The Food Police

KEYNOTE ADDRESS The Food Police Jayson L. Lusk Living in a cultural melting pot, Americans have long tak- While the federal government has long played a hand en their culinary cues from other societies. A night on the in influencing consumers’ food choices, its reach is ex- town typically means a visit to the tastes of Italy, France, tending in new and unprecedented directions. For de- or Thailand. If there is any food distinctly American, it is cades, food and agricultural policy was primarily aimed fast food; a food geared toward satisfying the palette and at issues related to the volume of food production – to wallet of the everyman. Against a backdrop of increasing ensure affordable food and profitable farmers. In recent concerns about food safety, health, and the environment years has emerged an agenda to regulate what we eat and has emerged a new phenomenon in American cuisine – how farmers operate to ensure healthy consumers, farm the food elite. animals, and ecosystems. A chorus of writers and food advocates has emerged The movement to regulate choice – of which foods con- to remind us of the joys of fine food, good health, and sumers buy and what farmers’ raise and plant – is becom- connecting with our land and animals. From Michael Pol- ing pervasive. Michelle Obama’s White House garden lan, Marion Nestle, Alice Waters, Mark Bittman, Martha was a symbolic nod granted to a growing reality of a food Stewart, and many other bestselling authors, chefs, and movement that seeks more control over the Nation’s din- food critics, we are now taught that food that is more lo- ner plates. For example, Severson (2010) quotes Alice cal, organic, slow, natural, and unprocessed is better tast- Waters who wants, “a total dispensation from the presi- ing, healthier, more sustainable, and more equitable. The dent of the United States who will say, ‘We need a cur- views of the food elite, the cultural movers and shakers riculum in the public school system that teaches our kids, when it comes to food, now entrenched in institutions from the time they are very little, about food and were it such as Food Network television, supermarkets such as comes from. And we want to buy food from local people Whole Foods, and the New York Times Style section, are in every community to rebuild the agriculture.’” She says slowing becoming etched into the conscious of the Amer- that we, “must get Obama to understand the pleasures of ican food consumer. the table.” Michael Pollan (2008) wants to, “require that But, if your food choices were once largely personal a certain percentage of that school lunch fund in every preferences, they are now increasingly seen as political school district has to be spent within 100 miles.” actions. According to Severson (2010, p. 29), famed food The calls for regulation extend far beyond re-organizing activist and restaurant owner Alice Waters believes that, classrooms and school lunches. Barry Popkin, professor “that the most political act we can commit is to eat deli- of nutrition at University of North Carolina, for example, cious food” produced in a way consonant with her vision wants to, (2008), “change our eating pattern . through of the world. Bestselling author Michael Pollan (2006) taxation.” He says that, “Taxing the added sugar in bev- tells us that shopping at Whole Foods is “a much headier erages is a favorite strategy of mine.” But, taxing “bad” experience, one with complex aesthetic, emotional, and ingredients simply isn’t enough to achieve the outcomes even political dimensions.” As food writer James McWil- desired by some food advocates. The U.S. Food and Drug liams (2009) puts it, “buying local is a political act with Administration required mandatory labeling of transfats ideological implications.” on food labels in 2003, and cities such as New York and Philadelphia subsequently banned the use of transfats in restaurants. And now, transfats information isn’t enough either, as witnessed by recent federal efforts to remove Jayson L. Lusk, Ph.D., the ingredient from the list of items generally recognized Regents Professor and Willard Sparks Endowed Chair as safe (GRAS). Buried deep inside the recently passed Department of Agricultural Economics Health Care bill is a requirement that restaurant chains Oklahoma State University now provide nutritional information on menus. And if ca- 411 Ag Hall, Dept. Ag Economics Stillwater, OK 74074 loric information isn’t enough, Susan Dentzer, former PBS [email protected] news correspondent and current editor-in-chief of Health American Meat Science Association 1 Affairs, wants to change our eating habits by creating a The average grocery shopper and even the fashionable “broadbased set of interventions comparable in scope to “foodie” is largely unaware of the undercurrent driving the four-decade assault on smoking.” the modern food movements, but the food elites recog- nize what is at stake. As one activist farmer put it, “The Food elites not only want to change what is on the fork free market has never worked in agriculture and it never but what is on the farm. Regulations dictating which in- will.”1 Even a casual reading of the bestselling books on puts farmers’ can and cannot use are on the rise. At least food and agriculture reveal an explicit distain for capital- six states now tell farmers how large the sizes of their ism. Michael Pollan (2008) writes of, “another example cages must be if they wish to produce eggs, pork, or veal. of the cultural contradictions of capitalism – the tendency The Food Quality Protection Act of 1996 stripped farmers over time for the economic impulse to erode the moral of the ability to use certain pesticides. Farmers in many underpinnings of society.”2 Stan Cox (2008), a scientist countries, and now Jackson country Oreon, are prevented at the Land Institute, opines about the state of modern from using genetically engineered seeds. agriculture when asserting, “If we find no alternative to U.S. livestock producers are facing increasing politi- capitalism, the Earth cannot be saved.” Bestselling au- cal pressure to reduce the use of certain antibiotics and thor and nutritionists, Marion Nestle (2007), is “increas- growth hormones. Indeed, meat and livestock producers ingly convinced that many of the nutritional problems of are at the heart of a whole set of controversies and pro- Americans—not the least of them obesity—can be traced posed regulations. McWilliams (2012) summarized well to the food industry’s imperative to encourage people to the prevailing cultural view, “The industrial production of eat more in order to generate sales in increase income in a animal products is nasty business. From mad cow, E. coli highly competitive marketplace.” In fact, the modern slow and salmonella to soil erosion, manure runoff and pink food movement grew from “intellectuals on the political slime, factory farming is the epitome of a broken food left who were . supporters of communist ideology” system.” Writing in TIME magazine, Walsh (2008) con- (Lotti, 2010). The food elites have found the problem un- cluded that, “that giving up that average 176 lb. of meat a derlying our modern food dilemmas, and it is free choice year is one of the greenest lifestyle changes you can make and capitalism. as an individual.” Such sentiments are behind efforts to In The Food Police, Lusk (2013) critiques the emergence further regulate and tax meat and livestock production for of this food progressivism—the movement to adopt cen- environmental and health reasons. tralized, top-down decision making to regulate food pro- Taken in isolation, any of one the regulations seem rea- duction and consumption to achieve improved human sonable and well-intentioned, and each involves a seem- health, environmental sustainability, and social justice. ingly innocuous tussle over the relative costs and benefits Often missing from the perspective of the food police is of the policy in question. However, if one takes a step detailed, firsthand knowledge of modern agricultural and back and looks at the big picture, it is increasingly clear food production. The movement toward food progressiv- that food policies are increasingly motivated by narrow ism is predicated on a romanticized notion of food and ideological agendas rather than projected economic con- agriculture coupled with a poor understanding of eco- sequences nomics—of how people’s free choices in markets provide To listen to the debates over whether more food should information, serve to efficiently allocate resources, and be produced locally or whether farmers should use genet- disperse power, and how hard it is for top-down regula- ically modified seed, it is apparent that something more is tion to do better. at stake than costs and benefits. As John Donvan (2010) The growing “food movement” has prompted a re- of ABC News put it when moderating a debate about the newed interest in food and agriculture. This is a posi- merits of organic food held at New York University, “What tive development and has created many entrepreneurial strikes me about this debate is that the tone here is as bit- opportunities. It is encouraging when consumers use the terly partisan as anything that’s happening in Washington. power of their wallets (and in some cases their back yards) And I’m curious about why that is. And it’s on both sides. to get the kinds of foods they desire. However, some- It’s also from all of us here in the hall. There is a nasty feel- where along the way, positive marketing focusing on qual- ing to this issue.” ity turned into fear marketing, denigrating conventional Much of the “nastiness” or controversy in modern food agriculture often using shaky science and poor econom- production results from the emerging clash of worldviews ics.

Load more