. Its acidity and its tangy texture show its Jean-Paul Picard 2015 Le Chemin de Marloup youthful side. That needs to calm down and broaden 88 (Sancerre). The crispness of this wine is Domaine Chatelain 2015 Jean Vincent out, so wait until 2018. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. balanced by the intensely ripe fruit. Together the 87 (Sancerre). Soft and fruity, this bright lively abv: 13% Price: $26 wine has concentration as well as a bright texture wine is crisply refreshing. It has juicy acidity that that makes it refreshing. The wine is ready to drink. is flavored with apple and grapefruit flavors. Tangy Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2015 VOS Selections. —R.V. at the end, it is ready to drink. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. 88 ­Enclos de Maimbray (Sancerre). This single- abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $25 vineyard wine is ripe and smooth. Its crisp fruits are cushioned by the generous texture and flavors Joseph Mellot 2016 La Chatellenie Domaine Girard 2016 Benoît Girard of yellow fruits. It is an approachable wine now, 88 (Sancerre). This steely mineral wine is still 87 (Sancerre). This has a soft texture that just poised and with great fruitiness. Drink now. Vintage young. It has the crispest apple and lemon fruits as allows room for some crisp apple flavors. Otherwise, ’59 Imports. —R.V. well as a tight mineral texture. It obviously needs it is a smooth rounded wine. Its fruitiness and its abv: 12.5% Price: $35 to age with its nervy character keeping the more acidity are part and parcel of this ripe wine. Drink generous fruit in check. Drink from 2018. Jerome now. Milton’s Distributing Co., Inc. —R.V. Domaine Pierre Martin 2015 Sancerre. This Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 88 is a rich ripe wine showing the warmth of abv: 13% Price: $29 the vintage. With great fruitiness, flavors of yellow Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2015 Domaine de fruits as well as crisper citrus, the wine is smooth Patrice Moreux 2015 Sancerre. Based in 87 la Croix-Canat La Vendangette (Sancerre). and ready to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. 88 the Pouilly-Fumé area, but with vines in From the Sancerre vineyard of this Pouilly-Fumé abv: 13% Price: $NA Sancerre, this producer has made a rich wine with a producer, this is a ripe wine. Packed with apple and line of steely acidity. The spice and touch of vanilla rich peppered-pear flavors, it is spicy, shot through Domaine Roger Champault 2015 Les Pierris are balanced by the crisp lemon and gooseberry with acidity and lightly mineral at the end. The 88 (Sancerre). This is pure fruitiness, softly fruitiness. The wine is ready to drink. Imported wine is ready to drink. People Wine Corp. —R.V. textured and ready to drink. It has an attractive line Heritage. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 of grapefruit and orange fruit along with a warm ripe abv: 13% Price: $24 François Millet 2016 Sancerre. This is a soft, 87 easygoing style from the Millets, now in

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their third generation in Sancerre. With attractive from one of three estates owned by the Gueneau Isabelle et Pierre Clément 2015 La Dame de white stone fruits and a citrus streak, the wine has family. Spice and lively acidity finish this immedi- 88 Châtenoy (Menetou-Salon). The wine is delicious refreshing acidity and a light bright after- ately drinkable wine. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. rich, accenting tropical-fruit flavors as well as con- taste. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 centrated acidity. Its spice and tangy character are abv: 13% Price: $30 part of the wine’s intensity. This superripe wine is Langlois-Chateau 2015 Château de Fontaine- still on the young side and will be better from 2018. Jérôme Gueneau 2016 Domaine J. Gueneau 86 Audon (Sancerre). The Saumur-based mer- World Wine Source. —R.V. 87 (Sancerre). The wine is soft with a lightly chant has produced this ripe soft wine from a single abv: 14% Price: $25 toasty character to go alongside the bright acidity. vineyard. It is an easy simple wine with attractive Its grapefruit and gooseberry flavors are right up acidity and some tangy citrus fruits. Drink now. Isabelle et Pierre Clément 2015 Châtenoy front, giving a fruity aspect to the steely texture. Vintus LLC. —R.V. 87 (Menetou-Salon). In the style of this pro- Drink from 2018. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $26 ducer, this is a rich wine. It has ripe yellow fruits as abv: 12.5% Price: $25 well as the more mineral, crisp character that comes Saget la Perrière 2015 Domaine de la Per- from the tangy Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is still Jérôme Gueneau 2016 Le Clos Chartier 86 rière (Sancerre). Although this producer is young, needing a few more months. So drink from 87 (Sancerre). A soft style, this is ripe with based in Pouilly-sur-Loire, across the Loire, it also 2018. World Wine Source. —R.V. attractive apple and crisp pear fruits. The wine is has vines in Sancerre. This attractive crisp wine has abv: 13.5% Price: $20 refreshing with its acidity lacing through the flinty herbal hints and bright apple and citrus fruit. Drink texture. The wine will be ready to drink from 2018. now. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. Jean-Michel Sorbe 2015 Domaine Armand Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26 87 Gaston (Menetou-Salon). The wine is ripe abv: 12.5% Price: $25 and fruity with peach and apricot flavors and a soft generous texture. It does have a citrus touch which Nicolas Millet 2016 Champ Secret (Sancerre). MENETOU-SALON gives a crisp edge to this otherwise warm wine. 87 The wine is soft and round. It has a light Drink now. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. herbal edge to the otherwise smooth peach and Domaine de l’Hermitage 2015 Première Lune abv: 12.5% Price: $20 citrus flavors. The aftertaste brings in an attractive 89 (Menetou-Salon). Aged for six months mineral texture. Drink this crisp clean wine now. on its lees, this ripe smooth wine is both rich and Domaine Minchin 2015 La Tour Saint-Martin T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. crisply fruity. Balanced acidity partners the apricot 86 Morogues (Menetou-Salon). This is a ripe abv: 13% Price: $20 and ripe pear. It is just ready to drink, although it peach and apple-flavored wine. It has fine acidity to will be better from 2018. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. balance this richness giving an immediately attrac- Xavier Flouret 2015 French Blonde (Sancerre). abv: 13% Price: $20 tive fruity wine. Drink this easygoing wine now. 87 Produced at Domaine la Gemière, the wine —R.V. is soft, rounded and easy to drink young. It has a Domaine Philippe Gilbert 2015 Menetou-­ abv: 12.5% Price: $20 lively edge to the ripe citrus and apple fruitiness. It 89 Salon. Produced from biodynamically grown is open and ready to drink. Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. grapes, this is a ripe smooth wine. Its green fruits Jean-Max Roger 2015 Le Charnay (Menetou- abv: 13% Price: $23 and acidity are well in balance with the generous 85 Salon). This is an easy, open wine that is texture. The wine’s crispness comes through at the lightly herbal. There is a barnyard edge that masks Domaine de la Villaudière 2015 Sancerre. end with a tight lifted aftertaste. Drink from 2018. the fruit, although there is bright crisp acidity to 86 This accessible ripe wine is full of fruit. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —R.V. give it a lift. Drink now. Massanois Imports. —R.V. The aromas are intensely herbal, a character that is abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $22 repeated in the grassy palate that is lifted by juicy green fruits and citrus. Drink now. Planet Wine. Fournier Père et Fils 2016 Côtes de Morogues Pierre Jacolin 2015 Domaine du Manay —R.V. 89 (Menetou-Salon). This is a delicious wine— 85 (Menetou-Salon). An herbal wine with abv: 13% Price: $17 a soft generous style of Sauvignon Blanc. With ripe gooseberry and citrus flavors, this is full of fruiti- apples that are balanced by crisp acidity, the wine ness with acidity and touch of flint and steel in the François Millet 2016 Domaine des Côtes is deliciously fruity. There is a light dusting of pep- texture. The wine is ready to drink. Vintage Wine 86 Blanches (Sancerre). The wine is soft with per at the end. Drink from late 2017. David Milligan Marketing. —R.V. a flinty edge that gives it structure. There is a juicy Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 character to this clean crisp wine that reveals itself abv: 12.5% Price: $20 in the apple, lime and grapefruit flavors. The wine is young, although very ready to drink. T. Elenteny Domaine Benoît & Mathieu Fleuriet 2015 Les COTEAUX DU GIENNOIS Imports. —R.V. 88 Demoiselles (Menetou-Salon). The wine abv: 13% Price: $25 has all the warmth and ripe fruit of the vintage. Its Florian Roblin 2015 Coulée des Moulins tangy character is balanced by apple and pear fruits, 90 (­Coteaux du Giennois). This producer’s Hubert Brochard 2015 Tradition (Sancerre). along with refreshing acidity. Smoothly textured, style is for rich wines and this is no exception. With 86 A yellow-fruit interpretation of Sauvignon the wine is ready to drink. Vinifrance. —R.V. its depth of fruit and ripe apples and lemon, it is Blanc, meaning it is ripe, full and smooth. Of course abv: 13% Price: $25 both crisp and full. The wine has some wood aging there is acidity but it is calm and soft. The fruit not for the flavor, more for the open effect. Drink the dominates this rich wine that is ready to drink. Domaine Chavet 2015 Menetou-Salon. This wine now. Joli Vin. —R.V. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. —R.V. 88 is a soft rounded wine. With a generous abv: 12.5% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $24 texture and warm white stone-fruit flavors, it is smooth with only a mild tang of clementine peel. Florian Roblin 2015 Champ Gibault (Coteaux Jérôme Gueneau 2016 Domaine des Grandes The wine is delicious, ripe and ready to drink. USA 87 du Giennois). The wine is crisp, tangy and 86 Perrières (Sancerre). Open, friendly and Wine West. —R.V. with plenty of grapefruit and lemon fruitiness. Its lively fruit dominate this crisp clean wine. It comes abv: 13% Price: $20 crispness and nervy texture are bright and refresh-

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 ing. With fine acidity at the end, this is ready now. texture and aromatic Sauvignon Blanc grapes, it is a Domaine Joël Delaunay 2016 Sauvignon Joli Vin. —R.V. wine to appreciate as an apéritif rather than drink 87 Blanc Touraine. This family-owned producer abv: 12.5% Price: $30 with food. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. has made a distinctly crisp herbal wine. With goose- abv: 13% Price: $19 berry and aromatic green fruit, the wine is light Saget la Perrière 2015 Domaine de Terres while packed with acidity and lively fruitiness. The 87 Blanches Alchimie (Coteaux du Giennois). wine is ready to drink. WineWise. —R.V. From a small appellation north of the Pouilly-Fumé VOUVRAY abv: 12% Price: $14 region, this wine is lightly fruity. It has creamy acid- ity and a perfumed character that comes from the Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau 2015 Abbaye de Monmousseau 2016 Justin Monmousseau lemon and honey fruitiness. Drink now. Yountville 93 Marmoutier Clos du Rougemont (Vouvray). 86 (Touraine). While there is a herbal char- Wine Imports. —R.V. The abbey of Marmoutier was founded in the 4th acter to this wine, its main interest is in the ripe abv: 13% Price: $20 century by Saint Martin. The walled vineyard is orange and apricot fruits. They cut easily into owned by the city of Tours, across the Loire from the acidity and the mineral edge of this attractive Thibault 2015 Fernand & Sons (Coteaux du Vouvray. The wine is off dry, ripe with pear and ready-to-drink wine. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. 87 Giennois). Crisp and full of green apple and honey and deliciously balanced with the acidity. It abv: 12% Price: $13 squeezed lemon juice, this is a fruity wine that has a is young and will repay aging, so drink from 2020. tight edge of steely texture as a contrast. It is a fine, Michael Corso Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Paris-Simoneau 2016 Antoine Simoneau refreshing and tangy wine, hinting at minerality and abv: 12.5% Price: $26 86 Cuvée AS Sauvignon Blanc (Touraine). This ready to drink. Moonlight Wine Company. —R.V. tangy wine is crisp while also fruity. With its hints abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau 2015 Cuvée Silex of herbal flavors along with green plum and apples, 91 (Vouvray). Produced from organic grapes, it is a juicy wine that is ready to drink now. Z Wine Thibault 2015 Domaine de Villargeau (Cote- the wine is beautiful and honey touched. Its acid- Gallery Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 86 aux du Giennois). The wine, from the area ity keeps crispness while the fruit shines with abv: 12% Price: $9 north of Pouilly-Fumé, is brightly lit with fine acid- lemon and creamed-apple flavors. Drink from 2018. ity and green fruits. It is also textured, bringing out Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. Paris-Simoneau 2016 Antoine Simoneau the chalk and flint soil of the areas. Drink this fruity abv: 12.5% Price: $23 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Touraine). This is a stylish lightly structured wine now. Polaner Selections. attractive wine. It has an herbal touch although it is —R.V. Clos du Gaimont 2016 Vouvray. This is a dry more about delicious bright fruit. Citrus and crisp abv: 12.5% Price: $16 91 wine, although still retaining those enticing apples dominate, laced with acidity. This refresh- honey flavors that are typical of Loire . ing wine is ready to drink now. American Northwest Apple and ripe pear flavors are laced with intense Distributors Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. QUINCY acidity. Its delicate white-flower perfumes are ethe- abv: 12% Price: $9 real. Drink now. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Domaine du Coudray 2015 Une Pointe abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Paul Buisse 2016 Château de Pocé Sauvi- 90 d’Authenticité (Quincy). From La Pointe, 86 gnon Blanc (Touraine). From vines on the a small parcel of old vines, this is a full ripe wine. Clos Chapon 2016 Vouvray. The wine comes north bank of the Loire, this wine is in a soft gentle It has apricot and mango fruits and is vinified using 87 from vineyards on the plateau above the style. With attractive fruit, it is light in texture with natural yeasts, making it rich and generous. The wine village of Vouvray. It is a ripe, lemon and honey- an attractive spring in its step. Ready to drink now. is ready to drink. Savio Soares Selections. —R.V. flavored wine with balanced acidity that creates a Savorian Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 clean, crisp, perfumed and fruity aftertaste. Drink abv: 12% Price: $13 now. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Domaine Adèle Rouzé 2015 Quincy. This abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Bougrier 2016 Domaine Guenault Sauvignon 88 full-bodied perfumed wine brings out ripe 85 Blanc (Touraine). The wine is soft and open. white and green fruits. With summer-flower aro- It has some bright citrus and creamed-apple flavors mas and plenty of acidity, it is attractive and crisply TOURAINE that give it a ripe character. The wine is juicy, fruity refreshing. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. and ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Domaine Joël Delaunay 2015 La Voûte Sau- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 90 vignon Blanc (Touraine Chenonceaux). From Domaine Philippe Portier 2015 Quincy. The selected parcels on this estate, this wine is rich Paul Buisse 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Touraine). 88 wine is ripe and soft. It has a light touch of and with great intensity. It has a flinty character 85 This is a light bright wine, full of forward green fruits alongside its richer apricot flavor. There that will allow it to age. Its apple and citrus fruits fruitiness. The tangy edge of minerality gives the is an herbal and minty aftertaste that creates a lift. are balanced by the concentrated taut texture and wine a pleasing texture. Citrus fruits support this Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —R.V. finished with acidity. Drink this wine from 2018. texture with their zest and acidity. The wine is abv: 13% Price: $25 WineWise. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. ready to drink. Cape Classics. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Domaine Roux 2015 Quincy. This ripe wine 88 from Albin Roux’s estate is generous and Domaine du Vieil Orme 2016 Cuvée PHI Sau- Pierre Chainier 2016 Château de la Roche Sau- packed with rich apricot and pear fruits. There is a 87 vignon Blanc (Touraine). Produced from 85 vignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc (Touraine). steely edge to the texture, giving a final bite to the 25-year-old vines, this is a delicious, crisp and Ripe while also herbal, this is an easy fruity wine. acidity of this opulent wine. WineWise. —R.V. clean wine. It has attractive apricot and melon fla- It has an attractive spice and perfumed white-fruit abv: 14% Price: $19 vors that are cut with lime acidity. Drink this fruity character that enhances the crisp citrus fruit. Drink wine now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. now. Bronco Wine Company. —R.V. Jean-Michel Sorbe 2015 Quincy. This deli- abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: NA Price: $13 88 ciously perfumed wine originates from a small appellation west of Sancerre. With its crisp

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Pierre Chainier 2016 Domaine Roc de Châ- Chateau de l’Oiselinière 2016 Sur Lie (Mus- its lift and brightness. Drink now. Saranty Imports. 85 teauvieux Sauvignon Blanc (Touraine). With 87 cadet Sèvre et Maine). This is a delightfully —R.V. its silex soil, this vineyard is able to produce a dis- fruity wine from one of the old estates in Muscadet. abv: 11.5% Price: $11 tinctly mineral wine. This is crisp, tightly woven With crisp apple flavors and lively acidity, it is cool, with acidity and herbal characteristics. That is bal- clean, full of zesty fruitiness. Drink now. Cognac Marc Dupas 2016 Les Parcelles Sur Lie (Mus- anced by the refreshing lemon and grapefruit flavors. One, LLC. —R.V. 84 cadet Sèvre et Maine). This negociant has Drink now. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16 produced a simple fruity Muscadet with a zesty tex- abv: 12% Price: $13 ture and easy acidity. Crisp and packed with citrus Domaine de la Coche 2016 La Salle aux Fées fruit, it is ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 87 Sur Lie (Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu). The abv: 12% Price: $12 MUSCADET wine comes from southwest of Nantes in the region around Lac de Grand-Lieu. It is a rounded style of Ollivier Frères 2016 Perle de Mer Sur Lie Domaine de l’Ecu 2016 Granite Sur Lie (Mus- wine, cut with some attractive acidity as well as 84 (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). The wine is all 92 cadet Sèvre et Maine). One of a pair of wines apple fruitiness. Drink now. Private Cask Imports. about crisp juicy fruit. It has only the lightest tex- that comes from specific soil types. This impres- —R.V. ture—just apple and citrus acidity. Drink now. Fruit sive wine, from granite soil, is strongly mineral abv: 12% Price: $15 of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. while also having some great fruit. Apples, pears abv: 12% Price: $10 and green plums all make their presence felt in this Domaine les Hautes Noëlles 2016 Les Par- wine that deserves aging. Drink from 2018. Polaner 87 celles Sur Lie (Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu). Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. This is all light fruit and crisp acidity. Bright and VAL DE LOIRE abv: 12% Price: $24 light, brimming with citrus and apples, the wine is ready to drink. It comes from the western end of the Domaine Laporte 2016 Le Bouquet Sauvi- Domaine de l’Ecu 2016 Orthogneiss Sur Lie Muscadet vineyards near the Lac de Grand-Lieu. 87 gnon Blanc (Val de Loire). The wine, from a 92 (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). This biodynamic Skurnik Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. great Sancerre producer, is packed with the crisp- estate produces some very fine wines, expressive of abv: 12% Price: $12 est, herbal and aromatic fruit. This is the essence their soil types. This still-young wine from volca- of Sauvignon Blanc, no messing around. Crisp cit- nic rock is ripe while also intensely structured. It Guilbaud Frères 2016 Cuvée du Lion (Musca- rus and delicious tangy acidity play easily together. has the potential for great fruitiness while keeping 87 det Sèvre et Maine). Refreshing and fruity, Drink now. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. this structure. Drink from 2018. Polaner Selections. this is quintessential Muscadet. It has a zesty charac- abv: NA Price: $18 —R.V. ter that brings out the lemon and orange flavor. Add- abv: 12% Price: $24 ing to the citrus fruits, there is also pink grapefruit Henri Bourgeois 2016 Petit Bourgeois Sauvi- in this fruity mix. The wine is crisp, lively and ready 86 gnon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc (Val de Loire). Domaine de l’Ecu 2016 Classic Sur Lie (Mus- to drink. United Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V. Bringing out the crispness of a Touraine Sauvignon, 90 cadet Sèvre et Maine). This is the entry- abv: 12% Price: $10 this wine is full of herbal flavors, crisp acidity and level wine from this biodynamic estate. It is full a soft fruity character. It is immediately attrac- of flavor, ripe from the lees aging and with intense Ollivier Frères 2016 Domaine de l’Olivier tive, simple, bright and ready to drink. Chambers & acidity to balance. It goes more to the apple side of 87 Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). This is Chambers. —R.V. Muscadet, producing a wine that is rich and full a beautifully ripe wine, full of melon and apricot abv: 12.5% Price: $13 bodied. Drink from late 2017. Polaner Selections. fruits as well as fine crisp acidity. There is a little Best Buy. —R.V. touch of pepper to give the wine piquancy. Drink Paris-Simoneau 2016 Domaine de la Rablais abv: 12% Price: $15 this attractive wine now. Gabriella Importers Inc. 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Val de Loire). Owned by Best Buy. —R.V. the same family since 1790, this estate has pro- Gadais Père et Fils 2016 Sur Lie (Muscadet abv: 12% Price: $11 duced a fruity, attractive wine with lively acidity 90 Sèvre et Maine). This is a finely textured and a crisp texture. It is full of tangy lemon-zest wine, shining with the granite soil of the vineyard. Ollivier Frères 2016 Domaine de la Gren- and refreshing lime-juice flavors. Drink now. Astor Its acidity and crisp apple flavors are still young, 87 audière Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). Wines. —R.V. still tight. Give this delicious wine until late 2017 The wine is light and crisp with lemon acidity and abv: 12% Price: $12 to drink. Weygandt-Metzler. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. with a zesty bright texture. There is a touch of min- abv: 12% Price: $16 erality and a clean lively aftertaste. Drink now. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. OTHER WHITE WINES Domaine de la Vieille Cure 2016 Sur Lie (Mus- abv: 12% Price: $10 89 cadet Sèvre et Maine). This is a concen- Château de Parnay 2011 Clos d’Entre les Murs trated wine for a Muscadet. Its apple and intense Ollivier Frères 2016 Domaine de la Gren- 95 (Saumur). This wine comes from a vine- lime flavors are supported by the acidity and the 85 audière La Grenouille Sur Lie (Muscadet yard, created in 1894, in which the vines are planted mineral edge. The fruitiness will come out on top, Sèvre et Maine). Soft, fruity and lightly crisp, this is against walls to get the maximum reflected heat. It just wait until 2018. The Vine Collective. Best Buy. a wine to drink young to keep its freshness. It has is a majestic wine—a smooth wave, opulent and —R.V. perfumed acidity and a lightly zesty lemon aftertaste. rich with intense acidity and just a hint of spice. abv: 12% Price: $14 AHD Vintners. —R.V. The wine is just ready to drink, although it will be abv: 12% Price: $11 even more impressive from 2018. Palateur Imports. Bedouet 2016 Le Domaine Sur Lie (Muscadet Cellar Selection. —R.V. 88 Sèvre et Maine). Produced from organically- Bougrier 2016 Muscadet. This is a simple abv: 14% Price: $120 grown grapes, this ripe wine has the proper crisp 84 fruity wine that is just right for the summer. texture, bright acidity and salted lemon flavors. It Light citrus and orange-zest flavors give the wine Château de Parnay 2014 Chemin des Murs is totally ready to drink. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. 88 (Saumur). The limestone soil gives this abv: 12% Price: $15 juicy fruity wine a fine tight line of minerality. That

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 contrasts with the apricot and lemon flavors that Jérôme Gueneau 2016 Domaine des Grandes currant-flavored wine is packed with acidity. It is shine out from this generous wine. It is ready to 88 Perrières Rosé (Sancerre). This warm fruity tense and juicy with a light brushstroke of vanilla. drink now. Palateur Imports. —R.V. wine is rounded and ripe with flavors of vanilla as But it is the intense acidity that sets the tone for abv: 13.5% Price: $29 well as red-berry fruits. It is soft with just a light this wine. Make this a food—not an apéritif—wine. tang of orange zest and finishing acidity. Drink this T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. Domaine de Reuilly 2015 Les Pierres Plates attractive wine now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 88 (Reuilly). The wine is packed with crisp abv: 12.5% Price: $24 herbal fruit. Its acidity and its green-fruit charac- ter are finely balanced and softened enough to have Domaine Roger & Christophe Moreux 2016 REUILLY become very drinkable. The aftertaste is cool and 87 Cuvée les Lys Rosé (Sancerre). The wine is refreshing. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. rich and full of strawberry-fruit flavors. It has a Domaine de Reuilly 2015 Pinot Gris Rosé abv: 12.5% Price: $20 full-bodied character that is balanced by the crisper 88 (Reuilly).­ Pinot Gris, with its pale-pink edge of acidity. This fruity ripe wine is ready to skin, is the grape of choice in Reuilly for rosés. With Saget la Perrière 2015 Château de la Mulon­ drink. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. a color that matches pale rosés from Provence, the 85 nière M de Mulonnière (Anjou). This is a abv: 13% Price: $30 wine is lightly spicy while also dry. Its balanced lightly honeyed wine with attractive almond and acidity is just right. Drink now. Kermit Lynch Wine apple fruits. It comes from vines owned by the Saget Fournier Père et Fils 2016 Les Belles Vignes Merchant. —R.V. family since 2002. With final crisp acidity and a 87 Rosé (Sancerre). An immediately refreshing abv: 12.5% Price: $20 tangy texture, it is ready to drink. Esprit du Vin. wine, made from 100% Pinot Noir, this is crisp and —R.V. fruity. It is light in texture while red-currants and Jean-Michel Sorbe 2016 Rosé (Reuilly). This abv: 12.5% Price: $15 acidity give the wine its lifted aftertaste. Drink now. 86 is a refreshing crisp wine. Made from Pinot David Milligan Selections. —R.V. Gris, it has a light color, red-currant fruits and lively abv: 12.5% Price: $27 acidity. With a delicate perfume, it is a bright wine SPARKLING WINES to drink now. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. Henri Bourgeois 2016 Les Jeunes Vignes Rosé abv: 13% Price: $19 Paris-Simoneau NV Brut Prestige (Touraine). 87 (Sancerre). The wine is simply crisp red- 88 This is a honey and almond-flavored wine. berry fruit. It has red-currant and wild-strawberry Joseph Mellot 2016 Les Milets Rosé (Reuilly). With its light acidity and creamed-apple fruitiness, flavors along with intense bright acidity. It’s an 85 This 100% Pinot Gris wine has a light-pink it is soft with a crisp edge. Drink this attractive attractive Pinot Noir, ready to drink now. Chambers color. With its soft ripe red-berry fruitiness it is sparkling wine now. Astor Wines. —R.V. & Chambers. —R.V. crisp and clean. There is a touch of spice from these abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 pale-pink-skinned grapes which are more often used to make white wine. Jerome Selection. —R.V. Paris-Simoneau NV Brut Rosé (Touraine). Jérôme Gueneau 2016 Domaine J. Gueneau abv: 13% Price: $20 87 This blend of Grolleau and Gamay has an 87 Rosé (Sancerre). This producer has a num- attractive onion-skin-pink color. Fruity and with ber of estates in Sancerre. This estate, bearing his red-currant flavors, it is soft and lively. There is a own name, has produced a delicate, crisp and fruity OTHER ROSÉS nutty character that adds to the pleasure of this wine. Its acidity and tight texture make this wine easygoing ready-to-drink wine. Astor Wines. Best really food friendly. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Domaine Dozon 2016 Rosé (Chinon). Ripe Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 88 strawberries and crisp acidity blend abv: 12% Price: $12 together in this refreshing, crisp and fruity wine. Jérôme Gueneau 2016 Le Clos Chartier Rosé Produced from Cabernet Franc, the wine is lightly 87 (Sancerre). This spicy wine is fruity while perfumed and with a final shot of bright acidity. LOIRE VALLEY also complex with its combination of red berries and Drink now. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. a pepper edge. It is full and ripe with a light crisp abv: 13% Price: $19 ROSÉS aftertaste. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Domaine de l’Hermitage 2015 L’Envolée Rosé SANCERRE 88 (Menetou-Salon). This is a balanced ripe Joseph Mellot 2016 Le Rabault Rosé wine, packed with delicious fruit. Its red-currant Domaine Girard 2016 Benoît Girard Rosé 87 (Sancerre). Light, bright and packed with acidity is softened by the wild-strawberry fruitiness 88 (Sancerre). This Pinot Noir-based wine is crisp fruit, this is a refreshing wine. Produced from and by the warm caramel touch. It is spicy at the ripe and full of red-berry fruits. With its refresh- Pinot Noir, it has red-cherry flavors along with a end, making it a wine that’s ready to drink. Baron ing acidity as well as tangy aftertaste it is so crisp mineral texture and bright fruitiness. Drink now. Francois Ltd. —R.V. and so ready to drink on any sunny day. Milton’s Jerome Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 Distributing Co., Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $25 Isabelle et Pierre Clément 2015 Châtenoy Nicolas Millet 2016 Champ Secret Rosé 87 Rosé (Menetou-Salon). Menetou-Salon uses François Millet 2016 Rosé (Sancerre). The 86 (Sancerre). There is a caramel edge to this Pinot Noir for its rosés, like nearby Sancerre. The 88 Millet family’s history in Sancerre dates ripe wine with its strawberry fruits. It has spice wine is in a fresh, crisp style, emphasizing acidity back to the 1930s. This Pinot Noir-based wine, the and flavors of vanilla along with the crisp aftertaste and red currant. It is light in feel and bright with most serious of the rosés that the family produces, is of acidity. Drink this Pinot Noir-based wine now. red-fruit that lingers. World Wine Source. —R.V. a ripe strawberry-flavored wine with a tangy, bitter- T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 87% Price: $20 cherry edge. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $30 Domaine les Pins 2016 Cuvée les Rochettes François Millet 2016 Domaine des Côtes 86 Rosé (Bourgueil). The wine is tight with 85 Blanches Rosé (Sancerre). This crisp red- acidity and red-currant fruitiness. Made from Cab-

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ernet Franc, it is crisp, cut through with a lively, min- full of great ripe fruit and generous tannins. Drink Henri Bourgeois 2014 Les Baronnes eral texture. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. from 2018. European Cellars. —R.V. 88 (Sancerre). The wine is velvet soft with abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $40 smooth red berries and gentle tannins. It has a line in acidity along with spice and a rounded texture. Henri Bourgeois 2016 Les Amphores Rosé Daniel Chotard 2015 Sancerre. Wood aged and Drink this lightly wood-aged wine now. Chambers 86 (Châteaumeillant). Produced from Gamay 91 ripe, this is a structured wine that is full of & Chambers. —R.V. in a small enclave of vines south of Sancerre, this is fruit and still young. It has bright cherry flavors that abv: 12.5% Price: $27 a cherry-blossom-perfumed wine, bright and crisp have been softened and smoothed out by the wood with red-cherry flavors. It is ready now. Chambers aging. There is also a mineral edge to the fruitiness. Joseph Mellot 2015 Domaine des Emois & Chambers. —R.V. It will be a rich wine but it needs more time. Drink 88 (Sancerre). Rich and fruity, this wine full abv: 13.5% Price: $20 from 2019. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. of black-cherry and red-plum flavors. There is no abv: 13% Price: $30 wood aging, just fruit and crisp acidity that between Henri Bourgeois 2016 Petit Bourgeois Rosé them fill out the lightly tannic texture. Drink this 86 de Pinot Noir (Val de Loire). This is a tangy Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2015 Tradition wine from 2018. Jerome Selection. —R.V. fruity wine. It has crisp acidity along with spice 91 (Sancerre). This perfumed and wood-aged abv: 12.5% Price: $30 as well as red-currant fruitiness. It is light and wine is so stylish. It is smooth in texture, paced refreshing and ready to drink now. Chambers & with acidity and shows well-balanced red fruits. Domaine Benoît & Mathieu Fleuriet 2015 Chambers. —R.V. The wine finishes with fine acidity and delicious 87 Renaissance La Magie des Caillottes abv: 12.5% Price: $13 fruitiness. Drink now. Diva Wine USA. —R.V. (Sancerre). The softness of this Pinot Noir brings abv: 12.5% Price: $40 out red berries and a supple texture. It is ripe, fruity and with a generous warm aftertaste. Drink now. LOIRE VALLEY Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2015 Vinifrance. —R.V. 90 Origine (Sancerre). This is a fine wine with abv: 13% Price: $27 RED WINES its balanced red-cherry and berry flavors and finely textured tannins. The wine is light, poised and very Fournier Père et Fils 2014 Les Belles Vignes SANCERRE stylish with its fruit and acidity just right. The wine 87 (Sancerre). The wine is stalky with tight will age another few months, so drink from 2018. tannins and just a touch of spicy wood. It has acid- Alphonse Mellot 2014 En Grands Champs Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. ity, bitter cherry fruits and structure. Drink now. 94 (Sancerre). From old vines planted in a abv: 12.5% Price: $35 David Milligan Selections. —R.V. single vineyard, this is a spectacular red. It has the abv: 12.5% Price: $27 crisp acidity of the cool-climate Sancerre, but it Pierre Morin 2015 Sancerre. This is a ripe also has the weight and ripeness of a fine Burgundy. 90 smooth wine. With its generous tannins Michel Vattan 2015 Sancerre. This is a light The wood aging has left a spicy toasty edge to the and concentrated black-plum fruits, it is rich and 87 fruity style of wine, full of red cherries. It beautiful cherry fruits and acidity. It could age for full. The wine still has plenty of youthful acidity and has a spicy edge along with a supple base of tannins. another year to be at its best. Drink from 2019. Elite fruitiness and needs time to fully develop. Drink With its fruit and acidity, the wine is ready to drink. Wines Import. Cellar Selection. —R.V. from 2019. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Boivin Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $112 abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 12.5% Price: $28

Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2015 Antho- Domaine Sautereau 2014 Côte de Reigny Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2015 94 cyane (Sancerre). Old-vine Pinot Noir has 89 (Sancerre). Some barrel aging has given this 86 Grande Côte de la Vallée (Sancerre). The produced a rich structured wood-aged wine. With wine, with its already ripe fruits, extra richness. It is wine has a lean texture, presenting fruit that is shot its opulent texture and ripe full-bodied cherries and spicy, lifted by juicy acidity from the black cherries through with tight acidity. Cherry flavors are firmly red plums, the wine is poised and generous. Drink and plums. This is a full, warm and ripe wine that is balanced with tannins and a dry core. Definitely cool- this impressive wine from 2018. Diva Wine USA. just now ready to drink. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. climate Pinot Noir. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 13% Price: $60 Joseph Mellot 2012 Le Connétable Daniel Chotard 2014 Le Chant de l’Archet 89 (Sancerre). One year of wood aging has given MENETOU-SALON 93 (Sancerre). A selection of old vines and 12 this wine its toasty character. It is balanced with the months of barrel aging have produced a ripe, full and red-cherry fruit and acidity. Named after the con- Domaine de l’Hermitage 2015 Les Pierres spicy wine. Red-plum and black-cherry fruits are stable who controlled the castle of Sancerre in the 90 Chaudes (Menetou-Salon). This is a concentrated and dense with flavors of dark choco- Middle Ages, the wine is dense with tannins as well smooth wine with soft tannins cushioned by gener- late from the wood aging. Drink this powerful wine as the fruit. It should be ready to drink, although it ous fruits. Its red-cherry acidity gives the lightest from 2019. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Cellar does seem on the dry side. Jerome Selection. —R.V. stalky edge and will allow the wine to age further. Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 The partial barrel aging has added spice. Drink this abv: 13% Price: $35 fine wine from 2019. Baron Francois Ltd.Editors’ Paul Prieur et Fils 2015 Sancerre. The wine Choice. —R.V. Domaine Vacheron 2015 Sancerre. Expand- 89 is ripe, full of black-cherry fruits and with abv: 13% Price: $20 92 ing on their fathers’ legacies, the cousins a substantial tannic core. At the same time, it does Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique Vacheron have have the lighter style normally associated with red Isabelle et Pierre Clément 2015 Tradition a deserving reputation for their almost-Burgundian Pinot Noir. The aftertaste is ripe, fruity and rich with 88 (Menetou-Salon). While there is a youthful Sancerre. This latest vintage, packed with both fruit fruit. Drink from 2018. Russell Herman Selection. stalky element to this wine, it also has plenty of ripe and structure, shows why. It is ripe with red cher- —R.V. black-cherry fruit. That suggests a warm ripe future ries and dark plums laced with acidity. The wine is abv: 13% Price: $25

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 as the tannins soften. Drink this potentially rich, Domaine des Béguineries 2015 Réserve de and creamy fruit, with well-balanced acidity. Kysela spicy wine from 2019. World Wine Source. —R.V. 86 Satis (Chinon). This blackberry-flavored Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 young wine is structured with tannins. The acidity abv: 13% Price: $12 and the ripe fruitiness are developing well, so drink Domaine Chavet 2015 Menetou-Salon. The from 2019 when it will have softened and filled out. Gabriel Meffre 2016 La Châsse Chardonnay 86 wine is soft and ripe with gentle fruit and Apollo Fine Wines & Spirits. —R.V. 85 (Vin de France). Soft and fruity, this is an an attractive crisp aftertaste. A touch of vanilla and abv: NA Price: $20 easy-to-drink wine. Its creamy texture and balanced a smoky backdrop add to the flavors of this ready- acidity complement its apple flavors. It’s ready to to-drink wine. USA Wine West. —R.V. Florian Roblin 2015 Champ Gibault (Coteaux drink. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 88 du Giennois). This warm ripe blend of Pinot abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Noir and Gamay has some firm tannins as well as Joseph Mellot 2015 Les Thureaux (Menetou- juicy red fruits. It is concentrated and structured M. & J-F Bertrand 2016 Fleur de Carbonnel 85 Salon). This is a wine without wood aging. while also having a generous, fruity character. Drink 85 Chardonnay (Vin de France). Touches of Instead, it is all fruit with soft tannins and a light this wine now. Joli Vin. —R.V. vanilla and spice give this wine an attractive char- texture. The stalky red-currant and cherry fruits are abv: 12.5% Price: $35 acter. Its light, tangy texture adds crispness that textured and smoky. It is not a wine for aging, so supplements the bright acidity. Drink now. MHW, drink now. Jerome Selection. —R.V. Domaine de Reuilly 2015 Pinot Noir (Reuilly). Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 85 This is a crisp cherry-flavored wine. Cool- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 climate Pinot Noir has a light texture that gives the wine a hint of tannins although it is much more Patriarche Père et Fils 2016 Chardonnay (Vin SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY about fruit and bright acidity. Drink now. Kermit 84 de France). This is a soft, rounded wine with Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. floral aromas and a line of citrusy acidity. Its light Château de Parnay 2014 La Coulée du Méri- abv: 13% Price: $20 tang gives it a crisp aftertaste. Barton & Guestier 94 dien (Saumur-Champigny). The Meridian USA. —R.V. in the name is the zero-longitude Prime Meridian abv: 13% Price: $10 which passes through this vineyard. The wine, with VIN DE FRANCE its minty flavors from new-wood aging, is serious, Eric Louis 2016 Alphonse Dolly Les Doigts concentrated and with an impressive structure. The CHARDONNAY 83 d’Or de Dolly Chardonnay (Vin de France). dark firm character of this wine promises plenty Soft, rounded and fruity, with apple flavors, this is more aging. Drink from 2020. Palateur Imports. Doudet Naudin 2016 Chardonnay (Vin de pretty anonymous in character. Drink now. Chemin Cellar Selection. —R.V. 88 France). This Burgundian producer has Des Vins. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $120 made a lightly wood-aged, ripe wine. It shows abv: 13% Price: $14 sophisticated balance between ripe fruit and spicy Château de Parnay 2014 Saumur-Champigny. acidity and is smooth, generous and ready to drink. Florent Descombe NV Chardonnay (Vin de 92 This serious wine is spicy both from wood Fine LLC. —R.V. 83 France). This is a soft wine with juicy acid- aging and from the natural character of the Cabernet abv: 13% Price: $15 ity, a creamy texture and a touch of crisp citrus at Franc. It is rich, intense and with layers of red fruits the end. DHI Selections. —R.V. balanced with a strongly smoky character. The wine L. Tramier & Fils 2016 Tramier Chardonnay abv: 12% Price: $16 has a tight texture, suggesting it needs further aging. 87 (Vin de France). Based in Burgundy, this Drink from 2019. Palateur Imports. —R.V. producer understands Chardonnay. That’s why this Tussock Jumper 2016 Chardonnay (Vin de abv: 13.5% Price: $50 wine is so finely balanced, with a ripe and perfumed 83 France). This light-bodied wine shows cit- character and a warm, full aftertaste. Drink now. rus and green fruit touches. It has a soft aftertaste Château de Parnay 2014 Le Clos du Château Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. that makes it attractive and ready to drink. Tri-Vin 89 de Parnay (Saumur-Champigny). This is the abv: 13% Price: $10 Imports. —R.V. entry-level wine of this estate. It shows a crisp side abv: 12.5% Price: $12 of Cabernet Franc while keeping all its perfumed Maison de la Villette 2016 Chardonnay (Vin character. The wine is structured with young tan- 87 de France). This is a warm, fruity wine with nins as well which are balanced with acidity and a flavor profile that fluctuates between citrus and SAUVIGNON BLANC bright red-berry fruits. Drink from 2018. Palateur pear qualities. It has vanilla, almond and attractive Imports. —R.V. spice accents, finishing balanced and ready to drink. Auguste Bonhomme 2016 La Forcine Sau- abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 vignon Blanc (Vin de France). This cool-cli- abv: 13% Price: $10 mate wine is crisp, steely and full of fruit. Its acidity and touch of saltiness add to its refreshing nature. OTHER RED WINES Vinadeis 2016 Le Val Chardonnay (Vin de Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. 87 France). Consistently the top showing wine abv: 12% Price: $13 Domaine Dozon 2015 Clos du Saut au Loup from the Le Val range, this is ripe and rounded, with 91 (Chinon). This wine comes from a single a creamy texture and a toasty, spicy touch from light Eric Louis 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de vineyard on the south bank of the Vienne river. It wood aging. Drink now. Vinadeis Americas USA. 87 France). Although the producer is based in is ripe, perfumed and generously rich with concen- Best Buy. —R.V. Sancerre, this wine has an almost southern warmth trated blackberry fruit and balanced tannins. Some abv: 13% Price: $12 to it. Its orange blossom aromas, rich tropical fruit wood aging has broadened the wine rather than flavors and balanced acidity make it ripe and ready adding flavor. The wine could age another year with Bougrier 2016 Alain de la Treille Chardonnay to drink now. Five Grapes. Best Buy. —R.V. noticeable benefit, so drink from 2018. Michael 85 (Vin de France). This broad wine has apple abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Corso Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. and pear flavors and a smooth texture. It’s all ripe abv: 13% Price: $20

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Bougrier 2016 Alain de la Treille Sauvignon from the south of France is tangy and ready to drink. generous fruitiness. Drink now. Total Wine & More. 86 Blanc (Vin de France). Crisply herbal in Vitis Imports. —R.V. —R.V. nature, this is a citrus fruit flavored wine. It’s full of abv: 12% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $20 refreshing acidity, giving it a lively, bright character and an aftertaste that reinforces that laser focus. Les Alliés 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de Gabriel Meffre 2016 La Châsse Chardonnay- Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. 84 France). This ripe, fruity wine delivers trop- 86 Viognier (Vin de France). This ripe, generous abv: 12% Price: $12 ical fruit, apricot and white plum flavors. Its warm wine made from 70% Viognier is full of apricot and acidity leaves a rounded, creamy aftertaste. Tri-Vin apple flavors. Its bright acidity and touch of spice Eric Louis 2016 Alphonse Dolly Les Doigts Imports. —R.V. make it refreshing and ready to drink. Classic Wine 86 d’Or de Dolly Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de abv: 12% Price: $13 Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. France). Ripe tropical fruit flavors give this wine abv: 12.5% Price: $10 from Sancerre producer Eric Louis its warm charac- M. & J-F Bertrand 2016 Fleur de Carbonnel ter. It has enough acidity to cut through the richness 84 Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France). Duo des Mers 2016 Sauvignon-Viognier (Vin and give it a fruity aftertaste. It’s ready to drink. This wine is fruity and soft, with hints of citrus and 85 de France). This wine is soft and creamy, Chemin Des Vins. —R.V. herbal flavors. Its acidity is bright and attractive. with a layer of herbal fruitiness. As the name indi- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Drink now. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. cates, the grapes come from near two seas (mers): abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Sauvignon Blanc from the Atlantic and Viog- Florent Descombe NV Sauvignon Blanc (Vin nier from the Mediterranean. The combination is 86 de France). This warm-climate Sauvignon Villebois 2016 Loupart Le Petit Sauvignon refreshing and attractively, with a balance of crisp Blanc is soft and very fruity, with the merest hint 84 Blanc (Vin de France). From a Loire Valley- fruit and a soft texture. Highland Imports, LLC. of herbal character. Its juiciness, acidity and peach based producer, this wine is crisp and cool. It has —R.V. flavors are refreshing. DHI Selections. —R.V. herbal touches and lively, citrusy acidity. Drink abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 12% Price: $16 now. Highland Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Gabriel Meffre 2015 La Châsse Sauvignon- Fournier Père et Fils 2016 Sauvignon Blanc 85 (Vin de France). This typical 85 (Vin de France). This is a soft, lightly earthy Vinadeis 2016 Le Val Sauvignon Blanc (Vin blend from southwest France draws on the intensely style of wine produced from grapes from across the 84 de France). This warm style of Sauvignon herbal character of both grapes. It’s crisp, perfumed Loire Valley. It has a strong herbal character and Blanc has easygoing acidity and gooseberry fruit fla- and refreshingly fruity, making it a great apéritif. a touch of grapefruit. Drink now. David Milligan vors. It’s lightly tangy, with a bright, crisp texture. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Selections. —R.V. Vinadeis Americas USA. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $10 abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $12

Gabriel Meffre 2016 La Châsse Sauvignon Gérard Bertrand 2016 Perles de Sauvignon ROSÉS 85 Blanc (Vin de France). This warm style of 82 Blanc (Vin de France). This wine has the Sauvignon Blanc has apricot and citrus flavors. lightest possible taste. Its hints of green fruit, light, Laurence Féraud 2016 Pink Pégau Rosé (Vin Packed with fruit and with refreshing acidity, it citrusy acidity and crisp aftertaste are barely dis- 89 de France). This is made from 80% Cin- makes a fine apéritif. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. cernible. Drink now. USA Wine West. —R.V. sault, 10% Grenache and 10% . It has a Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $19 deep pink hue and smells more like a red wine than abv: 12% Price: $10 many rosés, with hints of smoked meat, bold notes of garrigue and just a bit of berry-like fruit. It’s full Saget la Perrière 2016 La Petite Perrière Sau- VIOGNIER bodied, complex and savory—a fine rosé to serve 85 vignon Blanc (Vin de France). This is a soft, with grilled meats. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C. simple, light and fruity wine. Its lively acidity is Maison de la Villette 2016 Viognier (Vin de abv: 13% Price: $21 refreshing and crisp. It has a fragrant perfume and 87 France). Classic Viognier apricot flavors are is ready to drink. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. prominent in this ripe, full wine. It’s as poised as it Florent Descombe NV Syrah Rosé (Vin de abv: 12.5% Price: $12 is rich—full of fruit, with a warm, rounded after- 87 France). This rosé is warm and soft, with taste. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. an attractive perfume and lively acidity to balance. Villebois 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de —R.V. Its red berry fruit is finished with a touch of spice 85 France). Made from Loire Valley fruit, this abv: 13% Price: $10 that gives a final lift to the smooth vanilla-inflected has the tangy, herbal character typical of cool-cli- aftertaste. DHI Selections. —R.V. mate wines. Drink now. House of Burgundy. —R.V. Patriarche Père et Fils 2016 Viognier (Vin abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 11.5% Price: $11 83 de France). This is a soft, gentle wine, with hints of peaches and apricots and a tangy aftertaste. Vignobles Despagne 2016 Le Mythe Vindivin 2016 La Belle Saison Sauvignon Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. 87 d’Amphorie Rosé (Vin de France). One of a 85 Blanc (Vin de France). This crisp, clean and abv: 12.5% Price: $10 range of wines produced by the Bordeaux-based zesty wine is lightly herbal and immediately appeal- Despagne family, this is a blend of Bordeaux grape ing. It’s full of citrus and gooseberry flavors and is varieties. It’s attractive and fruity, with crisp red ready to drink. Lionstone International. Best Buy. WHITE BLENDS currant notes and a refreshing layer of acidity. Drink —R.V. now. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $10 Vignobles Despagne 2015 Biface (Vin abv: 12% Price: $20 88 de France). This attractive wine brings L. Tramier & Fils 2016 Romantic Sauvignon together grassy acidity, white fruit flavors and a Le Val 2016 Grenache Rosé (Vin de France). 84 Blanc Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France). This warm, rounded character. There’s a crisp edge to its 86 This is a well-balanced and approachable ripe, tropical fruit-driven style of Sauvignon Blanc rosé, with pretty tones of fresh peony and straw- berry tops, grounded by fruitier notes of water-

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 melon and white currant. The palate is light and Patriarche Père et Fils 2016 Syrah Rosé (Vin nins and juicy acidity. Its soft, rounded aftertaste zippy with acidity, its short, clean finish carrying an 84 de France). This perfumed, spicy wine has makes it easy and warm. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. impression of lime zest. Drink now. Best Buy. —L.B. crisp red fruit and acidity. Light and with a soft abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $11 aftertaste, it’s attractive and ready to drink. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. Vinadeis 2016 Le Val Pinot Noir (Vin de Saget la Perrière 2016 La Petite Perrière abv: 12% Price: $10 85 France). Tannins predominate over fruit in 86 Pinot Noir Rosé (Vin de France). This 100% this closed and tight wine. It should soften a little Pinot Noir rosé is ripe and full of red fruit, with a with time, so look for its red cherry fruit from the touch of caramel. It shows an attractive streak of PINOT NOIR end of 2017. Vinadeis Americas USA. —R.V. acidity on the finish. Esprit du Vin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 L. Tramier & Fils 2016 Tramier Pinot Noir (Vin 88 de France). This sophisticated and styl- Florent Descombe NV Pinot Noir (Vin de Vinadeis 2016 Le Val Grenache Rosé (Vin de ish Pinot Noir from the south of France was made 84 France). This wine is lightly structured 86 France). This is an easy, fruity wine made a Burgundy producer. It has fine tannins, juicy red with tannins and shows red berry and cherry fruit, from Grenache. It has a clean, bright character, cherry-driven acidity and a warm, ripe aftertaste. although with little varietal character. It’s attrac- reflecting its red currant fruitiness and crispness. Vitis Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. tively juicy due to its acidity and perfumed after- Vinadeis Americas USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 taste. Drink now. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Eric Louis 2016 Alphonse Dolly Les Doigts Domaine la Colombette 2016 Notorious Pink 87 d’Or de Dolly Pinot Noir (Vin de France). This Bougrier 2016 Alain de la Treille Pinot Noir 85 Rosé (Vin de France). Rose gold in color, this cool-climate Pinot Noir is soft and gentle. Its ripe 83 (Vin de France). While this is soft and fruity, rosé smells fresh and inviting, with pleasant under- tannins and cherry flavors are both lightly struc- it lacks all varietal resemblance. Drink it as a ripe ripe strawberry, mango and citrus zest scents. The tured and juicy. Although still young, it’s ready to red rather than as a Pinot Noir. Kysela Père et Fils. palate is similarly light-footed, yet ripe tropical drink. Chemin Des Vins. —R.V. —R.V. fruit tones lend some substance and richness. BH abv: 12% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Group USA. —L.B. abv: 11.5% Price: $17 Patriarche Père et Fils 2015 Pinot Noir (Vin Gabriel Meffre 2016 La Châsse Pinot Noir 87 de France). For full review see page 14. Best 82 (Vin de France). This is a thin, fruity, simple Gabriel Meffre 2016 La Châsse Syrah Rosé Buy. wine with some red cherry flavors. Acidity and a 85 (Vin de France). Syrah-like aromas make abv: 12% Price: $10 touch of tannin completes the picture. Classic Wine this an attractive, soft wine. Its red berry fruit and Imports, Inc. —R.V. balanced acidity are well in place for warm-weather Barton & Guestier 2016 Bistro Pinot Noir abv: 12% Price: $10 drinking. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. 86 (Vin de France). This ripe, cherry-flavored abv: 12.5% Price: $10 wine has touches of toasty spice from wood aging. Villebois 2016 Pinot Noir (Vin de France). It’s smooth and soft, with juicy acidity that offsets 82 Spicy with strong toasty flavors, this is a La Vieille Ferme 2016 Rosé (Vin de France). its rounded texture. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V. wood-dominated wine. Fleeting glimpses of fruit 85 This is a pale, light-bodied rosé with aro- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 show behind its barricade of oak-derived flavors. mas and flavors reminiscent of underripe peach and It might soften, but the balance is wrong. House of melon. It’s clean, dry and even a bit austere on the Doudet Naudin 2016 Pinot Noir (Vin de Burgundy. —R.V. finish, making it a fine apéritif. Vineyard Brands. 86 France). The Savigny-lès-Beaune-based abv: 13% Price: $12 —J.C. producer shows his Pinot Noir skills with this wine. abv: 13% Price: $11 It’s generous, with red plum flavor, light wood-aging notes, ripe tannins and crisp acidity. It’s rounded MERLOT Sacha Lichine 2016 Single Blend Rosé (Vin de and ready to drink. Fine Terroirs LLC. —R.V. 85 France). Produced from Languedoc grapes abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Florent Descombe NV Merlot (Vin de France). by the Château d’Esclans team in Provence, this is 87 This is a smooth, ripe and generous wine an easy, open wine with both red berry richness and Maison de la Villette 2016 Pinot Noir (Vin de befitting southern Merlot. It has just the right delicious acidity Drink now. Shaw-Ross Interna- 85 France). This ripe, structured wine is full amount of acidity, black currant fruitiness and a tional Importers. —R.V. of cherry flavors and crisp acidity. Spice and dark smoky aftertaste. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12 chocolate notes make an appearance, but the wine abv: 13% Price: $16 is mainly about perfumed fruit. Monsieur Touton Tussock Jumper 2016 Grenache Rosé (Vin de Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. Patriarche Père et Fils 2015 Merlot (Vin de 85 France). With its pale color, this looks like a abv: 13% Price: $10 86 France). Black fruit and soft tannins yield a Provence rosé. It’s soft and fruity, with spice, juicy wine that is rounded with some attractive texture. red currant flavors and fine acidity at the end. Tri- Saget la Perrière 2016 La Petite Perrière Its ripe black currant fruitiness is lifted by its crisp Vin Imports. —R.V. 85 Pinot Noir (Vin de France). This light, cool- acidity. Drink now. Barton & Guestier USA. Best abv: 12.5% Price: $12 climate Pinot Noir is crisp with red currant fruit Buy. —R.V. and herbal-tinged acidity. It has a zesty character abv: 13% Price: $10 Bougrier 2016 Alain de la Treille Le Rosé (Vin that keeps it lively and tight. Drink now. Esprit du 84 de France). Based on Loire Valley grapes, Vin. —R.V. Vinadeis 2016 Le Val Merlot (Vin de France). this wine is crisp and cleanly fruity. It has pleasant abv: 13% Price: $12 85 The sunshine of the Languedoc comes red berry fruit and a cool draft of acidity. Drink now. through in this wine’s warm, soft fruit. A touch of Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. Tussock Jumper 2015 Pinot Noir (Vin de acidity and a backdrop of tannins give it contrast abv: 12% Price: $12 85 France). This fruity red wine has firm tan-

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and a fine, ready-to-drink character. Vinadeis vignon. It’s fruity, with strawberry jelly flavor, and Americas USA. —R.V. should be drunk immediately. DHI Selections. —R.V. OTHER RED WINES abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Domaine des Terrisses 2015 Le Monde en Parle Gabriel Meffre 2015 La Châsse Merlot (Vin de Vinadeis 2016 Le Val Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Prunelard (Vin de France). Prunelard (or 84 France). The is a soft, gentle wine with ripe 84 (Vin de France). This stalky wine has black Prunelart) is a Gaillac grape that had almost disap- berry fruit. Minimal tannins are embedded in its currant fruit and touches of spice and toast. Acidity peared. Revived by a few enterprising producers, fruitiness and rounded texture. Drink now. Classic and tannins are present, offering texture and a crisp it produces a distinctly fruity, aromatic wine. This Wine Imports, Inc. —R.V. finish that make it approachable for drinking now. bottling’s firm edge of tannins and juicy acidity con- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Vinadeis Americas USA. —R.V. tribute structure and intense fruitiness. Still burst- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 ing with youth, it should be aged for another year. M. & J-F Bertrand 2015 Fleur de Carbonnel Drink from 2018. Wine Traditions. —R.V. 84 Merlot (Vin de France). This wine is soft and Patriarche Père et Fils 2015 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 12.5% Price: $23 smooth. Its juicy black currant character makes it 82 gnon (Vin de France). This extracted wine instantly attractive and drinkable now. MHW, Ltd. has too hard an edge for the Vin de France category. Bougrier 2016 Alain de la Treille Cabernet —R.V. Softer, more accessible black currant fruit is just 88 Franc (Vin de France). This is a fine, ripe, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 hinted at underneath all its structure. Barton & spicy and perfumed wine. It’s blackberry fruit and Guestier USA. —R.V. soft tannins give it structure as well as delicious abv: 13% Price: $10 fruitiness. The aftertaste is balanced with fine acid- MALBEC ity. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Gabriel Meffre 2016 Wild Pig Malbec (Vin de RED BLENDS 87 France). This well-structured wine strikes a Florent Descombe NV Syrah (Vin de France). good balance between tannins and blackberry fruit- Gérard Bertrand 2014 Kosmos (Vin de 87 This spicy, strongly perfumed wine is full of iness. A touch of dark chocolate comes through to 90 France). This wood-aged blend of seven fruit and juicy acidity. It’s dry and structured, with underline its ripe structure. It’s ready to drink. DHI grape varieties is sourced from biodynamic vine- a firm backdrop of tannins. It will be great for the Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. yards. It’s richly structured and dense, with fine winter. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10 tannins and bold red plum fruit. Balanced, with a abv: 13% Price: $16 crisp aftertaste, it’s ready to drink. USA Wine West. Les Domaines Auriol 2016 Le Réveil Malbec Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Florent Descombe NV Grenache (Vin de 86 (Vin de France). This is Malbec in a South abv: 13.5% Price: $25 86 France). This Grenache is deeply colored. American style: soft, with ripe and gentle berry Its flavor has the right spice and rounded character. fruit. It has a light structure and plenty of acidity on Maison de la Villette 2015 Grenache-Syrah- Plenty of acidity keeps it crisp while a hint of pep- the finish. Knows Imports.Best Buy. —R.V. 88 Mourvèdre (Vin de France). For full review per adds interest. DHI Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $7 see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $10 Gabriel Meffre 2016 Fat Bastard Malbec (Vin 85 de France). Bright red fruit highlights this Vignobles Despagne 2015 L’Onde Rythmique CORSICA soft wine. Acidity and hint of stalky tannins give its 88 Lunaire (Vin de France). From the warm red berry flavors a boost. It’s easygoing and ready to 2015 vintage, this wine is soft, ripe and fruity. Made CORSE WHITE WINES drink. The Winebow Group. Best Buy. —R.V. from 75% Cabernet Franc, it has an attractive spicy abv: 13% Price: $10 perfume. With its blackberry flavor and gentle acid- Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté 2016 ity, it’s generous and ready to drink. Total Wine & 90 Domaine Petroni Vermentino (Corse). From More. —R.V. vineyards on the east coast of Corsica, near Lake CABERNET SAUVIGNON abv: 13% Price: $20 Diana, this bright Vermentino has a delicate per- fume and a tangy edge. Pear and crisp apple fla- L. Tramier & Fils 2015 Romantic Cabernet Château de Brigue NV Rouge Héritage (Vin de vors dominate the palate. Drink now. T. Elenteny 87 Sauvignon (Vin de France). This oddly 85 France). This is an earthy, rustic wine with Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. named Cabernet Sauvignon is fine. It has light tan- tannins that set its black fruit firmly in place. Juicy abv: 12% Price: $25 nins, a juicy, stalky character, upfront black currant acidity and black currant flavor give it a lift on the fruit and balanced acidity. Drink now. Vitis Imports. finish. Drink from 2018. Compass Wines & Spirits Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté 2016 Best Buy. —R.V. LLC. —R.V. 90 Domaine Vetriccie Vermentino (Corse). This abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $18 balanced wine shows a delicate flora, white flower character as well as a crisp, tight acidity. Citrus fla- Les Alliés 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Vin de Vinadeis 2016 Appetit de France (Vin de vors combine with white fruits and refreshing acid- 86 France). This wine has a fine structure, with 85 France). This Mediterranean blend of Syrah ity. The wine is ready to drink. T. Elenteny Imports. some dusty tannins and fresh acidity that keep its and Grenache is soft and open. It has the lightest Editors’ Choice. —R.V. black currant fruit crisp. The aftertaste is rich and touch of tannin, adding texture to its blackberry abv: 12.5% Price: $20 packed with fruitiness. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. fruit and crisp acidity. It finishes with an attractive abv: 13% Price: $13 perfumed character. Vinadeis Americas USA. Best Clos Poggiale 2016 Vermentino (Corse). This Buy. —R.V. 89 delicious, refreshing wine has crisp acid- Florent Descombe NV Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 12.5% Price: $10 ity and bright red apple fruit. Shot through with 84 (Vin de France). Simple and fruity yet lack- with zesty lemon character, it finishes with a waft ing in acidity, this is a soft style of Cabernet Sau-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 of white floral perfume. Drink now. Gabriella Fine very crisp and attractive. Drink now. T. Elenteny lucciu and Sciaccerellu, this wine is pale—almost Wines. —R.V. Imports. —R.V. white in color. It has delicious crisp acidity, a light abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $19 texture and a fine, perfumed aftertaste. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté 2016 Domaine Vetriccie 2016 Rosé (Corse). This abv: 12% Price: $16 89 Domaine Santa Guiletta Vermentino (Corse). 88 blend, dominated by ripe Niellucciu (the This fine Vermentino recalls fresh sea air. With its Corsican name for Sangiovese), is smooth while Les Vins Bréban 2016 Domaine Casa Rossa salty tang, lively acidity and great fruitiness, it is remaining crisp and light. It shows delicious red 86 Rosé (Ile de Beauté). This crisp, lively blend ready to drink. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. fruit, with a tang of lemon zest and a touch of pep- of Niellucciu (Sangiovese) and Grenache is deli- abv: 12% Price: $23 per. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. ciously refreshing. Its acidity and orange fruitiness abv: 12% Price: $18 are lifted by its tight texture and bright aftertaste. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. ILE DE BEAUTÉ WHITE WINES Domaine Campu Vecchiu 2016 Rosé (Corse). abv: 11.5% Price: $12 87 This wine comes from a large family-owned Domaine de Terra Vecchia 2016 Vermentino- estate on the island’s east coast. It’s loaded with Domaine Vetriccie 2016 Rosé (Ile de Beauté). 88 Chardonnay (Ile de Beauté). In this attrac- bright fruit, crisp acidity and a rounded, ripe red 85 This wine comes from a large 300-acre tive blend, perfumed Vermentino is filled out by berry-inflected aftertaste. Drink now. Misa Imports. estate on the island’s east coast. It has subtle rasp- broad, ripe Chardonnay. The result is a wine that, —R.V. berry fruit and plenty of acidity. With its crisp while light, also has a rich character. Full of fruit, abv: 12% Price: $NA aftertaste, filled out with a touch of caramel, it’s it’s ready to drink. Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. ready to drink. T. Elenteny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Domaine Petroni 2016 Rosé (Corse). In a very abv: 12% Price: $10 87 Corsican style, this is a totally crisp blend Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté 2016 of Nieillucciu, Sciaccarellu and Grenache. The first Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté 2016 87 Domaine Vetriccie (Ile de Beauté). The Char- grape lends intense acidity while adding red cur- 85 Marestango Rosé (Ile de Beauté). Sourced donnay in this blend with Vermentino creates a rant and orange fruitiness. Drink now. T. Elenteny from vineyards on the east coast of Corsica, this smooth, unctuous texture. Acidity and richness Imports. —R.V. attractive, fruity wine is made from 100% Sciacca- combine to bring out citrus and apricot flavors. The abv: 12% Price: $25 rellu. Its lively, light and crisp red currant and end delivers a zesty, mineral tang. Drink now. T. lemon flavors make it ready to drink. T. Elenteny Elenteny Imports. —R.V. Domaine Alzitana 2016 Rosé (Corse). This Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13 86 wine is crisp with intense acidity and red abv: 12% Price: $10 currant fruitiness. With its light spice and bright Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté aftertaste, it’s ready to drink. It comes from a fam- Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté 2016 86 2016 Domaine Barcelo Vermentino (Ile de ily-owned estate on the east coast of the island. T. 85 Terra Santa Rosé (Ile de Beauté). This light, Beauté). This light, lively and spicy wine has gin- Elenteny Imports. —R.V. fruity wine is a perfect summer apéritif. With a ger and nutmeg flavors backed by a mineral texture abv: 12% Price: $25 crisp texture and attractive red fruit, it’s lively and and crisp, citrusy acidity. It’s ready to drink. Hand refreshing. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports. Best Picked Selections. —R.V. Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté 2016 Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA 85 Terra Corsa Rosé (Corse). This light, crisp abv: 12% Price: $10 and fruity wine dances in the glass. With the acidity Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté 2016 from Niellucciu very present, it’s lively and bright, Union de Vignerons de l’Île de Beauté 2016 86 Terra Santa (Ile de Beauté). This is a deli- with a delicious final tang. Drink now. T. Elenteny 83 Terra d’Ortolo Rosé (Ile de Beauté). This cately perfumed wine that packs a punch of refresh- Imports. —R.V. wine is light and smooth. It has a crisp edge and ing fruitiness. It has intense, crisp acidity and ripe abv: 12% Price: $15 hints of red berries, although the fruit seems dilute. apricot and lemon flavors. It’s textured and ready to Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. drink. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 12% Price: $13 ILE DE BEAUTÉ ROSÉS

Domaine de Terra Vecchia 2016 Tentation ILE DE BEAUTÉ RED WINE CORSE ROSÉS 88 by Renucci Rosé (Ile de Beauté). With its designer white bottle, this is obviously a statement Domaine de Terra Vecchia 2015 Nielluciu-­ Clos Poggiale 2016 Rosé (Corse). Made from wine. Yet, it’s also deliciously fruity and crisp. With 87 Merlot (Ile de Beauté). Despite its low alco- 88 100% Niellucciu (the Corsican name for bright red fruit and a citrusy tang, it’s lively and hol, this is a rich and spicy wine. It has black currant Sangiovese), this attractive wine is ripe and softly perfumed. Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. and black plum fruit and delicious acidity. Merlot textured. It has plenty of acidity, but its fruitiness abv: 11% Price: $NA acts as a softening grape for the firm, crisp Nielluc- is smooth—full of strawberry flavors and a tangy ciu. Drink now. Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. aftertaste. Drink now. Gabriella Fine Wines. —R.V. Domaine de Terra Vecchia 2016 Niellucciu- abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 11.5% Price: $NA 87 Syrah Rosé (Ile de Beauté). This light wine dances in the glass. It’s a perfect summer sipper Domaine Santa Giuletta 2016 Rosé (Corse). with its acidity and bright red fruit. The crisp tex- OTHER FRANCE 88 From a domaine on the eastern coast of ture makes it just right as an apéritif or with shell- Corsica in its seventh generation of family own- fish. Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. MEDITERRANÉE ROSÉS ership, this is a lively, fruity wine with a fine mix abv: 11.5% Price: $NA of red currant and apricot fruit. It’s warm while Franck & Olivier Mousset 2016 Tendance Les Vins Bréban 2016 Alivetto Rosé (Ile de 88 Caladoc Rosé (Mediterranée). Made from 87 Beauté). A blend of two local grapes, Niel- Caladoc, a grape variety created in 1958 by cross-

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ing Grenache and Malbec, this medium-bodied rosé citrus flavors and a tangy texture. Drink now. Mon- and a peppr notes alongside velvety tannins. Enjoy is restrained in style, with ginger and citrus notes sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. through 2021. Premium Brands. Best Buy. —K.O. accenting strawberry fruit. It’s dry and refreshing abv: 11.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $14 on the finish. Drink now. Saranty Imports. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $17 Donnafugata 2015 Sherazade Nero d’Avola SICILY 89 (Sicilia). Made entirely from Nero d’Avola, Marrenon 2016 Les Grains Rosé de Merlot this opens with ripe dark-skinned berry, exotic 86 (Mediterranée). This medium-pink rosé NERO D’AVOLA spice and blue flower scents. The straightforward, shows some heft but is mostly about refreshment. juicy palate delivers fleshy black cherry, blackberry Passion fruit and peach notes give way to citrus zest Curto 2014 Fontanelle Nero d’Avola (Eloro). and white pepper notes alongside firm, refined tan- on its crisp, vibrant finish. Drink now. USA Wine 92 Made entirely from Nero d’Avola, this deli- nins. Enjoy through 2019. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Imports. Best Buy. —J.C. cious wine opens with ripe black plum, carob and —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Mediterranean brush aromas. The smooth, chewy abv: 13.5% Price: $20 palate doles out layers of juicy blackberry, ripe Maison Marcel 2016 Rosé (Mediterranée). Morello cherry, clove and white pepper flavors. A Feudo Maccari 2014 Saia Nero d’Avola 85 Don’t be fooled by this wine. Although it licorice note closes the finish while fine-grained 89 (Sicilia). This Nero d’Avola opens with looks like a typical dry Provence rosé, it’s medium tannins provide the framework. Enjoy through mature black-skinned berry, violet and leather sweet. With Black Muscat in the blend, it’s soft and 2022. Premium Brands. —K.O. aromas. The firm, juicy palate doles out ripe black- perfumed, its sweetness balanced by acidity. Park abv: 13.5% Price: $29 berry, dried cherry and mocha flavors while asser- Street Imports. —R.V. tive tannins give it a firm, astringent finish. Drink abv: 12% Price: $12 Feudo Principi di Butera 2014 Deliella Nero 2018–2023. Kobrand. —K.O. 92 d’Avola (Sicilia). This Nero d’Avola opens abv: NA Price: $39 Ravoire et Fils 2016 Domaine des Bellugues with mature black cherry, cinnamon and toasted 84 Rosé (Mediterranée). From a small family almond aromas while the fresh, structured palate Feudo Montoni 2012 Vrucara Nero d’Avola estate named for the fireflies that live around the delivers juicy blackberry, raspberry jam and white 89 (Sicilia). Made from Nero d’Avola from vineyard, this is crisp, with enough fruitiness to pepper notes. Fresh acidity and polished tannins old, pre-phylloxera vines, this opens with subdued balance the acidity. It’s light, refreshing and ready lend balance and a smooth texture. Enjoy through violet, leather and underbrush aromas. The dense, for warm-weather enjoyment. Cavatappi Distribuz- 2024. Zonin USA. —K.O. structured palate evokes blackberry jam, vanilla ione. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $90 and licorice. Enjoy through 2021. Wilson Daniels abv: 13% Price: $8 Ltd. —K.O. Cusumano 2014 Sàgana Tenuta San Gia- abv: 14% Price: $42 90 como Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This elegant VIN DE SAVOIE ROSÉS and savory Nero d’Avola offers cassis, blue flower Le Casematte 2015 Nero d’Avola (Terre Sicil- and baking spice aromas. It’s a full-bodied expres- 89 iane). This Nero d’Avola opens with blue Philippe Viallet 2016 Gamay Rosé (Vin de sion of the grape, boasting ripe black cherry, black- flower and black-skinned berry aromas. The juicy 87 Savoie). From a number of small parcels of berry and black pepper hints alongside fine-grained palate doles out ripe black cherry, blackberry jam vines, this wine is intensely fruity—full of ripe red tannins. Drink through 2021. Terlato Wines Inter- and nutmeg flavors framed by smooth, polished tan- berry flavors. It has a tight, zesty character, while national. —K.O. nins. Enjoy soon to catch the succulent fruit. Emp- also having a richer side. Drink now. T. Elenteny abv: 14.5% Price: $45 son USA Ltd. Best Buy. —K.O. Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $15 Morgante 2013 Don Antonio Nero d’Avola 90 (Sicilia). This Nero d’Avola suggests mature MandraRossa 2014 Carthago Nero d’Avola Philippe Viallet 2016 Savoie Rosé (Vin de black-skinned berry, carob and toast on the nose. 89 (Sicilia). Blackberry, violet and leather aro- 86 Savoie). Made from 100% Gamay, this is Concentrated and chewy on the palate, it offers ripe mas rise from the glass in this firm Nero d’Avola. a crisp wine with attractive acidity, red currant black cherry, raspberry jam, clove and cocoa flavors Mature black cherry, mocha, licorice and tobacco fruit and a spicy aftertaste. Drink now. T. Elenteny framed by velvety, polished tannins. Thanks to its flavors are framed by fine-grained tannins on the Imports. —R.V. fruit richness, it’s not overwhelmed by the warmth palate. Enjoy through 2021. Palm Bay International. abv: 13% Price: $NA of evident alcohol. Enjoy through 2021. Leonardo —K.O. LoCascio Selections–The Winebow Group. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $26 abv: 15% Price: $41 WHITE WINES Tasca d’Almerita 2015 Lamùri Nero d’Avola Colosi 2016 Nero d’Avola (Terre Siciliane). 89 (Sicilia). Made entirely from Nero d’Avola, Philippe Viallet 2016 Savoie Blanc (Vin de 89 Made entirely from Nero d’Avola, this this juicy red opens with ripe black-skinned berry 90 Savoie). This blend of local white grape opens with black-skinned berry, sun-baked earth and Mediterranean scrub aromas. Fine-grained tan- varieties is full of mountain crispness and fresh- and Mediterranean brush aromas. It’s polished and nins underscore its blackberry jam, sage and vanilla ness. Zesty and tangy, its fruitiness is balanced by savory on the palate and offers juicy black cherry, flavors. Enjoy through 2020. Leonardo LoCascio a touch of minerality and refreshing acidity. Drink raspberry jam and white pepper notes alongside Selections–The Winebow Group. —K.O. now. T. Elenteny Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. smooth tannins. It’s made to be enjoyed young, so abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $15 drink soon. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $13 Valle dell’Acate 2014 Il Moro Nero d’Avola Daguet 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Atlantique). 89 (Vittoria). Ripe black-skinned berry, sun- 84 This wine includes grapes from a wide Curto 2014 Nero d’Avola (Eloro). This baked earth and cooking spice aromas lead the nose region that extends beyond Bordeaux. It’s a classic, 89 smooth red opens with blackberry, Medi- in this 100% Nero d’Avola. The firm palate offers light, herbal expression of Sauvignon Blanc with terranean scrub and carob aromas. The easy-drink- dried blackberry, licorice and leather notes along- ing, savory palate delivers ripe black cherry, clove

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 side fine-grained tannins. Enjoy through 2021. Tasca d’Almerita 2015 Regaleali Nero per note alongside smooth tannins. Enjoy soon. Vias Polaner Selections. —K.O. 88 d’Avola (Sicilia). This wine’s fruity aromas Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 of red cherry and strawberry carry over to its bright, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA juicy palate together with black pepper notes. It’s Alessandro di Camporeale 2015 Donnatà savory and easygoing, with round tannins that make MandraRossa 2016 Costa Dune Nero d’Avola 88 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This organically it ready to enjoy soon. Leonardo LoCascio Selec- 87 (Sicilia). Made entirely from Nero d’Avola, farmed Nero d’Avola opens with black-skinned tions–The Winebow Group. —K.O. this opens with mature black plum and violet berry, cooking spice and tilled soil aromas. The abv: 13.5% Price: $15 scents. The simple, juicy palate offers black cherry, medium-bodied, concentrated palate doles out ripe clove and raw almond flavors and smooth, ready- black cherry, raspberry jam and cinnamon notes Tenuta Rapitalà 2015 Alto Nero d’Avola to-drink tannins. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. while supple tannins offer easygoing support. Enjoy 88 (Sicilia). This Nero d’Avola opens with —K.O. through 2020. Panebianco. —K.O. ripe plum, black-skinned berry and vanilla aromas. abv: 14% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $16 The medium-bodied palate shows blackberry jam, espresso and tobacco flavors while close-grained Marilena 2015 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). Ceuso 2015 Scurati Nero d’Avola (Terre Sicil- tannins give the finish grip. Drink 2018–2022. 87 This 100% Nero d’Avola has blue flower, 88 iane). Made entirely from Nero d’Avola, this Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. black-skinned berry and Mediterranean scrub aro- opens with ripe black-skinned fruit, cooking spice abv: 13.5% Price: $23 mas. It’s easygoing and juicy, offering black cherry and Mediterranean scrub aromas. Dense black- and white pepper flavors alongside round tannins. berry jam, carob and anise flavors mark the palate, Tonnino 2015 Nero d’Avola (Terre Siciliane). Enjoy soon. Matchvino Marketing. —K.O. where they’re underscored by supple tannins. Drink 88 This Nero d’Avola offers blackberry, violet abv: 13% Price: $15 through 2020. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. and cooking spice scents. The easygoing palate doles abv: 13.5% Price: $16 out black cherry, blueberry jam and white pepper Stemmari 2015 Estate Grown Sustainably flavors alongside smooth tannins. Enjoy through 87 Farmed Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). For full review Donnafugata 2015 Sedàra Nero d’Avola 2019. Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. —K.O. see page 14. Best Buy. 88 (Sicilia). Made predominantly from Nero abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $10 d’Avola with the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, this offers black-skinned berry, Valle dell’Acate 2016 Tenuta Ibidini Nero Tenuta Rapitalà 2016 Campo Reale Nero graphite and baking spice aromas. The easygoing, 88 d’Avola (Sicilia). Mature black-skinned 87 d’Avola (Sicilia). This early-drinking Nero rounded palate yields juicy black cherry, prune berry, licorice and white pepper aromas lead the d’Avola opens with ripe black-skinned fruit, tilled and black pepper flavors alongside smooth tannins. nose of this fresh, juicy Nero d’Avola. The pal- soil and cooking spice aromas. Straightforward Enjoy through 2020. Folio Fine Wine Partners. ate recalls fleshy blackberry and black cherry jam, and savory, it delivers black cherry, blackberry and —K.O. rounded with smooth, ripe tannins. Enjoy soon. ground pepper flavors alongside round tannins. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Polaner Selections. —K.O. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Feudo Principi di Butera 2015 Nero d’Avola 88 (Sicilia). The nose opens with black- Valle dell’Acate 2013 Il Moro Nero d’Avola skinned berry, underbrush and toast aromas. It’s 88 (Vittoria). Made from 100% Nero d’Avola, CABERNET SAUVIGNON firm and fruity on the palate, with black cherry, this has ripe blackberry, tilled earth and clove aro- white pepper and mocha flavors framed by polished mas. The juicy palate offers blueberry jam, vanilla Tasca d’Almerita 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon tannins. Enjoy through 2020. Zonin USA. —K.O. and leather touches alongside velvety tannins. 92 (Contea di Sclafani). This full-bodied Cab- abv: 14% Price: $17 Drink through 2020. Polaner Selections. —K.O. ernet Sauvignon opens with ripe black currant, abv: 13.5% Price: $26 cedar and bell pepper scents. On the palate, expect Morgante 2014 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This concentrated dried Marasca cherry, tobacco and 88 wine opens with mature black plum, blue Valle dell’Acate 2013 Tanè Nero d’Avola (Vit- licorice flavors buttressed by firm, fine-grained flower and cooking spice aromas. The juicy, easy- 88 toria). This 100% Nero d’Avola opens with tannins. Drink through 2027. Leonardo LoCascio drinking palate delivers ripe blackberry and blue- ripe plum, toast and vanilla aromas that carry over Selections–The Winebow Group. —K.O. berry jam flavors, with a hint of pink peppercorn. to the dense palate together with blackberry jam, abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Velvety tannins provide smooth support. Enjoy licorice and mocha notes. Close-grained tannins through 2020. Leonardo LoCascio Selections–The give it a firm, astringent finish. Drink through 2021. Feudo Principi di Butera 2014 Cabernet Sau- Winebow Group. —K.O. Polaner Selections. —K.O. 88 vignon (Sicilia). Made entirely from Caber- abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $50 net Sauvignon, this opens with black currant, tilled soil and star anise aromas. The dense palate offers Patria 2013 Stella di Corleone Nero d’Avola Cantine Ermes 2015 Sirocco (Sicilia). Made black cherry, licorice and baking spice notes, with 88 (Sicilia). Ripe black plum, leather and 87 from 85% Nero d’Avola and 15% Cabernet dusty tannins that lend a firm finish. Drink through Mediterranean scrub aromas lead the nose. On Sauvignon, this suggests red plum, redcurrant and 2021. Zonin USA. —K.O. the round palate, smooth tannins support black- Mediterranean scrub on the nose. Those aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $17 berry jam, vanilla and sweet almond flavors. Enjoy carry over to the simple palate together with a bal- through 2020. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. samic note. Rounded tannins give it easygoing sup- Stemmari 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $24 port. Drink soon. Compli Beverage. —K.O. 86 (Sicilia). This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $14 smells of cassis, underbrush and vanilla. It’s easy- Stemmari 2015 Cantodoro Riserva (Sicilia). going and made to be enjoyed young, its black cur- 88 For full review see page 13. Colosi 2015 Nero d’Avola (Sicilia). This opens rant, licorice and cinnamon flavors smoothed with abv: 13.5% Price: $14 87 with tilled soil, Mediterranean brush and round tannins. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best black-skinned berry aromas. The round palate Buy. —K.O. offers black cherry, raspberry jam and a white pep- abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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Ceuso 2012 Red (Terre Siciliane). Made from Enjoy through 2023. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. SYRAH 89 50% Nero d’Avola, 30% Cabernet Sau- —K.O. vignon and 20% Merlot, this offers roasted coffee abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Feudo Maccari 2014 Maharis Syrah (Sicilia). bean, cassis and Mediterranean brush aromas. It’s 89 This Syrah opens with black-skinned fruit, both dense and assertively tannic, with ripe black Tasca d’Almerita 2013 Il Tascante Nerello tilled soil and cooking spice aromas. It’s soft and currant, mocha and vanilla flavors. Drink 2019– 90 Mascalese (Sicilia). This savory Nerello dense on the palate, offering ripe black currant, 2025. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. Mascalese leads with red cherry, raspberry and vanilla and black pepper flavors hemmed in with abv: 14.5% Price: $19 rosemary scents. The palate delivers red-skinned velvety tannins. Drink through 2021. Kobrand. berry, cinnamon and Mediterranean scrub notes —K.O. Cusumano 2014 Moà (Sicilia). A blend of within a frame of polished tannins and fresh acid- abv: 14% Price: $69 89 40% Nero d’Avola, 30% Cabernet Sauvi- ity. Enjoy through 2022. Leonardo LoCascio Selec- gnon and 30% Merlot, this opens with aromas of tions–The Winebow Group. —K.O. Alessandro di Camporeale 2015 Kaid Syrah black-skinned fruit, baking spice and Mediterra- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 88 (Sicilia). Made entirely from Syrah, this nean scrub. The dense palate delivers black currant, has mature black-skinned berry, cooking spice and bell pepper and tobacco alongside dusty tannins. Al-Cantàra 2014 La Fata Galanti Nerello Cap- smoky notes on the nose. The dense palate delivers You’ll also notice the heat of evident alcohol. Drink 88 puccio (Terre Siciliane). Made entirely from blackberry jam, vanilla and nutmeg flavotrs framed through 2020. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. Nerello Cappuccio, this offers cassis, Mediterranean by assertive tannins. Drink through 2020. Panebi- abv: 15% Price: $55 scrub and vanilla aromas. It’s straightforward and anco. —K.O. enjoyable, with raspberry, clove and white pep- abv: 14% Price: $30 Hauner 2015 Hierà (Terre Siciliane). Made per flavors framed by lithe tannins. Enjoy through 89 from 60% Nero d’Avola, 30% Alicante 2020. Vinotas Selections. —K.O. Feudo Principi di Butera 2015 Syrah (Sicilia). and 10% Nocera, this offers tobacco, violet and abv: 13% Price: $25 87 This dense and ripe Syrah offers mature black cherry aromas. The savory palate delivers black-skinned fruit, allspice and smoke tones. Its mature blackberry, carob and black pepper flavors Al-Cantàra 2015 Muddichi di Suli Nerello core of ripe black currant fruit is accented with a alongside velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Enjoy 86 Mascalese (Terre Siciliane). This Nerello confectionary note of vanilla and punctuated by through 2021. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Mascalese has Mediterranean herb, dark spice and rounded tannins. Enjoy soon. Zonin USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 orange peel aromas. Its simple, rather unusual pal- abv: 14% Price: $17 ate evokes strawberry, white pepper and lemon Hauner 2012 Antonello Rosso (Salina). Ripe alongside bright acidity and loose-knit tannins. 89 black plum, underbrush and carob aromas Drink soon. Vinotas Selections. —K.O. RED BLENDS lead the nose of this blend of 60% Nero d’Avola, abv: 13.5% Price: $23 30% Sangiovese and 10% Corinto. Its firm palate Le Casematte 2015 Peloro (Terre Siciliane). delivers ripe blackberry, black pepper and clove 92 This blend of 70% Nerello Mascalese and flavors, with a framework of chewy tannins. Drink OTHER RED WINES 30% Nocera offers ripe red-skinned berry, violet through 2022. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. and Mediterranean scrub aromas. The juicy, vibrant abv: 13.5% Price: $33 Valle dell’Acate 2016 Il Frappato (Vittoria). palate doles out crushed raspberry, red cherry, 90 This bright and fragrant wine opens with almond and citrus zest notes with bright acidity Tenuta Rapitalà 2014 Nuhar (Sicilia). Made red-skinned berry, rose petal and exotic spice aro- and refined tannins. Enjoy through 2025. Empson 88 from 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Nero mas. It’s juicy and savory, evoking strawberry, red USA Ltd. —K.O. d’Avola, this has mature black-skinned berry, cin- cherry and clove on the palate, with silky tannins abv: 13% Price: $20 namon and thyme aromas. The straightforward, and fresh acidity providing lift. Polaner Selections. linear palate shows dried black cherry, blackberry —K.O. Tasca d’Almerita 2013 Rosso del Conte (Con- jam and espresso notes alongside polished tannins. abv: 13% Price: $24 92 tea di Sclafani). Made from Nero d’Avola, Drink through 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Perricone and a small percentage of other grape Ltd. —K.O. Feudo Montoni 2015 del Core Perricone varieties, this full-bodied red opens with intense abv: 13.5% Price: $18 88 (Sicilia). Made from organically farmed ripe black-skinned berry, Mediterranean scrub, Perricone, this opens with black-skinned fruit, mint and tobacco aromas. The firm, savory palate Hauner 2014 Rosso (Salina). This blend of mocha and violet scents. Its sleek palate doles offers black cherry jam, mocha, licorice and black 87 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Nerello Masca- out ripe blackberry, cinnamon and ground pepper pepper flavors framed by fine-grained tannins. lese has game, black plum and orange peel aromas hints alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through Drink through 2025. Leonardo LoCascio Selec- that carry over to the straightforward palate. Pol- 2020. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. tions–The Winebow Group. —K.O. ished tannins give it a smooth texture. Drink soon. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Marilena Barbera 2015 Ciàfu Alicante (Menfi). Donnafugata 2012 Mille e una Notte (Terre 87 This Alicante leads with red-skinned berry, 91 Siciliane). This structured blend of Nero rose petal and cooking spice aromas that carry over d’Avola, Petit Verdot, Syrah and a small percent- NERELLO MASCALESE to the juicy, straightforward palate. They’re joined age of other grape varieties offers cassis, mocha by a gamy flavor and smooth tannins that leave an and underbrush aromas. The dense palate doles out Tascante 2014 Ghiaia Nera Nerello Mascalese easygoing impression. Enjoy soon. Matchvino Mar- prune, carob, licorice and pipe tobacco notes along- 91 (Sicilia). Made entirely from Nerello Masca- keting. Best Buy. —K.O. side velvety tannins. Enjoy through 2023. Folio Fine lese, this vibrant wine opens with blue flower, red- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Wine Partners. —K.O. skinned berry and thyme aromas. The fresh, juicy abv: 14% Price: $80 palate delivers red cherry, strawberry, cinnamon Stemmari 2015 Pinot Nero (Sicilia). Made and licorice flavors framed by fine-grained tannins. 87 entirely from Pinot Nero, this opens with red-skinned berry and cooking spice aromas. The

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 bright, straightforward palate delivers strawberry 2023–2043. Oliver McCrum Wines. Cellar Selec- tannins. Give it time to fully come together. Drink and cinnamon notes, with smooth tannins and fresh tion. —K.O. 2023–2043. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. acidity. Enjoy soon. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. abv: 14% Price: $75 abv: 14% Price: $50 Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $10 Brezza 2013 Sarmassa (Barolo). Fragrant Cordero di Montezemolo 2013 Monfall- 96 blue flower, dark spice, crushed herb and 94 etto (Barolo). Wild berry, aromatic herb, wild berry aromas are front and center on this crushed blue flower and exotic spice aromas lead WHITE WINES impressive, structured red. The lively, energetic pal- the way in this full-bodied wine. It delivers ripe ate offers cranberry, red cherry, licorice and ground but elegant Marasca cherry, cranberry, licorice and Tornatore 2016 Bianco (Etna). A few swirls clove flavors set against youthful, noble tannins and vanilla hints framed by taut, fine-grained tannins 93 of the glass release this white’s heady stone firm acidity. A tobacco note lingers on the finish. It’s that lend structure and finesse. Drink 2021–2033. fruit, Spanish broom and Mediterranean brush aro- still young and tightly wound but will blossom into Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. mas. Mirroring the nose, the vibrant palate delivers a beauty over the next decade. Drink 2023–2045. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 green apple, lemon, tangerine and white peach fla- Oliver McCrum Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. vors framed by crisp acidity. It has nice length and abv: 14% Price: $70 Curto Marco 2013 La Foia (Barolo). This a hint of ginger that caps the inish. Enotria Wine 94 wine’s new leather forest floor, menthol, Import. —K.O. Francesco Rinaldi 2013 Brunate (Barolo). pressed rose and exotic spice scents emerge in the abv: 13% Price: $20 95 This Barolo’s violet, rose, menthol and glass. Full-bodied and focused, the palate delivers wild berry aromas waft from the glass. It’s young layers of cherry, pomegranate, crushed herb, lico- Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2015 Bianco (Etna). and assertive but already shows great class and rice and cinnamon flavors. Bright acidity and youth- 92 Delicate Spanish broom, crushed stone and breeding, delivering succulent red cherry, crushed ful tannins provide balance and an ageworthy struc- orchard fruit aromas lead the nose of this wine. On strawberry, star anise and clove flavors framed by ture. Drink 2023–2038. August Wine Group. Cellar the palate, bright acidity underscores yellow apple, firm, tightly-wound but extremely refined tannins. Selection. —K.O. ripe pear and lemon drop notes while flinty acid- Fresh acidity balances it all out. Drink 2023–2043. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 ity energizes the finish. It’s loaded with finesse and Polaner Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O. promises to develop even more complexity with a abv: 14% Price: $62 Francesco Rinaldi 2013 Cannubi (Barolo). few more years of aging. Drink 2018–2022. de Gra- 94 New leather, pressed rose, violet, baking zia Imports LLC. —K.O. Germano Ettore 2013 Cerretta (Barolo). New spice and crushed herb are just some of the aromas abv: 12.5% Price: $22 95 leather, red berry, tobacco and menthol are you’ll find in this textbook Barolo. Firm yet loaded some of the aromas you’ll find in this powerfully with finesse, the palate offers red cherry, strawberry Firriato 2016 Le Sabbie dell’Etna Bianco structured but elegant wine. The firm palate delivers compote, cinnamon and clove notes set against a 89 (Etna). This wine’s white flower, apple, juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, licorice backdrop of youthfully austere tannins and bright pear and almond aromas carry over to its medium- and cinnamon flavors framed by noble, fine-grained acidity. A licorice note lingers on the finish. Give bodied palate, along with a hint of citrus peel. It’s tannins and bright acidity. Drink 2025–2045. Oli- it time to fully bloom. Drink 2023–2033. Polaner linear and fresh, with bright acidity and a saline ver McCrum Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Selections. —K.O. note on the close. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 14% Price: $66 abv: 13% Price: $20 Prunotto 2011 Bussia Vigna Colonnello Mauro Veglio 2013 Arborina (Barolo). This 95 Riserva (Barolo). Forest floor, new leather, 94 elegant, fragrant red boasts wild berry, bak- SWEET WINE eucalyptus and dried herb aromas lead the nose ing spice, menthol and aromatic herb aromas. Bal- while the structured, polished palate offers crushed anced and focused, the palate delivers crushed rasp- Donnafugata 2014 Ben Ryé (Passito di Pan- Marasca cherry, pomegranate, white pepper and lic- berry, red cherry, cinnamon and of vanilla flavors 93 telleria). Made from 100% dried Zibibbo orice flavors. Firm, refined tannins provide elegant framed by firm, polished tannins and bright acidity. grapes, this classic opens with intense support. Drink 2020–2030. Ste. Michelle Wine Drink 2020–2030. Total Wine & More. —K.O. raw apricot, date and orange marmalade aromas. It’s Estates. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $57 fresh, full-bodied and elegant on palate, with layers abv: 14% Price: $200 of ripe fig, tangerine zest, chestnut honey and euca- Mauro Veglio 2013 Castelletto (Barolo). This lyptus flavors that persist long into the finish. Folio Ascheri 2013 Ascheri (Barolo). This savory, 94 wine’s enticing rose, blue flower, menthol Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. 94 firmly structured, full-bodied red opens and herb scents come together in the glass. On the abv: 14.5% Price: $39/375 ml with subtle dark berry, rose petal, pipe tobacco taut, precise palate, tightly knit, refined tannins and crushed herb aromas. It delivers layers of juicy enwrap crunchy red cherry and juicy cranberry fla- Marasca cherry, black raspberry, cinnamon and vors. White pepper and clove notes add depth, while PIEDMONT clove flavors, buttressed by youthfully assertive bright acidity lends balance. Drink 2023–2035. but refined tannins and nicely balanced, with fresh Total Wine & More. —K.O. BAROLO acidity. Drink 2023–2033. Martignetti Companies. abv: 14.5% Price: $57 —K.O. Germano Ettore 2013 Prapò (Barolo). Pol- abv: 14.5% Price: $180 Mauro Veglio 2013 Gattera (Barolo). Dark- 97 ished and well structured, this vibrant, 94 skinned berry, exotic spice, blue flower and savory red hits all the high notes. It opens with Brezza 2013 Castellero (Barolo). Violet, iris, wild herb aromas take center stage in this Barolo. enticing red cherry, pressed rose, ground clove 94 perfumed berry, pine forest and baking Full-bodied and loaded with finesse, the taut, pre- and balsamic scents that follow through to the spice aromas mingle in this fragrant, precise wine. cise palate offers juicy red cherry, cranberry, star chiseled palate, along with crushed cranberry and The linear, focused palate offers cranberry, pome- anise and clove flavors framed by firm, fine-grained licorice notes. Firm but refined tannins and fresh granate, licorice and white pepper flavors alongside tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2023–2033. acidity lend impeccable balance and finesse. Drink a backbone of vibrant acidity and youthfully austere Total Wine & More. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $57

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Mirafiore 2013 Paiagallo (Barolo). New with ripe black cherry and a hint of baking spice. cherry, licorice and tobacco flavors alongside asser- 94 leather, dark berry, fragrant blue flower, It’s structured and surprisingly accessible, with tive, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2026. Oliver rose and baking spice aromas take shape in the rounded, velvety tannins. Drink 2018–2028. Enotec McCrum Wines. —K.O. glass. The smooth, delicious palate doles out juicy Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $110 raspberry, crushed black cherry, star anise and cin- abv: 14.5% Price: $68 namon flavors, with polished tannins and bright Palladino 2013 del Comune di Serralunga acidity. Drink 2023–2033. Domaine Select Wine & Batasiolo 2013 Boscareto (Barolo). Under- 90 d’Alba (Barolo). This wine’s new leather, Spirits. —K.O. 92 brush, new leather, menthol, culinary spice, pressed violet and orange zest aromas unfold in the abv: 14% Price: $100 dark fruit and toast aromas take center stage in glass. The vibrant, medium-bodied palate offers red this wine. The elegantly structured and linear pal- berry, baking spice and crushed herb flavors framed Ascheri 2013 Pisapola (Barolo). This wine’s ate delivers red cherry, strawberry, cinnamon and by bright acidity and firm, refined tannins. Enotec 93 forest floor, new leather, wild berry, clove white pepper flavors set against bright acidity and Imports, Inc. —K.O. and balsamic aromas lead the way, along with a taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2023–2033. Total abv: 14% Price: $49 heady whiff of violet. Its smooth, structured pal- Beverage Solution. —K.O. ate evokes dried black cherry, crushed raspberry, abv: 14% Price: $79 Sordo 2013 Monvigliero (Barolo). Deli- cinnamon and white pepper, while tightly knit, 90 cate aromas suggesting chopped herb, star polished tannins provide framework. Drink 2020– Mauro Veglio 2013 Barolo. Intense red cherry anise, new leather and a whiff of blue flower slowly 2030. Martignetti Companies. —K.O. 91 and violet aromas follow through to the emerge in the glass. The taut, ethereal palate shows abv: 14% Price: $120 firmly structured palate in this wine, along with sour cherry, raw strawberry, licorice and white pep- pomegranate, licorice and chopped herb notes. per notes hemmed in by firm acidity and youthful Cordero di Montezemolo 2013 Enrico VI Taut, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity pro- tannins. Drink 2023–2030. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. 93 (Barolo). This wine’s incense, French oak, vide the framework. Drink 2023–2033. Total Wine abv: 14% Price: $49 woodland berry and iris aromas slowly take shape & More. —K.O. in the glass. On the firmly structured, focused pal- abv: 14% Price: $37 Prunotto 2012 Bussia (Barolo). Red berry, ate, vanilla, menthol and espresso notes accent its 89 violet, leather and crushed culinary herb red cherry and pomegranate core. Close-grained Oddero 2013 Barolo. Menthol, aromatic herb, aromas unfold in this ripe and rounded wine. The tannins leave a firm, tight finish, needing time to 91 purple flower and new leather scents meld palate offers juicy red cherry, star anise and ground unwind. Drink 2023–2033. Omniwines Distribu- together in this wine. On the firm, focused, palate, sage flavors alongside solid, seasoned tannins. It’s tion. —K.O. clove, star anise and espresso hints back up Mar- already surprisingly accessible. Drink 2018–2027. abv: 14.5% Price: $108 asca cherry and cranberry flavors while tightly knit Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. but refined tannins and bright acidity provide sup- abv: 13.5% Price: $91 Germano Ettore 2013 del Comune di Ser- port. Soilair Selection. —K.O. 93 ralunga d’Alba (Barolo). Woodland berry, abv: 14% Price: $45 Fontanafredda 2013 Barolo. Pretty aro- dark spice, rose and balsamic notes waft from the 88 mas of violet, red berry and crushed herb glass. Vibrant, elegant and focused, it delivers Parusso 2013 Mariondino (Barolo). This lead the way. The bright, accessible palate offers crushed strawberry, red cherry and licorice flavors 91 wine’s red berry, grilled herb, blue flower and pomegranate, sour cherry and white pepper flavors on the palate, with firm, refined tannins and bright French oak aromas carry over to the firm palate, within a frame of solid tannins and vibrant acidity. acidity. Drink 2023–2033. Oliver McCrum Wines. along with sour cherry, vanilla, toast and star anise Drink through 2023. Palm Bay International. —K.O. —K.O. hints. It’s lean in body but also focused and racy. abv: 14% Price: $42 abv: 14% Price: $50 Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45 Parusso 2013 Barolo. This opens with red Oddero 2013 Brunate (Barolo). This opens 88 berry aromas and unusual whiffs of crushed 93 with alluring red berry, menthol, new Rocca Giovanni 2013 Ravera di Monforte dill and celery. Those green notes carry over to the leather, star anise and crushed herb scents. It’s 91 (Barolo). Rose, eucalyptus, espresso and taut, lean palate, with raw cherry, cranberry and elegantly structured, offering sour cherry, cran- exotic spice aromas lead into a linear, structured clove. Bracing, tightly wound tannins and firm berry, licorice and sage flavors set against firm, fine- palate offering sour cherry, pomegranate star anise acidity provide the backbone. Massanois Imports. grained tannins and fresh acidity. A hint of orange and roasted coffee flavors in this wine. Close- —K.O. zest closes the finish. Drink 2023–2033. Soilair grained tannins leave a firm, tight finish. Drink abv: 14% Price: $25 Selection. —K.O. 2023–2033. Zancanella Importing Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $120 abv: 14% Price: $45 Rivata 2012 Barolo. Fleshy, dark-skinned 88 berry, cooking spice and crushed herb Palladino 2013 Ornato (Barolo). This wine’s Sordo 2013 Parussi (Barolo). Red berry, scents lead the nose of this straightforward wine. 93 rose petal, herb, dark spice and woodland 91 aromatic herb, eucalyptus, leather and iris The medium-bodied, accessible palate offers juicy berry aromas slowly take shape, along with a whiff of scents come together in this. The tightly wound and black cherry, clove and cinnamon hints framed by new leather. The full-bodied, energetic palate deliv- linear palate offers crushed cherry, cranberry, cin- solid, rounded tannins. It’s rather evolved so enjoy ers juicy red cherry, cranberry, clove, cinnamon and namon and star anise flavors set against a backdrop sooner than later. Drink through 2022. Total Wine orange peel flavors while youthfully austere tannins of austere, fine-grained tannins and firm acidity. & More. —K.O. and vibrant acidity provide the framework. Drink Give it time to unwind and integrate. Drink 2018– abv: 14% Price: $33 2023–2033. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. 2043. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $66 abv: 14% Price: $49 Rocca Giovanni 2013 Mosconi (Barolo). 88 Espresso, French oak, exotic spice and wild Palladino 2013 Parafada (Barolo). Aromas Germano Ettore 2011 Lazzarito Riserva berry aromas lift out of the glass. The palate shows 93 suggesting underbrush, aromatic herb, vio- 90 (Barolo). Earthy underbrush, leather, little fruit richness, favoring instead oak-driven let, new leather and earthy game follow through to scorched earth, dark spice and toasted hazelnut spice, coffee bean, clove, powdered sage and sour the chewy, full-bodied palate in this wine, along aromas lead the way. The firm palate shows dried

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 cherry. Grainy, astringent tannins clench the finish. this elegant, vibrant red. The savory, focused palate nals the close. Drink 2020–2029. de Grazia Imports Zancanella Importing Co. —K.O. offers red cherry, tobacco, licorice and ground clove LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $75 flavors set against a backdrop of bright acidity and abv: 14% Price: $50 firm, refined tannins. Drink 2022–2034. Leonardo LoCascio Selections–The Winebow Group. —K.O. Boffa 2014 Barbaresco. Leather, crushed BARBARESCO abv: 14% Price: $56 92 mint, truffle, pressed violet and menthol aromas come together on the nose of this wine, with Albino Rocca 2014 Ronchi (Barbaresco). Musso 2014 Pora (Barbaresco). This wine’s a subtle hint of tobacco. The linear palate is juicy 96 This gorgeous wine’s nose offers a potpourri 94 grilled herb, dill, tobacco and violet aromas and loaded with finesse, offering red cherry, straw- of fragrant blue flowers, exotic spices, crushed unfold in the glass. The palate has nice length and berry, white pepper and clove notes held taut and herbs and wild berries. The palate delivers tart red balance, offering juicy red cherry, raspberry, smoke, balanced by tightly knit tannins and vibrant acidity. cherry, raspberry compote, orange zest and cin- star anise and game notes, with firm, noble tannins Glazer’s. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. namon flavors framed by firm, refined tannins and and fresh acidity. Panebianco. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30 bright acidity. A licorice note caps off the lingering abv: 14% Price: $38 finish. Drink 2022–2034. de Grazia Imports LLC. Boffa 2014 Pajè (Barbaresco). This wine’s Cellar Selection. —K.O. Carlo Giacosa 2014 Montefico (Barbaresco). 92 menthol, violet, white pepper and leather abv: 14.5% Price: $55 93 This tight and energetic wine opens with aromas meld together, along with a balsamic note. menthol, new leather, wild berry, blue flower and On the palate, tightly wound tannins and firm acid- Albino Rocca 2014 Angelo (Barbaresco). grilled herb aromas. The focused palate mirrors ity balance cranberry, sour cherry, crushed herb and 95 Earthy, enticing violet, pressed rose, new the nose, offering juicy sour cherry, cranberry, star star anise flavors. While still young and austere, it leather crushed mint and game aromas follow anise and clove flavors framed by youthfully asser- shows good mid-term aging potential. Drink 2022– through to succulent, savory palate, along with tive, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Siena 2029. Glazer’s. —K.O. Marasca cherry and cranberry notes. Star anise, Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50 white pepper and clove accents add depth while abv: 14% Price: $70 youthfully assertive, refined tannins and vibrant La Ca’ Nova 2014 Barbaresco. New leather, acidity provide an ageworthy framework. Drink La Ca’ Nova 2014 Montefico (Barbaresco). 92 menthol, crushed mint, red berry and dark 2022–2034. de Grazia Imports LLC. Cellar Selec- 93 This wine’s red berry, fragrant blue flower, spice aromas lead the way in this fragrant red. Chis- tion. —K.O. aromatic herb and new saddle leather scents lift out eled and loaded with energy, it delivers juicy Mar- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA of the glass. The firm palate offers juicy Marasca asca cherry, strawberry, white pepper, orange zest cherry, raspberry compote, cinnamon and anise and star anise flavors alongside firm, refined -tan Albino Rocca 2014 Ovello Vigna Loreto (Bar- notes set against tightly wound tannins and vibrant nins and vibrant acidity. Girasole Imports. Editors’ 95 baresco). Focused, fragrant and refined, acidity. Youthfully austere, it needs time to fully Choice. —K.O. this opens with camphor, new leather, crushed come together. Drink 2022–2034. Girasole Imports. abv: 14% Price: $40 herb, dark spice and balsamic aromas. The palate Cellar Selection. —K.O. impresses with succulent wild red berry, star anise, abv: 14% Price: $50 Luigi Oddero & Figli 2014 Rombone (Bar- tobacco and orange zest alongside firm acidity and 92 baresco). Star anise, new leather, eucalyp- tightly wound but refined tannins. Drink 2022– La Ca’ Nova 2014 Montestefano (Bar- tus, dark spice and woodland berry are just some 2032. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. 93 baresco). Aromatic herb, woodland berry, of the aromas you’ll find in this scented red. Its abv: 14.5% Price: $60 violet, citrus zest and tilled soil scents take shape firm and elegantly structured palate evokes Mar- in the glass. The succulent, linear palate doles out asca cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and clove. Boffa 2014 Ovello Nebbiolo (Barbaresco). cranberry, red cherry white pepper and star anise It’s young but balanced, with bright acidity and a 94 This enticing and alluring wine opens with flavors, bolstered by a backbone of firm, refined tan- backbone of refined tannins. Ionia Atlantic Imports, lovely crushed mint, new leather, iris and culinary nins and bright acidity. Girasole Imports. —K.O. LLC. —K.O. spice aromas. The savory palate shows juicy Mar- abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $59 asca cherry, ripe raspberry, cinnamon and pink pep- percorn flavors while firm, refined tannins and fresh Pertinace 2014 Nervo (Barbaresco). This Pertinace 2014 Barbaresco. For full review acidity provide balance and structure. A licorice 93 Barbaresco’s pressed violet, Asian spice, 92 see page 8. Editors’ Choice. note accents the finish. Glazer’s. —K.O. menthol and woodland berry aromas lift out of abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $50 the glass. Fresh, structured and elegant, the palate evokes juicy Marasca cherry, pomegranate, white Rivetto 2014 Marcarini (Barbaresco). For full Cascina delle Rose 2014 Rio Sordo (Bar- pepper and a blast of orange zest while youthfully 92 review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. 94 baresco). Leather, truffle, grilled herb, pur- assertive tannins and racy acidity provide support. abv: 14% Price: $41 ple flower and perfumed berry aromas take shape in Drink after 2024. MW Imports.Cellar Selection. this fragrant red. The vibrant palate is loaded with —K.O. Sottimano 2014 Pajorè (Barbaresco). With finesse, delivering red cherry, cranberry, cinnamon abv: 14% Price: $60 92 an enticing perfume of blue flower, berry, and clove flavors while nervous acidity and youth- menthol and new leather, this linear, vibrant and fully assertive, refined tannins provide support and Albino Rocca 2014 Montersino (Barbaresco). elegant wine offers red cherry, cranberry, white balance. A star anise note wraps up the finish. Drink 92 With a swirl, this wine’s enticing new pepper and clove flavors. Taut, fine-grained tannins 2022–2034. Polaner Selections. Cellar Selection. leather, eucalyptus, woodland berry and herb aro- and bright acidity provide structure while a salty —K.O. mas unfold in the glass. The taut and savory palate mineral note lingers on the finish. Giuliana Imports. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 offers sour cherry, crushed strawberry, star anise —K.O. and white pepper notes. Refined tannins and firm abv: 14% Price: $68 Giuseppe Cortese 2014 Rabajà (Barbaresco). acidity provide balance while a hint of coffee sig- 94 Balsam, leather, perfumed berry, pressed Albino Rocca 2014 Barbaresco. Red berry, blue flower and dark spice aromas lead the way in 91 blue flower, grilled herb and dark spice aro-

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mas lead the nose of this wine. The juicy and linear crushed herb and menthol scents. It’s bright and clove flavors framed by taut tannins and brisk acid- palate offers sour cherry, cranberry, ground clove elegant, offering raspberry, juicy Marasca cherry, ity, feeling just underripe. Tosco Wines. —K.O. and anise flavors framed by youthfully assertive but white pepper and clove flavors alongside polished abv: 14.5% Price: $45 refined tannins. Bright acidity lends balance. Drink tannins. A saline note signals the close. Wilson 2019–2026. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. Daniels Ltd. —K.O. Cascina Rabaglio 2014 Cà Grossa (Bar- abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $52 89 baresco). Violet, iris and hints of natural rubber and eucalyptus lead the nose. The bright Olek Bondonio 2014 Roncagliette (Bar- La Spinona 2012 Sorì Gepin (Barbaresco). palate offers red cherry, espresso, star anise and 91 baresco). This wine’s menthol, new leather, 90 Dried rose, baking spice, new leather and vanilla notes bolstered by close-grained tannins. blue flower and sage aromas lead the nose, along herb aromas mingle in the glass. The steady, ele- Lilium Imports. —K.O. with a whiff of toast. It’s taut and savory on the pal- gantly structured palate delivers crushed cherry, abv: 14% Price: $35 ate, offering crunchy red berry, star anise, ground raspberry compote and star anise flavors that linger clove and tobacco notes framed by youthfully asser- until a salty mineral note caps the finish. Refined Ceste 2014 Barbaresco. This opens with tive, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Tan- tannins provide support. Drink 2020–2027. Fred- 89 blue flower, new leather, crushed mint and aro River Imports LLC. —K.O. erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. underbrush aromas. On the taut, racy palate, white abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $38 pepper and tobacco notes underscore sour cherry and cranberry fruit alongside austere, fine-grained Cantina del Nebbiolo 2014 Barbaresco. New Michele Chiarlo 2014 Asili (Barbaresco). tannins. —K.O. 90 leather, red cherry and fresh herb aromas 90 Camphor, dried herb, leather and espresso abv: 14% Price: $NA follow through to the firmly structured palate, along aromas emerge as this vibrant red opens in the with cinnamon and white pepper notes. A young glass. The palate is firm with close-grained tan- Luca Bosio 2014 Barbaresco. This bright, and racy wine, it already boasts finesse thanks to nins and bright acidity, framing its Morello cherry, 89 elegant wine opens with wild berry, vio- taut, refined tannins. Monsieur Touton Selection vanilla, espresso and powdered sage flavors. let, cake spice and aromatic herb notes. The palate Ltd. —K.O. Kobrand. —K.O. delivers red cherry, cranberry, white pepper and abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $79 licorice flavors framed by taut, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. Cascina delle Rose 2014 Tre Stelle (Bar- Olek Bondonio 2014 Starderi (Barbaresco). abv: 14% Price: $37 90 baresco). This wine leads with new leather, 90 Crushed dill, forest floor and moist earth dark spice, iris and eucalyptus scents. Its linear, aromas lead this wine’s nose. Its racy palate shows Ada Nada 2014 Valeirano (Barbaresco). This slender palate offers sour cherry, pomegranate, red cherry, strawberry compote, licorice and clove 88 wine’s underbrush, toasted oak, coconut white pepper and ground clove—flavors that are flavors framed by youthful, fine-grained tannins and exotic spice aromas rise from the glass. The held taut by fine-grained tannins and racy acidity. and brisk acidity. A hint of tobacco marks the close. firm palate offers dried cherry, cranberry, clove and Polaner Selections. —K.O. Give this a few more years to mellow before drink- sage notes while assertive tannins clench the finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 ing. Tanaro River Imports LLC. —K.O. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $36 Cascina Morassino 2014 Ovello (Bar- 90 baresco). Menthol, new leather, blue flower Pertinace 2014 Marcarini (Barbaresco). This Alessandro Rivetto 2014 Barbaresco. This and sage aromas lead this wine’s nose, along with a 90 opens with balsamic aromas of camphor, 88 wine’s dark berry cinnamon, blue flower whiff of toast. Taut and savory, it offers crunchy red new leather, menthol and exotic spice. The tightly and truffle aromas come together in the glass. The berry, star anise, ground clove and a hint of tobacco wound palate offers Morello cherry, cranberry, taut palate shows Morello cherry, cranberry and on the palate. Youthfully assertive, fine-grained white pepper and grilled sage while assertive, close- white pepper notes alongside firm acidity and tannins and vibrant acidity lend structure. Tosco grained tannins provide firm support. MW Imports. somewhat grainy tannins. Nicola Biscardo Selec- Wines. —K.O. —K.O. tions. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $50

Ceretto 2014 Barbaresco. This Barbaresco’s Salvano 2014 Barbaresco. This savory red Batasiolo 2014 Barbaresco. Crushed herb, 90 leather, violet, crushed mint, coconut and 90 boasts star anise, blue flower, new leather, 88 red berry, dark spice, eucalyptus and a hint exotic spice aromas follow through to the palate, red berry and eucalyptus aromas. On the palate, of celery mingle together in the glass. On the aus- which is bright with red cherry and coffee notes. expect Marasca cherry, cranberry, cinnamon and tere, tightly wound palate, assertive, fine-grained Fine-grained tannins offer support while high- clove flavors set against firm tannins and racy acid- tannins support sour cherry and pomegranate fruit toned acidity lends balance. Leonardo LoCascio ity. Minu Import. —K.O. that’s juxtaposed with hints of espresso and anise. Selections–The Winebow Group. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55 Total Beverage Solution. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $51 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Ca’ del Baio 2014 Asili (Barbaresco). This Col dei Venti 2014 Tufoblu (Barbaresco). 89 wine’s subtle aromas suggest wild berry, Bel Colle 2014 Barbaresco. This wine leads 90 Leather, menthol, red berry and crushed violet and botanical herb while its taut palate offers 88 with culinary spice and menthol aromas. herb aromas lead the way in this youthfully vibrant sour cherry, cranberry, white pepper and orange On the tense palate, austere tannins carry tart cran- wine. Star anise and herb notes back up its core of zest flavors. Firm acidity and assertive tannins form berry, pomegranate, star anise and thyme hints into red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit. Taut, fine- the backbone. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. the finish, suggesting a few more years will help it grained tannins and racy acidity provide the frame- abv: 14.5% Price: $56 unwind. Drink after 2022. Quintessential Wines. work. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $32 Cascina Morassino 2014 Barbaresco. This abv: 14.5% Price: $45 89 intensely fragrant wine opens with violet, Elvio Cogno 2014 Bordini (Barbaresco). This woodland berry and star anise aromas. The racy Ceretto 2014 Asili (Barbaresco). Purple 90 fragrant red opens with violet, red berry, palate offers sour cherry, cranberry and ground 88 flower, perfumed berry, baking spice and

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 dried herb aromas unfold in the glass, along with a is structured by firm acidity and bracing tannins, brush and cake spice scents. The palate delivers hint of espresso. The tight palate shows sour cherry, feeling tight and austere. Premium Brands. —K.O. ripe Marasca cherry fruit with savory accents that unripe strawberry, clove, sage and roasted coffee abv: 14.5% Price: $38 recall ground pepper and star anise. It’s all bound by notes alongside close-grained, astringent tannins refined tannins and finishes on a lingering almond and racy acidity. Leonardo LoCascio Selections–The Vite Colte 2014 La Casa in Collina (Bar- note. Enjoy soon. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. Winebow Group. —K.O. 87 baresco). This wine’s crushed mint, men- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $181 thol, underbrush and iris aromas carry over to its nervous, racy palate, along with tart cherry and Conterno Fantino 2015 Dolcetto d’Alba. The Fontanafredda 2014 Coste Rubin (Bar- unripe strawberry. Tightly wound tannins and firm 88 aromas in this juicy Dolcetto suggest black 88 baresco). Initially closed, this releases sub- acidity provide the lean framework. Opera Wine cherry, violet and toasted almond while the palate dued aromas suggesting toasted nut, menthol, wild Imports. —K.O. offers ripe blackberry, white pepper and clove fla- berry and blue flower after a hearty swirl. The palate abv: 13.5% Price: $40 vors. Rounded tannins provide support. Enjoy soon. is equally shy, offering red cherry and white pepper Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. hints, with racy acidity and taut tannins that lend a Socré 2014 Barbaresco. Stewed prune aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $21 firm finish. Give it a few more years to unwind, and 86 mas carry over to the palate, along with raw drink after 2020. Palm Bay International. —K.O. sour cherry, camphor and espresso notes. It’s a tight Costa di Bussia 2016 Tenuta Arnulfo (Dol- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and astringent wine with bracing tannins. Estelle 88 cetto d’Alba). This opens with violet, red- Imports. —K.O. skinned berry and forest floor aromas. The juicy Musso 2014 Rio Sordo (Barbaresco). abv: 14.5% Price: $33 palate offers black cherry, white pepper and clove 88 Leather, menthol, crushed dill and cel- notes alongside polished tannins. It’s easy-drink- ery aromas lead the nose. On the tight palate, firm Pelissero 2014 Nubiola (Barbaresco). This ing and made to be enjoyed young. Siena Imports. acidity and close-grained tannins frame camphor, 85 opens with eucalyptus, dark spice and —K.O. vanilla, hazelnut, dried cherry and pomegranate fla- menthol aromas. The palate offers vanilla, cran- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 vors. Panebianco. —K.O. berry white pepper and toast flavors framed by firm abv: 14% Price: $38 acidity and tight, grainy tannins. Vinifera Imports. Giuseppe Cortese 2016 Dolcetto d’Alba. This —K.O. 88 juicy wine opens with intense violet, red- Piazzo Armando 2014 Barbaresco. This abv: 14% Price: $NA skinned berry and white pepper aromas. The savory 88 leads with woodland berry, blue flower and palate delivers red cherry and cooking spice flavors dried herb aromas. The palate is rather closed and Pelissero 2014 Tulin (Barbaresco). Toast, while polished tannins provide support. It’s made to austere but eventually reveals cranberry, pomegran- 85 camphor and Asian spice aromas carry over be enjoyed young, so drink soon. Leonardo LoCascio ate and crushed mint flavors through its frame of to the palate, along with raw cherry, coconut and Selections–The Winebow Group. —K.O. tightly wound tannins and vibrant acidity. Give this vanilla. Astringent tannins dry out the finish, leav- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 a few more years to loosen up. Drink after 2021. ing a lean impression that’s at once sweet and sour. Angelini Wine. —K.O. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. Marchesi di Barolo 2016 Madonna del Dono abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $NA 88 (Dolcetto d’Alba). Violet and cooking spice aromas lead the nose in this wine. The juicy palate Ca’ del Baio 2013 Pora (Barbaresco). This Pelissero 2014 Vanotu (Barbaresco). This offers black cherry, clove and bitter almond notes, 87 opens with aromas suggesting underbrush, 85 leads with toast, oak, nut and balsam aro- and the tannins are smooth. Enjoy soon. Frederick crushed herb and blue flower. The palate is tightly mas. Those oak-driven notes follow through to the Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. wound and rather closed, showing hints of orange palate, which shows coconut and exotic spice notes abv: 13% Price: $20 zest and raw cranberry. Racy acidity and austere but lacks fruit richness. Astringent, grainy tannins tannins clench the finish. Omniwines Distribution. close the finish. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. Prunotto 2016 Dolcetto d’Alba. This savory —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 88 wine offers red-skinned berry and baking abv: 14% Price: $65 spice aromas while the palate delivers ripe black cherry, clove and a hint of white pepper. Supple Cantine Povero 2014 Batù (Barbaresco). This DOLCETTO D’ALBA tannins provide support. Enjoy soon. Ste. Michelle 87 wine’s violet, baking spice and herb aro- Wine Estates. —K.O. mas carry over to its bright, straightforward pal- Cascina Bruciata 2016 Rian (Dolcetto abv: 13% Price: $17 ate together with sour cherry, pomegranate and a 89 d’Alba). Made from organically grown Dol- blast of orange zest. Bracing tannins and racy acid- cetto grapes, this opens with violet, red berry and Collina San Ponzio 2016 Dolcetto d’Alba. This ity, although assertive, provide support. Vintage nutmeg aromas. It’s savory on the palate, with pol- 87 straightforward Dolcetto has red berry and Imports, Inc. —K.O. ished tannins and black currant, clove and white spice aromas and raspberry jam, clove and orange abv: 14% Price: $25 pepper flavors. Drink soon. Soilair Selection. —K.O. zest flavors. With its flexible tannins, it’s ready to be abv: 14% Price: $22 enjoyed soon. Well Crafted Wine & Beverage. —K.O. Carlo Giacosa 2014 Narin (Barbaresco). Sour abv: 12.5% Price: $15 87 berry, coconut and camphor aromas lead Marcarini 2016 Fontanazza (Dolcetto the way while the firm palate offers toast, vanilla, 89 d’Alba). Violet, red berry and underbrush Giacosa Fratelli 2016 San Rocco (Dolcetto espresso and chocolate-covered cherry flavors. scents come together in this Dolcetto. Its savory, 87 d’Alba). This opens with underbrush, Grainy tannins grip the finish. Siena Imports. —K.O. juicy palate evokes crushed blackberry, cherry and pressed flower and red-skinned berry aromas. The abv: 14% Price: $60 a touch of toasted almond alongside lithe tannins. straightforward palate offers black cherry, raw Enjoy soon. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. almond and star anise notes, with smooth tannins. Gian Piero Marrone 2014 Barbaresco. This abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Drink soon. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. 87 wine’s menthol, crushed herb, red berry and abv: 13.5% Price: $17 violet aromas emerge in the glass. The palate evokes Poderi Colla 2015 Dolcetto d’Alba. This raw red cherry, pomegranate and white pepper and 89 opens with fragrant blue flower, under-

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Giribaldi 2016 Campo del Pero (Dolcetto fruit on the palate. Drink soon. Angelini Wine. (Moselle Luxembourgeoise). This Riesling has white 87 d’Alba). Made from organically grown —K.O. floral and lemon zest aromas and lemon pith and grapes, this Dolcetto has ripe black-skinned berry abv: 12.5% Price: $12 grapefruit flavors. It’s nicely balanced, with a pleas- and nutmeg aromas. The palate evokes ripe black antly tart finish. Ansay International, LLC. —J.J. cherry and clove. It’s straightforward, with rounded Poderi Elia 2016 Dolcetto d’Alba. This has abv: 12% Price: $23 tannins, and should be drunk soon. American B.D. 86 black-skinned fruit and baking spice aro- —K.O. mas and clove, black cherry and bitter almond fla- Domaines Vinsmoselle NV Pinot Luxem- abv: 14% Price: $14 vors. It’s easy-drinking, with loose-knit tannins. 89 bourg (Moselle Luxembourgeoise). This non August Wine Group. —K.O. vintage white blend is composed of 50% Auxerrois, La Bioca 2015 Ricciaia (Dolcetto d’Alba). This abv: 12.5% Price: $13 40% Pinot Blanc, and 10% Pinot Gris. It has green 87 opens with vanilla and pipe tobacco aromas apple and lemon pith aromas, lemon curd, apple that carry over to the palate together with a hint of Salvano 2015 Dolcetto d’Alba. This opens juice and pastry flavors and a creamy finish. Ansay raspberry jam. It’s easygoing, with supple tannins. 86 with delicate baking spice and black- International, LLC. —J.J. Enjoy soon. Vinum Wine Importing and Distribut- skinned fruit scents that carry over to the simple abv: 11.5% Price: $16 ing LLC. —K.O. palate together with a nutty note. It’s easy-drinking, abv: 14% Price: $13 with soft tannins. Enjoy soon. Minu Import. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 SPARKLING WINES Mauro Sebaste 2016 Dolcetto d’Alba. This 87 opens with subtle red-skinned berry and San Silvestro 2016 Primaio (Dolcetto Poll-Fabaire NV Cuvée Brut Crémant de baking spice aromas. The straightforward palate 86 d’Alba). This simple red leads with baking 89 Luxembourg (Moselle Luxembourgeoise). evokes red plum and clove alongside smooth tan- spice, underbrush and red-skinned berry aromas. This sparkling wine has vanilla bean, freshly baked nins. Enjoy soon. Total Wine & More. —K.O. The palate delivers orange peel, black cherry and brioche, Granny Smith apple and Bartlett pear aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 clove flavors, with round tannins. Drink soon. Kin- mas. It has a very nice mousse and flakey pie crust, dred Vines. —K.O. lemon zest and pear flavors. Ansay International, Pertinace 2016 Dolcetto d’Alba. This has iris abv: 12.5% Price: $16 LLC. —J.J. 87 and baking spice aromas and straightfor- abv: 12% Price: $26 ward raspberry jam and clove flavors. Smooth tan- Veglio 2015 Dolcetto d’Alba. Subdued bak- nins provide easygoing support. Enjoy soon. MW 86 ing spice and black-skinned fruit aromas Poll-Fabaire NV Poll on Ice Crémant de Lux- Imports. —K.O. mark the nose of this wine. The simple palate deliv- 88 embourg Demi-Sec (Moselle Luxembour- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 ers blackberry and white pepper flavors and round geoise). This semisweet sparkling wine has vanilla tannins. Drink soon. Bacco Wine & Spirit, LLC. bean and orange sorbet aromas. It has a good level Principiano 2016 Dolcetto d’Alba. This —K.O. of bubbles and marzipan and sweet tropical fruit 87 offers delicate blue flower and white pepper abv: 12.5% Price: $13 flavors that persist into the finish. Ansay Interna- scents. The straightforward, rounded palate doles tional, LLC. —J.J. out raspberry and white almond flavors. Drink soon. Villadoria 2016 Furèt (Dolcetto d’Alba). This abv: 12.5% Price: $30 House of Burgundy. —K.O. 86 informal red shows subdued iris and bak- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 ing spice aromas. It’s easygoing on the palate, with raspberry fruit, a bitter almond note and smooth GERMANY Tenuta Rocca 2016 Dolcetto d’Alba. This tannins. Enjoy soon. WinesU. —K.O. 87 delicate yet straightforward wine has blue abv: 12.5% Price: $15 RIESLING KABINETT flower and baking spice aromas. Smooth tannins back up cherry jam and white pepper flavors on the Broccardo 2015 Le Campanelle (Dolcetto Dr. Hermann 2015 Erdener Treppchen Riesling palate. Drink soon. Votto Vines Importing. —K.O. 85 d’Alba). This has restrained black-skinned 91 Kabinett (Mosel). Layers of crisp nectarine, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 fruit and graphite aromas that carry over to the lime and tangerine burst from nose and palate of simple palate, with a touch of bitter almond. Drink this vibrant Kabinett. While sweetly honeyed, it’s a Voerzio Martini 2015 Rocchettevino (Dol- soon. Baron Francois Ltd. —K.O. wine with precision, calibrated by zesty acidity and 87 cetto d’Alba). The dark-skinned fruit, clove abv: 13.5% Price: $12 elegant crushed-mineral tones. Its lovely already and chopped herb aromas in this wine are delicate. but should maintain its intensity through 2021. Its polished tannins support raw raspberry, sour Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. cherry and ground pepper notes. Drink soon. Mur- LUXEMBOURG abv: 8% Price: $25 phy Distributors. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 WHITE WINES Fritz Haag 2015 Brauneberger Riesling Kabi- 90 nett (Mosel). Demure lemon and lime on Brangero 2016 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba. Domaines Vinsmoselle 2014 Bech-Klein- the nose turn fleshy and ripe on the palate of this 86 This opens with subdued aromas suggest- 90 macher Naumberg Grand Premier Cru Auxer- delicately sweet Kabinett. Lush peach and tangerine ing black-skinned fruit and baking spice. The round, rois (Moselle Luxembourgeoise). Made from Auxer- flavors are offset by laser darts of acidity and earthy simple palate has dried black cherry, clove and raw rois, this delightful white has heady lemon zest and mineral complexities. The finish lingers on a pleas- almond notes. Drink soon. Tanaro River Imports grapefruit pith aromas. The flavors expand on the antly bitter lime-pith note. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. LLC. —K.O. palate to include lemon curd, guava and mango. It abv: 8.5% Price: $32 abv: 14% Price: $14 finishes bright and zesty. Ansay International, LLC. —J.J. Matheus 2016 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Piazzo Armando 2016 Dolcetto d’Alba. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 90 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Buoyant primary 86 Cooking spice, smoke and just-fermented aromas of sunny peach and tangerine are juxta- wine aromas lead the nose in this simple, easygoing Domaines Vinsmoselle 2015 Wormel- posed against deep reverberating slate and flint in red. A bitter almond note tempers the black cherry 88 dange Weinbour Grand Premier Cru Riesling this gorgeously balanced Kabinett. It’s lusciously

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 textured but spine-tingling with acidity. The finish ate. Delightful now but likely to hold through 2022. feels dancingly light in texture yet reverberating on is long, lingering on warm spice tones. Drink now Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. the finish. Quintessential Wines. —A.I. through 2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $24 abv: 7.5% Price: $60/375 ml abv: 9% Price: $20 Weingut Stiftung St. Nikolaus-Hospital 2015 Weingut Stiftung St. Nikolaus-Hospital 2015 Bastgen 2015 Kestener Paulinsberg Ries- 91 Cardinal Cusanus Stiftswein Wehlener Son- 91 Cardinal Cusanus Stiftswein Wehlener Son- 89 ling Kabinett (Mosel). Earthy notes of pol- nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Spice and saf- nenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Dusty clay and len accent robust yellow peach and quince in this fron notes introduce this lavishly fruity sun-kissed spice notes lend savory nuances to high-impact medium-sweet Kabinett. Fine brisk texture and wine. Pristine stone-fruit and pineapple flavors are peach, nectarine and lemon in this mouthwater- scintillating acidity lend a lacy fragile feel to the delightfully plump but balanced in sweetness and ing Riesling. It’s boldly fruity and lip-smackingly palate. The finish lingers sweetly. Kysela Père et jolted by shocks of lemon-lime acidity. This is gor- sweet-tart. Vibrant acidity leads a long luminous Fils. —A.I. geously penetrating through a long lingering finish. finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $19 Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $34 abv: 8% Price: $25 Richard Böcking 2015 Trarbachr Burgberg Bollig-Lehnert 2015 Trittenheimer Apo- 89 Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Exotic notes of Dr. Leimbrock 2015 Brauneberger Juffer 90 theke Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Whiffs of turmeric and fennel lend a spicy savory tone to this 89 Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Exotic notes of caramel and peach preserve introduce this sweet brisk lemony Kabinett. Flavors of lime and tart tan- saffron and dusty pollen mingle into ripe flavors of but elegantly balanced Riesling. Stone fruit and gerine are delicately concentrated but gilded with melon, peach and guava in this plush spicy wine. melon flavors are deeply concentrated on the pal- honey and offset by electric acidity. Drink now Medium sweet in style and softly textured, its lush- ate, accented by hints of spice and pollen, along through 2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. ness is offset by sprightly acidity and a touch of with a reverberating spine of acidity. Light footed abv: 8% Price: $30 earthiness on the finish. Drink now through 2020. and finely textured, it’s an excellent value for such a Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. well-made Auslese. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. St. Christopher 2016 Piesporter Goldtröpf­ abv: 8.5% Price: $27 abv: 7.5% Price: $18/375 ml 89 chen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Whiffs of slate and river rocks are replaced by ripe juicy St. Christopher 2016 Piesporter Goldtröpf­ Dr. Leimbrock 2015 Brauneberger Juffer melon and tangerine flavors in this zesty delicately 89 chen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Pristine 90 Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Spicy pollen and textured Riesling. It’s a straightforward Kabinett peach, tangerine and blossom notes form the core saffron notes juxtapose sunny bursts of yellow but offers loads of juicy fruity refreshment. The fin- of this fragrant fruity Riesling. Balanced in sweet- cherry and peach in this harmoniously sweet Aus- ish is moderately long, marked by a pleasantly waxy ness and reverberating with acidity, it’s an excep- lese. It’s plush and fruity but briskly balanced, fin- mineral undertone. Drink now through 2019. Wein tional value for such a juicy satisfying sip. Capture ishing with lingering spice and dusty mineral tones. Bauer Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. its youthful exuberance now through 2020. Wein Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $12 Bauer Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $33 abv: 8% Price: $12 Weingut Albert Gessinger 2015 Caldo Infer- RIESLING SPÄTLESE 89 nale Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese RIESLING AUSLESE Alte Reben (Mosel). Savory notes of saffron and Prinz Salm 2015 Berg Roxheim Riesling Spät- white-button mushroom mingle amidst sunny 92 lese Erste Lage (Nahe). Fleshy, intensely rip- Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) tangerine and quince in this nuanced Auslese. It’s ened pineapple, melon and tangerine flavors seem 92 2015 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese creamy and mouth-filling on the palate but bright- glazed with honey and spice. It’s a decadent deeply (Mosel). Pristine honey and tangerine sweetness ened by brisk citrus acidity. The finish is long with concentrated Spätlese spiked with sunny acidity and falls on the palate in a delicate filigree here. It’s lingering notes of pollen and beeswax. Kysela Père a lingering trail of honey on the finish. Enjoy now breathtakingly light in body, yet unctuous and con- et Fils. —A.I. through 2022. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. centrated. Sunny citrus acidity leads a long, slightly abv: 9% Price: $37 abv: 8% Price: $49 spicy finish. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $50 St. Christopher 2015 Piesporter Michelsberg SJ Montigny 2014 Kreuznacher Mönchberg 88 Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Ebulliently fruity 92 Riesling Spätlese (Nahe). Firm and steely Staatliche Weinbaudomäne 2015 Oppen- and forward, this light-bodied Auslese offers up in structure yet decadently fruity, this light-footed 91 heimer Herrenberg Riesling Auslese (Rhein- loads of sweet melon, peach and even berry flavors. Spätlese offers substance and pleasure in spades. hessen). Intoxicating tropical pineapple, melon and It’s juicy and crisp, finishing on delicately bristling Luscious yellow-peach and tangerine flavors are mango flavors are accented by savory notes of chest- tannins. Wein Bauer Inc. —A.I. plush on the palate but balanced judiciously with nut, spice and saffron in this nuanced Auslese. It’s abv: 8.5% Price: $14 racy acidity and a deep tang of minerality. Gorgeous decadently sweet with a rich unctuous texture, that’s already but could hold well through 2021. Wein balanced squarely by zaps of lemon-lime acidity. The Bauer Inc. —A.I. finish seems to roll on in waves of sweet honey and SWEET RIESLING abv: 7% Price: $22 delicate tea tannins. Legendary Wine Imports. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $27 Robert Weil 2015 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Ries- Hansen-Lauer 2015 Bernkasteler Graben Ries- 98 ling Trockenbeerenauslese (Rheingau). 91 ling Spätlese (Mosel). Opulent tropical fruit Villa Huesgen 2015 Enkircher Steffensberg With layers upon layers of spicy saffron, peach, and florals perfume this decadently ripe yet bracing 91 Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Blossomy perfume honey and caramel to be enjoyed on the nose alone, wine. It’s intensely fruity and juicy yet spine tingling and candied mango aromas introduce this fleshy- this heady botrytized Riesling is pure hedonism. The with acidity. Blossom and honey notes leave a linger- ripe Auslese. It’s forward and fruity yet anchored by sweet-tart palate is deft and spry yet deeply lus- ing, pleasantly viscous trail of sweetness on the pal- zesty acidity and a delicate murmur of tannins. It ciously penetrating in flavor. Spine-tingling acidity darts through a honeyed, waxy slick that extends the finish endlessly. It’s already a heart-stopping wine

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but will continue to improve for decades to come. elegant wine with wide appeal. Just slightly off dry in substance to thrive beyond a summer season. Dry Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. style, it’s balanced by fresh acidity and a subtle min- and sprightly, it offers crisp raspberry and cherry abv: 7.5% Price: $775 eral undertone. The finish lingers nicely. Drink now flavors nuanced by complexities of garrigue and through 2019. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. earth. A pleasant bite of tannins elongates the fin- Domdechant Werner 2015 Hochheimer Dom- abv: 11.5% Price: $17 ish. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. 96 dechaney Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese abv: 12% Price: $30 Grosse Lage (Rheingau). Exhilarating tropical per- Richard Böcking 2015 Devon Riesling fume leaps from the glass of this intensely aromatic 89 (Mosel). Honeysuckle perfume introduces Villa Wolf 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé (Pfalz). Trockenbeerenauslese. Sweet peach and tangerine this fragrant fresh Riesling. A shade off dry on the 89 While dry in style and subtle on the nose, flavors are exceptionally concentrated, swathed by palate, it balances spine-tingling lemon and tan- this fruity fresh rosé offers loads of concentrated caramel and saffron. It’s delightfully light in body gerine flavors against earthier notes of wax and raspberry, melon and peach flavors. Light on its feet but lavishly textured, filling the palate with waves crushed minerals. Drink now through 2019. Kysela and imminently quaffable, it’s an irresistible warm- of pristine fruit. Stunning already but will improve Père et Fils. —A.I. weather sip at an approachable price. Loosen Bros. for decades to come. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Cellar abv: 11% Price: $18 USA. Best Buy. —A.I. Selection. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $12 abv: 7% Price: $316 Konrad Hähn 2015 Piesporter Michelsberg 88 Riesling (Mosel). Ripe sweet peach and Dr. Loosen 2006 Graacher Himmelreich Ries- nectarine flavors are slightly caramelized in this GEORGIA 95 ling Beerenauslese (Mosel). Feather light semidry Riesling. Its spry zesty demeanor is deeply in texture yet deeply penetrating in flavor, this refreshing though, finishing on a revitalizing citrus SAPERAVI sprightly sip offers rolling waves of sweet caramel, note. Drink now through 2018. Kysela Père et Fils. honey and stone-fruit flavors. It’s luscious and Best Buy. —A.I. Our Wine 2015 Vineyard Akhoebi Saperavi mouth-filling in texture but balanced by strikes of abv: 10.5% Price: $12 88 (Kakheti). Inky purple in color, this wine lime acidity and a dry pristine finish. Irresistible has cassis and violet aromas. It’s smooth on entry, already at over a decade of age, but it is also com- with softly drying tannins that support wild berry, posed enough to improve decades longer. Loosen OTHER WHITE WINES lavender and eucalyptus flavors. A nice touch Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. of acidity accents the finish. Georgian House of abv: 6.5% Price: $174/375 ml Leonard Kreusch 2016 Weinkellerei Kabinett Greater Washington, LLC. —M.D. 86 (Rheinhessen). Intensely peachy from nose abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2015 Ber- to finish, this sprightly semisweet sip offers loads of 94 nkasteler Badstube Riesling Beerenauslese juicy fruity enjoyment. It’s easy going and slightly Vita Vinea 2015 Dakishvili Family Vineyard (Mosel). Dazzling acidity pierces through the dense candied on the palate but finishes crisply. Leonard 87 Saperavi (Kakheti). This wine offers a bou- core of sweet rich peach, fig and mango flavors here. Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. quet of black cherry and butterscotch. Its cherry, It’s sumptuously honeyed but elegantly composed abv: 8.5% Price: $13 blueberry and mint flavors are enwrapped in force- with complexities of tea leaf and lime pith extending ful tannins that give way to a finish marked by black through a long lingering finish. Beautiful already but Leonard Kreusch 2016 Weinkellerei Spätlese­ fruit. Georgian House of Greater Washington, LLC. structured enough to last decades. Miller Squared 86 (Rheinhessen). Earthy slightly herbaceous —M.D. Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. tones juxtapose sweet peach and citrus in this abv: 13% Price: $21 abv: 10.5% Price: $70 straightforward easy-drinking Spätlese. It’s deli- cate in concentration but juicy, finishing pleasantly brisk Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. WHITE WINES OTHER RIESLING abv: 9% Price: $13 Vita Vinea 2015 Amber Dry Dakishvili Family Richard Böcking 2015 Ungsberg Riesling Peter Mertes 2015 Platinum Spätlese (Rhe- 83 Vineyards Kisi (Kakheti). True to its name, 90 (Mosel).­ Whiffs of saffron and spice lend 86 inhessen). This off-dry white blend offers this wine is golden amber in color. Its apricot and earthen complexity to cutting lime and green plum primary stone-fruit and tangerine flavors in a brisk almond blossom aromas lead to quince, underripe in this zesty Riesling. Off dry on the palate, it’s deli- light-footed package. It’s harmoniously sweet with a apple and bitter almond flavors. Grippy tannins cately sheer and spry. Its invigorating style is plea- slightly earthy dusty finish. Drink now. Banks Chan- come on strong from first sip and persist into the surable already, but should only meld and improve nel. Best Buy. —A.I. chalky finish. Georgian House of Greater Washing- from now through 2022. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $10 ton, LLC. —M.D. abv: 10.5% Price: $38 abv: 13% Price: $25 Leonard Kreusch 2016 Weinkellerei Auslese C.H. Berres 2015 Berres Estate Riesling 85 (Rheinhessen). Hints of summer strawberry Our Wine 2015 Vineyard Tsarapi 89 (Mosel). Fragrant notes of white blossom and peach show prominently in this medium-sweet 84 (Kakheti). This apricot-colored wine offers and peach waft from this juicy off-dry Riesling. white blend. It’s a touch confected in sweetness, but a bouquet of peach and mandarin orange. It has Creamy and luscious in texture, it offers concen- light bodied and easy drinking. The finish is brisk. a chalky mouthfeel from aging in clay amphora. trated tangerine and stone-fruit flavors balanced Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. Stewed apricot, toffee and bacon flavors lead to briskly with acidity. It’s an uncomplicated but lip- abv: 9% Price: $14 a dry, slightly savory finish. Georgian House of smacking sip to enjoy now through 2018. Classical Greater Washington, LLC. —M.D. Wines. —A.I. abv: 12.9% Price: $30 abv: 11% Price: $16 ROSÉS Our Wine 2015 Vineyard Akhoebi Rkatsiteli Dr. Leimbrock 2015 Estate Riesling (Mosel). August Kesseler 2015 Pinot Noir Saignée 82 (Kakheti). Amber in color, this wine has a 89 Richly textured and bursting with fresh yel- 90 Rosé (Rheingau). While bright and fresh soft nectarine aroma and a hoppy, herbal taste, with low peach, nectarine and melon flavors, this is an with fruit, this robust structured rosé offers enough a touch of sourness. It’s chalky on entry, and its tan-

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 nins don’t let up, even into the gum-numbing finish. Chateau Dereszla 2015 Dry (Tokaji). This and silky. Blue Danube Wine Co. Editors’ Choice. Georgian House of Greater Washington, LLC. —M.D. 89 straw-colored wine made predominantely —J.J. abv: 13.1% Price: $30 from Furmint has tropical aromas of passion fruit abv: 11% Price: $65 and mango and a touch of fresh white peach. White peach, yellow peach and guava flavors show on the Oremus 2014 Late Harvest (Tokaji). This BULGARIA palate before the zesty finish. Cognac One, LLC. 93 late harvest sweet wine leads with delicate —J.J. lemon blossom, canned peach, ripe apricot and WHITE WINES abv: 13% Price: $16 mandarin orange aromas. It delivers white peach and apricot flavors on the palate, which is velvety Manastira 2016 Riverside Chardonnay Patricius 2015 Dry Furmint (Tokaji). This smooth, with a restrained level of acidity to offset 88 (Thracian Valley). This Chardonnay has 89 straw-colored dry Furmint has lemon zest, the sweetness. Europvin USA. —J.J. vanilla, lemon blossom and peach aromas. Lemon green apple and tropical mango aromas. Its apple, abv: 12% Price: $32/500 ml curd and green apple flavors come through on the pear and peach flavors are inflected with a nice level palate before a pleasantly acidic finish. Old Town of minerality. The finish is soft yet zesty. Blue Dan- Patricius 2012 Katinka Noble Imports. —J.J. ube Wine Co. —J.J. 93 (Tokaji). This late harvest sweet wine has abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $16 caramelized pineapple, beeswax and apricot aromas that carry over effortlessly to the palate. It’s soft and Manastira 2016 Riverside Muskat Ottonel Préselö 2015 Dry Furmint (Tokaj). This dry silky in texture, with a delicately sweet finish. Blue 87 (Thracian Valley). This Muscat Ottonel has 89 Furmint has beeswax, freshly cut peach, Danube Wine Co. —J.J. lemon zest and white floral aromas. A floral touch ripe apricot and lemon blossom aromas. The pal- abv: 11.5% Price: $25 of violet colors the palate, as well as juicy orange ate recalls apricot and peach, with a pleasantly tart pith. The finish is clean and crisp. Old Town Wine finish. Georgian House of Greater Washington, LLC. Imports. —J.J. —J.J. RED WINES abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $15 Kovács Nimród 2009 NJK Nagy Eged Grand Manastira 2016 Riverside Sauvignon Blanc 89 Cru (). This Hungarian red blend has 87 (Thracian Valley). This straw-colored Sau- OTHER WHITE WINES smoke, charcuterie and black raspberry aromas. vignon Blanc from Bulgaria’s Thracian Plains has Black plum, smoked meat and black raspberry fla- fresh cut grass and lemon blossom aromas. On the Apátsági 2013 Somlói Hárslevelü (Hun- vors mark the palate, which finishes in a surprising palate, expect lemongrass, fresh fig, mango and 90 gary). This dry white has apricot, peach burst of tart cherry. Nimrod Wines, LLC. —J.J. dried herb flavors. Old Town Wine Imports. —J.J. and white floral scents and lemon curd and orange abv: 13.9% Price: $56 abv: 13% Price: $16 zest flavors. It’s well balanced, with a creamy finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. Heimann 2015 Kadarka (Szekszárd). Light abv: 12.5% Price: $26 88 ruby in color, this Kadarka has cherry cola, SPARKLING WINE black cherry and smoked meat scents. It evokes Patricius 2015 Dry Yellow Muscat (Tokaji). spiced cherry and black raspberry on the palate, Pixels 2015 (Thracian Valley). This 89 Straw colored in the glass, this dry Mus- with a spicy and persistent finish. Blue Danube 87 sparkling Glera has apple blossom and cat has pineapple, dried rosemary, peach and apple Wine Co. —J.J. lemon zest aromas. The bubbles are nicely distrib- blossom aromas. White peach and apricot flavors abv: 12% Price: $19 uted amongst pear and mandarin orange flavors. It mark the palate and lead to a crisp finish. Blue Dan- ends in a crisp finish. G&B Importers. —J.J. ube Wine Co. —J.J. Heimann 2013 Bikavér (Szekszárd). This abv: 11% Price: $15 abv: 11.5% Price: $16 88 garnet-colored Bikavér blend is comprised of Kefrankos, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sagrantino Préselö 2015 Dry Muscat (Tokaj). This dry and Kadarka. It has cherry, raspberry and plum aro- RED WINE 88 is made from Muscat mas and sour cherry, raspberry and smoked meat Lunel. It has sweet tart candy, dried basil, rosemary flavors. Nicely balanced, it has rounded tannins and Manastira 2013 Just Young Cabernet Sauvi- and lemon blossom aromas. On the palate, expect a prolonged finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. 86 gnon (Thracian Valley). Ruby in color, this dried Mediterranean herb, lemon zest and white abv: 14% Price: $30 Cabernet Sauvignon has black cherry and black peach flavors. Georgian House of Greater Washing- plum aromas and vanilla, cherry and black plum fla- ton, LLC. —J.J. Kovács Nimród 2012 Monopole Soul Syrah vors. The finish has a touch of tartness. Old Town abv: 12.5% Price: $15 88 (Eger). This Syrah boasts of cherry-vanilla, Wine Imports. —J.J. blackberry and black plum aromas and sour cherry abv: 13% Price: $13 and blackberry flavors. The tannins are nicely TOKAJI round, and the finish is pleasantly acidic. Nimrod Wines, LLC. —J.J. Patricius 2006 Aszú Six Puttonyos (Tokaji). abv: 14.5% Price: $25 95 One of the hallmarks of delicious six put- FURMINT tonyos Tokaj is a delicate balance of acidity and Eszterbauer 2015 Sógor Kadarka (Szek- sweetness on the palate. This wine hits that mark 87 szárd). This light ruby-colored wine is made Oremus 2015 Mandolas Dry (Tokaji). Elegant with accuracy and has tantalizing apricot, Bananas from Kadarka grapes. It has cherry and Mediterra- 90 and balanced, this straw-colored dry Fur- Foster, beeswax and caramelized pineapple aromas, nean herb aromas and raspberry, baking spice and mint has lemon curd, peach and apricot aromas, which follow through seamlessly to the palate. As it dried cherry flavors. It’s balanced, with soft tannins lemon zest and flaky pastry flavors and a creamy opens, more pronounced lemon meringue and aca- and a fruity finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. finish. Europvin USA. —J.J. cia honey flavors emerge. The texture is luxurious abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $28

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with blueberry, cherry and white chocolate flavors, ISRAEL buttressed by firm but not overpowering tannins AUSTRALIA and a touch of smoke. The slightly drying finish WHITE WINES features a soft burst of cranberry. Kosher. Palm Bay CHARDONNAY International. Best Buy. —M.D. Recanati 2016 Yasmin White Chardonnay- abv: 14% Price: $12 Hardys 2014 Stamp of Australia Chardonnay 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Galilee). This wine’s floral 85 (South Eastern Australia). Hints of lemon and baking spice aromas pave the way for refreshing curd and crème brûlée join peach and citrus, finish- pineapple, kiwi and freesia flavors. It’s smooth in OTHER RED WINES ing with a surprising degree of elegance. Drink up. the mouth, with citrus and floral notes that mingle Accolade Wines NA. Best Buy. —J.C. on the pleasant finish. Palm Bay International.Best Dalton 2014 Estate Merlot (Galilee). Deep abv: 13% Price: $8 Buy. —M.D. 90 garnet in color, this wine has a nose marked abv: 12% Price: $12 by black cherry and blackberry scents. It’s soft on Jacob’s Creek 2016 Chardonnay (Australia). entry but brightens as it washes across the palate, 85 Tightly constructed for an entry-priced Dalton 2016 Estate Fumé Blanc (Galilee). offering blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavors. Chardonnay, this has faint almond nuttiness 86 Pale straw in color, this wine has a nose Velvety tannins persist into the zesty, cranberry- accenting pineapple and grapefruit flavors. Drink of grapefruit and rose petal. It’s very soft on the tinged finish. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, LTD. this medium-bodied wine through mid-2018. Per- palate, with passion fruit, lemon and rose flavors —M.D. nod Ricard. Best Buy. —J.C. and a drawn-out, fruit-filled finish. Kosher. Allied abv: 15% Price: $18 abv: 13.1% Price: $8 Importers, USA, LTD. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $15 Dalton 2014 Estate Shiraz (Galilee). Dark Settlers Rise 2016 Chardonnay (South East- 89 ruby in color, this wine offers raspberry 85 ern Australia). This bargain-priced offering and strawberry aromas. It’s bright on entry, with a is simple, fruity and direct, marked by peach and RED BLENDS network of tannins that slowly emerge amidst black pineapple notes and a silky texture. Drink now. cherry, black currant, juniper and tomato leaf fla- Selby. Best Buy. —J.C. Dalton 2013 Alma Scarlet (Galilee). Dark vors. The zippy finish is marked by a splash of cle- abv: 13% Price: $10 92 ruby in the glass, this wine’s simple cherry mentine flavor. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, LTD. fragrance does not do justice to its black cherry, —M.D. Banrock Station 2015 Chardonnay (South blueberry, vanilla and clove flavors. It’s bright from abv: 15% Price: $18 83 Eastern Australia). Wax bean and citrus the first sip, with silky tannins and black pepper and notes meet dry, woody elements on the nose, but sage notes that continue into a finish punctuated by this wine does feature a plump, appealing texture a burst of bright cherry. Kosher. Allied Importers, MOLDOVA and a soft, easy finish. Drink now. Accolade Wines USA, LTD. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. NA. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $22 CHARDONNAY abv: 13% Price: $8

Dalton 2013 Alma Crimson (Galilee). This Vinaria din Vale 2015 Alb Chardonnay (Mol- Yellow Tail 2016 Chardonnay (South Eastern 91 wine offers black cherry, chocolate and lav- 88 dova). This Chardonnay has grapefruit pith 83 Australia). Fleshy, opulent and exotic, this ender aromas. It has a good mouthfeel, with black- and buttery pastry crust aromas and lemon zest and offers tropical notes reminiscent of apricot and berry, pomegranate, juniper and violet flavors set in candied orange peel flavors. The finish is long and mango that finish rich and warm, with odd spice a web of supple tannins that give way to dried Med- creamy. Sarego Imports LLC. Best Buy. —J.J. notes. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —J.C. iterranean herb notes on the finish. Kosher. Allied abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $8 Importers, USA, LTD. —M.D. abv: 15% Price: $22 RED WINES ROSÉS Dalton 2016 Canaan Red (Galilee). This 88 red-violet-colored wine has cherry and Château Vartely 2015 Indvido (Moldova). Hentley Farm 2016 Rosé (). chocolate aromas. It’s well constructed, with softly 89 This blend of Rara Neagra, Malbec and 91 This bright pink-ruby rosé features attrac- gripping tannins and overall sense of brightness. Syrah has espresso, mocha and raspberry scents. It tive aromas of watermelon rind and cherries. It’s Blackberry, black currant, toffee and basil flavors offers smoked meat, tart cherry and black plum fla- medium in body, fresh and vibrant on the palate, coalesce in a slightly spicy but juicy finish. Kosher. vors before the softly tannic finish. Sarego Imports bursting with crunchy fresh fruit reminiscent of Allied Importers, USA, LTD. Best Buy. —M.D. LLC. —J.J. raspberries and cherries. Drink now. Hentley Farm abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $15 (US). —J.C. abv: 12% Price: $21 Katlav 2012 Wadi Katlav (Judean Hills). Vinaria din Vale 2011 Rosu Cabernet Sauvi- 88 Raspberry and green bell pepper aromas set 86 gnon (Moldova). This Moldovan Cabernet Punt Road 2016 Airlie Bank Gris Fermented the scene for blackberry, cassis, geranium leaf and Sauvignon has strawberry jam, saddle leather and 90 on Skins Rosé (Yarra Valley). This Pinot Gris smoke flavors in this wine. It’s full bodied, with vel- raspberry aromas. The palate is marked by smoked fermented as whole bunches for two weeks, then vety tannins and a savory finish. Kosher. King David meat, clove and baking spice flavors that accent its was basket-pressed to old hogsheads and bottled Wines. —M.D. fruity core. Sarego Imports LLC. Best Buy. —J.J. without fining or filtration. The result is a cop- abv: 15.5% Price: $45 abv: 15.5% Price: $10 per-hued rosé with a broad feel on the palate and slightly dry tannins on the finish. It has that almost Recanati 2016 Yasmin Red Cabernet Sauvi- cidery edge that many of these natural wines seem 89 gnon-Merlot (Galilee). Dark violet-red in to develop, but also fruity apple and savory mush- color, this wine offers a bouquet of blackberry, cas- room notes. Little Peacock Imports. —J.C. sis and smoked meat. It opens softly on the palate abv: 12% Price: $20

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Fairbank Sutton Grange 2016 Rosé (Ben- Schild Estate 2013 Moorooroo Shiraz grilled meat, this is full boded and ripe, but lacks 89 digo). This pale copper rosé blends 71% 94 (Barossa Valley). Sourced from vines the density and concentration of the region’s best Shiraz with 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% San- planted in 1847, this is a full-bodied, open-knit examples, giving way to an open-knit finish. Drink giovese. Melon, stone fruit and citrus notes feature wine, supple and velvety in texture. Vanilla cream this over the next several years for its upfront on the broad palate that comes into crisp focus on and black cherries mark the nose, while the flavors appeal. USA Wine West. —J.C. the long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now. Little are more savory, resembling black olives and grilled abv: 14.5% Price: $46 Peacock Imports. —J.C. meat. It’s long and lush on the finish. Drink it now abv: 31% Price: $22 through 2025. USA Wine West. —J.C. Small Gully Wines 2014 Mr. Black’s Little abv: 14.5% Price: $100 88 Book Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This is ripe 2016 Rosé (Barossa Valley). This and supple, combining mixed berry fruit with more 89 95% Grenache rosé is a pale salmon hue. Lambert 2013 The Commitment Shiraz savory notes of black olives. Despite the importer’s Subtle melon and berry fruit marks the nose, while 93 (Barossa Valley). Scents of vanilla and bak- claims of neutral oak, vanilla and cedar notes are the palate is medium in body and silky in texture, ing spices frame bold raspberry fruit on the nose, present, adding a bit of complexity and texture to finishing with mouthwatering acids. Drink now. while the flavors take a more savory turn, toward the slightly warm finish. Drink now–2020. Vine American Estates Wines, Inc. —J.C. mocha and grilled meat. This is full bodied and Street Imports. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $20 maybe even a touch warm, but it works, ending long abv: 15% Price: $16 and plush. Drink now–2025. AUSA Pacific.Editors’ Gemtree 2016 Luna de Fresca Biodynamic Choice. —J.C. Jacob’s Creek 2014 Reserve Shiraz (Barossa). 88 Rosé (McLaren Vale). Tempra- abv: 15.5% Price: $33 86 Ample vanilla and cedar frame loganberry nillo could be an interesting variety in South Aus- fruit in this medium-bodied wine. Charred meat tralia going forward. This rosé features hints of sous Thistledown 2013 The Basket Case Old Vine and tapanade join in on the long, savory and dry fin- bois and cherries on the nose, then adds melon and 93 Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This wine was aged ish. Pernod Ricard. —J.C. spice notes on the palate. It’s plump in the mouth, in hogsheads (300 liter) and demi-muids (500 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 then finishes on a dry, silky note. Vinovia Wine liter). The oak provides a subtle frame, adding hints Group. —J.C. of pencil shavings and scorched pie crust to the ripe abv: 12.5% Price: $19 berry flavors. The wine is still big, lush and unmis- NEW ZEALAND takably Barossa Valley, showing off raspberries and Koonara 2016 Emily May Pinot Noir Rosé blueberries to an unusual (and welcome) extent. SAUVIGNON BLANC 86 (Mount Gambier). This wine combines Supple enough to drink now, it should also age well notes of melon and candied apple with hints of pep- through at least 2025. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Edi- Saint Clair 2015 Pioneer Block 20 Dillons Point per and ginger. Despite its modest alcohol level, it tors’ Choice. —J.C. 91 Cash Block Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). seems weighty, and even a bit sweet, then finishes abv: 14.5% Price: $33 For full review see page 10. on a mouthwatering, spicy note. Great Australian abv: 13% Price: $28 Wine Company. —J.C. Kalleske 2014 Moppa Shiraz (Barossa). abv: 11.5% Price: $25 92 Although labeled Shiraz, this wine also Yealands 2016 S1 Single Block Awatere Valley includes 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Viognier. Those 91 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Dense and Hancock & Hancock 2016 Home Vineyard additions help account for its impressive color and rich on the palate, this shows the concentration 85 Grenache Rosé (McLaren Vale). Bright, lean rich mouthfeel. Vanilla and cedar frame mixed ber- achieved in this coastal location. Snap pea, pine- and vibrant, this is a medium-bodied rosé with ries, yet the wine remains savory and complex, add- apple and nectarine elements combine for a harmo- gingery-citrusy notes that could go well with fish ing hints of black olive, mocha and grilled meat. nious whole that lingers on the finish, picking up or poultry dishes. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. Drink this dense, full-bodied wine now through more austere hints of wet stone. Drink now. Palm —J.C. 2025. Hudson Wine Brokers. —J.C. Bay International. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $34 abv: 13% Price: $30

Streicker 2016 Bridgeland Block Rosé (Mar- Maverick 2014 Breechens Shiraz (Barossa). Nautilus 2015 The Paper Nautilus Sauvi- 84 garet River). Tart, citrusy fruit flavors with 91 It’s hard to believe such a wine can come from 90 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). Fermented in some herbal overtones contrast with this wine’s the Barossa, a region known for size and richness. a seasoned 3,000-liter oak vat, this doesn’t show ample weight, while the finish is crisp and zesty. But this is part of a new wave of Aussie Shiraz— overt wood flavors, instead revealing hints of ramps Drink now. Margaret River Imports. —J.C. medium in body and silky in style, with moderate and sweat accenting passion fruit. Medium bod- abv: 13% Price: $28 alcohol levels. Healthy doses of oak impart notes of ied, it offers fascinating textural interplay between hickory smoke, cedar and vanilla to the plum fruit. creaminess from lees contact and vibrant acidity. Drink now–2025. Cannon Wines Limited. Editors’ Drink now. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. SHIRAZ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 12.8% Price: $18 Lambert 2013 The Family Tree Shiraz Saint Clair 2016 Wairau Reserve Sauvignon 95 (Barossa Valley). Rich, dense and intense, Pirathon 2014 by Kalleske Shiraz (Barossa). 90 Blanc (Marlborough). Slightly pungent and this is a big, muscular rendering of Barossa Shiraz. 91 Smoky, savory plum, black olive and meat sweaty at first, this wine gradually opens to reveal Scents of maple syrup and menthol intertwine with notes emerge on the nose and continue through the a core of white-grapefruit aromas and flavors. It’s flavors of ripe plums and grilled meat. It’s mouth- lengthy finish, framed by firm tannins. Drink now– medium in weight and richly textured, with a long, coating and long on the tannic finish, so give it some 2025. Hudson Wine Brokers. —J.C. velvety finish. Drink now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. time in the cellar; drink 2020–2030. AUSA Pacific. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 —J.C. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $32 abv: 15.5% Price: $65 Schild Estate 2013 Ben Schild Reserve Single 90 Vineyard Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Impres- sive for its bold, savory flavors of tapenade and

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Trinity Hill 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Hawke’s cinating textural aspect of this white wine. Pacific flavor. Instead it offers crisp red fruits like cherries 90 Bay). For full review see page 12. Editors’ Prime Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. and pomegranates, plus subtle hints of tomato leaf Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 and smoked meat. Drink now–2021. Indigo Wine abv: 12% Price: $17 Group. —J.C. Kono 2014 Aronui Grüner Veltliner (Nel- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Cloudy Bay 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 89 son). Nelson is well known for its aromatic 89 ough). This vintage of Cloudy Bay boasts whites, so it’s no surprise that this Maori-owned Villa Maria 2014 Single Vineyard Taylors Pass aromas of struck flint and white grapefruit, then brand has bottled an attractive Grüner Veltliner 91 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This adds hints of pineapple and green herbs on the long, from the region. Delicate leafy aromas accent stone medium-bodied wine is taut, firm and wiry. Floral austere finish. Moët Hennessy USA. —J.C. fruit, while the medium-bodied wine is zesty, long notes dress up black cherries and vanilla before abv: 13.5% Price: $31 and elegant, with no hint of bitterness. Drink now. ending on a crisp, slightly edgy note. Give it another Total Beverage Solution. —J.C. year or two to round into form and drink it through White’s Bay 2015 Black Label Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $21 2021. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. 89 Blanc (Marlborough). This is medium-bod- abv: 13% Price: $42 ied, perhaps a bit broad on the palate, but combines Jules Taylor 2015 Grüner Veltliner (Marlbor- green tomato, pineapple and grapefruit notes with 86 ough). This wine is broad on the palate and Clos Henri 2014 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). an attractive, silky texture. Drink now. Boutinot creamy in texture. Bruised apple aromas mar the 90 This wine from the Loire-based Bourgeois USA, Inc. —J.C. otherwise delicate melon and peach notes, while it family marries impressive ripeness with bright, red- abv: 13% Price: $17 finishes quickly. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. fruit flavors. Vanilla and oak spice accent pome- —J.C. granate and red-currant notes, then add a velvety Wither Hills 2016 Rarangi Single Vineyard abv: 13.5% Price: $18 texture to the long finish. Drink now–2024. Slocum 89 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). This is & Sons, Inc. —J.C. solid, well-made Savvy. White grapefruit and red- abv: 14.1% Price: $33 currant aromas and flavors are textbook for the CHENIN BLANC variety, while the medium body and long, stony fin- Cloudy Bay 2014 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). ish also tick the boxes. Drink now. Distinguished Millton 2015 Te Arai Vineyard Chenin Blanc 90 This wine may be on the fleshy, supple side Vineyards & Wine Partners. —J.C. 91 (Gisborne). This is a study of the spectrum, but it remains grounded in savory abv: 13% Price: $25 in contrasts. Non-fruit aromas of wax, paraffin spice and earth. Cola and baking spices end on a and lanolin are offset by bright pineapple flavors, mouthwatering note. Moët Hennessy USA. —J.C. Ata Rangi 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Martin- while a long, zesty finish balances the wine’s ample abv: 13.5% Price: $40 88 borough). Winemaker Helen Masters is weight and slightly creamy texture. Delicious now, trying to get a bit more texture into her Sauvignon it should drink well through at least 2022. Verity Giesen 2013 Clavin Single Vineyard Selection Blanc by incorporating a small portion that’s been Wine Partners. —J.C. 90 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This is plush and fermented on the skins. It adds a bit of richness to abv: 12.5% Price: $30 oaky, with cedar, vanilla and baking spices layered the already ripe flavors of fig, nectarine, melon and atop cherry-berry fruit. The midpalate is rich and pineapple. Drink now. Verity Wine Partners. —J.C. Astrolabe 2014 Wrekin Vineyard Chenin round, while the finish is a bit astringent. Try in abv: 13% Price: $20 89 Blanc (Marlborough). Chenin Blanc isn’t 2019. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —J.C. common in New Zealand, but the ones made here abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Saint Clair 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- tend to be worth trying. This plump, medium- 88 borough). This well-made regional blend bodied wine features intense notes of melon and Giesen 2013 The Brothers Pinot Noir (Marl- shows aromas of struck flint, sage notes accent pear, along with a hint of anise. The finish is long 90 borough). This is a medium-bodied, silky white grapefruit aromas. The flavors follow in a and refreshingly crisp. Drink now. Cannonball Wine rendering of Pinot Noir. Restrained aromas of cher- similar vein, picking up hints of red currant and Company. —J.C. ries, dried herbs and vanilla lead into similar fla- wet stone on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now. abv: 13% Price: $23 vors, then pick up a touch of mocha on the long Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —J.C. finish. Drink now–2020. Pacific Highway Wines & abv: 13% Price: $18 Spirits. —J.C. PINOT NOIR abv: 14.5% Price: $30

GRÜNER VELTLINER Clos Henri 2013 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Nautilus 2014 Clay Hills Vineyard Pinot 92 This impressive wine is full bodied, round 90 Noir (Marlborough). This wine is initially Forrest 2015 The Doctors’ Grüner Veltliner and dusty in texture, filled with deep cherry fruit marked by scents of charred oak and espresso 91 (Marlborough). Despite coiming in at only and dark chocolate notes. It finishes long and softly beans. With aeration, the cherry fruit become more 12.5% abv, this is fairly weighty. Restrained aromas tannic. Drink now–2025. Grape Expectations (CA). apparent. It’s medium to full in body, with silky yet of crushed stone set the stage, then bold peach and Editors’ Choice. —J.C. firm tannins that reflect the vineyard’s clay soils. melon flavors take over, finishing with a bit of cel- abv: 13.5% Price: $33 Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. ery leaf. Drink now. Pacific Prime Wines. Editors’ abv: 13.5% Price: $33 Choice. —J.C. Greywacke 2014 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). abv: 12.5% Price: $18 92 For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. Wairau River 2015 Pinot Noir (Marlbor- abv: 13.5% Price: $39 88 ough). This is a light- to medium-bodied, Forrest 2014 The Doctors’ Grüner Veltliner silky wine. Floral and leafy shadings add interest to 90 (Marlborough). This medium-bodied wine Bird 2013 Big Barrel Pinot Noir (Marlborough). black-cherry fruit, while vanilla and cedar notes fan features an intriguing blend of stone-fruit and 91 Sourced from the Omaka Valley, this Pinot out on the finish. Drink now–2020. Terlato Wines celery-leaf notes. The finish is long and silky, a fas- Noir is fermented and aged in 1000-liter casks, International. —J.C. hence the Big Barrel moniker. It’s medium bodied abv: 13% Price: $21 and silky in texture, with only minimal oak-derived

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Dashwood 2015 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Stoneburn 2013 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Alfredo Roca 2016 Dedicatión Personal 87 This wine’s aromas are marked by bright 84 This tart, silky wine brings together hints of 88 Chardonnay (San Rafael). Lightly oaked and cherries and an undercurrent of button mushrooms. vanilla and cedar with pie cherries and beets. Light honest throughout, this Chardonnay displays easy It’s medium bodied and crisp, with just enough in body, it finishes with crisp acids. Merchant Vint- ripeness as well as punch. Melon, citrus and stone- silky-textured tannin to give it some grip. Drink ner Imports. —J.C. fruit flavors make appearances in front of a waxy now. Esprit du Vin. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 finish with honey and white-fruit flavors. Hand abv: 14% Price: $18 Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Ten Sisters 2015 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). RED BLENDS 87 This medium-bodied wine features a heavy Alfredo Roca 2016 Fincas Chardonnay (Men- dose of baking spices and vanilla layered atop Te Mata 2014 Coleraine (Hawke’s Bay). The 87 doza). Fresh aromas of white gumdrop, notions of earth and red cherries. It’s a little dry and 94 2014 Coleraine is a blend of 60% Cabernet quince and peach precede a peachy, citrusy palate. woody, but cinnamon and clove notes add charm. Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. Dry citrus flavors persist on a clean finish. This is a Bartow Imports. —J.C. Some herbal, cabbagey notes blow off with air to fresh Chardonnay where less is more. Hand Picked abv: 13.5% Price: $20 reveal vanilla, cedar, cassis, blackberry and mocha. Selections. —M.S. Full bodied and plush, this wine is soft enough to abv: 12.2% Price: $14 Cairnbrae 2013 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). drink now, but could probably go 20-plus years. 86 Fully mature, this light-bodied Pinot should Wine Dogs Imports LLC. Cellar Selection. —J.C. Finca El Origen 2015 Estate Chardonnay be consumed before the end of 2017. Scents of cola abv: 13.5% Price: $85 87 (Mendoza). Clean, fresh, stony aromas are and earth add interest to cherry fruit, ending with basic but good. A round palate benefits from cit- lingering acids. Station Imports Inc. —J.C. Esk Valley 2014 Gimblett Gravels Merlot- ric kick, while this tastes of mixed tropical fruits abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec-Cabernet Franc backed by skins-based bitterness. Carolina Wine (Hawke’s Bay). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. Hunky Dory 2015 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Choice. abv: 13% Price: $10 86 Made from certified organic fruit, this abv: 14% Price: $18 impressively dark and tannic bottling is essentially Mariposa 2016 Chardonnay (San Juan). This the second wine of Huia. Dark cherries and vanilla Trinity Hill 2014 The Trinity (Hawke’s Bay). 86 clean, mild quaffer offers basic white-fruit finish firm. Drink it now with grilled meats, or hold 91 The name is misleading, as this contains five aromas and a light-bodied, fresh palate. Apple and it until 2018–2019 and see how it develops in the grape varieties (55% Merlot, 17% Tempranillo, mild citrus flavors are short on the finish, which cellar. USA Wine West. —J.C. 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Malbec and 7% takes on an apricot flavor as it fades away. Black Sea abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Syrah). It’s a lush, expansive wine filled with dark Imports. —M.S. fruit—think cassis and blueberry. Hints of asphalt, abv: 12.5% Price: $8 Hunter’s 2013 Jane Hunter Pinot Noir (Marl- mocha and baking spices linger on the finish. Drink 86 borough). This is a light, crisp wine for cur- now–2020. Terroir Life. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Santa Julia 2016 Reserva Chardonnay (Uco rent drinking. Herbal notes make the cherry fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $17 86 Valley). Modest peach and apple aromas resemble cherry tomatoes, while the acids carry rise up on a quiet nose. Active acidity adds punch through the tart finish. Merchant Vintner Imports. Moana Park 2014 Meritage (Hawke’s Bay). to a fairly standard palate that conveys stone fruits, —J.C. 90 This blend encompasses 86% Merlot, 12% tangy citrus and salt. A mildly briny finish runs abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Full bodied and heavy on malic acid. Winesellers, Ltd. —M.S. rich, it’s loaded with boysenberry and cassis fruit, abv: 13% Price: $13 Tablelands 2015 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). but with ample structure to support it. Drink 2019– 86 This wine boasts an attractive nose of rose 2025. Copa Fina Imports CA. —J.C. Verum 2016 Chardonnay (Alto Valle del Río petals and red cherries, followed by cherry and abv: 13% Price: $20 86 Negro). Apple aromas set up a chunky pal- pomegranate flavors on the lightweight palate. The ate that tastes of lightly oxidized apple and peach. It tannins are supple and the finish fades quickly, Esk Valley 2015 Gimblett Gravels Merlot- finishes solid but basic. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. making this a drink-now proposition. Wine Dogs 89 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec-Cabernet Franc abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Imports LLC. —J.C. (Hawke’s Bay). This wine is firm and taut. Cassis, abv: 13.4% Price: $20 mulberry and blueberry fruit finishes with some Zolo 2016 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown dusty tannins and crisp acids. Drink now–2022. 86 and Bottled Unoaked Chardonnay (Men- Fault Line 2013 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. doza). Basic tropical-fruit aromas settle on pine- 85 Aromas of cedar and leather leave a savory abv: 14% Price: $18 apple. This unoaked chardonnay is melony on the impression that’s echoed on the palate, where fla- palate, with ample acidity. Heavy, ripe flavors of vors center on cola, baking spices and mushroom. peach, melon and pear turn towards mango on the A crisp finish provides bright contrast. Drink up. ARGENTINA finish. Vino Del Sol.Best Buy. —M.S. Winesellers, Ltd. —J.C. abv: 13.6% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 CHARDONNAY Black Cabra 2016 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Allan Scott 2013 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). Viña Cobos 2016 Felino Chardonnay (Men- 84 Pulpy aromas of applesauce are a bit flat. 84 Lightweight and lacking in texture, this 89 doza). Aromas of apple cider, peach and oak This feels chunky on the palate, with low acidity. wine offers fading red-cherry fruit, cola notes and lead to a full palate. Flavors of melon and banana White-fruit flavors suggest canned peach and pear, leafy greens. Drink up. Craft + Estate–The Winebow have a nutty quality, while this is stable on the fin- and it tastes sweet on the finish. Vino Del Sol. Group. —J.C. ish, with tropical fruit and honeyed flavors. Drink —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20 now. Paul Hobbs Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $10 abv: 14.6% Price: $20

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Ruca Malen 2016 Chardonnay (Mendoza). nectarine and flowery flavors finish with a yeasty this classy white blend through 2018. Kysela Père 84 Dry, peppery field notes and the scent of note of ham and white fruits. Universal Beverage et Fils. —M.S. lanolin set up a plump palate with briny nectarine Importer. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50 and salty mango flavors. A round finish holds onto abv: 14% Price: $13 this salty, tropical character. Opici Wines. —M.S. Finca Agostino 2013 Familia Semillon-Sau- abv: 13% Price: $19 Zolo 2017 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown 87 vignon Blanc (Mendoza). A gold color and 85 and Bottled Torrontés (Mendoza). For full buttery, rich aromas of popcorn, toasted nuts and Aniello 2016 006 Riverside Estate Char- review see page 14. Best Buy. vanilla announce this Sémillon-SB blend. In the 83 donnay (Río Negro Valley). With little fruit abv: 13% Price: $10 mouth, this is resiny and fat. Ripe melony flavors to the nose, this cool-climate Chardonnay smells are oaky and creamy, while a barrel-related feel and strained. A chunky palate has a canned-fruit char- Zolo 2016 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown flavors carry the finish. Hand Picked Selections. acter, tasting faintly of peach and mandarin orange. 85 and Bottled Torrontés (Mendoza). Flowery, —M.S. It lacks freshness, fruit and varietal correctness. tropical aromas are pure Torrontés, although this abv: 13% Price: $32 Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. one turns to applesauce the longer it breathes. A abv: 13% Price: $17 healthy-feeling but generic palate deals flavors of Vinilo 2015 Ruido Blanco (Uco Valley). This Thompson seedless white grapes and honeydew. It 87 music-themed blend of Chardonnay and Famiglia Meschini 2015 Reserva Chardon- has a fresh but faint finish. Vino Del Sol.Best Buy. Chenin Blanc is named after vinyl records, and the 83 nay (Mendoza). Floral, oily aromas are not —M.S. name means “white noise.” The nose is made up of typical of Chardonnay. A plump, melony mouthfeel abv: 13% Price: $10 simple apple and stone-fruit aromas, and the wine is chunky, while this wine tastes both tropical and tastes of briny orange, finishing racy and salty. Hand bitter, with a bath-soap character. Vino Andes LLC. Tercos 2016 Torrontés (Mendoza). Oily, floral Picked Selections. —M.S. —M.S. 83 aromas are typical of this variety. A round abv: 12% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 but flat palate shows modest acidity, while this tastes lightly oxidized and of lychee and nectarine. Alfredo Roca 2016 Roca Chenin Blanc-Char- Familia Colombi 2013 Reserva Chardonay The finish is flat. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. 85 donnay (Mendoza). Mild white-fruit aro- 82 Chardonnay (Mendoza). An oxidized nose abv: 13% Price: $14 mas are nonspecific but clean. This blend of Chenin and a deep burnished gold color are telling. Acidity Blanc and Chardonnay has a simple, citrusy palate barely keeps this Chard upright. A highly briny fla- feel and briny nectarine flavors. A briny flavor qual- vor profile is salty, lightly vegetal and oaky. Harrison SAUVIGNON BLANC ity remains on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. Imports. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19 Alpamanta 2016 Breva Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12.2% Price: $12 87 (Luján de Cuyo). This cloudy, unfiltered Sau- vignon Blanc charts new territory for Argentina. TORRONTÉS Ripe flavors of peach, pear and melon turn more OTHER WHITE WINES bitter on the finish, which isn’t long due to modest El Esteco 2016 Don David Reserve Torrontés acidity. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.S. Aniello 2016 Soil Blanco de Pinot Noir (Río 88 (Calchaquí Valley). Lychee and a note of abv: 14.1% Price: $42 88 Negro Valley). The off color of this wine is fresh green veggies define the nose on this well- a hint that it’s unusual, and a white from Pinot Noir made Torrontés from Salta. A lemony palate is Zolo 2016 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown is indeed not too common. This shows roundness snappy but also oily, which is common for this grape 85 and Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). with acidic balance. A pop of melon and peach fla- type. Salty nectarine and lychee flavors hold steady Lean, largely neutral citrus aromas set up a palate vors turns slightly bitter on a fresh yet fairly long on a developed finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, with medium weight. Melon, pineapple and pas- finish. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. Ltd. —M.S. sion-fruit flavors are fresh but minimal. A bright abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 13.9% Price: $17 finish makes this a good match for ceviche. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S. Ricardo Santos 2016 Semillon (Mendoza). Domingo Hermanos 2016 Hermanos Torron- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 88 Aromas of butterscotch, vanilla and melony 87 tés (Salta). Floral aromas of gardenia and fruits rest comfortably in front of a smooth pal- honeysuckle include lychee and a hint of green pep- Alfredo Roca 2016 Dedicatión Personal Sau- ate. Melon, honey and floral flavors finish full but per. The palate on this textbook Torrontés is oily 84 vignon Blanc (San Rafael). Slightly gritty, healthy courtesy of just-enough acidity. Global but fresh. Flavors of lychee and melon finish with nutty aromas indicate that this Sauvignon Blanc is Vineyard Importers. —M.S. light notes of salt and bitterness. Vine Connections. starting to break down. This wine maintains a citric abv: 13.5% Price: $16 —M.S. yet oily mouthfeel, finishing with short flavors of abv: 13.9% Price: $15 salty white peach. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. Alfredo Roca 2016 Fincas Tocai (Mendoza). abv: 12.1% Price: $18 85 Overall this Tocai is fairly good from start to Finca El Origen 2016 Reserva Estate Torron- finish. Apple and matchstick aromas lead to a wide 87 tés (Salta). Honeydew and nectarine aromas palate. Apple, peach and persimmon flavors show a are fresh and representative of good Torrontés. This WHITE BLENDS bit of salt and finish short. Hand Picked Selections. wine is round, oily and citric in feel, while lychee —M.S. and green-melon flavors hold through the finish. Bressia 2015 Lágrima Canela (Mendoza). abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. 90 Waxy, dusty apple and oak aromas reflect abv: 13.8% Price: $13 the 30% Sémillon, but this is mostly Chardonnay Alfredo Roca 2016 Fincas Chenin Blanc in quantity, style, feel and flavors. Salty melon, 84 (Mendoza). Dusty white-fruit aromas are Aymara 2015 Estate Torrontés (Maipú). Flat tropical notes and nicely laid-out oak flavors turn a generic. This fuller-bodied Chenin Blanc tastes of 85 aromas of lanolin and oily white fruits lead touch bitter on a weighty but healthy finish. Drink to a round, full palate that’s getting tired. Salty

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 apple and acid-driven salt and brine. Hand Picked on the nose while the palate brings pink grapefruit finish preserves quality until the end. Drink through Selections. —M.S. and orange. A citric finish with a peppery note lacks 2021. MLX Services LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.2% Price: $14 acidity, so drink now. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $13 Fuego Blanco 2016 Gewürztraminer (Ped- Rule of Three 2013 Malbec (Uco Valley). For 84 ernal Valley). A scent of fresh-squeezed Zolo 2017 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown 92 full review see page 8. orange juice is likable, while this feels grabby and 85 and Bottled Rosé (Mendoza). This youthful abv: 14.2% Price: $60 rubbery but hollow. The finish is all flavors of apple pink-colored number smells of dusty cherry and and pickled green fruits. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. Lifesavers. A juicy palate has a soda-like feel, while Tapiz 2013 Black Tears Malbec (Uco Valley). abv: 12% Price: $25 flavors of raspberry and cherry are light and dilute 92 Blackberry, cassis and floral aromas are the across the finish. Vino Del Sol.Best Buy. —M.S. lead actors on a musky nose. This ripe Malbec feels Domaine Bousquet 2016 Reserve Made With abv: 12.9% Price: $10 thick and syrupy, while rich flavors of blackberry, 83 Organic Grapes Pinot Gris (Tupungato). Fruit cassis, chocolate and mocha finish smooth but shy. and freshness are in short supply in this salty Pinot For such a big wine, this is light on tannic bite. Gris. An angular palate is both chunky and acidic. MALBEC Drink through 2021. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. After salty baked-apple flavors, bitterness takes abv: 14.5% Price: $65 over. WISD LLC. —M.S. Lamadrid 2012 Matilde Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 13% Price: $15 94 Matilde 2012 is (once again) a richly oaked, Rutini 2014 Malbec (Mendoza). Dry, earthy, massive Malbec. Aromas of mocha, shoe polish, 91 oaky aromas suggest sandalwood along with Inacayal 2014 Pinot Grigio (Mendoza). Slight graphite, violets and blackberry are first rate. Bal- cassis and raisin. A full, grabby palate with muscu- 83 apple aromas are found on this fading Pinot ancing acidity is a vital cog in this loaded speci- lar tannins deals bold blackberry, plum and prune Gris that’s feeling flat and syrupy. Melon and pear men. Flavors of blackberry, cassis and raspberry are flavors. Spicy oak and chocolate are prominent flavors are a touch bitter on the finish. Domaine backed by brown sugar, chocolate and blackened flavors on a well-done, burly finish. Drink through Select Wine & Spirits. —M.S. spice on a long finish. Drink from 2018–2027. Vino 2023. Graziano Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12 Del Sol. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $95 Casa de Campo 2016 Moscato (Argentina). Terrazas de Los Andes 2012 Single Vineyard 81 Matchstick and green pepper lead the aromas Trapiche 2012 Terroir Series Finca Ambrosia 91 Las Compuertas Malbec (Mendoza). Charred, of this sweet-and-sour Moscato. Canned-fruit fla- 94 Single Vineyard Malbec (Uco Valley). Sat- almost burnt aromas dominate the nose on this vors bring some fruit to the palate but finish a bit urated in color as well as on the nose, this fruit- muscular, tannic Malbec. Like the nose, this tastes syrupy. Indigo Wine Group. —M.S. packed Malbec opens with grapy black-plum and largely of blackened hickory and coffee, meaning the abv: 12% Price: $8 cassis aromas. An intensely bold palate is loaded fruit is buried under a lot of barrel weight. Drink to the hilt with black cherry, blackberry and inte- through 2027. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. grated oak and spice flavors. A lush, steady finish abv: 15% Price: $60 SPARKLING WINES unfolds in due time and with no disparate parts; drink from 2019–2025. The Wine Group. Cellar Zolo 2012 Black Malbec (Mendoza). Extracted, Famiglia Meschini 2013 Magnifico (Men- Selection. —M.S. 91 grapy aromas suggest raisin and prune but 87 doza). Peach and cantaloupe aromas are abv: 15% Price: $55 this wine is not overtly overripe. In the mouth, it friendly and easy. A creamy palate with modest is grabby and a bit raisiny. Rich, heady flavors of acidity offers slightly sweet flavors of dulce de leche Pascual Toso 2013 Alta Barrancas Vineyards mocha, fig and prune finish with chunky weight. and melon. A modest finish with spice and sugary 93 Malbec (Mendoza). For full review see page Drink through 2020. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. notes closes this out. Vino Andes LLC. —M.S. 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Altocedro 2014 Reserva Old Vine Malbec Ruca Malen NV Brut (Argentina). This Tapiz 2012 Black Tears Malbec (Uco Valley). 90 (La Consulta). Interest-stirring aromas of 87 mature, yeasty sparkler from Mendoza 93 For full review see page 6. tea, stewed berry fruits, vanilla and oak segue into smells of brioche and baked apple. Flavors of sour- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 a chewy, dense palate with bulk. Savory, lightly dough bread, cider and white mushroom finish herbal berry flavors are draped with oak character, bready and soft, so drink now. Opici Wines. —M.S. Bodega Catena Zapata 2013 Nicasia Vineyard while this Malbec tastes of grainy oak and toast on abv: 12.5% Price: $32 92 Malbec (La Consulta). Briary blackberry and the finish. Drink through 2021. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. tobacco aromas are a touch flat and jammy. This abv: 14.9% Price: $34 has a linear palate feel with acidity to spare. Spicy, ROSÉS woody flavors of plum and blueberry finish with Pampas del Sur 2014 Gran Malbec (Men- acidic lift, leaving juicy brightness as this fades. 90 doza). Chunky, ripe, spicy aromas of plum Bodini 2016 Rosé of Malbec (Mendoza). Drink through 2028. MundoVino–The Winebow and prune suggest spice cake. A saturated palate is 88 Dusty peach aromas are round and hold Group. Cellar Selection. —M.S. full but in shape. Blackberry, cassis and bitter-choc- up to scrutiny. This densely colored Malbec rosé is abv: 13.5% Price: $115 olate flavors linger on a toasty finish with blackened ready to drink, with flavors of melon and peach. A oak. Drink through 2020. Saranty Imports. —M.S. touch of skins character adds complexity and tex- Punta del Cielo 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). By abv: 14.5% Price: $22 ture to the finish. Drink immediately. Vine Connec- 92 Mendoza standards, this is a more delicate tions. Best Buy. —M.S. Malbec, with aromas of spices, cocoa and oak as SonVida 2014 Malbec (Mendoza). Heady abv: 13.9% Price: $10 opposed to heavily extracted fruit and toast. Mild 90 berry and spice flavors are made darker and acidic chop lends tension to flavors of tomato, stronger by toasty oak notes. This wine has a fresh, Alta Vista 2016 Malbec Rosé (Mendoza). herbs, licorice and dried plum. A bright and healthy tannic, pulling palate that’s home to lightly herbal 85 Aromas of dish soap and fruit salad show plum and berry flavors. Additional spice and toasty

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oak notes give a bright, juicy finish extra gravitas. Nieto Senetiner 2015 Don Nicanor Malbec chewy, solid finish is good but less lively than the Drink through 2022. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. 89 (Luján de Cuyo). For full review see page 12. palate. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $27 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 14% Price: $20

Trapiche 2015 Perfiles Calcareo Malbec Septima 2014 Obra Malbec (Mendoza). Verum 2016 Malbec (Alto Valle del Río 90 (Mendoza). Mixed black-fruit aromas 89 Black-cherry aromas are rough around the 88 Negro). Jumpy plum and berry aromas are include spicy oak accents. A plump, seemingly on- edges due to a strong oak element and related clove a bit gritty and reduced. A fresh palate has a solid the-spot palate holds flavors of plum, berry, fresh scents. This Malbec is bulky and shows punchy tar- grip, while grapy flavors of black cherry and dark tomato and herbs. This Malbec is a touch meaty- taric acidity and hard tannins. Blackberry, tea and plum finish with toast and spice notes. This is tasting on the finish while avoiding heavy oak. It’s clove flavors are spicy and toasty across the finish. fruity, not oaky, with all the basics required of good a wine that’s good for all palates, wine novices and Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. Malbec. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. experts alike. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $20 Alfredo Roca 2016 Fincas Malbec (Men- Domaine Bousquet 2016 Finca Lalande Mal- Trapiche 2014 Gran Medalla Malbec (Men- 88 doza). Cherry and plum aromas are solid 87 bec (Mendoza). Racy plum and cherry aro- 90 doza). Dark berry aromas are smoky and but slightly herbal. A dense, compact palate is a bit mas lead to an edgy palate with bold acidity. Crisp, stout, and overall this well-oaked Malbec gives off heavy as cassis, spicy berry and oak flavors spread foxy flavors of raspberry and plum finish spicy and a sense of seriousness on the nose. In the mouth, out. Medicinal herbal notes are notable on a lush, with pronounced acidity. This wine emphasizes there’s tension but also balance. Flavors of black- powerful finish with minty oak. Hand Picked Selec- acidity and freshness over ripeness and heft. WISD berry and cassis are oaky but expressive. It’s spicy, tions. —M.S. LLC. —M.S. a touch resiny and lasting on the finish. Drink abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $16 through 2019. The Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Anko 2014 Oasis en Altura Flor de Cardon Familia Cassone 2016 Finca La Florencia Mal- 88 Malbec (Salta). Ripe berry, toasty oak and 87 bec (Mendoza). Cranberry, tomato leaf and Antigal 2014 Uno Malbec (Mendoza). Black- vanilla notes drive the nose on this Salta Malbec. herbal plum aromas lead an earthy bouquet. This 89 fruit aromas come with notes of fresh-cut In the mouth, it is creamy and thick, with modest Malbec feels saturated and dense, with rugged tan- grass, rose petal and berry jam. The mouthfeel is acidity. Oaky flavors of baked berry fruits and black nins. Baked blackberry, toasty oak and hard spice creamy and sticky, with modest acidity. Ripe, rich currant finish jammy, soft and spicy, with a perva- flavors feature some funkiness and savory notes flavors of berry fruits, cocoa and caramel finish sive note of oak-based clove. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. prior to a drawing, minty finish. Montcalm Wine jammy. Drink this tasty, saturated, soft-bodied Mal- abv: 14% Price: $25 Importers. —M.S. bec through 2018. Southern Vines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.9% Price: $18 Benvenuto de la Serna 2016 Mil Piedras Mal- 88 bec (Vista Flores). Solid berry and oak spice Filus 2015 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley). Bodega Catena Zapata 2014 High Mountain aromas turn darker and more rubbery as this airs 87 Inky berry, beet and oak aromas smell more 89 Vines Malbec (Mendoza). Spicy, woody aro- out. A strong-boned, grabby palate holds medicinal worked than natural in this full-bodied Malbec mas of oak and root beer are equal to the black-fruit berry and mild hickory flavors. On the finish, this is that’s a bit clunky on the palate. Flavors of plum, aromas this Malbec is offering. A mix of fresh acid- big but also tannic and bumpy. Cannon Wines Lim- herbs and cool mint finish spicy and slightly green. ity and creamy oak clash a bit on the palate. Fla- ited. —M.S. Bronco Wine Company. —M.S. vors of herbal berry fruits and chocolate finish with abv: 13.7% Price: $14 abv: 15% Price: $20 rubbing tannins, a flavor note of hickory, and a hint of toasty mint. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. Cielo y Tierra 2014 Don Juan Nahuel Malbec Phebus 2014 Gran Reserva Malbec (Men- —M.S. 88 (Mendoza). Heavy-handed oak on the nose 87 doza). Dark, burnt, crusty aromas lead to a abv: 13.5% Price: $24 is reflected through aromas of wet cement, char palate with choppy tannins. Spicy, rooty, peppery and wood resin. A grabby palate is full of oak tan- flavors of red bell pepper, tomato and plum finish Humberto Canale 2014 Gran Reserva Malbec nin, while this tastes saucy and earthy, with savory spicy, peppery and savory, with a burst of fresh- 89 (Patagonia). Saucy, earthy berry aromas berry and black-plum flavors. On the finish, the -fla ening acidity that adds energy and jump. Saranty are full of oak and clove notes. This wine feels full vor of residual raw oak is strong. The Sorting Table. Imports. —M.S. but not too heavy, with solid overall balance. Black- —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 berry, dark plum, toast and spicy oak flavors finish abv: 14% Price: $32 peppery and stout, with ripe, chewy tannins. Drink Aymara 2015 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). through 2022. New England Wine and Spirits Inc. Lagarde 2014 Guarda Malbec (Luján de 86 Spice and clove aromas are prominent on —M.S. 88 Cuyo). Oaky aromas of mocha and spice an oaky nose. This feels sassy and a bit abrasive. abv: 14% Price: $25 blend with racier scents of tomato and red plum. Rooty, lightly green-berry flavors finish earthy, This Malbec feels full in body but sinewy and tough. minty, peppery and with modest residual fruit. Uni- Milo 2014 Gran Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Flavors of spiced tomato, herbs and salty berry versal Beverage Importer. —M.S. 89 Jumpy berry aromas are crisp and slightly fruits are savory. It finishes with toasty, peppery abv: 14% Price: $16 charred. Rugged tannins and alert acidity create a flavors and choppy tannins. Askari O.H. —M.S. high-energy palate. Dark flavors of black fruits and abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Filus 2016 Uco Valley Vineyards Malbec chocolate are slightly herbal, while flavors of herbs, 86 (Mendoza). Mildly abrasive berry and plum clove and wood spice control an aggressive, fiery Rubus 2014 Icon Malbec (Mendoza). Blue- aromas are a bit rough and roasted. This feels good finish. Universal Beverage Importer. —M.S. 88 berry, plum and cardamom aromas include but normal for basic Malbec. Spice, mint and light abv: 14.3% Price: $23 a whiff of wood smoke. A balanced palate has energy green notes have a mild impact on cherry and plum along with brambly berry and chocolate flavors. A flavors. It tastes peppery and persistently minty on the finish. Bronco Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Finca Las Moras 2016 Alma Mora Malbec fresh but choppy mouthfeel and flavors of tomato, sugar note on the finish. Drink through 2019. Vino 86 (San Juan). Leather, raisin, cherry and mild basil and herbal berry fruits. A savory finish con- Del Sol. —M.S. green aromas feed into a full, chewy palate that’s forms with the rest of the wine. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 kind of blocky. Medicinal, herbal plum and berry abv: 13.9% Price: $19 flavors are standard and finish with herbal, spicy Terrazas de Los Andes 2014 Reserva Caber- notes. Prestige Beverage Group. Best Buy. —M.S. Valentin Bianchi 2015 Sensual Malbec (Men- 89 net Sauvignon (Mendoza). Rooty, earthy abv: 13% Price: $10 85 doza). Lightly spicy raspberry aromas are berry aromas include a hint of clove. This feels full raw and peppery. This feels fleshy and pulpy, with and chewy, with broad shoulders and firm tannins. La Posta 2015 Pizzella Malbec (Mendoza). punchy acidity. Peppery berry flavors are boosted by Herbal blackberry flavors come with tea and spice 86 Crisp cherry and plum aromas are gritty. toasty oak that carries over to a mildly hot finish. notes. It is stocky and woody on a finish that tastes This Malbec shows wiry acidity but the palate is Quintessential Wines. —M.S. like campfire smoke. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. still a touch soupy. Salty plum and oak spice flavors abv: 13.1% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 include notes of clove and pepper. As a whole, this is oaky and fairly heavy. Vine Connections. —M.S. Maal 2015 Biutiful Malbec (Mendoza). Bodega Renacer 2014 Punto Final Estate abv: 13.5% Price: $18 84 Earthy, mulchy berry aromas lack fresh- 88 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). ness and clarity. This is a dense, meaty, thick Mal- Minty, roasted berry aromas open this well-built Valentin Bianchi 2015 Famiglia Bianchi Mal- bec with stewed black-plum and woodspice flavors. Cabernet that’s packed with plum, raspberry and 86 bec (Mendoza). Woody aromas of clove and Used tea bag and baked berry flavors show on the wood-spice flavors. There’s nothing complicated spice clash a bit with jammy, stewy berry scents. finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. about this lively, oaky wine that runs long on the This wine feels pushy and resiny, with high acidity abv: 14.7% Price: $20 finish. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —M.S. that makes the palate feel tomatoey. Herbal, oaky abv: 14% Price: $12 plum and tomato flavors finish with a blanket of Valentin Bianchi 2015 Famiglia Bianchi Made oak and related clove flavors. Quintessential Wines. 82 with Organically Grown Grapes Malbec (Men- Finca El Origen 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- —M.S. doza). Raisin and prune aromas are up front, and 88 gnon (Mendoza). Raspberry and plum aro- abv: 14.1% Price: $20 overall this Malbec is not showing any fresh fruit on mas include notes of brown sugar and warm pave- the nose. A wide palate lacks cut and shape, while ment. A dense, chewy palate is packed with fruit Valle Austral 2016 Selección Malbec (Men- this tastes weedy, raisiny and green. Quintessential and tannins. Flavors of minty oak and berry fruits 86 doza). Saucy plum and cherry aromas are Wines. —M.S. dissolve into a heap of tannin and oak on the finish. respectable but unsophisticated. This Malbec feels abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. full and rugged, with hard tannins. Generic berry abv: 12.5% Price: $10 flavors include a note of prune, while this tastes herbal and slightly chocolaty on the finish. Austral CABERNET SAUVIGNON Luigi Bosca 2015 La Linda Cabernet Sauvi- Wines and Beverages LLC. —M.S. 88 gnon (Luján de Cuyo). Earthy plum aromas abv: 13.4% Price: $13 Pascual Toso 2014 Reserva Barrancas Vine- come with a stewy but interesting note of tomato 91 yards Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). For full and herbs. This feels solid, although the tannins Finca Adelma 2014 Reserva Malbec (Men- review see page 10. are rubbery. Berry and cassis flavors are lightly 85 doza). Earthy, murky aromas of cherry and abv: 14% Price: $25 herbal and chocolaty, while this wine is focused and plum lack freshness and brightness. This wine is slightly scratchy on the finish. Frederick Wildman & jammy and a bit clumsy on the palate, with saucy, Mendoza Vineyards 2014 Gran Reserva by Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. savory berry and plum flavors. An herbal, jammy- 90 Richard Bonvin Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 tasting finish leaves you wanting more. Justin Brass doza). Baked plum and berry aromas are earthy, Exceptional Wine Imports. —M.S. savory and a touch cheesy but not overdone. This Antigal 2014 Uno Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- abv: 14% Price: $29 Cabernet is more heavy and syrupy than lean. Fla- 87 doza). Initial aromas of desert herbs and vors of lemony oak, brown sugar and baked berry blackberries lose steam with airing. A flush pal- Finca El Origen 2016 Estate Malbec (Men- fruits finish with fig and chocolate accents. Drink ate delivers candied cherry and chocolate flavors 85 doza). Medicinal cherry and plum aromas this ripe, full-bodied wine over the next couple of that carry over to the solid finish. Southern Vines. set up a palate with clipped, hard tannins. Forced years. Mendoza Vineyards. —M.S. —M.S. flavors of oak and carob are more obvious than the abv: 15% Price: $25 abv: 13.9% Price: $18 wine’s plum and cassis notes. Oak dominates the creamy, charred finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Finca El Origen 2014 Gran Reserva Vista Aymara 2014 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Best Buy. —M.S. 89 Flores Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 87 (Mendoza). A mix of spice, oak, tomato, abv: 12.5% Price: $10 (Uco Valley). Aromas of black fruits, barrel toast plum and rubbery aromas announce a palate that and marshmallow set up a palate that’s tannic and blends plump ripeness with pulling tannins. Dry, Los Andicos 2016 Selección Especial Malbec choppy but full of life. Savory, spicy berry flavors spicy plum and berry flavors are steady on the fin- 85 (Mendoza). Earthy berry aromas come with come with chocolaty oak notes prior to a finish ish. Universal Beverage Importer. —M.S. woodspice notes. This is raw and acidic on the pal- that’s rough and tannic but true. Carolina Wine abv: 14% Price: $16 ate, and overall it feels prickly and a bit disjointed. Brands USA. —M.S. Saucy plum flavors are salty, while the punch of red- abv: 14.6% Price: $23 Bressia 2014 Monteagrelo Cabernet Sauvi- fruit acidity propels a tangy finish. Mack & Schuhle 87 gnon (Mendoza). Funky aromas of animal Inc. —M.S. Lamadrid 2015 Single Vineyard Cabernet hide, compost and tea are challenging and require abv: 13% Price: $15 89 Sauvignon (Agrelo). Brandied aromas of patience. This Cab is grippy and tannic on the pal- maple and prune are ripe and jammy. In the mouth, ate. Flavors of stewed tomato, green herbs, oak and Ruca Malen 2015 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). this Cab is big and a bit abrasive due to scratchy caramel never fully come together. Kysela Père et 85 Jammy, roasted aromas are more savory and tannins. Saucy, savory, slightly stewed plum and Fils. —M.S. offbeat than common and fruity. This Malbec has a blackberry flavors are meaty, showing a brown- abv: 14.5% Price: $27

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BUYINGGUIDE

Alfredo Roca 2014 Dedicatión Personal Cab- died berry and cherry, but also green herbs. A hard, bouncy, fresh palate is cheerful, while flavors of 86 ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Heavily oaked choppy finish is more gravelly than glassy. Quintes- plum, blackberry, cassis and spices are toasty and from top to bottom, this smells of wood grain and sential Wines. —M.S. forward-moving on the finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. earthy berry fruits. The palate is drawing and fierce, abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.8% Price: $15 while baked plum and woody flavors finish with grinding tannins. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. Salentein 2016 Portillo Estate Bottled Cab- Lamadrid 2015 Single Vineyard Reserva abv: 13.6% Price: $20 85 ernet Sauvignon (Valle de Uco). A hard coat- 89 Bonarda (Agrelo). Dark, tarry aromas of ing of woodspice sits atop herbal plum and berry baked black fruits lead to a lively, jumpy palate with Antis 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon aromas. This feels tough and nearly impermeable. resiny oak. Roasted berry and hickory-smoke flavors 86 (Mendoza). Earthy aromas of stewed plum Spicy, briary plum flavors are lean and taste woody finish with a wave of forceful, dominating oak, leav- and burnt leaves come in front of a drawing, raw on a dry, tannic finish. Palm Bay International.Best ing a barbecued taste. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. palate with fresh acidity. Roasted, savory plum and Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23 berry flavors are fairly standard. This wine is dense abv: 13% Price: $10 but still lively on the finish. Universal Beverage Nieto Senetiner 2016 Bonarda (Luján de Importer. —M.S. 88 Cuyo). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $13 CABERNET FRANC abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Casarena 2015 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Lamadrid 2013 Single Vineyard Gran Reserva Ruca Malen 2015 Yauquen Bonarda (Men- 86 (Luján de Cuyo). Floral aromas of blueber- 91 Cabernet Franc (Agrelo). Earthy aromas of 86 doza). Earthy plum and red-berry aromas ries blend with funky notes of coffee grounds on this Boston baked beans and stewed berry fruits set up a are suggestive of tomato. This kicks around the pal- unusual rendering of Cabernet Sauvignon. A hard stout, dense, ripe palate. This wine tastes of baked ate with lively acidity and hard tannins. Roasted, palate hammers down with tannins, tasting of burnt berries and cassis. A finish with spice-cake flavors savory plum and oak flavors taste spicy and pep- coffee, green herbs, spiced plum and black currant. feels dense and meaty, with a savory aftertaste. Vino pery, with fruit pushed to the fringes. Opici Wines. A minty flavors rises up on a finish that pulls up Del Sol. —M.S. —M.S. short. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $24 abv: 13.3% Price: $12 abv: 13.8% Price: $20 Alpamanta 2013 Estate Cabernet Franc Domaine Bousquet 2016 Made With Organi- 90 (Mendoza). Initial aromas of stewy prune PINOT NOIR 86 cally Grown Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon and raisin freshen up with airing. This has a full, (Tupungato). Smoky plum aromas give way to a grabby, muscular build and flavors of brown sugar Aniello 2016 006 Riverside Estate Pinot crisp palate with sheer acidity. Flavors of tomato, and savory berry fruits. A rich finish deals molas- 86 Noir (Río Negro Valley). Cherry and plum plum and cherry are more raw than voluptuous. On ses notes and chewy tannins. T. Edward Wines Ltd. aromas are earthy but not distinctive or pushy. This the finish, this racy Cab displays enamel-peeling Best Buy. —M.S. Pinot from Patagonia is lifted by bold acidity, while acidity and a can’t-miss sense of freshness. WISD abv: 15% Price: $13 spicy red plum and peppery flavors finish juicy and LLC. —M.S. steady. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $13 Durigutti 2013 Reserva Cabernet Franc abv: 13% Price: $17 90 (Mendoza). For full review see page 11. Salentein 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Altocedro 2016 Año Cero Pinot Noir (La Con- 86 (Uco Valley). Gamy aromas lead to a sinewy, 85 sulta). Tea, tomato, baking spice and briny lean palate. This funky Cabernet tastes of creamy Andeluna 2013 Pasionado Cabernet Franc red-plum aromas lead to a creamy, almost candied oak, plum and green herbs. It finishes a bit weedy, 87 (Tupungato). Familiar Cab Franc aromas of palate. Flavors of plum and dried cherry carry with savory offsets. Palm Bay International. —M.S. dry spice, green herbs, fennel and pepperoni feed plenty of oak plus pepper and spice notes. Finishing abv: 14% Price: $19 into a narrow palate that’s high in acidity and draw- flavors of cocoa, nutmeg and clove are derivative of ing. Spiky tomato, plum, herb and pepper flavors barrel aging. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. Finca El Origen 2015 Reserva Estate Caber- finish dry and pulling, with a saucy aftertaste. San abv: 14.5% Price: $17 85 net Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Leathery ani- Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. mal notes blend with stalky berry and plum aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Verum 2016 Pinot Noir (Alto Valle del Río in front of a bumpy palate with hard tannins. This 85 Negro). Stalky aromas of tomato leaf are tastes of herbal plum and berry, with a mildly green, Aymara 2013 Reserva Cabernet Franc (Men- light on fruit but generous on the oak. A creamy oaky accent. That same oaky, green action repeats 85 doza). Aromas of latex, iodine and stewed mouthfeel with soft acidity struggles to support fla- on the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. berry fruits are challenging. This Cab Franc feels vors of stewed plum and brown sugar. Residual oak abv: 13.6% Price: $12 jumbled, chunky and a bit out of shape. Herbal, and related caramel flavors carry the finish. Vino woody notes ride heavily on top of saucy, lightly Del Sol. —M.S. Luigi Bosca 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon green berry flavors. It finishes with green-leaning abv: 14.1% Price: $20 85 (Maipú). Plum and berry aromas include mint, basil and fennel notes. Universal Beverage notes of lemon and shaved roots. This is a funky Importer. —M.S. Alfredo Roca 2016 Fincas Pinot Noir (Men- Cabernet with choppy tannins that create an abra- abv: 14.1% Price: $16 84 doza). Dilute yet raisiny aromas struggle to sive mouthfeel. Salty berry, tomato and oak flavors stir interest. This wine feels wide and flat on the finish woody. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. palate, with no real focal point. Chunky, slightly abv: 14% Price: $22 BONARDA bitter flavors of apple skins and wood spice finish with a blast of oaky clove. Hand Picked Selections. Pascual Toso 2015 Estate Bottled Cabernet Lamadrid 2016 Single Vineyard Bonarda —M.S. 85 Sauvignon (Mendoza). Wiry, minty berry 89 (Agrelo). This Bonarda could be your abv: 13.3% Price: $15 aromas are a bit weedy and green. Jagged tannins everyday red or house pour with no issues. Solid deny a smooth flow on the palate that tastes of can- berry aromas are fairly woody and a bit earthy. A

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Bodega Chacra 2016 Barda Pinot Noir (Pata- through 2026. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cel- herbal notes. This is balanced and slightly tannic on 83 gonia). Dusty, jumbled aromas of prune, lar Selection. —M.S. a muscular, tight finish. Drink through 2022. Seed raisin, sugar beet and leather are disparate. Chunky abv: 14.5% Price: $165 Wine, LLC. —M.S. and flabby in feel, this tastes of oak, tomato and abv: 13.7% Price: $75 stewed berries. A flat finish fails to bring it around. Mascota 2014 Unánime Gran Vino Tinto Kobrand. —M.S. 93 (Mendoza). Dusty berry and plum aromas Serca 2014 Gran Corte Single Vineyard (Valle abv: 12.5% Price: $30 are inviting and come with notes of vanilla and 92 de Uco). For full review see page 8. coconut. This blend of Cab Sauvignon, Malbec and abv: 14.9% Price: $60 Cabernet Franc is flush while displaying a firm grip. TEMPRANILLO Flavors of vanilla, mocha, black cherry and black- Achaval-Ferrer 2014 Quimera (Mendoza). berry finish deep and with a lasting hint of fig. Drink 91 Tarry, fiery aromas of berry fruits and oaky Alfredo Roca 2013 Reserva de Familia Tem- through 2024. Saranty Imports. Editors’ Choice. spice lead to an iron-fisted palate with rubbery tan- 88 pranillo (Mendoza). Reedy, fiery, lightly —M.S. nins. This blend of Malbec, Cab Franc, Cabernet green berry aromas suggest a wild pasture with abv: 14.5% Price: $27 Sauvignon and Merlot tastes of savory berry fruits horses. This is a chunky, big-boned Argentinean and plum. The finish is spicy and delivers lushness version of Tempranillo with saucy berry flavors and Proemio 2013 I Barrel Selection (Mendoza). and beefy weight. Drink through 2022. Stoli Group hints of tomato to go with plenty of oak. On the fin- 93 For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. USA. —M.S. ish, resiny wood notes and mocha flavors prevail. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $31 Altamira 2010 Navigato Family Selection Famiglia Meschini NV Gran Reserva Pacifico 92 (Uco Valley). Concentrated berry and plum 91 Blend (Mendoza). Raisiny berry, spice cake aromas are potent. In the mouth, this blend of Mal- and molasses aromas are rich and heady. This non- RED BLENDS bec, Petit Verdot and Cab Franc is massive but also vintage blend of Malbec and Petit Verdot is a bit abrasive and narrowing due to fierce tannins. Giant thick and oaky on the palate. Flavors of blackberry Bodega Catena Zapata 2013 Nicolas Cat- raspberry and blackberry flavors include chocolate and creamy oak finish ripe and rooty, with a reprise 94 ena Zapata (Mendoza). Generous oak is and coffee notes. It settles on the finish but remains of raisin. Vino Andes LLC. —M.S. reflected via aromas of hickory and smoke on the scratchy out the back door. Drink through 2025. abv: 14.7% Price: $30 nose of this lusty but refined blend of Cabernet Vistaflores Estate LLC. —M.S. and Malbec. In the mouth, rugged tannins and high abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Finca Agostino 2013 De la (Mendoza). acidity suggest further cellaring. Flavors of plum, 90 Stewy, savory aromas of prune, coffee berry, chocolate and tomato sauce finish with dry, Andeluna 2013 Pasionado Cuatro Cepas grinds and turned earth lack freshness and liveli- pulling tannins and a sense of acidic freshness. 92 (Mendoza). Lightly baked, savory aromas ness. A full, dense, rubbery palate deals earthy, Drink through 2027. MundoVino–The Winebow of berry fruits are supported by tarry aromas. This roasted berry, plum and currant flavors. This is big Group. Cellar Selection. —M.S. blend of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc along with and grabby on a savory tasting finish. Hand Picked abv: 13.5% Price: $125 Merlot feels grabby and tight, with pulling tannins. Selections. —M.S. Blackberry and baked plum flavors finish with cool abv: 14% Price: $42 El Esteco 2013 Chañar Punco (Calchaquí herbal notes, a hint of tea and density. Drink through 94 Valley). This single-vineyard Malbec blend 2024. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. Mi Terruño 2011 Limited Release Malbec- from vineyards that sit at 6,500 feet smells dark, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Rich aro- grilled and rubbery, but also meaty and full of fruit. mas of molasses, chocolate and fig paste announce A full, lush palate avoids fierceness and lays on the Cheval des Andes 2013 Red (Mendoza). a ripe, thick Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon blend. On richness. Toasty, lightly herbal berry and plum fla- 92 Inky aromas of black fruits include hints of the palate, this is grabby, intense and oaky. Flavors vors are highly appealing. The wine tastes of herbs, graphite. This feels lush and dense, with fairly soft of oak grain, graphite, chocolate and berry fruits fin- salted meat and spices on a complex finish. Drink tannins. Blackberry, beef jerky and leathery notes ish saturated and heavy, lacking elegance. Copa Fina through 2024. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Edi- comprise the flavor profile. Notes of coffee and Imports CA. —M.S. tors’ Choice. —M.S. chocolate grace a ripe, rich finish. Drink through abv: 14.3% Price: $25 abv: 15.5% Price: $68 2021. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $99 Tikal 2015 Patriota Malbec-Bonarda Antigal 2010 Aduentus Classic (Mendoza). 90 (Mendoza). Spicy red-berry aromas with 93 Hedonistic berry, raisin and fig flavors are El Esteco 2013 Altimus (Calchaquí Valley). an accent of musky, cheesy oak get this Malbec- complete. While this is tight and tough on the pal- 92 Potent but integrated oak and blackberry Bonarda blend moving in an interesting way. A ate, it’s solid as a boulder in terms of structure and aromas come with a note of licorice. This blend tight, pointy palate with lean acidity houses fla- balance. A ripe mix of black-fruit and mocha flavors of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab Franc is vors of plum and berry along with creamy oak and finishes with all the power one could ask for. Drink blocky and almost collapses under its own weight. vanilla. Lactic oak is a factor on an otherwise bright this Bordeaux blend through 2027. Southern Vines. Herbal, spicy flavors of fresh mushroom, roasted and spicy finish. Vine Connections. —M.S. Cellar Selection. —M.S. plum and tomato are typical of Salta. It finishes full, abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 14.8% Price: $28 saturated and a bit chunky. Drink through 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. Finca Agostino 2013 Familia (Mendoza). Luigi Bosca 2011 Icono (Luján de Cuyo). No abv: 15% Price: $48 89 Earthy, leathery, stewed aromas are more 93 need to drink this intense, highly structured savory than fruity. The palate on this Malbec-led Malbec-Cabernet blend soon, although you could. Seed 2015 Red Wine (Mendoza). Cherry, blend is full, flush and resiny. Savory blueberry, Aromas of blackberry, cedar and desert brush are 92 plum and blackberry aromas are rolled into Middle Eastern spice notes and oaky flavors reside intense but also complex. Flavors of baked plum, an impressive whole on this blend of Cab Sauvi- in front of a roasted finish with grab and grip. Hand cassis and blackberry finish strong and with modest gnon, Malbec and Cab Franc. A jammy, hefty pal- Picked Selections. —M.S. heat as well as coffee and chocolate flavors. Drink ate holds flavors of blackberry, buttery oak and foxy abv: 14% Price: $37

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Altocedro 2015 La Consulta Select (Uco Val- Shafer 2015 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay Bernardus 2015 Rosella’s Vineyard Chardon- 86 ley). Ripe berry aromas come with a hint 94 (Carneros). For full review see page 4. 91 nay (Santa Lucia Highlands). This bottling’s of animal. This blend of Malbec, Cabernet, Tem- abv: 14.9% Price: $52 extremely fresh aromas of lime meet with a rounded pranillo and Syrah is edgy and lively in feel. Solid clarified butter, drawing one in for sip after sip. but limited black-fruit flavors finish quick and fiery. Sonoma-Loeb 2015 El Novillero Chardonnay That vibrancy extends to the lightly presented pal- Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 94 (Carneros). Sourced from the famed San- ate, where flavors of lime juice, lemon peels and abv: 14.4% Price: $20 giacomo Vineyard, this wine dazzles in juicy apple, crisp pear ride a rising wave of acidity across a peach and savory brine, bringing together and layer- tightly wound texture. —M.K. Gen Del Alma 2014 Otra Piel Gualtallary ing all the elements in complex harmony. Intense and abv: 14.4% Price: $40 86 Suelo Gen Fuerza Tranquila (Tupungato). slightly smoky, it remains balanced, with refreshing This blend of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon acidity that supports the blustery fruit. —V.B. Flowers 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). includes Pinot Noir. The nose is floral and redolent abv: 14.1% Price: $42 91 For full review see page 9. of blueberry, red plum and licorice root. On the pal- abv: 13.4% Price: $50 ate, it’s an acid bomb, with sour flavors of plum and Migration 2015 Dierberg Vineyard Chardon- red currant. A pinching, drawing finish is lively and 93 nay (Santa Maria Valley). Fresh apple-cider Foppiano 2015 Della’s Block Chardonnay fresh. Brazos Wine Imports. —M.S. aromas meet with tangerine rinds, gardenia and wet 91 (Russian River Valley). Dark-golden colored, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 stone on the very intriguing and enjoyable nose of this block designate opens in a wealth of butter and this single vineyard expression by the Duckhorn wild vanilla, before unveiling interwoven layers of Pampas del Sur 2016 Tenacious Reserve family of wines. There is great energy to the sip, juicy acidity and integrated oak. Gravenstein apple 85 (Mendoza). Candied berry aromas include a carrying flavors of salt, browned butter, marmalade and pear dominate in flavor, adding to the overall mild spice note. This 50-50 blend of Cabernet and and ripe nectarines. —M.K. succulence and success of this wine. —V.B. Malbec feels juicy but short on depth. Spicy, briny abv: 14.1% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $37 red-fruit flavors dry out on a finish with red bell pepper and black-pepper notes. Excelsior Wines. Neyers 2016 304 Chardonnay (Sonoma Marimar Estate 2015 Acero Don Miguel Vine- —M.S. 93 County). For full review see page 5. Editors’ 91 yard Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian River Val- abv: 13% Price: $11 Choice. ley). For full review see page 10. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $32 Finca El Origen 2015 Estate Blend Malbec- 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Furry Stewart Cellars 2015 Farina Vineyard Char- Migration 2015 Running Creek Vineyard Char- berry and minty oak aromas are forced. This Cab- 93 donnay (Sonoma Mountain). This wine is a 91 donnay (Russian River Valley). This estate ernet-Malbec blend is saturated and intense to the standout—richly woven in Golden Delicious apple, vineyard in the heart of the appellation provides point of being hard. Medicinal plum and berry fla- peach, honey and toasted oak that’s integrated and this wine with a generosity of spirit and flavor, vors are basic, while a peppery shot of oaky mint balanced while being beautiful. Bright Meyer lemon all within a light-bodied package of elegance and returns on the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. peaks on the midpalate before a spicy twist of ginger restraint. Pear and applesauce give it a fruity edge —M.S. rides out the finish. —V.B. of ripe round flavor that’s likable and nourished by abv: 14.2% Price: $15 abv: 14.1% Price: $40 touches of citrus. The finish is as crisp as a lime chaser. —V.B. Zolo 2015 Signature Red (Mendoza). Raw, Covenant 2014 Lavan Chardonnay (Sonoma abv: 13.5% Price: $55 84 reedy aromas of currant and cherry lead 92 Mountain). Voluptuous and expansive in to a rubbery, pinched palate. Cherry and berry fla- texture, this wine offers a wealth of honey-apple and Miner 2014 Wild Yeast Chardonnay (Napa vors are generic, as is the finish, which has hints margarita-lime flavor accented by a streak of stone. 91 Valley).­ Thickly concentrated, this wine of brown sugar. The blend is Merlot, Bonarda and The richness is balanced by juicy acidity that lifts offers a wealth of crème brûléee richness and com- Malbec. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. the experience all along to the finish. Kosher. —V.B. plexity, dotted in golden honey and a twist of lime. abv: 13.8% Price: $11 abv: 14.1% Price: $38 Supple and medium in build, it integrates the oak and ripeness at its core, finishing with a brightness Layer Cake 2015 Sea of Stones (Mendoza). Delgado 2014 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). of acidity that refreshes. —V.B. 82 Marginally fresh on the nose, with aromas of 92 For full review see page 6. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 black tea and compost, this is sugary and confected. abv: 14.8% Price: $30 Hickory and syrup-like flavors end with the tang of Sojourn 2015 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay barbecue sauce. Hundred Acre Winery. —M.S. Marimar Estate 2014 Bonita’s Hill Don Miguel 91 (Sonoma Coast). Hefty and concentrated abv: 14.5% Price: $16 92 Vineyard Unfiltered Chardonnay (Russian in flavor, with a thick layered texture, this wine River Valley). For full review see page 7. is made from two blocks of the famous vineyard. abv: 13.8% Price: $49 Mango, apple skin and substantial background oak CALIFORNIA give it a tension between sugar and spice. —V.B. Presqu’ile 2015 Chardonnay (Santa Maria abv: 14.3% Price: $48 CHARDONNAY 92 Valley). Very light in the glass, this bottling from a very cool-climate vineyard shows a clean line Sojourn 2015 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardon- Pahlmeyer 2015 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). of honeysuckle, crisp Asian pear and tart lime blos- 91 nay (Sonoma Coast). Salty wood and brine 95 Gorgeous aromatics of heady voluptuousness soms on the nose. There is great tension to the tight show this vineyard’s straight shot to the sea, as conjure elements of caramel, honey and baked apple and tart lime-laced sip, with some nectarine ripe- bright lifted acidity helps to further prove the point. behind a golden hue of color in this memorable, no- ness in the midpalate, lots of chalky texture and a Focused and tense on the palate, there’s a sharp, holds-barred white. The flavors follow through along sizzle of acidity. Racy as can be, it’s great now, but stony minerality that comes into play here, along- a lengthy layered pathway lined in sparks of anise will last for years. Drink now through 2030. Cellar side etchings of lemon peel and green apple. —V.B. and key lime, finishing in juicy crisp acidity. —V.B. Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $45 abv: 14.8% Price: $75 abv: 13.5% Price: $35

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Steele 2015 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay V. Sattui 2015 Reserve Chardonnay (Napa J. Wilkes 2015 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Val- 91 (Carneros). From a great vineyard site, this 90 ­Valley). Golden in color, this is a creamy 88 ley). White peach, sea salt, pecan, guava wine does justice to its mountain fruit and coastal voluptuous white wine, fermented and aged entirely and the slightest hint of sour cream show on the acidity, capturing both with ease. Juicy pear, apple, in new French oak. Melon, spicy nutmeg and fig nose of this bottling from the family that owns Bien pineapple and a gritty minerality surround big build flavor around a core of thick texture and con- Nacido Vineyard. It’s light and delicate on the sip, shoulders of body and weight, as aromas of flowers centration, finishing in buttery toast. —V.B. with stone-fruit and tangerine-laced citrus flavors puncture the fruit. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $60 held up by a pithy structure and acid that rises abv: 14.3% Price: $30 toward the finish. —M.K. WindRacer 2014 Chardonnay (Russian River abv: 14.2% Price: $22 Trefethen 2015 Chardonnay (Oak Knoll Dis- 90 Valley). For full review see page 12. 91 trict). For full review see page 10. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Left Bend 2015 Gali Vineyard Chardonnay abv: 13.5% Price: $36 88 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Lemon skin and ZD 2015 Reserve Chardonnay (Carneros). grapefruit pith show strongly on the nose of this Francis Coppola 2015 Dutton Ranch Jewell 90 Mid-weight and balanced in flavor and bottling along with tons of nearly ripe white flow- 90 Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay (Russian River texture, this reserve-tier wine combines pungent ers. There is a lot of citrus character on the sip, Valley). Bright golden color gives way to caramelized jasmine aromas with flavors of crunchy green apple which is almost too sharp with sourness but quite oak and densely packed flavors of yellow apple and and Meyer lemon. The finish shows a toasty oak compelling and interesting. The super racy charac- anise. Crisp, underlying acidity helps balance the note, layered in a touch of salt. —V.B. ter will mellow a tad with time and make this more lush mouthfeel of luxurious weight and incorporated abv: 14.3% Price: $75 accessible. —M.K. oak. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $36 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Au Jus 2015 Chardonnay (Monterey County). 89 For full review see page 12. MacMurray Estate Vineyards 2015 Chardon- Groth 2015 Hillview Vineyard Chardonnay abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 nay (Russian River Valley). Muted aromatics 90 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 11. slowly reveal a full-bodied gritty texture of miner- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Bernardus 2015 Sierra Mar Vineyard Char- ality that becomes crisp in the glass. Floral apple 89 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). This blossom, green apple and vanilla combine for a juicy Marimar Estate 2015 La Masía Don Miguel winery does an excellent job of providing a range palate of fruit and succulence. —V.B. 90 Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). of styles in their single-vineyard bottlings. In this abv: 13.8% Price: $20 For full review see page 11. case, richness is on display, with aromas of con- abv: 14.2% Price: $39 centrated lemon cream, buttered toast and a bit Rideau 2015 Chardonnay (Santa Maria of crushed chalk. Strong yellow-apple and melon 88 Valley). This longtime winery recently Robert Renzoni 2015 Barile Chardonnay flavors show on the sip as well as a jasmine and rebranded all of its packaging into a more art- 90 (Temecula Valley). Delicate in aromas of gardenia elements and a butterscotch finish. Fairly driven style, and it is buckling down on winemaking honeysuckle, Asian pear, Gravenstein apple and unctuous and loose in texture. —M.K. as well. This bottling from Sierra Madre Vineyard a smoky butter element, this shows that quality abv: 14.4% Price: $40 shows light aromas of white peach, grapefruit and Chardonnay can indeed succeed in this warmer the slightest hint of butterscotch. The chalky fla- region of Southern California. The wine is also soft Amici 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). vors are easy to like if not overly complex, with light and restrained on the sip, with fresh nectarine and 88 Floral in jasmine and apple blossom, this lemon and nectarine touches. —M.K. white-flower flavors, finishing with a familiar kiss wine offers a solid foundation of baked apple and abv: 14.3% Price: $42 of oak. —M.K. sizable oak, still youthfully wound up in concen- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 trated richness. Moderate acidity helps keep things Sarah’s Vineyard 2015 Chardonnay (Santa in check, as lengthy complexity comes to bear on the 88 Clara Valley). The nose of this bottling from Rutherford Hill 2015 Chardonnay (Napa finish. —V.B. the Dwarf Oak Vineyard shows a slightly funky 90 ­Valley). With a salty oak entry, this wine abv: 14.2% Price: $25 lime-pith element as well as lemon peel, pear juice invites, showing a touch of reduction and strong and hints of caramel and nuts. The zippy, acid- barrel presence. Crème brûlée and baked apple give Black Ridge 2014 Cheryl’s Chardonnay washed palate is driven by an edge of blood-orange it a richness and length that presents as juicy and 88 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Made in a richer pith that cuts through clean lines of chalk and green fleshy. —V.B. marzipan-laced style, this bottling shows browned tea. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 butter, butterscotch and baked apples on the nose. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 The palate is a tad oily with strong browned-butter Schug 2015 Heritage Reserve Chardonnay and green-apple flavors, but also very balanced, Virginia Dare 2015 Chardonnay (Russian 90 (Carneros). Entirely barrel fermented and with the unctuous custard elements cut by tart cit- 88 River Valley). Floral in jasmine flowers, aged in a combination of new and neutral French rus peels. —M.K. this wine aromatically could trick one into thinking oak, this white is fragrant in tropical caramel and abv: 14.1% Price: $45 it’s Sauvignon Blanc until more developed layers of rich on the palate, with a full-bodied expansive- anise, apple, lime and peach come to the fore. The ness of ripe baked apple and toasty oak. Lean on the Domenica Amato 2015 Bacigalupi Vineyard backbone of supportive oak adds complexity. —V.B. entry, it fleshes out midpalate before ending crisp 88 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Sweet abv: 13.5% Price: $25 and spicy in nutmeg. —V.B. vanilla and honeycomb ride along this wine’s thick abv: 14.5% Price: $45 concentration of texture and weight, an imprint of B.R. Cohn 2015 Sangiacomo Vineyard Char- intensity and ripeness that’s hard to shake. Toasted 87 donnay (Carneros). This wine opens with Starmont 2014 Chardonnay (Carneros). For oak supports the richness of baked apple and pear at a rich nose of graham cracker and a concentrated 90 full review see page 12. its core. —V.B. midpalate, which becomes full bodied and toasty in abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.1% Price: $55 oak. Around a gravelly texture are flavors of green

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olive, brine and baked pear, a mix of savory and Ca’ Momi 2015 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Covenant 2016 Red C Allen Nelson Vineyard sweet that finishes with a dash of nutmeg. —V.B. 85 Full and ripe, this wine offers thick meaty 90 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Sharp abv: 14.5% Price: $35 flavors of pineapple and peach, finishing in sweet acidity doesn’t get in the way of this wine’s com- vanilla oak. —V.B. plex body and length, accenting the crisp fruitiness Belharra 2015 Chardonnay (Knights Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $20 of lemon peel, grapefruit and white peach. Light- 87 This wine offers simple richness around a bodied and refreshing, it’ll stand up to food as well full-bodied frame, dotted in well-defined flavors of Cline 2015 Estate Grown Chardonnay as work as an apéritif all on its own. Kosher. —V.B. golden apple and white flower. Honey and toasted 84 (Sonoma Coast). Light in color, this afford- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 oak provide added concentration and texture in this able white is floral on the nose, with just a touch of tiny production wine from a small producer. —V.B. reduction and heady smoky oak. Simply executed, Lancaster 2015 Samantha’s Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $28 it offers generous flavors of apple, pear and peach. 90 Blanc (Alexander Valley). A barrel-fer- —V.B. mented white that offers complexity and nuance, Dreyer Sonoma 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma abv: 14% Price: $13 this wine is steely and fleshy in texture, integrated 87 County). Tight-grained acidity features and fully realized. Green apple, peach and vanilla prominently in this lightly bodied wine, which has combine effortlessly to reveal compelling flavor and an oaky backdrop against concentrated flavors of SAUVIGNON BLANC length. This is a food-friendly wine that can also dusty apple. —V.B. stand well on its own. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Michael Mondavi Family Estate 2015 Animo abv: 14.4% Price: $30 94 Heritage Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For Foppiano 2015 Estate Chardonnay (Russian full review see page 4. Matanzas Creek 2016 Sauvignon Blanc 87 River Valley). Stone fruit-fuzz and sugar abv: 14.4% Price: $65 90 (Alexander Valley). For full review see page apple combine along a freeway of thick texture and 11. voluptuous flavor in this full-bodied white, aged Barber 2016 Lumiere Laughing Raven Vine- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 in both new and neutral French barrels. Creamy 91 yard Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Valley). vanilla adds additional richness and texture as it Crisp and tart in lemon peel and grapefruit, the Wilderotter 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Sierra finishes strong and ripe. —V.B. loveliest aspect of this lightly ripe wine is its sub- 90 Foothills). A flinty aroma and slightly abv: 14.5% Price: $25 lime texture, an earthy velvety expression of fine- chalky texture work really well in this lean-flavored ness and elegance that persists in its delicacy. —V.B. but appetizing and full-bodied wine. It’s not overtly Uptick Vineyards 2014 Estate Chardonnay abv: 12.6% Price: $22 fruity, but has subtle, savory and earthy characters 87 (Russian River Valley). For full review see that are fascinating to taste, while the bone-dry bal- page 13. Clif Family 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Oak Knoll ance makes it extra appetizing. —J.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $30 91 District). Lime and lemon zest are layered abv: 15% Price: $22 within a complex structure of balanced acidity and Wild Thing 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma light-bodied refreshment in this likable wine, buoyed Castle Rock 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Men- 87 ­County). Woody oak shows the 50% barrel by fresh nuanced flavors of white peach. —V.B. 89 docino County). For full review see page 13. fermentation behind this wine, sourced largely from abv: 13.4% Price: $38 Best Buy. the Dry Creek Valley. Baked apple and vanilla cream abv: 13.5% Price: $10 accent a thickly concentrated frame of big flavor Knights Bridge 2015 Pont de Chevalier Sau- and soft lush texture. —V.B. 91 vignon Blanc (Knights Valley). Light and Kendall-Jackson 2015 Vintner’s Reserve Sau- abv: 13.7% Price: $18 creamy in lemon meringue with a shake of salt, this 89 vignon Blanc (California). Nicely ripe fruit 100% varietal white has full-flavored intensity and flavors and a full rounded texture give this afford- Benziger 2014 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). a floral aromatic streak that invites. Dry, it spent ably priced wine more presence than most. The 86 Simple in its offerings of juicy pear and fen- time aging in both new French oak and stainless aroma is honeydew melon and the flavors are ripe nel flavor, this light-bodied white is ready for the steel, riding both waves with graceful ease. —V.B. apple and Anjou pear, while the acidity is on the soft table, subdued in a backbone of buttery oak. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $40 side. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Benziger 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (North Director’s Cut 2015 Chardonnay (Russian 90 Coast). This well-made wine has the clas- Ziata 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). 86 River Valley). This offers concentration and sic fresh herb and gooseberry aromas, followed by 89 This is a lush and likable white, a touch weight despite a light take on ripeness, combining tangy acidity and bright lemon and grapefruit fla- sweet in perception, with fully voluptuous body and both sides of the coin in a package of moderate acid- vors. It’s a lively one: light, dry and well-balanced, texture. Peach and Good & Plenty black licorice play ity and lush tropical fruit. Meyer lemon, pineapple not to mention very affordable.Best Buy. —J.G. off the palate as a gravelly wet-stone note teases in shine brightest, as the texture of the wine is slightly abv: 13.5% Price: $15 the background. —V.B. gravelly. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Bodkin 2016 The Victor’s Spoils Sauvignon 90 Blanc (North Coast). An unusually bright- Miner 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- The Calling 2015 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay gold color and aromas like vanilla and nutmeg sig- 88 ley). Steely like a wet stone, this refreshing, 86 (Russian River Valley). This wine is youth- nal a complex style for this unusually textured and lightly-crafted white is aromatic in white flowers. It fully pugnacious, gamy and nutty with sharp acidity nicely viscous wine that is technically light bodied delivers restrained peach, apricot and lime on the that has yet to come into its own. From good fruit in terms of alcohol. Balanced out by good acidity, palate. The finish is tart in grapefruit. —V.B. grown by good people, it has potential to soar in it is not overtly fruity but goes for complexity and abv: 13.9% Price: $22 richly layered green apple and pear once it settles spiciness that linger on the finish. —J.G. into itself. —V.B. abv: 12.4% Price: $19 Navarro 2016 Cuvée 128 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 14.1% Price: $32 88 (Anderson Valley). This pale-colored, dry and light-bodied wine combines a rather smooth

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 texture with lively palate-cleansing acidity and light wine is tart and lengthy, fermented in both barrel Ferrari-Carano 2016 Pinot Grigio (Russian herb and citrus flavors. It doesn’t go deep but does and tank. Melon defines the bulk of the flavor. —V.B. 88 River Valley). Floral and stony in mineral- a good job of quenching the thirst quite well. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $21 ity, this is a delightful affordable quaff that’s waxy abv: 12.8% Price: $19 in peach and apricot. Fleshy and lushly soft, it Davis Bynum 2016 Virginia’s Block Jane’s should please a wide range of palates in its easygoing Pech Merle 2016 Valhall Vineyard Sauvi- 86 Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Val- approachability. —V.B. 88 gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Herbal and ley). Matchstick aromas are joined by a fleshy tropi- abv: 13.7% Price: $14 somewhat oaky, this wine is also spritzy and fresh cal character that defines this wine, which is aged in acidity, with tropical elements of pineapple that in stainless steel drums, neutral French oak and a Robert Renzoni 2016 Pinot Grigio (Temecula meet citrus-driven tones of grapefruit and lemon. touch of new Acacia. Robust and ripe, it offers a 88 Valley). This bottling will please many pal- —V.B. boldness of vanilla and melon. —V.B. ates, as the very light wine offers cool and crisp aro- abv: 14.3% Price: $21 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 mas of Gala apple, gardenia and scratched pomelo skin. It’s clean and crisp on the palate at first, and Peju 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Duckhorn 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- then come waves of riper yellow-apple and Anjou 88 Stainless-steel fermented and aged in neu- 86 ley). A hearty addition of 16% Semillon is pear flavors, making it a Pinot Grigio with some tral oak, this wine threads the line between grassy in this white, which is floral with peach and apri- body to chew on. —M.K. wet stone and fresh-squeezed grapefruit, offering cot. Fleshy plushness dominates alongside a simple abv: 13.5% Price: $24 dry refreshing acidity. Light bodied, it provides just layering of acidity that keeps it balanced, taking on enough oomph to hold its own at the table. —V.B. further fruit components of tropical pineapple and abv: 13.8% Price: $25 mango. —V.B. ROUSSANNE abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Rodney Strong 2016 Charlotte’s Home Sau- Terre Rouge 2015 Monarch Mine Vineyard 88 vignon Blanc (Northern Sonoma). Herbal Judd’s Hill 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- 92 Roussanne (Sierra Foothills). Butterscotch, and juicy in acidity, this perennially well-made 86 ley). Jalapeño and green-bean savory flavor butter, honey and roasted-peanut aromas lead to white is stainless steel-fermented with just a small is joined by a freshly cut grass feel in this lively similar boisterous flavors in this extremely rich percentage put in French oak. Voluptuously rich and light-bodied white. It is spritzy in acidity and has a and full-bodied wine from Rhône-style winemaker full bodied, it offers strongly etched flavors of peach taste of just-squeezed lemon. —V.B. Bill Easton. It’s so ripe and luxurious that it almost and pineapple that work alongside a spicy hint of abv: 13.8% Price: $32 tastes sweet. Aged cheese should make a great pair- lemongrass. —V.B. ing. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Rombauer 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 86 ley). The winery’s first wine under screw Round Pond 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruther- cap, and only the third vintage of this variety, this Donkey & Goat 2015 Stone Crusher Roussanne 88 ford). Pear and vanilla ride a wave capped has a steely nose and a thick floral layering of sweet 91 (El Dorado). This is technically a white wine by ripe tropical flourish in this thick and richly peach and vanilla, offering a richness on the midpal- but with eyes closed it could be taken for a big layered white from the heart of the appellation. ate that persists through the finish. —V.B. red. The color is orange, the aromas are earthy and Stainless-steel fermented, it exudes succulence and abv: 14.2% Price: $24 extremely citric, while the flavors are laser focused a strong taste of canned peach. —V.B. on orange and lemon zest. Acidity and tannins coat abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Shenandoah Vineyards 2016 Sauvignon the palate and give it a mouth-puckering grip. It’s 85 Blanc (California). Light-bodied and not for the meek, but the adventurous will love it. Trentadue 2016 Bellacana Vineyard Sauvi- refreshing, this wine leads with fresh cucumber —J.G. 88 gnon Blanc (Alexander Valley). Unoaked, aromas then opens crisp grapefruit and lemon fla- abv: 12.4% Price: $32 this wine is fresh and fruity with a simplistic foun- vors that feel lively on the palate. —J.G. dation of acidity and structure that supports floral abv: 13% Price: $12 Muddy Arch 2015 David Girard Vineyard Rous- aromatics and crisp wisps of stone. —V.B. 91 sanne (El Dorado). A deep gold color and abv: 13.5% Price: $18 powerful aromas of toasted nuts and jasmine are PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO followed by a rich full texture that helps the nutty, Mason Cellars 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa peach-like flavors cling to the sides of the mouth. 87 ­Valley). Grassy and floral, with a suggestion Rabble 2016 Murmur Vineyard Pinot Gris This is a big bold white wine from a high-elevation of hay, this wine has a smooth structure and slight 90 (Santa Barbara County). Fresh and crisp appellation and nicely balanced out by acidity. —J.G. perception of sweetness, built around a core of juicy Asian-pear aromas meet with a touch of cut grass abv: 13.9% Price: $60 peach fuzz and apricot. —V.B. and green plum on the nose of this twist-top bot- abv: 13.9% Price: $19 tling. There is a great grippy texture to the sip, Muddy Arch 2015 Haug Vineyard Roussanne where stone-fruit flavors combine with green apple, 91 (Rutherford). Austere on the nose, and light Matanzas Creek 2016 Sauvignon Blanc making for a very refreshing and accessible white on the palate, this vineyard-designated expression 87 (Sonoma County). Fermented in both stain- wine. —M.K. of this Rhône variety works in its full embrace of less steel and neutral French oak, this is a lightly abv: 14.1% Price: $25 succulent pear, peach and tart citrus. Given time in bodied and balanced white with accents of grassy neutral oak, it has enough body to remain meaning- pea shoot, lemongrass and pineapple. Pithy and Cline 2016 Estate Grown Pinot Gris (Sonoma ful in the glass around dry, focused acidity. —V.B. lushly layered, it finishes in a rich fistful of wild 88 Coast). A stainless-steel wine that’s attrac- abv: 13.2% Price: $35 vanilla. —V.B. tively priced and easy to like, this is bright, juicy abv: 13.6% Price: $15 and stony, highlighted in peach and nutmeg. The Covenant 2016 Mensch Roussanne (Lodi). crisp acidity provides tension and body. Best Buy. 90 Aromas like butter, blanched almonds and Tin Barn 2016 Hi Vista Vineyard Sauvignon —V.B. honey lead to equally rich flavors and a soothing, 87 Blanc (Carneros). Fully robust, with a dis- abv: 14% Price: $13 fat texture for this indulgent wine. It has very good tinct brazenness of baked citrus, the body of this

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concentration that helps the fruit and nut nuances Cline 2016 Viognier (North Coast). A light- Cent’Anni 2014 Buoni Anni Bianco (Santa Ynez linger on the finish. Kosher. —J.G. 88 straw color and aromas like magnolia and 91 Valley). Doug Margerum takes his mastery of abv: 14.1% Price: $20 white roses lead into tastes of oranges and honey- making clean and distinctive Burgundian and Rhône suckle with a sour-orange note in the flavors. Full wines into Italian whites with this blend of 35% Orfila 2015 Roussanne (San Pasqual Valley). bodied and certainly aromatic, it tastes dry but Pinot Bianco, 34% Pinot Grigio and 31% Tocai Fri- 89 This bottling from a region northeast of San leaves a slightly sweet impression on the finish.Best ulano from three different vineyards. Lemon peel, Diego is almost austere at first, but then restrained Buy. —J.G. lime zest and crisp nectarine show on the nose aromas of candied nuts and ripe pears show on abv: 14% Price: $11 while the palate’s sparkling acidity reveals flavors the nose. The palate is also well-restrained for of white flowers, lemon cream and pear, all wrapped this often unctuous grape, especially coming from McManis 2016 Viognier (River Junction). For around a steely core. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. a warmer region, with flavors of kaffir lime, citrus 86 full review see page 14. abv: 12.5% Price: $32 pith, nectarine, melon and guava. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.1% Price: $34 J Wilkes 2015 Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). 91 This is a very accessible white wine for those Bella Grace 2016 Roussanne (Shenandoah GRÜNER VELTLINER seeking a reliable alternative that’s both bright and 88 Valley). This lean and very crisp wine has a flavorful. Aromas of coconut, poached pear, chamo- light-yellow-gold color and aromas of white flowers. Carlisle 2015 Steiner Vineyard Grüner Velt- mile and white flowers show on the broadly painted It feels dry and lean on the palate and shows green 94 liner (Sonoma Mountain). High-toned acid- nose, while the palate is clean and crisp with apple, apple flavors and lots of acidity—just the thing when ity is adorned by wet-stone mineral flavors. A pun- zippy acidity and a chalky minerality. —M.K. a light-bodied nervy wine is called for. —J.G. gent bouquet of white flower, grapefruit peel and abv: 13.9% Price: $18 abv: 12.9% Price: $25 lime are the key scents in this head-turning wine that’s deliciously crafted and light on its feet. Waxy Refugio Ranch 2016 Malvasia Bianca (Santa Muddy Arch 2015 Landa Vineyard Roussanne apricot and honeydew add a juicy succulence to the 91 Ynez Valley). This Italian grape offers 88 (Sonoma Valley). Golden in color, this is crisp finish. —V.B. extremely consistent hallmarks, and this bottling 100% varietal, given time to ferment in barrel and abv: 13.9% Price: $30 upholds them with glee, starting with the strong age in neutral oak. Potato skin color and flavor pro- orange blossom kick to the nose, enhanced by lime, vide a context around dry tart layers of quince, pear Belden Barns 2015 Estate Grown Grüner Velt- honeydew, honeysuckle and slight chamomile. Then and quiet vanilla. —V.B. 92 liner (Sonoma Mountain). Aged 18 months the sip is bone dry and extremely racy in texture, abv: 13.1% Price: $35 in equal parts neutral oak and stainless steel, this with laser-sharp flavors of lime and tangerine cream, wine is made in a bold deliciously compelling style, leading into a zippy finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Muddy Arch 2015 Roussanne (California). offering lush components of waxy lemon, pear and abv: 11.8% Price: $26 87 This medium-bodied wine is all about peach. Dry and crisp in acidity, it teases in flavors of savory, nutty flavors rather than overtly fruity ones, wildflower and white pepper.Editors’ Choice. —V.B. Anaba 2016 Snow Vineyard Picpoul and it has a smooth mouth-filling texture. It’s very abv: 13.5% Price: $28 90 (Sonoma Valley). Made entirely from broad but well balanced and easy to sip. —J.G. this rare variety and fermented and aged in stain- abv: 13.4% Price: $60 Zocker 2015 Paragon Vineyard Grüner Veltliner less steel, this is a picnic wine meant to be enjoyed 91 (Edna Valley). For full review see page 10. without hesitation. It’s a light-bodied celebration of Editors’ Choice. lemon peel and chamomile that’s light, dry and juicy. VIOGNIER abv: 13.5% Price: $20 —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $28 Sol Rouge 2015 Viognier (Lake County). 93 Cloudy in appearance, but super rich in aro- OTHER WHITE WINES Gloria Ferrer 2016 Estate Grown Pinot Blanc mas and flavors, this is a concentrated, fruity and 90 (Carneros). Refreshing and vibrant, this richly textured wine. Toasted almonds and marzi- Kale 2016 Somerston Vineyard Grenache wine is delightfully playful in peach, pear and a lin- pan meet honeydew melon, pineapple and peach 92 Blanc (Napa Valley). From a site tucked gering spectrum of citrus that gives it additional life flavors that expand with each sip and coat the pal- within the eastern hills of the appellation, this is a in the glass. Light, it’ll do well on its own or with ate. But it’s not unctuous, due to great underlying 100% varietal expression, dark hay in color, spar- creamy cheeses or oysters from the sea. —V.B. acidity that keeps it lively. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. kling in minerality and sporting a gravelly edge. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.4% Price: $36 Stainless steel and one neutral French oak barrel helped ferment and age. Flinty, it shines in lime, Bella Luna 2016 Bella Bianca Vista Verde Pech Merle 2016 Salem Vineyard Viognier peach and pear. —V.B. 88 Vineyard (San Benito County). This is an 90 (Dry Creek Valley). Abundantly floral, this abv: 13.1% Price: $40 interesting and very unique bottling of 50% Tocai is a 100% varietal wine. Juicy acidity supports a Friuliano and 50% Arneis, showing Asian pear, gar- medium-bodied lushness of honeyed pear and spicy Paix Sur Terre 2016 Kiler Grove Vineyard Ugni denia, honeysuckle and a bit of citrus pith on the nutmeg complemented by oak. —V.B. 92 Blanc (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). nose. The palate is rather oily, but that texture is cut abv: 14.2% Price: $33 One of the Central Coast’s only bottlings of this grape, by flavors of Meyer lemon peel. —M.K. which is also known as , this is a great abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Cedar View Winery 2015 Reserve Viognier option for lovers of crisp and mineral-laden whites. 89 (California). This medium to full-bodied Green plum, lemongrass and chalk show on the nose, Zocker 2014 Paragon Vineyard Riesling wine has vanilla and butterscotch aromas and very which is reminiscent of a dewy spring morning, while 88 (Edna Valley). Fresh cut lemons, grapefruit ripe unctuous fruit flavors. It feels soft in texture the tightly wound palate combines kaffir lime, green pith and rounder peach tones meet with the telltale and very mouthfilling. This is full-bodied and tastes fruit, salt and just a shred of jalapeño. —M.K. petrol and wet-cement aromas on this extremely warm and creamy on the finish. —J.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $27 fresh and vibrant bottling from the Niven family. abv: 13.9% Price: $23 Ripe stone-fruit and orange flavors show up at the

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 start of the sip, but the petrol character cuts through Benziger 2016 Rosé (Sonoma County). Dark Fort Ross 2012 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir the entire palate. Will age quite well. —M.K. 87 orange and red in color, this slightly sweet 94 (Fort Ross-Seaview). Jammy blue fruit and abv: 14.1% Price: $20 wine is simple in its offerings of ripe peach and cherries immerse themselves within a context of strawberry flavor. It’s a nice choice for picnics and inviting and densely packed earth in this coastal, Mirassou 2015 Moscato (California). A porch gatherings. —V.B. estate-grown wine. Spicy acidity and pronounced 86 spritzy texture livens up this sugary light- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 wood add additional weight and complexity as the bodied wine that smells like honeydew melons and texture takes on velvety lushness that’s fully bal- tastes like a sweet citrus sorbet. —J.G. Refugio Ranch 2016 Rosé (Santa Ynez Valley). anced and considerate. —V.B. abv: 7.5% Price: $12 87 More of an orange shade of pink, this rosé abv: 13.8% Price: $52 of Syrah offers red plum, grapefruit pith and chalky minerality on the nose. The palate shows broad red- Hirsch 2014 East Ridge Pinot Noir (Sonoma ROSÉS apple and tangerine-skin flavors, although the tex- 94 Coast). This elegant wine from a fabled ture is lacking a bit of grip and acidic brightness. vineyard has a powerful and concentrated fruit Kitá 2016 Camp 4 Vineyard Rosé of Grenache —M.K. essence that practically jumps out of the glass, 91 (Santa Ynez Valley). The delicate yet bril- abv: 13% Price: $28 smelling like rhubarb, sour cherry and cranberry, liant pink color of this rosé is stunning (Could it then tasting vivid, lively, dry and just tart enough, be protected by the darker glass, a rare packaging Cinnabar 2016 Rosé (California). Tasting before letting loose with all the berry and cherry fla- choice for the style?) and the wine inside matches 86 very ripe and a touch sweet, this deep pink vors. Exciting to taste now, but best to drink after up, starting with a brisk nose of red apple, white wine smells like melons, tastes like cherry jam and 2020. Cellar Selection. —J.G. cherry, strawberry and lime. There’s red plum and feels smooth and soft on the palate. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $85 more strawberry to the sip. With a grippy texture abv: 14.7% Price: $24 and steadily rising acidity, this is one of the better Orfila 2014 Sequestered Pinot Noir (Santa pinks of the vintage. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Ponte 2016 Pas Doux Rosé (Temecula). A 94 Maria Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 86 pleasing shade of pale pink, this is a very abv: 14.4% Price: $40 austere bottling, with just faint touches of raspberry Belharra 2016 Las Madres Vineyards Rosé of and tangerine on the nose. There is more light-red Pellegrini 2014 Hurst Vineyard Pinot Noir 90 Syrah (Carneros). Aromatic like an Orange fruit and a hint of bubblegum on the palate, which 94 (Russian River Valley). This wine impresses Julius, this wine is velvety and crisp, with flavors of offers decent tannic tension. —M.K. and astounds with its earthy sage, black tea, forest tart red cherry, peach and watermelon. Light bod- abv: 12.5% Price: $28 floor and clove, nicely contrasting savory and spicy ied with ample weight, it finishes with a richness of with depths of black-cherry fruit. Medium bodied vanilla swizzle. —V.B. Trentadue 2016 Estate Rosato di Sangio- and complex in its weight and breadth, it offers abv: 13.5% Price: $23 86 vese (Alexander Valley). Dark reddish-pink uplifting acidity as a foundation to the expressive in color, this wine exudes the essence of a strawberry flavors. —V.B. Luna 2016 Minuet Sangiovese Rosé (Napa patch both in flavor and aroma, adding to the fruiti- abv: 14.4% Price: $50 90 Valley). Grapefruit peel and tart lemon ness with complementary flavors of peach. Expansive combine for a memorably savory beginning to this and duly ripe, it incorporates richer layers of vanilla Saintsbury 2015 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir crisp wine. This one integrates its acidity with a that add a touch of sweetness to the finish. —V.B. 94 (Sonoma Coast). Spicy, seductive and medium weight into a clean, dry and lengthy pack- abv: 14.1% Price: $20 stemmy, this wine from the coveted vineyard site is age of flavor and bite. —V.B. a celebration of baked rhubarb and cranberry. Vel- abv: 14.3% Price: $32 vety on the palate and boldly ripe and rich, it offers PINOT NOIR highlights of spicy black tea and cardamom that Presqu’ile 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Santa complements and complicates the fruit. —V.B. 90 Maria Valley). Zippy upon opening and even Cattleya 2015 Cuvée Number One Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $62 a day later, this tight, bright and lightly pink-orange 95 (Russian River Valley). For full review see rosé shows a tangerine rind influence on the nose page 3. Cellar Selection. Saintsbury 2015 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir along with red apple, pluot and a steely minerality. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 94 (Carneros). Juicy and stemmy, this is a big, The vibrant sip shows flavors of tangy orange and bold wine, explosive in highlights of huckleberry, Meyer lemon peel, and is bursting with a simmering Williams Selyem 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma dark cherry and forest floor. With firm tannins acidity. —M.K. 95 Coast). For full review see page 4. for days, it offers enviable length and spice along abv: 13.6% Price: $22 abv: 14.1% Price: $55 a smooth grippy texture and forceful complexity. —V.B. Via Giusti 2016 Estate Quattro Mani Rosé Williams Selyem 2015 Olivet Lane Vineyard abv: 14% Price: $62 90 of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dark- 95 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full pink-orange in color, this wine is muted in floral review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. Sea Slopes 2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). tones of beauty and simplicity. Crisp, clean and sim- abv: 13.9% Price: $78 94 This wine offers astounding quality for the ple layers of creamy vanilla are mixed with Meyer price, a juicy expression of fruit and spice with a lemon and white peach. Refreshing and light on its Cobb 2014 Emmaline Ann Vineyard Pinot depth of firm resolved tannin, lively acidity and feet, it’s memorable in its stony minerality and its 94 Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a three-acre layers of black cherry and cola. Approachable and full embrace of citrus intrigue. —V.B. spot known to get a hearty dose of fog, this wine delicious, it hits the mark on every level being light abv: 12.5% Price: $32 speaks to cool-climate character, unveiling crisp flo- bodied and refreshingly balanced while complex. ral layers of dried sage and white pepper from the Editors’ Choice. —V.B. Tinto Rey 2016 Rosé (Dunnigan Hills). For get-go. Those aspects are joined by rose, lavender abv: 13.5% Price: $34 89 full review see page 13. Editors’ Choice. and cranberry-rhubarb on the palate, finishing with abv: 14.2% Price: $16 subtle offerings of mushroom and forest floor. —V.B. Spell 2015 Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir (York­ abv: 12.8% Price: $75 94 ville Highlands). An abundance of richness

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and depth sets this high-elevation wine apart from Hirsch 2014 Block 8 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Waits-Mast 2014 Wentzel Vineyard Pinot the crowd. It has a good deep color, harmonious oak 93 Coast). Maybe the friendliest Hirsch bot- 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see and spiced fruit aromas, and just-ripe flavors like tling, this wine has wonderful complexity, medium page 6. red and black cherries that are concentrated and lay- body and a broad supple texture that make it a abv: 13.4% Price: $47 ered. It finds a near-perfect balance between rich- pleasure to taste. It has spicy lightly earthy aromas, ness and structure, and is frankly delicious to drink. plenty of raspberry, red cherry and rhubarb for fruit Williams Selyem 2015 Westside Road Neigh- Editors’ Choice. —J.G. flavors, and a good sense of layering on the palate, 93 bors Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For abv: 14.4% Price: $50 followed by a long finish. —J.G. full review see page 6. abv: 13.5% Price: $85 abv: 13.9% Price: $72 Williams Selyem 2015 Pinot Noir (Russian 94 River Valley). For full review see page 5. Saintsbury 2015 Sundawg Ridge Vineyard Flowers 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For abv: 14.1% Price: $55 93 Pinot Noir (Green Valley). Lush and concen- 92 full review see page 7. trated in texture, this vineyard-designate is bright abv: 13.6% Price: $55 Williams Selyem 2015 Terra De Promissio and tart with a bite of crunchy tannin and a bouquet 94 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full of rose and lavender lurking on the nose. Light bod- Hirsch 2014 Raschen Ridge Pinot Noir review see page 5. ied and ultimately balanced, it brightens on the pal- 92 (Sonoma Coast). Intriguing layers of light abv: 13.3% Price: $58 ate with a whirl of blood orange that complements fruits like persimmon, raspberry and spice create a the cranberry, pomegranate and cherry cola. —V.B. fine balance with the light body, the mild tannins Bernardus 2015 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $62 and the elegant texture of this idiosyncratic coastal 93 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Broad aromas of wine. Precise and somewhat reserved, the wine black cherry and black-tea spice make for a dark Sanford 2014 La Rinconada Vineyard Estate gives a sense of keeping its power and depth hid- and full nose, which is enhanced by strong soil com- 93 Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full den until it’s more mature. Best after 2020. Cellar ponents of turned loam and gravel. Dark boysen- review see page 6. Cellar Selection. Selection. —J.G. berry and tart plum skins show on the palate along abv: 14.5% Price: $70 abv: 12.6% Price: $85 with more tea spice, making for a very full sipping experience. —M.K. Sante Arcangeli 2015 Split Rail Vineyard Hirsch 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir (Sonoma abv: 14.2% Price: $65 93 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). For full 92 Coast). A rather light-garnet color doesn’t review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. keep this wine from displaying plenty of flavor con- Cobb 2014 Coastlands Vineyard 1906 Block abv: 13.5% Price: $45 centration, a smooth texture and nice layers of com- 93 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). plexity. Red cherry and sour cherry dominate the This lightly bodied, elegant wine is subtle and Tongue Dancer 2015 Pinot de Ville Putnam palate while the mouthfeel is nicely dry and lightly crisp—a study in white pepper and leather that’s 93 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Wine- tannic. Best after 2020. —J.G. both complex and tightly layered. Cool climate to its maker James MacPhail continues to refine his abv: 13.1% Price: $85 core, it shows floral aromas and flavors of rose petal solo project with this Annapolis-sourced effort, and lavender as hints of rhubarb and tart cherry a smooth layered expression of baked strawberry La Honda Winery 2015 Sequence Pinot Noir make their way onto the quiet palate. —V.B. and rose petal herbaceousness. Lingering fruitiness 92 (Santa Cruz Mountains). There are a lot of abv: 12.5% Price: $80 makes it lovely to enjoy, as the oak remains a back- intriguing and unique aromas on the nose of this ground player in full support of the succulence and bottling, from candied pomegranate and wild blue- Fort Ross 2013 Fort Ross Vineyard Stage- ripe power. Still young, it should continue to open berry to olive, rosewater, cinnamon and carnation. 93 coach Road Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). further over time. —V.B. Those deep fruits and exotic spices show on the sip A brooding texture and fully layered concentration abv: 14.5% Price: $65 as well, where a tense acidity leads into a tart cherry of intense flavor spark the palate and mind in this finish. —M.K. estate wine, which is showy in cola, bark, black Waits-Mast 2014 Nash Mill Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.7% Price: $28 cherry and black tea. Medium bodied and well- 93 Noir (Anderson Valley). Warm spicy winter- made, it finds balance between its coastal influence, time scents like cinnamon, clove and nutmeg meet Mira 2013 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir (Carne- its crisp acidity and the burlier aspects of fruit and baked fruit flavors and a broad soothing texture in 92 ros). Full bodied and robust, this wine is weight. —V.B. this full-bodied wine. The color has an amber tint at abundant in earthy mint, strawberry and rhubarb,. abv: 14.1% Price: $80 the rim, the texture is absolutely mouth-filling but It is also fully infatuated with its cool-climate aro- gentle, and the finish lingers nicely. The husband- matics of sea breeze and morning fog. Cherry rules Fulcrum 2015 Fulcrum Anderson Valley Pinto wife winemaking duo let native yeast ferment the the day on the palate, taking on a richness across 93 Noir Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Abun- wine, and then aged it in 33% new French barrels the voluptuous finish. —V.B. dantly oaky, this is a friendly, mouth-filling and from Remond. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 broadly textured wine that comes off as soft and abv: 14.5% Price: $40 soothing. Sweet-seeming spicy oak and tobacco On Point 2015 On Point Cristinna’s Cuvée aromas lead to generous flavors of ripe cherry and Waits-Mast 2014 Oppenlander Vineyard Pinot 92 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This fascinat- raspberry rounded out by nutmeg, cinnamon and 93 Noir (Mendocino County). Coming from a ing medium-bodied wine has a wild streak that first vanilla. Concentration and layering raise it way singular vineyard along the Mendocino coast, this brings rhubarb and forest-floor aromas, then deep above average. —J.G. wine has smoky savory flavors that complement the dark flavor nuances like mushroom, black cherry abv: 14.1% Price: $59 just-ripe fruit flavors and give a truly maverick but and more tangy rhubarb. It has good acidity and easy-to-enjoy personality. It is medium bodied, vel- fine-grained tannins to support all that complexity. Gary Farrell 2014 McDonald Mountain Vine- vet textured, and has good structure, fine-grained It offers all the complexity one looks for in a Pinot. 93 yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For tannins and enough concentration for a lingering —J.G. full review see page 5. finish.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $38 abv: 14% Price: $65 abv: 13.4% Price: $45

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Orfila 2014 Element 119 Pinot Noir (Arroyo juice flavors, finishing with strong acidity. This will floor contribute brightness and complexity that pair 92 Grande Valley). For full review see page 7. last for years, but needs at least another year to well with the fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $40 fully integrate. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.1% Price: $65 Saintsbury 2015 Lee Vineyard Pinot Noir Dutton-Goldfield 2015 Dutton Ranch Pinot 92 (Carneros). Integrated in oak and tannin, Diora 2015 Le Petite Grace Pinot Noir (Mon- 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine hails this medium-bodied moderately ripe wine offers big 91 terey). This is a powerful Pinot Noir that from a variety of Dutton family vineyards, many flavors of cherry, strawberry and orange and melds jumps toward the nose with black raspberry and of them popular vineyard designates of their own. them together well into a cohesive whole. Juicy and other dark fruits as well as strong cedar and caramel Together they show a deftness of blending, offering delicious, it succeeds in achieving a level of balance aromas. Thick raspberry and rounded cherry flavors bright acidity within a lighthearted context of lico- and complexity that doesn’t shy away from an overall show on the sip, which enjoys strong and compel- rice and wild strawberry. The juicy core is further likability. —V.B. ling spice notes of clove, star anise and even some embellished in huckleberry and blueberry, finishing abv: 14% Price: $62 licorice. Pair with steak. —M.K. in a mild hit of nutmeg. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $44 Spell 2015 Nichole’s Blend Pinot Noir 92 (Sonoma County). This is made from a Hahn 2015 SLH Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- Fog Crest 2013 Laguna West Pinot Noir (Rus- selection of diverse vineyard sites, the combination 91 lands). For full review see page 9. 90 sian River Valley). Pungent earth is met by winning in its compact concentration of wild straw- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 dark handfuls of baking spice, dried cherry and berry and smoky oak. Medium bodied, its thick chocolate in this rich, velvety and full-bodied wine tannin layering becomes velvety on the palate and Hirsch 2014 San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir that’s smooth and rounded on the palate. —V.B. expansive in the dark brambly richness that adds 91 (Sonoma Coast). A toasty wood-smoke abv: 14.6% Price: $39 hits of spice as it goes. —V.B. aroma meets firm, vivid and rather tart fruit flavors abv: 14.4% Price: $41 in this medium-bodied, elegant and cerebral wine. Peter Paul Wines 2015 Live Free or Die Pinot It has firm structure and good balance, as fine- 90 Noir (Russian River Valley). This affordable Talisman 2014 Gunsalus Vineyard Pinot grained tannins and tangy acidity support the red- varietal wine is rich in dried cherry, cranberry and 92 Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine is cherry and raspberry flavors. —J.G. orange zest, tightly wound in tannin and supportive explosively juicy in black cherry and pomegranate, abv: 12.7% Price: $60 oak. Medium bodied, it stays crisp and bright on the finding a way to offer fruity tartness alongside an palate in sparkling persistent acidity. This is a nice intensity of savory complexity. Big boned and con- Hirsch 2014 West Ridge Pinot Noir (Sonoma choice for the dinner table. —V.B. centrated, the layers of flavor are complemented by 91 Coast). Lean and dry on the palate, this abv: 14.2% Price: $25 a luxuriously velvety texture. —V.B. medium-bodied wine has a subtle concentration abv: 14.8% Price: $54 of red-fruit flavors and fine layers of mineral and Spell 2015 Alder Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir spice that unfold on the palate. Grown on a pioneer- 90 (Mendocino County). This wine comes from Waits-Mast 2014 Deer Meadows Vineyard ing property along the Sonoma Cost, it will be best hillside vineyards in the far northern reaches of Cal- 92 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). The color after 2020. —J.G. ifornia’s grape growing counties. It has an unusu- is on the light side and the appearance is slightly abv: 12.7% Price: $85 ally dark color for Pinot. The ripe and fruity aromas cloudy but that takes nothing away from the are accented by oaky spices and flavors that bring interesting flavors of plum, black tea and mint Saintsbury 2015 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Earthy out black-cherry and clove notes. It’s full bodied, leaves that come with a mild texture, a light body, 91 in sage and black tea, this wine is lightly lay- mouth-filling and flavorful. —J.G. some good acidity and a sense of reserve in this ered and seamless in texture, with an underlying abv: 14.3% Price: $50 ­native-yeast-fermented wine from a consistently minty flavor. Cardamom and cola provide a spici- excellent winemaking couple. —J.G. ness that persists along a road of great length and Tessier Winery 2015 Morelli Lane Vineyard abv: NA Price: $58 breadth. —V.B. 90 Pinot Noir (Green Valley). Crunchy red fruit abv: 14% Price: $36 is front and center in this vineyard-designate, well Williams Selyem 2015 Pinot Noir (Sonoma capturing the tone of the appellation. Raspberry, 92 County). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Sanford 2014 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. black tea and brooding tannins surround a light- Choice. 91 Rita Hills). For full review see page 10. bodied frame further highlighted with violet and abv: 13.8% Price: $39 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 cardamom. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $45 Anaba 2014 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir Waits-Mast 2014 Mariah Vineyard Pinot Noir 91 (Santa Lucia Highlands). The slightest bit 91 (Mendocino Ridge). This medium-bodied Via Giusti 2015 Estate Pinot Noir (Rus- funky on the nose, this bottling shows dried-cherry, wine has a relatively light-garnet color and a touch 90 sian River Valley). This wine takes a light rusty-cranberry, gravel and dried-herb aromas. The of cloudiness that is accompanied by complex and approach to ripeness and oak, letting the freshness barnyard character also shows a tad on the sip, attractive aromas blending cinnamon, clove, rhu- of the fruit speak with abandon. Bristling in acidity, where leathery flavors of tart cherries, dried pome- barb and light wood smoke. These layered nuances it offers a layering of complementary dark cherry, granate and thyme are reminiscent of properly aged flow into the flavors and fill the mouth with black- huckleberry, pomegranate and cola, before a thick red Burgundies. —M.K. cherry and sour-cherry notes that are ripe but not concentration of power peaks on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $52 too ripe, so the wine has fine balance. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 abv: 13.4% Price: $42 Bernardus 2015 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir Mercy 2014 Riverbed Pinot Noir (Arroyo 91 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Snappy black rasp- Delgado 2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). 89 Seco). Concentrated lavender and incense berry and fresh plum combine for an almost effer- 90 Caramel toasted oak contributes a concen- aromas make for a woody perfume on the nose of this vescent experience on the nose, which also benefits trated richness to this full-bodied expression of the appellation blend, giving lots of character to the core from smoked beef and carnation aromas. The palate coast—a dark brooding offering of baked cherry and of cherry syrup. The palate shows the same levels is also very energetic with black-plum and orange- cola spice. Underlying acidity and specks of forest of intense incense and purple flowers, which nearly

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overpowers the cranberry and pomegranate fruits. the forthright fruity aspect of the varietal. A quite aroma give way to lush berry and cherry flavors that —M.K. deep color and spicy earthy cola aromas are followed spread across the palate and cling to the sides of the abv: 14.3% Price: $32 by nicely ripe plum and black cherry on the palate, mouth. This wine is lightly oaky and has an attrac- where the full body gives a mouth-filling sensation tive richness that lasts on the finish. —J.G. Talisman 2014 Jamison Valley Vineyard and the firm tannins add some welcomed grip. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 89 Destein Estate Pinot Noir (Bennett Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Earthy sage and black licorice invite one into this Irony 2014 Small Lot Reserve Pinot Noir dark brooding expression of the grape, defined in Belle Ambiance 2015 Pinot Noir (California). 85 (Monterey). Muted on the nose, this bot- exotic blackberry, black cherry and smoke. Medium 87 This is a good bargain for a varietal that’s tling eventually shows a root-beer-float aroma with bodied and softly smooth, it impresses in its brush very difficult to make inexpensively. Whiffs of wood touches of thyme and dill. Tart red-fruit flavors with the dark side. —V.B. smoke meet ripe concentrated black-cherry flavors blend with vanilla on the thin palate. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $55 in this full-bodied smooth-textured wine. It has abv: 13.5% Price: $16 moderate fine-grained tannins for grip and a linger- Carol Shelton 2014 Larson Vineyard Pinot ing spice and smoke finish.Best Buy. —J.G. Bread & Butter 2015 Pinot Noir (California). 88 Noir (Carneros). This wine opens in a curi- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 84 Spicy new-oak flavors dominate the modest ous mix of cucumber and mint, herbal and inviting fruit notes in this over-worked wine, knocking it off in its unexpected charms. Tart cherry, raspberry and HandCraft 2015 Artisan Collection Pinot Noir balance. —J.G. black tea contribute further flavor atop a light tex- 87 (California). This is a generous, richly fruity abv: 13.5% Price: $15 ture of still-developing concentration and ripe fruit. and well-oaked wine that blends almost-jammy —V.B. cherry and blackberry flavors with sweet-seeming abv: 13.8% Price: $30 accents like vanilla and cinnamon. It’s relatively soft CABERNET SAUVIGNON in texture and easy to sip. Best Buy. —J.G. Castle Rock 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir (Rus- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Alta 2013 Oso Malo Cabernet Sauvignon 88 sian River Valley). For full review see page 92 (Napa Valley). From the wilds of Atlas Peak, 13. Solitary Cellars 2014 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia this lovely wine is dense and concentrated in moun- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 87 Highlands). Black plum, prune and vanilla tain fruit and lengthy tannin—the oak and weight show on the slightly metallic nose of this bottling. well-integrated and complex. Pie crust, vanilla and J Wilkes 2014 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There is decent richness to the sip, with gingerbread clove provide a sultry luxury and invitation. —V.B. 88 Tart pomegranate and cranberry meet with spice and black-cherry flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $75 strong sagebrush and mace on the nose of this fairly abv: 14.7% Price: $36 priced bottling. The palate shows nutmeg, pine nee- Opolo 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso dle and juniper seasonings, which give depth to the J. Wilkes 2015 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria 92 Robles). For full review see page 7. bright and crisp cranberry-orange rind backbone. 86 ­Valley). Smashed pomegranate and rasp- abv: 14.9% Price: $32 Pencil shavings add to the complexity. —M.K. berry aromas meet with underlying mocha, herbs abv: 14.5% Price: $30 and plum skins on this bottling. The palate’s sour- Amici 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). plum flavor slides into turned loam and dried herb, 91 Juicy and fresh red fruit meets an herbal Ken Brown 2014 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara which makes the wine complex but not quite deli- woody component in this wine—a nod to its inclu- 88 County). Somewhat and pleasingly feral on cious. A bit more time may smooth it out. —M.K. sion of 12% Cabernet Franc. Firm integrated tan- the nose, this county-wide blend shows wild cherry, abv: 14.3% Price: $30 nins support the full-bodied frame of approachable composting rose petals, roast game and campfire on richness and plush texture, working toward a seam- the nose. Black-plum skins come to the fore on the Z. Alexander Brown 2015 Uncaged Pinot Noir less whole. —V.B. sip, which is quite tangy and a bit sour, lifted by dried 86 (Monterey County-Napa County-Sonoma abv: 14.5% Price: $50 thyme, rich mulberry and earthy chaparral scrub. County). Jammy aromas and flavors that are as rich —M.K. as maple syrup give a sweet accent to this full-bod- Monte De Oro 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.1% Price: $35 ied and mouth-filling wine. It has a touch of tannin 91 gnon (Temecula Valley). Dried strawberry and for grip and finishes on the sweet side. —J.G. prune juice meet with black spice, dust and roasted Ken Brown 2014 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). abv: 14.5% Price: $20 meats on the nose of this six-year-old bottling. The 88 Tart cherry meets with woody charred- palate shows decent depth, from mocha and coffee to cedar spice, dried earth and crushed rocks on the Bowman Cellars 2015 Pinot Noir (Russian tobacco, cedar and caramel, all decorating the core nose of this appellation blend. The lightly bodied 85 River Valley). This wine is smooth and flavors of black-cherry pie and bacon fat. —M.K. sip offers flavors that are quite light, with evenly densely packed in earth and blackberry, the over- abv: 14.8% Price: $80 dispersed cherry and gravel. —M.K. all tone voluptuously concentrated and full bodied, abv: 14.4% Price: $45 with a tenacious embrace of ripeness. —V.B. Newton 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yount- abv: 14.8% Price: $34 91 ville). It’s a new day for this producer, which Kendall-Jackson 2015 Vintner’s Reserve is stepping slightly off the gas to make more nuanced 88 Pinot Noir (California). This medium-bod- Firestone 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir (Sta. balanced wines. This is no exception: a restrained ied wine has an abundance of spices in its aromas 85 Rita Hills). Sweet-leaning aromas of black offering of earthy mushroom, soy, cedar, leather and and flavors, along with a smooth texture and good cherry, cola and anise show on the nose of this juicy red fruit that disentangles itself from oak and balance between acidity and ripeness. The fruit fla- appellation blend. The flavors are much more sub- tannin to stay fresh in the glass. Enjoy best from vors are plummy and straightforward and the easy tle, with touches of cherry, cranberry and gravel. 2024 through 2034. Cellar Selection. —V.B. drinkability is undeniable. —J.G. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $190 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.2% Price: $35 Sandler 2015 Lazare Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- McFadden 2015 Blue Quail Pinot Noir (Pot- Gnarly Head 2015 Pinot Noir (California). A 91 gnon (Oak Knoll District). This juicy ready-to- 88 ter Valley). It’s a good solid wine that shows 85 bit of charred wood and black pepper in the drink wine is a counterpunch to those who believe

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Napa Cabernets are unapproachable in their early Merlot add to the whole of this wine, which is thick intertwining the rich ripe fruit into a harmonious years. Black plum, blueberry juice and melted lico- and extracted in black fruit and firm tannins. With whole that pleases the palate. —V.B. rice aromas start the experience, then the palate a floral undercurrent and spicy rocky tones, it com- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 picks up a peppery spice that gives depth to the bines blackberry and currant with a rich addition of black-currant and vanilla ripeness. The tannins are caramel. —V.B. Scaredy Cat Ranch 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon soft, if not weak, and the acidity is balanced. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 88 (Ramona Valley). Boosted with 7% Petit abv: 14.3% Price: $55 Verdot and 2% Malbec, this bottling from a little Beringer 2014 Knights Valley Reserve Caber- known appellation shows lavish and rich aromas of Levendi 2014 Stagecoach Vineyard Caber- 88 net Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Cedar, oak black currant, violet, leather and dried beef. Dried 90 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Reduced on and woody tannin make for a classic and composed blueberry and charred beef show on the sip, where the nose, this vineyard-designate is densely thick entry to this wine, which is otherwise boldly ripe upright tannins carry the palate into a chocolate in chocolate dust and mountain sage. Blackberry and full bodied. Big layers of blackberry and choco- finish. —M.K. jam accents hugely stylized tannin that grips tena- late confront the palate with force, accented in cof- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 ciously on the layered palate. —V.B. fee, clove and cinnamon. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $80 abv: 15% Price: $70 Waterloo 2014 The Harvest of Beulah Land 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). From MC4 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Eli Madyson 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon the Frankel Vineyard in the Geneseo District comes 90 This is a small-production wine from the 88 (South Coast). Black pepper, black-currant this bottling, which shows punchy boysenberry and producer’s one-acre organically farmed Martin & sauce, soy, black olive and dried meat show on energetic blackberry fruit on the nose alongside Croshaw Vineyard, and it impresses from the get- the nose of this bottling from northern San Diego gravel, graphite, charcoal and leather. Anise and dill go. Thick and dense, it finds its way to a balanced County. The fruit leaps off the palate, with mulberry are prominent on the sip, where black-fruit flavors approach, reveling in red currant, tobacco and wood and wild berries, plus there’s an intriguing green- are cut by char with a blueberry finish. —M.K. tannin dipped in clove. —V.B. olive kick in the background. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $34 abv: 14.3% Price: $68 abv: 14% Price: $50 Buehler 2014 Papa’s Knoll Estate Cabernet Miner 2014 Emily’s Cabernet Sauvignon Eli Madyson 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in an under- 90 (Napa Valley). An homage to the winery’s 88 (South Coast). Black-cherry syrup, nutmeg stated classic style, this wine has a woody persistence cofounder, this blends the main variety with 19% and leathery aromas show on the nose of this wax- of dried herb and mountain sage amid a grip of dusty Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot, with the fruit top bottling from the Fallbrook area north of San tannin. Pencil shavings and red currant provide a yin sourced from an estate vineyard as well as the Diego. It’s a rich style, as are many from this region, and yang of structure and subtle character. —V.B. mountainous Stagecoach. Soft in firm supportive with extremely sticky tannins carrying heavy spice abv: 14.1% Price: $50 tannin, the flavors are ripe and heady in blackberry on the palate, including dried ginger and cardamom. and plum with accents of cedar and coffee. —V.B. —M.K. Wine Spots 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.8% Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $50 87 Valley). This is a thick extracted wine that’s simple in execution. It’s a full-bodied showcase of Vinum 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Highway 12 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon blackberry, black cherry, leather and cedar. —V.B. 90 ley). This wine packs a punch and overdeliv- 88 (Sonoma County). Juicy and mouth coat- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 ers quality for the price. This is a crowd-pleaser in ing in ripe fruit, this wine offers black cherry, dusty its lush, soft and fruity combination of grilled meat, tannins and graphite. Softly textured and surely Joseph Carr 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa bacon and smoky tannin. Those big bold elements are approachable, it ends in a bright note of acidity. 86 Valley). Simple, with a robust midpalate, complemented by plenty of black-cherry jam. —V.B. —V.B. this likable approachable wine captures bold flavors abv: 14.9% Price: $43 abv: 13.9% Price: $19 of juicy blueberry and black cherry within a frame- work of toasted oak and broad tannins. The finish is EOS 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Levendi 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell lengthy and full of spice. —V.B. 89 (Paso Robles). Deeply colored, this bottling 88 Mountain). Thick and heavy, this is a sizable abv: 14.5% Price: $27 shows ripe blackberry pie with caramel, crushed wine from a mountain appellation that brings in tar, graphite and a touch of mint on the nose. The tan- tobacco and meat. Moderate acidity gives it a succu- Twisted Paso 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon nins are soft but provide just enough structure to lent backbeat of blackberry and black cherry along- 86 (Paso Robles). This deeply colored wine deliver lavish flavors of black cherry, beef char and side mountain sage and dried dusty herb. —V.B. shows plum, blueberry and black currant on the cedar. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $95 nose, with turned earth and pencil shavings pro- abv: 14.8% Price: $40 viding depth. It’s a bit thin on the sip, despite the Mounts 2014 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvi- chalky, somewhat clunky tannins, and the acidity Falkner 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Temecula 88 gnon (Dry Creek Valley). This is a seductive is quite bright, delivering flavors of dark fruit and 89 Valley). There is a great deal of restraint wine, concentrated and full bodied and entirely big. herbs. —M.K. exercised in this bottling from this warmer SoCal Black cherry, chocolate and blackberry jam ride the abv: 14.4% Price: $20 region, with tightly wound blackberry, black cur- palate with authority, as soft tannins wrap around rant and turned loam on the nose. The flavors are the bold flavor. —V.B. J. Wilkes 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso also still wrapped up firmly, with more black cur- abv: 15.8% Price: $45 85 Robles Highlands District). Black cherry, rant, asphalt and gravel hidden behind sticky tan- tart plum skin and hints of vanilla, caramel and dill nins. This wine is still young and should age well. Rodney Strong 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon show on the nose of this bottling from southeast- —M.K. 88 (Knights Valley). With 7% Malbec, this ern Paso Robles. The palate is a tad thin, with black abv: 14.1% Price: $60 hearty red is tightly wound in youthful tannins plum, oregano and nettle flavors. —M.K. and a smoky cloud of complex flavor. Leathery and abv: 15% Price: $30 Arrowood 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon earthy, it traffics in plum, blackberry and chocolate, 88 (Knights Valley). Equal parts Malbec and

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Castle Rock 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso voluptuous wine. Big lush tannins are met by a 84 Robles). Tart cherry and cranberry meet MERLOT smoky backdrop of robust oak and a spicy hit of with woody cedar aromas, campfire and nettle on clove on the finish. —V.B. the nose of this widely available bottling. Cherry Duckhorn 2014 Merlot (Atlas Peak). Burly abv: 14.5% Price: $54 and strawberry flavors get hit with bittersweet 93 and brawny in tar and leather, this muscular chocolate and pine-cedar touches on the sip. —M.K. wine is showy and yet totally delicious. It’s worth- Napa Cellars 2014 Merlot (Napa Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $13 while and hard to resist in its full embrace of smoky 88 Woody in cedar and toasted oak, this mild- oak, black-cherry liqueur and blackberry jam. Soft mannered red is juicy in red currant and plum, and succulent, it finishes as robust as it started—a offering a lush and plush body and texture. Tannins CABERNET FRANC good poster child for the oft-maligned variety. —V.B. coat the back of the palate as notes of clove and abv: 14.9% Price: $75 mocha spark the finish. —V.B. Chappellet 2013 Cabernet Franc (Napa Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $24 94 ley). This is an impressively well-crafted, G & L Lurton 2014 Merlot (Chalk Hill). From and beautiful wine, blended with 12% Caber- 93 the producer’s organically farmed estate, Oberon 2015 Merlot (Napa Valley). Spicy, net Sauvignon and 10% Malbec, the main variety this light elegant red is Old World in approach and 88 soft and robust in mouthfeel and texture, mountain-grown on Pritchard Hill. It shines in big, execution, offering delicate aromas of leather pouch this elegant varietal wine offers firmly defined- fla bold and powerfully built black fruit and leather. and black pepper. Wraparound tannins provide vors of cedar, tobacco and plum. Lengthy and easy to Dusty, firm tannins and a taste of graphite, coffee structure within a graceful framework of plum and enjoy, it’ll do well at the table with a range of fare. and tar are also highly evident. The finish is tart cedar, as the oak integrates to preserve a freshness —V.B. and seasoned in white pepper. Best enjoyed 2023 of acidity and lively complexity. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $23 through 2033. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $34 abv: 14.9% Price: $80 Decoy 2015 Merlot (Sonoma County). Tightly Duckhorn 2013 Stout Vineyard Merlot (Napa 87 wound in youthful tannins, this midtier red Mira 2013 Hyde Vineyard Cabernet Franc 91 Valley). Tart acidity provides freshness and is structured and robust, chalky in tannin and toasty 94 (Napa Valley). This gorgeous wine is heady succulence to the palate of this vineyard-designate— oak. Herbal, it has a juicy underbelly of fresh plum with a nose of red currant, cedar and tobacco, a well-resolved expression of plum, cranberry and and currant that succeeds on its light-bodied frame. supported by firm chalky tannin. Dark-chocolate red currant. Plush and soft, it does the variety jus- —V.B. mocha layers come into play as it opens on the pal- tice, making the case for complexity and approach- abv: 13.9% Price: $25 ate, offering a substantial mouthfeel of weighty con- ability in one glass. —V.B. centration and juicy voluptuousness. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $98 Tin Barn 2014 Pickberry Vineyard Reserve abv: 14.5% Price: $95 86 Merlot (Sonoma Valley). Thick and richly Leoness 2013 Los Caballos Vineyard Merlot concentrated, this reserve-tier wine shows a wealth Sean Thackrey 2011 Hossfield Vineyard Caber- 91 (Temecula Valley). Candied blueberry, vanilla of tart tannins and leather on the palate, baked in 91 net Franc (Napa Valley). Mint and eucalyptus bean, dried dill and anise make for a very approach- black pepper and a strong element of cigar box fla- combine to offer a forest full of aromas and intrigue able and layered nose on this bottling from wine- vor. Big boned and full flavored, it packs a powerful upon the entry of this wine. The presence of mild maker Tim Kramer, a mentor to many in the region. punch. —V.B. tannins makes for an elegant decadence that begs Ripe black fruit, licorice spice and shaved chocolate abv: 14.8% Price: $39 for food—the fruit as tart as dried cranberry and show on the sip, where soft tannins and balanced currant chiseled in bittersweet clove. —V.B. acidity lead into a chalky finish. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $130 abv: 14.9% Price: $46 MALBEC

Makana 2013 Cabernet Franc (Diamond Duckhorn 2014 Merlot (Carneros). Smoky Eighty Four 2013 Malbec (Napa Valley). For 90 Mountain District). This is a burly power- 90 gunpowder and leather greet the nose and 95 full review see page 3. fully built wine that’s mountain grown and exorbi- palate in this cooler-climate wine, which doesn’t abv: 15.1% Price: $42 tant in sticky chewy tannin. Leathery tobacco and hold back on ripeness or grip. Plush and plump red cedar play around savory clove and black pepper. fruit and a perfumed nose of rose make for a compel- J. Davies 2013 Malbec (Diamond Mountain The fruit is elusively overshadowed by black licorice ling experience that’s forceful and generous. —V.B. 94 District). Estate-grown, this 100% varietal and garrigue. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 wine impresses in its total embrace of succulent abv: 15.5% Price: $70 blackberry, plum and mocha goodness, built upon Ehlers Estate 2014 Merlot (St. Helena). This a mountain of structured tannin and quiet oak. Pech Merle 2014 Cabernet Franc (Alexander 90 producer makes a perennial standout of the Touches of milk chocolate play along the palate as it 90 Valley). This is a 100% varietal wine, gentle variety. It is subdued and elegant in its approach to rides along a velvety roadway, finishing soft and silky. in red-cherry fruit and robust oak and tannins. That the lengthy layered weight and the integrated fruit. —V.B. power integrates well with the medium-bodied Plum, cedar and black licorice form a core of flavor abv: 14.5% Price: $85 ripeness, as highlights of black pepper and leather over soft supple tannin and peppery oak, ending in come into play. —V.B. a burst of spice and leather. —V.B. Ledson 2013 Malbec (Dry Creek Valley). For abv: 14% Price: $53 abv: 14.2% Price: $55 90 full review see page 11. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Howell Mountain Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Robert Mondavi 2014 Merlot (Napa Valley). 86 Franc (Napa Valley). This is a hugely ripe 90 For full review see page 11. St. Francis 2014 Wild Oak Vineyard Malbec wine from the proprietor’s estate vineyard, offer- abv: 15% Price: $25 90 (Sonoma Valley). Tight in tannin weight ing a foundation of chalky chewy tannins dotted in and breadth, this big-boned wine is muscular in black cherry, soy and a strong seasoning of clove and Duckhorn 2014 Merlot (Napa Valley). Waxy leather, blackberry and mocha, and robust in power cinnamon. —V.B. 89 plum is given ample richness from a taste abv: 14.5% Price: $85 of milk chocolate in this luxuriously full-bodied

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 and ripeness. The force of its flavor finds additional a brightness of acidity. Vanilla and plum add to the and floral violet intrigue, so inviting on the nose. strength and length on the finish. —V.B. mix, as soft, supple tannins support the weight and It opens slowly to unravel high-toned acidity and abv: 14.9% Price: $38 breadth of an approachable wine. —V.B. aspects of wild berry that are irresistible in their abv: 14.1% Price: $32 succulence and depth. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $50 PETITE SIRAH Shannon Ridge 2015 High Elevation Col- 90 lection Petite Sirah (Lake County). For full Falcone 2015 Syrah (Paso Robles). Deep Carlisle 2015 Palisades Vineyard Petite Sirah review see page 12. 94 purple in color, this bottling by John and 95 (Napa Valley). For fans of the variety, this abv: 13.9% Price: $20 Helen Falcone expertly balances the richness of ripe is a consistently blockbuster wine, well made and fruit from eastern Paso with the savory and spici- remarkably fruity and floral. Violet aromas ride qui- Wilderotter 2014 Petite Sirah (Shenandoah ness provided by Syrah. Blackberry, black pepper, etly over rounded flavors of cherry pie as the body 90 Valley). Dark and thick, this full-bodied tar and lilac show on the nose, while the palate takes on full-figured dimension. Richly voluptuous, wine from the Sierra region brings truckloads of upholds those elements with persistent acidity and there’s balance here within the firm robust tannin jammy fruit flavors along with a firm texture that soft yet upright tannins. It’s ready to drink right structure and heady licorice-laden end. —V.B. doesn’t overly tighten the tannic grip. The black- now, but will last for years as well. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $50 berry and black-cherry notes are simply delicious. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 —J.G. Elyse 2012 York Creek Vineyard Petite Sirah abv: 14.6% Price: $32 Leoness 2013 Signature Selection Syrah 94 (Spring Mountain District). This is from a 92 (Temecula Valley). Ripe and thick kirsch tremendous vineyard site near the top of the appel- Crux 2013 Petite Sirah (Russian River Val- aromas meet with a minty chocolate lift on the nose lation, situated from 1,250 to 1,800 feet. It incor- 88 ley). Just a small amount of this wine was of this bottling from one of the most important pro- porates small additions of Zinfandel and Carignane made, blended with 7% Zinfandel and 5% Syrah. ducers in Temecula, where the winery’s influence into the whole, a picture of soft beguiling violet Dark juicy fruit finds a way to succeed on the bold is unparalleled. The warmer climate influence is aromas that are followed by a velvety texture and big-boned palate as notes of licorice and leather dialed back expertly on the palate, allowing herb- underlying grip of tannin. Rich red fruit and a taste add savory undertones to the softly tannic madness. laced black-plum and berry fruit to shine, decorated of licorice linger on the intense finish. —V.B. —V.B. with lavender and bay leaf. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $37 abv: 14.5% Price: $42 abv: 95% Price: $95

Counter Punch 2014 Petite Sirah (Sierra Foppiano 2013 Estate Petite Sirah (Russian Zaca Mesa 2013 Black Bear Block Syrah (Santa 93 Foothills). For full review see page 5. Cellar 88 River Valley). One of the producer’s signa- 92 Ynez Valley). Beautiful black-cherry fruit Selection. ture varieties, this impresses in its nutty gamy over- meets with touches of caramel and liquefied violet abv: 14.5% Price: $34 view that recalls the sensations and smells of an on the well-integrated nose of this bottling from Italian deli. Rich red fruit makes for a juicy core built the oldest Syrah planting in Santa Barbara County. Retro 2012 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). This around substantial tannins that become supple on The flavors are still a bit wound up, even four years 93 100% varietal wine is grown in Pope Valley the palate. The finish is about black pepper. —V.B. on, but the black-currant, lavender, rosemary and on the eastern edge of the valley. Asian five-spice, abv: 14.9% Price: $25 charred-beef elements should rise above the wine’s strawberry and raspberry meld together seamlessly firm sticky tannins soon. Drink 2018–2023.Cellar as a grip of tannin persists alongside a side note of McManis 2015 Petite Sirah (California). For Selection. —M.K. oak. Ripe and rich, it has a pretty nose of bay and 88 full review see page 14. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $68 mocha, finishing smoothly etched in supportive, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 subtle acidity. —V.B. Belden Barns 2014 Estate Grown Syrah abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Berryessa Gap 2013 Petite Sirah (Yolo County). 91 (Sonoma Mountain). Thick on the nose in 87 This concentrated but not overwhelming black pepper and garrigue, this wine is velvety in lay- Chacewater 2013 Petite Sirah (Lake County). wine has charred-wood aromas and ripe, almost ers of berry and cherry, with a hearty tobacco chaser. 91 For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. sweet blackberry and raspberry flavors. It’s ripe Concentrated and duly ripe, it brightens in the glass abv: 14.6% Price: $25 enough to be syrupy, but doesn’t go over the top. to show compelling bursts of white pepper and vio- —J.G. let. —V.B. Retro 2012 Elevation Old Vine Petite Sirah abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 15% Price: $42 91 (Howell Mountain). From a site situated at 1,800-feet in elevation, this is an incredibly elegant Firestone 2014 Clone 174 Syrah (Santa Ynez expression of this grape, blended with 15% Syrah SYRAH 91 Valley). Roasted meats, black fruit, charcoal and 10% Zinfandel. Tar, ginger, leather and oak and tar show on the nose of this clonal selection complement blueberry and blackberry succulence Carlisle 2015 Papa’s Block Syrah (Russian from this pioneering winery that is now owned by around a rich, round, soft and substantial core of 94 River Valley). Meaty in wild berry and Bill Foley. The medium-bodied sip shows roasted structure and flavor. —V.B. leather, this is a high-toned wine with a gritty tex- blackberries, boysenberries and black currants, abv: 13.4% Price: $45 ture that evolves to become velvety in the glass. with charred meat leading into a caramelized finish. Generously ripe and rich in body, it’s intense and The acid and tannin levels are solid right now and Andis 2013 Petite Sirah (Sierra Foothills). fresh in equal measure, showing a complement of will age well too. —M.K. 90 For full review see page 10. balanced brawn and beauty. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 15.1% Price: $25 abv: 15% Price: $44 Inspiration 2014 Syrah (Dry Creek Valley). Puccioni 2014 Puccioni Ranch Petite Sirah Dutton-Goldfield 2014 Cherry Ridge Vine- 91 From the Palindrome Vineyard, this meaty 90 (Dry Creek Valley). Raisin cake and dried 94 yard Syrah (Russian River Valley). From a red is perfumed and thick, velvety smooth in texture cherry are highlighted in this fairly light expression site on the western edge of Green Valley, this wine and substantial in approach. Garrigue, leather pouch of what can otherwise be a hearty variety, buoyed by rocks in its light-bodied wrestling of white pepper and wild strawberry play well together as wafts of

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cigar filter in quietly. Brawny, this wine manages to helping to keep it from becoming overbearing. Ripe, Frequency 2015 Colson Canyon Vineyard also be balanced and delicious to drink. —V.B. the tannins are soft and chewy. —V.B. 93 Grenache (Santa Barbara County). Vibrant abv: 14.9% Price: $36 abv: 14.9% Price: $60 aromas of raspberry, tart cherry, lavender, red flow- ers and freshly plucked garden herbs show on the Leoness 2013 Alessandro Vineyard Syrah Falkner 2014 Rock Creek Vineyard Syrah pretty nose of this bottling by Zac Wasserman. The 91 (Temecula Valley). For full review see page 88 (Temecula Valley). Savory aromas of sip starts with a touch of unexpected red-fruit rich- 10. Editors’ Choice. roasted meat combine with cooked blueberry, slight ness, then rides waves of sandalwood, dried rose abv: 14.1% Price: $46 raisin and a touch of chocolate sauce on the nose petals and thyme. The acidity is mouthwatering and of this bottling. Flavors of cooked plums, prune and the tannins a bit sticky. Altogether it is both light Rendarrio Vineyards 2014 The Lost Ones Syrah figs make for an interesting palate, full of dried gin- and lively. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 91 (Santa Barbara County). Fairly shy aromas of ger spice and a well-woven tannic texture. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 blackberry juice, uncracked peppercorns and dried abv: 14.9% Price: $45 lilacs show on the nose of this bottling by Ryan Inspiration 2015 Grenache (Sonoma Valley). Render. Cooked meat flavors are evident on the sip, Qupé 2014 Syrah (Central Coast). Tightly 93 Sourced from Ceja Vineyards, this wine including bacon fat and charred beef, and there is a 88 wound purple fruits are decorated by pep- impresses in crisp dried red fruit and perfumed flo- rich blackberry-sauce component as well. Cracked percorn, roasted lamb and a tarry touch on the ral aromatics that go on for days. Velvety in texture pepper also arises, making this a Syrah that will nose of this bottling by Bob Lindquist, which also and robust in power, it offers big shoulders around a please many palates. —M.K. includes small bits of Tempranillo and other variet- tartness of acidity and complex baking spice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 ies. The cool climate character is carried to the sip abv: 14.6% Price: $29 as well, where charred black-currant, white-pepper, Tensley 2015 Colson Canyon Vineyard Syrah rosemary and grilled-beef flavors abound. —M.K. Kings Carey 2014 Grenache (Santa Ynez 91 (Santa Barbara County). This bottling is still abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 ­Valley). This bottling from John Sebastiano very young and will vastly improve with time, but Vineyard is a great example of how a light Grenache already shows many of the components that make Firestone 2014 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). can entertain needy palates. Sagebrush-laced aro- this remote mountain-surrounded vineyard one 87 Pressed lavender, cola and lively elderberries mas of wild thyme and tree bark mesh with tart of the more exciting slices of the region. Aromas of show on the familiar nose of this solid bottling. The pomegranate, red currant and a touch of red-cherry black currant and purple flowers are deep and heady, flavors are fresh with purple flowers and black-cur- pie on the nose. The tea-leaf-laced sip shows rasp- while the palate’s richer blackberry-syrup notes are rants, with a charred-beef component holding the berry, red plum and red apple, which just enough cut by a black-plum tang, fresh underbrush herba- varietal torch high. It’s a great everyday wine, with tannic structure. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. ceousness and tons of cola spice. —M.K. a tannic structure to keep it alive for years. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $29 abv: 15% Price: $42 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 MCV 2015 Grenache (Paso Robles). Plummy Belharra 2015 Las Madres Vineyards Syrah Leoness 2013 Fitzpatrick Vineyard Syrah 92 fruit aromas meet with nutmeg and vanilla 90 (Carneros). This is from a cool-climate 87 (Temecula Valley). Lots of raisins, prunes on the pleasing if somewhat simple nose of this 9-acre site divided into two blocks, cooled by after- and heavy baking spice show on the nose of this bottling. The palate grows much more interesting, noon breezes off San Pablo Bay. It shows off the site single-vineyard bottling, as well as hints of black lively and delicious, as rounded, juicy red fruits in its embrace of high-toned fruit flavors of plum, pepper and shredded asphalt. Exotic figs and prunes are cut by star anise and cinnamon flavors. A spicy blueberry, cranberry and dried cherry, the back- also make an appearance on the palate, which is acidity cuts through the elegant tannic structure. ground meaty in chewy tannin and concentrated oak. framed by a decent tannic grip. —M.K. —M.K. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $46 abv: 15.3% Price: $42 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Monte De Oro 2011 Vista del Monte Vineyard Belden Barns 2015 Estate Grown Grenache Vagabond 2014 Syrah (Napa Valley). A 85 Reserve Syrah (Temecula Valley). Scents 91 (Sonoma Mountain). Opening aromatically 90 100% varietal wine made by Kirk Venge, of stewed blueberry and black cherry devolve into effusive as a rose garden, this wine takes on darker, this tiny-production offering is concentrated in prunes and raisins on the nose of this bottling, but thicker overtones of baked strawberry rhubarb as a leather and dark baked fruit. Rich and rewarding, the dried ginger and dark spice elements add com- heaviness of tannin and oak permeates the midpal- it wears its voluptuousness well, showing the palate plexity. It’s dense on the palate, with strong acid- ate. Its youthful power should mellow as an under- with firm chewy tannin and integrated oak. —V.B. ity cutting the meaty quality of the midpalate, with lying, almost carbonic freshness lurks. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $60 pruney flavors throughout. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $44 abv: 16% Price: $80 Ken Brown 2013 Watch Hill Vineyard Syrah Kokomo 2015 Grenache (Dry Creek Valley). 89 (Santa Barbara County). Dr. Pepper, black 90 Bright and generously oaked, this wine is plum and poppy-seed aromas show on this bottling GRENACHE ripe and softly layered, an explosion of strawberry by Ken Brown, who planted the first Syrah in Santa and raspberry that takes on a jammy consistency of Barbara County in 1978. The soft palate offers cola, Barbieri 2015 Dromeus Grenache (Central power and big flavor. —V.B. candied black cherry and violet flavors, lacking many 93 Coast). This extremely aromatic bottling abv: 14.7% Price: $36 of the gamy qualities found in the region. —M.K. shows cola, dark red cherry, black plum, nutmeg, cin- abv: 14.9% Price: $45 namon and concentrated hibiscus on the nose, which Clos La Chance 2013 Reserve Grenache (Cen- remains light despite all of the aromas. The acid- 89 tral Coast). Very focused and deep aromas Chalk Hill 2014 Chairman’s Club Syrah (Chalk driven zippy wine leaps onto the palate with exotic of boysenberry, violet, rose petal and anise make 88 Hill). A 100% varietal wine from the pro- plum and mulberry flavors, proving quite amazing for a heady rich entry into this Grenache. There’s ducer’s estate, the grapes planted in rocky volcanic in how so many flavors can ride such a light frame. a touch of caramel to the sip, where black cherry, soils, this wine showcases a thicket of blueberry and —M.K. clove, dried ginger and leather also show. It’s a good smoky meat, with a high-toned backbone of acidity abv: 14.3% Price: $48

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 example of how Grenache can ride the heavier side give it personality and intellectual challenge, asking densely powerful wine, full of blackberry-jam flavor of the scale with style. —M.K. for forgiveness rather than permission. —V.B. dipped in chocolate and cinnamon spice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 15.9% Price: $50 abv: 14.8% Price: $44

Kings Carey 2015 Grenache (Sta. Rita Hills). Joseph Swan Vineyards 2012 Zeigler Vineyard Scott Harvey 2014 Mountain Selection Zin- 89 Quite light in the glass, this bottling by 93 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Sanguine 92 fandel (Amador County). Good concentra- James Sparks of Liquid Farm fame shows cherry, and restrained, this is a lovely version of the vari- tion and a nicely tannic velvety texture make a great hibiscus, cola and a touch of garrigue on the delicate ety from the region. It is high-toned in refreshing combination in this gutsy full-bodied wine. The nose. There is a noticeable tannic structure to the acidity and accented in red cherry and a memora- aromas and flavors favor sunbaked earth, ripe plum, sip, where red-cherry and rose-petal flavors are quite ble spiciness of cinnamon and pepper. Completely sage and beef juices, creating a complex and brawny mellow, refreshing and very quaffable. Time may add understated, it will do well at the table or on its own character that will pair awesomely with a grilled more complexity, but it’s fun and lively now. —M.K. as aperitif fare. —V.B. steak or chop. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $34 abv: 14.5% Price: $25

Kokomo 2015 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Uvaggio 2015 Primitivo (Lodi). A wine for ZINFANDEL 93 This wine surprises and delights in its heady 92 grown-ups, this is big but balanced and dry perfume and depth of cherry, cinnamon and brown in style. It matches impressive layers of just-ripe Carlisle 2015 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). sugar. Undoubtedly ripe, it holds its boldness well, blackberry and black-plum flavors with a sturdy 94 Big and juicy, this wine draws on a few allowing for glimpses of elegance amid the velvety structure of fine-grained tannins that clean the pal- sources as well as 15% Petite Sirah to offer a com- layers of serious flavor. —V.B. ate easily. It has considerable depth and focus, indi- plex and layered expression of black cherry, carda- abv: 16.3% Price: $28 cated by how the dark fruits seem to keep increas- mom and chocolate. Rich from start to finish, it sat- ing in intensity even on the finish. Editors’ Choice. isfies as it calls out for smoky meat. —V.B. Scott Harvey 2014 Vineyard 1869 Zinfandel —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $37 93 (Amador County). This is a great example of abv: 14.5% Price: $22 a dry well-balanced Zin to drink with dinner rather Carlisle 2015 Limerick Lane Vineyard Zin- than as a sweet dessert. It’s also a taste of history, August Briggs 2013 Old Vines Zinfandel (Cal- 94 fandel (Russian River Valley). Floral and coming from a vineyard originally planted in 1869. 91 istoga). Brawny as a leather pouch, this surprisingly bright, this wine is driven by sharply It’s medium bodied, nicely structured with firm big-shouldered wine shows the age of its vines in etched acidity and citrus—its flavors balanced and tannins and has aromatic complexity from cedar, blackberry-compote flavor and accents of cinnamon complementary. Red cherry and raspberry find tobacco and cardamom notes, plus delicious just- and smoky char. Bright perfumed aromatics lift the companionship in seasonings of cinnamon and ripe cherry flavors.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. burly, concentrated fruit alongside supportive acid- clove, the texture slightly leathery and bold. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $48 ity and a succulent finish. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $47 abv: 14.7% Price: $35 Carlisle 2015 Mancini Ranch Zinfandel (Rus- Scott Harvey 2012 Old Vine Reserve Zinfandel 92 sian River Valley). This is a boldly jammy Carlisle 2015 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). 94 (Amador County). Composed, complex and uninhibitedly ripe wine—a mix of compost, old 91 The great majority of this wine is made from complete, this mellow wine is very comfortable in barn, jammy raspberry and prune. The size and old-vine grapes, planted pre-Prohibition. The age its skin. Touches of oak, tobacco, dried plum and structure work well together, with toasted oak sup- tells tales of soft leathery chewiness on the palate cardamom fill the aroma, and ripe but not over- porting brawny texture and grip. —V.B. as swathes of cherry-syrup flavor make for a hearty ripe black cherry, tamarind and cola flavors flood abv: 15.9% Price: $47 velvety explosion that’s lengthy and rich. Black lico- the palate, supported by fine-grained tannins and rice plays a part. —V.B. medium-full body. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. Clif Family 2015 Gary’s Improv Zinfandel abv: 15.3% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $38 92 (Howell Mountain). This wine is lengthy and earthy, with wraparound tannins that coat the Carlisle 2014 Hayne Vineyard Zinfandel (Napa Tres Sabores 2014 Perspective Estate Zin- mouth. Smoky char, black licorice and a depth of 91 Valley). This is the last vintage from this site 94 fandel (Rutherford). For full review see baked plum provide decadence and ripe rich flavor from this producer: a sad farewell that doesn’t hold page 4. within complex structure of acidity. —V.B. back on ripeness or full-figured body. Lush and soft abv: 13.9% Price: $38 abv: 15.3% Price: $45 on the palate, it has a strong sense of self, etched in black cherry, chocolate mint and firm tannin. Sock Carlisle 2015 Monte Rosso Vineyard Zinfandel Oak Farm 2015 Zinfandel (Lodi). For full it away and best enjoy beginning in 2024. Cellar 93 (Sonoma Valley). From the mighty site, this 92 review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. Selection. —V.B. is a mountainous wine, generous and layered with abv: 15% Price: $24 abv: 15.8% Price: $50 bold big flavor. Plum candy, cinnamon, nutmeg, lico- rice and raspberry swirl in the glass with tension and Sbragia 2014 La Promessa Zinfandel (Dry Crux 2014 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). grace, finishing in a wrapping of firm oak and tannin. 92 Creek Valley). This is a rich concentrated 91 Richly rewarding as a berry bramble, this —V.B. and high-toned wine, layered in cinnamon, choco- wine is bright and refreshing within a softly layered abv: 15.5% Price: $47 late and blackberry jam, with an underlying acidity texture of ripeness and a full body. Cinnamon and that keeps it fresh despite its thick wrapping of oak. leather saddle complement the heady fruit. —V.B. Inspiration 2015 Estate Old Vines Zinfandel A handful of Petite Sirah is within the blend. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $34 93 (Russian River Valley). Despite its deca- abv: 14.6% Price: $40 dent profile, this wine manages to be complex and Deaver 2015 Primitivo (Amador County). A beguiling, intensely fruity, with an uplift of high- Sbragia 2014 Nonno’s Reserve Old Vine Zin- 91 very dark color and intensely ripe aromas toned red cherry. Violet, lavender and gamy meat 92 fandel (Dry Creek Valley). Pungently earthy precede flavors of black cherry, blackberry jam and in cigar box and compost, this is a compact and brown sugar in this full-bodied and thickly textured

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wine. It’s impressive for the level of concentration full-bodied and bold in its brawny embrace of rich flavors meld nicely with rich raspberry and sweet and sense of saturation. —J.G. fruit, showcasing dense layers of cherry, plum and cherry notes. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 16.2% Price: $28 vanilla. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $12 abv: 15% Price: $45 EOS 2015 Algunas Dias Zinfandel (Paso Vintage Cowboy 2014 Estate Zinfandel (San 91 ­Robles). Plump blackberry, dark strawberry, Gnarly Head 2015 Old Vine Zin Zinfandel 87 Luis Obispo County). Generous black plum, dried herbs and baking spice show on the nose of 89 (Lodi). Intensely ripe, jammy and toasty dried purple flowers, sweet raisin and sarsaparilla this well-rounded and easily likable bottling. The aromas and equally effusive fruit flavors make this spice show on the nose of this bottling. The flavors palate mixes fleshy red and purple fruit with a full-bodied wine easy to enjoy. It seems to overflow are rich and full with bright red plum and straw- strong chaparral component in the midpalate. The with boysenberry and blackberry, and has a touch of berry, but there is a rocky core and pinch of oregano firm grippy texture makes this a more serious Zin- wood smoke from oak. Best Buy. —J.G. as well. —M.K. fandel than most. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 15.6% Price: $23 abv: 15.5% Price: $36 Opolo 2015 Summit Creek Zinfandel (Paso Angry Bunch 2014 Zinfandel (Mendocino Joseph Swan Vineyards 2012 Bastoni Vine- 89 Robles). Dried strawberry, herb-laced berry 86 County). Aromas like bourbon and soy meet 91 yards Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Perfumed compote, maple and campfire aromas show on the flavors of dried herbs, raspberries and black cher- and lovely, this hearty full-bodied wine evokes berry nose of this bottling from one of the earlier Paso pio- ries in this full-bodied dry wine. It creates a good pie, so rich and brambly is its depth of concentrated neers of the modern era. It’s soft in texture and rich mouthful of flavor and has a healthy dose of tannin flavor. Rapturous, it finds its savory side with an in syrupy strawberry and plum flavors, enhanced by for a nicely firm texture. —J.G. intensity of cinnamon, nutmeg and pepper. —V.B. hints of mocha and held up by firm tannins on the abv: 14.2% Price: $15 abv: 14.6% Price: $30 finish. —M.K. abv: 16.5% Price: $19 Black Saint Peter 2015 Old Vine Zinfandel Laura Michael 2012 Oat Hill Estate Zinfandel 86 (Lodi). Smoke and black pepper accents 91 (Calistoga). Rich and robust, this estate wine Bruliam 2015 Rocky Ridge Vineyard Zin- give a nice kick to this otherwise fruity berry-like shines in milk chocolate, leather and smoky oak, its 88 fandel (Rockpile). Restrained and dusty wine. It is medium bodied, has a soft easy texture texture densely layered and soft. —V.B. in leathery tannin, this wine opens in the glass to and a touch of brown sugar on the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $45 unravel bold black-fruit and licorice power, offering abv: 14.4% Price: $16 stark succulence and moderate acidity on the palate. MacLeod 2014 Indian Springs Ranch Estate —V.B. Twisted Paso 2014 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). 91 Grown Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). Sanguine, abv: 14.9% Price: $42 86 A tad shy on the nose, this offers dark fruit with a voluptuous mouthfeel, this wine is soft and and earthy aromas. The flavors are woody with integrated in chewy sticky tannins that resolve in Laura Michael 2012 Old Vines Zinfandel (Dry cedar and pencil shavings decorating the dark core the glass, and dusty in dried herb. Blackberry bram- 88 Creek Valley). High-pitched acidity helps of toast and charred fruit. —M.K. ble adds a fruity edge that finds companionship in balance the bigger, bolder elements of truffle earth, abv: NA Price: $20 the boldly etched fruit. —V.B. leather and cherry cordial than run freely in this abv: 14.5% Price: $30 full-bodied softly textured wine. —V.B. Deaver 2013 Henry’s House Zinfandel (Cali- abv: 14.8% Price: $35 85 fornia). This full-bodied wine has unapolo- Saldo 2014 Zinfandel (California). Saldo getic late-harvest flavors like raisins and prunes 91 comes from the folks who brought you The Monte Volpe 2013 Primitivo (Mendocino dusted with dried herbs, and a firm texture that Prisoner. Admirable ripeness and lushness carry 88 County). Unusually restrained for the vari- comes with alcoholic heat. —J.G. this full-bodied, dark-colored and densely fruity etal, this appetizing and firmly textured wine has abv: 15.9% Price: $27 wine from a smoky aroma through jammy dark-fruit moderate fruit and clove flavors, great balance and flavors to a lingering finish that has a drop of baking- a good snap of tannin in the mouthfeel. Its sense of Sans Wine Co 2016 Poor Ranch Vineyards Zin- spice sweetness. —J.G. moderation will make it consistently likeable, bottle 83 fandel (Mendocino County). This unbaked abv: 15.9% Price: $30 after bottle. —J.G. wine in a can tastes a bit tired, but it has an earthy abv: 14.5% Price: $28 appeal. The color is a brownish red and the aromas Graziano 2013 Reserve Zinfandel (Mendocino seem dusty and mature. The flavors are beefy and 90 County). Big but poised, this full-bodied, Sbragia 2014 Italo’s Vineyard Zinfandel peppery while the texture is nicely tannic. —J.G. 100% varietal wine has plenty of dark berry and 88 (Alexander Valley). Intensely built, this is a abv: 14% Price: $10/375 ml spice flavors and a generous broad texture that’s big-boned and richly layered wine, dense and ripe in well supported by tannins. It’s nicely dry, mouthfill- blackberry jam. The fruit is joined by smoky oak and ing and needs a rich protein dish to pair with. —J.G. further flavors of chocolate-covered coconut. —V.B. RED BLENDS abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 15.2% Price: $36 Derby 2013 Fifteen 10 Red Derby Vineyard Joseph Swan Vineyards 2012 Mancini Ranch Deaver 2013 Ten Zin Zinfandel (Amador 93 (Paso Robles). Named for the address of the 90 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Subdued 87 County). Quite sweet and quite delicious, vineyard on Live Oak Road, this blend of 30% Gre- and delicately ripe, this wine offers understated this ripe and fruity wine has lots of black plum, nache, 24% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, 13% Cinsault, notions of leather, chocolate and blackberry bram- dried cherry and raisin flavors, a soft texture and a 10% Counoise and 3% Viognier shows powerful ble, with an electric undercurrent of fresh-squeezed lingering, berry-pie finish. —J.G. licorice, cola, caramel, baked plum and thyme on citrus. Light and bright, this is a study in holding abv: 16.2% Price: $30 the nose. The tannins are extremely soft on the sip, back, with complexity at its core. —V.B. where lavish but not overripe purple flowers and abv: 12.9% Price: $34 Tortoise Creek 2015 The Chelonian ­Zinfandel black fruit compete for attention. —M.K. 87 (Lodi). Sweet-seeming fruit and maple abv: 15.5% Price: $32 Raymond 2014 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). flavors give a candy-like quality to this medium- 90 Smooth and soft in texture, this wine is bodied, ripe and soft wine. The vanilla and maple

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Jamie Slone Wines 2013 P1 (Santa Barbara from ground to glass by the labor crew that’s Jamie Slone Wines 2013 BoRific (Happy Canyon 93 County). Focused aromas of blackberry, worked for Grassini since the estate was founded. 91 of Santa Barbara). Tightly wound aromas of elderberry and black currant show on the nose of They know what they’re doing, as this is delicious blueberry and black currant ride a cedar backbone this blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Syrah and complex, with blackberry, black currant, bitter- on the elegant nose of this blend of 60% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc, which also offers hints of sweet chocolate and licorice on the nose. The palate 22% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, leather, nettle and caramel on the nose. It’s lively packs black plum, black cherry and charred meat 2% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot, which also offers a on the palate, with black raspberry, rose petals and with a cocoa finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. touch of vanilla. The palate balances dill and marjo- violets, framed by a vibrant acidity and worthy abv: 15.5% Price: $35 ram with tangy red fruit and cinnamon spice. —M.K. structure. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $48 abv: 13.8% Price: $48 Obsidian Ridge 2013 Half Mile 2640’ (Red 92 Hills Lake County). A monument to tannin, Leoness 2013 Grande Mélange (Temecula Robert Renzoni 2012 Fiore di Fano (Temecula but densely concentrated, too, this full-bodied, 91 Valley). There’s a lot of desert-based flavors 93 Valley). For full review see page 6. Editors’ smoky-smelling, deeply colored and potent-tasting to explore and enjoy in this blend, starting with Choice. wine wraps a thick blanket of astringency around a prominent chaparral underbrush and campfire abv: 13.9% Price: $75 dense cranberry, blueberry and black-olive flavors. tone to the nose, followed by the tangy red-plum, It’s so young and tight that it should be served only smoke, salt and pepper notes. The sip is welcoming Sheldon 2015 The Red Hat Old Vine Field with indulgent rich food to counter the bite. Best, and broad, with bright strawberry fruit decorated 93 Blend (Napa Valley). Made in even smaller and potentially great, after 2022.Cellar Selection. by licorice, mocha and anise, altogether quite well amounts than the vintage before it, this combines —J.G. rounded. —M.K. 90% Petite Sirah with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.7% Price: $60 abv: 14.2% Price: $95 from old head-pruned vines. The winemakers suc- ceeded in coaxing fruity raspberry and blackberry Sheldon 2014 The Red Hat Old Vine Field Matchbook 2014 The Arsonist Red Blend (Cali- around a fully brazen acidity that explodes on the 92 Blend (Napa Valley). Blending 77% Petite 91 fornia). For full review see page 10. Editors’ palate. Softly textured, the wine is incredibly fra- Sirah and 23% Cabernet Sauvignon from a field Choice. grant and inviting in white pepper. Editors’ Choice. blend of 80-year-old head-pruned vines, this tiny- abv: 14.3% Price: $22 —V.B. production effort is impressively light on its feet, abv: 13.5% Price: $37 aged in all neutral French oak. An abundance of Mesa Del Sol 2012 Prima Rosso (Arroyo Seco). white pepper jumps from the glass as waves of violet, 91 The nose of this hearty blend of Zinfandel, Bargetto 2013 La Vita (Santa Cruz Moun- leather, tobacco and earth surround the rich round Syrah, Sangiovese and Grenache shows lively vio- 92 tains). Rich aromas of baked black plum palate that is braced in strong underlying acidity. lets as well as a caramelized blackberry touch, with meet with hibiscus, mint and a perfume-like laven- —V.B. peppercorns, dried herbs and tobacco adding spice. der oil on the nose of this blend of 41% Dolcetto, abv: 12.8% Price: $37 It’s viscous yet bone dry on the palate, with lavish 33% Refosco and 26% Nebbiolo. It’s very flavorful cherry and strawberry flavors as well as baked soil yet not heavy on the palate, with crushed blueberry, Bella Luna 2013 Estate Riserva Sangiovese- and gravel-laced minerality. —M.K. gravel and lilac flavors. The vibrant acidity will 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Templeton Gap Dis- abv: 14.5% Price: $32 allow these elements to converge in years to come. trict). For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection. Drink 2018–2028. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 12.9% Price: $52 Naggiar 2014 Estate Grown Le Grand-Pere abv: 13.7% Price: $60 91 (Sierra Foothills). Bold and full bodied, this Chalk Hill 2014 Clara’s Vineyard (Chalk Hill). dry Rhône-style blend has aromas of dark choco- Calcareous 2014 Tres Violet (Paso Robles). 91 Cabernet Sauvignon comprises 59% of late and flavors like cedar, tobacco and blackberry. 92 Quite dark in the glass, this very concen- this wine, with 35% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot Blended from 50% Syrah bolstered by Mourvèdre trated blend of 37% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 28% blended in for good measure. Together, they offer and Gre­nache, it’s quite impressive in terms of con- Mourvèdre shows boisterous aromas of black cur- firm lengthy tannins and a generous presence of centration, well-integrated tannins and a mouth- rant, blueberry, vanilla, violet and clove on the nose. body and weight. The darker characteristics of filling texture. —J.G. Rich as expected in body, the bottling offers nutmeg chocolate and blackberry are balanced by crisp red abv: 14.8% Price: $48 and black-cherry-syrup flavors on the sip, with a currant and spicy clove. —V.B. touch of prune as well. It’s a heavy-duty attention abv: 14.9% Price: $85 Ramey 2014 Template (Napa Valley). This grabber. —M.K. 91 wine combines 70% Merlot from Mount abv: 15.6% Price: $54 Chalk Hill 2014 Estate Red (Chalk Hill). This Veeder with 24% Cabernet Franc grown in Oakville 91 is made largely from Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford. Eli Madyson 2013 Mitigation (South Coast). incorporating Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Together, they meld juicy cedar, cranberry, currant 92 There’s a very focused darkness to the Syrah. Thick, rich and lush, it shows dense layers of and Old-World grip around integrated tannins and nose of this blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, black currant, blackberry, meat, licorice and cedar. softened oak.Editors’ Choice. —V.B. 28% Cabernet Franc and 14% Merlot, with black It finishes rounded and dripping in chocolate. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $85 olive, char and graphite adding to the depth. That abv: 14.9% Price: $70 midnight sensation continues to the palate, where Rodney Strong 2013 Symmetry (Alexander blackberry and blueberry flavors benefit from Grassini 2014 Articondo (Happy Canyon of 91 Valley). This combines all five Bordeaux red touches of vanilla, star anise and more slate-driven 91 Santa Barbara). There’s a boisterous amount varieties into a likable, integrated and smoothened minerality. —M.K. of freshly pressed boysenberry juice, crushed graph- experience on the palate that lingers in bold, con- abv: 14% Price: $42 ite and sweet rose on the very accessible, somewhat centrated flavors of blackberry and cocoa. A juicy soda-poppy nose of this blend of 40% Cabernet core on the midpalate slides effortlessly into a spicy Grassini 2014 Equipo (Happy Canyon of Santa Sauvignon, 30% Petit Verdot, 20% Merlot and finish of clove. —V.B. 92 Barbara). Equipo means team in Spanish, 10% Cabernet Franc. The medium-bodied palate is abv: 14.5% Price: $55 and this blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% plummy with a hint of fennel. —M.K. Petit Verdot and 15% Cabernet Franc is handled abv: 15.4% Price: $45

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Crane Family 2014 Alison’s Cuvée (Napa Y Rousseau 2014 Son of a Butcher (Califor- bines with the fine-grained tannins for an especially 90 ­Valley). For full review see page 11. 89 nia). A very tasty and rather complex wine, tangy mouthfeel. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $33 this blends ripe and friendly fruit flavors with spicy abv: 14.5% Price: $25 accents like cedar and nutmeg, and wraps them in a Trinity River 2014 Black Bear Cuvée (Willow­ smooth texture. Unusually composed of 45% Tan- Opolo 2013 Serenade (Paso Robles). This 90 Creek). This wine tastes taut, young and nat followed by several red Bordeaux varietals, it’s 88 blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and tannic, as ripe red and black cherry are held in by medium bodied, well balanced and should be versa- 40% Malbec is a bit shy on the nose, with aromas of good acidity and strong tannins that give a bite tile before or during a meal. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. charred black plum, lava rock and soy sauce. Dried to the mouthfeel. Made from 75% Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 black-cherry and charred-oak flavors show on the vignon and 25% Merlot, it is full bodied but not sip along with thyme, oregano and marjoram. The heavy, feeling very vibrant and structured. —J.G. Z. Alexander Brown 2015 Uncaged (North tannins are still quite firm. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $28 89 Coast). A notch better than the last two abv: 14.7% Price: $32 very good vintages, this full-bodied wine has an Indigené 2014 Philanthropist (Carmel especially dark color and very concentrated berry Rendarrio Vineyards 2014 The League of 89 ­Valley). Vivacious and juicy blackberry fla- flavors that make it almost irresistible. Flavors like 88 Shadows Clare Ranch Vineyards (Paso vors are spiced by cola and root beer on the nose blackberry jam and crème de cassis follow opulent ­Robles). This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cab- of this annual fund-raising bottling by Raymond dark-chocolate and ripe plum aromas. Editors’ ernet Sauvignon offers lots of thyme and oregano on Smith, and it also shows a touch of chalk on the Choice. —J.G. the savory nose as well as black plum, mocha dust nose. River stones and gravel minerality are present abv: 14.5% Price: $20 and graphite. The palate is rather light bodied, with on the sip, with fresh black plum, more blackberry dried herbs and the slightest hint of green pepper, and dried mint rounding it out. —M.K. Cline 2015 Cashmere Black Magic (California). all set against richer black fruit and pencil shavings. abv: 14.3% Price: $21 88 Ripe, full and plummy, this Rhône-style —M.K. wine is velvety in texture, very smooth but also abv: 14.5% Price: $45 La Honda Winery 2015 Exponent (Santa Cruz backed by subtle tannins. The rich ripe fruit flavors 89 Mountains). This big blend of Cabernet seem to melt together with chocolate and vanilla Seven Daughters 2014 Rich Red Winemaker’s Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Sangiovese presents notes that keep going on the finish. Its blended from 88 Blend (California). Very ripe and fruity and a potent purple-flower aroma on the nose as well as Petite Sarah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. —J.G. ultra smooth in texture, this wine is a treat to drink boysenberry, tar, dried oregano, pepper and leather. abv: 15% Price: $15 and a very good value. A touch of sweetness adds to The bone-dry palate is wrapped in a chalky silky the supple mouthfeel and helps carry the boysen- texture, with nettle, oregano and blackberry flavors. Cline 2015 Cashmere Exquisite (California). berry and blueberry notes through the finish. Best —M.K. 88 Wood smoke and charcoal aromas lead to Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $26 flavors like cola, steak sauce and cherries in this abv: 13.5% Price: $13 dramatic, Rhône-style wine blended from notori- Leoness 2013 Meritage (Temecula). There ously meaty Mourvèdre plus Grenache and Syrah. A St. Francis 2014 Anthem Meritage (Sonoma 89 are tightly focused aromas of black cherry, touch of sweetness and light tannins complete the 88 County). Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and cedar, leather and graphite on the nose of this blend picture of this wine made by a longtime Rhône vari- Petit Verdot form a rich thick character for this red of 43% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet ety specialist. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. wine, that’s lush and concentrated on the palate. Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot. Fennel and dill show abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Full-bodied ripeness features black-cherry pie in a prominently on the sip against a fatter layer of black graham cracker crust. —V.B. cherry, with a strong mint character on the finish. Cooper-Garrod 2012 Test Pilot P-47D Thun- abv: 14.9% Price: $68 —M.K. 88 derbolt (Santa Cruz Mountains). This blend abv: 14.1% Price: $36 of 64% Syrah and 36% Cabernet Sauvignon is Tanner 2013 Angelo’s Estate Grown Red starting to show its age, with light prune, dried 88 (Sierra Foothills). This is a nicely balanced, McManis 2015 North Forty Red Wine (Cali- cherry-tobacco and clove aromas. Dried strawberry, dry and amply fruity wine that tastes ripe and feels 89 fornia). For full review see page 12. star anise and baking spice arise on the palate, full, while not being tricked up with an obvious oak abv: 13.5% Price: $18 which is full of flavor but should be enjoyed soon. element. Breaking the mold with a blend of Cari- —M.K. gnane, Barbera and Syrah, it has ripe blackberry Naggiar 2014 Il Nonno Estate Reserve (­Sierra abv: 13.8% Price: $41 and black-cherry flavors backed by good acidity and 89 Foothills). Smooth and chocolaty, this full- moderate tannins. —J.G. bodied wine is blended from a majority of San- Ghost Pines 2014 Winemaker’s Blend abv: 13.9% Price: $28 giovese along with Syrah, Petite Sirah and Petite 88 (Sonoma County-Lake County). This com- Verdot. It has a very dark color, concentrated and bines 46% Zinfandel with 27% Syrah, 18% Petite Trinity River 2013 Coho Red (Willow Creek). jammy fruit flavors, a streak of sweetness and a Sirah and smaller amounts of Tannat and Sangio- 88 Medium bodied but intense and concen- plush texture. It’s quite tannic so the sugar helps vese. Together, they form a concentrated, full-bod- trated, this is a tightly wound Merlot-based wine. It soften the grip on the palate. —J.G. ied and highly ripe combination that’s soft, smooth has tangy cherry and cranberry at its core and suf- abv: 14.8% Price: $44 and simple, offering rich flavors of plum, blueberry ficient fine-grained tannins woven in to broaden the coffee cake and chocolate. —V.B. mouthfeel a bit. —J.G. Solitary Cellars 2014 Ball & Chain (California). abv: 14.9% Price: $23 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 89 This full-bodied attractively dry wine has very flavorful blackberry and black-cherry accents Hart 2 Hart 2014 Romantique Harmony Pilot V. Sattui 2014 La Merica (Napa Valley). This and a good grippy moderately tannic texture. 88 Ridge Vineyard Estate Grown (El Dorado). 88 proprietary blend brings together many of Blended from Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah, Vivid berry flavors drive this medium-bodied, lively Napa Valley’s old-vine grapes, from Zinfandel and it’s nicely balanced and complete: a go-to wine for and firmly tannic wine. It has good acidity that com- Petite Sirah to Alicante Bouschet and Mourvèdre. almost any occasion. —J.G. Plum sauce, tobacco and leather are seasoned in abv: 14.6% Price: $28

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 black pepper and espresso within a full-bodied Ferrari-Carano 2014 Tresor (Sonoma County). now for something completely different, this wine grippy package. —V.B. 86 Billowy tannins star in this blend of 62% explodes in whole-cluster, carbonic freshness and abv: 14.8% Price: $33 Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot, 11% Mal- surprise. It’s a light cerebral take on the variety that bec, 10% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Smoky delights at every turn. Stainless-steel fermented Vintage Cowboy 2014 Manchego’s Fate (San toast and tobacco form a foundation of prominent and aged, it’s loaded in raspberry and cherry-jam 88 Luis Obispo County). This is an immensely oak and tannin, softened by ripe layers of black flavors and dipped in black licorice. It’s fresh, fruity quaffable blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet cherry, blueberry and mocha. —V.B. and entirely memorable. —V.B. Sauvignon and 20% Zinfandel, showing dark hibis- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 11.7% Price: $41 cus, stewed cherry and roasted coffee on the nose. The flavors are fairly wound up at first, with cherry, Jax 2015 Y3 Taureau (Napa Valley). This Solminer 2015 deLanda Vineyard Blaufrän- vanilla and mocha most prominent. The acidity is 86 rendition of half Merlot with smaller 91 kisch (Santa Ynez Valley). David and Anna medium and the tannins are quite sticky. —M.K. amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfan- deLaski planted this obscure grape on their home abv: 14.8% Price: $28 del is moderate in structure and ripe in plum and vineyard to honor her Austrian roots—the results dark cherry. Soft and smooth, it’s an easy wine to are fascinating. A dark earthy graphite-driven min- Cambridge 2015 Meritage (Napa Valley). share and enjoy in its simplicity. —V.B. erality contrasts with the brighter sweeter straw- 87 This combines all five red Bordeaux variet- abv: 14.5% Price: $20 berry and cherry fruit on the nose, and then the ies, with half of the wine made from Cabernet Sau- bone-dry sip pops with a candied raspberry flavor, vignon. Juicy black cherry, cedar and integrated oak OZV 2015 Red (California). Vivid red-cherry enhanced by fennel and white pepper. Editors’ make for a straightforward, light-bodied and high- 86 and raspberry flavors and a rather high level Choice. —M.K. toned experience in the glass. —V.B. of sweetness make this medium-bodied wine seem abv: 13% Price: $38 abv: 13.8% Price: $30 light and easy. A vanilla accent and soft texture come through on the palate. —J.G. Waterloo 2015 The Harvest of Beulah Land Everhart Cellars 2014 Whitewater Red Pilot abv: 13.5% Price: $12 91 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles). A brick red in color, 87 Ridge Vineyard Estate Grown (El Dorado). this bottling of an usually blended variety is quite Pleasant dark-fruit flavors and a supple texture Paraduxx 2014 Proprietary Red (Napa Valley). compelling and delicious, starting with the intrigu- make this medium-bodied wine easy to drink. It 86 This is a thick full-bodied commingling of ing nose of pine needle and smashed red plum. The has nicely concentrated black cherry and blueberry Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Merlot. Soy, palate picks up Mourvèdre’s leathery hallmark, notes, light tannins and a soft mouthfeel. —J.G. plum sauce and brambly blackberry rise on the pal- which gives rustic elegance to the red cherry and abv: 15% Price: $24 ate. The grapes are a mix of mountain-grown and pine needle spice. —M.K. valley floor. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $32 Ferrari-Carano 2014 Siena (Sonoma County). abv: 14.9% Price: $48 87 This is made from a majority of Sangiovese, Joseph Swan Vineyards 2013 Matthew’s with smaller amounts of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvi- Tanner NV Silver Mine Red (Sierra Foothills). 90 Station Vineyard Tannat (Russian River Val- gnon and Petite Sirah. Juicy, it’s soft in cinnamon, 86 This medium-bodied wine is very floral for ley). Fresh fruit aromas, dominated by black cherry, plum and dark cherry, with an oaky finish. —V.B. a red. It smells like roses and raspberries, tastes expand on the substantial palate. This wine is a rich, abv: 14.5% Price: $21 exuberantly fruity and has a juicy, lightly tannic robust and ripely built expression of a dark-horse texture. —J.G. grape in these parts. Black licorice dots a jammy con- Ampelos 2014 Ampelos Vineyard Syrache abv: 13.1% Price: $38 centration of fruit and of the rich texture, rewarding 86 Syrah-Grenache (Sta. Rita Hills). Made those who like their wines powerfully packed. —V.B. from 67% Syrah and 33% Grenache, this is a thick The Cleaver 2014 Red (California). Sup- abv: 16.1% Price: $30 wine with a straightforward approach to its burly 86 ple and rich, this medium-bodied wine is flavors of dark chocolate and compressed wild slightly sweet, blending berry and cherry flavors Howell Mountain Vineyards 2013 Petit Verdot berry. Touches of garrigue and white pepper slither with milk-chocolate accents. The sweetness softens 90 (Howell Mountain). With a taste of fresh through the midpalate. —V.B. the texture and makes it feel broad and mouth-filling. blueberry cobbler and pie crust, this well-made abv: 14.2% Price: $28 —J.G. wine is from the producer’s mountainous estate. abv: 14.7% Price: $20 Powerful yet soft, it offers further concentrated Benessere 2013 Phenomenon Estate Red flavors of cinnamon, clove and smoke, with just a 86 (St. Helena). Combining Sangiovese, Cab- Emerald Hare 2015 Emerald Hare Red (Cali- touch of violet on the nose. —V.B. ernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot, this is a soft, 85 fornia). Vivid, tangy fruit flavors like rasp- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 round and leathery wine robust in dark fruit and berry and strawberry come with a light sweetness in simple flavors of dried cherry. Tar and soy give it this medium-bodied lightly tannic wine. —J.G. Minassian-Young 2015 Mourvèdre (Paso a savory component that works well with its tangy abv: NA Price: $15 90 Robles). Very dark purple in the glass, this tartness. —V.B. bottling shows leathery red cherry, subtle nutmeg abv: 14.5% Price: $60 Tie-Dye 2014 Red (North Coast). Substantial and ginger spice, a touch of baked soil and stronger 85 fruit flavors and a lightly sweet balance give caramel notes on the nose. Rich black cherry meets Fazeli Cellars 2014 Baba Joon (Califor- this medium- bodied wine a decent drinkability fac- with vanilla on the palate, which is slathered with a 86 nia). This wine’s name translates to “dear tor. The mouthfeel is slightly tannic and the finish strong simmering acidity that’s refreshing although father” in Farsi, the Persian owner’s native tongue. is brief. —J.G. almost too potent. —M.K. The blend of 63% Shiraz and 37% Petite Sirah abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.1% Price: $28 offers black fruit, wet earth and anise on the nose— altogether quite reserved for such a dark wine. The Y Rousseau 2014 Tannat (Russian River mouthfeel is full, but the flavors of black currant OTHER RED WINES 90 ­Valley). This wine sources this rare variety and cola are very shy. —M.K. from Saralee’s Vineyard in the heart of the appella- abv: 13.9% Price: $35 Sheldon 2016 Springloaded Monkey Paw Luc’s tion. Meaty strawberry meets refreshing acidity and 94 Vineyard Tempranillo (Sonoma County). And ample structure, taming the big boldness of flavor,

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all while remaining light and bright in the glass. bine, expanding across the palate. It’s drinking quite ished and lushly endowed with a mix of orange, —V.B. well already but should continue improve through apple, pear and apricot flavors. Its texture, length abv: 13.9% Price: $35 2024. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. and definition are truly impressive. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.9% Price: $65 —P.G. Benessere 2014 Collins Holystone Vineyard abv: 14% Price: $40 86 Aglianico (St. Helena). This is, by the pro- Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2015 Chardonnay ducer’s own admission, the only varietal wine of its 93 (Eola-Amity Hills). This hits the palate with Willamette Valley Vineyards 2015 Vintage type in the Napa Valley, and it’s 100% varietal to full force—a stylish effort that coats the tongue 92 42 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). For full boot. Dried fruit and deli meat give it an Old-World with lush stone fruit flavors, elevated with citrus- review see page 8. edge that veers into prune-like overripeness to the tinged acidity. A light touch of barrel toast frames abv: 14.1% Price: $40 uninitiated. It begs for food. —V.B. the lovely fruit. Drink now through the mid-2020s. abv: 14.5% Price: $58 Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Amalie Robert 2015 Her Silhouette Chardon- abv: 13.9% Price: $35 91 nay (Willamette Valley). This is a lovely, unadorned Chardonnay: no oak, no malo, just great OREGON Fullerton 2015 Lux Chardonnay (Willamette fruit. The beauty and power of the Dijon clones is 93 Valley). This delicious, reserve-level effort on full display, with penetrating citrus and apple CHARDONNAY keeps the alcohol low without sacrificing power, fruit buoyed by punchy acidity that carries through weight or depth of flavor. Barrel-fermented and a long finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. The Eyrie Vineyards 2015 Original Vines Char- aged sur lie, it’s a full-bodied wine with scents and abv: 14.1% Price: $22 95 donnay (Dundee Hills). For full review see flavors of ripe stone fruit, buttered toast and cara- page 4. Cellar Selection. mel. Decant and drink now or cellar for a few years. Hyland 2015 Chardonnay (McMinnville). This abv: 13% Price: $60 Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 91 rich and creamy wine definitely pulls out the abv: 12.5% Price: $55 new barrel flavors, with buttery nut, salted cara- Bergström 2015 Old Stones Chardonnay mel and toast notes highlighting its ripe peach and 94 (Willamette Valley). Irresistably delicious Roco 2015 Knudsen Vineyards Chardonnay apple fruit. From vines planted in 1989, it’s styled and reminiscent of cru Burgundy, this laser-focused 93 (Dundee Hills). Rich, ripe and and full-fla- for drinking right now. —P.G. effort features bright Meyer lemon, tangerine and vored, this has a compelling mix of tree fruit, pine- abv: 13.2% Price: $45 peach flavors, with plenty of juicy acidity. It grows apple and sea-salt caramel flavors. It’s absolutely deeper and richer as it breathes—and seems to delicious now yet able to be cellared for another half Ponzi 2015 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). disappear way too quickly once opened. Editors’ decade at least. —P.G. 91 Vinified in stainless steel, this affordable Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 wine doesn’t need new oak flavors to flesh it out. abv: 12.9% Price: $35 It’s sharply defined, with crisp apple and pear fruit Adelsheim 2015 Chardonnay (Willamette that carries a touch of spice. The length and preci- Bergström 2015 Sigrid Chardonnay (Wil- 92 Valley). For full review see page 6. Editors’ sion are impressive. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 94 lamette Valley). This succulent wine is Choice. abv: 12.8% Price: $22 saturated with rich citrus flavors. Grapefruit, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 lemon, lime and pineapple notes combine while its Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2015 Estate Chardon- 18 months in barrel contributes a layer of buttery Adelsheim 2015 Caitlin’s Reserve Chardon- 90 nay (Eola-Amity Hills). Barrel-fermented toast. —P.G. 92 nay (Willamette Valley). For full review see in half new, half neutral oak, this tasty wine offers abv: 12.9% Price: $95 page 6. Cellar Selection. crisp highlights of lemon and orange peel, along abv: 13.5% Price: $45 with substantial apple, kiwi and pear flavors. An Bethel Heights 2014 The High Wire Estate appealing touch of crème brûlée comes out as it 94 Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). The debut Amalie Robert 2014 Heirloom Cameo Char- makes its graceful exit. —P.G. vintage for this cuvée, this is made from 100% 92 donnay (Willamette Valley). Fermented in a abv: 13.2% Price: $30 Wente clone vines planted in 1977. It’s richly con- 500-liter French oak puncheon and put through full cented on the palate, layered with dried apricot, malo, this stands in stark contrast to the winery’s Chehalem 2016 INOX Unoaked Chardonnay grapefruit and pineapple flavors. A lush, buttery Her Silhouette Chardonnay. Both are exceptional, 90 (Willamette Valley). Aged entirely in stain- note enwraps its long, satisfying, full-bodied finish. yet this is rounder, fuller and more elegant, with less steel tanks, this carries a light touch (7 g/L) of —P.G. crisp apple and pear fruit accented with cinnamon residual sugar but remains sharp, even edgy, with abv: 13.7% Price: $95 spice. —P.G. bright acidity and pine needle highlights. Ripe apple abv: 14.1% Price: $50 and pineapple flavors carry through the clean and Big Table Farm 2015 Elusive Queen Char- refreshing finish. —P.G. 94 donnay (Willamette Valley). This winery is Domaine Drouhin 2015 Arthur Chardonnay abv: 13.2% Price: $20 earning a place among Oregon’s best with its top 92 (Dundee Hills). Some of the region’s old- tier wines, like this one. Complex and loaded with est Dijon clone plantings are in this wine, done in Rain Dance 2015 Nicholas Vineyard Char- bee pollen, crisp apple, lime zest, seabreeze and a firm, classy style with little new wood apparent. 90 donnay (Chehalem Mountains). Crisp and toasted cracker notes, it leaves you breathless the With its crisp apple and citrus fruit and steely edge, well structured, this offers precise fruit and fruit longer it breathes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. it delivers plenty of flavor, a long, penetrating finish skin flavors. Apple and white peach are the high- abv: 13.3% Price: $85 and the sense that it will age nicely for a decade at lights, leading into a graceful finish with a hint of least. —P.G. barrel toast. —P.G. Domaine Drouhin 2015 Édition Limitée Char- abv: 13.9% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 94 donnay (Dundee Hills). Domaine Drouhin’s reserve-level Chardonnay puts new oak flavors front Roco 2015 Gravel Road Chardonnay (Willa- Roco 2015 Marsh Estate Vineyards Chardon- and center but backs them up with ultraripe fruit. A 92 mette Valley). After a faulty first bottle of 90 nay (Yamhill-Carlton). Well defined citrus lush mix of tangerine, melon and peach notes com- this wine, the second was a revelation: sexy, pol- and apple flavors abound, along with touches of yel-

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 low and green fruit. There’s a hint of unripe papaya The flavors are mineral laden, broad and silky in antly creamy finish dappled with hints of dried also, and if the wine spent any time in new oak, it’s feel, showing an impeccable texture and sense of straw. —P.G. not evident. —P.G. balance. This shows a beautiful sense of freshness. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $60 —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $75 Spindrift Cellars 2015 Pinot Blanc (Willa- Sokol Blosser 2015 Chardonnay (Dundee 87 mette Valley). Quite ripe and fruity, this 90 Hills). This wine’s sharply etched, bright Penner-Ash 2016 Viognier (Oregon). For full full-bodied wine brings apple, pear and peach fruit pineapple and underripe peach flavors gain depth 92 review see page 7. in abundance. It’s almost over-the-top, with some from aging in 13% new French oak. A touch of hon- abv: 14.3% Price: $30 noticeable heat on the finish. —P.G. eyed apple and butterscotch lingers on the finish. abv: 14.3% Price: $18 Drink now through 2022. —P.G. Abacela 2016 Viognier (Umpqua Valley). abv: 13% Price: $38 91 Stainless steel fermented and bone-dry, this leesy, creamy wine balances lime, lemon and grape- PINOT GRIS Aubichon Cellars 2015 Chardonnay (Wil- fruit flavors. Those citrus notes roll through richer 88 lamette Valley). Barrel fermentation helps dried apricot tones and into a balanced, persistent Ponzi 2014 Old Vine Pinot Gris (Willamette round out the flavors here, and the wine is drinking finish. Drink now and over the next two years. —P.G. 93 Valley). From the estate’s original vines quite nicely at this young age. Apple and cinnamon abv: 14.5% Price: $26 planted in 1978, this exceptional wine envelops notes combine gracefully, finishing on a touch of the palate with layers of richness not often found fresh pastry. —P.G. Kriselle 2016 Viognier (Rogue Valley). This in Pinot Gris. It’s lush and seductive, with hints of abv: 14.1% Price: $35 87 high-toned wine’s sharp, gin botanical-like honeycomb, brown butter, toasted peanut and dried aromas carry over into its flavors. Lime and other apricot. The flavors persist, and lovely details keep Coelho 2015 Apreciação Chardonnay (Wil- citrus notes are accented with a touch of talcum it interesting through the finish. Editors’ Choice. 88 lamette Valley). Barrel fermented and aged powder and some residual sweetness. Though a bit —P.G. in 15% new oak, this comes on big and bold, with unusual, it’s certainly flavorful. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $38 chunky fruit flavors of lemon, grapefruit and green abv: 14.4% Price: $22 apple. There’s ample acidity, and the light exposure Aubichon Cellars 2015 Sur Peaux Pinot Gris to new oak is handled proportionately. —P.G. 91 (Willamette Valley). Sur Peaux translates to abv: 13% Price: $35 PINOT BLANC “on the skins”—a process that gives this wine its burnished copper hue. More importantly, Dois Irmãos 2015 Chardonnay (Willamette David Hill 2016 Estate Pinot Blanc (Willa- it’s crazy good: soft, supple, delicately spicy yet 87 Valley). Owing perhaps to its youth,this 89 mette Valley). From the producer’s original, bone dry, with a buttery mouthfeel. —P.G. remains an uneasy mix of acid, oak, apple and cit- own-rooted 1965 plantings, this light, dry and lovely abv: 14.5% Price: $45 rus. It has strong components that are not entirely wine offers citrus and apple skin flavors, along with integrated. Another year or two in bottle would be hints of leafy greens. The fruit skin flavors persist Duck Pond 2016 Hylo Vineyard Pinot Gris (Wil- a good idea. —P.G. through its lingering finish. —P.G. 91 lamette Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 12.9% Price: $22 abv: 14.1% Price: $24

Foris 2015 Chardonnay (Rogue Valley). Bar- Elk Cove 2016 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Val- Acrobat 2016 Pinot Gris (Oregon). For full 87 rel fermentation has rounded and softened 89 ley). Steely and firm, this is taut to the 90 review see page 13. Best Buy. this wine without it losing focus. Crisp apple and point of muscular. Its tart apple fruit is accented abv: 13.3% Price: $14 pear fruit carries it, with a whiff of white asparagus. with lemon rind flavors, suggesting some prolonged —P.G. skin contact. Drink now through 2022. —P.G. Aubichon Cellars 2015 Reserve Pinot Gris abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $19 90 (Willamette Valley). This barrel-fermented wine has an aggressive toasty aroma that carries Spindrift Cellars 2016 Chardonnay (Willa- Paetra 2016 Coast Range Pinot Blanc (Willa- over into the flavors. Its ripe apple and buttered 87 mette Valley). This is a solid, fruity, well- 89 mette Valley). Although the label indicates toast notes lead to a finish accented with coconut. A priced wine that brings pear and peach flesh and this is sourced from old vines, no actual date for Chardonnay lover’s Pinot Gris. —P.G. skin flavors. It was briefly barrel aged and is ready that vague term is given. It’s elegant though, and abv: 14.2% Price: $35 for near-term drinking. —P.G. completely dry, layering its delicate herb, lemon abv: 13.5% Price: $16 peel and apple flavors. —P.G. Chehalem 2016 Three Vineyard Pinot Gris abv: 12% Price: $20 90 (Willamette Valley). With its mix of citrus, Twill 2014 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). stone and tropical fruits, this appealing wine is just 87 Ripe apple and banana flavors lead this Brigadoon 2016 Pinot Blanc (Willamette a touch past bone-dry. Sourced entirely from estate native yeast-fermented, oak-aged wine. Its loose- 88 Valley). This clean, fresh and fine-tuned vineyards, it’s supported by just the right amount of knit mix of fruit seems on the cusp of oxidation and wine brings apple, green melon and green leaf fla- acidity. Drink through 2020. —P.G. is countered with tart, lemony acidity. —P.G. vors together, with a burst of tangy acidity. A per- abv: 13.2% Price: $20 abv: 12.2% Price: $27 fect pour for pasta and poultry dishes. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $18 Coelho 2016 Renovação Pinot Gris (Willa- 90 mette Valley). In Coelho’s revamped lineup, VIOGNIER Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2016 David’s Block Renovação has double the residual sugar of the 88 Pinot Blanc (Eola-Amity Hills). This wine’s entry-level Pinot Gris, clocking in at 10 g/L. Fleshed Cayuse 2015 Cailloux Vineyard Viognier lime, kiwi and Asian pear flavors come with a spicy out with riper fruit, it recalls apple, pear and peach 92 (Walla Walla Valley). Aged in a mixture of kick. Four months on the lees seems to have helped and is interspersed with honeycomb notes, result- concrete and stainless steel, this wine brings per- smooth out the midpalate, which leads to a pleas- fumed aromas of crushed stone, flowers and peach.

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ing in a round, ripe mouthfeel that is very satisfy- showing plenty of ripe fruit, from Asian pear, to persistent and fleshy, finishing with a touch of min- ing. —P.G. pineapple to jicama. Best Buy. —P.G. erality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $20

Elk Cove 2016 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- David Hill 2016 Estate Gewürztraminer (Wil- Chehalem 2015 RR Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). 90 ley). For full review see page 11. 90 lamette Valley). Produced from vines a half 93 An exemplary rendition of the RR reserve abv: 13% Price: $19 century old, this is fermented completely dry yet bottling, this vintage is loaded with honey and retains a distinct floral/talc character. Although spice. Smooth, off-dry, complex and full bodied, Foris 2016 Pinot Gris (Southern Oregon). Alsatian in style it, exudes a bit of extra fruit flesh, it’s in perfect balance between sweetness and tang, 90 Bright and packed with succulent apple as one would expect of Oregon. It’s a lovely wine, mixing fruit and skin components with that suc- and pear fruit, this retains ample juicy acidity for with rose petal scents and light peach flavors. —P.G. culence. Lively and energetic, it’s delicious now but a perfectly balanced, fresh style. With its underly- abv: 14.3% Price: $20 will benefit from age. Drink through 2030.Cellar ing wet stone minerality, it offers exceptional value. Selection. —P.G. Best Buy. —P.G. Hyland 2016 Old Vine Gewürztraminer abv: 13% Price: $39 abv: 14% Price: $14 90 (McMinnville). Labeled ’Old Vine’ now that the vineyard it’s sourced from has passed 40 years Paetra 2016 Elwetritsche Riesling (Eola- Duck Pond 2016 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- of age, this dry, aromatic wine is varietally true 93 Amity Hills). The cuvée name Elwetritsche 89 ley). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. without seeming cloying. Green banana, grapefruit refers to a mythical beast from a town in the Pfalz abv: 13.9% Price: $14 and pineapple flavors feature prominently, along region of Germany. Totally dry and stainless steel- with a hint of lemon verbena. —P.G. fermented, it’s dominated by citrus rind flavors, Coelho 2016 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val- abv: 13.1% Price: $25 with traces of herb and minerality. With its excep- 88 ley). This solid, straightforward Pinot Gris tional texture that owes to 24 hours on the skins, it isstainless steel-fermented and finishes dry. The persists long into the finish.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. requisite apple and pear fruit flavors are present, RIESLING abv: 13% Price: $35 with hints of rock and a crisp, clean finish. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $20 Trisaetum 2016 Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry Trisaetum 2016 Coast Range Estate Riesling 96 Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). For full review see 93 (Yamhill-Carlton). Big, bold and fruity, this Walnut City WineWorks 2016 Pinot Gris (Wil- page 3. Editors’ Choice. seduces with Juicy Fruit gum, peach and papaya fla- 88 lamette Valley). This wine’s supersmooth abv: 13.2% Price: $32 vors. There’s a heft of ripeness and residual sweet- entry brings pear and apple flavors. It’s mouthfeel ness to the palate, yet it also shows good grip and is as creamy as butter, though there is no indication Trisaetum 2016 Coast Range Dry Riesling impressive length. —P.G. that it was put through . 94 (Yamhill-Carlton). All Trisaetum’s dry Ries- abv: 11.4% Price: $32 It’s easy-drinking, open and lush, with a touch of lings feel a notch riper in this warm year, to good almond on the finish. —P.G. effect. Meticulous blending of individual lots, some Trisaetum 2016 Estates Reserve Dry Riesling abv: 12.9% Price: $15 aged in oak, brings layers of complexity and helps 93 (Willamette Valley). One barrel of each of differentiate each cuvée. Concentrated pear, peach Trisaetum’s three estate vineyards contributed to Henry Estate 2016 Pinot Gris (Umpqua Val- and papaya flavors are on display here, with tangy this reserve bottling. It’s the most closed of their 87 ley). There’s a pleasant ripeness to this wine acidity and superb length and richness. It’s dry, to dry , requiring a hearty decant to show that softens any acidic edges. It’s fresh and vari- be sure, but also brilliantly fruity. Editors’ Choice. its stuffing: tart apple and citrus fruit, with streaks etal, with a dominant Asian pear flavor and hints of —P.G. of vanilla and spice. Or age it a few years longer to cucumber. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $32 allow more nuances to emerge. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $42 Trisaetum 2016 Ribbon Ridge Estate Ries- Primarius 2016 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This 94 ling (Ribbon Ridge). As characterful as the Trisaetum 2016 Wichmann Dundee Dry Ries- 86 wine opens with light aromas of freshly dry version but with lower alcohol and a slight hint 93 ling (Dundee Hills). The smallest of Trisae- sliced red apple, pineapple and spice. The palate of sweetness, this boasts powerful tangerine, quince tum’s estate vineyards, Wichman seems to improve brings broad fruit flavors that go down easy. —S.S. and Meyer lemon fruit. Its electric acidity keeps it with every vintage. This is beautifully detailed, abv: 13.68% Price: $14 vivid and beautifully balanced. Delicious now, it’s with hints of honey to its poached pear, peach and also cellar-worthy. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. apple flavors. Tangy acidity leaves a cinnamon-like Coelho 2016 Coelho Estates Pinot Gris (Wil- abv: 11% Price: $32 impression as it finishes dry but in no way austere. 85 lamette Valley). This is the most expen- —P.G. sive of Coelho’s three Pinot Gris offerings and also Trisaetum 2016 Wichmann Dundee Estate abv: 13% Price: $32 the least ripe. Bone-dry, sour and thin, it seems to 94 Riesling (Dundee Hills). More tart than improve when paired with fresh oysters. —P.G. sweet, this delicious wine is packed with lemon Airlie 2014 Riesling (Willamette Valley). The abv: 10.5% Price: $23 drop, candied pineapple and tangerine fruit. The 92 residual sugar in this bottling is half what acidity is in perfect proportion with the slightly it was in the last vintage, striking an ideal balance sweet palate, giving it a vivid mouthfeel that between sweetness and alcohol. Its lime, tangerine GEWÜRZTRAMINER extends into the finish and offers versatility for food and cantaloupe flavors show some sappy staying pairing. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. power. Drink now or age another decade. —P.G. Foris 2016 Dry Gewürztraminer (Rogue Val- abv: 11.5% Price: $32 abv: 12.4% Price: $16 91 ley). This outstanding wine should earn the somewhat difficult grape many new fans. It opens Airlie 2016 Old Vines Dry Riesling (Willa- Elk Cove 2016 Estate Riesling (Willamette up beautifully with ample aeration and is true to 93 mette Valley). Made from vines planted in 92 Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’ variety without giving the impression of cheap per- 1983, this is dry and textural, with crisp and com- Choice. fume, emphasizing spice over powdery scents and plex lemon, tangerine and orange peel flavors. It’s abv: 13% Price: $19

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Hyland 2016 Old Vine Riesling (McMinnville). bodied midpalate, and its juicy acidity is countered 92 From a 40-plus-year-old vineyard, this pep- by just enough sweetness. Drink now or cellar for up MOSCATO pery wine is dry, fruity and bold. It combines peach, to five years. —P.G. apple and orange fruit flavors with a lusciously full- abv: 12% Price: $24 Abacela 2016 Muscat (Umpqua Valley). This bodied mouthfeel that’s also layered and well struc- 88 off-dry wine balances its 33 g/L of residual tured. Drink now and over the next decade. Editors’ Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2016 Estate Riesling sugar with a fair amount of acidity. Its orange blos- Choice. —P.G. 89 (Eola-Amity Hills). Quite dry and flinty, this som aromas carry a slight medicinal note, and its abv: 12.9% Price: $25 medium-bodied wine mixes citrus flesh and floral orange fruit flavors are concentrated and full. Try qualities with persistence and texture. Chill it just it with Asian noodle dishes with some heat. —P.G. Airlie 2015 Beckenridge Riesling (Willamette below cellar temperature, and it will liven up a vari- abv: 11.4% Price: $18 91 Valley). Produced entirely from vines planted ety of mellow cheeses and poultry dishes. —P.G. in 1978, this drinks drier than its 13 g/L of residual abv: 12.8% Price: $25 Foris 2016 Moscato (Southern Oregon). This sugar would indicate. It’s juicy and loaded with 88 reliable, slightly fizzy, low alcohol wine apple, pear and tangerine fruit. A tangy taste of A Blooming Hill Vineyard 2016 Riesling makes an excellent apéritif or mixer. Off-dry but not orange baby aspirin lingers on the finish. —P.G. 88 (Chehalem Mountains). Fans of bright, off- excessively sweet, its scents and flavors recall ripe abv: 12.7% Price: $16 dry Riesling will enjoy this wine, which offers can- oranges, with a touch of pineapple. Use it for mimo- died citrus, ripe peach and powdered sugar flavors. sas or try with a splash of amaro. —P.G. Chehalem 2016 Three Vineyard Riesling (Wil- Although clocking in at 28 g/L of residual sugar, abv: 7% Price: $15 91 lamette Valley). Just slightly off-dry, this it retains enough acidity to pair nicely with spicy excellent bottle mixes its ripe lemon, orange and Asian fare or any fruit-based sauces. —P.G. Abiqua Wind 2014 Collier’s Early Muscat papaya fruit with breakfast tea-like flavors. Its acid- abv: 12% Price: $19 84 (Willamette Valley). This wine seems dis- ity is ample enough to keep the sweetness at bay, jointed from the initial aromas through the finish. making it a fine, all-purpose wine that should please Paetra 2016 K Riesling (Willamette Val- Its perfume, lemon polish and other mismatched a wide variety of palates. —P.G. 88 ley). One of several Rieslings from this components don’t indicate any improvement ahead. abv: 12.3% Price: $20 producer, this low-alcohol effort has some residual —P.G. sugar, though not enough to seem off-dry. It displays abv: 12% Price: $15 Brigadoon 2016 Riesling (Willamette Val- peach and melon fruit, with hints of rock candy. 90 ley). One quarter of this Riesling was aged Fermented in stainless steel with native yeast, it’s a in neutral barrels, the rest in stainless steel, finish- fine all-purpose white. —P.G. OTHER WHITE WINES ing at just 10 g/L of residual sugar to yield a round, abv: 11.5% Price: $20 racy palate of fresh herb, apple and melon flavors. A Abacela 2016 Albariño (Umpqua Valley). subtle note of butter and spice emerges as the finish Samuel Robert 2016 Perrydale Hills Vine- 92 This is an over-the-top vintage for this winds down. —P.G. 88 yard Dry Riesling (Willamette Valley). This wine; it’s simply crammed full with floral and fresh abv: 13.1% Price: $18 Riesling is tongue-twistingly dry, with an acid edge fruit flavors. Grapefruit, peach and melon notes are some might find sour. Yet, its flavorful profile gives in abundance, all juicy, ripe and resonant. It would Foris 2016 Riesling (Rogue Valley). This it appeal, evoking peach skin and lemon rind. The be hard to imagine a better or more versatile non- 90 fruity and forward wine delivers fresh and lingering, textural finish brings additional clarity to Chardonnay white at this price. Editors’ Choice. juicy orange flavors, along with light touches of the palate. —P.G. —P.G. citrus peel and pith. It strikes the perfect balance abv: 12.1% Price: $22 abv: 13.2% Price: $21 between fruit, acidity and sugar and is best when slightly chilled. Best Buy. —P.G. Troon 2016 Whole Grape Ferment Riesling Proteus 2015 Illusion Pinot Noir (Willamette abv: 13% Price: $15 88 (Applegate Valley). An by all 91 Valley). A lovely shade of tawny gold, this is definitions, this Riesling was made in the same way 100% Pinot Noir made as a dry white. It has plenty Paetra 2016 S Riesling (Eola-Amity Hills). as the producer’s reds: foot-crushed, destemmed, of body and delicious fruit that brings Chardonnay, 90 The “S” in this late harvest wine’s name native yeast-fermented and pressed into neutral Sauvignon Blanc and other white wine grapes to may stand for sweet or Spätlese, and its flavors are French oak barrels for three months. It’s gold in mind without quite duplicating their flavors. How- appropriately succulent and robust for the designa- color and vividly aromatic, evoking peaches, baked ever you describe it, it’s delicious and a fine value tion. Fresh and natural-tasting peach, melon and apples and cinnamon-sugar. Dry and cidery through besides. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. herb components from its core; the finish is clean the finish, it’s best consumed within the year. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $25 and lingering. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 10% Price: $25 South Stage 2015 Albariño (Rogue Valley). Samuel Robert 2016 Perrydale Hills Vine- 91 Eric Weisinger’s latest release for South Rain Dance 2016 Nicholas Vineyard Riesling 87 yard Off-Dry Riesling (Willamette Valley). Stage, this is impressive, with pungent citrus peel, 90 (Chehalem Mountains). This dry-tasting The winery offers this bottling as a counterpart to grapefruit and lemon scents and flavors. Honey- Riesling contains only 6.6 g/L of residual sugar. their dry Riesling, but there’s not much separation comb accents come into focus as it finishes, empha- Balanced and fresh peach, pear and tangerine fruit between the two. Its 10 g/L of residual sugar is cer- sizing its overall concentration and pushing it to the flavors combine on the palate for a full, round and tainly above threshhold, but with the searingly tart top of Oregon’s growing number of Albariños. Edi- tasty take on the grape. —P.G. acidity underneath, it barely makes a dent. Citrus tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 and apple flavors come through, but the sour lemon abv: 13% Price: $26 acidity is what dominates. —P.G. Sokol Blosser 2015 Riesling (Eola-Amity abv: 11.4% Price: $22 Kriselle 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Rogue Val- 90 Hills). This bright, stainless steel-fer- 90 ley). This effusive, expressive wine offers mented, off-dry Riesling is nicely detailed. Its sub- deep citrus, lemon drop, grapefruit and peach fla- stantial fruit flavors of golden apple, white peach vors. The fruit is further boosted with a powdered and pear are laced with hints of mint on the full-

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sugar note. Delicious already, it should drink well pie flavors, evoking fruit but also crust, with excel- Hamacher is a mix of saignée juice and Pinot Noir over the next three or four years. —P.G. lent concentration and length. Despite its modest blanc that wasn’t quite blanc enough—a happy abv: 13% Price: $23 alcohol, it’s a persistent, powerful rosé with enough accident, since it’s packed with raspberry confit and concentration to stand up to entrées as rich as roast plum jam flavors, with a hint of cranberry sauce. Chehalem 2016 Ridgecrest Vineyards Grüner pork or chicken. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Coming up on two years past fermentation, it’s a 88 Veltliner (Ribbon Ridge). Bursting with abv: 12% Price: $20 wine to drink now. —P.G. ripe apple scents and flavors, this is dry and ready abv: 13.2% Price: $20 to enjoy. Fermented in a mix of neutral barrel and Amalie Robert 2016 Pinot in Pink Rosé (Wil- stainless steel, it starts off sharp and assertive but 90 lamette Valley). This lovely rosé brings a Rain Dance 2016 Nicholas Vineyard Estate mellows into pleasing roundness on the midpalate. complex mix of citrus, strawberry and melon fla- 90 Rosé (Chehalem Mountains). A big improve- Drink now and over the next year or two while it’s vors, etched with vivid acidity. It’s poised, balanced ment from the previous vintage, this pretty, salmon- at its freshest. —P.G. and clean in style—a great example of how a seem- hued wine is packed with subtle but flavorful fruit. abv: 13.1% Price: $25 ingly simple wine can surprise with unexpected Tart citrus and strawberry notes underscored with depth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. crisp, clean acidity make it refreshing and a real Duck Pond 2016 Blanc Pinot Noir (Willa- abv: 13.4% Price: $20 winner. —P.G. 88 mette Valley). Another white Pinot Noir, abv: 13.5% Price: $22 this offers juicy apple flavors, evoking both pulp and Aubichon Cellars 2016 Vin Rosé de Pinot Gris skin. There’s a hint of grass that’s almost Sauvignon- 90 (Willamette Valley). This is a rich, spicy Adelsheim 2016 Rosé (Willamette Valley). like, but barrel fermentation and partial malolactic and lush-fruited rosé. Its palate-pleasing tangle of 89 This is nice, firm and dry, with lightly tangy has helped smooth any rough edges. —P.G. citrus, peach and light tropical fruit is fresh, for- rhubarb and strawberry fruit and touches of apri- abv: 12.9% Price: $20 ward and inviting. It spent five months in neutral cot. It’s solid through the midpalate, with a big, oak and is ready for immediate enjoyment. —P.G. blocky finish. —P.G. Golden Cluster 2014 Ode to Chuck David Hill abv: 14.2% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 88 Vineyards Old Vine Sémillon (Willamette Valley). From a vineyard planted 50 years ago, this Big Table Farm 2016 Laughing Pig Pinot Noir Abacela 2016 Grenache Rosé (Umpqua Val- effort comes across as forced. Unfined and unfil- 90 Rosé (Willamette Valley). Part saignée, part 88 ley). This tart and spicy rosé has a distinc- tered, its hands-off style of winemaking does not fermented specifically for rosé, this bone dry and tive peppery note. In the mouth, it’s crisp and fresh, do the old vine flavors any favors. Its partial new elegant wine offers a cascade of strawberry, rasp- with flavors suggesting crabapple and rhubarb. The oak aging also masks its textural details with butter berry and tangerine flavors. Its acidity punches dry finish offers ample fruit skin flavors as well. and coconut notes. Unique for sure, but somewhat through, lifting the palate and bringing its texture —P.G. fraught. —P.G. and length into focus. —P.G. abv: 11.4% Price: $18 abv: 12.3% Price: $65 abv: 14.3% Price: $32 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2016 Rosé Simple Machine 2015 Sauvignon Blanc Bryn Mawr Vineyards 2016 Rosé of Pinot 88 (Willamette Valley). Made from Pinot Noir 88 (Rogue Valley). Vinified in stainless steel 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). This wine’s lovely grapes, this drinks drier than the producer’s Whole and not put through malolactic fermentation, this rose petal and strawberry aromas, along with other Cluster rosé. A burst of Maraschino cherry flavor is a leesy, textural wine with plenty of minerality. tart and tangy wild berry notes, gather with appeal- leads into candied fruit notes, finishing clean and Its flavors conjure up wet concrete, stone and lemon ing weight and length. It’s quite dry and finishes on simple. It’s a good quaffer that should be drunk well and lime peel. —P.G. a lively dash of white pepper. —P.G. chilled. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 13.3% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $24

A Blooming Hill Vineyard 2016 Mingle (Che- Cayuse 2015 Edith Grenache Rosé (Walla Willamette Valley Vineyards 2016 Whole 87 halem Mountains). This smooth and easy- 90 Walla Valley). This wine is a very appealing 88 Cluster Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- drinking wine blends 60% Pinot Gris with equal pale bronze color with a light peach tinge. It brings ley). Bold and full-bodied, this tasty rosé mixes amounts of Chardonnay and Riesling. It’s light bountiful aromas of wet rock, mountain strawberry berry, cherry, orange and tangerine flavors with blush in color, with hints of honey on both the nose and herb that lead to a dry, broad, flavorful palate, ample acidity. It’s not particularly complex but and palate. A good, all-purpose white, it should be with mouthwatering fruit and stone flavors. —S.S. rather fruit-forward, fresh and delicious. —P.G. consumed over the next year or two. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $50 abv: 13.4% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $19 Duck Pond 2016 Hylo Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Coelho 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette Simple Machine 2013 Leverage (Rogue Val- 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see 87 Valley). One of the producer’s three differ- 87 ley). Made in the style of a southern Rhône page 11. ent rosés, this was made using the saignée method blend (half Viognier and one quarter each Marsanne abv: 13.5% Price: $20 (bleeding off juice from the red wine’s primary fer- and Roussanne), this is lightly lemony, with a bit mentation). It’s quite dry and crisp, with clean rhu- more fat in the middle. None of the three grapes Elizabeth Chambers 2016 Rosé of Pinot barb and herb flavors. Refreshing and simple, it’s a overpowers the others, but the flavors feel a bit 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). A pretty shade of good hot weather quaffer. —P.G. generic. Though fermented in stainless steel, it’s pale pink, this dry and spicy rosé has a boisterous abv: 14.5% Price: $20 gold in color and shows some hints of toast. —P.G. personality. Its watermelon and strawberry flavors abv: 13.8% Price: $28 come with a kick, showing real depth. Juicy acidity Coelho 2016 Coelho Estates Pinot Noir keeps it fresh and forward. —P.G. 86 Rosé (Willamette Valley). One of the pro- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 ducer’s three different rosés, this was also made ROSÉS using the saignée method. Its light strawberry and Ghost Hill 2015 Spirit of Pinot Noir Rosé watermelon fruit flavors come through, with ample Paetra 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé (Eola-Amity 90 (Yamhill-Carlton). The word scrumptious orange- and citrus-like acidity. —P.G. 91 Hills). This well-made wine offers cherry applies here. This rich and complex rosé from Eric abv: 14.2% Price: $23

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Samuel Robert 2016 Perrydale Hills Vine- Dion 2014 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Chehalem ful wine is loaded with gravitas—big and tannic, 86 yard Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette Valley). 94 Mountains). For full review see page 4. Edi- yet also offering elegance and detail. The mix of Produced from bled-off Pinot Noir juice, this is a tors’ Choice. fruit, spice, barrel and tannin components is beau- robust, high alcohol rosé. It was put through partial abv: 14.3% Price: $50 tifully orchestrated, recalling boysenberry, black malolactic fermentation and offers candy straw- cherry, toasted nuts, pepper and chocolate. With berry flavors up front, without much depth. —P.G. Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2014 Zéphirine its almost-neverending finish, it should continue to abv: 14% Price: $25 94 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This reserve- improve through 2028. Cellar Selection. —P.G. level wine from the Roserock vineyard, Domaine abv: 13.9% Price: $105 Sokol Blosser 2016 Estate Cuvée Rosé of Drouhin’s recent Eola-Amity Hills planting, is com- 86 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Sharp pine needle pelling. Dense and fragrant, it boasts a beguiling mix Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2015 Zéphirine and tart berry scents dominate the nose. Low alco- of rose, cocoa powder and Asian spice, like a magic 93 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Still quite hol and pungent flavors emphasize the acidity, leav- carpet ride of flavor. A finishing note of chocolate- young and showing some grapey fruit flavors, this ing a puckery mouthfeel with little impression of covered orange peel is the pièce de résistance. Edi- second vintage release is bursting with purple fruit fruit. Best with mild cheeses and salted nuts. —P.G. tors’ Choice. —P.G. and chocolate malt flavors. Streaks of cola and a min- abv: 12% Price: $22 abv: 14.1% Price: $60 eral-drenched finish add depth and texture. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $60 Coelho 2016 Delfina Vineyard Pinot Noir Patricia Green Cellars 2015 Freedom Hill 85 Rosé (McMinnville). Pale copper in color, 94 Vineyard Coury Clone Pinot Noir (Willamette Fullerton 2015 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir this was initially pressed for a sparkling wine pro- Valley). Black cherry and cola flavors burst from the 93 (McMinnville). From the biodynamically gram before making a rosé. Its flavors are thin and glass in this wine. Its fruit core has a candied, lolli- farmed Momtazi vineyard, this adds layers of herb, underripe, with little red fruit, delivering instead pop-like character, but that’s not to suggest that it’s pine, compost and forest floor components. Fruit is skin characteristics and tannins. —P.G. anything but complex, deep and utterly delicious. in the mix but is less prominent, giving way to those abv: 14.3% Price: $28 The delicate finish extends the pleasure for minutes complex, earth-driven flavors, with a touch of cit- on end. —P.G. rus. It seems to give you more the more you give it abv: 14.3% Price: $75 your full attention. —P.G. PINOT NOIR abv: 14.2% Price: $60 Trisaetum 2014 Family Reserve MMXIV Patricia Green Cellars 2015 Estate Vineyard 94 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). With its dis- Le Cadeau 2015 Merci Reserve Pinot Noir 96 Etzel Block Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). For tinctive black label, this reserve is set apart from 93 (Chehalem Mountains). This well-crafted full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice. the winery’s expanding lineup of Pinots. It shows reserve boasts a solid core of blueberry and black abv: 14.5% Price: $60 more oak-derived flavors, along with ripe plum and cherry fruit, thickly accented with dark chocolate cherry fruit. Streaks of espresso, vanilla and choco- notes. Produced from heritage (Calera, Swan and Patricia Green Cellars 2015 Notorious Pinot late come through, suggesting it will only improve Mt. Eden) clones, it’s textural and dense, with dark 95 Noir (Willamette Valley). This reserve-level with a hearty decant or additional bottle age. Drink char, espresso and black licorice flavors. —P.G. selection was aged in 100% new French oak and now through the mid-2020s. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 sports a green label that distinguishes it from the abv: 13.5% Price: $100 dozen or so other Pinots in the winery’s portfolio. Nicolas-Jay 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette It’s dense and deeply flavored, its black fruit sup- Aberrant Cellars 2014 Chehalem Mountain 93 Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ ported by an assortment of highlights—cola, coffee 93 Vineyard Block B3 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Che- Choice. and moist earth most prominent. There’s a faint halem Mountains). For full review see page 5. Edi- abv: 13% Price: $65 hint of barnyard funk, adding yet another element tors’ Choice. to a most impressive effort. Drink now and over the abv: 13.8% Price: $50 Patricia Green Cellars 2015 Freedom Hill Vine- next half decade. —P.G. 93 yard Dijon 115 Clone Pinot Noir (Willamette abv: 14.4% Price: $85 Adelsheim 2014 Calkins Lane Vineyard Valley). This was half whole cluster-fermented and 93 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Plum neatly incorporates hints of earth and bark into its Bergström 2015 Bergström Vineyard Pinot and cherry fruit notes combine here, feeling con- tart cranberry and pie cherry core. Its verticality 94 Noir (Dundee Hills). Sourced from the centrated through the midpalate. Although aged and tannic power suggest it will age quite nicely estate’s original 1999 plantings, this is a chewy, in one quarter new oak, the barrel character has through the late 2020s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. majestic, earthy and deeply dark wine. Its black little impact on the flavor. It remains a bit tight and abv: 14.5% Price: $48 fruit is ribbed wtih iron, licorice, coffee and graph- should continue to improve with bottle age. Drink ite notes and framed by earthy tannins that lend 2019–2031. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Patricia Green Cellars 2015 Freedom Hill Vine- texture. It drinks bigger than its listed alcohol abv: 13.5% Price: $68 93 yard Pommard Clone Pinot Noir (Willamette would suggest. —P.G. Valley). There are multiple Freedom Hill selections abv: 13.7% Price: $95 Adelsheim 2014 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot in this winery’s 2015 lineup, but the Pommard 93 Noir (Dundee Hills). Winderlea is the most clone bottling expresses more of the site’s brambly Bergström 2015 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir limited and most expensive of the winery’s single wildness along with its lusciously fruity raspberry 94 (Yamhill-Carlton). This single vineyard vineyard series. This vintage remains tight and flavors. Texture and length elevates it above much wine is a blend of six separate blocks, each planted compact—a youthful purple in color, with fruit fla- of the competition. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. to a different clone. It deftly combines savory herb vors of plum and sour cherry. Subtle layers unfold abv: 14.6% Price: $48 flavors with ripe Bing cherry fruit. The tannins are as it breathes, adding citrus peel, minerality and a polished, textured and balanced, leading into a long touch of malt as well. —P.G. Proteus 2015 Manisa Jo Vineyard Pinot Noir finish that leaves a final impression of composted abv: 13.5% Price: $95 93 (Willamette Valley). Like the winery’s other earth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Pinot Noir, this seems way underpriced for the abv: 13.9% Price: $62 Big Table Farm 2015 Earth Pinot Noir (Wil- quality. Its subtle layers of cherry and plum are 93 lamette Valley). This complex and power- enhanced with baking spice, toasted coconut and

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caramel highlights. It can easily stand beside wines and length. It spent 14 months in 30% new French flavor, and as is true of all this winery’s offerings, costing twice as much. Drink now through 2028. oak. Beginning with the 2015 vintage, it will have the overall balance is impeccable. —P.G. Cellar Selection. —P.G. national distribution. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $42 abv: 13.8% Price: $28 abv: 14.4% Price: $45 Penner-Ash 2015 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir Styring 2013 Wit Reserve Estate Pinot Noir Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2015 Dundee Hills 92 (Yamhill-Carlton). For full review see page 8. 93 (Ribbon Ridge). The winery’s top wine in a 92 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This delicious abv: 13.7% Price: $65 tough vintage, just a single barrel of this was made. wine shows focused black cherry, cola, cream soda It delivers an extra dose of extract, with the same and baking spice flavors. It’s perfectly balanced, Proteus 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). characteristic pine needle and raspberry flavors with all components in proportion and settled 92 This dense and complex wine far exceeds its found in the estate bottling. It’s potent and power- nicely together. Drink now through 2022. —P.G. modest price point. Its deep plum and cherry flavors ful, with the fruit and alcohol in perfect balance. It abv: 14.1% Price: $45 are inscribed with dark veins of graphite, licorice winds down with a citrusy finish. —P.G. and charred wood. It finishes long and yet remains abv: 14.3% Price: $65 Fairsing 2015 Sullivan Pinot Noir (Yamhill- subtle, hinting at the dark flavors rather than slath- 92 Carlton). With a riper profile than the 2014, ering them on excessively. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Adelsheim 2014 Boulder Bluff Vineyard Pinot this vintage of this wine is instantly delicious and abv: 13.9% Price: $25 92 Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This delivers bursting with sweet cherry fruit. Full flavored and berry flavors, with a touch of white pepper and cit- fruity, it finishes on lasting milk chocolate, sweet Résonance 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- rus. There’s a hint of balsa wood on the nose and an herb and cola notes. —P.G. 92 ley). Maison Louis Jadot’s Willamette Val- intriguing tart mineral note on the palate. It spent abv: 14.2% Price: $52 ley project continues to bear fruit and has increased 10 months in 27% new French oak barrels. —P.G. the production of this entry-level cuvée. A lovely, abv: 13.5% Price: $68 Fullerton 2015 Bella Vida Vineyard Pinot Noir chunky mix of purple and black fruit, it’s beautifully 92 (Dundee Hills). This top tier effort captures proportioned, with plenty of power, lacking only the Adelsheim 2014 Ribbon Springs Vineyard all the most distinctive characteristics of good Ore- depth of the older estate vines. It finishes on a lacy 92 Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This is deliciously gon Pinot Noir. Black cherry fruit, a liberal dash of note of minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. deep, with ripe raspberry, blackberry and black cola, a touch of sassafras and a dusting of baking abv: 13.5% Price: $45 cherry fruit in abundance. It retains a tart, tangy spice combine in a burst of flavor. Delicious already, bite of acidity as well, and a touch of sweet barrel it will drink well for another half decade or longer. Styring 2013 Estate Pinot Noir (Ribbon toast from aging in 30% new French oak. —P.G. —P.G. 92 Ridge). Styring releases their wines with abv: 13% Price: $68 abv: 14.3% Price: $65 plenty of bottle age and doesn’t shy from high alco- hol. The level of ripeness in this bottling is not for Bergström 2015 Le Pré du Col Vineyard Pinot Fullerton 2015 Lichtenwalter Vineyard Pinot everyone, veering more toward Zin-like power than 92 Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Still young, stiff and 92 Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This vineyard desig- Pinot Noir elegance. It’s lushly aromatic, with dom- unyielding, this mixes stem and bitter herb flavors nate made from 777 clone Pinot Noir was fermented inant pine needle and raspberry extract flavors. A with brambly blackberry fruit. Streaks of espresso in single-use barrels and aged in neutral wood. It’s dense, concentrated and pungent wine with a spicy and dark chocolate emerge on the finish. It’s well- graceful, seductive and loaded with baking spice, top note. —P.G. balanced, detailed and layered, with a dominant cinnamon toast and mocha highlights. It’s drinking abv: 14.7% Price: $45 savory side. —P.G. beautifully at the moment, so no need to wait. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 abv: 13.9% Price: $55 Trisaetum 2015 Estates Reserve Pinot Noir 92 (Willamette Valley). This textural bar- Bergström 2015 Silice Pinot Noir (Chehalem Le Cadeau 2015 Équinoxe Reserve Pinot Noir rel selection is loaded with mineral highlights. Its 92 Mountains). Formerly the deLancellotti 92 (Chehalem Mountains). This reserve-level pretty cherry fruit is lightly touched with cola and vineyard, Silice brings fresh, supple flavors of bright wine is a barrel selection from a particular block of has a pleasing, creamy finish. —P.G. raspberry and cherry fruit. A distinctive ashy stone the vineyard. It’s aromatic, with wet hay, raspberry abv: 13.7% Price: $69 note forms the bassline, holding the finish firm. It and cherry scents. The flavors have a lightly spicy should benefit from another year of bottle age. Or lift, punching through with a chipotle pepper-like Aberrant Cellars 2015 Confero Pinot Noir (Wil- give it a long decant to enjoy now. —P.G. edge but finishing on ripe fruit. Best through 2022. 91 lamette Valley). For full review see page 8. abv: 13.8% Price: $70 —P.G. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.4% Price: $80 abv: 13.9% Price: $29 Bergström 2015 Temperance Hill Vineyard 92 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This cool, late- Nicolas-Jay 2015 Bishop Creek Pinot Noir Aberrant Cellars 2014 Carpe Noctum Pinot ripening site brings a complex, aromatic mix of sage, 92 (Yamhill-Carlton). Sourced entirely from 91 Noir (Willamette Valley). This supple and fennel, mountain berry and other savory notes. the estate vineyard and aged in a combination ofnew succulent wine mixes red and blue fruit with a With its innate austerity and underlying minerality and neutral French oak, this is spicy and focused. persistent peppery note. The winery’s top offering, that lingers with a resonant finish, it’s the type of Its tart cranberry and raspberry fruit seems to fade it’s a barrel selection from five organically-farmed wine you might wish to revisit in a decade or two. a bit past the midpalate, but that may well change vineyards, including Chehalem Mountain vineyard. —P.G. with another year or two of bottle age. —P.G. Aged for 17 months in half new French oak barrels, abv: 13.3% Price: $60 abv: 13% Price: $100 it fades gracefully with a touch of char. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $60 David Hill 2014 Old Vine Pinot Noir (Wil- Patricia Green Cellars 2015 Estate Vineyard 92 lamette Valley). From dry-farmed, own- 92 Old Vine Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). From Adelsheim 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- rooted vines planted in 1965 by Charles Coury, this vines planted in 1984 and 1990, this offers subtle, 91 ley). Smooth as silk, this widely-available selection is remarkably fresh and forward. Lush strawberry, raspberry and cherry flavors, accented cuvée brings ripe strawberry, cherry and dark strawberry and black cherry flavors comingle, with with refreshing minerality. Its acidity a faint lime chocolate flavors into play. Aged for 10 months in chocolaty tannins and exceptional texture, detail

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 one quarter new French oak barrels, it’s seamlessly sugar, coffee, caramel and cola streaks. It was aged Authentique 2014 The Corridor Pinot Noir melded and shows both power and grace. —P.G. in 10% new French oak. —P.G. 90 (Eola-Amity Hills). The dark label and enig- abv: 13.5% Price: $32 abv: 13.5% Price: $42 matic name give it a spooky air, but this wine mer- its your attention. Plum and black cherry flavors Bergström 2015 Gregory Ranch Pinot Noir Ghost Hill 2014 Prospector’s Reserve Pinot combine with streaks of cola and red licorice. It’s 91 (Yamhill-Carlton). This wine’s peppery 91 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Sourced from the tasty, smooth and ready for drinking now through details act as counterpoint to its well-defined rasp- estate’s Bayliss-Bower vineyard, this reserve is the early 2020s. —P.G. berry and cherry flavors. Streaks of toast and graph- a barrel selection that saw a touch more new oak abv: 13.9% Price: $38 ite add to the layers, suggesting further complexity (17%) than the regular bottling. It’s tannic and a bit will develop with another year or two in bottle. chewy, with lush black cherry fruit. Subtle cola and Bergström 2015 Cumberland Reserve Pinot —P.G. graphite suggestions add complexity. —P.G. 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). Still knitting itself abv: 13.2% Price: $62 abv: 13.5% Price: $55 together, this entry-level cuvée from Bergström brings fresh raspberry fruit flavors front and center. Bergström 2015 Winery Block Pinot Noir Hyland 2015 Dijon 115 Pinot Noir (McMin- There are toasty highlights as well, nicely framing 91 (Chehalem Mountains). This limited cuvée 91 nville). This puts the spotlight on a single the finish, promising further development in bottle is made from the smallest block at the estate vine- Dijon clone and delivers polished cherry fruit. It fol- after 2018. —P.G. yard. Quite dry in mouthfeel, it has dehydrated lows through with hints of graphite and the under- abv: 13.6% Price: $42 mushroom scents and flavors, along with a steely lying minerality that is characteristic of this AVA. minerality. Although its tart berry fruit is in the The wine is young and should be decanted, having Brigadoon 2015 Taproot Pinot Noir (Willa- background, it shows an overall well-wrought and spent just nine months in barrel prior to bottling. 90 mette Valley). This barrel selection has a balanced set of flavors. —P.G. —P.G. bit more volume and depth than its sibling, Lylee. abv: 13.2% Price: $75 abv: 14.2% Price: $65 Its tart raspberry fruit leads into drying tannins that are dappled with dried Italian herb notes. Bergström 2014 Cumberland Reserve Pinot King Estate 2014 Bradshaw Vineyard Pinot —P.G. 91 Noir (Willamette Valley). Blended from a 91 Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see abv: 13.9% Price: $40 range of vineyards, this tasty, toasty wine cloaks page 9. its raspberry fruit in chocolate malt-like flavor. Its abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Chehalem 2015 Corral Creek Vineyards Pinot components are clearly defined, fresh and appeal- 90 Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This aromatic ing, and it showcases the sophisticated house style Sokol Blosser 2014 Goosepen Block Pinot Noir wine offers rich fruit and floral scents. It’s tart and in a more widely-distributed, less expensive offer- 91 (Dundee Hills). Always a top wine in this spicy on the palate, with bright red fruit. Although ing. —P.G. winery’s broad portfolio of estate Pinot Noirs, this aged in 42% new and 33% one-year barrels, oak- abv: 13.6% Price: $42 is spicy and lightly peppery, with a mix of bitter derived flavors aren’t evident. Still, it’s a young herb, cranberry and blackberry flavors and bright, wine pulling itself together. —P.G. Dois Irmãos 2015 Two Brothers’ Private Selec- supporting acidity. Its pleasing mineral backdrop abv: 13.7% Price: $50 91 tion Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This provides an easy landing for the extended finish. private selection is nicely structured, pitting clean Drink 2022 to 2030 for maximum enjoyment. Cel- Dois Irmãos 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette raspberry fruit against tight tannins. Those strong lar Selection. —P.G. 90 Valley). Plum, black cherry and mocha cfla- components are accented with touches of cola and abv: 14.5% Price: $80 vors ombine in this smooth, well-integrated wine. earth and a subtle undercurrent of barrel toast. It must have seen some time in new oak, and the —P.G. Timothy Malone 2015 Chehalem Mountains pretty baking spice accents add length and pleasure abv: 13.8% Price: $45 91 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). A clev- to the finish. —P.G. erly threaded mix of black cherry extract, cola, abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Elizabeth Chambers 2014 Falcon Glen Vine- brown sugar and baking spice notes, with a dash of 91 yard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Displaying typ- espresso, this is undeniably flavor-packed. It’s big Fairsing 2015 Dardis Pinot Noir (Yamhill- ical McMinnville AVA subtlety, this frames its tight but remains balanced and nuanced, with all compo- 90 Carlton). This blends estate-grown Wäden- raspberry fruit with mineral and iron ore details. nents in proportion. It’s drinking well now, so don’t swil and Dijon 115 clones into a briary, open and Aging in neutral oak has helped soften the sharp delay. —P.G. forward expression that accents its core of cherry edges a bit, without flavoring the wine. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $37 fruit with a dash of cola. It lightens up as it finishes abv: 13.5% Price: $48 but remains nicely balanced and layered, with sub- Trisaetum 2015 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir tle hints of chicken stock. —P.G. Elk Cove 2015 Clay Court Pinot Noir (Chehalem 91 (Willamette Valley). This solid, spicy and abv: 14% Price: $52 91 Mountains). For full review see page 9. somewhat chewy Pinot is the most widely-available abv: 13.5% Price: $60 from the Trisaetum lineup. Hints of golden raisin, Fairsing 2015 Fairsing Vineyard Pinot Noir fig and plum lead into a smooth, chocolatey finish. 90 (Yamhill-Carlton). This wine’s strawberry Elk Cove 2015 Mount Richmond Pinot Noir —P.G. and raspberry flavors carry a slightly funky bou- 91 (Yamhill-Carlton). For full review see page 9. abv: 13.6% Price: $36 quet, but call it a feature, not a flaw. It has salted Cellar Selection. caramel notes from aging for nine months in 30% abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Authentique 2014 Coats & Whitney Vine- new French oak, and it’s creamy and focused on the 90 yard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Light palate, finishing on a hint of cola. —P.G. Ghost Hill 2014 Bayliss-Bower Vineyard Pinot berry fruit flavors show the fine side of the grape in abv: 14.4% Price: $46 91 Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This substantial, this wine, bolstered by tea-like tannins. It’s nicely powerfully styled Pinot Noir is layered with tart, balanced and light in body but has enough muscle to Fullerton 2015 Croft Vineyard Pinot Noir punchy red fruit. That rich core is laced with brown accompany light cuts of lamb or pork. —P.G. 90 (Willamette Valley). A whiff of pine needle abv: 13.7% Price: $48 runs through this wine, accenting its tight and trim red berry fruit. It’s a mix of three clones that were

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aged in one quarter new French oak, which brings Sokol Blosser 2014 Big Tree Block Pinot Noir King Estate 2014 Nicholas Vineyard Pinot notes of vanilla and toast to its smooth finish. —P.G. 90 (Dundee Hills). This well built wine boasts 89 Noir (Willamette Valley). Part of the limited abv: 13.9% Price: $45 tart cherry fruit and citrusy acidity. That lemony edition Vineyard Designate series, this is a medium- character carries through the finish, adding lift and bodied, rather blocky wine. It delivers cherry fruit Fullerton 2015 Fir Crest Vineyard Pinot Noir mouth-cleansing astringency. —P.G. and a touch of chocolate from aging a year in 30% 90 (Yamhill-Carlton). Smooth, light and quite abv: 14% Price: $70 new French oak but doesn’t have the complexity of tasty, this is ready to drink. Its cocoa and pretty some of the other wines in this series. —P.G. cherry flavors combine gracefully. Despite includ- Timothy Malone 2015 Dundee Hills Pinot abv: 14% Price: $55 ing one third whole clusters in the fermentation, 90 Noir (Dundee Hills). Consistent with many there’s none of the aggressive stemminess that other Timothy Malone Pinots, this artfully melds Primarius 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wil- sometimes can occur. Drink soon while the fresh- black cherry fruit with a broad streak of cola and 89 lamette Valley). Light in color, this wine ness remains. —P.G. refreshing minerality. There’s a touch of black lico- brings pleasing, pure aromas of peppermint, straw- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 rice and impressive balance throughout. —P.G. berry, sarsaparilla and cherry. The flavors are light, abv: 14.3% Price: $37 elegant and juicy, providing a lot of appeal. —S.S. Hyland 2015 Wädenswil Pinot Noir (McMin- abv: 13.8% Price: $22 90 nville). From a block planted in 1979, this is Amalie Robert 2012 The Uncarved Block sweetly fruity, with strawberry and raspberry pre- 89 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). At five years Roco 2015 Gravel Road Pinot Noir (Wil- serve flavors. Ripe as it is, it avoids flabbiness with old, this is soft and supple, with well-integrated 89 lamette Valley). Produced from a mix of a focused finish that stays clean and on point. —P.G. plum, cherry, spice and cola components. It’s clones and vineyard sources, this is a chewy, sub- abv: 14.3% Price: $65 smooth and seamless and should be drunk soon. stantial wine, with dark fruit flavors of plum and —P.G. black cherry. Light suggestions of coffee, gravel and King Estate 2014 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.3% Price: $30 iron also factor in. It’s a rugged, earthy, tannic wine 90 (McMinnville). This well known vineyard that will be best decanted. —P.G. captures the light, elegant and downright pretty Authentique 2014 Keeler Estate Vineyard abv: 14% Price: $30 nature of the Pinot Noir grape. Plum, raspberry and 89 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). From a biody- Bing cherry flavors combine, with fresh acidity add- namically-farmed vineyard, this frames its cola and Samuel Robert 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wil- ing some citrus highlights. —P.G. black cherry flavors with gravelly minerality The 89 lamette Valley). Not to be confused with abv: 13.5% Price: $55 dark, earthy components come up through the fin- the winery’s Vintner’s Reserve, this has a limited ish, and the tannins have a slightly herbal edge from two-barrel production and is priced lower. While King Estate 2014 Pfeiffer Vineyards Pinot 10% whole-cluster fermentation. —P.G. cranberry and citrus flavors feature in both, this 90 Noir (Willamette Valley). This is part of the abv: 13.8% Price: $55 one has a pretty, lingering chocolate note, suggest- limited edition Vineyard Designate series. Plum and ing extended aging in oak. —P.G. sour cherry fruit flavors claim center stage here, Brigadoon 2015 Lylee Pinot Noir (Willamette abv: 13.5% Price: $39 with sweet baking spice accents and a light touch 89 Valley). A fine value, this tart young wine of caramel from a year of aging in 30% new French opens with cranberry, raspberry and cocoa flavors. Samuel Robert 2015 Vintner’s Reserve Pinot oak. —P.G. It’s graceful, flavorful and already drinking well but 89 Noir (Willamette Valley). This wine is lively abv: 13.5% Price: $55 should continue to give pleasure over the next five and spicy, with cranberry and cherry flavors, juicy years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. acidity and a strong impression of citrus. The tan- Roco 2015 Marsh Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir abv: 13.9% Price: $23 nins are firm and balanced, with a hint of stem 90 (Yamhill-Carlton). This tightly wound wine showing through the finish. —P.G. offers firm purple fruit flavors, along with a touch of Chehalem 2015 Ridgecrest Vineyards Pinot abv: 13.8% Price: $15 sweet berries. There’s ample acidity and a slightly 89 Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This wine’s tangy chalky finish. —P.G. raspberry and cherry fruit is front and center, with Schultz 2014 Freedom Stand Sure Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $50 a vein of rich chocolate underneath. Dominated by 89 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). For full review acidity now, with oak and tannin components not see page 13. Roco 2015 The Stalker Pinot Noir (Willa- fully integrated, it clearly needs more time to pull abv: 13.5% Price: $29 90 mette Valley). Not a mere whole-cluster itself together and should reward further bottle age. wine, the Stalker is made by drying the stalks sepa- —P.G. Sokol Blosser 2014 Orchard Block Pinot Noir rately and adding them to whole berries. It’s slightly abv: 14.3% Price: $50 89 (Dundee Hills). Consistent with the previ- chalky as a result, with a green edge to the tannins ous vintage, this combines tart citrus with wild and green tea flavors. Black cherry, espresso and Coelho 2015 Paciência Coelho Estate Vine- berry and cranberry fruit. Its tannins are stiff and cacao components also factor in. Give it another 89 yard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Aged not yet fully integrated, and the finish evokes a couple of years and drink after 2020. —P.G. in 30% new French oak, this has brown sugar, cola dusting of dried herbes de Provence. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $50 and root beer notes to back up its black cherry fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 Coelho has shaken up its lineup, made some clear Siduri 2015 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). improvements and kept prices in line. Drink now or Spindrift Cellars 2014 Barrel Select Pinot 90 California-based Siduri cellared and bot- through the early 2020s. —P.G. 89 Noir (Willamette Valley). This medium- tled this wine, which was vinified in Oregon. It’s a abv: 14.2% Price: $45 bodied wine is already drinking optimally, with a forward, fruity, full-flavored effort, with just enough core of red fruit streaked with cola, earth, graphite acidity to support its plush fruit, and it seems to Fullerton 2015 Five Faces Pinot Noir (Willa- and citrus notes. Only four barrels were produced. lighten up as it lingers. Overall an aimiable, drink- 89 mette Valley). This well-made blend aged —P.G. able style, with fresh strawbery and raspberry hard in 20% new French oak showcases red fruit, with abv: 13.5% Price: $30 candy flavors. —P.G. cracker, coffee and earth suggestions. A hint of alco- abv: 14.2% Price: $36 holic heat comes through on the finish. —P.G. Walnut City WineWorks 2014 Carlton Hill abv: 13.7% Price: $33 89 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 opens with juicy pomegranate and cherry notes of savory herb, black cherry and molasses flavors. short of the other Dundee Hills cuvées this vintage. before bourbon barrel scents take hold. The mid- —P.G. It starts out thin, with dilute fruit, cola and mineral palate seems to fade, then the flavors return on the abv: 13.5% Price: $20 notes. With hours of breathing time, it begins to fill finish. Give it another year or two in bottle to pull out in the middle, so aggressive decanting is recom- itself together. —P.G. Henry Estate 2015 Pinot Noir (Umpqua Val- mended. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $40 88 ley). This is focused but soft in the mouth, abv: 14.3% Price: $45 making it approachable right now. It’s balanced, Walnut City WineWorks 2014 La Cantera forward, easy-drinking and mature-tasting, its Twill 2014 Stormy Morning Vineyard Pinot 89 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). red fruit highlighted with candied orange peel and 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). This medium- This wine’s black cherry fruit, backed by tart acid- toast. —P.G. bodied wine with lightly-ripened red berry fruit ity and ample tannins, quickly emerges. Cola and abv: 13.5% Price: $20 flavors is a great showing for the winery’s regular brown spice hints reflect its 15 months aging in 15% bottling. Light touches of herb, cola and earth carry new French oak, yet it fades on the midpalate as if Machine Breaker 2014 We The People Pinot through the finish. —P.G. recently bottled. As with the Carlton Hill bottling, 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). This wine’s plum abv: 13.4% Price: $34 this should benefit from an additional year or two. and Bing cherry flavors glide smoothly through the —P.G. midpalate with moderate density. It was sourced Chehalem 2015 Stoller Vineyards Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $40 from own-rooted vines from a half dozen vineyards, 87 (Dundee Hills). In comparison with other notably Temperance Hill and Sunnyside. —P.G. new releases from the winery, this seems dilute. Walnut City WineWorks 2014 Reserve Pinot abv: 13.1% Price: $23 With its watery raspberry fruit and astringent acid- 89 Noir (Willamette Valley). This wine’s ity, it lacks the stuffing to handle the 55% new oak dried flower and dark chocolate aromas emerge Sokol Blosser 2015 Evolution Pinot Noir it was aged in, making the barrel flavors apparent. in the glass, with brambly berry notes in tow. A 88 (Willamette Valley). This affordably priced More time in the bottle may help. —P.G. well-structured effort, it tastes of tart raspberry Pinot Noir is part of the winery’s popular Evolution abv: 12.5% Price: $50 and cherry fruit with darker streaks of anise and series. It’s smooth and forward, with pretty red fruit espresso. The tannins, though proportionate, are a supported by juicy orange flavor. It has the tannin Coelho 2015 Atração Pinot Noir (Willamette touch green. —P.G. and stuffing to work well with roast poultry or as a 87 Valley). This light-fruited wine is the most abv: 13.4% Price: $30 stand-alone fireside sipping wine. —P.G. widely available of the winery’s Pinots. Its cherry abv: 14% Price: $20 and orange candy flavors give it a pleasant, albeit Willamette Valley Vineyards 2016 Whole superficial, entry. Don’t expect complexity, but for 89 Cluster Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Sokol Blosser 2014 Old Vineyard Block Pinot a light and accessible taste of the Willamette Valley, This juicy, fruity Beaujolais-style wine is instantly 88 Noir (Dundee Hills). From old vines grafted it’s a fair value. —P.G. appealing. Its grape, raspberry and cherry flavors to new rootstock, this wine was aged in 40% new abv: 13.5% Price: $20 are highlighted with orange peel scents. It’s defi- French oak and tastes of wild berries, with a thin nitely made to be drunk young. —P.G. mouthfeel, ample acidity and a short finish. —P.G. Dion 2015 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 87 This pleasant, easy-drinking wine from five different Pinot Noir clones mixes citrus and berry Chehalem 2014 Statement Pinot Noir (Rib- Sokol Blosser 2014 Thistle Vineyard Pinot flavors. It was aged in 30% new oak and is nicely 88 bon Ridge). Only occasionally produced, 88 Noir (Dundee Hills). This leads with tart balanced, with firm acidity. —P.G. this reserve-level wine is a bit of a mystery in this cranberry fruit and sharp details of dried rosemary. abv: 14.2% Price: $25 new vintage. It’s tart and shy, its black fruit laced It’s focused and herbal, which may be off-putting with assertive acidity and its finish excessively for anyone seeking a fruit-forward style. But give it Hyland 2015 Pinot Noir (McMinnville). This is astringent. —P.G. another couple of years of bottle age and see what 87 a stiff and herbal wine without much charm, abv: 14.2% Price: $99 develops. —P.G. even after considerable breathing time. Rubbery abv: 14% Price: $38 scents, bitter tannins and a chicken stock note Coelho 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). obscure its tart berry and black cherry fruit. —P.G. 88 The winery calls this their “Bunny Cuvée” Sokol Blosser 2014 Twelve Row Block Pinot abv: 14.1% Price: $40 due to the rabbit on the label. It’s well made, of fair 88 Noir (Dundee Hills). This is light to the point value, with sharp details. Cranberry and raspberry of feeling thin. It emphasizes clean, tangy raspberry Primarius 2015 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This is fruit flavors punch through with a gentle streak of flavors, with a touch of tangerine-like acidity and a 87 pale in color, with light aromas and straw- cola. The finish comes with a hint of composted cleansing mineral note that carries through the fin- berry, spice and herb notes. The fruit flavors are earth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ish. It lacks concentration and shows no evidence of also restrained, seeming faint but still bringing abv: 13.5% Price: $20 its aging in 50% new French oak. —P.G. appeal. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $55 abv: 13.71% Price: $17 Coelho 2014 Paciência Coelho Estate Vine- 88 yard Reserva Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Spindrift Cellars 2014 BoVine Vineyard Pinot Ransom 2013 Selection Pinot Noir (Eola- Textural to the point of being a bit chewy, this brings 88 Noir (Willamette Valley). Light root beer, 87 Amity Hills). This late release sourced from composted earth accents and brambly berry fruit. A cherry cola and pine needle flavors combine here several vineyards dating back to the 1970s and streak of cola and some vanilla notes emerge on the over a mineral baseline that gives it an enjoyable, 1980s is thin on the palate, with tart plum, herb, finish. Drink now and over the next five years. —P.G. easy-drinking style. It finishes with a hint of milk orange peel and of pineapple hints. Low alcohol abv: 13.5% Price: $78 chocolate. —P.G. reflects the cool vintage. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $28 abv: 12.6% Price: $27 Fullerton 2015 Three Otters Pinot Noir 88 (Willamette Valley). The winery’s value Timothy Malone 2015 La Colina Vineyard Samuel Robert 2015 Willamette Valley Cuveé bottling, this was vinified in a mix of neutral oak 88 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Just 87 (sic) Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This and stainless steel. Enjoy soon for its pretty mix one barrel of this bottling was produced, but it falls shows light, tangy cranberry and raspberry flavors

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on the fresh, straightforward attack. Beyond that, it Dauntless 2015 Howitzer Pinot Noir (Wil- of freshness to the generous savory flavors, showing doesn’t offer much detail, finishing with a touch of 85 lamette Valley). This small producer has a bit of tannic heft on the finish that should settle acidity. —P.G. adopted WWI motifs for its labels; the wines are with additional time in the bottle. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $28 less striking. Here, a soft entry followed by a thick abv: 13.4% Price: $85 streak of vanilla. Oak treatment buries the fruit, Twill 2014 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). making it drink like a cheaper, more generic wine Cayuse 2014 En Chamberlain Vineyard Syrah 87 This light, pleasant wine shows ripe straw- than it purports to be. —P.G. 93 (Walla Walla Valley). Brooding aromas of berry, white pepper and dried herb notes. It was abv: 13.9% Price: $35 crushed rock, mineral, black olive, soot, cracked aged for 22 months in 10% new French oak. —P.G. black pepper, charcuterie and dried herb lead to abv: 12.8% Price: $25 fresh, focused flavors that are flavorful but remain SYRAH light on their feet. It shows a bit more tannic heft Willamette Valley Vineyards 2015 Estate than this area often shows along with great length 87 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The produc- Hors Catégorie 2014 Syrah (Walla Walla on the meaty finish. —S.S. tion of this nationally-distributed wine almost dou- 96 Valley). For full review see page 3. Cellar abv: 13.6% Price: $85 bled this vintage, making it one of the most visible Selection. Oregon Pinots in the country. It’s medium bodied abv: 14.1% Price: $240 Cayuse 2014 Wallah Wallah Special #6 and offers good varietal character, but there is a 93 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This wine—only slight off-note on the nose, which carries through Cayuse 2014 Bionic Frog Syrah (Walla Walla released in magnum—comes from a blend of vine- the finish, albeit subtly. —P.G. 94 Valley). Aromatically brooding notes of yards across the portfolio. The aromas pop, with abv: 14.3% Price: $32 herb, mineral, black olive tapenade, stem, flower, complex notes of stems, nori, sea salt, green olive, soot and plum lead to vibrant, concentrated fruit fire pit, tapanade, flowers and mineral. The smoked Cloudline 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val- and umami flavors. It’s an intense wine that brings meat, firepit and stem flavors are intense and 86 ley). Widely distributed and often praised, a great sense of tension, along with abundant min- savory, drawing out on the finish. —S.S. this seems a bit off-kilter this vintage. It delivers erality. Give it time to open up. —S.S. abv: 13.4% Price: $175 light berry and rhubarb fruit but also a hint of plas- abv: 13.5% Price: $105 tic and little sense of depth or flavor that go beyond No Girls 2014 La Paciencia Vineyard Syrah basic red wine. —P.G. Cayuse 2014 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah (Walla 92 (Walla Walla Valley). This wine starts out abv: 13.5% Price: $20 94 Walla Valley). For full review see page 4. quite locked up, with aromas of flowers, plum, dried abv: 13.6% Price: $85 herb, black pepper and mineral, showing more Coelho 2015 Zeitoun Vineyard Pinot Noir fruit expression than this area is often known for. 86 (Eola-Amity Hills). Some aspects of this Horsepower 2014 Sur Echalas Vineyard Syrah The palate is on the lighter side of medium bodied, wine have changed since the 2014 vintage: the alco- 94 (Walla Walla Valley). Alluring and intense bringing a sense of elegance, sophistication and hol is lower, and the exposure to new French oak aromas of soot, campfire, charcuterie, black pep- freshness. —S.S. (50%) is higher. There’s something amiss, however. per, herb, crushed flowers and liquid stone lead to abv: 13.4% Price: $75 While light strawberry fruit and hints of chicken a broadly rich, intense, flavorful palate, absolutely stock show on the palate, there’s a foreshortening loaded with fruit and savory flavors that glide on Grizzly Peak 2014 Syrah (Rogue Valley). and feeling of dilution on the finish. —P.G. the extended finish. —S.S. 90 This spicy and forward wine offers firm abv: 13% Price: $52 abv: 13.2% Price: $120 blackberry and black cherry fruit accented with savory olive flavors. Its vanilla and baking spices Dauntless 2015 No Man’s Land Wädenswil Horsepower 2014 The Tribe Vineyard Syrah notes suggest some time in new wood, and a hint 86 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). A reduc- 94 (Walla Walla Valley). Lighter in color, this of Dr. Pepper comes through on the finish. Syrah is tive note of rubber tire threads through the mélange wine is aromatic and expressive, with notes of fire definitely a strength at this winery. —P.G. of cherry cola, iron ore and red licorice flavors in pit, blood, black olive tapenade, sea salt, black pep- abv: 14.6% Price: $25 this wine. The components have not yet integrated, per, cured meat, nori, crushed flowers and umami. leading to a finish marked by bitter skin and tan- The palate brings soft, lithe, focused notes of earth Schultz 2012 Shepherd Steelhead Run nins. Give it another couple of years of bottle age and savory flavors that shimmer on the salty fin- 89 Vineyard Syrah (Applegate Valley). For full before pulling the cork. —P.G. ish. It’s all about delicacy but the aroma and flavor review see page 13. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 expression is compelling. Give it some time in the abv: 13.5% Price: $26 cellar or decant. —S.S. Hawkins Cellars 2014 Northern State Pinot abv: 13.2% Price: $120 Amalie Robert 2011 Top Barrel Syrah (Willa- 86 Noir (Oregon). This stiff, herbal, low-priced 88 mette Valley). Firm and tart, this is a rather wine is in a suddenly competitive category. It’s Cayuse 2014 Armada Vineyard Syrah (Walla light, earthy, herbal take on the grape. Its blueberry muscular and compact, with tight, sharp cranberry 93 Walla Valley). The aromas are initially more and blue plum suggestions are bound in an unyield- fruit, overtaken by stem and herb flavors. —P.G. fruit forward than often seen from this area, with ing frame, with a whiff of rubber ball on the nose. abv: 13.6% Price: $20 notes of plum followed by ash, black pepper, Star- —P.G. gazer lilies, charcuterie and iron. The flavors are abv: 12.2% Price: $100 Rain Dance 2015 Estate Pinot Noir (Che- palate coating and dense in feel, lingering on the 86 halem Mountains). This opens with tart finish. It needs some time in the cellar to truly show Twill 2014 Steelhead Run Vineyard Syrah purple fruit and underlying minerality before hit- its stuff. Best after 2022.Cellar Selection. —S.S. 87 (Applegate Valley). This wine shows grapey ting a wall and stopping short and bitter. Give it abv: 13.6% Price: $97 and plummy purple fruit notes lead to an earthy a lot of aeration if you intend to drink it anytime palate, with hints of stem and coffee. No new oak soon. —P.G. Cayuse 2014 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah (Walla was used, but it spent 22 months in barrel prior to abv: 14.3% Price: $40 93 Walla Valley). The aromas are brooding, bottling. —P.G. with notes of ash, raw meat, smoke, herb, stem, abv: 13.4% Price: $40 blood orange and mineral. The palate brings a sense

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 Twill 2014 Syrah (Oregon). Tannic and dry- soft in texture, ripe and intense, with a compelling Grizzly Peak 2014 Reserve Malbec (Rogue 86 ing, this offers simple black cherry fruit mixture of fruit and savory flavors that interweave 88 Valley). Though this wine’s mouthfeel is that thins out and finishes quickly. It’s just a cut through the extended finish. The balance is exqui- chalky, its dark fruit, touched with black olive, cof- above generic. —P.G. site. —S.S. fee and licorice, offers interesting, complex flavors. abv: 13.4% Price: $27 abv: 14.4% Price: $95 It’s tight, tart, lightly saline and peppery, with the fresh berry fruit flavors holding up through the fin- Twill 2013 Syrah (Oregon). Quite tannic, Cayuse 2014 Camaspelo (Walla Walla Val- ish. —P.G. 86 this hits hard with char, burnt rubber and 92 ley). The aromas are light, with notes of abv: 15.2% Price: $35 espresso flavors, some black fruit just showing moist earth, smoke, cassis, herb and berry. The through. Best to drink up by 2018. —P.G. saline and fruit flavors are silky in feel, bringing a Kriselle 2014 Malbec (Rogue Valley). This abv: 13.3% Price: $27 sense of concentration and texture that keeps the 87 is the brightest, least char-inflected of the interest high. There’s plenty of minerality through- winery’s red lineup, though it still wraps its berry out along with a lengthy finish. —S.S. fruit flavors in a thick cloak of roasted coffee and GRENACHE abv: 13.8% Price: $85 charred wood notes. Heavy toast seems to be the winery’s preferred style, though here it doesn’t Horsepower 2014 Sur Echalas Vineyard Gre- Cayuse 2014 The Lovers (Walla Walla Val- completely cover the lovely fruit. —P.G. 95 nache (Walla Walla Valley). For full review 92 ley). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 85% of abv: 13.7% Price: $27 see page 3. —S.S. this wine, with the balance Syrah. Bright aromas of abv: 13.5% Price: $120 plum, cassis, spice, herb, green pepper, blackberry bud and smoke are followed by a fruit forward TEMPRANILLO No Girls 2014 La Paciencia Vineyard Gre- palate showing a lovely sense of texture, balance 94 nache (Walla Walla Valley). Quite light and tension, with graphite notes throughout. It’s Cayuse 2014 Impulsivo En Chamberlain Vine- in color, the aromas bring initially locked up but remarkably fruit-filled for a wine from this region. 93 yard Tempranillo (Walla Walla Valley). Allur- then broadly expansive notes of peat, green olive, —S.S. ing aromas of moist earth, cassis bud, olive, nori, white pepper, strawberry, Stargazer lilies, mineral abv: 14.3% Price: $97 pipe tobacco, charcoal, funk and mineral give way to and herb, showing a lot of complexity. The palate lithe fruit and savory flavors with an ultra soft feel. is textured, bringing a profound mixture of fruit The texture is absolutely dazzling. —S.S. and savory flavors that intertwine effortlessly on MERLOT abv: 13.6% Price: $95 the long finish. It brings a sense of tension, texture and finesse that is completely captivating.Editors’ Heart Catcher 2014 Volcano Ridge Vineyard Abacela 2013 Paramour (Umpqua Valley). Choice. —S.S. 90 Merlot (Columbia Gorge). Given the vine- 92 This is a reserve level Tempranillo—the abv: 13.5% Price: $75 yard location, on the eastern edge of the Columbia third ever bottling produced by the winery. Packed Gorge, this is a unique take on Merlot, falling some- with cassis and black cherry fruit, it also delivers Cayuse 2014 God Only Knows (Walla Walla where between the broad, fleshy Washington style, intense smoke, charred wood and espresso scents 93 Valley). Mostly Grenache, the aromas are and the thinner, more herbal southern Oregon style. and flavors. It’s a powerful wine, with further notes vibrant, with notes of orange peel, stem, funk, The layered flavors mix berry, citrus and red plum, of spice and graphite, finishing tongue-scrapingly smoked meat, white pepper, herb and crushed in an open, easy-drinking wine that should pair well dry and ready for a juicy steak. —P.G. flower. It’s light on its feet with abundant raspberry with a variety of transitional autumn entrées. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $100 and earth flavors that draw out on the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $97 No Girls 2014 Tempranillo (Walla Walla Val- Schultz 2012 Steelhead Run Vineyard Blessed 91 ley). The aromas rise up from the glass, Aubichon Cellars 2015 Reserve Grenache (The 87 Merlot (Rogue Valley). This full-bodied wine with notes of pepper, violet, cigar box, peat, smoke, 91 Rocks District of Milton-Freewater). Light in shows smooth and rounded plum fruit. The flavors braised meat and an earthy funk. The palate is con- color, this offers alluring peat, white pepper, herb, are mouth-filling, but the rather quick fade suggests siderably lighter in style than the aromas might sug- earth and raspberry aromas. It dances on the palate, it’s best consumed in the near term, as it’s already gest, bringing notes of cherry, earth and herb that showing elegance and sophistication and bringing- five years past harvest. —P.G. linger, with citrus twist notes on the finish. —S.S. plenty of intrigue. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 13.6% Price: $75 abv: 14.1% Price: $45 Grizzly Peak 2014 Merlot (Rogue Valley). South Stage 2013 Tempranillo (Rogue Val- Simple Machine 2012 Grenache (Rogue Val- 86 This feels a bit thin, even in this warm, ripe 85 ley). Made predominantly from Tempra- 86 ley). This is a syrupy, ripe take on Grenache, vintage. Its rhubarb and mountain berry fruit comes nillo, with 10% Pinot Noir and a splash of Syrah, which renders it varietally unrecognizable. There’s with green tannins, finishing with light coffee and this is a simple, generic red wine, with light berry a deep core of cassis and black cherry fruit, but any mocha suggestions. —P.G. flavors and touch of cracker but no specific varietal remaining details have been blown out by the alco- abv: 14.3% Price: $24 character. —P.G. hol. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 15.1% Price: $34 MALBEC RED BLENDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON Abacela 2014 Barrel Select Malbec (Umpqua 91 Valley). Impenetrably dark in color, this Cayuse 2014 Flying Pig (Walla Walla Valley). Cayuse 2014 Widowmaker En Chamberlain potent wine marries black fruit to ample barrel 91 A blend of Merlot (50%), Cabernet Franc 93 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla accents of smoke and char. Though aged in just 5% (40%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), this aro- Valley). The aromas are expansive and mineral new French oak, those dark scents and flavors per- matic wine brings aromas of funk, earth, truffle, fire laden, with notes of earthy funk, wet stone, fire pit, meate the wine. It’s a style with broad appeal. —P.G. pit, dried peat, herb and cherry. The flavors are soft, graphite, peat, grilled meat and cassis. The palate is abv: 14% Price: $30

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silky and refined, showing a sense of grace—a very sion of apple cider vinegar marks the finish. Drink Creekside Cellars 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon pretty expression of a Bordeaux-style blend. —S.S. up. —P.G. 87 (Colorado). Spicy aromas of cedar and pep- abv: 14.1% Price: $95 abv: 13.4% Price: $30 per are joined by warm notes of black currant and blackberry. Velvet tannins are well integrated on Sidecar 2015 G-Force Red (Oregon). For full Kriselle 2014 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Valley). the palate, with flavors of baking spice, pepper and 90 review see page 12. 86 Intense scents and flavors of charred wood cedar alongside fruit notes of black currant and abv: 13.3% Price: $29 and espresso beans take full control here. There’s black cherry. The tannins linger on the finish, with little evidence of the underlying fruit. It’s a stylistic more baking spice and cherry balanced by ample Kriselle 2014 Di’tani (Rogue Valley). Made choice—one that the winery has clearly embraced. acidity. —F.A. 87 predominantly from Cabernet Franc, this —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35 includes Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and abv: 14.4% Price: $27 Tempranillo as well. It’s close in style to the win- Sutcliffe 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colo- ery’s other reds, from its aggressively dark, roasted 87 rado). Bright raspberry and cherry cola take aromas to its charred wood and roasted coffee fla- COLORADO the lead while vanilla and cedar follow on the pal- vors. It delivers a hint of dark chocolate as well, and ate of this light-bodied Cabernet. Cherry and vanilla its tannins are heavy, with a bitter edge. —P.G. CABERNET FRANC are joined by soft fading tannins on the finish. —F.A. abv: 14.3% Price: $26 abv: 13.3% Price: $35 Creekside Cellars 2014 Colorado’s Cabernet Simple Machine 2013 The Vector Syrah-Gre- 91 Franc (Grand Valley). For full review see page 87 nache (Rogue Valley). This blend of 60% 9. OTHER RED WINES Syrah and 40% Grenache blend is high in alcohol abv: 13.4% Price: $45 and ultra ripe with fruit. It’s pushed well past any Sutcliffe 2014 Merlot (Colorado). Black subtlety, with dark black fruit flavors, chewy tan- The Infinite Monkey Theorem 2015 Cabernet 87 cherry and pomegranate shine through the nins and some heat on the finish. —P.G. 90 Franc (Colorado). Bright cherry and cran- smoke, licorice and cedar aromas. The medium- abv: 15.2% Price: $34 berry aromas are joined by savory notes of pizza bodied palate is lightly smoky, with more notes of dough, green pepper, and oregano. Lively red fruits cedar and vanilla. Dark fruits persist, supported by pop on the palate, with the mild savory spices and soft, dusty tannins and a pleasant lift of acidity on OTHER RED WINES pepper playing a supporting role. Refreshing acidity the finish. —F.A. and medium bodied, this wine is quaffable and food abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Abacela 2014 Barrel Select Tannat (Umpqua friendly, and the tannins are pillowy and support- 91 Valley). This deep, grippy wine has the bones ive. Delightful fruits linger on the finish alongside a Sutcliffe 2014 Bodysgallen (Colorado). High of a mastodon. Its thick blackberry, black cherry and touch of spice. —F.A. 86 toned cranberry and red cherry aromas cassis fruit carries even darker streaks of chocolate abv: 12.9% Price: $25 mix with hot chili peppers on the nose. High acid- and espresso. Though still rare, Tannat is making ity keeps the cranberry, pomegranate and cherry a home for itself in Southern Oregon. It’s a meaty, Sutcliffe 2014 Cabernet Franc (Colorado). flavors bright on the palate, with spicy notes and steak-friendly alternative to pricier Cabernets. Edi- 89 The nose is full of baking spices, cinnamon taut tannins giving nuance. Black cherry, licorice tors’ Choice. —P.G. and nutmeg, as well as blackberry and black cur- and clove lead the spicy finish, which leans a bit abv: 15.4% Price: $30 rant, with a peppery note lingering under it all. The hot. —F.A. tannins are taut, with ample acidity lifting the spicy abv: 13.8% Price: $40 Heart Catcher 2013 Volcano Ridge Vineyard palate. Fruit notes of black plum and black currant 91 Zinfandel (Columbia Gorge). From a site adja- meld with raw tobacco leaf. The tannins linger on The Infinite Monkey Theorem 2015 Malbec cent to the Pines vineyard, this rare Oregon Zinfan- the finish, with plenty of dark fruit and spice. —F.A. 85 (Grand Valley). Black plum and black cur- del deftly melds toast, sweet spice, buttered nut, abv: 14.2% Price: $28 rant are jammy on the brambly nose. The smooth espresso and black cherry flavors. It’s big, bold, dark tannins take a backseat to the jammy and plummy and delicious, with more lift than its high alcohol Sutcliffe 2013 Cabernet Franc (Colorado). black fruits on the medium-bodied palate. There might suggest. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 87 Aromas of plum, black currant and black- is just enough acidity to keep this wine from turn- abv: 14.8% Price: $34 berry are heightened by dried cranberry, with hints ing flabby. Black plum, a touch of baking spice and of bell pepper and white pepper. Firm tannins on warmth linger on the finish. —F.A. Chehalem 2015 Ridgecrest Vineyards Gamay the palate are balanced by the acidity, with brambly abv: 13.6% Price: $25 89 Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Gamay is still fairly flavors of blackberry and plenty of pepper. The tan- rare in Oregon but ripens well into a style more nins linger through the finish, with note of white Sutcliffe 2013 Hafoty Fawr (Colorado). Tart reminiscent of Zinfandel or Grenache than of Beau- pepper and bramble. —F.A. 85 raspberry and blackberry are sharp in this jolais. Robust and fruity, this has tart and spicy abv: 13.1% Price: $30 medium- to light-bodied blend, with hints of vanilla cranberry and cherry notes, with a nice acid/tannin and white pepper on the palate. Fleeting tannins balance that keeps the flavors moving along nicely leads to a tangy finish. —F.A. through the finish. —P.G. CABERNET SAUVIGNON abv: 14.3% Price: $80 abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Kingman 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Grand Amalie Robert 2015 Pinot Meunier (Willa- 88 Valley). Cedar and cigar box are most prom- TEXAS 88 mette Valley). A still wine made from the inent on the nose, followed by hints of blackberry workhorse grape of true , this seems to and currant. The palate boasts cigar box, leather CABERNET SAUVIGNON be maturing rather rapidly, suggesting cured meat, and raw oak with more currant and pomegranate bruised apple, strawberry and cherry. An impres- offering levity. Medium tannins lend structure and Haak 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Texas High carry through to the cedar flecked finish. —F.A. 88 Plains). Aromas of black fruit, cinnamon abv: 13.5% Price: $17 and tobacco are congenial on the nose. The palate is

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 velvety, with flavors of blackberry and cedar backed ate. Intensely tannic, the wine finishes with a strong big wine with a lush, warm finish. Enjoy with green by nutmeg, clove and ashy tannins. Currant and cigar box flavor. —F.A. curry salmon. —C.D. cedar notes turn spicy on the finish. Pair with game abv: 14.9% Price: $80 abv: NA Price: $28 meats. —F.A. abv: 13.8% Price: $25 Haak 2014 Malbec (Texas High Plains). Bogati 2015 Viognier (Virginia). This Viog- 86 Cocoa powder, anise and cowhide aromas 84 nier is alive with aromas of honeysuckle, Becker 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon lead, with hints of fresh currants. Juicy cherry and chamomile and white peach. The flavors are tart 86 (Texas). Aromas and flavors of blackberry, ripe raspberry are appealing on the palate, paving and upfront, showing tangy peach and passion fruit. pomegranate, leather and cedar are warmed by bak- the way for sweet baking spices and vanilla. The —C.D. ing spice and bitter chocolate on the palate. The tannins are disjointed from this soft-structured, abv: 13.5% Price: $25 tannins are firm and lend plenty of structure. Cedar fruit-forward offering. The lack of acidity is most and tobacco prevail on the finish, with a touch of apparent on the finish, which shows overripe cherry The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Wessex Hun- warmth. —F.A. and hints of clove. —F.A. 83 dred Viognier (Virginia). Honeysuckle, peach abv: 14.4% Price: $25 abv: 13.4% Price: $25 and ginger are prominent with each whiff of this wine. Unfortunately these notes do not carry to Llano Estacado 2014 Cellar Reserve Cab- the palate, which is thin and slightly hot. The fin- 82 ernet Sauvignon (Texas). Aromas of rasp- VIRGINIA ish takes a plesant turn with short flash of ginger. berry and green peppercorn carry the nose. The —C.D. palate is green, with underripe cranberry and wild VIOGNIER abv: 12.7% Price: $24 blackberry accompanied by leather and white pep- per. Underripe tannins are course throughout and King Family 2015 Orange Viognier (Monti- dominate the finish with flavors of blackberry and 92 cello). Winemaker Matthieu Finot deftly SAUVIGNON BLANC cedar. —F.A. transforms this wine by keeping it on the skins for abv: 13.1% Price: $20 three weeks with a daily punch-downs, then allow- Blue Valley 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Middle- ing 100% malolactic fermentation during aging in 89 burg). This wine is alive with herbacious neutral oak. This orange wine boasts a gorgeous notes that give it a savory quality—cut grass and RED BLENDS bouquet of fresh apricot, orange blossom and rooi- green olive blend effortlessly with rosewater and bos tea. These aromas transition onto the palate baked lemon. These are all well represented on the Llano Estacado 2014 Viviano Cabernet where they taste concentrated and fresh. It’s dry, palate, which also offers a welcome green apple fla- 89 Sauvignon-Sangiovese (Texas). Cranberry, with delicate tannins and a clean finish that lingers vor. Good acidity and balanced weight offer a long vanilla and barnyard aromas pervade on the nose. and evolves. —C.D. and lifted finish, complex with character. —C.D. The palate is gentle and well balanced by notes of abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 12.9% Price: $28 forest floor and cedar, while the structured tan- nins complement the tart cranberry and blackberry. Horton 2016 Viognier (Virginia). Beauti- Blue Valley 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Middle- Fruit tones and cedar linger on the long finish. —F.A. 88 ful aromas of apricot, geranium and honey 87 burg). This wine starts off with a nose of abv: 13.7% Price: $35 unfold upon first whiff. Similar notes are displayed fresh grass and subtle rosewater. These translate on the palate along with peach and lavender. Given well on the palate, alongside additional hints of Messina Hof 2014 Paulo Limited Edition the plush mouthfeel, fresh acidity, full body and ginger and lemon. Tingling with acidity but thin in 89 (Texas). For full review see page 12. good structure, this well-balanced wine would excel weight, the midpalate is slightly disjointed. A zing abv: 13.5% Price: $40 alongside food. —C.D. of citrus on the finish brings a bit of focus. —C.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.3% Price: $28 Becker 2014 Chevaux Noir Cabernet Franc- 88 Merlot (Texas High Plains). This blend of Trump 2015 Estate Bottled Viognier (Mon- James Charles 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Vir- 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc displays 88 ticello). Base notes of vanilla, peach and 87 ginia). This wine evokes aromas of spring— aromas of cherry, blueberry and bramble berries, honeysuckle linger on the nose as honeydew and fresh peach, lemon and pomelo mix with white backed by aromas of vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon. chamomile show in the background. Tangerine, flowers and a fresh green stem note. The palate is The palate is medium bodied with supportive tan- honeysuckle, peach, honeydew and ginger show on velour-soft in feel, yet there is a crispness from a nins and shows flavors of red berries and baking the rich palate, with a zip of acidity o the long, tingly citrus note that offers balance. The finish is mid- spices. Leather and cedar carry to the finish joined finish. —C.D. length and offers layers of flavors. —C.D. by a swath of acidity. —F.A. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13.4% Price: $26 abv: 13.6% Price: $40 Blue Valley 2016 Viognier (Middleburg). A Stinson 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Monticello). 87 high-toned array of peach, rosewater, mango 85 Gooseberry and lychee candy pervade over OTHER RED WINES and banana show on the nose and palate. The palate subtle notes of lemon, lime and eucalyptus. Vibrant is mouth coating, with a pleasant roundness and a on the palate, lychee and gooseberry remain the Messina Hof 2015 Private Reserve Double long and warming finish. —C.D. stars but take on a bitterness. Racy acidity is preva- 88 Barrel Malbec (Texas High Plains). For full abv: 13.1% Price: $26 lent and lends itself to a tart finish. —C.D. review see page 13. abv: 12% Price: $24 abv: 13.6% Price: $30 James Charles 2015 Viognier (Virginia). Fra- 86 grant peach, tangerine, white blossom and Becker 2012 Estate Reserve Merlot (Texas ginger are prevalent on the nose of this Viognier. OTHER WHITE WINES 87 Hill Country). Tobacco leaf, black currant The flavors are similar, although the fruit is pithier and cinnamon color the nose of this Merlot. Sug- and there is a touch of honeydew. Round in feel, Michael Shaps 2014 Honah Lee Vineyard gestions of black fruits are buried by oak flavors of with delicate acidity and a rich full body, this is a 88 Petit Manseng (Monticello). This is deep cigar box, vanilla, cinnamon and tobacco on the pal- gold in color, with aromas of butter, biscuits and

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pineapple. Initial flavors of buttery popcorn, vanilla, Blue Valley 2015 Muskat Ottonel (Middle- Paradise Springs 2016 Nana’s Rosé (Virginia). clove and nutmeg carry the palate, with apricot and 85 burg). Powerful aromas of lychee, mango 87 Soft aromas of raspberry, strawberry and citrus in the background. This is an oily, robust and peach give a vibrant feel tropical to this wine. terracotta are elegant in this Cabernet Franc and wine that lingers long and spicy on the finish. —C.D. These aromas show the palate and are joined by Merlot blend. This shows a palate of brambly rasp- abv: 14.6% Price: $30 peach candies and rosewater. With decent acid- berry, under-ripe apple, grapefruit and powdered ity, this still feels viscous on the palate and has a ginger. Dry in style and crisp with decent acidity, it James River 2015 Gewürztraminer (Vir- medium finish that ends with ginger spice. —C.D. finishes tingly and slightly spicy. —C.D. 88 ginia). Lychee, pear drop, geranium and abv: 12.9% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 rosewater entice on the nose. The palate mimics the nose and is joined by concentrated, rich notes Bogati 2015 Seyval Blanc (Virginia). Lime of honeysuckle, chamomile and ginger candy. Full 85 and orange peel remain in front of dried CABERNET FRANC and round in body, this finishes long and plush with apricot and nuts on the nose. The palate shows soft evolving flavors. —C.D. grassiness and lifted acidity, which keeps the feel Barboursville Vineyards 2015 Reserve Cab- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 lean and short. —C.D. 90 ernet Franc (Virginia). This Cabernet Franc abv: 13.9% Price: $22 starts off with dynamic aromas of red cherry, red The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Petite Fleur plum, bramble, fig and incense. These scents trans- 88 (Virginia). Lovely aromas of marmalade, The Williamsburg Winery 2015 A Midsummer late to lovely flavors that are complex, yet elegant. orange blossom, peach, honeysuckle and cantaloupe 85 Night’s White (Virginia). Popping with aro- In body and structure, this is an intense wine— waft from the glass. These notes translate onto the mas of lychee, rose, geranium and violet this wine ample crushed-velvet tannins harmoniously mesh palate, which is viscous and mouthcoating, yet bal- is quite perfumed. There are also citrus notes of with racy acidity and a full body. The finish is long anced by a lifted acidity that preserves a lingering lime zest and lemon curd. Flavors are perfumed and and evolving. —C.D. finish. —C.D. soapy as well, and it wine coats your mouth. The abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 10.5% Price: $28 finish is long with a slightly bitter end. —C.D. abv: 12.2% Price: $16 Blue Valley 2015 Estate Cabernet Franc Barboursville Vineyards 2014 Reserve Ver- 88 (Middleburg). Nuanced aromas of fig, 87 mentino (Virginia). Peaches, white flowers, James Charles 2015 Riesling (Virginia). prune, molasses, coffee, tobacco and smoky chipo- white pepper and a hint of crushed walnuts waft 84 Tropical aromas abound on the nose, giving tle make an intriguing bouquet and find their way on the nose. The palate is shows underripe pear, way to passion fruit and peach. These notes the star onto the palate. Forest floor and mushroom tones gummy peach rings and honeydew melon, yet the players on the palate, along with papaya, banana add complexity to the flavors. The tannins are rich weight and intensity is a bit restrained. This would and lime in support. —C.D. but the overall feel of this wine is elegant. —C.D. be a lovely accompaniment to a mild cheese or soft- abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13.6% Price: $38 shelled crab over crisp greens. —C.D. abv: 13% Price: $22 James Charles 2016 Riesling (Virginia). With Early Mountain 2015 Shenandoah Valley Cab- 82 strong aromas of banana and walnut, this 87 ernet Franc (Virginia). This Cabernet Franc Casanel 2015 Estate Chardonnay (Middle- smells like banana bread. With decent acidity and a is a little green with hints of eucalyptus, yet boasts 87 burg). An intriguing nose of lemon, pine- medium body, the finish shows a nutty note. —C.D. more fruit notes of blueberry and black plum. This apple, vanilla and banana candies are encased in abv: 11.2% Price: $24 is a really fresh, easy-drinking red, with silky tan- a waft of warm yeast. Flavors of honeydew, more nins and integrated acidity. The finish is long and pineapple and oak spice are folded into a saline and bright. —C.D. nutty component. The weight is plush and feels ROSÉS abv: 13.75% Price: $34 silky on the tongue. —C.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Early Mountain 2016 Rosé (Virginia). This Horton 2014 Private Reserve Cabernet Franc 89 rosé has a gorgeous nose of strawberry, 87 (Virginia). Lush aromas of eucalyptus, black Horton 2016 Vidal Blanc (Virginia). Fresh watermelon and white tea. Ultra refreshing in taste, currant leaf and cedar dominate the nose. On the 86 tropical aromas of lychee, mango, honeydew the palate boasts pomelo, fresh berry and melon. palate, these notes remain but are slightly over- and orange blossom show on the nose. These notes Zippy and bright with tingly acidity, it has a long, powered by charred oak. There is ample acidity that carry to the palate and mix with an herbaceous evolving finish. —C.D. meshes well with the grippy tannins and the finish quality. Soft and round in mouthfeel, this Vidal abv: 12.2% Price: $22 is long and dry. —C.D. ends on a savory note. —C.D. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Boxwood 2016 Rosé (Middleburg). Splendid 88 aromas of strawberry, rose water and hon- Bogati 2013 Black Label Club Chardonnay eydew make for an enticing nose. The aromas reso- PETIT VERDOT 85 (Virginia). On the nose this wine gives off nate on the palate and tart ruby red grapefruit is muted lemon and honeydew, leading to a palate of folded in. This rosé boasts a zippy, fresh acidity and Blue Valley 2015 Petit Verdot (Virginia). lemon curd, lime and green apple. This is a zippy a long refreshing finish. —C.D. 89 This red boasts aromas of cranberry, red wine with a crisp finish. —C.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 plum, geranium, rooibos, tar and licorice. These abv: 13.1% Price: $35 notes unfold onto the palate and are met with soft King Family 2016 Crosé (Monticello). This hints of coconut and vanilla. The tannins are soft Blue Valley 2016 Muskat Ottonel (Middle- 88 Merlot-based rosé is plush with a sum- and velvety, the acidity is zippy and active, and the 85 burg). Showing aromas of overripe mango, mer bouquet of strawberries, rose petals and cle- finish is long and juicy. —C.D. peach, lime and white flowers, this wine is intense mentines. The freshness continues onto the palate abv: 13.7% Price: $40 on the nose. The palate is equally loud, with lime where there is also a lovely note of Pink Lady apple. and candied peach standing out. The acidity is Soft in feel, a decent acidity prevails and gives it a The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Reserve Petit prickly and gives a sour taste to the finish. —C.D. nice lift. —C.D. 88 Verdot (Virginia). This Petit Verdot has a abv: 12.8% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $20 fresh nose, full of cranberry, red plum, geranium

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017 and rooibos. These aromas carry through to the and mint giving depth. The tannins are grippy and forefront, with baking spice, fig, prune, soy sauce palate, where rooibos is the star. Vanilla and clove massive, but there is ample acidity to keep them in and Lipton tea queuing behind. Showing more of come into play as well and are prominent on the fin- check. The finish is long and intense. —C.D. the same on the palate, these flavors help to quench ish. The tannins are abundant, yet soft. The acidity abv: 13% Price: $75 the parching tannins that carry this blend to a lin- is zippy and makes this wine feel crisp. —C.D. gering finish. —C.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $60 Barboursville Vineyards 2014 Octagon (Vir- abv: 13.8% Price: $26 89 ginia). The nose of this Bordeaux-style The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Wessex Hun- blend is laden with blackberry, violets, clove and The Williamsburg Winery 2014 Four Barrel 88 dred Petit Verdot (Virginia). This wine has eucalyptus. The round palate doles out similar com- 87 Cuvée (Virginia). Aromas of coffee, fig, dried a pronouned nose of lilac, red currant, cranberry plexity, with additions of bramble berries and for- fruit and soy sauce are concentrated on the nose. and violet. The palate features the same, as well as est floor tones. The tannins are smooth and toasty, Earthy flavors on the palate are elevated by these tomato leaf, nutmeg and clove. This is a big wine which translates onto the long and dry finish. —C.D. aromas, with a hint of Rooibos tea that gives it lift that feels lighter due to the fresh acidity. The tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 and intrigue. The tannins are silky and the finish is nins are big, but well integrated and make for a nice long with evolving flavors. —C.D. spicy finish. —C.D. Rosemont NV Virginia Red (Virginia). The abv: 11.4% Price: $49 abv: 13% Price: $32 89 nose of this wine is full of violet, sweet cherry, strawberry jam and fig. The palate is remi- Early Mountain 2014 Eluvium (Virginia). Casanel 2014 Estate Petit Verdot (Middle- niscent of a fresh strawberry covered in balsamic 86 This wine is bright with cherry and incense 85 burg). This wine has is high-toned in aro- reduction and the satin-smooth tannins carry this aromas. Cherry and bramble flavors are juicy and mas with raisin, terriyaki, red currant and charred along to the long finish. —C.D. fresh, with support from supersoft tannins and oak. The palate is a bit muted on the fruit tones, abv: 13% Price: $16 zippy acidity. This makes for an easy drinking sum- with red currant pervading and secondary charac- mer red. —C.D. teristics of coffee and chocolate in the background. Slater Run 2014 Roots (Virginia). Fresh abv: 13.1% Price: $32 This is a big wine with chewy tannins, a full body 89 and enticing aromas of blackberry, rasp- and puckery acidity. —C.D. berry, cedar and green olive are abundant in this Slater Run 2014 First Bridge (Virginia). This abv: 13% Price: $36 Bordeaux-style blend. The palate is bursting with 86 Bordeaux-style blend has pretty aromas of jammy berries, molasses, cedar and vanilla. The cassis, fig, molasses and strawberry jam. The palate tannins are supple but smooth and are a matched picks up some dried fruit and more molasses. This TANNAT well for the rich body. The finish is long and full of is an easy drinker, with a soft tannic structure and depth. —C.D. mild weight. —C.D. Horton 2014 Tannat (Virginia). A grape abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $36 88 known in Uruguay and Madiran has proved to show well in Virginia and this is a solid example. The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Mount Juliet Early Mountain 2014 Novum (Virginia). This This wine has a pronounced nose of red berries, 89 Limited Release (Virginia). This is a com- 86 Bordeaux-style blend is fresh, showing aro- barnyard and purple flowers. Flavors of raspberry, forting and hearty wine, lush with aromas of cocoa, mas of red currant, tomato leaf, licorice and mint. cranberry, red plum and violet ease the way into fig, prune and soy sauce. The flavors mimic the aro- These notes continue onto the palate along with shots more spicy and charred notes. A firm tannic grip is mas and meld with molasses and cedar on the pal- of tart cranberry. This is zippy and enjoyable but softened by zippy acidity that gives the palate a nice ate. The tannins are dynamic and parching but are needs a little more tannic structure to balance. —C.D. lift. —C.D. not too robust for this full bodied wine. —C.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $36 The Williamsburg Winery 2014 Gabriel Stinson 2013 Tannat (Monticello). This wine Barboursville Vineyards 2013 Octagon (Vir- 84 Archer Reserve (Virginia). Aromas of smoke 85 is high-toned with flamboyant aromas of 88 ginia). Savory mint, prune and soy sauce are upfront, with underlying aromas of dried straw- pomegranate, cherry and grape. Cherry is front and blend nicely with notes of violet and rose. More berry, prune and mushroom. The smokiness contin- center on the palate, with subdued notes of resinous fruit comes through on the palate, showing a bright ues on the palate, with prune and fig adding fruit oak and baking spice coming through. Mocha-tinged cranberry note that livens everything up. —C.D. tones. In feel, this wine is disjointed, with adhesive tannins lead on the finish. —C.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 tannins and a lack of lift. —C.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $36 abv: 11.6% Price: $42 Early Mountain 2015 Elevation (Virginia). The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Limited 88 Dense with alluring aromas, this wine is full 84 Release Tannat (Virginia). Aromas of cran- of black currant, anise, cedar and mint. The palate OTHER RED WINES berry laced with cocoa, vanilla and cedar are pres- follows suit and shows great tannic structure and ent on the nose. Dense flavors of resinous charred integrated acidity. —C.D. James River 2010 Touriga (Virginia). Bram- oak, dark chocolate, cranberry, blackberry and dill abv: 13.6% Price: $30 88 ble and red fruits combine with spicy are full and extracted. Astringent tannins give a incense and oily coffee beans on the nose. Feeling closed feel. —C.D. Early Mountain 2014 Aylor (Virginia). The viscous in the mouth, there are prominent flavors of abv: 12.5% Price: $60 87 nose shows black cherry, cherry cola, euca- coffee, clove, nutmeg and dried red plum. The tan- lyptus and toasty cedar. Brambly and leafy flavors nins are bold, structured and well integrated, giving open themselves to more cherry and eucalyptus on a crushed velvet feel. The finish is long with evolv- RED BLENDS the palate and an enjoyably long and smokey finish. ing flavors. —C.D. —C.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Adagio (Vir- abv: 13.1% Price: $55 90 ginia). Powerful aromas of black tea, black The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Reserve Mer- currant, anise, clove, and soy sauce jump from the North Gate 2013 Meritage (Virginia). This 88 lot (Virginia). This wine evokes black cherry glass. The palate follows suit, with plenty of fruit 87 Bordeaux-style blend offers licorice at the pie cooling in a window sill. Kirsch, clove, anise and

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toast form a powerful bouquet that carries through marmalade and yellow peach are lifted by just to the palate. Fleshy tannins and a creaminess sug- enough acidity and refreshing bubbles. —F.A. gest a rich body and makes for a long finish that abv: 12% Price: $17 ends with a zing of tart cherry. —C.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $49 Gruet 2011 Sauvage (America). Made from 87 100% Chardonnay, this shows lemon, apple Fabbioli Cellars 2013 Chambourcin (Vir- and nectarine on the nose with hints of croisant. 87 ginia). This wine is abundant with aromas of Spritely bubbles quickly fade, leaving honeydew, cherry Coke, sarsaparilla and baking spice. The pal- green apple, nectarine and a hint of pastry. The fin- ate is delicate yet is given some weight from seven ish is fresh with lemon juice and tart apple. —F.A. months in neutral French and American oak. This abv: 12% Price: $27 wine gains a soft texture from Tannat skins added during fermentation. —C.D. Gruet NV Blanc de Noirs (America). Green abv: 12% Price: $18 86 apple skin and lime peel are tart on the pal- ate, but supported by a well structured mousse. The The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Wessex Hun- aromas are ripe, with green apple, peach, and a hint 87 dred Merlot (Virginia). This Merlot is driven of birthday cake. —F.A. by cherry, anise, cloves and cedar. Lively acididty abv: 12% Price: $17 carries through on the finish, where the tannins are soft and mellow. —C.D. Gruet NV Brut (America). This Brut shows abv: 12% Price: $24 86 lemon and sweet Wonder Bread aromas on the nose. The palate starts frothy but quickly mel- The Williamsburg Winery 2015 Limited lows, and carries ripe lemon and white peach flavors 86 Release Norton (Virginia). This wine brings to the sweet bread and citrus finish. —F.A. notes of cassis, crushed violet, blueberry and lav- abv: 12% Price: $17 ender to the nose. These notes are prevalent on the palate as well and work nicely with it’s tingly acid- Gruet NV Blanc de Blancs (America). Intense ity. —C.D. 85 yeasty aromas lean a bit nutty with a sug- abv: 13.2% Price: $39 gestion of citrus. Aggressively frothy bubbles give way to cashews and bread dough showing hints James River 2014 Chambourcin (Virginia). of lemon. Grapefruit pith and peanut skin bring a 82 A mixture of blueberry, cranberry and iron slightly bitter note to the finish. —F.A. are upfront on the nose. An extremely fruit forward abv: 12% Price: $17 wine, the palate is reminiscent of Concord grape juice. With 40 g/L residual sugar and a lean body, Gruet 2012 Gilbert Grande Reserve (Amer- the finish is short and sweet. —C.D. 85 ica). Aromas of lemon juice and graham abv: 12.5% Price: $16 cracker show on the nose and carry to the persis- tantly foamy palate. Additional notes of apple and orange peel offer some depth but fade quickly from AMERICA unrelenting acidity. —F.A. abv: 12% Price: $39 SPARKLING WINES

Gruet NV Sauvage Blanc de Blancs (Amer- 88 ica). This 100% Chardonnay sparkler is full of lemon, yellow apple and pizza dough on the nose. Tart green apple, ripe grapefruit, orange and lemon show on the palate, with delightful carbonation car- rying the flavors. This is a perfect party pour. —F.A. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

Biltmore Estate NV Blanc de Noir Brut (Amer- 87 ica). This neon-watermelon sparkler shows playfully fruity aromas of watermelon hard candy and fresh strawberries. Ample acidity keeps the pal- ate lively, with ripe watermelon, cherry and straw- berry flavors carrying through to the bright finish. —F.A. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

Gruet NV Demi Sec (America). Heady aromas 87 suggest butter cookies with lemon custard and apricot. On the palate, ripe flavors of orange

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aroma. The palate feels light, as fleetingly sweet vanilla and almond winds into a cinnamon and nut- meg finish. Sip or mix this versatile California grape brandy. Best Buy. SPIRITS abv: 40% Price: $35 All-American brandies Angela & Gene A&G Reserve Michigan Brandy 92 (USA; St. Julian Wine Company, Paw Paw, MI). While made with Michigan grapes, this brandy hen you say “American spirit,” most ducer quietly came through again and again is reminiscent of Calvados, Normandy’s apple people think “whiskey.” But this with stellar scores: California’s Germain-Robin. brandy. The aroma suggests orchard fruit and oak, month we sampled America’s other To be fair, many of the bottles reviewed are lim- while the drying palate offers dark honey and baked brown spirit: brandy. ited editions, made from what the producer apple, finishing crisp with hints of vanilla, tea, oak WAccording to most accounts, brandy was calls “one-time blends” or single barrel/sin- and clove. Made from a base of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay grapes. America’s first distilled spirit, made from the gle varietal bottlings from their “old and rare” abv: 40% Price: $46 abundant apples, peaches and pears that grew collection. It’s almost unfair to put them in the among the colonies; wheat- same line-up as more conven- Frísco Brandy (USA; North Channel Spirits, based whiskeys came much later. tional bottlings. But it also goes 92 San Francisco, CA). For full review see page But over the centuries, France’s Brandy was to show that American brandies 15. Best Buy. abv: 45% Price: $35 brandies—Cognac, Armagnac America’s first are capable of excellence, just and Calvados—have taken distilled spirit, like their French cousins. Blue Sky Mining Brandy (USA; Copper & center stage in the premium made from the Despite some rave reviews, 90 Kings, Louisville, KY). Honey hued in the brandy arena. American brandies are still not glass, look for jazzy, bright orchard fruit on the nose Can America’s brandy com- abundant apples, on people’s radar. and palate, plus an herbaceous chamomile note and a hoppy effervescence on the tongue reminiscent pete? In a word: maybe. They “People don’t know enough peaches and pears of beer. The long finish hints at pear. Made from are certainly not lacking on the that grew among about brandy to understand seven-year-old Muscat brandy finished for 30 days innovation front. Louisville’s the colonies. how good it can be, to really in a Kentucky hogshead. At 100 proof, be sure to Copper & Kings is pushing believe in it,” said Ansley Coale, add dilution to taste. boundaries by playing bass- co-founder and principal of abv: 50% Price: $40/375 ml thumping David Bowie tracks to the barrels Germain-Robin. Arkansas Black Straight Applejack (USA; in their cellar in a bid to speed up aging; Balti- If you’re among those who have never tried 89 Timberlane Distillery, Novato, CA). Named more Whiskey Company is experimenting with American brandy, here are several bottles worth in homage to the producer’s great grandfather, who unaged apple brandy distilled “in the style of a pour right now, from a California take on pisco made cider and favored Arkansas Black Apples, this traditional mezcal.” to a luscious, long-aged apple brandy from 100% apple brandy was “rested outdoors” for two years in ex-Cognac casks (most barrels are aged Amid those bells and whistles, another pro- Arkansas. –Kara Newman indoors), then one year in new American oak. The end result is an inviting butterscotch-tinged aroma and drying, relatively hot palate showing vanilla, oak, and bitter chocolate, with just a hint of fruit on the finish. Germain-Robin Alembic Brandy One-Time a good balance of fruit and oak, suited for sipping or abv: 49% Price: $50 98 Blend No. 25 (USA; Germain-Robin, Ukiah, mixing. Aged in French ex-Chardonnay barrels, the CA). Snap up this limited edition bottling: Given a producer bills this as the “longest-aged domestic Dogfish Head Esprit Malade (USA; Dogfish few minutes to open in the glass, this brandy entices apple brandy available anywhere.” 20 barrels made. 89 Head Distilling, Milton, DE). Think of this as with fresh fig, golden raisin and baked pear aromas. abv: 46% Price: $125 a spirit-cider hybrid, made with a blend of barrel- The soft palate intertwines crème brûlée, fruit and aged apple brandy, hard apple cider and sweet (non- baking spice, finishing long with subtle dark choco- Germain-Robin Single Barrel Riesling (USA; alcoholic) raw cider. It’s juicy and relatively light on late, leather and dried orange peel accents. Some 94 Germain-Robin, Ukiah, CA). This golden the alcohol content, though it still packs plenty of will say it’s reminiscent of excellent Armagnac, but brandy is redolent with dried apricot, waxy honey punch. Look for an amber hue, bright apricot and really it’s the gold standard of what American-made and a hint of banana funk. The nuanced palate vanilla scents and a distinctly sweet palate enliv- brandy can be. A blend of 1993 Pinot Noir, 1997 old leads with butterscotch richness, but then leads ened by citrusy tang and mouthwatering acidity. vine Sémillon and a younger Colombard married in to , apricot and vanilla, with hints of gingery It’s in the vein of French beverages like Pommeau or French oak. heat and chamomile on the warming finish. Made Pineau de Charentes, which also combine juice and abv: 42.7% Price: $75 from 100% Riesling, distilled in 1998 and aged 16 brandy, and is similarly easy-drinking. years on French oak. abv: 34% price: $34/375 ml Arkansas Black 21 Year Old Straight Apple- abv: 41.9% Price: $180 95 jack (USA; Timberlane Distillery, Novato, 3 Marlenas Apple Brandy (USA; Copper & CA). This limited-edition apple brandy offers big, Millard Fillmore Brandy (USA; Germain- 88 Kings, Louisville, KY). This unusual apple rounded stone fruit and fresh apple integrated with 93 Robin, Ukiah, CA). A budget-minded option brandy is aged five years, with two of those in used palate-coating vanilla, almond and honey, finishing from a maker of some of the finest American bran- tequila barrels. It has a bright golden hue and light long with zingy ginger, cinnamon and clove. Overall, dies around. Look for a honey hue and mild vanilla aromas of vanilla, oak and fresh apple. The zingy

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palate starts soft but accelerates into cayenne, oak Charles Street Apple Brandy Eau de Vie and vanilla on the midpalate, and edges into a long, 86 (USA; Baltimore Whiskey Company, Balti- spicy fade. Adding water coaxes out tropical fruit more, MD). Brace yourself: the producer says this notes, but the flavor doesn’t hold up with too much apple eau de vie (unaged brandy) is “distilled in the dilution, so go easy. style of traditional mezcal.” What does that mean, abv: 100% Price: $40/375 ml exactly? From a technical standpoint: smoked apple pomace is part of the distillation process. From a Christian Brothers Sacred Bond Bottled-in- tasting point of view: it’s clear in the glass, potent 88 Bond Brandy (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery, (nearly 100 proof) and it does drink a little like a Bardstown, KY). This California grape brandy is mezcal, with a musky floral scent and green apple aged four years in former bourbon barrels, then flavor punctuated by white pepper and cayenne bottled at 100 proof. Expect a dark amber hue and sizzle. Bourbon-like nose and palate suggesting vanilla, abv: 49.9% Price: $35 cocoa, oak and a hint of dried fig. Adding water tames the fire a bit and brings more vanilla forward. Harvest Apple (USA; Woods Mill Distillery, Recommended for mixing into sidecars and other 85 Faber, VA). This is 100% Virginia apple cocktails. brandy aged in casks. The amber abv: 50% Price: $26 hue and rich, nutty, sweet aroma almost suggests a pecan liqueur with a hit of booze on the nose. The Spirit of St. Supery (USA; St. Supery Estate palate doesn’t match that promise of sweetness and 88 Vineyards, Rutherford, CA). Distilled from a richness. This is oak-forward and bone dry, with a base of Moscato made from estate, this straw-hued whisper of nutty sweetness on the exit. brandy is light and reminiscent of honey and white abv: 41% Price: $30/375 ml flowers on the nose and palate, finishing rounded and floral with a faint ginger flicker. abv: 36.6% Price: $100

1889 Royal Brandy VS (USA; Heaven Hill, 87 Bardstown, KY). Amber in the glass, this grape brandy has honey and oak aromas, and a sur- prisingly sweet flavor that coats the palate with honey, vanilla and maple, finishing oaky on hints of orange peel and fiery cayenne and clove. Natural fla- vor and caramel color added. abv: 40% Price: $10

Copper & Kings Floodwall Apple Brandy 87 (USA; Copper & Kings, Louisville, KY). The dark copper hue and succulent toffee and vanilla aroma entice. The palate is quite fiery from the first sip, leading with spicy cinnamon and cayenne and fading to a baked apple finish. Adding water tames some of the alcohol heat and brings more oak for- ward. Aged a minimum of four years in ex-Kentucky Bourbon barrels and oloroso sherry casks. abv: 50% Price: $40

Malvados Wicked Vermont Apple Brandy 87 (USA; Mad River Distillers/Cold Spring Spir- its, Warren, VT). The producer says this brandy is a Vermont version of France’s Calvados brandy, but there is a muskiness that is more akin to the fermented funk of some Spanish ciders. Look for a honey hue, a funky scent almost like aged cheese, and a dry, tannic palate that favors oak over fruit, finishing long with hints of walnut, oak and hops. A splash of water coaxes out a clove note. Aged less than four years. abv: 50% Price: $40/375 ml

Velvet Night Brandy (USA; In Distill of the 87 Night Spirits, Inc, Fresno, CA). For full review see page 15. abv: 48.1% Price: $55

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able when Rebel IPA was first launched in 2014. All in all, seven hops were chosen for the new recipe: Cascade, Centennial, Chinook, HBC 566 (a new hop variety proprietary and exclusive to Sam Adams), HBC 682 (another new experimental hop variety), BEER Mosaic and Simcoe. The resulting brew is well bal- The current state of American IPAs anced and more tropical in nature than the initial offering, with a solid but not overpowering caramel- malt core and varying hop tones throughout, from ven though brewers continue to question many brewers have taken another look at the grapefruit rind to fresh pine, with bright pineapple what will be the next big thing in the world style. Sure, American beers—especially IPAs— and lemon fruit flavors. of craft beer, consumers will forever return are still quite hoppy, but we’re increasingly abv: 6.5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack to certain classic styles: lagers and stouts, searching for more refined, balanced options Esure, but definitely India pale ales (IPAs). now that we’ve gotten over the initial hop- Stone Ghost Hammer IPA (American IPA; Stone Brewing Co., CA). You gotta love a good For years, American IPAs have reigned shock and awe. 91 ghost story, and this beer pays tribute to one: It’s supreme. The style always sees the highest Another key factor shaping the American named after the mischievous poltergeist companion number of submissions in any IPA landscape is the release of of Stone’s overnight brewing team. It pours a stun- judging or competition, includ- new hop varieties. There are ning golden color, almost as transparent as an aber- ing the mother of them all, the New, exciting hop now close to 200 hop varieties ration, with a lively bouquet of fresh hops, grain, grass and underripe stone fruit. It almost comes off Brewers Association’s annual commercially available. A few profiles are ready to like a hopped lager of sorts, with its pristine appear- Great American Beer Festival. It be experienced in decades ago, brewers across the ance, crisp mouthfeel and clean grain tones. Notes seems we just can’t get enough brewers’ attempts globe only had access to about a of grapefruit zest, pressed hop flower and light resin of the stuff. quarter of that. unfold on the finish, lingering long. It’s well bal- Historically, the American- to showcase these What does that mean for anced, appropriately bitter and a joy to drink. abv: 6.7% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack IPA style was driven by a “bigger innovative varieties. you? New, exciting hop profiles means better” ethos. Hopheads are ready to be experienced in Coronado Brewing Co. Islander IPA (Ameri- clammored for more hop aroma brewers’ attempts to show- 90 can IPA; Coronado Brewing, CA). Brewed and flavor, feverishly pushing case these innovative varieties. with Centennial, Chinook and Columbus hops, this the limits of reasonable IBUs (international bit- Today, you can find an array of beers touting pours a slightly cloudy-gold color, with a medium off-white head that leaves nice lacing behind with tering units). the use of new or experimental hop varieties, or each sip. The hop aromas are front and center on While some might still subscribe to the the- even focusing on a single hop for a pure expres- the nose, with aggressive scents of fresh pine resin, ory that the more hops, the better, it seems that sion. —Lauren Buzzeo citrus peel and mango skin that carry through to the medium-weight palate, alongside a pleasant, malty sweetness that rounds the mouthfeel out. Ample carbonation keeps the finish fresh, with a kiss of bitterness on the back of the close. Captain Lawrence Powder Dreams India Pale tea. The palate is grounded by a clean, wheaty malt abv: 6.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack 93 Ale Double Dry-Hopped with Citra & Mosaic core, supporting the intense hop and citrus fruit fla- Lupulin Powder (American IPA; Captain Lawrence vors as well as the bitterness. Medium carbonation Coronado Brewing Co. Conquista India Pale Brewing Company, NY). Canned in tall boys, this keeps the palate fresh and vibrant, while citrus-rind 89 Ale (American IPA; Coronado Brewing, CA). version of the brewery’s Powder Dreams, the third flavors drive the finish. This selection is a collaboration between Coro- installment, is certainly bold and hoppy. A hazy abv: 8% Price: $NA/16 oz 4 pack nado and Florida’s Cigar City Brewing, showcas- orange-amber color, it leads with upfront aromas ing Polaris, the recently introduced German hop, of ripe tropical fruit, melon rind and dried grape- Lord Hobo Hobo Life Dry-Hopped Citra Ses- known for its high alpha acids and distinct pine- fruit, with a subtle herbaceous quality in the back- 91 sion IPA (American IPA; Lord Hobo Brewing apple and herbaceous notes. It doesn’t disappoint, ground. The mouthfeel is full and creamy, with Company, MA). This pours a hazy golden-yellow with upfront citrus and tropical fruit tones on the ample carbonation and pleasant bitterness to coun- color, with an off-white head that shows good stay- nose and mouth, given texture by a pleasant bit- ter the weight through the finish. Fruity flavors of ing power. The hop aromas immediately waft from terness and a lingering finish. Medium carbonation pineapple, nectarine and grapefruit set the stage, the glass—loads of grapefruit peel, fresh grass and keeps the smooth palate in check, with lasting with interesting hits of oversteeped white tea and minty pine needle that all carry through to the pal- impressions of juicy citrus, fresh mint and cut grass. fresh grass lending interest and astringent texture ate. It smells bigger than it is, as the sip is surpris- abv: 6.5% Price: $8/22 oz through the close. ingly light, balanced by just enough malty support abv: 7.5% Price: $NA/16 oz 4 pack and fine carbonation. It’s sessionable, for sure, but Firestone Limited Release Luponic Distortion definitely not lacking in flavor. 89 Revolution No. 006 (American IPA; Firestone Blue Point Hazy Bastard A Juicy IPA (American abv: 4.5% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack Walker Brewing Company, CA). The latest release in 91 IPA; Blue Point Brewing, NY). This brewery Firestone’s Luponic Distortion series, each offer- exclusive is a New England-style IPA that’s double Samuel Adams Rebel IPA (American IPA; The ing a different hop profile, features a blend of seven dry-hopped. Cloudy golden-yellow color in appear- 91 Boston Beer Co., MA). After more than four hops, though the star is the hops grown at Hop Head ance (it is unfiltered), it opens with assertive notes years, the brewers undertook what they dubbed Farms in Michigan. The nose is all citrus upfront, of grapefruit zest, orange peel and dried mango, “Project Lupulus” and completely reformulated this with some minty, herbal and white floral accents with supporting hits of fresh grass, soft pine and brew, taking advantage of hops that were not avail- that lend depth and interest. The palate offers more

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of the same, grounded by a clean malt profile and impression of biscuit malt in the background. The medium carbonation. It’s not quite medium bodied, palate comes off as surprisingly light, thanks to with a crisp, clear color and a mild bitterness that assertive carbonation and zesty, citrusy flavors that persists through the finish. carry through to the close. abv: 5.9% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack abv: 4.9% Price: $NA/12 oz 6 pack

Anchor Brewing Go West! IPA (American IPA; 88 Anchor Brewing Co., CA). This year-round selection is well balanced and accessible, with surprisingly subtle hoppy notes of citrus peel and freshly dried grass that dance atop a core of light toast and caramel malt. The medium-bodied palate is crisp and mildly bitter, with ample carbonation to balance the slightly sweet malt characteristics and a pleasant dryness to the finish. abv: 6.7% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

Anchor Brewing Liberty IPA (American IPA; 88 Anchor Brewing Co., CA). This is the brew- ery’s reimagining of their classic Liberty Ale, kicked up a notch (or three) thanks to some solid hopping. It pours a beautiful russet-orange color, with a seri- ous head that leaves nice lacing behind. The nose leads with a just resinous hop aroma, coupled with notes of lightly caramelized malt, orange oil and pine. It’s smooth and medium-bodied in feel, with a weighty richness from the solid malt core and dank hop characteristics, though it’s not over the top. Medium carbonation and a dry finish keep the over- all balance and harmony in check. abv: 6.3% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

Coronado Brewing Co. CoastWise Session IPA 88 (American IPA; Coronado Brewing, CA). This brew is a collaboration between Coronado Brew- ing Company and the Surfrider Foundation, with a portion of all proceeds benefiting the foundation to protect and preserve the coastline environment. Brewed with a blend of Mosaic and Sorachi Ace hops, it’s a bright, fruit and easy-drinking selection, with assertive but juicy hop characteristics that are balanced against a clean malt profile on the palate. Mouthwatering grapefruit and orange flavors linger on the lightly bitter finish. abv: 5% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack

Lord Hobo Steal This Can India Pale Ale 88 (American IPA; Lord Hobo Brewing Company, MA). This pours a hazy yellow-orange color, with a frothy white head that leaves good lacing behind. It drinks like a traditional American IPA, with for- ward, slightly resinous hop notes of grapefruit pith, orange oil and pine. The mouthfeel is slick and weighty, with a solid malt spine that supports the prominent dank, bitter hop-oil flavor. Secondary notes of ripe stone fruit and melon add richness to the palate. abv: 6.5% Price: $12/16 oz 4 pack

Reuben’s Brews Daily Pale India Pale Ale 87 (American IPA; Reuben’s Brews, WA). This canned brew is an easy-drinking, sessionable selec- tion that’s good for outdoor gatherings or activi- ties. Bold hop aromas of fresh pine, citrus peel and a touch of tropical fruit lead the nose, with a solid

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2017